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Lapstrake or Clinker Planking

Clinker or Lapstrake is a method of attaching planks to a boat where the plank edges overlap each other.

Overlapping planks are then fastened to each other and then to the frames.

This age old method of planking, sometimes referred to as clinker planking, has been in use for hundreds of years.

Much of the longitudinal strength of the hull is provided by the double thickness of the planking where it overlaps.

It is this partial overlapping of successive planks along the length of the boat which gives it its characteristic shape.

These boats are lightweight, very strong, stable and maneuverable.

The lower cost of materials makes it an ideal building method that the average handyman could afford.

Plywood, because of its multidirectional strength makes it an excellent material for this construction method.

The usual method of fastening the planks on small boats is with clinch (clout) nails, where the nail is driven through and "clinched" or bent over.

Copper rivets and roves are also a common fastening method though not quite as easy to fasten as clinching.

On a light construction the extra hammering needed to form the rivet over the rove is best avoided.

It is possible to use wood screws, however these should not be used when fastening to steam bent frames.

One of the problems inherent to the maintenance of lapstrake is caused by ridges and gaps which collect moisture and dirt.

With stitch and glue lapstrake most of these gaps will be filled with thickened epoxy. This makes for not only a stronger boat but a relatively maintenance free one as well.

The lightness of construction combined with strength makes for superb boats for cruising and general knocking about.

This makes it a good style for small boats and canoes, not just for their maneuverability but also because they are easy to handle ashore.

Lapstrake / Clinker Books

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Planking: An Introduction to Methods & Techniques

The most important skills in boatbuilding. It distinguishes the carpenter from the boatbuilder. It’s one thing to glue two boards together for a table top or to nail siding on a house; it’s quite another to keep water out of a seam. This is not to say that boatbuilding involves superior skill; it’s just that a different set of skills is needed, along with the intention of keeping water out.

I work as a boatbuilding instructor at the Carpenter’s Boat Shop in Pemaquid, Maine, and have the pleasure of teaching apprentices some of the vernacular and many of the techniques that go into wooden boat building. Among them, none is more gratifying than the planking process.

In this article, we’ll explore commonly used planking types and examine the strengths and drawbacks of each one. You’ll also learn the rudiments involved in “getting out” (creating and installing) a boat’s planking. It is my hope that this article will help you grow in knowledge and confidence so that you too can try your hand at planking.

Integral to both carvel and lapstrake planking styles, lining off is dividing the hull surface into appropriately sized planks and locations, and then making sure that they look even and fair. By fair, I mean gradual curves that are “eyesweet”: no sharp bends, knuckles, or hitches. Looks matter, and lining off helps to ensure fair plank lines that are proportional to one another and blend well with the overall hull shape. More important, it gives the crew information on how wide to make the planks and what shape they will be.

Many sets of plans for small and simple boats already include lining-off marks, so these need only to be carried from plan patterns to molds and then checked for fairness with a batten. However, if you hope to take on a more advanced project down the road, lining off planking is a skill that you’ll need to add to your repertoire. You can read more on this in WoodenBoat No. 101.

Carvel planking is a common method found on a great variety of traditional wooden boats, from large schooners to classic racing yachts and tiny dinghies. A carvel hull is less fussy to line off than lapstrake because if plank lines aren’t perfect, paint will cover the discrepancies. While it does present challenges to those with limited experience, we’ve found that our apprentices, most of whom have only a few months of boatbuilding experience under their belts, do a fine job of building carvel-planked Catspaw dinghies. Don’t allow a lack of experience to hold you back. In his book The Boatbuilder’s Apprentice, boatbuilder Greg Rössel draws upon the example of a wooden barrel. Barrel staves, analogous to our planks, are laid tightly alongside one another, and taper at the ends. A wooden boat hull is similar, but with a few extra curves thrown in.

Once the hull setup is lined off (or marks from the plan patterns are transferred and faired), planking can begin. Each plank is individually shaped, or “spiled,” then meticulously fitted for tightness on both edges. We will discuss the process of spiling in greater detail later on. When the planks are tight along their edges, a slight bevel is planed along one outer edge to accept cotton fibers that, when driven to a proper depth, will provide watertight integrity. The hull is then faired (planed and sanded eye-sweet), caulked, and painted.

Carvel planking has a great many benefits that justify its popularity. It is effective at keeping water out, is adaptable to a variety of hull shapes, and it is easily repairable when compared to many other planking types. Because carvel planks can be butted end-to-end, shorter lengths can be used.

Lapstrake, or clinker, planking is what many of us have in mind when we think of a small, classic wooden boat. Each plank is beveled where it overlaps the adjacent plank, somewhat like clapboards on a house, adding longitudinal strength and assisting the ribs in holding the hull shape and reducing flex. What’s more, those planks are then fastened to one another as well as to the frames. This interconnectedness allows fewer frames and thinner planking than in a carvel planked boat of comparable size.

Lapstrake planking is especially appropriate for smaller boats where reduced weight is important. This planking method has some peculiarities to contend with that you won’t find in other planking types, one being the “gains” that have to be fashioned along the ends of each plank as it approaches the bow and sometimes the stern, overlapping the plank below. Without these gains, you’d have a sawtooth appearance where the planks join the stem. We’ll discuss how to cut gains later on.

Once clear of the gains, which run 6″ or so aft of the stem, lapstrake plank edges protrude, so no amount of paint will cover a poor job of lining off. Although the plans often have the lining-off already marked on the station mold patterns, you’ll still need to look at the boat and learn to trust your eye in assuring that the plank lines are fair and in good proportion. Lapstrake repair is also a bit more involved than that of its carvel counterpart.

Honestly, though, all planks are a little tricky to repair. Lapstrake-planked boats are a favorite of first-time builders, and for good reason, I think. First, the building jig can be very simple—some lapstrake boats are even built over a single mold. Second, fitting the planks needn’t be as precise as it is for carvel. In fact, in some cases, a plank lap width can be off by almost a quarter of an inch and still be acceptable. Third, there is no need to fair the hull after planking.

Once the planks are fitted, give them a thorough sanding before fastening them in place, and that’s the last time you’ll have to touch them until it’s time for paint. Finally, when lapstrake boats dry out, their seams don’t stand wide open as they do with carvel. This means they require significantly less time to “make up” (swell up in water), if any. This is good news for us trailer-sailors.

Stitch-And-Glue

Stitch-and-glue has gained in popularity lately, as it is such a straightforward process. Kits are widely available, but if you aren’t interested in a kit it is easy enough to buy the necessary plywood, epoxy, and copper wire, and proceed on your own. Predominantly, stitch-and-glue is used to build small boats like kayaks and lightweight rowboats. It consists of cut-to-shape side and bottom panels that are drilled and then wired at intervals in a sort of stitched style. Epoxy is then used to fillet the joints. The wires can be taken out after the glue is cured. Stitch-and-glue is fast and almost as easy as putting a sandwich together. It’s great for a weekend project when you want to get out on the water fast.

Strip Planking

Strip-planking has become a sweetheart of the do-it-yourself boatbuilding crowd, its chief advantage being that all of the “planks” can be the same dimension (usually about 1″ 1″). Planks are nailed to one another edge-to-edge and the strips are alternately fastened to ribs as building progresses. This makes for a strong hull, but can be difficult to repair.

Strip Building

Strip-building, a variant of strip-planking, is also an excellent choice for the first-time builder, often used to build kayaks, canoes, and other small boats. One by one, strips are glued next to one another on the building jig and then temporarily stapled to the molds. Often, these strips have bead and cove edges for a better fit and a stronger seam. As strip after strip is laid down, the hull grows. Then, the whole thing gets a coat of fiberglass and epoxy, inside and out. While this procedure renders a beautiful, strong, and long lasting boat, some of the disadvantages are that the ’glassing is messy work, and if a repair is needed later on, it can become a major undertaking as there is no single “plank” to replace.

Batten Seam

Cold-Molding

Cold-molding is a process of creating a hull by layering. Epoxied (glued) veneers are generally laid up over a strip-planked, jig supported first layer to create a boat hull. This sandwiching of layers is somewhat related to making plywood but, of course, renders a far more complex shape. It is common to use straight-grained Douglas-fir, red cedar, or mahogany for the veneers—or a combination of these woods, chosen for their tensile strength and resistance to rot. Veneers are generally about 1⁄8″ thick and from 4″ to 10″ wide. For efficiency and best contact between layers, this process requires vacuum-bagging, where a piece of plastic becomes a giant clamp that conforms to the hull’s contours. A large piece of plastic is laid over the wet veneers that have been fitted and stapled into place.

Next, the plastic is sealed along the perimeter of the area to be squeezed. Finally, a vacuum pump removes the air underneath the plastic and atmospheric pressure forces it down tight on the veneers. The pump is left running (there’s always a little leakage) until the epoxy kicks (sets up). While experienced people can “bag” several layers at once, generally it’s done one layer at a time, on each side of the hull, alternating sides, with each layer running diagonally to the previous one.

The process, though lengthy, can employ workers with less skill than some other types of wooden boat construction. To be sure, this is a messy and complex way to create a hull—but the results are worth it. Cold-molded hulls are very strong and easy to maintain.

Getting Out a Plank

Now that we have touched upon the most common types of planking, it’s time to address how to make the planks themselves. Some methods, like carvel and lapstrake, require a builder to learn how to spile a plank. Spiling is translating those three-dimensional curves and tucks of the hull to something that we can cut out of flat plank stock. You will soon discover that all of those sweet lines marked on a nicely lined-off building jig no longer look the same when picked off and placed on the stock on your bench.

When we see planks on the hull, what we perceive as lines running parallel with the sheer are actually shallow Ws, Ss, and other shapes that look like crescent moons or bananas when laid out in two dimensions (see illustrations above). This isn’t true of all hulls, though; depending on the size and type of the boat, you may find that a few of the planks are straight. Spiling entails nailing a batten onto the hull where you want the plank to go and recording on it the information about its shape. For spiling battens, I usually staple a few strips of lauan plywood together, attached with a scab or butt strap. Once the batten is placed, the marking can begin.

Some use a compass, some a joggle stick, while others prefer a length of a carpenter’s folding rule. Whatever means you choose, it is important to be consistent and meticulous. Any slop or movement will result in an inaccurate spiling. To use a compass as shown in our example on the facing page, start with a setting that has the appropriate reach for the entire length of the plank. Once that is established, set the compass and make a “sacred” circle somewhere—on the boat, the bench, or another board—but not on the batten, as this may be confused with spiling marks in that location. If you ruin your setting, you can quickly restore it using the sacred circle.

With one leg of the compass on the reference point, use the other, the pencil end, to draw an arc (a quarter circle or so) on the spiling batten. Continue to make these marks until you have picked up points along the top and bottom edges of the plank space. Next, remove the spiling batten and secure it to your planking stock which is lying flat on the bench. Then, with the compass setting still intact (check it on your sacred circle), transfer the points you picked up from the boat to the planking stock.

Picking Up Points

Note the “smiles” and “frowns” that the arcs make on the batten. The smiles indicate the endpoint, frame areas, and a few extra defining points along the boat’s bottom. The frowns indicate the only three available spots to pick up points from the lined off setup in this area (dotted lines indicate where battens have defined plank lines in the lining off process). The three points are the endmost point on the transom, the aftmost point on the aftmost frame, and the aftmost point on the aftmost mid-frame. Once forward, pick up the forward-most point on each frame and inner stem. These points define the shape of the plank.

Transferring Points to the Planking Stock

Used in lapstrake planking, gains are the areas at the bow, and often the stern, where the plank thickness at the overlap is reduced so that each plank gradually fairs into its adjacent partner by the time it reaches the stem (and the transom, if a smooth outline is desired). This is accomplished by planing a wedge- shaped rabbet at the end(s) of the plank. It sounds more complicated than it is; once you’ve done one, you can do a thousand. I hope this introduction to planking types and techniques will help you to make a more informed choice as you consider building your next boat.

We have only begun to scratch the surface here. The best way to learn more is to get out there and try it. Once you wrap your mind around the planking process, you’ll never look at woodworking the same way. For me, understanding the planking process opened up the world of boatbuilding. I hope it does the same for you.

Darin Carlucci and his wife, Serafina, live in Pemaquid, Maine.

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Selway Fisher Designs as examples but mainly the Kane Suffolk Beach Punt.

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Lapstrake/Clinker

Particularly since good clear marine wood (such as planks of mahogany) have become hard to obtain and that most other woods tend to split easily as they dry, there's been a move to replace the solid planks used for clinker-build with strips of plywood that effectively solve both the availability and splitting issues.

It's that method that I now refer to under 'Lapstrake'. Many small boats of the rowing type (like Wherry's and rowable Adirondacks etc) can now be built like this and even larger monohulls of the Folkboat type also.

One can also combine this method with the use of wider sheets for the flat-of-side and lower bottom, as was done very attractively in the design of the UK 17' 6" sailing dinghy 'Osprey'.

I personally liked the way the combination gives clean lines to a boat and stiffens the bilge area without internal framing being required, that I used it for a small series of 13‑footers called the Canadian Beaver, about 20 years back.

And without any need for added hull roll-resistance on a multihull, that benefit would also not be valid in such a case. One interesting development of the original clinker build, was the use of a reversed clinker—where the hull was built starting at the gunwale and the added strakes were overlapped as one built towards the keel. The few designers who used this approach way-back, claimed that the overlapping 'lands' caused less resistance—and in fact it's very likely that planing boats built to this reverse-clinker method actually had less resistance than those with pure round-bilge, as the water could separate away from the bottom surface very cleanly and lower the surface contact, rather in the same fashion as does a racing hull with multiple steps. So I submit that this reverse-clinker concept may still have some future on a multihull after all.

Here are a few additional links also: Boat Building Books

You can also click here to see this process explained in The Philosophy of Shipbuilding .

Although a 24' monohull, here is an example of a lapstrake hull for a fine prize-winning traditional design 'Stir Ven' by Francois Vivier of France. Strakes are laid out and pre-cut on a numerically controlled (NC) machine.

Advantages are enjoyment of construction in small steps; economy of wood; a stiff, rugged hull without need of much internal stiffening; attractive appearance; round bilge design. Laps make boat more resistant to rolling and add a cushioned ride. Also, well made epoxy-glued lapstrake boats rarely leak.

Disadvantages for a multihull are: increased resistance due to plank edges; concentration of narrow strips mostly under the waterline in order to achieve desired shape; slightly heavier overall weight than several other options.

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Building a Boat With Glued Lapstrake Construction

May 17, 2021 March 21, 2019 | How to

By Al Meyer

The beginning

I launched my previous boat, Wee Lass , a Penobscot 14 designed by Arch Davis, in 2004 and had lots of fun with it. In 2008, Hurricane Ike damaged the boat, but I repaired it and got it back in the water.

The boat developed a slow leak where the centerboard case joins the hull. Over time, it became more and more of a nuisance. When I noticed discoloration on some of the hull planks, I decided to start building a replacement.

I settled on the Tammie Norrie design by Scottish boat designer Iain Oughtred. Similar to the Penobscot 14 in style and dimensions, it has a few details such as open gunwales and park bench-type seating that make it a slightly prettier boat.

Tammie Norrie uses glued lapstrake construction. The easiest way to understand lapstrake construction is to think of the shingles on a roof: Each shingle overlaps the previous one a little bit. In the 9th century, Viking ships were built using the lapstrake method.

Traditional lapstrake construction requires using many frames to support the hull planking. When properly built, these boats are beautiful; however, many amateur boat builders steered away from traditional lapstrake construction.

In the 1980s, small craft designers started working with glued lapstrake construction. By making the planks out of marine-grade plywood instead of lumber and gluing them together with epoxy, builders could construct a lapstrake hull while eliminating much of the interior structure.

Tammie Norrie has a backbone consisting of a stem, keel, and transom, but no frames. This type of construction has two key advantages: It’s within reach of amateur boat builders (provided they employ the appropriate amount of patience), and it allows the amateur to construct boats that resemble classics from the late 1800s, such as Whitehalls, Rangeleys and Melonseeds.

Construction

Although you can buy Tammie Norrie kits, I chose to work from plans, which included full-size paper templates for the stem, transom and molds. Paper templates have received a bad reputation over the years; sometimes the printing machine distorts the plans, and paper is subject to changes in temperature and humidity. Fortunately, the plans also included a table of offsets, so the first thing I did was build a lofting table 4 feet wide and 16 feet long and lofted the boat full size. This enabled me to lay out the patterns for the parts I needed, which were then traced onto sheets of Mylar. Next, I disassembled the lofting table and used it to make the molds.

You build the boat upside-down, so I constructed a plywood box as a work platform. The molds were mounted on the box at the intervals specified in the plans, and the boat built over the molds.

With the molds and the backbone set in place, I ripped a bunch of long strips to line off the planks. Lining off serves two purposes: It verifies the molds are correct (the strips will show a bump or a wiggle if they’re out of shape), and it establishes or verifies the position of the planks. Tick marks on the paper templates indicate where the planks should go, so in this case, I transferred the tick marks to the molds, laid the strip along the marks, and adjusted as necessary to ensure a nice smooth curve at each plank.

Once satisfied with the lining off, I hung the strakes. Tammie Norrie has eight strakes per side. Because plywood only comes in 8-foot lengths and the boat is 13 feet 6 inches long, each strake has a forward and aft plank joined by a scarf. Each plank is beveled with a 1:8 slope.

The strakes don’t have a constant width. They tend to be a little wider amidships and narrower at the ends. They’re also not straight but have something of a C-shape, and all are shaped differently.

Ideally, the port side of strake 3 should be the mirror image of starboard strake 3, but strake 3 is shaped differently than strake 4. The process of determining the shape of the strakes is called “spiling.” The spiling methods I found in traditional boat building books all seemed to require a little bit of black magic and voodoo. I found a simpler method online.

I laid the long strips I used for lining off at the top and bottom edge of the strake and connected them using small scraps, in effect building a truss, or pattern, for each strake. I could then lay the pattern on the planking stock and trace an accurate plank.

I continued the process, first hanging a strake on one side, hanging its mirror image on the opposite side, and then hanging the next set of strakes. After hanging all the strakes, I installed the outer stem and keel. Next, I sealed the hull with two coats of thin epoxy before priming and painting. Then it was turnover day!

With the boat turned over, you need to strengthen the hull. This includes adding the floor timbers, breasthook, quarter knees and inwales. In boat building, there are only two kinds of lumber: “not cheap” and “very expensive.” Not cheap lumber is what you buy at the local big-box store. It’s good for making patterns and templates. Very expensive wood comes from specialty lumber dealers.

First, I made a temporary piece out of not cheap wood to ensure I had the dimensions and angles correct; after I was satisfied with the temporary piece, I cut out the final part out of very expensive wood.

Once the hull was strengthened, I started fitting out the interior. Fitting out includes adding the floorboards, centerboard case, thwarts, thwart knees, stern sheet, bow seat, and side benches. I carried the same process of making temporary pieces first through the fitting out stage.

Details, details

As a traditionally styled boat, Tammie Norrie should have traditional fittings where possible. Wee Lass had rope-stropped wooden blocks, and they worked well, so Tammie Norrie got its own set. I made the shells from cherry to match the rest of the boat’s trim, and I made the strops from Hempex, a synthetic faux-hemp.

Tammie Norrie also got a nice set of rope fenders. Wee Lass ’s rope fenders were really too small to be useful, but the fenders on Tammie Norrie are a different style and larger.

When I finally got ready to launch my new boat, I had to wait for a decent weekend. I had started lofting on Feb. 15, 2015, and launched the Sandra Catherine on Oct. 27, 2018. With glass-smooth water and not a puff of wind, the first trip was under oars. Later in the afternoon, a small breeze picked up, so we rigged the boat for sail and ghosted along for a little while.

Al Meyer belongs to Houston Sail & Power Squadron/21. He serves as a Vessel Check Examiner and instructor for America’s Boating Course and Seamanship. He prefers small, traditionally styled sailboats. This is the fourth boat he’s built. A detailed construction blog of building Sandra Catherine can be found at alsboatsdotcom.wordpress.com . This article first appeared in the squadron newsletter, Bay Neigh.

The Ensign magazine is an official channel of United States Power Squadrons, America’s Boating Club, a volunteer organization whose members teach boating skills and best practices to help improve the safety of our nation’s waterways. Learn more .

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Hull Construction by Clinker Ship Building Method - Lapstrake Boatbuilding

Categories : Naval architecture & ship design for marine engineers
Tags : Marine engineering

Introduction

Clinker construction is an ancient method used for constructing boat hulls by overlapping the wooden planks along their edges. It is said that vikings, explorers and pirates from Europe in the 300 C.E. introduced this method of hull construction. Clinker built boats were also used by Chinese people during the Song dynasty. Clinker construction is also known as lapstrake construction in some parts of the world.

Lapstrake Construction

Lapstrake construction involves slight overlapping of wooden planks in such a way that the bottom of each plank fixes at the top of the plank beneath it. It the earliest clinker built boats, the wooden planks were lashed to the framework beneath them; however, later on the planks were fixed using nails or pegs. It is to note that clinker method is not an easy method constructing hulls but requires utmost precision and hard work. This is because the planks are to be fixed in such a way that the hull receives a tapering curve, an important aspect for the overall performance of the boat.

The earliest clinker boats were built by creating an outer mold, which would include a transom and an inner keel for support. The earliest lapstrake construction didn’t have any predetermined number or width of the planks. The planks were then placed and nailed together to the mold until the correct look was achieved. The joint where two plates overlap each other was known as the land. The spaces left between the joints were filled by allowing the wood to swell after the hull absorbed water. Once the hull was made, it was turned upside down and timber plates of narrow wooden strips were fitted using several copper nails.

With the passage of time, stronger wood was used in the construction process . In modern construction, generally strong marine plywood is used instead of the traditional mahogany wood planks. Moreover, instead of copper nails, strong epoxy glue was used to stick the planks together. The modern clinker construction is a more planned one. Planks of equal sizes are cut from the plywood and the exact number of plywood planks to be used along with their dimensions is pre-decided. Modern adhesives are used for fixing the planks together, which provides strong bonding without any leakages and prevents the traditional metal fastening that gets loosened and weak with time.

Carnel Boats

Lapstrake construction is known for producing the strongest hulls, which are much lighter in weight, long lasting and need very less maintenance. However, the only drawback is that clinker ships move less swiftly through water than any other boat of the same size.

Once more type of boat that follows the same method of construction is Carvel boat. Carvel boats are older than the clinker boats. Carvel is usually smaller than Clinker and instead of overlapped planks has individual planks that are joined end to end with each other. This construction method gives carvel a smooth surface but doesn’t make it strong or lighter in weight. Clinker in comparison to carvel is lighter in weight and has a stronger hull. Moreover, clinkers have more cargo carrying capacity than carvel. Clinker construction is still used extensively in many parts of the world and is considered one of the most important discoveries in the history of ship building .

Image credits

Wooden Boat Builder Website

selway-fisher.com/clinker_ply.htm

How to Build Glued Lapstrake Wooden Boats

There is something about wooden boats that just captures the imagination. Maybe it’s the way they seem so timeless or the sense of adventure they represent. Undoubtedly, wooden boats are a popular choice for those looking to get out on the water.

And while building a wooden boat from scratch can be daunting, it’s definitely doable with some patience and skill. In this blog post, we’ll walk you through the steps necessary to build your own glued lapstrake wooden boat. So if you’re up for the challenge, read on to learn more about how to build glued lapstrake wooden boats.

Summary: In this tutorial, we will show you how to build glued lapstrake wooden boats. Lapstrake is a type of boat construction where the bottom and sides of the boat are made from separate pieces of wood that are then attached together with thin strips of wood called lapstrakes. This unique construction allows for a great deal of flexibility in how the boat is assembled, making it perfect for a variety of uses.

What Is a Glued Lapstrake Wooden Boat?

A glued lapstrake wooden boat is a type of boat that is built by overlapping planks of wood, known as strakes. The strakes are then fastened together using either nails or screws. This method of construction results in a strong and durable hull. Glued lapstrake boats are typically used for recreational purposes, such as fishing or sailing.

However, they can also be used for work tasks like transporting goods or passengers. Due to their sturdy construction, glued lapstrake boats are often used in rough waters. If you’re looking for a boat that can withstand the elements, a glued lapstrake wooden boat is a great choice.

Why Should You Build Glued Lapstrake Wooden Boats?

There is nothing quite like piloting a wooden boat for anyone who loves being on the water. These boats have a classic beauty that is unmatched by modern vessels, and they are also renowned for their durability and seaworthiness. Building a glued lapstrake wooden boat is a challenging but rewarding project, and the finished product will provide years of enjoyment. Lapstrake construction is considered particularly strong and stable and an excellent choice for larger boats.

The glued lapstrake method uses planks that are overlapping, or “clinched,” at the seams, providing additional strength and rigidity. This type of construction can be more complicated than other methods, but it is well worth the effort for anyone who wants to build a high-quality wooden boat.

8 Steps to Follow on How to Build Glued Lapstrake Wooden Boats

Step 1: pick out the right plans.

The first step is to make sure you have the right plans. Next, you need a set of blueprints that are specific to lapstrake boats. These will include all the dimensions and angles you’ll need to create your boat. Finally, make sure you find a set of plans you’re comfortable working with before starting construction.

Step 2: Cut Out the Pieces

Once you have your plans, use them to cut out all the pieces you’ll need to assemble your boat. Be precise with your cuts and take your time to make sure everything is accurate. The last thing you want is for your boat to fall apart because of a bad cut.

Step 3: Assemble the Frame

The next step is to start assembling the frame of your boat. This is where things can start to get tricky, so it’s important to take your time and make sure everything is lined up correctly. Once the frame is together, you can move on to the next step.

Step 4: Attach the Planking

The next step is to attach the planking to the frame of your boat. This is traditionally done with nails or screws, but you can also use glue if you prefer. Make sure the planking is nice and tight against the frame, so there are no gaps.

Step 5: Caulk the Seams

Once the planking is in place, you need to caulk all the seams to ensure your boat is watertight. This is a critical step, so make sure you do it carefully. You don’t want any leaks in your boat.

Step 6: Attach the Decking

The next step is to attach the decking to the boat. This can be done with screws, nails, or glue. Make sure the decking is nice and tight, so there are no gaps.

Step 7: Finish the Interior

The next step is to finish the interior of your boat. This can include adding seats, storage, or anything else you want in your boat. Once you have everything you want, you can launch your boat.

Step 8: Launch Your Boat

The final step is to launch your boat and enjoy it! You’ve worked hard to build your own boat so make sure you take it out and enjoy it. Building a glued lapstrake wooden boat can be a lot of work, but it’s also a lot of fun. Follow these steps, and you’ll be able to build your own boat in no time.

That’s it! You’ve now learned how to build glued lapstrake wooden boats. These boats are strong and durable and look great out on the water. If you follow these steps, you’ll be able to build your own boat in no time.

How to Choose the Right Wood for Your Boat

If you’re in the market for a new boat, you may be wondering what kind of wood is best suited for the job. There are a few things to consider when making your decision. First, you’ll need to think about the weight of the boat. Heavier boats will need stronger wood that can support the additional weight. Second, you’ll need to take into account the climate in which you’ll be using the boat.

If you plan on sailing in salt water, for example, you’ll need to choose a type of wood that is resistant to salt water damage. Finally, you’ll need to consider your budget. Some types of wood are more expensive than others, so you’ll need to decide what you’re willing to spend. With these factors in mind, you should be able to choose the right wood for your boat.

Tips for Painting or Staining Your Wooden Boat

Painting or staining your wooden boat can be a great way to protect it from the elements and give it a new lease on life. However, there are a few things to keep in mind when undertaking this project. First, choosing the right type of paint or stain for the job is important. Marine-grade products are designed to withstand the harsh conditions of saltwater and sun exposure, so they’re a good choice for boats that spend a lot of time on the water.

Second, be sure to prepare the surface of the boat before painting or staining. This includes sanding down any rough spots and removing any old paint or stain that may be peeling. Finally, take your time when applying the paint or stain. Multiple thin coats are better than one thick coat, and it’s important to allow each coat to dry completely before applying the next.

Painting or staining your boat with a little care and attention can help it look new again. Keep reading for more information about how to build glued lapstrake wooden boats.

Tips for Maintaining and Repairing Your Wooden Boat

Wood is a beautiful and durable material for building boats, but it requires special care to keep it in good condition. Here are a few tips for maintaining and repairing your wooden boat:

To help prevent sun damage , regularly apply a coat of marine-grade varnish or paint. Be sure to sand the surface first to create a smooth finish.

To protect against water damage, regularly seal the wood with a waterproofing agent such as epoxy resin. You may also want to consider installing internal drains and bilge pumps to help remove water from the boat’s interior.

If your boat sustains any kind of damage, be sure to repair it as soon as possible. This will help prevent further damage and deterioration. Depending on the severity of the damage, you may be able to make repairs yourself, or you may need to hire a professional.

By following these tips, you can help ensure that your wooden boat will stay in good condition for many years to come.

Why Glued Lapstrake Construction is the Best Way to Build Boats

If you’re looking for the strongest and most durable way to build a boat, look no further than glued lapstrake construction. This method has been used for centuries, which is why it’s still around today. Glued lapstrake construction involves overlapping planks of wood, which are then fastened together with strong adhesives.

This creates a much stronger hull than one made from a single piece of wood. It also allows for greater flexibility, which is essential for boats used in rough conditions. In addition, glued lapstrake construction is much lighter than other methods, making it easier to transport and maneuver. For all these reasons, glued lapstrake construction is the best way to build boats.

What is the Best Wood for Lapstrake?

Lapstrake construction involves overlapping planks over each other to create a strong, watertight hull. Choosing the right wood for lapstrake construction is crucial to ensure that the vessel is durable and long-lasting. The best wood for making lapstrake boasts an excellent strength-to-weight ratio, high density, and resistance to rot and decay.

Woods such as Douglas fir, cedar, white oak, and mahogany are popular choices for their durability and flexibility. Douglas fir is favored for its strength and resistance to rot, while cedar is a lighter option that offers excellent resistance to moisture. White oak has a high tannin content, which makes it resistant to pests, fungi, and rot.

Meanwhile, mahogany is known for its beautiful grain patterns and natural resistance to water. Ultimately, the choice of wood for lapstrake construction depends on the vessel’s specific needs, including the conditions it will face and the desired finish. Properly selecting and preparing the wood is a crucial step in ensuring the long life of the vessel.

How to Build a Boat Out of Wood?

Building a wooden boat can be a hugely rewarding project for anyone who loves working with their hands and spending time on the water. To get started, you’ll need a good set of plans that outline the specific measurements and materials you’ll need. Once you have your plans, it’s time to gather your materials and tools.

You’ll need a variety of woods, including marine-grade plywood, as well as epoxy resin to seal and waterproof your boat. You’ll also need a range of woodworking tools, including saws, drills, and chisels. Once you have your materials and tools, it’s time to begin constructing your boat. This will involve cutting and shaping the wood according to your plans and then joining the boards together using glue and screws.

As you work, you’ll need to be patient and diligent, ensuring that each joint fits perfectly and that the boat is structurally sound. Once your boat is fully constructed, you’ll need to sand it down and finish it with a coat of marine varnish to help protect it against water damage.

So there you have it – a simple guide on how to build glued lapstrake wooden boats. By following these steps, you should be able to create a beautiful and sturdy vessel that will last for years of enjoyment. Have you tried building one of your own? We’d love to see photos or hear about your experiences in the comments section below.

Adrian Green

Lyman Boats LLC

We take great pride in being the home of the original Lyman Boat Works archives, including hull records, blueprints, photographs, patterns, jigs, and tooling all used to build these iconic boats. We serve as the center of excellence for the Lyman brand and the preservation of its history. Tom Koroknay a.k.a. "Doc Lyman" began restoring Lyman Boats in 1983, purchased the Lyman Boat Works archives and tooling pertaining to wooden boat production in 1988-91, and authored the historical book "Lyman Boats - Legend of the Lakes" published in 2004. Additionally, over the past 30+ years, he has provided educational services at several antique/classic boat museums across the country presenting on the history of the Lyman Boat Works. Since 1997, this website and online catalog have been the leading place to go for all your Lyman Boat restoration parts and supplies. Our online Lyman Boat Repair and Restoration Question and Answer page recently migrated to social media and is a great resource as well, promoting the preservation of Lyman Boats and serving the interests of owners throughout the world. We also provide an extensive listing of Lyman Boats for sale, historical documentation and memorabilia, and officially trademarked Lyman apparel and accessories.

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Kitsetting Glued Lapstrake Boat Designs

Important part – making sure all the parts are labelled!

Iain Oughtred has long had a reputation for designing beautiful and sea-worthy boats, but amongst the home boatbuilding fraternity, the apparent difficulties and risks of building classic clinker ply boats have put many off attempting a build of one of his masterpieces.

Moulds, apron and transom mounted on the building frame ready to start fairing.

About five years ago, I was already producing kits for the stitch and tape designs of Paul Fisher , when I decided to have a go at building one of Iain’s designs. After a considerable amount of expensive marine plywood had been consigned to the off-cuts box for use as kindling for the winter fire, I decided to sit down and try to work out a way of using a plate development programme to make up glued lapstrake kits on the CNC router.

Fairing the transom…

We started with the Feather Pram, being the smallest boat in his catalogue, and a few days later after a lot of experimentation on the CAD system, I marked out the planks and molds on some very cheap plywood and MDF, and started putting it together. As this boat was not intended to go on the water, I used some quick setting glue, and a few hours later, the first Feather Pram was built, proving that the basic method worked.

…and the apron.

When I spoke to Iain about this, he was less than impresssed, and did not really seem to believe me. The next step was to build a real boat with CNC cut planks and moulds. A few days later, it was wrapped up, strapped to the roof rack, and taken up to the Isle of Skye for Iain to actually see it in the flesh. Duly impressed, Iain gave me his blessing, and since then we have created kits for more than half of his design catalogue, with several variations along the way.

Gluing up the planking.

After an abortive start to having the kits cut in the US in 2005, we are now cutting them in the USA again, and these kits have already made their way to Vermont, Texas, and Washington State. Had it not been for the recession, they would have gone to Florida and Maryland as well, but that is the price of the bankers folly!

and clamping while it sets.

Why Glued Lapstrake?

There are considerable advantages in building in Glued Lapstrake compared to Stitch & Tape. The first is that you will use a great deal less epoxy than you might with S&T. Providing that you are careful with your application of epoxy, there will be a LOT less fairing and filling, so the working environment will be more pleasant as well. Without the tape to fair, it is much easier to obtain a good finish, and when you have finished your boat, most (but not all) people will think it is a more attractive boat. The downside, especially for newbies, is that there is a higher level of woodworking skill required, but with patience and forethought, a first timer will be able to produce a very good result, as some of the pictures show.

The finished boat.

When we first started producing the kits, I had thought that they would be extremely demanding in terms of the initial setup of the building frame, but in fact, we have found that they are a great deal more forgiving than first anticipated. There are two cases to illustrate that point. The first was that Feather Pram: I had secured the bow transom at the wrong angle, and found the laps getting smaller and smaller as I planked over the bilges. As we came up to the sheerstrake however, the laps returned to their correct widths, and we have a usable boat. The second example is an Auk build, where our customer set up the molds ½” further apart than he should have. By the time he realised that there was something wrong, two pairs of planks were already glued up on the moulds, and we had to make up a plan quickly. The scarph joints were shortened, and the boat went together with just the sheerstrake needing a few inches of scrap ply scarphed onto the end. We changed the kit documentation after that episode!

Oughtred Wee Rob Canoe

Other Designers

With the word having spread that we had successfully kitted the Oughtred designs, the phone started ringing with requests to kit other designers boats, so we have now made up glued lapstrake kits for Duck Trap’s Christmas Wherry and Duck Trap Wherry, the Whisstock 074, and Paul Fisher’s 9 & 15ft Northumbrian Cobles. We are more than happy to make up kits for other designs, but we will only do this with the permission of the copyright holder. Before you ask, sadly, Phil Bolger said “No”. I had hoped to get over the Pond see him this summer to try to persuade him otherwise, but his sad passing locks this possibility away for good.

Oughtred Tirrik

So, what do you get in the kit…

At present, the kits consist only of the plywood planking, and the molds over which the hull is built. We also supply full size patterns for the Apron and Transom which differ very slightly from Iain’s plans as we re-loft the hull in our CAD system. There are notes regarding the specific kit, but for planking the hull, there is a guide on our website. For all the other detail, we recommend Iain’s Clinker Plywood Boatbuilding Manual ISBN 0-937822-61-2.

Oughtred Humble Bee – awaiting Paint

You will need to supply all the other timbers, fixings, epoxy, fittings etc. The kits are shipped in flat pack 8x4 sheets with the parts being held in place in the plywood sheets by tabs.

Arctic Tern

The kits are sold by us in the UK, and cut in Maine using Bruynzeel BS1088 Gaboon ply. We do care strongly about the quality of the kits, and we will happily answer any questions you have about the them, either before you buy, or while you are building. If necessary, we will call you back if you need to speak to us to clarify some point.

Oughtred Auk

If you are reading this from Australia or New Zealand, the kits are also being cut in Australia by NISBoats.

Selway Fisher in Clinker Ply

Visit Alec's website at: https://jordanboats.co.uk

50th Anniversary Collectors Issue - September/October Issue No. 300 Preview Now

July / August 2021

Thoughts on lapstrake planking.

Harry Bryan, at the helm of a lapstrake-planked boat built to his Rambler design, has been building boats of the type for decades in Letete, New Brunswick.

The first boat to come out of our shop in New Brunswick, Canada, was a carvel-planked steam launch completed in 1976. We went on to build numerous boats, many of which were lapstrake-planked. As I think back to those early years, I recall that the books and articles I depended on to increase my knowledge of lapstrake planking left many questions unanswered, even though in some ways that type of planking is more forgiving than carvel.

What follows are some answers that time and experience have cleared up for me, and I hope they will help take some of the mystery out of lapstrake planking for others. I will focus here on planking in which only one edge of each plank is beveled, which is by far the most common method and the easiest to understand.

The drawings all show a hull built upside down, which is a common method, but the references can be confusing: just as starboard is always starboard and port is always port, “up” is always toward the sheer and “down” is always toward the keel, regardless of the boat’s orientation on the building jig.

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What the Lapstrake Kit Includes

This is a true lapstrake boat, built on a strong back and not a stitch and glue version of lapstrake

» Computer cut Templates for the planks, bottom, and all station molds that aren’t bulkheads. These are cut from inexpensive 1/4 inch plywood. This means no lofting because the station molds are traced on the material used for molds.

» Bottom, planks, and bulkheads are computer cut from Lloyds Certified BS 1088 okume plywood.

» Each plank and the bottom have a step scarf pre-cut. Also each plank is labeled with a letter (G for garboard, M for mid-plank, S for sheer) and station numbers marked on the plank. Bulkheads are numbered and marked with a center line. This makes assembly simple and fast, with no confusion.

» Lloyds certified BS 1088 Plywood for the Decks

» Solid lumber for the inwales and outwales is pre-cut to dimension and has a 12 to 1 scarf pre-cut. The solid lumber for the cleats and sheer clamps are cut to dimension.

» Screws and hardware for hatches

» Of course, a well-illustrated manual and personal tech support

What is Lloyds Certified BS1088 plywood?

» Lloyds certification means that the plywood is certified by Lloyds of London to meet all BS1088 standards. Because not all BS1088 plywood is created equal using Lloyds certified plywood is your best way to assure the plywood in your boat is the top quality

Please feel free to contact us anytime with questions concerning our boat kits or your order/purchase.

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Boat Profile

Ptarmigan 17

A Selway Fisher pocket cruiser

From Issue Small Boats Annual 2023 December 2021

Y ears ago, I had built and sailed a 14′ flat-bottomed skiff, but the time had come for something with more capacity, capability, and comfort. A few times my wife Ramona and I had been caught in rough conditions that made me feel more than a bit uncomfortable, and I didn’t feel confident heading out to distant shores with the little boat. And sleeping under a tented boom, well, I’d had enough of that. Still, it was nice to have a boat I could tow home and store in the garage where I could keep it in good repair.

Selway Fisher’s Ptarmigan 17, as drawn, met most of my needs and could be adapted to suit the rest. The options detailed in the plans took care of my wants, and the design appears to accommodate amateur builders with a range of skills and requirements. There are drawings for both stitch-and-tape and glued-plywood lapstrake construction. You can also choose between a simple catboat rig and a yawl rig. With all the options for customization, I wouldn’t be surprised to see 10 different boats built from the same set of Ptarmigan 17 plans.

The glued-plywood lapstrake construction accentuates the hull’s curves. Stitch-and-tape construction without the laps is an option included in the plans.

The boat’s optional yawl rig had piqued my interest. I liked the idea of sailing under a balanced helm if the conditions got too serious, and I thought that the smaller mainmast on the yawl rig would be a bit lighter to lift. The combination tabernacle-equipped mainmast, small cabin, and ease of trailering led me to finally choose this design.

The building package comes with seven sheets of construction plans and a 14-page booklet of instructions. Dimensions are metric. A concise building schedule outlines each step of the build with recommendations on the choice of plywood, instructions on using epoxy, and what fastenings to use. There’s a section on how to lay out and draw the side panels on the plywood, and how to draw curved elements using a grid pattern. Measured drawings for the molds, stitch-and-tape side panels, bottom panel, and stem are clear and easy to follow. You do not need to do any lofting to build this boat. There are detailed drawings and instructions on stitching and filleting. The plans are complete with details for building sub-components such as rudder, centerboard and trunk, and the tabernacle. The plans are cross-referenced with the instruction booklet and provide the recommended scantlings.

There are instructions for building an outboard well or a transom cutout. All specifications for the standing and running rigging are listed. For builders interested in making their own sails, there’s even a reference to a Selway publication on that topic. The booklet is light on details for the four-strake, glued-lap plywood version; however, there are several good books available on the topic.

Both of the Ptarmigan 17’s sail rigs are gaff-rigged. The single-mast catboat rig carries a sail area of 139 sq ft and includes the dimensions for an optional 24-sq-ft jib. The yawl rig’s total sail area is a little smaller at 135 sq ft, with a main of 79 sq ft, a jib of 36 sq ft, and a leg-o’-mutton mizzen of 20 sq ft. There are two reefpoints drawn on the mainsails. With the yawl rig you can douse the mainsail in high winds and sail with a balanced helm under jib and mizzen. The yawl—with bowsprit and boomkin —is almost 23′ in sparred length. The mizzen is self-tending and only requires attention when coming off the wind. The plans do not specifically address tackle, but we made our own blocks in keeping with the overall look and feel of the boat. There are several good articles on making your own blocks in various publications.

I found the plans for this boat detailed, complete, and accurate, and while a few questions did arise, they were quickly answered via email. When I started this build, I found many ways of keeping safe and saving time; the project took me five months of full-time effort.

T he boat tows well behind an SUV or pickup truck, and the trailer does not require brakes for the boat’s 1,300 lbs. The flat bottom and shallow 6″ keel help keep the weight low in the boat. For trailering, I keep the bowsprit attached and secure the mast in a cross-framed 2×4 support; the gaff, boom, and mizzen are supported and strapped to the frame and the forward ends pass through the companionway.

The yawl rig has an 18.9 sq ft mizzen, a 78.8 sq ft main, and a 36.6 sq ft headsail.

With some practice, the yawl can be rigged and ready to go in about 20–25 minutes. It saves time to tag the rigging to help remember where the stays go and in what order they go on. The mast is lifted with its three stays, three halyards, and the topping lift set in place. The foot of the mast is secured in the tabernacle. Lifting the rigged mast requires some effort but is manageable and made easier with the help of someone pulling on the headstay. I secure the jaws of both the gaff and the boom using 1/8″ braided nylon cord with several parrel beads threaded on. I lace on the sails, add the rudder and motor, take off the securing straps, and I’m set to launch. When hauling out at the ramp, I have a 2,000-lb single-speed hand-operated winch that handles the boat with ease. The boat always seems to attract a crowd filled with compliments, comments, and questions.

The plans call for open slats for the cockpit seating and sole. The builder’s modification to plywood enclosures provides convenient storage.

The 5′x 6′ cockpit will accommodate four but is most comfortable with one or two. With two, there’s plenty of room to hoist the sails and move around when coming about. The helmsman has a clear view forward of the small jib over the cabin. The mainsail is high enough off the cabin roof to have a clear view to port and starboard. All sheets and halyards are led aft into the cockpit and can be easily handled without the need for winches. The throat and peak halyards need a hefty tug. The plans call for 7mm (3/8″) halyards, which I find easy on the hands. The 65″ x 25″ footwell is 17″ deep. The trunk is 4″ wide and its cap is 12″ above the cockpit sole. It extends into the footwell 20″ and passes through the main bulkhead to within a foot of the forepeak bulkhead. The steel centerboard is raised and lowered with the help of a worm-gear winch that is operated from the cockpit. With the board down, the boat draws 3-1/2′.

The cabin has bunks for two. The centerboard trunk divides the footwell between them.

The cabin interior is 6-1/2′ x 5-1/2′ and is 52″ high at the crown. There are two bunks that run the length of the cabin and are 26″ at their widest. For sitting there is good headroom and ample legroom in the footwell between the bunks. Storage compartments are built into the underside of each bunk. It’s a simple interior, but it keeps you dry. The yawl cabin has a support post under the tabernacle that is about 16″ abaft the forepeak bulkhead. The tabernacle in the catboat version is supported by the forepeak bulkhead. The plans call for a sliding plywood hatch over the companionway, but I chose to make mine with a plexiglass top for added light in the cabin. There are two 12″ x 16″ windows on the cabin sides. If you wish to build a self-righting boat, the instruction booklet calls for adding buoyancy under the cockpit benches and forward of the forepeak bulkhead. An additional 160 lbs of lead can be bolted to the floor as extra ballast.

The boat’s 1,300-lb weight gives the feeling of stability—it is not tippy when you step aboard—and will carry through when tacking in light air. The Ptarmigan 17 was designed for inland lakes, estuaries, and coastal areas, and I have never felt uncomfortable in these waters. Adding one or two larger sails both on the jib and mizzen would be nice to have for sailing downwind and in lighter wind conditions. In windy conditions, the first reef goes in when the winds approach 20 knots. Anything above this and the main is doused and tied off. Even in these conditions the boat has never left me feeling unsafe; it feels stable and there is no need to put the rail in the water. The ride is generally dry, with little spray. Passengers in the cockpit can sit close behind the cabin to shelter from the elements. The rudder is shallow and extends 3’ beyond the transom. It controls the boat well in all conditions.

While the builder ultimately chose to use an outboard bracket, his Ptarmigan 17 has a built-in motorwell appropriate for a small outboard. The opening of the well is visible at the bottom of the transom.

The plans and notes describe an optional motorwell, set to starboard, but do not specify the size of the auxiliary outboard motor. A 2.5-hp is all Ramona and I need to get into and out of the harbor, or back home when the wind dies. I built the motorwell to house an electric trolling motor but found that I needed more power, so I switched to a small gas motor that I set on a transom-mounted bracket. The motorwell could easily accommodate the 2.5-hp outboard.

W hen I decided to build this boat there wasn’t a lot of information on how the boat would perform. A few pictures and a description by the designer were all that I had. My experience with a smaller boat helped refine my requirements for the new boat, which the Ptarmigan 17 met: capable of crossing the larger lakes in almost any condition, easily towed behind our pickup, and equipped with a dry bed to crawl into at night. I did make some modifications, such as building a self-draining footwell and building fiberglass-covered benches to drain the rainwater over the side. To provide more storage space, I extended the forward ends of the side benches, covering the centerboard trunk with more seating. Now I can leave the boat unattended at a mooring without having to worry about the cockpit filling with water.

If you’re looking for a small cruising sailboat to explore far and wide, that you can easily trailer and store at home in between adventures, then you should take a close look at the Ptarmigan 17. Just be ready for the many admirers you’ll meet along the way.

Steve Cormack is a self-taught amateur builder with a workshop in Pender Harbour, British Columbia. He started building boats nearly 40 years ago and has completed several small plywood kayaks and strip canoes. In addition to the Ptarmigan, he has built a Handy Billy motorboat (which he uses for day trips), and a Selway Fisher Blackswan 22 for cruising. He is currently finishing a 32′ Lake Union–style dreamboat based on a Katherine 30, designed by William Hand Jr.

Ptarmigan 17 Particulars

Beam/6′ 11″

Hull depth amidships/2′4.5″

Draft, board up/1′2″

Draft, board down/3′5″

Sail area, cat/139 sq ft

Sail area, yawl/135 sq ft

Maximum headroom/4′6″

Plans for the Ptarmigan are available from Selway-Fisher (£195 print, £175 PDF) and Duckworks ($236 print or PDF).

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Comments (6)

Wow! Amazing! Do these plans include the modifications of the self draining foot wells and benches and storage space? Or are those changes a builder would have to figure out on their own?

Stacey, I modified the design according to a few of my own preferences. One was for a self-bailing cockpit floor and the other was for seats that would shed the rain water. These adaptations are well suited to our climate here on the west coast of Canada.

Hello Steve, You have built a very charming pocket cruiser. You obviously have some accomplished woodworking skills. Are the protruding frames above the deck and the strong bulwark attached to them a modification to original design plans? A lovely and practical feature. How is the deck sealed around frames to ensure waterproofing? Is there room for a portable loo and small galley flat in the cabin? Any frustrating weather helm issues with the yawl rig? Lawrence

Thanks, Lawrence. Yes, I did extend the frames to allow for the small bulwarks. I used epoxy putty to fill any voids then covered the deck with a 6-oz glass cloth set in epoxy. I have not had any issues with leaks as of yet.

I suppose you could fit a small portable loo if designed in during construction; same for the galley. I might suggest a galley that could be set up when needed and stowed especially at night when you need the space for the berth.

I don’t recall any issues with weather helm as of yet, and am more than happy to have the option of dousing the main altogether should the conditions require it.

I watched your video of your Black Swan project and of your Ptarmigan 17 build. I am certain Paul Fisher must be very pleased and honoured by your handiwork. Congratulations! Lawrence

Do you suppose the cat rig could be replaced by a junk rig fairly easily, with the sacrifice of a through-cabin mast?

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