Boat: 48 Wauquiez Pilot Saloon
| | 21-03-2016, 06:48 | | Boat: Bristol 32
| mounts and so on, and this became a major event. Everything had been installed in '95. So, it was WAY past time to renew it all.
There is very, very little room behind the of a B32. The had to come out, first of all, and even then I couldn't really get any under there. I thought of tying a to my daughter's leg and stuffing her down a , but that didn't seem ... and there was some question about the shaft being torqued. So I cut it out of the with a sawzall. I sent out for a new one with a new matched coupling, and a kit for the PSS. The prop got overhauled. I picked up the y2gmf with a spanish made out of tubular webbing from a 2x4 spanning the top of the , and replaced all four mounts. The damn things might as well be made of gold. The cutlass bearing got cut out with a hacksaw blade(only way) and replaced. Alignment was a little time consuming, but not as tricky as I thought. I just kept moving back and forth from the with a prybar and some wrenches(engine) and cramming myself into the locker with a .001 feeler gauge.(coupling) This took about an hour. It was very difficult to get enough on the new PSS baffle, but finally that was done as well.
The prop turns with no binding in neutral (on the hard, obviously) and while she does make a few cups of after six hours of motoring, I consider the a success.
Incidentally, I never did find out how the shaft backed out, but I suspect the motor mounts. Whatever. Considering the age of everything(!) this had to happen anyway.
The total cost was something on the order of $1,400 dollars, largely because of those damn motor mounts. $245 each? Really, ? For frickin' rubber? Seriously? But I had received solemn advise not to go with aftermarket. (sigh) ok. Total time was several days, and a LOT of headscratching. Let me know if you want to turn a nut while lying face down, feet extended above you toward the stern, with arm fully extended, over a gaping, bottomless hole, with a ratchet plus extension. I can give endless . | | | | | 25-03-2016, 23:33 | | Boat: 1979 Bristol 35.5 CB
| made in 2 halves? The stern tube itself may be leaking where it joins the . If the PSS , it usually throws a black stripe perpendicular to the shaft. Check that the carbon face is not damaged. | | | | | 24-04-2016, 11:40 | | Boat: 1966 Bristol 32
| in a gradual way. This has worked out quite well. I have the luxury of sailing on inland waters while figuring things out and still have a couple of seasons to go before I plan on doing any coastal cruising.
I have found some interesting threads here regarding the pros and cons of the Bristol 32 and I think this thread gives a good indication of the very poor access to the , drive train, and stuffing box on the Bristol 32.
My boat got some extensive upgrades around 1995 and is in quite good condition. The only I did prior to going sailing was to cut out the plywood/fibreglass for the aft and it like the original design.
After 2 seasons, I think it's time to do the stuffing box. Remarkably, I suspect this hasn't been done since the mid nineties when the 3 cylinder Yanmar cooled engine was installed, about 900 hours ago. I've been keeping a very close watch on the stuffing box and the shaft log looks good but the drip rate was quite high when underway, probably slightly more than one drip per second.
Anyway, just getting access to the stuffing box seems like mission impossible. With the three cylinder engine I probably have even less room to than Mainebristol.
I find this situation unacceptable from a design stand point and will be looking at ways to get better access in the future. I seeing some photos of a modified B32 with what looked like an access built into the cockpit floor. To get that to on my boat would require moving the aft. I think that's what was done on the B32 I mentioned but it was probably a smaller custom built tank.
My present plan is to remove the screws holding the engine to the , the entire engine, mounts, and drive shaft forward up a 2X6 , then take it from there. This is totally nuts, of course, but I don't see a better way to do it. Hopefully, once the engine is pulled forward I can come up with a way to get better access in the future.
The will be starting in a couple of weeks and I plan on some progress reports on a new thread but in the meantime, any tips, comments or warnings? | | | | | 24-04-2016, 19:17 | | Boat: 1979 Bristol 35.5 CB
| | | | | | 25-04-2016, 07:20 | | Boat: Bristol 32
| in there? Or a hot water , maybe? I've got to port, and I had a hot water heater to starboard, but I removed the water heater. With that out of the way, I was able to gain access. Painful access, but access none the less. With my feet jammed up inside the locker toward the stern, lying on my belly, I could get in there with whatever tools I needed. Stuff a blanket or something big down the hole so you don't drop your tools down there.
I'm six feet, and an expanding 245 pounds. I'm fifty six. I could just manage this without major injury.
If you do pull your engine, take the opportunity to replace the engine mounts, which harden over time. These are very, very expensive, so it helps to pull out some nose hairs to get in the proper mood before you order them. Be sure to get the proper replacements! This can be screwed up! Take your time aligning your engine. This has to be done right. For what it's worth, I picked mine up with some tubular webbing strung over a 2by4 place over the companionway.
This whole process was a pain, but it can be done. Please let me know if you have any questions.
MaineBristol, B32 "Eider" | | | | | 25-04-2016, 07:36 | | Boat: Bristol 32
| feature endless well-meaning epistles without really illustrating things in a meaningful way, if that makes sense. Sorry. | | | | | 25-04-2016, 09:27 | | Boat: 1966 Bristol 32
| and in the starboard locker. The port locker just has the manual so will take a closer look there. My initial impression regarding access through the locker wasn't good but as you managed to get some things done from there I will give it a shot. Working through the engine bay I could barely get a wrench on the stuffing box and trying to apply enough torque to even loosen the lock nut proved impossible on my first attempt. Even assuming I can get the stuffing box nuts loose I don't see a way to get adequate access to re-pack it without dragging everything forward.
Once I get back to the boat in about a week I will check the locker access. I understand the comments regarding the engine mounts and a PSS system. If I end up pulling all kinds of things apart it would be best to spend some now and not have to worry so much about those items in the future. | | | | | 26-04-2016, 03:31 | | Boat: Jon Sayer 1-off 46 ft fract rig sloop strip plank in W Red Cedar
| had to live with them for a few years! If they had to things themselves, more attention to access would be paid!
Jim | | | | | 26-04-2016, 05:37 | | Boat: Tartan 40
| had to live with them for a few years! If they had to things themselves, more attention to access would be paid!
Jim | | 26-04-2016, 09:59 | | Boat: 1966 Bristol 32
| | 29-05-2016, 08:24 | | Boat: Bristol 32
| in the way of access from above, so a hatch through the cockpit won't help. I guess my answer is that once every decade or so I'm gonna pick that Yanmar bastard up with a spanish from the top of the companionway, and do the work from the cockpit locker. Realistically, I may be able to do this once more, due to age. After that, I'll have to hire some luckless youth.
One thing, though. After going through this once, I know it can be done. No part of this job is terribly daunting, just do yourself a favor and take it one step at a time. In total, it's no more than a day's miserable work. A helper is useful, but not required. BE SURE TO STUFF SOMETHING BULKY DOWN THE HOLE! It's not like you can turn the boat upside down and shake it. Ask me how I know. | | | | | 30-05-2016, 10:44 | | Boat: 1966 Bristol 32
| , partly because I live away from the boat, and partly because working on boats is all new to me. I usually look at things for about 3 hours for every 30 minutes of actual work!
The engine has been pulled forward up the using a come along and it's sitting on the ramp at the aft end of the floor. The drive shaft pulled through the stern tube and stuffing box OK but I should have adjusted the ramp angle and elevation a bit better to avoid the end of the shaft hanging up a bit on the stern tube.
The drive shaft has been removed and looks in good shape. The old 3 ply shaft hose and clamps were in surprisingly good shape and probably would have lasted another 20 years. Even with the stuffing box removed I had a hard time moving the lock nut and needed 2 pipe wrench's with a foot on one of them to get it released. The packing material looked quite good [probably teflon type] and the three rings came out intact. If I could have tightened it a bit I think it may have been good for a few more years.
I just got a 1 5/8 ID 5 ply shaft hose delivered but it will be a week before I can get back to the boat and put things together. I think I can get the boat back in the water by mid June. The Yanmar engine mounts look good even though they are probably 20 years old. I'm going to take a chance and see if they are good for another 10 years. Will try to check the shaft alignment during .
The drive shaft is remarkably short, only 21 inches long. The tight packaging makes difficult. It's not all bad though, the cut out in the makes prop easy, even with the 13 inch prop. I think drive shaft with the engine in place would be possible after removal of the , starter and air filter. I guess it would be logical to use a split coupling on this boat but after a quick look through a catalog I'm not sure if there is one available for a 7/8 inch shaft. Even if one is available, it may end up being too long.
Once I get the boat back in the water I will try and post a few pics and describe the ramp system a bit better. It seems to be a good approach and might prove useful to anyone with access issues. | | | | | 30-05-2016, 11:59 | | Boat: Bristol 32
| | | | | | 30-05-2016, 12:20 | | | | - Elmore Leonard
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Viewing a Bristol 32 tonight... QuestionsHi all, The joy and nerves of purchasing one's first boat are upon me. I've gone from pining for a boat from my "dream list", all of which are very much out of my price range, to shopping for something I can afford now. Enter the Bristols: from what I have read, they came from a respected yard where they were well designed and well laid, capable of passage making (yes, with upgrades), popular with a decent owners organization, and surprisingly affordable today. Cutting to the chase, tonight, I'm going to view a 1968 Bristol 32 that's being offered for sale at a price that generated my interest. I've been more successful at finding data on the more popular 24's and 27's than I have the 32. That coupled with the fact that this is the first time I'm shopping for a yacht, I have (a myriad of) questions. I'll limit them. Main concern: The boat is on the hard in the owner's driveway. The owner purchased it 1.5 years ago, then was in an accident that rendered him incapable of sailing. He's never had it in the water. He purchased it from a local marina (whom I've contacted; they don't remember the vessel off the top of their heads but are researching for me) who was selling it for an elderly man. The current owner seems knowledgable enough, but, I'm leery of purchasing without knowing when it was last in the water. Owner says that the seacocks, stuffing boxes, and fuel filters have been serviced along with new bottom paint, "amongst others". Most of his attention/work has been paid to the cabin. If the first looks today are good, I'll be seeking someone with more knowledge than I to come and have a look see with me. But for tonight, here's what I'm looking for, please add to this list: Leaking tanks (water in the bilge, fumes), engine run?, mold / signs of leakage in cabin, state of the electronics, quality of included sails, crazing, chainplates, condition of rigging... Your experience and knowledge are always appreciated.  If you can't afford a survey think about the unexpected repairs you won't be able to afford. Do not buy it without putting it in the water!! Does the engine run? Batteries dead? Electronics work? Let it sink on the current owner's dime, not yours! jsaronson said: If you can't afford a survey think about the unexpected repairs you won't be able to afford. Do not buy it without putting it in the water!! Does the engine run? Batteries dead? Electronics work? Let it sink on the current owner's dime, not yours! Click to expand...  I owned a 1976 Bristol 32, don't know how much different it would be.. When I brought here - in the mid 90's she was a rock solid boat! the only core issue I had was in the cockpit where the travelor was - had some spongy balsa, but that was it. Did need to rerig, new thru hulls, new sails refrig and added a propane system but the hull was in perfect shape. If your getting insurance- you will need a surveyors report. What kind of engine- I believe they originally had atomic 4 gas engines. Good luck BluemanSailor said: If your getting insurance- you will need a surveyors report. What kind of engine- I believe they originally had atomic 4 gas engines. Good luck Click to expand...  Buy and read Don Casey's "Complete Illustrated Sailboat Maintenance Manual", the first section of which is entitled "Inspecting the Aging Sailboat", before inspecting a boat you are considering purchasing. Also read "This Old Boat" by Don Casey to understand better what you are getting yourself into. jameswilson29 said: Buy and read Don Casey's "Complete Illustrated Sailboat Maintenance Manual", the first section of which is entitled "Inspecting the Aging Sailboat", before inspecting a boat you are considering purchasing. Also read "This Old Boat" by Don Casey to understand better what you are getting yourself into. Click to expand... Good engine easy to repair. Engine hours? Does PO have maintenance records? When I brought my present boat PO had all the records - PO did some stupid things but overall he's been terrific with me. Hope you have the same luck! I paid for a survey and he was right on with all the problems and the repairs that needed to be done. It reads like a punch list for me. BluemanSailor said: Good engine easy to repair. Engine hours? Does PO have maintenance records? When I brought my present boat PO had all the records - PO did some stupid things but overall he's been terrific with me. Hope you have the same luck! I paid for a survey and he was right on with all the problems and the repairs that needed to be done. It reads like a punch list for me. Click to expand...  Just my opinion but I don't put the electronics on the list of deal breakers. If the boat hasn't been sailed in quite a few years there have been advances with newer electronics that you might want to have anyway. Also, if the PO didn't sail the boat how you intend to sail it, the electronics they have may not make sense for your intended use. Any of that stuff can easily be added later. Re. the Don Casey book. Your library may have it. I know mine does. Re. survey, look at it yourselves first, then if still interested you would be crazy not to have a survey done. As has been said here earlier you will need one for insurance anyway. If there are issues that need addressing you will need to have another one after you fix them (to satisfy insurance company) unless you pay a reputable yard to repair. I believe it will be cheaper to fix yourself and then get another survey. In my case I bought a boat that had a leaky fuel tank. This was noted in the survey so no insurance until afterI replaced it myself and then hired a surveyor just to inspect my work so it was much less than a full survey would have cost. - Look inside lockers for signs of water leaks.
- Check hull to deck joint and if you see bolts they should not be rusted, otherwise you are looking at an expensive repair.
- As you walk on deck pay attention to how solid it is or isn't.
- Don't pay attention to electronics.
- Check the sails - are they soft, can you poke your finger thru it? Or are they hard and heavy.
- Ask how old the rigging is.
- Check the rudder and the shaft for play - there should be none.
Thank you all. All advice being heeded. -K A link was passed along to me that I've found very helpful. In case anyone finds this thread in the future or for anyone currently subscribed: http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=102541  great link. I'm biased, but a big fan of Bristol! That said be aware that you are looking at (and may own) a 45 year old boat so go in with your eyes wide open. With older boats it all comes down to maintenance. I'd say that when you look at the boat, scrutinize the owner as much as the boat itself. Look at his car, his house, talk about his projects (both on and off the boat). Does he do things well or just knock it out? Does he have pride in his work? Is boat work a chore for him or a labor of love? The older the boat is the harder it is to get this sort of info since there have been potentially many owners in the chain. good luck! the 32 is a beautiful boat. '68 Bristol had aft cockpit traveller, so no issues like the '76 and newer. Decks should feel solid as concrete since they are solid fiberglass (no wood cores). If they don't feel solid, there could be something, but these boats are not known for weak decks. '76 and newer had 4ft reduction in mast height on tall and short rigs, as well as a little less ballast (couple hundred pounds). Boom was about 2 feet shorter. I don't think Universal was an original engine in '68 so you might luck out on the associated hardware, maybe even the fuel tank. If it hasn't been addressed, the most likely source of water in the bilges will be from the hull/deck joint. Bristol used quality hardware, but the joint will leak unless it's been re-sealed. Check for play in the rudder. Though well built, even it will need attention at some point. In cabin look at chainplates and shelves for signs of delamination from water or severe hull abuse (like banging around in a marina during a hurricane). Good luck. Cannot stress the value of a survey enough. I would walk through the boat, see what you can see. In looking at boats recently, that was enough to make me walk away several times. But in the end, I found a boat that I liked and the owner had spent a lot of time working on the boat (and was knowledgeable and skilled). Long story short, the agreed price was $7k. Surveyor found some somewhat important problems with the boat that the owner wasn't aware of. Owner dropped price to $6500 and is now fixing all the problems. I feel a bit bad. The surveyor valued the boat quite a bit lower than I think was reasonable (from knowing the market a bit). So the owner was really caught short and I feel a little bad for him. But I don't have extra money floating around. You can really only find so much by yourself unless you know what you are looking for. Best $475 I ever spent. I would search hard for the best guy in your area and whatever he quotes you, pay it. Attachments Cabin Overall.  It sounds like the most important part of this first boat purchase is that you're leading with your head and not your heart. Best of luck. If this isn't The One, there are others waiting for a good home. Since I have most of your attention, I was quoted $877/year for insurance from BoatUS. This number sound about right for coastal Atlantic cruising?  That is not an outrageous insurance premium for a year. You might be able to get it a bit cheaper IF you have a homeowner's insurance (&/or auto) policy and your company will cover the boat as well. Worth investigating but you'd likely not save more than $100 - 200. What is usually more expensive is the docking, mooring & winter storage fees. Where ya' going to keep this Bristol 32' around NYC?  That insurance premium sounds o.k. to me. We have a 1975 24' Bristol that is insured through BoatUS for approx. $300/year. As an aside, there is a very active Yahoo group for Bristol owners that you may want to check out. I've found the members to very helpful with my Bristol-specific questions. through Boat US I pay ~300/yr, but going into the Atlantic is explicitly excluded. IIRC it would have been ~700/yr to include the Atlantic in the policy. so it sounds like you are in the right ballpark. For me it works out, the majority of my sailing is within the confines of the Pamlico sound. If I plan to go outside I call them and get a rider for the week for 5 or 10 bucks. btw beautiful boat!  That's in the ballpark of what I pay..for coverage on the East Coast from NS to Jacksonville Fla. Same company. Includes the dinghy. ( $500 deductable) Add another $150 or so for unlimited towing + boat us membership. Edit: I'm down to $137.00 deductable. Diminished by being claim free. I'm wondering now, if I take my deductable up, can I bring my premiums down...hmm.. Thanks for all the comparisons. Bristol299bob,thanks for the idea of adding a rider whenever / if a panned trip outside insured range happens! For everyone still following along, I've been cheating on Sailnet with this topic (commitment phobe) over at Cruisers Forum and have received some good insight and links that some may find useful in the future: http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f128/first-boat-purchase-going-to-have-a-look-at-a-bristol-32-a-105805.html Chats with partners were had... numbers hashed out... pros and cons weighed... decisions were made... and a deposit is ready to be put down. Now if I could just get in touch with the seller... That interior looks nice! Good luck with the purchase. Top Contributors this Month Recommended Communities  | | | |
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