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Yachticon Epoxy Kleber in Spritze 2 x 12 ml

Yachticon

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  • Beschreibung Der Yachticon Epoxy-Kleber ist ein schnell-härtender, transparenter Zweikomponenten-Klebstoff mit extrem starker Klebkraft.… Mehr

Der Yachticon Epoxy-Kleber ist ein schnell-härtender, transparenter Zweikomponenten-Klebstoff mit extrem starker Klebkraft. Wird in einer leicht dosierbaren Spritze geliefert.  Verbindet elastisch und stoßfest mit hoher Zugfestigkeit. Ideal zum Verkleben von Metall, Glas, Stein, Keramik, Holz und vielen Hartkunststoffen. Einfach in der Anwendung. Lieferung in einer Verpackung mit zwei Spritzen und je 12 ml Inhalt pro Spritze.

EUH-, H- und P-Sätze: H315: Verursacht Hautreizungen., H317: Kann allergische Hautreaktionen verursachen., H319: Verursacht schwere Augenreizung., H411: Giftig für Wasserorganismen, mit langfristiger Wirkung., H412: Schädlich für Wasserorganismen, mit langfristiger Wirkung., P261: Einatmen von Staub / Rauch / Gas / Nebel / Dampf / Aerosol vermeiden., P264: Nach Gebrauch ... gründlich waschen., P273: Freisetzung in die Umwelt vermeiden., P280: Schutzhandschuhe/ Schutzkleidung/Augenschutz/ Gesichtsschutz tragen., P302+P352: BEI BERÜHRUNG MIT DER HAUT: Mit viel Wasser/… waschen., P305+P351+P338: BEI KONTAKT MIT DEN AUGEN: Einige Minuten lang behutsam mit Wasser spülen. Eventuell vorhandene Kontaktlinsen nach Möglichkeit entfernen. Weiter spülen., P333+P313: Bei Hautreizung oder -ausschlag: Ärztlichen Rat einholen/ärztliche Hilfe hinzuziehen., P337+P313: Bei anhaltender Augenreizung: Ärztlichen Rat einholen/ärztliche Hilfe hinzuziehen., P362+P364: Kontaminierte Kleidung ausziehen und vor erneutem Tragen waschen., P391: Verschüttete Mengen aufnehmen., P501: Inhalt/Behälter ... zuführen.
Signalwort: Achtung!
  • Download 510097-Sicherheitsdatenblatt
  • Download 510097-Sicherheitsdatenblatt_2

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Bild von Sikaflex - Marine-Flächenklebstoff 298 FC / schwarz/ 600 ml

YACHTICON Epoxy-Klebstoff / Spritze / 2 x 12 ml

YACHTICON Epoxy-Klebstoff Spritze 2 x 12 ml Bild 1 von 2

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Produktbeschreibung

  • schnellhärtend
  • dauerelastische und stoßfeste Verbindungen

Produktabbildung von  2-K Mixtülle

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Produktabbildung von SIKA Sikaflex - 291i Marine-Dichtstoff / Fugenmasse

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Produktabbildung von SIKA Sikaflex - Marine-Flächenklebstoff 298 FC / schwarz/ 600 ml

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Benutzerbild von Dirk M.

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Alles über Epoxy Reparaturen am Boot

Alles über Epoxy Reparaturen am Boot

Was ist Glasfaserverstärkter Kunststoff und was ist Epoxid-GFK? Erfahren Sie alles über das Thema Epoxid-Harze, Glasgelege und Topcoats sowie Sie mit diesen arbeiten in unserem SVB-Guide.

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Yachticon Epoxy Kleber, 24 ml

YA11561.jpg

Preise inkl. MwSt. zzgl. Versandkosten

  • Schnellhärtender transparenter 2-Komponenten-Klebstoff mit extrem starkem Halt
  • Zum Verkleben von fast allen Materialien geeignet, mit hoher Zug- und Schlagfestigkeit
  • Doppelspritze mit 24 ml

Achtung

Sofort verfügbar

  • Beschreibung Yachticon Epoxy Kleber, 24 ml Der YACHTICON Epoxy-Klebstoff 2x12ml bietet extra feste und dauerhafte Verbindungen für nahezu… Mehr
  • Infos zum Hersteller Folgende Infos zum Hersteller sind verfübar... Mehr
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Der YACHTICON Epoxy-Klebstoff 2x12ml bietet extra feste und dauerhafte Verbindungen für nahezu alle Materialien. Dieser schnellhärtende, zähflüssige und selbstnivellierende Klebstoff ist transparent und ideal für Konstruktion oder Montage, bei denen nur geringe Mengen benötigt werden.

Er eignet sich für zahlreiche Werkstoffe wie Metalle, Kunststoffe, Faserverbundwerkstoffe, Keramik, Glas, Stein und Holz. Der Klebstoff bewirkt dauerelastische, stoßfeste Verbindungen, die besonders robust und langlebig sind.

Technische Daten:

  • Verarbeitungstemperatur: +10 bis +30 °C
  • Aushärtungstemperatur: +6 bis +40 °C
  • Aushärtezeiten (bei 10 ml Ansatz):
  • Topfzeit bei +20 °C : 3 - 4 min.
  • Handfest (35 % Festigkeit): nach 30 min.
  • Mechanisch belastbar (50 % Festigkeit): nach 1 Std.
  • Endhärte (100 % Festigkeit): nach 24 Std.
  • Download Sicherheitsdatenblatt

Yachticon ist ein Unternehmen, das sich auf die Herstellung und den Vertrieb von Produkten für die Pflege, Reinigung und Wartung von Booten und Yachten spezialisiert hat. Die Produkte von Yachticon sind darauf ausgerichtet, die Lebensdauer von Booten zu verlängern und deren Wert zu erhalten, indem sie sie sauber und gut gewartet halten.

  • Reinigungsprodukte: Yachticon bietet eine breite Palette von Reinigungsprodukten an, die speziell für die Anforderungen von Booten und Yachten entwickelt wurden. Dazu gehören Reinigungsmittel für den Rumpf, Deckreiniger, Teakreiniger, Polituren und viele andere Produkte.
  • Entkalkung und Wasserbehandlung: Da Boote oft mit Wasser arbeiten, bietet Yachticon Produkte zur Entkalkung von Wassersystemen und zur Aufbereitung von Wasser an. Dies hilft dabei, Kalkablagerungen zu verhindern und die Lebensdauer der Wassersysteme zu verlängern.
  • Pflege von Kunststoffen und Lacken: Die Produkte von Yachticon sind auch darauf ausgerichtet, Kunststoffe und Lacke zu schützen und zu pflegen. Dazu gehören Produkte wie Kunststoffreiniger und -politur sowie spezielle Lackpflegeprodukte.
  • Technische Produkte: Neben Reinigungs- und Pflegeprodukten bietet Yachticon auch technische Produkte an, die bei der Wartung und Reparatur von Booten und Yachten helfen, wie z.B. Schmierstoffe, Klebstoffe und Dichtstoffe.
  • Umweltfreundlichkeit: Viele Produkte von Yachticon sind umweltfreundlich formuliert und biologisch abbaubar, um die Umweltauswirkungen im marinen Umfeld zu minimieren.
  • Praktische Anwendung: Die Produkte von Yachticon sind in der Regel einfach anzuwenden und wurden für den Einsatz auf Booten und Yachten entwickelt. Sie sind darauf ausgerichtet, den Bedürfnissen von Bootseignern und Seglern gerecht zu werden.

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Inhalt: 0.15 100g (46,33 €* / 1 100g)

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Inhalt: 0.24 100ml (70,63 €* / 1 100ml)

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YACHTICON 2K Epoxikleber Set

YACHTICON 2K Epoxikleber Set

  • Artikelnummer: NL 01561
  • Kategorie: REPARATUR & PFLEGE

Yachticon

Yachticon 2K Epoxi Kleber Spritzen-Set  mit 2x12ml (Härter und Harz)

  • Sofort verfügbar
  • Lieferzeit: 2 - 10 Werktage (DE - Ausland abweichend)

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Yachticon

Yachticon Epoxy Kleber in Spritze 24 ml - 1.0504.01561.00000

ca. 2-4 Tage

inkl. 19% MwSt. zzgl. Versand

  • Beschreibung

Yachticon Epoxy 2-Komponenten-Klebstoff, 2 x 12ml - 1.0504.01561.00000

Transparenter 2-Komponentenkleber für extra feste und dauerhafte Verbindungen für nahezu alle Materialien. Schnellhärtend. Bewirkt dauerelastische, stoßfeste Verbindungen.

Achtung: Für die Verarbeitung des Klebstoffs wird dringend benötigt der Artikel: 1.0807.07572.00000 2-K Mischer

Der YACHTICON Epoxy-Klebstoff 2x12ml ist ein schnellhärtender, zähflüssiger, selbstnivellierender, transparenter Klebstoff, der immer dann dann zum Einsatz kommt, wenn bei der Konstruktion oder der Montage, nur geringe Mengen benötigt werden.

Er ist für zahlreiche Werkstoffe, wie Metalle, Kunststoffe, Faserverbundwerkstoffe, Keramik, Glas, Stein oder Holz geeignet.   Technische Daten:

Verarbeitungstemperatur: +10 bis +30 °C Aushärtungstemperatur: +6 bis +40 °C

Aushärtezeiten (bei 10 ml Ansatz): Topfzeit bei +20 °C : 3 - 4 min. Handfest (35 % Festigkeit): nach 30 min. Mechanisch belastbar (50 % Festigkeit): nach 1 Std. Endhärte (100 % Festigkeit): nach 24 Std.

Yachticon Artikelnummer 1.0504.01561.00000

GEFAHR Gefahrenhinweise:

  • .H315 - Verursacht Hautreizungen.
  • H317 - Kann allergische Hautreaktionen verursachen.
  • H319 - Verursacht schwere Augenreizung.
  • H412 - Schädlich für Wasserorganismen, mit langfristiger Wirkung.
  • H411 - Giftig für Wasserorganismen, mit langfristiger Wirkung.
  • P280 - Schutzhandschuhe tragen. Augenschutz oder Gesichtsschutz tragen.
  • P273 - Freisetzung in die Umwelt vermeiden.
  • P261 - Einatmen von Dampf vermeiden.
  • P264 - Nach Gebrauch gründlich waschen.
  • P362 + P364 - Kontaminierte Kleidung ausziehen und vor erneutem Tragen waschen.
  • P302 + P352 - BEI BERÜHRUNG MIT DER HAUT: Mit viel Wasser waschen.
  • P333 + P313 - Bei Hautreizung oder -ausschlag: Ärztlichen Rat einholen/ärztliche Hilfe hinzuziehen.
  • P305 + P351 + P338 - BEI KONTAKT MIT DEN AUGEN: Einige Minuten lang behutsam mit Wasser ausspülen. Eventuell Vorhandene Kontaktlinsen nach Möglichkeit entfernen. Weiter ausspülen.
  • P337 + P313 - Bei anhaltender Augenreizung: Ärztlichen Rat einholen/ärztliche Hilfe hinzuziehen. Nicht anwendbar.
  • P391 - Verschüttete Mengen aufnehmen
  • P501 - Inhalt und Behälter in Übereinstimmung mit allen lokalen, regionalen, nationalen und internationalen Gesetzen entsorgen.

Zu diesem Produkt empfehlen wir Ihnen:

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Produkte nach Warengruppen Reparieren, kleben, schleifen sonstige Kleber Yachticon Kaltschweißkleber 2 x 12 ml

Yachticon kaltschweißkleber 2 x 12 ml.

Lieferzeit 5 Tage **

  • Frage stellen
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Yachticon Kaltschweisskleber 2 x 12 ml

Epoxi-Kleber f ür schnelle, dauerhafte Reparaturen: klebt und füllt Oberflächen aus Metall, Holz und Hartkunststoff.

  • Extrem hohe Klebekraft
  • mit Stahlpartikeln
  • Temperaturbeständig von -60 bis +145°C
  • Mechanisch zu bearbeiten
  • Widerstandfähig gegen alle Chemikalien.
  • In der praktischen Dosierspritze
Produkt Hinweis Status Preis

Produktdatenblatt

Zu diesem Produkt empfehlen wir

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2 Komponenten Kleber, 24 g

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Epoxy Kleber

YACHTICON

Yachticon Epoxy Kleber

Schnellhärtender, transparenter 2-Komponenten-Kleber mit extrem starkem Klebstoff. Härtet zu einer elastischen und stoßfesten Verbindung mit hoher Zug- und Schlagfestigkeit aus.

Zum Verkleben von fast allen Materialien. Er ist für zahlreiche Werkstoffe, wie Metalle, Kunststoffe, Faserverbundwerkstoffe, Keramik, Glas, Stein oder Holz geeignet.

Inhalt: 24 ml

Gefahrenstoffe-Verordnung CLP (Legende siehe Informationen): GHS05, GHS07, GHS09

Anleitung: Nach dem Mischen können Sie den Klebstoff sofort auftragen und die zu verklebenden Flächen aneinanderfügen. Die Oberflächen müssen dafür staub- und fettfrei sein. Bis zur Aushärtung müssen sie fixiert werden. Die Trockenzeit von 2-Komponenten-Kleber ist nach ca. 10 Minuten erreicht.

Mehr Informationen
ZustandNeu
MarkeYACHTICON
Art. Nr.520262
Lieferzeit2-3 Tage
Füllmenge24 ml

Go Floor Tech

Idaho’s Premier Resinous Flooring Company!

Why choose epoxy flooring, strength and durability.

Epoxy flooring is resistant to damage from long-term use and durable enough for high traffic areas. Fluid-applied systems are abrasion resistant and can be formulated to resist chemical spills, making them a solid choice for industrial spaces.

Ease of Maintenance

Due to its water-resistant properties, most substances or liquid spills can be cleaned up with ease. The seamless nature of fluid-applied flooring also prevents mold and bacteria growth.

Cost Effective

Fluid-applied floors offer inexpensive, yet long-lasting protection, reducing maintenance costs over time. Existing systems can be restored with a refresher coat avoiding removal and disposal costs of other flooring systems.

Extremely Customizable

Resinous flooring can be customized to meet your needs. Epoxy floors are so versatile, they can be used in residential, commercial, or industrial spaces.

No Project Too Big Or Too Small

We pride ourselves on being the leader in seamless epoxy systems. Our  45+ years  of combined experience installing resinous flooring systems sets us apart from the competition! We believe in tailored service; no project is too big or too small!

Whether you are a homeowner or general contractor, our skilled team will deliver exceptional results that meet your schedule and budget. We offer systems designed to meet your specifications.

Our systems are tough enough for commercial spaces and beautiful enough to add a unique and decorative touch to your home garage or kitchen! Whether you are looking for industrial-strength protection or a decorative touch, let us customize a system based on your needs and specifications.

To learn more about the types of resinous flooring systems we offer and their benefits, visit our Services page.

Give us a call or email us to schedule your estimate today!

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Industries we serve.

Floor Tech Inc provides flooring services to a variety of industries!

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Choose Experience

With over 45 years of combined experience installing industrial resinous floor and wall systems in the Boise, Idaho area, Floor Tech stands out from the competition.

Client Testimonials

“Floor Tech, exceeded our expectations. We have had mixed success in our restaurant kitchens with epoxy flooring and have learned that they are great when the installer knows what they are doing. We have used Floor Tech several times to install floors for us and the quality is as good as it gets! We love our new epoxy floor, it should give us years of durable service. From the estimate, to install and everything in between, Pedro and Tana are professionals who know what they are doing.”

Bittercreek Alehouse/Red Feather Lounge

“Floor Tech have been installing epoxy flooring in both my residential and commercial properties for more than a decade. Their workmanship is top-notch and they always stand behind every job. I have confidently recommended them to personal associates in the past, and look forward to working with them on future projects as they arise.”

Westside Body Works

“We recently remodeled our kitchen and expanded our restaurant business and were very, very pleased with the workmanship, professionalism, competitive pricing and quality of work performed by the staff at Floor Tech. The service from day one way was superior.  Ensuring we installed the proper flooring for our business needs was important and the staff did an exceptional job of walking through different options and installing the proper flooring for our specific needs. We highly recommend Floor Tech and their amazing staff and will use them for any future needs we may have.”

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Great Companies We Work With

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Mailing Address: PO Box 45836, Boise, ID 83711

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Your Epoxy Resin and Finishing Guide

Best Mold-Resistant Paint – Finding the Right Mold Prevention Paint

This post may contain affiliate links. We may earn a small commission from purchases made through them, at no additional cost to you. You help to support resin-expert.com

Mold and mildew is a problem that can exist in an old or a new home, growing outdoors or indoors, and if not checked, can grow at a rapid pace. These microorganisms can affect your wellbeing and health as well as cause destruction to your house. Mold only requires three things to grow, which are oxygen, water, and natural organic matter. This problem is something that nobody wants to live with, so in this article, we will be showing you how to eliminate mold and mildew by using mold-killing primers together with mold-prevention paints.  

Table of Contents

What is Mold?

Mold resistant paint vs mold killing paint, best mold resistant paints and mold killing primers, what to look for when purchasing your mold resistant paints, how to fix your mold on walls or ceilings, benefits of using mold paint in the bathroom, frequently asked questions.

Before we continue, we must understand what mold is. Mold is a living fungus that has many textures and looks like a stain, owing to the development of the spores. These spores are microscopic structures that are responsible for mold reproduction and are also around us in the air all the time. However, they are in such low quantities that they do not present any danger of being harmful to us as human beings.

The mold spores only become a problem when they gather in large numbers anywhere in our environment. This is the case when you have a significant growth of mold spores in your home, where there is a lot of moisture present, like in your bathroom, basement, or kitchen.

anti mildew paint

What Causes Mold to Grow?

  • Oxygen: We cannot do much about this aspect, as oxygen is all around all of the time and we have no control over it
  • Natural Organic Matter: This form of matter can feed off of food, paint, wood, fabric, and many more forms of materials
  • Water or Moisture: This is the key to the growth of the mold spores in your home. We may not be able to do much about oxygen or organic matter, but we do have the means and the ability to control the moisture that is often found in our homes

Are Mold Spores Harmful to Our Health?

Most of the mold that is produced in our homes does not present any serious health issues, as they are present in extremely low quantities. However, when they are found in large quantities, they can become a health risk. They can result in respiratory problems, allergies, sneezing, coughing, sore throats, and watery eyes.

Some forms of mold can be very harmful and dangerous for us as human beings as they produce mycotoxins. If you are exposed to a high level of these mycotoxins for a prolonged time, they can cause cancer, neurological issues and even result in death. These types of mycotoxins are not present in all molds and you will not be able to distinguish them from other forms of mold by visual inspection. Therefore, if you have mold anywhere, you must remove it as soon as you can to avoid any health problems.

Where in Our Homes Does Mold Grow?

We have seen that moisture plays an important part in the reproduction of mold, so anywhere where there is a high level of moisture is the perfect place for it to develop. These areas include the bathroom, basement, kitchen, laundry, storage rooms, and cupboards under the sink, greenhouse, and many other damp areas. So, we do suggest that you keep an eye on all of these areas, and as soon as you detect any mold deal with it immediately.

Precautionary Measures to Stop Mold Growth

Seeing that moisture is the main culprit, this where we should start. Eliminating the moisture will ensure that the mold growth is stopped. This means that if you have a water leak, it needs to be repaired first before you consider any other action. Here are some basic and easy methods for you to use in curbing this problem:

  • Control the humidity by running the air-conditioning unit
  • Ensure you run your fan when having a shower
  • Wipe up any damp or wet surfaces as soon as possible
  • Make use of a dehumidifier where the humidity is high
  • Use a (High-efficiency Particulate Air (HEPA) filter in most of your air purifying units
  • The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) recommends that your home’s humidity level should be between 30 to 50% to control the growth of mold properly
  • Paint your walls with mold killing primer and mold resistant paint to prevent the mold from growing

mildew resistant paint

Please understand that mold will not go away just by applying a coat of paint over it, it has to be properly dealt with, which may even mean removing and replacing the drywall. When mold begins to reproduce, it will feed on things like wood and even paint and if not curbed will damage the structure of your house. This is why a coat of paint will not solve the problem.

Mold-Resistant Paints

Mold-resistant paints contain antimicrobial ingredients and high pH levels that are used to prevent the mold from growing and sticking to the paint, making it harder for the mold to spread. It does not kill the mold and it may continue to spread underneath the paint.

Mold-Killing Primer

The mold-killing Primers, on the other hand, not only offers resistance to the mold but kills it. It will kill any mold it comes into contact with but may not be able to remove the entire mold on a porous surface. The mold-killing primers are not designed to seal the mold in. You need to seal the mold stain before you start painting.

We cannot stress enough that you as a homeowner need to tackle the very source of the mold in your bathroom or wherever it manifests. You need to try and stop it from spreading and producing future outbreaks. Even if you apply the paint, the mold will keep coming back if the source is not eliminated first. Mold-resistant paints contain antimicrobial agents that repel harmful bacteria and will keep your home safe from health issues. The correct mildew-proof paint can also help to prevent expensive repairs, and it will also last for many years.

Best Mold Killing Primer: RUST-OLEUM 276049 Mold Killing Primer

If you want to paint over some odor-causing bacteria like fungi, mold, or mildew, then the  RUST-OLEUM Mold Killing Primer is the answer. This primer has an antimicrobial formulation that prevents any fungal organism from growing on the paint film and also covers fungal stains.

This product is a water-based primer and once applied eliminates the old mildew, fungi, bacteria, or mold. This primer can be dry within 30 minutes, but we do recommend that you wait for about an hour before you apply your topcoat. This best mold-killing primer is white, but it will not show through any topcoat that you apply. It also leaves you with a smooth and full cover coating and will cover around 100 to 200 square feet.

RUST-OLEUM Zinsser Mold Killing Primer

  • Kills existing mold, mildew, and odor-causing bacteria
  • Has effective water leak stain-blocking capabilities
  • Binds chalky siding, masonry, metal
  • Prevents odor-causing bacteria, fungi, moss, mold, and mildew from spreading
  • Is a water-based product
  • Can be applied directly to any existing mold or bacteria
  • Has no odor
  • Can be used outdoors or indoors
  • Needs a separate topcoat to be applied

Best Anti Mold Paint: ZINSSER Mold & Mildew-Proof Interior Paint

The Zinsser Mold Prevention Paint, or anti mildew paint, is excellent for mold and mildew that is prone to appear in the damp areas around your house like the bathroom. It is a water-based, low odor paint that is self-priming, and it is not necessary to sand your walls first before applying it.

The paint comes in pastel, off-white, and other light colors and does not require a top coat, which can be cost-saving. It will not peel or flake over time and only requires washing with some soap and water from time to time. The product also carries a lifetime guarantee. This paint is very fast drying and you will be able to use your shower within 24 hours, it is also an excellent option for high traffic areas.

ZINSSER Perma-White Mold & Mildew-Proof Interior Paint

  • High-performance, low-odor, durable paint
  • Provides a complete mold and mildew-proof paint film
  • Washable, scrubbable, stain, and moisture resistant
  • Is a self-priming paint
  • Leaves you with a soft satin finish that is ideal for all your household walls
  • Its antimicrobial agents prevent any mold or mildew to grow for around five years
  • Very fast drying time
  • Can be washed using water and soap
  • Moisture resistant
  • Can result in bubbles appearing on the surface

Best Affordable Option: RUST-OLEUM 5001 Mold and Mildew-Proof Paint

The Rust-Oleum Mold and Mildew Proof Paint is specially designed to repel water, mildew, and mold. It is an oil-based paint with an extremely low odor and has proven to block 34PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of water pressure. This mildew proof paint carries a lifetime guarantee for its antimicrobial properties and a five-year guarantee for its water-resistant claims.

It comes in a bright white color and leaves you with a smooth finish. The paint can be applied to dry as well as wet walls and masonry but is not recommended for floors. The paint will dry within the hour and does not require a primer. The white will not show through any topcoats applied. When applied one gallon of the paint will cover 100 square feet of the surface.

RUST-OLEUM WaterTite Mold/Mildew Paint

  • Mold and mildew-proof waterproofing paint
  • Ultra low odor oil-based formula
  • The paint resists 34 PSI of water pressure
  • Oil-based with a low odor
  • Formulation contains mildewcide
  • Lifetime guarantee
  • Suitable for any high moisture or mildew surface areas
  • Twice as strong as any other waterproofing products
  • Can be fairly expensive

Purchasing paint is always a daunting task, as there are so many types and purposes for each kind. We would like to help you make the job a little easier. It is important to make the correct choice, as the paint is not cheap, and you do not want to buy something and find that it does not suit your particular situation. Here are some of the things you need to consider.

mold paint

Type of Finish

The mold or mildew resistant paint also referred to as anti mildew paint, is supplied in various kinds of finishes. They each have different characteristics that would suit different types of surfaces. Here are some of the options and what surfaces they are most effective on.

Matt (Flat) Finish

With zero to ten percent gloss, it offers no reflection to light and is not suitable in places where there is little natural light. This finish is best suited for covering over patches or cracks. It is not as durable as other finishes and is also not easy to keep clean, so it needs to be applied in areas that are dry and where there is low people traffic. The finish works well on ceilings where nobody touches it as well as in living rooms, dining rooms, and bedrooms, and is not recommended for use in bathrooms and toilets due to its low water resistance.

Eggshell Finish

The eggshell finish also has a low reflection to light, from 10 to 25 percent gloss, and is suitable for wooden furniture or rustic-style walls. It is slightly more durable than the matte finish and also offers more low water resistance but is easier to keep clean.

Satin Finish

This finish has a reflection rate of 20 to 25 percent gloss and is also more durable than the other finishes. It is slightly more durable and also easier to keep clean with a slight gloss finish it offers the same uses as the above two finishes. It is a paint that works well in high traffic areas and is also effective outdoors. However, it fails to hide any imperfections as the matte and eggshell finishes do.

Semi or Low Gloss Finish

This is a more popular mold paint, as it has a reflection rate to the light of 35 to 75 percent gloss and is, therefore, suitable for areas with high or low moisture levels. However, it does not hide the imperfections as the above finishes do. It is a lot more durable and, therefore, suitable for high traffic areas and can be used indoors or outdoors. It is also easy to keep clean and is suitable for use in the bathroom, kitchen, toilet, or any area where there is a high moisture level.

High Gloss Finish

This type of finish has a reflection rate to the light of 70 to 100 percent gloss, is easy to keep clean, and is suitable to be applied anywhere in your home. It is perfect for use on woodwork, trims, cabinets, kitchens, bathrooms, and even in areas outside. Unfortunately, it has zero imperfection hiding qualities and is therefore recommended to be applied by a professional for the best results.

You may not consider this an important aspect, but to paint your bathroom with the correct matching color makes all the difference. When choosing a color for your mold prevention paint, it is important to see how much light enters the room. So, a room that has a lot of light entering it would look great with a cool or warm color, but in a darker room the colors will show up darker. Remember, paint cards never give you the correct shade of how the paint will look on your walls. Rather get a small sample of the paint first and try it out on your wall to see what it looks like.

best mold resistant paint

Types of Mold Resistant Paint

So, you want to paint your bathroom and you know the surfaces have to deal with a lot of moisture. Choosing the correct mold paint is important to a successful outcome when it comes to mold. As you can see so far, there are quite a few aspects you have to consider when purchasing paint, and the type of paint is just as important. You do not want to select paint, pay the price, and do all the work applying, only to find out it does not work. There are two main choices when it comes to paint, but there is only one that is suitable for areas that have to deal with moisture every day.

Enamel Paint

There are two options when buying enamel paint and they are water or oil-based enamel paint. When you are considering buying enamel paint for your bathroom or basement, it is preferable to buy water-based enamel paint. Water-based enamel paints dry quickly when compared to oil-based paints and there are also a lot fewer fumes. It is also easier to clean-up afterward by using water, whereas oil-based enamel paints need to be cleaned using paint thinners.

Acrylic Paint

Some people struggle choosing between acrylic or enamel paint for applying to bathroom walls. Acrylic paint has many advantages, such as it is water-based and easy to clean up, it is also non-toxic, dries quickly, and is exceptionally durable, but it is not a good paint for mold on your bathroom walls.

Once it has dried, it leaves you with a matte finish which can easily attract dirt and dust and is only good for your bathroom ceiling. Acrylic paints are influenced by moisture and that makes them unsuitable for your bathroom walls. We, therefore, conclude that acrylic or water-based paints are not suitable for bathrooms and you should only use enamel paints.

When buying paint, do not always buy the most expensive paint or the paint that looks fancy. There are paints out there that are not too expensive and yet they will give you the best results. Expensive does not always mean the best quality.

A good quality product is the only criteria to consider when purchasing paint. You can always obtain a small sample of the paint to try out before buying. Remember, painting is like a good investment, as it will give you great pleasure for many years if it is the right quality.

VOCs (Volatile Organic Compounds) are gases or fumes that the paint emits, it can have a strong odor and can be harmful to your health. So, we recommend, if possible, that you rather choose a paint that has a low or zero VOC level. This is where it is vitally important to read the manufacturer’s instructions carefully before buying your paint.

The high VOC level paints do not only have a strong odor or harmful fumes, but they may also contain other dangerous substances. Check the instructions on the tin and if it states ‘non-toxic’ or ‘natural’ on the package, it is safe to buy. Make sure the paint does not have any more solvents or additives that can be dangerous.

anti mold paint

If you have discovered signs of mold on your ceilings or walls, it is more than surface mold and probably goes into or even behind the walls. In cases like these, applying paint will not guarantee the mold will be removed, it will be better if you cut out the affected area and replace it. However, if the mold is only on the surface, it is easy to remove completely. We will now be giving you a step-by-step tutorial on the process you should follow.

Protect Yourself and Your Family

With this process remember that safety comes first. Take necessary safeguards like using protective gear like a respirator to prevent breathing in any mycotoxins or spores. You can also wear rubber gloves and protective clothing. Then make sure you use a High-Efficiency Particulate Air (HEPA) filter in your Air Conditioner to protect your home from the spores which tend to escape into your home when disturbed.

Wash the Wall or Ceiling

Take a wet cloth and wipe the surface of the wall or ceiling removing any debris or dirt, as well as most of the mold stain that you can clean off. Make sure the surface is clean so the paint will be able to stick to the surface properly.  Next, allow the area to dry out completely as the paint will not be effective if applied to a wet wall or ceiling.

Please do not try using bleach to remove the mold, as it is a deadly substance and can even make the problem worse. Bleach does not kill the entire mold stain, as it cannot penetrate all of the pores of the walls or ceilings and the mold will return in these areas.

Prime the Wall or Ceiling

Apply the mold killing primer, making sure you get right into all the corners where the wall meets the ceiling and the floor. This will destroy the mold and stop any future growth. If you notice that the primer has not sealed the mold completely, give it another coat as the mold must be completely sealed. Then let the antimicrobial properties do their job. Allow the primer chance to dry for about 24 hours before proceeding any further.

Apply the Paint

After you are sure the primer is properly dry, you can apply the mold resistant paint to your walls or ceilings. Do not use regular paint as it will give any new mold a good surface to adhere to and the mold growth will come back. The mold resistant paint works the same as the best mold killing primer, as antimicrobial properties have been added, giving it the ability to prevent any further mold growth. The paint should dry for about a day before you carry on.

When working in the bathroom or basement where there is a lot of moisture, do not use the room for at least a day or two, even if the paint appears to be dry. If you do and you raise the moisture or humidity levels in the room by taking a shower, it could soften the paint and your whole process could be in jeopardy.

mold prevention paint

Read through these benefits of mold paint, also referred to as anti mold paint. You can then decide if it is the way you want to go in tackling your mold problem. You will soon discover that applying mildew resistant paint is the best way to go.

Antifungal Benefits

  • This anti mold paint can fight the growth of the mold
  • Not only does it fight growth, but prevents it from growing any further
  • It has the property of resisting moisture, which will keep your walls and ceilings dry and mold-free

Functional Benefits

  • With its moisture-resistant property, it keeps the paint from peeling or bubbling
  • Most of the best bathroom paints are normally paint and primer in one product
  • It is not only good for the bathroom but can be used throughout the house especially if you are living in a very humid area
  • Once applied and dry it gives you a washable surface

Plenty of Choices

  • The brands available on the market are increasing all the time, giving you plenty of choices and prices
  • The paint also comes in various sheens like high gloss, satin, and so on, providing you with the best bathroom paint finish
  • The manufacturers give you many different colors to choose from

Can You Paint Over Mold?

The answer to this question is complicated, as it all depends on how bad the mold is, and what type of paint you want to use. It is no good painting over the mold with mold resistant paint, as this will not get rid of the problem. If you are going to use a mold killing primer, then the answer is yes, as it will kill the mold.

Can Mold Killing Primer Kill Black Mold?

There are various kinds of mold and this is the most dangerous of them all. Because of this, you need to be careful when buying paint for black mold. Make sure you buy the brand that is the strongest and is specially designed to remove black mold.

Is it Necessary to Prevent Mold?

Yes, because mold is dangerous and toxic and can be harmful to your health. Furthermore, if you do not take any precautionary measures to prevent the mold, it could cost you a lot of money for repairs.

Where Does Mold Grow?

Mold needs oxygen, moisture, and natural organic matter to grow, so it can grow anywhere where these properties exist like bathrooms, basements, kitchens, and many other areas.

Is There a Paint for Mildew in the Bathroom?

The best paint to use in your bathroom is water-based enamel paint that has a semi-gloss or satin finish .

Mold is a dangerous substance that can affect your health but can also cause damage to your home that could be quite expensive to repair. This is why we try and encourage people to tackle the problem as soon as it is detected. Also, try to follow certain precautionary measures to prevent it from happening. Whatever paint brand you choose, we wish you happy painting and many years of mold-free living.

V. I.   Lenin

Lessons of the moscow uprising.

Published: Proletary , No. 2, August 29, 1906. Published according to the Proletary text. Source: Lenin Collected Works , Progress Publishers, 1965 , Moscow, Volume 11 , pages  171-178 . Translated: Transcription\Markup: R. Cymbala Public Domain: Lenin Internet Archive (2000). You may freely copy, distribute, display and perform this work; as well as make derivative and commercial works. Please credit “Marxists Internet Archive” as your source. • README

The publication of the book Moscow in December 1905 (Moscow, 1906) could not have been more timely. It is an urgent task of the workers’ party to assimilate the lessons of the December uprising. Unfortunately, this book is like a barrel of honey spoilt by a spoonful of tar: most interesting material—despite its incompleteness—and incredibly slovenly, incredibly trite conclusions. We shall deal with these conclusions on another occasion [1] ; at present we shall turn our attention to the burning political question of the day, to the lessons of the Moscow uprising.

The principal forms of the December movement in Moscow were the peaceful strike and demonstrations, and these were the only forms of struggle in which the vast majority of the workers took an active part. Yet, the December action in Moscow vividly demonstrated that the general strike, as an independent and predominant form of struggle, is out of date, that the movement is breaking out of these narrow bounds with elemental and irresistible force and giving rise to the highest form of struggle—an uprising.

In calling the strike, all the revolutionary parties, all the Moscow unions recognised and even intuitively felt that it must inevitably grow into an uprising. On December 6 the Soviet of Workers’ Deputies resolved to “strive to transform the strike into an armed uprising”. As a matter of fact, however, none of the organisations were prepared for this. Even the Joint Council of Volunteer Fighting Squads [2] spoke ( on December 9 !) of an uprising as of something remote, and it is quite evident that it had no hand in or control of   the street fighting that took place. The organisations failed to keep pace with the growth and range of the movement.

The strike was growing into an uprising, primarily as a result of the pressure of the objective conditions created after October. A general strike could no longer take the government unawares: it had already organised the forces of counter-revolution, and they were ready for military action. The whole course of the Russian revolution after October, and the sequence of events in Moscow in the December days, strikingly confirmed one of Marx’s profound propositions: revolution progresses by giving rise to a strong and united counter-revolution, i.e., it compels the enemy to resort to more and more extreme measures of defence and in this way devises ever more powerful means of attack. [3]

December 7 and 8: a peaceful strike, peaceful mass demonstrations. Evening of the 8th: the siege of the Aquarium. [4] The morning of the 9th: the crowd in Strastnaya Square is attacked by the dragoons. Evening: the Fiedler building [5] is raided. Temper rises. The unorganised street crowds, quite spontaneously and hesitatingly, set up the first barricades.

The 10th: artillery fire is opened on the barricades and the crowds in the streets. Barricades are set up more deliberately, and no longer in isolated cases, but on a really mass scale. The whole population is in the streets; all the main centres of the city are covered by a network of barricades. For several days the volunteer fighting units wage a stubborn guerrilla battle against the troops, which exhausts the troops and compels Dubasov [6] to beg for reinforcements. Only on December 15 did the superiority of the government forces become complete, and on December 17 the Semyonovsky Regiment [7] crushed Presnya District, the last stronghold of the uprising.

From a strike and demonstrations to isolated barricades. From isolated barricades to the mass erection of barricades and street fighting against the troops. Over the heads of the organisations, the mass proletarian struggle developed from a strike to an uprising. This is the greatest historic gain the Russian revolution achieved in December 1905; and like all preceding gains it was purchased at the price of enormous sacrifices. The movement was raised from a   general political strike to a higher stage. It compelled the reaction to go to the limit in its resistance, and so brought vastly nearer the moment when the revolution will also go to the limit in applying the means of attack. The reaction cannot go further than the shelling of barricades, buildings and crowds. But the revolution can go very much further than the Moscow volunteer fighting units, it can go very, very much further in breadth and depth. And the revolution has advanced far since December. The base of the revolutionary crisis has become immeasurably broader—the blade must now be sharpened to a keener edge.

The proletariat sensed sooner than its leaders the change in the objective conditions of the struggle and the need for a transition from the strike to an uprising. As is always the case, practice marched ahead of theory. A peaceful strike and demonstrations immediately ceased to satisfy the workers; they asked: What is to be done next? And they demanded more resolute action. The instructions to set up barricades reached the districts exceedingly late, when barricades were already being erected in the centre of the city. The workers set to work in large numbers, but even this did not satisfy them ; they wanted to know: what is to be done next?— they demanded active measures. In December, we, the leaders of the Social-Democratic proletariat, were like a commander-in-chief who has deployed his troops in such an absurd way that most of them took no active part in the battle. The masses of the workers demanded, but failed to receive, instructions for resolute mass action.

Thus, nothing could be more short-sighted than Plekhanov’s view, seized upon by all the opportunists, that the strike was untimely and should not have been started, and that “they should not have taken to arms”. On the contrary, we should have taken to arms more resolutely, energetically and aggressively; we should have explained to the masses that it was impossible to confine things to a peaceful strike and that a fearless and relentless armed fight was necessary. And now we must at last openly and publicly admit that political strikes are inadequate; we must carry on the widest agitation among the masses in favour of an armed uprising and make no attempt to obscure this question by talk about   “preliminary stages”, or to befog it in any way. We would be deceiving both ourselves and the people if we concealed from the masses the necessity of a desperate, bloody war of extermination, as the immediate task of the coming revolutionary action.

Such is the first lesson of the December events. Another lesson concerns the character of the uprising, the methods by which it is conducted, and the conditions which lead to the troops coming over to the side of the people. An extremely biased view on this latter point prevails in the Right wing of our Party. It is alleged that there is no possibility of fighting modern troops; the troops must become revolutionary. Of course, unless the revolution assumes a mass character and affects the troops, there can be no question of serious struggle. That we must work among the troops goes without saying. But we must not imagine that they will come over to our side at one stroke, as a result of persuasion or their own convictions. The Moscow uprising clearly demonstrated how stereotyped and lifeless this view is. As a matter of fact, the wavering of the troops, which is inevitable in every truly popular movement, leads to a real fight for the troops whenever the revolutionary struggle be comes acute. The Moscow uprising was precisely an example of the desperate, frantic struggle for the troops that takes place between the reaction and the revolution. Dubasov himself declared that of the fifteen thousand men of the Moscow garrison, only five thousand were reliable. The government restrained the waverers by the most diverse and desperate measures: they appealed to them, flattered them, bribed them, presented them with watches, money, etc.; they doped them with vodka, they lied to them, threatened them, confined them to barracks and disarmed them, and those who were suspected of being least reliable were removed by treachery and violence. And we must have the courage to confess, openly and unreservedly, that in this respect we lagged be hind the government. We failed to utilise the forces at our disposal for such an active, bold, resourceful and aggressive fight for the wavering troops as that which the government waged and won. We have carried on work in the army and we will redouble our efforts in the future ideologically to “win over” the troops. But we shall prove to be miserable   pedants if we forget that at a time of uprising there must also be a physical struggle for the troops.

In the December days, the Moscow proletariat taught us magnificent lessons in ideologically “winning over” the troops, as, for example, on December 8 in Strastnaya Square, when the crowd surrounded the Cossacks, mingled and fraternised with them, and persuaded them to turn back. Or on December 10, in Presnya District, when two working girls, carrying a red flag in a crowd of 10,000 people, rushed out to meet the Cossacks crying: “Kill us! We will not surrender the flag alive!” And the Cossacks were disconcerted and galloped away, amidst the shouts from the crowd: “Hurrah for the Cossacks!” These examples of courage and heroism should be impressed forever on the mind of the proletariat.

But here are examples of how we lagged behind Dubasov. On December 9, soldiers were marching down Bolshaya Serpukhovskaya Street singing the Marseillaise , on their way to join the insurgents. The workers sent delegates to meet them. Malakhov himself galloped at breakneck speed towards them. The workers were too late, Malakhov reached them first. He delivered a passionate speech, caused the soldiers to waver, surrounded them with dragoons, marched them off to barracks and locked them in. Malakhov reached the soldiers in time and we did not, although within two days 150,000 people had risen at our call, and these could and should have organised the patrolling of the streets. Malakhov surrounded the soldiers with dragoons, whereas we failed to surround the Malakhovs with bomb-throwers. We could and should have done this; and long ago the Social-Democratic press (the old Iskra [8] ) pointed out that ruthless extermination of civil and military chiefs was our duty during an uprising. What took place in Bolshaya Serpukhovskaya Street was apparently repeated in its main features in front of the Nesvizhskiye Barracks and the Krutitskiye Barracks, and also when the workers attempted to “withdraw” the Ekaterinoslav Regiment, and when delegates were sent to the sappers in Alexandrov, and when the Rostov artillery on its way to Moscow was turned back, and when the sappers were disarmed in Kolomna, and so on. During the uprising we proved unequal to our task in the fight for the wavering troops.

The December events confirmed another of Marx’s profound propositions, which the opportunists have forgotten, namely, that insurrection is an art and that the principal rule of this art is the waging of a desperately bold and irrevocably determined offensive . [9] We have not sufficiently assimilated this truth. We ourselves have not sufficiently learned, nor have we taught the masses, this art, this rule to attack at all costs. We must make up for this omission with all our energy. It is not enough to take sides on the question of political slogans; it is also necessary to take sides on the question of an armed uprising. Those who are opposed to it, those who do not prepare for it, must be ruthlessly dismissed from the ranks of the supporters of the revolution, sent packing to its enemies, to the traitors or cowards; for the day is approaching when the force of events and the conditions of the struggle will compel us to distinguish between enemies and friends according to this principle. It is not passivity that we should preach, not mere “waiting” until the troops “come over”. No! We must proclaim from the house tops the need for a bold offensive and armed attack, the necessity at such times of exterminating the persons in command of the enemy, and of a most energetic fight for the wavering troops.

The third great lesson taught by Moscow concerns the tactics and organisation of the forces for an uprising. Military tactics depend on the level of military technique. This plain truth Engels demonstrated and brought home to all Marxists. [10] Military technique today is not what it was in the middle of the nineteenth century. It would be folly to contend against artillery in crowds and defend barricades with revolvers. Kautsky was right when he wrote that it is high time now, after Moscow, to review Engels’s conclusions, and that Moscow had inaugurated “new barricade tactics ”. [11] These tactics are the tactics of guerrilla warfare. The organisation required for such tactics is that of mobile and exceedingly small units, units of ten, three or even two persons. We often meet Social-Democrats now who scoff whenever units of five or three are mentioned. But scoffing is only a cheap way of ignoring the new question of tactics and organisation raised by street fighting under the conditions imposed by modern military technique. Study carefully the story   of the Moscow uprising, gentlemen, and you will understand what connection exists between “units of five” and the question of “new barricade tactics”.

Moscow advanced these tactics, but failed to develop them far enough, to apply them to any considerable extent, to a really mass extent. There were too few volunteer fighting squads, the slogan of bold attack was not issued to the masses of the workers and they did not apply it; the guerrilla detachments were too uniform in character, their arms and methods were inadequate, their ability to lead the crowd was almost undeveloped. We must make up for all this and we shall do so by learning from the experience of Moscow, by spreading this experience among the masses and by stimulating their creative efforts to develop it still further. And the guerrilla warfare and mass terror that have been taking place throughout Russia practically without a break since December, will undoubtedly help the masses to learn the correct tactics of an uprising. Social-Democracy must recognise this mass terror and incorporate it into its tactics, organising and controlling it of course, subordinating it to the interests and conditions of the working-class movement and the general revolutionary struggle, while eliminating and ruthlessly lopping off the “hooligan” perversion of this guerrilla warfare which was so splendidly and ruthlessly dealt with by our Moscow comrades during the uprising and by the Letts during the days of the famous Lettish republics. [12]

There have been new advances in military technique in the very recent period. The Japanese War produced the hand grenade. The small-arms factories have placed automatic rifles on the market. Both these weapons are already being successfully used in the Russian revolution, but to a degree that is far from adequate. We can and must take advantage of improvements in technique, teach the workers’ detachments to make bombs in large quantities, help them and our fighting squads to obtain supplies of explosives, fuses and automatic rifles. If the mass of the workers takes part in uprisings in the towns, if mass attacks are launched on the enemy, if a determined and skilful fight is waged for the troops, who after the Duma, after Sveaborg and Kronstadt are wavering more than ever—and if we ensure participation   of the rural areas in the general struggle—victory will be ours in the next all-Russian armed uprising.

Let us, then, develop our work more extensively and set our tasks more boldly, while mastering the lessons of the great days of the Russian revolution. The basis of our work is a correct estimate of class interests and of the requirements of the nation’s development at the present juncture. We are rallying, and shall continue to rally, an increasing section of the proletariat, the peasantry and the army under the slogan of overthrowing the tsarist regime and convening a constituent assembly by a revolutionary government. As hitherto, the basis and chief content of our work is to develop the political understanding of the masses. But let us not forget that, in addition to this general, constant and fundamental task, times like the present in Russia impose other, particular and special tasks. Let us not become pedants and philistines, let us not evade these special tasks of the moment, these special tasks of the given forms of struggle, by meaningless references to our permanent duties, which remain unchanged at all times and in all circumstances.

Let us remember that a great mass struggle is approaching. It will be an armed uprising. It must, as far as possible, be simultaneous. The masses must know that they are entering upon an armed, bloody and desperate struggle. Contempt for death must become widespread among them and will ensure victory. The onslaught on the enemy must be pressed with the greatest vigour; attack, not defence, must be the slogan of the masses; the ruthless extermination of the enemy will be their task; the organisation of the struggle will become mobile and flexible; the wavering elements among the troops will be drawn into active participation. And in this momentous struggle, the party of the class-conscious proletariat must discharge its duty to the full.

[1] See pp. 189-93 of this volume.— Ed .

[2] The Joint Council of Volunteer Fighting Squads was formed in Moscow at the end of October 1905. It was created at the outset for the practical struggle against the Black Hundreds but it was kept in existence during the December uprising. It included representatives of the volunteer squads of the Moscow Committee of the R.S.D.L.P., the Moscow group of Social-Democrats, the Moscow committee of the Socialist-Revolutionary Party, and also of the volunteer squads bearing the names “Free District”, “University”, “Typographical” and “Caucasian”. The S.-R.-Menshevik majority   of the Joint Council was responsible for disorganising its activity; during the days of the December armed uprising it lagged behind the revolutionary events and was incapable of acting as the operational general staff of the uprising.

[3] Lenin cites the proposition put forward by Marx in his Class Struggles in France, 1848 to 1860 (see Marx and Engels, Selected Works , Vol. 1, Moscow, 1958, p. 139).

[4] During the evening of December 8 (21), 1905, soldiers and police cordoned off the “Aquarium” garden (at the Sadovo-Triumfalnaya Square) where a crowded meeting was being held in the theatre. Thanks to the selfless efforts of the workers’ volunteer squads guarding the meeting, bloodshed was avoided; those who possessed arms were enabled to escape through a broken fence, but the other participants in the meeting who went out through the gate were searched, beaten up and in many cases arrested.

[5] The Fiedler school building (at Chistiye Prudy) was regularly used for party meetings. During the evening of December 9 (22), 1905, when a meeting was being held there, it was surrounded by troops. The participants in the meeting, mostly members of volunteer squads, refused to surrender and barricaded themselves in the building. The troops opened fire using artillery and machine-guns. During the destruction of the building more than 30 persons were killed or wounded; 120 were arrested.

[6] Dubasov, F. V. (1845-1912)—Governor-General of Moscow in 1905-06, who directed the suppression of the armed uprising of the Moscow workers in December 1905.

[7] Semenovtsy —soldiers of the Semenovsky Guards Regiment who were sent from St. Petersburg to Moscow in December 1905 to suppress the uprising of the Moscow workers.

[8] Iskra ( The Spark )—the first all-Russian illegal Marxist revolutionary newspaper. It was founded by Lenin in 1900, and it played a decisive part in building the Marxist revolutionary party of the Russian working class. After the Party, at the Second Congress of the R.S.D.L.P. in 1903, had split into a revolutionary (Bolshevik) wing and an opportunist (Menshevik) wing, Iskra passed into the hands of the Mensheviks and became known as the “ new ” Iskra in contrast to Lenin’s old Iskra .

[9] This refers to Engels’s Revolution and Counter-Revolution in Germany, 1848 (New York Daily Tribune , 18.IX. 1852) which was published in 1851-52 as a series of articles in the newspaper New York Daily Tribune over the signature of Marx, who originally intended to write them but, being preoccupied with his economic researches, handed over the task to Engels. In writing the articles Engels   constantly consulted Marx, who also read them through, before they were sent to the press. Not until 1913, as a result of the publication of the correspondence between Marx and Engels, did it become known that the work had been written by Engels.

[10] Engels expounded this proposition on a number of occasions in his works, notably in Anti-Dühring .

[11] Lenin deals with this in more detail in his work “The Russian Revolution and the Tasks of the Proletariat” (see present edition, Vol. 10, pp. 141-42).

[12] In December 1905 various Lettish towns were seized by armed detachments of insurgent workers, agricultural labourers and peasants. Guerrilla war against the tsarist troops began. In January 1906 the uprising in Latvia was suppressed by punitive expeditions under tsarist generals.

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