yacht anchor weight

Free US Shipping on Most Orders Over $99 * - Learn More »

ORDERS SHIP NEXT BUSINESS DAY*

60 days return period - Learn more

• Apparel - Board Shorts
• Apparel - Footwear
• Apparel - Hats
• Apparel - Hoodies & Longsleeves
• Apparel - Lake Names
• Apparel - Rash Guards & Sun Shirts
• Apparel - Sunglasses & Goggles
• Apparel - Tanks & Tees
• Aquaglide Challenge Track
• Aquaglide Lakefront Components
• Aquaglide Lakefront Decks
• Aquaglide Lakefront Lounges
• Aquaglide Lakefront Mini Parks
• Aquaglide Lakefront Trampolines and Bouncers
• Aquaglide Water Park Accessories
• Aquapark Boarding Features
• Aquapark Climbing Walls
• Aquapark Junctions
• Aquapark Rockers
• Aquapark Signature Pieces
• Aquapark Track Components
• Aquapark Track Corners
• Aquapark Trampoline Attachments
• Aquapark Water Trampolines and Bouncers
• Aquapark Yacht
• Bart's Branded Merchandise
• Bart's Key Float
• Boat - Anchor Rope
• Boat - Boat Anchor
• Boat - Boat Fenders
• Boat - Boat Ladders
• Boat - Boat Lights & Flags
• Boat - Boat Mirrors
• Boat - Boat Pylons & Booms
• Boat - Buoys
• Boat - Maintenance & Cleaners
• Boat - Pontoon Accessories
• Boat - Propellers
• Boat - PWC Accessories
• Boat - Safety Equipment
• Boat - Trailering Accessories
• Dock - Dock Accessories & Storage
• Dock - Dock Bumpers
• Dock - Dock Ladders
• Dock - Dock Lights
• Dock - Mooring Lines
• Floats - Cabana
• Floats and Parks - Boat Slide
• Floats and Parks - Inflatable Dock & Swim Platform
• Floats and Parks - Inflators & Deflators
• Floats and Parks - Pool Floats, Lounges, & Rafts
• Floats and Parks - Water Mat
• Floats and Parks - Water Trampoline
• Hydrofoil - Foil Surf Board
• Hydrofoil - Ski Foil
• Hydrofoil - Wake Foil
• Kayak - Inflatable Kayak
• Kayak - Kayak Accessories
• Kayak - Kayak Paddles
• Kneeboard Accessories
• Life Jackets - Infant Life Jackets
• Life Jackets - Kid's Life Jackets
• Life Jackets - Men's Life Jackets
• Life Jackets - Non-CGA Comp Vests
• Life Jackets - Paddle Life Jackets
• Life Jackets - Pet Life Jackets
• Life Jackets - Women's Life Jackets
• Mini Water Trampoline Parks
• Multipurpose - Kayak & SUP Paddles
• RAVE Obstacle Course Components
• RAVE Standalone Components
• RAVE Water Park Accessories
• RAVE Water Park Systems
• RAVE Water Trampoline Attachments
• Rave Water Trampolines and Bouncers
• Ski - Barefoot Skiing
• Ski - Gloves
• Ski - Kneeboards & Multipurpose Boards
• Ski - Ski Bags
• Ski - Ski Bindings
• Ski - Ski Combos
• Ski - Ski Hardware
• Ski - Ski Ropes & Handles
• Ski - Ski Trainers
• Ski - Slalom Water Ski
• Ski - Slalom Water Ski Packages
• Ski - Trick & Jump
• Suits - Drysuits
• Suits - Wetsuit Accessories
• Suits - Wetsuits
• SUP - Paddleboards
• SUP - SUP Accessories
• SUP - SUP Paddles
• Towables - Boat Tubes
• Towables - Inflators
• Towables - Sea Sleds
• Towables - Tow Rope for Tubing
• Towables - Tube Repair Kits
• Turbo Chute
• Wake - Ballasts & Pumps
• Wake - Helmets
• Wake - Kid's Wakeboards
• Wake - Kid's Wakesurf Board
• Wake - Packaged Wakeboards
• Wake - Wake Boots
• Wake - Wake Cases
• Wake - Wake Fins & Hardware
• Wake - Wake Ropes & Handles
• Wake - Wake Shaper
• Wake - Wake Skate
• Wake - Wakeboard
• Wake - Wakesurf Board
• Water Trampoline Slides & Attachments

SUMMER KICK-OFF CLEARANCE SALE

Save up to 55% off popular gear!

How to Pick a Boat Anchor: The Guide to Types, Sizes & Weights

October 20, 2023

Lakes can get choppy, and river currents can drag you along when you'd rather stay put. Having the right anchor on your boat is crucial, especially if you're busy staging for a wakeboard or ski ride .

But what type and size of anchor is best for your setup?

Types of Boat Anchors

Let's look at the most popular types of boat anchors, and look at some charts to figure out what size and weight anchor is right for you.

Fluke Anchors

Also known as a Danforth anchor, the fluke anchor is favored by lake and river boat owners for its lightweight design and excellent holding power in soft bottoms.

Fluke anchors have a rotating bar that connects the anchor to the line. Their forward-heavy profile allows the flukes to drive straight down into sand or mud. As line is laid out, the bar swivels into a horizontal position, providing good scope.

• Boat Size: 30 feet or less
• Best For: Lakes, rivers, mud and sand
• Bad For: Rocks, debris, coral, strong currents

Plow Anchors

Also called a delta anchor, the plow anchor is one of the most popular anchors on the boat market. It's simple and effective, capable of providing reliable mooring in all water conditions and most beds.

Plow anchors dig into the surface below and they provide high holding power. They set quickly, which makes them an excellent choice when strong currents and winds could otherwise quickly move your boat.

But plow anchors' large, flat fins can get stuck in debris and large rocks, so it's best to stick to softer bottoms.

• Boat Size: 70 feet or less
• Best For: Sand, mud, grass bottoms, strong winds
• Bad For: Rocky bottoms

Claw Anchors

Also known as a Bruce anchor, the claw anchor is similar to a plow anchor: It sets quickly and digs into soft bottoms, providing good holding power against currents and wind -- though not as well as a plow.

Because claw anchors use smaller pins, they're better suited in gravel and rock, affording a lower risk of catching and getting stuck where a plow anchor might get hung up.

Digger Anchors

The digger anchor excels at providing high holding power in gravel and rocky bottoms, even with strong currents and high wind. It uses a rod that partially rotates, while limiting the angle of the anchor line's scope.

As current and wind pull on the boat, the rod's limited angle pulls on the anchor's claws, pushing them further into the bottom. The digger's thin, long claws work great in virtually all bottom, including gravel and small rocks -- just avoid large debris, as the limited angle of the anchor rod prevents it from being pulled back out of a snag effectively.

• Boat Size: 40 feet or less
• Best For: Sand, mud, grass, gravel, strong winds
• Bad For: Bottoms with large debris

Navy Anchors

The classic, heavy, big navy anchor excels at providing high holding power in all waters and conditions. Its size and shape make it suitable for rocky bottoms and debris fields, as it has little risk of getting snagged.

The only problem with a navy anchor is that its benefits can become problematic for smaller vessels: Because navy anchors are large and heavy, they can be difficult to stow, and they add plenty of weight to the hull.

• Boat Size: 20+ feet
• Best For: All bottoms, currents, and weather
• Bad For: Small, light boats

Mushroom Anchors

The mushroom anchor is made for small vessels in relatively calm waters with soft bottoms. It relies on suction and sinking into sand, dirt, and mud to provide holding power. These anchors are typically found on light, electric motor-powered boats, kayaks, and dingy boats.

• Boat Size: 12 feet or less
• Best For: Soft bottoms free of rock
• Bad For: Large boats, heavy currents, rocky bottoms

River Anchors

Like the mushroom anchor, the river anchor is also intended for small vessels in lakes and rivers -- but with one exception: The river anchor works well in rocky bottoms and beds filled with debris. The wide, flat flukes work best when they can grab hold of objects on the floor. River anchors work well enough in soft bottoms, albeit with less holding power than a mushroom.

• Best For: rocky bottoms and debris fields
• Bad For: Large boats, heavy currents

Choosing The right Size Anchor

When selecting a boat anchor, it's important to consider the following factors:

The size and weight of your boat will determine the size and weight of the anchor you need. As a general rule, the heavier the boat, the larger and heavier the anchor should be.

Water and Weather

The type of weather and currents you encounter will influence your anchor choice. Different anchors perform better in different conditions, so it's important to choose one that suits your boating environment.

Conditions of Water Bed

The floor your anchor rests upon can vary wildly. Some lakes and rivers have rocky bottoms filled with debris, while others have soft silt or sand. Picking the wrong setup could mean you wind up drifting, or worse, cutting line because your anchor got stuck at the bottom.

Anchor Weight vs. Boat Size Chart

The chart above is a general guideline for selecting the appropriate anchor weight for your boat. Conditions on the water, and the weight of your boat -- regardless of its size -- could mean you need a heavier anchor.

Anchor Chain vs. Rope

When it comes to anchoring, you'd think chain is far superior to rope. But chain really only provides two advantages: It adds holding power, helping to keep your boat moored in one spot in rough water and strong currents, and it resists chafing -- it won't suffer damage from being dragged along debris and rocks.

Chain is heavy, though, so it adds weight to your craft when not being used. This isn't a concern on large, sea-going vessels. But you probably don't want that added weight when you're cruising around on the river or lake, especially when towing a wakeboard, tube, or skis.

Chain also rusts, even with regular maintenance, and it's expensive. Nowadays, synthetic anchor rope is tough and abrasion-resistant, and it withstands water and sunlight incredibly well. It's also lightweight relative to its strength, and it takes up much less space than chain.

The most effective setup combines a bit of chain near the anchor, with rope making up the rest of the line. Just a few feet of chain is needed to ensure your anchor is properly seated. This bit of chain also improves the scope of your line. "Scope?" You, say? Read on.

It's All About Scope

Rope alone will provide as much holding power as chain, so long as your scope is correct. Scope measures the ratio of the length of deployed rope (or chain) to the height from the ocean, lake, or riverbed to the anchor point on the boat.

The minimum effective scope you need to properly moor your vessel with any anchor and line is 5:1. That means if the depth from your boat's topside to the underwater floor is 5 feet, you need 25 feet of rope laid out below. This affords about 75% of the maximum holding power of your anchor and line.

A scope of 10:1, laid perfectly flat on the bed below, provides 100% holding power. Using the same 5 foot depth, you'd need 50 feet of anchor rope or chain laid out for max holding power.

Need a new anchor setup? Check out our boat anchors and anchor lines !

Previous Next

SHOP AT BART'S WATER SPORTS:

Hyperlite Men's Indy Life Jacket

Straightline

StraightLine LE Team Handle w/ 8-Section Heavy Duty Mainline

Hyperlite Men's Domain Life Jacket

Polyform Slalom Buoy

O'Brien Watersports

O'Brien Men's Flex V-Back Life Jacket

O'Neill Wetsuits

O'Neill Men's Assault Life Jacket

Universal Adult Waterski Binding Heel Assembly

Your cart is empty

Subtotal:$0.00 USD

Experts on Staff

Customer service 7 days a week

Fast Shipping

Usually ships by the next business day

America's Favorite Water Sports Store

Price-match guarantee

Our promise to you

Choose options

Please verify you are a human

Access to this page has been denied because we believe you are using automation tools to browse the website.

This may happen as a result of the following:

• Javascript is disabled or blocked by an extension (ad blockers for example)
• Your browser does not support cookies

Please make sure that Javascript and cookies are enabled on your browser and that you are not blocking them from loading.

Reference ID: 6931ebfb-2f5d-11ef-99c8-352ca959c8c2

Powered by PerimeterX , Inc.

Anchoring & Mooring

With so much investment literally riding on your anchor, your boat's anchoring system is no place to cut corners. your choice of anchor depends on the size and type of your boat, and the weather and anchoring conditions you generally encounter..

Boats with heavy displacements or superstructures that present a great deal of wind resistance need heavier gear. The same is true of cruising yachts that brave a wide variety of conditions and may sometimes have to anchor in open waters.

Although not required by Federal Law, it is recommended you carry one anchor of sufficient size and strength to hold your boat for an extended period, like overnight--or in an emergency situation, such as if you run out of gas. When you are thinking or buying an anchor - BIGGER IS BETTER.

Also, there is safety in numbers. No anchor will work for you in every situation, so if you have space carry two anchors--preferably of different types.Many people choose to carry a small anchor, or "lunch hook", and a larger working or storm anchor. The lunch hook is for use in calm weather and when the crew is monitoring the anchor. Working and storm anchors are useful at times when the crew is asleep or ashore, and during heavy weather, when winds are 30 miles an hour and over.

The general name for all of the equipment you need to anchor your boat is "ground tackle". This includes an anchor, chain, line and connecting elements. The anchor line, including chain, is called the rode.

Playing Hooky

Just as boats come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, so do anchors. Choosing an anchor is easy, choosing the right one for your boat can be very difficult. Your first task in choosing an anchor is to have an understanding of three things:

• Your Boat - Your boats' size, weight and design characteristics affect what kind of anchor you will need to use. For instance, a 30 foot 10,000 pound houseboat needs a larger anchor than a 30 foot 6000 pound speedboat.
• Where You're Going - Where you plan to anchor often dictates what type of anchor you should use. Is the bottom rock, or is it soft mud? If you are not familiar with the area, ask around or look at a local chart.
• Local Conditions - Anchoring in a calm protected cove can be quite different than anchoring offshore or on a large open bay. And don't forget the weather--high winds, tides and waves can all make anchoring difficult, if not impossible.

Anchors are rated by "holding power"--which is the ability of an anchor to hold a given weight. Keep in mind that a 10,000 pound boat may only require an anchor with a holding power of a few hundred pounds on a calm day, but may need 1,000 pounds of holding power or more on a stormy day.

Anchor Types

There are several types of anchors and you should choose a style based on the bottom characteristics in the areas you will anchor most often. Then, choose a size based on the size and weight of your boat.

Lightweight or "Danforth" Anchors

Lightweight type anchor with two long pivoting "flukes"; designed to reduce clogging with mud and grass; range from 2.5 pounds to nearly 200 pounds, and are generally made of cast galvanized metal, though some models are machined from a light-weight aluminum composite. When dropped, flukes dig the anchor into the bottom and the anchor buries itself and part of the anchor line.

Commonly used on small recreational boats, as they are relatively light weight for the amount of holding power they provide, especially in comparison to other anchors. Best in hard sand or mud, where flukes can easily dig into the bottom.

Not recommended for very soft or loose mud, which can ball up around the flukes; or on rocky bottoms where the flukes cannot penetrate. Also not recommended for grassy bottoms, which the flukes tend to slip off.

Kedge or Navy Anchors

A more traditional style anchor with arks, flukes and stock. Good in heavy grass, weeds, rocky bottoms or hard sand where one arm can penetrate a crevice. Not good in mud or loose sand, where flukes can't dig in.

Functions differently than previous anchors as it is not a burying anchor; one arm digs into bottom and one lies exposed. Generally only used by very large ships, as it relies on weight for most of the holding power; not really suitable for recreational use other than for a lunch hook.

Grapnels Anchors

Very inexpensive, but not much holding power. Some models are made of bent re-bar, others are made of galvanized metal and have folding flukes. Good for recovering items on the bottom, or for wreck reef anchoring. Commonly used on very small boats such as canoes or jon boats.

Plow or "CQR/DELTA" Anchors

The plow styles' good holding power over a wide variety of bottom types makes it a top choice of cruising boaters. Has either a fixed (Delta style) or a pivoting (CQR) shank.

When dropped in the water, a plow lands on its side, then when pulled, buries itself. Its shape allows it to reset fairly easily should the wind or tide shift the boat position.

Great in sand and on rocky bottoms, weeds and grass. Does not do well in soft bottoms. Generally made of galvanized metal, though they are available in stainless steel.

Claw or "BRUCE" Anchors

Unique shape of the claw allows a 360 degree turn without breaking out. Has similar performance to plow anchors,at a lower weight.

Sets just like a plow, but curved flukes make it easier for a claw to right itself no matter how it lands on the bottom, or how much the boat gets swung around.

Mushroom Anchors

Mushroom anchors get their name from, as you might imagine, their rounded, mushroom shape. Mushroom anchors are used extensively for moorings, and can weigh several thousand pounds for this use.

The shape works best in soft bottoms, where it can create a suction that can be difficult to break. Decent for very small boats to use as a lunch hook, but not practical for larger boats. Both Buoys and Beacons may have lights attached, and may have a sound making device such as a gong, bell or horn. Both Buoys and Beacons may be called "marks".

Line and Gear

Depending upon the size and type of your boat, and where you anchor--your choices for an anchor line are either an all-rope anchor rode, a combination of rope and chain, or all chain.

Nylon Line in Three-Strand Twist

Three-strand line can absorb shock and the constant tugging associated with anchoring much better than braided line or chain alone. Chain may also be used, especially in anchorages that are primarily rock or coral, which may cut a nylon line. A length of chain should be used between the anchor and a longer length of line. The chain will add weight to set your anchor without making it too heavy to lift manually, while serving to exert a horizontal pull on the anchor to set it.

Nylon Three-Strand line is the leading choice for use as an anchoring line. Lines generally come in a "soft" or "medium" lie. Soft lines are generally softer to the touch, and loosely woven. These aren't as good as medium or hard lines for anchoring, as they are more prone to unraveling and chafing. Tightly wrapped lines are the best choice for anchoring.

Lines that have been treated with a wax-like coating are available. These lines help the line resist water/salt absorption. To help keep your lines in good shape, clean them from time to time by soaking them in soapy water. Never use bleach, as it can break down the line.

Chain may be used instead of nylon line for anchoring. Chain has several benefits, including added weight, chafe and wear resistance, and high strength. It also lowers the angle of pull on the anchor, which helps it to set more firn\mly into the bottom.

Chain is generally found made of galvanized steel, though you can find stainless steel and vinyl coated chain, which is designed to be non-marring to your deck.

Chain comes in three general varieties: "Proof Coil" is the most common, and is adequate for most marine uses. "BBB" ("Triple B" or "3B") chain has thicker, shorter links than proof chain. BBB is slightly stronger than proof chain, and is generally used for windlasses. Finally, "Hi-Test" chain is made of hardened steel, and is stronger and lighter than proof coil. Hi-test chain is favored by those wishing to avoid carrying too much weight.

Combination anchor-rodes consist of both chain and nylon line. You may buy a combination rode, or you may make one yourself. Generally, it is recommended to have either one foot of chain for each foot of boat length, or to have one pound of chain for each pound of anchor length. Which ever method you choose, having more chain than necessary is never a bad idea.

As the saying goes, a chain is only as strong as its' weakest link...Make sure that your anchor and line are attached to each other with adequate gear. Some lines come with plastic thimbles or eyes--but metal, either marine-grade stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized steel, is best. Swivels and shackles should be inspected regularly for wear, and to ensure that the connections are tight and functional.

Scope: Length of the anchor line/ height of the deck cleat to the sea bed.

Before leaving the dock, you will need to determine how much anchor line, or "rode", you will need. It is recommended that you use a scope of 7:1, meaning that for every foot of water depth, you should use 7 feet of rode.

For example, to anchor in 10 feet of water, you would pay out 70 feet of line. Measure the scope as the ratio of the length of the anchor rode to the height of the bow above the bottom. If you're using a lightweight anchor on a small boat in good weather conditions, a shorter scope of 5:1 is sufficient and safe. A prudent boater always has extra line and chain on hand, just in case.

Minimum Working Rode Sizes

Suggested holding sizes assume fair holding ground, scope of at least 5:1 to 10:1, and moderate shelter from high seas.

Boats that operate generally in shallow waters, as on the East Coast of the United States, may get by with shorter rode lengths. As the wind picks up, deploying additional line will help maintain position, as will tossing out an extra anchor.

Setting Anchor

Anchoring can be accomplished quickly and easily by following a few simple steps.

• Check your chart for bottom characteristics and to determine that you are anchoring in a safe and allowable place. If there are rocks, shoals, reefs or other boats to consider, give them all as wide a berth as possible. Remember that other boats will often have different requirements for anchor rode length--larger or taller boats frequently need a great deal of rode. Also, keep in mind a possible swing of 360 degrees about the anchor with wind shifts or current changes.
• If your crew is not already wearing PFDs, have them put one on before going forward to set or retrieve an anchor or mooring.
• Secure the bitter end of the anchor line to a bow cleat. Make sure the line is ready to run free once tossed overboard.
• Head into the wind or current. Reduce speed and reverse the engine. When the boat starts to make a slight sternway through the water, lower - do not throw - the anchor.
• After you've let about a third of your line out, tug the anchor line to see how firmly it's set, and then continue to release the rode.
• Once you let out an appropriate amount of scope, make sure the line is properly tied off on the bow cleat.
• Even if anchoring only in designated anchoring areas, it is always prudent to have the appropriate signal such as an all-around white light on to notify other boats that you are anchored at night. During the day you must display a ball shape which is sized according to the size of your boat.

Staying Put

It's a good idea to take two immediate bearings. Select two items, one off each beam, that form a natural range and watch for any changes in their relationship. You can check these later to determine if you're boat is swinging as expected or if you're dragging anchor.

Picking Up a Mooring

One of the best ways to avoid the hassles of anchoring is to chose a cove or harbor with moorings available for your use. Mooring balls are identified by their white spherical or can shape, and having a blue horizontal band. It may have a number designation, a VHF contact # or name on it. You will typically have to pay a small fee to the harbor master to use a public mooring, but you can count on it being far cheaper than paying for dockage for the night.

Public moorings are professionally maintained and will use a large anchor or helix screw fixture to maintain position. The harbor master will let you know if the weight or length of your boat is too big for that particular mooring. Although moorings are typically more secure than anchors, moorings can and do periodically give way. For this reason, and for the obvious courtesy reasons, you should never pick up and use a mooring that does not belong to you.

Common Anchoring Mistakes

• Letting the anchor go with out securing the line to the boat.
• Letting the anchor go with your foot wrapped in the anchor line.
• Poor communication between the captain and person on the foredeck.
• Approach a mooring from downwind. This will give you better maneuverability as you go to secure your boat to the ball.
• Go slow, so as not to disturb those already moored.
• After putting on PFDs, send a crew member to the bow with a boat hook to grab the eye or the base of the mooring ball.
• Once the mooring ball is at the bow--slow, stop or gently reverse engines to halt forward motion. Use your crew to relay distance information if it is difficult for the skipper to see where the mooring ball is in relation to the boat.
• Loop the mooring line over one or both of your bow cleats. Pay attention to the possibility of chafing. You may want to use your own line to attach to the mooring ball if the one provided is dirty.
• Some moorings may have an antenna like device called 'whip.' This is simply an extension of the ball so you don't have to reach as far to haul in the mooring line.
• Once secure, let the boat drift back and be sure that you are clear of those who have moored or anchored around you. There is no need to 'back down' on a mooring ball.
• Leaving a mooring is easy--just motor or pull up gently to the ball and release the mooring line from your boat. You can then either drift back or maneuver forward to clear yourself of the ball and the associated ground tackle.

Finally, never ever anchor a small boat by the stern! Your engine, and the bulk of the boat's weight rest here. Stern anchoring is likely to result in swamping and flooding.

• New Sailboats
• Sailboats 21-30ft
• Sailboats 31-35ft
• Sailboats 36-40ft
• Sailboats Over 40ft
• Sailboats Under 21feet
• used_sailboats
• Apps and Computer Programs
• Communications
• Fishfinders
• Handheld Electronics
• Plotters MFDS Rradar
• Wind, Speed & Depth Instruments
• Anchoring Mooring
• Running Rigging
• Sails Canvas
• Standing Rigging
• Diesel Engines
• Off Grid Energy
• Cleaning Waxing
• DIY Projects
• Repair, Tools & Materials
• Spare Parts
• Tools & Gadgets
• Cabin Comfort
• Ventilation
• Footwear Apparel
• Foul Weather Gear
• Mailport & PS Advisor
• Inside Practical Sailor Blog
• Activate My Web Access
• Reset Password
• Customer Service

• Free Newsletter

Pearson 37 and 37-2 Used Boat Review

DIY Survey Checklist for Used-Boat Buying

Valiant 40: Reshaping the Cruising Hull

Bristol Channel Cutter 28: Circumnavigator’s Choice

Best Crimpers and Strippers for Fixing Marine Electrical Connectors

Thinking Through a Solar Power Installation

How Does the Gulf Stream Influence our Weather?

Can You Run a Marine Air-Conditioner on Battery Power?

Practical Sailor Classic: The Load on Your Rode

Anchor Rodes for Smaller Sailboats

Ground Tackle Inspection Tips

Shoe Goo II Excels for Quick Sail Repairs

Spring Season Engine Start-Up for Winterized Engines

Solutions for a Stinky Holding Tank

Diesel Performance Additives

Hidden Maintenance Problems: Part 3 – Gremlins in the Electrics

Seepage or Flooding? How To Keep Water Out of the Boat

Alcohol Stoves— Swan Song or Rebirth?

Living Aboard with an Alcohol Stove

Choosing the Right Fuel for Your Alcohol Stove

Preparing Yourself for Solo Sailing

How to Select Crew for a Passage or Delivery

Preparing A Boat to Sail Solo

Re-sealing the Seams on Waterproof Fabrics

Chafe Protection for Dock Lines

Waxing and Polishing Your Boat

Reducing Engine Room Noise

Tricks and Tips to Forming Do-it-yourself Rigging Terminals

Marine Toilet Maintenance Tips

• Sails, Rigging & Deck Gear

Selecting the Right Anchor Size

Holding power increases with weight, but how much is hard to calculate..

Over the years Practical Sailor has conducted dozens of anchor tests, and like many publications, we’ve repeated the common guidance that cruising sailors should buy an anchor that is at least one size larger than what the maker recommends for your size vessel.

During the last two decades, however, the tremendous holding power of some newer generation anchors have caused us to re-think this guidance. Are we paying more for an anchor, rode, and the requisite anchor handling equipment than we need? How accurate are the makers size recommendations? How much insurance are we really getting for the price of a bigger anchor?

For this report we took a range of modern, sometimes called new generation anchors, and their predecessors and averaged their weight vs. vessel size recommendations (see accompanying table). Much to our surprise, the weight recommendations for the new designs, Rocna, Excel, Supreme, etc. are very similar to the weight recommendation for the older, traditional models, CQR, Delta, Bruce etc. In both cases, the recommendation for a 35-foot yacht is approximately a 30-pound anchor. The exceptions are aluminum anchors from Fortress and Spade.

Most of the new generation anchors have been tested to international standards established by the RINA (Registro Italian Naval) or some other internationally recognized society. Rocna, Fortress, Supreme, Excel, Spade have been found to meet standards of Super High Holding Power, SHHP. The older anchors, CQR, Bruce, Delta are rated as High Holding Power. The difference between the two categories is that the SHHP have been tested and found to have a hold, comparing anchors of the same weight, that is two times that of the HHP anchors.

So if we’re getting double the holding power, does that mean we can use an anchor that is half the weight? Not necessarily. Nor can you expect another doubling of holding power by doubling the weight of an SHHP anchor.

Despite the sales pitch that the new anchors have greater holding capacity pound-for-pound, the anchor makers are suggesting that you replace your old CQR with the same weight new anchor. It appears that manufacturers are, in effect, doubling the historic safety factor. And for a cautious sailor, there is nothing wrong with this.

However, consider the advice that is often repeated on internet forums, or the local scuttlebutt, that cruising sailors should increase one size over the makers recommendation. So instead of a 33-pound Rocna for your Tartan 37, you buy a 44-pound Rocna-now with potentially three times the safety factor of an old school anchor. Apart from the added significant expense, this obsession with upsizing – more anchor, more chain, bigger windlass-can also add potentially unnecessary weight and concentrate it in the bow.

So what do we really get with that bigger anchor? There is an idea that if you double weight of an anchor you will double holding power. Except with extra-large commercial anchors and some specific tests, we’ve found no data to support this.

No independent test, as far as we know, has taken a series of different sized anchors of the same design and tested them in the same seabed for ultimate holding capacity. Tests have been conducted on commercial oil rig anchors like the Bruce, and the best scaling is about 90 percent-double weight and you increase hold by 1.8 times.

The only recreational anchor that we are aware of that has undergone some testing to determine the relationship between weight and holding is Fortress (in mud only, see Anchoring in Squishy Bottoms, PS February 2015 ). An analysis of all their tests on a complete range of their anchor sizes suggest that if you triple weight you increase hold by slightly more than two times, approximately an 80 percent efficiency as size is scaled up.

Ultimately, this means that when someone tells you they can calculate the increase in holding power as you move up in size, be careful not to read too much into this conclusion. For one, the ratio used deserves close scrutiny. Surely, the bigger anchor will provide better holding-but how much? This hard to quantify, even with computer modeling. And no matter how accurate your calculation-a ratio based on performance in one type of bottom might not apply in another.

One reason you can’t claim that doubling the weight doubles the holding is that as anchors increase in size, the stress on the construction increases. To compensate for the increase in stress, the steel thicknesses must be increased – and more steel weighs more. So in an anchor whose holding power relies greatly on surface area and how it is distributed, adding more weight doesn’t necessarily result in a commensurate increase in surface area that provides holding power.

And as we’ve shown in our past tests-anchor dimensions (especially the fluke area) and shape can play a significant role in performance. It might be possible to double weight and double the holding power without beefing up the steel, but the resulting anchor would be less strong relative to its designed holding power.

Weaker construction might not matter on an over-engineered anchor. However, we have seen how the use of inferior materials has resulted in anchors that bend more easily at designed loads (see Anchor Tests: Bending More Shanks, PS May 2013 ).

Anchor Angles

In past reports, we’ve discussed in detail how anchor design can impact holding, especially with the new generation anchors ( see An Inquiry into Anchor Angles, PS February 2017 ). As you consider which design best suits your needs, here are some things to consider.

Fluke/shank angle. The fluke/shank angle is the angle between fluke and shank. It is one of the determining factors in how quickly and deeply an anchor sets. For a simple design with flat plate fluke and a straight shank (like a Guardian) the angle is a line down the center of the shank to the hinge and then along the fluke. In shanks with curves or angles, the first line is usually drawn from the shackle pin to the point there the shank meets the fluke.

For three-dimensional flukes (as found in most new generation anchors), you have to estimate where the top of the fluke plate lies. The ballast chamber or shank support that might protrude from the sole, such as with Spade, or Vulcan anchor should not be used to determine shank/fluke angle.

It is the fluke top surface that is important. In previous tests we reported that in thin mud an anchor with a fluke angle of around 45 degrees will outperform an identical anchor with its fluke angle set at 30 degrees. But a firmer sand seabed is entirely different, and research demonstrates the ideal fluke angle for a typical sand bottom is around 30 degrees (see Small Anchor Reset Tests, PS February 2013 ).

Fluke-seabed angle. This is the angle of the fluke to the seabed during the phases of anchoring-most importantly, during the initial penetration into the bottom, and when the anchor is set.

Penetration angle. When an anchor is aligned ready to set, or engage with the seabed (it might need tension on the rode to achieve this) then the fluke will usually be at an angle of 60-70 degrees to the seabed. Commonly the anchor is on its side.

Setting angle. Once the anchor starts to penetrate it will self align and the fluke plate tend quickly toward its setting angle, usually of about 30 degrees. It is coincidence that the fluke/shank angle and setting angle are similar though most anchors tend to show the similarity of the two angles. Center of gravity can have a great effect on penetration angle. This is why many new generation anchors, like the Ultra, have weighted flukes. Having a 30-degree fluke/shank angle is irrelevant if the center of gravity is in the wrong place.

Shank length

If you imagine a Fortress with a shank/fluke angle of 30 degrees but a shank three times longer than its original design, then you can visualize how the anchor will probably simply slide along the seabed when tensioned. The throat opening will be too small. Similarly if you chop the shank in half, the toe of the anchor will simply scrape along the seabed. In both case the anchor will find difficulty in engaging because the penetration angle will be wrong.

Are the makers of new generation anchors over-stating the need for bigger anchors, thus requiring boat owners to pay much more than they might need in order to be secure at anchor? Possibly. Would going with a larger-than-required anchor actually hurt your anchors performance? Unlikely. As is often the case with our anchor reports, it is hard to come with some firm answers regarding both of these questions. Anchor studies are fraught with variables.

In our view, it is no crime to go up one size over the manufacturers recommended size, if your boat and crew can handle it. The anchor may require more reverse throttle to set, but ultimately, it should provide the holding you require. Likewise, it is reasonable to assume that the anchor makers guidance for sizing is reasonable. However, if an online advocate starts telling you that youll get x times more holding power by going up one size, ask him for the data.

Extra weight in an anchor is your insurance policy. Yes, you can almost always get more security with the heavier anchor, but whether or not you will every need that extra holding power is not conclusive. In our view, conservative sizing is added insurance-but until the data is in, we remain skeptical of any absolute claims that attempt to quantify the advantages of more weight when choosing an anchor.

Based on average recommendations from leading anchor makers, the weight savings of upgrading to a second generation anchor doesn’t really pay off until you get into the larger size vessels.

In an anchor whose holding power relies greatly on surface area and how it is distributed, adding more weight doesn’t necessarily result in a commensurate increase in surface area that provides holding power. To compensate for the higher loads, the steel must be thicker, resulting in different surface area/weight ratios.

• As fluke size increases, so do the loads. But if the construction isn’t beefed up to handle the loads, the result is failure. Flat plate steel in this Danforth fluke sheered.
• The shaft of an Excel anchor bent during veer testing.
• The flat flukes of the Bugel anchor makes it easy to calculate the shank-fluke angle.
• Here a Rocna anchor is in the initial setting angle, still capsized on one side, with not enough of its toe is dug into the soil to dig in. Bottom shape and center of gravity (some designs are weighted to control CG), helps to determine this angle.
• This Manson Ray anchor has rolled upright and assumed the angle of penetration that will help the anchor to bury into the bottom.

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

Leave a reply cancel reply.

Log in to leave a comment

Latest Videos

Sailboat vs Fishing Boat – Rules of the Road

Catalina 445: What You Should Know | Boat Review

How to Wax and Polish Your Boat

Beneteau 46.1: What You Should Know | Boat Tour

• Privacy Policy
• Do Not Sell My Personal Information
• Online Account Activation
• Privacy Manager

ANCHOR CALCULATOR

Calculate the safest anchor for your boat.

It is very important that you have the right anchor for your boat to keep you and your family safe. Our anchor calculator will recommend the best anchor for your boat based on the type of boat, its size and weight and the sort of boating activity you are wanting to do. Select your preferred measurement scale (metric or imperial) and then follow the path. Click on the boxes that best describe your situation, select the length and weight values and then press the red Calculate Your Anchor button. This anchor calculator is for boats up to 28m/90ft. For enquiries above this boat length please contact us directly. 

SELECT MEASUREMENT SCALE

New generation or traditional anchor.

New Generation Anchors

The New Generation anchor range use materials and designs suited to the latest boat designs.

Traditional Anchors

The Traditional anchor range uses classic designs like the Plough (CQR) or Ray (Bruce) Anchor suited to older boat styles.

WHAT ANCHOR TYPE?

Plough Anchor

BOAT SPECIFICATIONS

BOAT LENGTH (Metric)

Boat weight (metric), boat length (imperial), boat weight (imperial), your recommended anchors, we recommend the manson supreme anchor, however if your bow sprit conflicts with the supreme’s dimensions, we recommend the manson boss anchor. learn more about the anchor dimensions on the product pages..

Supreme Anchor (SHHP)

From $ 134.99 – $ 4,999.99

Chain Recommendation

You can rely on supreme safety with our best-selling anchor – the Manson Supreme. This anchor ensures your precious family gets the good night’s sleep they deserve. Aptly named the Manson Supreme, this anchor sets and holds immediately. It is considered the world’s safest anchor with innovative features that lead the industry. It is self-launching and self-righting, using a rollbar to make setting your anchor a worry-free process. The Manson Supreme Anchor will turn or quicky reset and hold with the wind and tide so you can sit back and enjoy your surroundings. Available in galvanized steel or exquisitely polished stainless steel.

Boss Anchor

From $ 179.99 – $ 9,499.99

The Manson Boss is a truly multi-purpose anchor. It was designed to have the same instant setting and high-holding power of the Manson Supreme, but to also fit the bow-rollers on motorboats. This new generation anchor operates in all seabeds, the sliding and fixed shank design ensures easy setting and retrieving, regardless of the conditions and your surroundings.

The Manson Boss Anchor gives you and your family the reassurance they need to sleep well while at anchor in unfamiliar places. This is a safe and reliable choice, used by thousands of boaters around the world. The Manson Boss really does perform like the Boss! Available in galvanized steel, black painted steel or exquisitely polished stainless steel.

Ray Anchor (HHP)

The Manson Ray Anchor is a very fast setting anchor, most suited for quick deployment and ‘no fuss’ anchoring.

The fast setting nature makes the Manson Ray ideal for use in crowded or narrow anchorages, particularly on sand or muddy seabeds.

The Manson Ray Anchor tends to be used more frequently on Super –  Sailing  – Yachts as a more traditional yacht type of anchor and it is then deployed via cassettes in the bow.

It is Lloyd’s Register Type Approved as an HHP (High Holding Power) anchor and available approved sizes from 5kg – 600kg, and unapproved up to 3425kg.

Plough Anchor (HHP)

Engineered to provide a strong and secure hold, 90% of all cruising boats use plough (CQR-style) anchors. The Manson Plough Anchor has hinged shanks, improving the scope of movement of the chain and has a weighted tip delivering secure reliable holding in sand, weeds and mud.

The Manson Plough Anchor is a proven yachting favourite and traditionally tends to be used on Super –  Sailing  – Yachts, deployed via an anchor deployment arm. Increasingly we are seeing designers select the Manson Plough Anchor in conjunction with the patent pending Subplough System from sister company Bowmaster. See here for more on this  underwater anchor deployment solution. 

The Manson Plough Anchor is Lloyd’s Register Type Approved as a HHP (High Holding Power) anchor and is available in approved sizes from 5kg – 1000kg, and unapproved from 1000kg – 5000kg.

This anchor calculator is a guide only.  It is not intended to replace or supercede any class or maritime sizing recommendations.  Lloyd’s Register rules apply to the Manson Supreme, Manson Plough and Manson Ray Anchors.  For any queries, please contact [email protected]

• Anchors Unveiled: A Comprehensive Guide to Choosing the Right Anchor for Your Boat

When it comes to boating, ensuring your vessel is equipped with the right gear is paramount. Among the crucial equipment, anchors play a vital role in providing stability and security. In this comprehensive guide, we'll delve into the intricacies of anchor weight, types, and how to choose the right one for your boat.

Understanding Anchor Weight

Selecting the appropriate anchor weight is not a one-size-fits-all task. The weight of your anchor should be proportional to your boat's size and the conditions you might encounter on the water. A lightweight anchor may not hold in rough waters, while an excessively heavy one can be challenging to handle.

Types of Anchors: A Deep Dive

Before delving into anchor weight, it's essential to understand the different types of anchors available. The Hunter Delta 25 anchor, known for its reliability, will be a focal point. Each anchor type has its strengths, and choosing the right one can make a significant difference in your boating experience. 

Determining the Right Size Anchor

The right anchor size is crucial for effective anchoring. Consider factors such as boat length, windage, and the type of bottom you'll be anchoring on. To simplify this process, refer to a delta anchor sizing chart, which provides valuable insights into choosing the correct size for your boat.

Boat Anchor Sizing Guide

Boats come in various sizes, and each requires a specific anchor size for optimal performance. We'll provide a comprehensive guide on selecting the right anchor size, including detailed recommendations for a 19ft boat and a 21ft boat.

Read more useful sailing tips:

Skippered boats: how to choose a boat, skippered boats: how to pack for a yachting holiday, boat rental with skipper: everyone can go to sea, skippered boats: myths about sailing, sail from lefkada for 14 days. where to, what not to miss when visiting lefkada, skippered boats: step-by-step boat rental, where and why to sail from lefkas marina, don’t panic: handling maritime emergencies, hunter delta: a closer look.

The Hunter Delta 25 anchor is a popular choice among boaters. We'll explore its features, advantages, and considerations when looking to purchase this reliable anchor. Understanding the intricacies of a specific anchor can greatly influence your decision-making process.

Best Anchor for Your Boat Size

Not all anchors are created equal, and the best anchor for your boat depends on its size. We'll highlight recommendations for different boat sizes, focusing on the best anchor for a 19ft boat and a 20ft boat, ensuring you make an informed decision.

Navigating Anchor Size Charts

Anchor size charts can be intimidating, but they are valuable tools for choosing the right anchor. We'll break down how to read and interpret anchor size charts effectively, providing practical tips for selecting the perfect anchor for your boating needs.

Ensuring Adequate Anchor Weight for Safety

Safety should always be a top priority when boating, and the anchor's weight plays a crucial role. We'll emphasize the significance of selecting the right anchor weight to ensure your boat remains secure in various conditions. Additionally, we'll discuss common mistakes to avoid in anchor weight selection.

Read our top notch articles on topics such as sailing, sailing tips and destinations in our  Magazine.

How to Buy an Anchor: A Step-by-Step Guide

Buying an anchor involves more than just picking one off the shelf. We'll provide a step-by-step guide on how to buy an anchor, covering essential considerations such as price, quality, and the specific needs of your boat. Make an informed purchase to enhance your boating experience. 

Determine Your Boat's Size:

• Measure the length and weight of your boat to establish the appropriate anchor size.

Consider Your Boating Conditions:

• Evaluate the typical weather and water conditions where you'll be boating to choose an anchor suitable for those environments.

Understand Bottom Types:

• Different anchors are designed for various seabed types (sand, mud, rock). Know the predominant bottom type in your boating area.

Research Anchor Types:

• Explore different anchor designs (e.g., plow, fluke, claw) and understand their strengths and weaknesses.

Consult Anchor Size Charts:

• Refer to anchor size charts provided by manufacturers to match your boat size with the recommended anchor weight.

Evaluate Anchor Material and Construction:

• Consider the materials used in anchor construction (e.g., stainless steel, galvanized steel) and their resistance to corrosion.

Check for Additional Features:

• Look for features like swivels or adjustable shanks that enhance the anchor's performance and ease of use.

Read Customer Reviews:

• Check online reviews and testimonials to learn about the experiences of other boaters with specific anchor models.

Compare Prices:

• Compare prices across different sellers and platforms to ensure you're getting a competitive deal.

Verify Warranty and Return Policies:

• Confirm the warranty period and understand the return policy in case the anchor doesn't meet your expectations.

Ensure Compatibility with Your Boat:

• Double-check that the chosen anchor is compatible with your boat's design and anchoring setup.

Purchase from Reputable Retailers:

• Buy from reputable retailers or directly from the manufacturer to ensure the authenticity and quality of the anchor.

Inspect the Anchor Upon Delivery:

• Thoroughly inspect the anchor upon delivery to identify any defects or damage. Report issues promptly.

Learn Proper Anchoring Techniques:

• Familiarize yourself with proper anchoring techniques to maximize the effectiveness of your new anchor.

Keep the Manual Handy:

• Store the anchor's manual on your boat for quick reference on maintenance and usage tips.

By following these steps, you'll be equipped with the knowledge needed to make a well-informed decision when purchasing an anchor for your boat.

Understanding Anchor Types for Different Boats

Different boats have different requirements when it comes to anchors. We'll explore the importance of choosing the right anchor type for your boat, taking into account factors such as boat size, usage, and environmental conditions. Tailoring your anchor choice ensures optimal performance.

CQR Anchor: Features and Pricing

For those seeking a reliable anchor, the CQR anchor is worth considering. We'll delve into its features and discuss pricing considerations. Understanding the features of specific anchors aids in making an educated decision based on your boating requirements.

In the vast sea of anchor options, finding the right one for your boat is essential. From understanding anchor weight to exploring specific anchor types like the Hunter Delta 25, this guide aims to empower you with the knowledge needed to make an informed decision. Prioritize safety, tailor your choice to your boat's specifications, and enjoy worry-free anchoring on your next boating adventure.

So what are you waiting for? Take a look at our  range of charter boats  and head to some of our favourite  sailing  destinations .

Boat Anchor Selection Guide: Choose the Perfect Type & Size

When you buy a used boat, odds are it will come with an anchor, and with a new boat you'll usually get to choose an anchor for it. What if that old anchor you have on your new-to-you boat doesn't hold so well, or needs replacing? In any of those scenarios, you'll need to pick out a new anchor for your boat. There are more types of anchors that you dreamed of, and they're all different in how they perform in different anchoring conditions. And your anchor will need to be sized for your boat.

The type of anchor you choose depends on the predominant bottom types where you plan to sail, and what fits on your boat. Once you know the type, you get the perfect type and size of anchor from the length and weight of your boat using the manufacturers' recommendations.

On this page:

How does an anchor work, loads and forces on an anchor, anchor construction materials, most common anchor styles, how do i choose an anchor, what's in your anchor locker, picking the right anchor ground tackle.

Instead of getting overwhelmed, if you do a little research upfront on what you might need you can narrow down your choices and get the best anchor for your boat and where you use it.

While it may seem obvious at first glance, there are many mistaken assumptions about just how your anchor holds your boat to the bottom. It's important to understand just what your anchor does when it's holding your boat, so you know why you may choose one anchor or another.

All anchors dig into the bottom. Some have aggressive, plow-like forms or scoops which burrow in quickly, others have various hooks, spikes or protrusions designed to catch and hook as soon as the anchor is pulled.

Angle of attack provides holding power

The pulling force on an anchor is along the shank, and for an anchor to offer maximum holding power, it's crucial that the bulk of the load from the boat's pull is applied in this direction. If the pull is from the side, the anchor may break out. If the pull is from above the anchor, it definitely will.

Part of the role of the chain in your rode is to keep the rode flat on the bottom to make sure the loads from the boat are horizontal and along the direction of the shank.

Scope & chain provide angle and drag

Your anchor rode and how much scope you let out is as important to your choice of anchor to how well you hold. Chain has its own resistance to being dragged and adds extra holding, and as noted above, it also keeps the forces on the anchor from pulling it out.

The longer the scope, the better the angle of pull on the anchor. With a length of chain, the extra weight adds more holding the bottom, and a rope/chain rode gives extra shock absorption in the catenary of the rode.

You can learn more about how to select and install the right anchor rode by reading our detailed article here.

Orientation of anchors

Most modern anchors have a definite top and bottom, and will not set lying on their backs. These anchors flip and orient their blades down if they land the wrong way or break out. Many anchor designs dig in quickly with the anchor lying on its side, and may have roll bars or weights to keep them in a suitable setting orientation.

Some anchors, like grapnel anchors or the Bulwagga, had a radial symmetry and no true up or down. These don't need to reorient or right themselves. They will catch the bottom no matter how they lie, though not all the blades and hooks will help hold the anchor.

Good anchors will reset unnoticably

All anchors can break out and may get rolled as a boat swings at anchor and wind strength increases. An anchor's ability to reset is important. You don't want to drag long before your anchor sets again. With a good anchor, you won't even be aware it has broken out and reset, as it will happen quickly without your boat seeming to drag at all.

An anchor doesn't care at all about what kind of boat is on the other end of the rode, what it cares about is how much drag force is on the rode. A heavy boat in a light breeze may pull as hard on an anchor as a lighter boat in more wind. It's the force that counts, and you size your anchor by how much force you can expect to land on that anchor and rode.

Boat weight partially determines drag force

Your boat's weight is one of the two sources of drag force on your anchor. Heavier boats will pull more than light boats in the same condition. Many anchor vendors give tables of boat weight ranges which match to the best anchor size.

In wind, boat length is more important

Picture two boats with the same weight - a low-slung classic yacht with little freeboard , but a heavy full keel, and a more modern design with higher freeboard, less ballast, and about ten more feet of length. In windless conditions, they'll pull about the same against the anchor.

But in twenty knots of breeze, the longer boat with more freeboard will have a lot more pull. Here, the boat's length overrides the weight. A doubling of wind speed quadruples the load on the anchor, so this effect becomes more pronounced the higher the wind.

Anchors are made from three primary materials - galvanized steel , stainless steel , and aluminum .

Galvanized steel anchors are cheap

Galvanized anchors are the most common, as they are the least expensive, offer excellent weight, and are very durable and rugged. They can rust over time as the galvanization wears off, but provide the best cost to holding of all anchor construction material. You can re-galvanize an anchor at considerably less cost than replacing the anchor, if the original protection wears off.

Stainless steel anchors are expensive

Stainless steel anchors have similar strength to galvanized steel anchors combined with corrosion resistance. They look beautiful on the bow, but they are quite expensive at 3-5 times the cost of a similar galvanized anchor, and you'll want to pair them with a more expensive stainless chain. While they won't rust, they can get scratched and lose their shiny finish if you use them often. And there is a risk of crevice corrosion if stainless steel sits underwater too long.

Aluminum anchors don't rely on weight

Aluminum anchors are lightweight and strong, but may not have the holding power of heavier anchors of a similar size, and aluminum is not as strong as steel. They are popular with racers, and also for secondary anchors, because they are lighter and easier to handle. Aluminum anchors rely on bottom penetration to set, not weight.

The dozens of anchors available break down into a few general classes. Trying to organize all the choices by function helps you narrow the field to what may work best for you.

Claw anchor

Claw anchors, like the Bruce, have claw style blades to dig in and hold well for most conditions. They may struggle to dig in with a hard mud or clay bottom, but will reset well on other bottoms.

Plow anchor

Plow anchors are generally fixed, like the Delta, or have a hinge like the CQR. The fixed plows do well in everything but rocks, while the hinged CQR doesn't hold quite as well but responds better to the movement of the rode since there is a swivel.

Plow with Roll Bars

Modern designs like the Rocna and Spade incorporate a plow form on the blades, coupled with a roll bar. These have fantastic holding power and set easily. They don't fit as well on some older boats, and are more expensive.

Fluke anchor

The fluke anchors are great in mud and sand, but don't do as well with bottoms they can't penetrate or grass. The Danforth (and its clones) are popular with smaller boats, and the lightweight aluminum Fortress is a favorite with weight conscious ravers.

Fisherman's anchor

The traditional crossbar and hooks anchor is good for rocks. Some break down for storage, which makes them a popular choice for a storm anchor.

Grapnel anchor

Grapnels are fine anchors for dinghies, kayaks, PWCs and other small, light craft but don't do well with higher loads and larger boats.

Mushroom anchor

Small mushroom anchors can hold a small craft like a dinghy or kayak. Many permanent moorings are large mushroom anchors, where they can dig deep into the bottom. But they are not suitable for big boat use.

Other alternatives

This list isn't exhaustive. There is constant innovation in anchor technology, from the Bulwagga to various box anchors, which don't even look much like anchors as we think of them. All have their strengths and weaknesses, so research carefully and try to find someone with real-world experiences with them.

Remember, there is no "right" or perfect anchor, so look at a lot of options to see what fits your boating style.

The basic decisions you have to make about your anchor are the style, size, and material of your anchor. While we can't get into every type of anchor on the market and how it works for every boat, we can give you an overview of the decisions you must make.

What fits on your boat?

If you're adding a new anchor to an existing boat, you may have some natural limitations on what anchors you may choose.

With a bow roller sized for a plow or a nice Danforth bracket installed already, maybe those features limit your choices. You may switch between a CQR and a Delta with that anchor roller, but there's a good chance you can't fit a Rocna's roll bar up there without bending something. You could probably switch a Fortress out for a Danforth in that bracket, but you can not hang a plow from it.

Most anchor manufacturers give dimensional drawings of their products on their websites, so measure and even mock up something to see if it will go. On my boat, I shoved a Manson Supreme where a CQR went, but not without permanently bending a retaining pin. And I mocked the whole thing up in cardboard ahead of time to be sure.

Where will you anchor?

The range of where boat affects what to have in your bow locker. If you're a Chesapeake Bay sailor and you don't leave the bay, something that holds well in mud is a must and may be all you need. But a world cruiser needs something more effective across a range of bottom types.

Give careful thought to the places you’ll want to spend the night on your boat, especially the bottom types you'll find. In the end, you'll likely have more than one anchor, and you want to cover most of the holding types you'll encounter.

Choose your materials based on budget and style

This is a matter of budget and style, mostly. As a cruiser who spends almost every night at anchor, I can't see the sense of spending a fortune on a pretty anchor that spends most of its life hidden. But for some, adding that high gloss show to the bow of a Bristol condition yacht everyone can see most of the time, the aesthetic choice may make more sense.

When I raced, I had a Fortress because it met the requirements to have an anchor, but I ended up spending a couple of nights on it. It was easy to move around, but for vacations I still dragged the 35 lb. CQR out of the shed and put it in the bow locker.

Size your anchor based on boat length and weight

Sizing your anchor is most people's biggest worry. Remember, it's better to have too much anchor instead of not enough. You want to sleep soundly and leave your boat without worrying. If you're hauling your anchor up without a windlass, the extra pounds matter a lot more, but it's better to have extra.

It's not as hard as you think to size your anchor, because every single manufacturer publishes a guide to how to select the right product for your boat. Most of them have tables for boat length and boat weight, and we talked up above about how a boat's weight and windage affect anchor loads.

To size your anchor, follow these steps.

• Search the "by length" table for the length of your boat, and note the recommended size.
• Search for the weight of your boat, and note the recommended size.
• The correct anchor size for your boat is the larger of those two recommendations.

If they give a single number in the table, choose the next number above yours. If they use ranges and your boat is on the edge of a weight or length range, there's no harm in moving to the next size band. Don't move down bands; you don't want to undersize.

For an example, look at this sizing table for Spade Anchors. We've going to pick an anchor for a boat which is 53' long and weighs about 54,000 lbs.

Source: Anchor sizing chart on Spade Anchor USA

You'll see a boat length of 53' puts us at 59ft. and a 55 pound galvanized anchor. But by vessel weight, for 54,000 lbs., the recommended weight is 99 pounds.

So the larger of the two is 99 lbs., so that is the proper weight for this boat.

Most boats should have more than one anchor, so you will go through this process several times. You may need multiple anchors for the different bottom conditions you may come across. If you foul an anchor or lose one, a spare anchor and rode can literally be a lifesaver.

Other reasons for multiple anchors include a lighter anchor for a "lunch hook," though with an electric windlass this isn't much of a concern on bigger boats. You may want a smaller stern anchor in case you need to anchor where you don't want to swing, or it's important to keep your bow facing a direction other than into the wind. And finally, if you plan to cruise far from your home port, you may want a storm anchor.

Any of the anchor types we've discussed will fill many of the above roles, and you can use these tools to evaluate your boat and your plans to make the best choice for each job.

The next step is to select the right ground tackle. Ground tackle consists of everything that connects the anchor to your boat and is used to control the angle of attack, scope, and drag by adding or removing weight to the anchor.

I've written a detailed guide to help you to understand ground tackle in depth , which will help you select the perfect parts yourself.

Leave a comment

You may also like, how to measure your anchor chain size (two ways).

Buying new anchor your chain for your boat can be more complex than it sounds. You can't just walk into a marine store and order "A hundred meters of your best." …

How to Select and Install the Right Anchor Rode

How To Mark & Measure Anchor Chain & Rode (3 Ways)

Guide to Anchoring Ground Tackle - parts, checks, deployment

How Much Anchor Chain Should You Let Out When Anchoring?

Free Shipping *

Premium Quality

No-Hassle Returns

[email protected]

844-524-7627

Anchor Selection Guide: How to Choose the Best Boat Anchor Type

There are a number of boat anchors available, constructed of different materials, and often with confusing names. This article will discuss the most popular types of boat anchors,  how to choose the best anchor for your boat, the most common material types, and also give an overview of different naming conventions.

Quick Anchor Style Summary

Video: Choosing an Anchor Type

Our video below introduces many of the anchor types discussed here, although the article discusses a few more anchor types and provides some useful links.

Quick Summary Boat Anchor Recommendation

For most boaters , a Bruce or Delta is the best balance between price and performance. Both perform similarly and are similarly priced (Narrowly, the Bruce/Claw is our favorite of the three). If you've used a Danforth in the past , and you have had luck with it, choose a Danforth. If you've never used one before and if your setup allows it, choose a Bruce or Delta instead. If you're a blue-water cruiser , choose a CQR, or consider one of the new generation of anchors discussed below.

Boat Anchor Names: Trademarked Names and Generic Names

A special note is needed on the naming of anchors. Many anchors have a trademarked name, such as a   Bruce   or CQR, and a generic name like Claw or Plow. This is the same as how Xerox is a trademarked name for photocopier and how Aspirin is a trademarked name for pain killer. Trademarks effectively never expire whereas design patents expire after approximately 20-25 years. Therefore, manufacturers are free to clone an anchor design that has an expired patent but cannot use the trademarked name.

Bruce™ Claw Anchor

The   Bruce, or Claw, remains one of the most popular anchors among recreational boaters in North America. This is our anchor of choice as well.

The   Bruce   was developed in the 70s by the Bruce Anchor Group. Once their patent expired in the early 2000s, they stopped production of this anchor but many imitations have come along since.

The  Bruce  is an excellent all-purpose anchor as it performs well in most sea bottoms including mud, sand, rock, and coral. It has a harder time penetrating harder surfaces, such as clay, and bottoms with heavy grass. The three-claw design sets more easily than other anchors. It also resets easily if it is ever broken loose. On the downside, the Bruce has a lower holding power per pound than other anchors, meaning you’ll usually need a larger anchor than say the  Delta/Wing .

Pros:  Performs well in most conditions. Sets easily. Cons:  Awkward one piece design. Lower holding power per pound. Bottoms: Performs well in most bottoms; Struggles in hard bottoms such as clay, or heavy grass.

CQR™/Plow   &   Delta™/Wing Anchor

Both the CQR/Plow and the Delta/Wing are a plow style anchor. The most significant difference between these anchors is the fact that the CQR has a hinged design whereas the Delta is a one piece design.

The   CQR   is one of the oldest styles, dating back to the 30s and to this day, it remains one of the most popular anchors among blue water cruisers. Despite this, it has relatively low holding power and it consistently struggles in independent tests. It’s also rare to find a CQR under 25 lbs lending itself to the saying “There’s no such thing as a small CQR”. Despite these shortcomings, the hinged design makes it more responsive to wind and tide changes as compared to other anchors.

The   Delta   is arguably the most popular anchor on boats today, and is the standard anchor of choice used by most boat manufacturers. It has a good holding power per pound (about 50% more than the Bruce).

Both the   Delta   and the   CQR   perform well in most bottoms, struggling the most in rock.

Pros:   Performs well in most conditions. Fits most bow rollers. Cons:   Hinged design can make stowage awkward. "No such thing as a small CQR/Plow anchor". Bottoms : Performs well in most bottoms; struggles in rock.

Danforth™/Fluke Anchor

The  Danforth , or Fluke anchor, remains a very popular anchor choice. The Fortress is also a popular Fluke style anchor, different from the  Danforth  in that it comes apart and it constructed of light-weight, high-strength, aluminum.

The Fluke performs well in mud and sand, potentially the best of any anchor style. The downside is that outside of these bottoms, it is not a good performer. Therefore, it is a mud/sand only anchor, which fortunately is what most bottoms are comprised of.

Whether or not it is used as a primary anchor, a Fluke anchor makes an excellent choice as a secondary or stern anchor.

Pros:  Performs well in mud and sand. Stows easily on most bow rollers. Cons:   Does not perform well outside of mud/sand. Bottoms : Top performer in mud/sand. Performs poorly in other bottoms.

Spade Anchors

There are several anchors on the market today that feature a sharp fluke and a roll bar. These include the   Rocna and Manson Supreme.

Each of these anchors are essentially a variation on a plow style anchor. If you look at the plow portion of these anchors, you can see they are a lot sharper than traditional plows like the   Delta/Wing   and CQR. Analogous to a knife through butter, these anchors can penetrate the sea bottom a lot easier and deeper than the other anchor styles, hence the name for these anchors: "spade". The roll bar helps orient the anchor upright when setting.

These anchors have performed   extremely well in third party tests . The biggest downside to these anchors is that because they are still patented, they can be very expensive. The roll bar along with the elongated fluke can also make storing these anchors on bow rollers difficult.

Pros:   Very high holding power for many models. Cons:   Difficult to stow on a bow roller. Expense. Bottoms : Performs well in most bottoms; less effective in rock

Grapnel   and Other Small Craft Anchors

A  Grapnel anchor  is generally used for small boats such as Kayaks, Dinghies, Canoes, etc. It’s also popular with fishermen.They fold up very compactly and are easy to stow. A Grapnel’s holding power comes from hooking onto another object, such as a rock. When it does hook, it can create immense holding power, which can also make retrieving the anchor difficult.

Pros:  Great for use as a lunch hook. Folds to allow for compact storage. Cons:  Not appropriate for non-temporary anchorage. Bottoms: Rock or other situations when it can hook onto an object.

Mushroom Anchors

Large Mushroom anchors  are often used for permanent mooring buoys. As the silt from the sea-bottom builds up over these anchors, it can result in extreme holding power, up to 10 times the holding power of its actual weight. As a mooring buoy, the mushroom anchor is an excellent choice, however, it is not as useful in some temporary anchoring situations. An exception is that smaller versions of these anchors are good for use in small boats for anchoring while fishing or for a lunch stop over silty bottoms where the mushroom can penetrate.

Pros: If large, great for permanent mooring buoys. If small, good for use while fishing or for a lunch stop. Cons: If large, not appropriate for non-permanent moorings. If small, only good in soft bottoms. Bottoms: Silt, soft mud, unpacked sand.

Boat Anchor Material Types

Boat anchors come in a variety of types, the most popular being mild steel, high-tensile steel, stainless steel, and aluminum.

Most of the traditional steel anchors we are accustomed to seeing are likely either mild or high tensile steel. Mild steel and high-tensile steel are nearly indistinguishable from one another appearance wise. However, high tensile steel is 2-3 times stronger than mild steel. This isn't to say that a high-tensile steel boat anchor has 2-3 times the holding power of its mild steel counterpart, but it will nonetheless be stronger.

Both mild steel and high-tensile steel anchors are not corrosion resistant, and therefore need to be galvanized to prevent rust and other corrosion. All steel anchors (except stainless) should be galvanized. Galvanization has a tendency to wear down over time, but an anchor (as well as nearly any other steel product) can be re-galvanized.

Stainless steel is identical to galvanized steel in terms of holding power but differs significantly in appearance. The shiny gloss is essentially the only difference between stainless steel and galvanized steel. Stainless steel is also very corrosion resistant and will resist most rusting over time. You will often see manufacturers describing stainless steel as either 316 Stainless or 304 Stainless. 316 is a different chemical composition than 304 and is more corrosion resistant. It also more expensive.

There are some anchors constructed from high strength aluminum, such as the Fortress. These anchors are extremely lightweight while still offering high holding power. These anchors rely on bottom penetration for most of the holding power, and therefore, if they are not set, they provide little to no holding power.

Published May 08, 2018

Recent Posts

Our history: a 20 year journey.

Boat Cleaning Tips for Anglers: Keeping Your Vessel Spotless and Pristine

Avast, Ye Mariners! Master the Art of Docking: A Swashbuckling Guide for Boaters

Top Reasons to Keep a Boating Maintenance Log

4 Top Tips for Buying a New-to-you Used Boat

Top Trends in Recreational Boating for 2023

Bent Boat Anchor Shank: Common Causes and Prevention Tips

Prepare Your Boat For An Above Average Hurricane Season

Best Methods For Anchoring Your Jet Ski in Deep or Shallow Water

Best Options For Connecting Your Boat To WiFi Internet

Information

About Us Terms & Conditions Privacy Policy Product Manuals & Instructions Shipping Info

Anchors Anchor Lines Biminis Covers Dock Lines Fenders Galleyware Windlasses

Customer Service

Contact Us FAQs Returns & Warranty Wholesale Inquiries

Anchoring Help

Browse all products >, stay updated.

© 2024 TH Marine. All Rights Reserved. Anchoring.com ™ • Norestar™ • Komo Covers®

Boat Reviews

• Boats Specs
• Marine Pros
• Boat Insurance
• Boat Warranties
• Boat Transport
• Boat Towing
• Marine Forecasts

Your Ultimate Boating Resource

How to determine the size and weight of a boat anchor?

If you own a boat, you already know how essential an anchor is for boating. A boat anchor is an essential component that keeps your boat stable and secure to the seafloor while you’re underway or parked. It helps to provide stability and prevent your boat from drifting away. However, one important factor to consider when buying an anchor is its size and weight. Determining the right size and weight of the anchor for your boat is critical. Here is.

The weight of the boat should guide you when choosing the right size and anchor weight. Ideally, the recommended anchor weight is between 1/16 and 1/4 of your boat’s total weight. So, if you have a 2000-pound boat, the recommended anchor weight should be between 30 and 50 pounds.

Next, consider the seabed where you’ll be anchoring. If you’ll be anchoring in soft mud, you’ll need a larger and heavier anchor, whereas if you’ll be anchoring in rocky areas, a smaller, lighter anchor should suffice. The denser the seabed or the more significant the water current, the more substantial your anchor should be.

Boat size determines the anchor size. Large boats need more massive anchors than small boats, as powerful winds and water currents can quickly move a small anchor. Large boats require anchors of at least eight pounds of weight per foot of boat length, while small boats can do with five or six pounds.

The shape of the anchor also matters. Different shapes work best in different seabeds. For example, plow anchors work best in light to medium weeds and gravel, while Danforth anchors perform better in soft mud and sand.

It would be best if you had at least two different anchors of varying shapes and sizes in your boat to be flexible to use them in different locations.

Determining the correct size and weight of a boat anchor depends on several factors, including the boat size, seabed, and anchor shape. It’s always best to consult professionals when unsure about the right anchor size and weight or the right anchor shape for a particular area. Remember, selecting the appropriate anchor can mean the difference between staying safe and drifting away at sea.

Related Questions

What type of wood is used for pier pilings, what is the difference between a dock and a floating pier, what is the proper technique for pulling a beginner wakeboarder, what does ‘no wake’ mean on a lake, what is the difference between wash and wake, is wakesurfing possible in the sea, why don’t wooden piers rot, what size wakeboard is needed, how to achieve more pop on a wakeboard, does wake surfing translate to ocean surfing, latest posts, 2024 pursuit os 445: an overview, dock your boat smoothly this summer with these tips, the billionaire’s playground: where to spot superyachts around the world, summertime snack ideas for your boating adventure, don't miss, our newsletter.

Get the latest boating tips, fishing resources and featured products in your email from BoatingWorld.com!

De-Winterize Your Boat the Right Way with These Professional Tips

10 essential tips for fishing near private property, the benefits of using a drift sock: guidance for anglers, lure fishing: secrets for imitating live bait and attracting fish, explore the untapped depths of america’s best bass fishing spots, tackle your catch-and-release adventures with these 6 tips, outboard motor maintenance: tips for keeping your engine in top shape, the essential boat tool kit: tools every boater needs, diy boat building: 8 tips and tricks for building your own vessel, the art of miniature maritime craftsmanship: ship in a bottle, antifouling paints: a guide to keeping your boat shipshape, beginner’s guide to standup paddle boarding: tips and techniques, boating for fitness: how to stay active on the water, kayak safety: how to stay safe on the water, anchoring in a kayak or canoe: how to secure your small boat, 2024 aquila 47 molokai review, 2024 sea-doo switch 13 sport review, 2024 aspen c120 review, 2024 yamaha 222xd review, 2024 sailfish 316 dc review, 2023 seavee 340z review, 2023 centurion fi23 review, gear reviews, megabass oneten max lbo jerkbait review, fortress anchors fx-7 anchoring system review, fortress anchors fx-11 anchoring system review, fortress anchors commando anchor kit review, fortress anchors aluminum anchors review, stay in touch.

To be updated with all the latest news, offers and special announcements.

• Privacy Policy

What Size Anchor Do I Need? (Anchor Size Chart)

When it comes to boat safety items, an anchor is non-negotiable. Your anchor size roughly depends upon your boat size, type, wind speed, anchor type, and anchoring conditions you encounter.

To be precise, pinpointing the exact anchor size for your boat can be difficult. Nevertheless, it is always a good idea to follow the rough guidelines provided by your anchor manufacturer.

For your convenience, we’ve compiled all the information you need to figure out the right size of anchor for your boat in this post. Let’s begin!

Table of Contents

What Factors to Consider Before Buying a Boat Anchor?

Types of boat anchors, anchor size chart, what size anchor do i need, what are some common anchoring mistakes.

1. Holding power

The holding power of an anchor is the pull force it must withstand in order to hold the boat of a given weight in place.

Holding capacity depends upon the ability of the anchor to dig, the soil measurements, and the shape of the anchor . Holding power also varies with environmental factors such as wind speed.

2. Anchor weight:

Besides holding power, the anchor weight is also a primary factor you should consider. The anchor must be heavy enough to be able to drag through the bottom so that your vessel stays put in a single place.

In fact, many suggest always taking two anchors on board with you at all times, especially if you anchor your boat overnight; one, a simple hook style anchor for calm water and weather conditions, and a heavy one that assures your boat safety even during stormy and turbulent conditions.

Nevertheless, many new generation anchors today rely on the design that offers the best holding power and not really on the weight of the anchor.

3. Type of seabed:

Some types of anchors are efficient for sandy or muddy seabed, while others might be the best in the case of rough and rocky bottoms.

Almost all types of anchors have impressive holding power in hard sand bottoms. However, in mud bottoms, anchors need to penetrate high in order to reach the bottom material.

Likewise, weed bottoms are truly challenging to penetrate for anchors. Therefore, the anchor weight plays a critical role in such a seabed type.

Overall, you must be aware of the seabed types that you’ll encounter along your voyage to be able to choose the right design and sized anchor for your vessel.

1. Folding Grapnel:

Folding grapnels features multiple tines to grab structures and are great to anchor to an area with rough or rocky bottom. These anchors are great for small vessels, inflatables, and jet skis and are recommended by many as secondary or emergency anchors.

2. Reef Anchors:

As the name suggests, reef anchors are great for coral reefs and rocky bottoms. Many boaters choose to hand-weld and DIY reef anchors .

3. Plough anchors:

Plough anchors have a single penetrating point attached to the central shank and are ideal for sandy, muddy, and weed bottoms. You might notice arched shank in modern plough anchor designs. As long as it gets a good grip, this anchor type is also great for rocky bottom uses.

On the other hand, plough anchors might not be the ideal anchor for loose bottoms, as it only gets dragged along the boat without any resistance.

4. Claw anchors:

Claw anchors have a broader scoop shape than plough anchors and are suitable for anchoring in a variety of sea beds. It is ideal for sandy and muddy sea bottom but also performs decent enough in rocky bottoms. Nevertheless, it isn’t a great anchor candidate when it comes to loose sand bottoms.

5. Fluke or Danforth anchors:

Fluke anchors feature two triangular-shaped flukes attached to the central shank to bury onto the sea bed. Due to its simple design and lightweight character, it is undoubtedly a great choice for small crafts.

The small gap in between the flukes in the Danforth anchor allows better grip onto the rough sea bed. Although the orientation of the flukes is changeable depending upon the seabed material, the ideal angle for maximum efficiency is 30 degrees.

6. Mushroom anchors:

Another great anchor for small vessels and dinghies is the mushroom anchor. Small mushroom anchors are ideal if you often anchor your boat to a river bottom. On the other hand, large mushroom anchors are used for mooring purposes.

7. Spade with roll bar anchors:

Distributed by brands such as Manson and ROCNA, a spade with roll bar anchors is designed to set fast onto any type of sea bed with impeccable holding power.

For your convenience, we’ve done all the research for you. Here are some common anchor types used in the US and the anchor weight recommended for them depending on the boat length.

Remember to take this list only for reference purposes and research for the accurate and updated recommended anchor size listed by your manufacturer. And, when in doubt or during stormy conditions, always go a size higher.

Note: Unless specified otherwise, the chart assumes an average boat weight , average bottom conditions, and typical environmental conditions, including wind speed. In the case of exceptionally long and heavy vessels, many brands such as Lewmar recommend the clients follow the relevant Classification Societies for instructions.

The standard calculation is 1 lb of anchor for each foot of the boat. Once you’re ready with this basal value, you can then adjust the anchor size by taking the instructions below to size up or down the anchor.

As per the rope, use three-strand nylon, and the minimum scope for your anchor must be 5:1. The scope value should be around 7:1 in case of heavy vessels.

The boat anchor scope is the ratio of the deployed anchor rode length to the depth of the water from the deck height to the bottom of the water body.

Likewise, the 6 ft chain for every 25 ft of water depth rule is also the golden standard. Moreover, anchors require at least one ft of chain every one ft of boat length for maximum efficiency.

Up your boat anchor size, regardless of the manufacturer’s recommendation, if you relate to any of the following scenarios.

• Your anchor rode is relatively lightweight.
• Your boat is relatively heavier than other boats with similar dimensions.
• Your boat is usually anchored in an area where weather change is unpredictable and quick.
• Your boat is big and wide relatively.
• The anchored area has a lot of windage.
• You’re planning an offshore sea voyage.

On the other hand, when it comes to sizing down your anchor size, the typical suggestion is that you don’t do it unless and until you check these conditions.

• You’re well aware of what type of seabed you will be anchoring your boat in.
• You never anchor your boat for a long duration or overnight.
• The wind speed of your sailing area never exceeds 10 knots.
• Your anchor rode is too big and heavy for your lightweight boat.

Now that we all know how to choose the right boat anchor size for your boat let’s have a brief look at a few common mistakes sailors repeatedly make while anchoring their boat.

• Losing anchor in a trip is definitely not a new piece of news to experienced sailors. Many forget to secure the anchor line to the boat and simply throw the anchor into the water body.

Given this, many experts recommend sailors at least own two anchors on board with them during their journey.

• The anchor line can be messy to deal with, given how long they are. Often, sailors or the person on the foredeck make the mistake of letting the anchor go with their foot wrapped in the rope. That’s a pretty risky scenario.

Remember that when it comes to boat anchors , the bigger, the better unless the weight of the anchor is too heavy for your boat or it is too difficult to retrieve manually.

Also, for multihulls, many brands, including Spade and Rocna, suggest the buyers to up the size than recommended in the guide.

We hope you could form a clear idea on your head regarding the sizing of the boat anchor you require after reading this post. Let us know in case of any more queries!

Related posts:

• Do You Wear Socks With Boat Shoes?
• Bass Hunter Boats vs. Jonny Boats vs. Aleko: Which Is Best?
• 6 Simple Steps to Tie A Boat To a Dock Cleat
• Hydraulic Vs. Mechanical Boat Steering: Which Is Better?

Similar Posts

How To Choose Sailboat Autopilot? (Types & Components)

Autopilot is a great feature to have on a sailboat, especially during extended voyages. Nowadays, autopilot has become part of a newer sailboat package. But you can undoubtedly retrofit your older vessels with this idyllic comfort. There are various options and accessories to pick from when shopping for a suitable autopilot system for your boat….

How Fast Can a Boat Go? (Chart)

Many people talk of how motorcycles, cars, trains, and planes go fast. But did you know there’s much fun when you know about boat speeds? Do you ever ask yourself how fast the boat you are using can go? Well, it’s time to get some answers. Here, we’ll respond to the common query, how fast…

4 Simple Steps to Paint A Fiberglass Boat

Are you looking to spruce up your boat? Is the original gel coat on your beloved boat looking old and worn out? Painting a boat is one of the best ways to give it a new look and even increase its value. A fresh coat of paint can do wonders even for an old boat….

Do You Need A License To Drive A Boat?

Are you planning to drive a boat for the first time? Boating is one of the most exhilarating outdoor activities, and if you get a chance to do it, you should definitely use it. But before you hop onto any water-bound vessel, you might be wondering: Do I need a license to drive a boat?…

6 Best Cheap Boats You Can Live On Full Time

If you have always lived in a cozy house with all the niceties and comforts included, then living on a boat must sound crazy. While it’s true that you will have to compromise some things as you make your transition from land to sea, this lifestyle change is entirely worth it. For a long time,…

Vinyl Wrap vs. Paint Boat: Which is Better?

How would you love to see the finishing of your boat? Yes, paints have existed for ages, but since the wraps came in, many people ask, which one is better? Well, stick around, for you are about to make the best choice. We’ll talk about the vinyl wrap vs. paint boat. Some owners and marine…

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Best anchors: 8 new generation designs suitable for every boat

• Rupert Holmes
• January 27, 2022

Most boats would benefit from upgrading to a better anchor for a host of reasons. We take a look at 8 of the best anchors on the market right now

Securing your anchor do it is ready to drop could get you out of a tight spot when you can't sail out of trouble. Credit: Theo Stocker

Good ground tackle and understanding how to anchor properly opens up the option to stay overnight in stunning bays and creeks, away from costly marinas and expensive harbour moorings. And picking the best anchors is essential in terms of safety too as you may well need it to hold you off a lee shore in the event of engine failure.

However, unless your boat’s anchor has been upgraded recently, the chances are it’s of a type that will not provide good holding power.

What to look for in a good anchor?

Much has changed in the world of anchors in the past 20 years, which led to classification societies such as Lloyds adding a new Super High Holding Power certification category for these anchors in 2008.

Most of the best anchors exceed the requirements for this by a wide margin.

These advances in anchor technology and different types of anchor mean older boats won’t have been equipped with what we would now consider to be decent ground tackle when they were new.

This is also true for most vessels built in the last 20 years. Until recently the latest generation of anchors was relatively expensive, so were generally only fitted as standard equipment to very high quality yachts.

The various brands of today’s very high holding power anchors share a number of key characteristics that make them more effective than older products.

The best anchors tend to have a concave profile akin to the shape of a shovel. This digs more firmly into the seabed without tending to act like a plough when under load.

Another important aspect to look for in a good anchor is the tip weight, as loading as much weight here as possible is a massive help in enabling it to penetrate weed and other difficult types of sea bed.

Typical new generation anchors have 35-45 per cent of their weight on the tip. Some also have roll bars that prevent the anchor landing on the seabed upside down.

Whatever anchor you choose, beware of cheap unbranded copies. These rarely have the precise geometry needed to maximise holding power. Some are also badly cast and therefore weaker than the original design.

At a glance:

Note: We may earn a commission when you buy through links on our site, at no extra cost to you. This doesn’t affect our editorial independence.

7 of the best anchors on the market right now.

Rocna Galvanised Anchor

This was one of the first of the new generation of ultra high holding power anchors and quickly gained much acclaim, despite an initially high price tag.

The Rocna is well engineered and has an excellent reputation for digging in quickly and easily. Once set it then offers excellent holding.

A roll bar is incorporated, but a downside of Rocnas is they do not stow neatly on all bow rollers.

To solve this problem the company developed the Vulcan series, which doesn’t have the roll bar and is shaped to fit on a wider range of bow rollers.

Reasons to buy:

– Good quality anchor

– Excellent holding power

Reasons to avoid:

– It is expensive

– Do not stow neatly on all bow rollers

Specifications:

– Size: 96 x 41 x 39 cm

– Weight: Available in 10kg, 20kg and 25kg

Buy it now on Amazon.co.uk

Buy it now on Amazon.com

Buy a Rocna Vulcan on Amazon.co.uk

Buy a stainless steel Rocna Vulcan on Amazon.com

Lewmar Stainless Steel Epsilon Anchor

Read PBO’s Lewmar Epsilon review

The latest model from this UK company offers the benefits of a new generation anchor at very attractive prices.

It has a winged design with concave flukes to maximise holding power in a variety of sea beds, a ballasted tip that enables it to dig in readily and is self righting, even though the roll bar is optional.

The Epsilon is intended as a direct replacement for Lewmar’s long-running plough style Delta anchor.

Although the Epsilon’s shank is proportionately shorter, the two models share the same basic shank geometry. Therefore, if a Delta fits your bow roller then an Epsilon will also fit.

– Easy to handle

– Designed to fit any bow roller that works for the Delta

– It has a shorter shank

– Size: ‎55 x 35 x 30cm

– Material: stainless steel

– Weight: ‎6.1kg

Buy it now on eBay

Buy it now from Amazon

Buy it now from West Marine (US only)

Fortress FX-11

This aluminium anchor is an older design from more than 30 years ago, but still has a number of advantages that makes it an excellent choice in some circumstances.

It’s biggest feature is very light weight relative to the holding power the anchor provides. This makes it a perfect option for performance catamarans and trimarans, as well as for smaller fast motor boats.

The key downside, however, is that the holding power is achieved through the surface area of the flukes, not the weight of the anchor. This means it’s physically larger than other anchors, although it comes apart like the Spade for easier stowage.

A neat feature is that the angle of the flukes can be varied to suit different types of sea bed.

– Perfect for catamarans and trimarans

– Easy to manoeuvre thanks to its light weight design

– Flukes can be adapted to the type of sea bed

– Larger than other anchors

– Holding power is from the surface area of flukes

– Size: ‎73.66 x 15.24 x 7.62 cm

– Material: aluminium

– Weight: 8 pounds

Spade Anchor S series

This is another popular modern anchor, but with an important difference to other brands.

The hollow shank can be removed to make stowage easier. This makes it an excellent choice for racing yachts and other vessels that don’t permanently keep the anchor on the bow, or for occasional use as a kedge.

There’s no roll bar, but the tip loading is close to 50 per cent of the total weight, which helps it to dig in and set quickly.

The main drawback of the Spade is one of cost – it’s more complex to manufacture than other designs, so the price is relatively high.

– Good option for racing yachts

– The hollow shank can be removed

– No roll bar

– Expensive

– Size: S40 to S160

– Material: galvanised steel

– Weight: 6kg to 55kg

Buy it now from Jimmy Green Marine

Knox Anchors

Professor John Knox spent a great deal of his spare time researching the loads on anchors and rodes.

His work in this area over a period of 20 years contributed a huge amount to our understanding of anchoring and precise causes of anchors dragging or breaking out.

It also led him to develop his own design of anchor that would offer significantly better performance compared to the popular models at the time. It was therefore one of the first of the new generation designs.

The Knox anchor has a patented divided fluke with sharpened edges set at an angle that enables it to dig into the seabed quickly and efficiently.

It’s fitted with a roll bar and, while the shank is made of the highest tensile strength steel available.

– Made of the highest tensile strength steel

– Patented divided fluke with sharpened edges set at an angle to dig into the seabed

– We can’t find any

– Material: highest tensile strength steel

– Weight: 6.5kg to 27kg

Buy it now from Knox Anchors

Stirrup Anchor Bugel Anchor

The Bügel was one of the very first new generation anchors and quickly set a new benchmark in the industry.

It has a flat fluke with lower surface area than later designs, plus a roll bar and a shank made of thick plate.

This makes it a relatively inexpensive anchor, which is undoubtedly a key factor behind its enormous popularity, even though later products offer higher holding power.

– Good value anchor

– It features a rollbar and shank

– Other products offer higher holding power

– Size: 66 x 28cm to 86 x 38cm

– Material: Hot-galvanised steel

– Weight: 9 to 16kg

Buy it now from compass24.com

Manson Supreme Anchor

This was the first anchor to receive Lloyds Super High Holding Power certification when the classification was introduced in 2008.

It’s a fabricated design that uses two layers of steel for the fluke and relies on a roll bar, rather than a ballasted tip, to self-right.

The upper slot in the shank is intended for use in rocky sea beds, or anchoring in coral . The idea is that if the anchor becomes stuck the rode can be slid to the shank end of the slot, enabling the anchor to be retrieved without using a tripping line.

The shape of the anchor is designed to fit all conventional anchor rollers.

– Good for use on a rocky sea bed

– The anchor fits all conventional anchor rollers

– Other products offer innovative designs compared to this classical anchor design

– Size: 18′ – 30′ to 40′ – 45′

– Weight: 7kg to 20kg

Buy it now from Marinesuperstore.com

Ultra Marine Ultra Anchor

Read Yachting Monthly’s Ultra Anchor review

Our sister title Yachting Monthly recently tested the new 12kg Ultra Anchor from Ultra Marine over several nights at anchor.

Editor Theo Stocker said: “I was impressed with how quickly the anchor set.

“While our normal 10kg Bruce anchor can struggle in soft sand and weed, the Ultra anchor buried itself almost completely and refused to drag.

“The Ultra’s performance amply delivers on its maker’s promises as is comparable to other stainless anchors,” he concluded.

– Handmade and hand-polished stainless steel

– Ready to dig in

– Not the cheapest option on this list

– Weight: 5kg to 8kg

Service Locator

• Angler Endorsement
• Boat Towing Coverage
• Mechanical Breakdown
• Insurance Requirements in Mexico
• Agreed Hull Value
• Actual Cash Value
• Liability Only
• Insurance Payment Options
• Claims Information
• Towing Service Agreement
• Membership Plans
• Boat Show Tickets
• BoatUS Boats For Sale
• Membership Payment Options
• Consumer Affairs
• Boat Documentation Requirements
• Installation Instructions
• Shipping & Handling Information
• Contact Boat Lettering
• End User Agreement
• Frequently Asked Questions
• Vessel Documentation
• BoatUS Foundation
• Government Affairs
• Powercruisers
• Buying & Selling Advice
• Maintenance
• Tow Vehicles
• Make & Create
• Makeovers & Refitting
• Accessories
• Electronics
• Skills, Tips, Tools
• Spring Preparation
• Winterization
• Boaters’ Rights
• Environment & Clean Water
• Boat Safety
• Navigational Hazards
• Personal Safety
• Batteries & Onboard Power
• Motors, Engines, Propulsion
• Books & Movies
• Communication & Etiquette
• Contests & Sweepstakes
• Colleges & Tech Schools
• Food, Drink, Entertainment
• New To Boating
• Travel & Destinations
• Watersports
• Anchors & Anchoring
• Boat Handling

How To Weigh Anchor

Advertisement

You've successfully anchored. Now here's how to free your hook so you can head to your next port.

Chez Nous slowly moves forward as Tom Neale raises the anchor chain. When the boat is over the anchor, he stops the windlass, secures the chain, and lets the waves and a gentle forward RPM pull the anchor free of the bottom. (Photo: Mel Neale)

When it comes time to move on, you'll need to apply a vertical load to your anchor rode to break the anchor free. Move forward slowly and gently using the engine (never use only the windlass). If you don't have a windlass, gather aboard as much rode as you can by hand. Make sure to keep the rode out of the propeller and rudder. A person at the bow should communicate with the person on the helm by continually pointing at the position of the rode and anchor, so the helmsman can steer toward the anchor location. (See "How To Anchor".) Once the rode is directly below the bow of the boat, take a turn on a cleat. Then signal the helmsperson to put the engine in SLOW forward. The anchor should break free. If it doesn't, apply a little more throttle. Once the anchor is free, go back to neutral, bring the anchor and rode aboard, rinse off any mud, and coil and stow the rode.

We're Stuck!

Once in awhile, the anchor won't break free. First, try to use the vessel's own buoyancy and whatever wave action there is to help out. Position the boat so the rode is vertical, then snub it up as tight as you can with each successive dip of the bow in the waves, letting the pumping action of the vessel work the anchor free. If this doesn't work, let out a little scope (2:1) and slowly motor forward in an effort to back the hook out. Circling the anchor while keeping the rode tight may work as well, but always keep your prop, rudder, and keel free of the rode.

If Davy Jones just won't let go and the water's clear and the weather is nice (and it's safe to do this), grab your snorkel or diving gear and check things out. You might see that your rode is around a rock or other obstruction. Alternatively, use a "look-down" bucket (a 5-gallon bucket with a clear Plexiglas bottom).

If neither is an option, check the chart to figure out what you could be hung on. If you think a cable or old anchor chain is the culprit, utilizing an anchor rider or chaser may work. Shackle a short length of chain together to form a loop around the anchor rode, then lower it down to the anchor shank using a messenger line of double-braided nylon (3/8-inch minimum). Double-braided line has less stretch than three-strand and won't snap back if it breaks or when the anchor comes free. Once you've worked the chaser over the anchor's shank (keeping the rode somewhat tight and vertical will make this easier) and down to the main body of the anchor, use the messenger to pull the anchor backward and hopefully free from the obstruction.

In extreme cases, buoy the rode, cast it off, then try backing out the anchor with the messenger by pulling 180 degrees from where you were originally anchored. If an old anchor chain or cable is the culprit, try to fish for it with a grapnel to lift it up and free your anchor. Be sure to attach a trip line to the grapnel's crown to aid in retrieval in case it gets stuck, too!

Related Articles

• Where To Anchor
• How To Anchor
• Which Anchor Is Right For You?
• Ground Tackle Upkeep

The Truth About Ceramic Coatings For Boats

Our editor investigates the marketing claims of consumer-grade ceramic coatings.

Fine-Tune Your Side Scan Fishfinder

Take your side-scanning fishfinder off auto mode, and you’ll be spotting your prey from afar in no time

DIY Boat Foam Decking

Closed-cell foam flooring helps make boating more comfortable. Here’s how to install it on your vessel

Click to explore related articles

Frank Lanier

Contributing Editor, BoatUS Magazine

Capt. Frank Lanier is a SAMS Accredited Marine Surveyor with more than 40 years of experience in the marine and diving industries. He’s also an author, public speaker, and multiple award-winning journalist whose articles on boat maintenance, repair, and seamanship appear regularly in numerous marine publications worldwide. He can be reached via his YouTube channel “Everything Boats with Capt. Frank Lanier” and website captfklanier.com.

BoatUS Magazine Is A Benefit Of BoatUS Membership

Membership Benefits Include:

Subscription to the print version of BoatUS Magazine

4% back on purchases from West Marine stores or online at WestMarine.com

Discounts on fuel, transient slips, repairs and more at over 1,200 businesses

Deals on cruises, charters, car rentals, hotel stays and more…

All for only $25/year!

We use cookies to enhance your visit to our website and to improve your experience. By continuing to use our website, you’re agreeing to our cookie policy.

Currency: GBP

• Worldwide Delivery

Mooring Warps and Mooring Lines

• LIROS 3 Strand Polyester Mooring Warps
• LIROS Green Wave 3 Strand Mooring Warps
• LIROS Braided Dockline Mooring Warps
• LIROS Handy Elastic Mooring Warps
• Marlow Blue Ocean Dockline
• LIROS Super Yacht Mooring Polyester Docklines
• 50 metre / 100 metre Rates - Mooring

Mooring Accessories

• Mooring Compensators

Mooring Strops and Bridles

• V shape Mooring Bridles
• Y shape Mooring Bridles
• Small Boat and RIB Mooring Strops
• Mooring Strops
• Mooring Strops with Chain Centre Section

Mooring Assistance

• Coastline Bow Thruster Accessories
• Max Power Bow Thrusters
• Bonomi Mooring Cleats
• Majoni Fenders
• Polyform Norway Fenders
• Ocean Inflatable Fenders
• Dock Fenders
• Fender Ropes and Accessories

Mooring Components

• Mooring Swivels
• Mooring Shackles
• Mooring Cleats and Fairleads
• Mooring Buoys

Mooring Information

• Mooring Warps Size Guide
• Mooring Lines - LIROS Recommended Diameters
• Mooring Rope Selection Guide
• Mooring Warp Length and Configuration Guide
• How to estimate the length of a single line Mooring Strop
• Mooring Ropes - Break Load Chart
• Mooring Compensator Advisory
• Rope Cockling Information
• Fender Size Guide
• Majoni Fender Guide
• Polyform Norway Fender Inflation Guide
• More Article and Guides >

Anchor Warps Spliced to Chain

• LIROS 3 Strand Nylon Spliced to Chain
• LIROS Anchorplait Nylon Spliced to Chain

Anchor Warps

• LIROS Anchorplait Nylon Anchor Warps
• LIROS 3 Strand Nylon Anchor Warps
• Leaded Anchor Warp
• Drogue Warps and Bridles
• 50 / 100 metre Rates - Anchoring

Aluminium Anchors

• Galvanised Anchors
• Stainless Steel Anchors

Calibrated Anchor Chain

• Cromox G6 Stainless Steel Chain
• G4 Calibrated Stainless Steel Anchor Chain
• Lofrans Grade 40
• MF DAMS Grade 70
• MF Grade 40
• Titan Grade 43
• Lewmar Windlasses
• Lofrans Windlasses
• Maxwell Windlasses
• Quick Windlasses
• Windlass Accessories and Spares

Chain Snubbers

• Chain Hooks, Grabs and Grippers
• Chain Snubbing Bridles
• Chain Snubbing Strops

Anchoring Accessories

• Anchor Connectors
• Anchor Trip Hooks and Rings
• Anchoring Shackles
• Bow Rollers and Fittings
• Chain and Anchor Stoppers
• Chain Links and Markers

Anchoring Information

• How To Choose A Main Anchor
• Anchoring System Assessment
• Anchor Chain and Rope Size Guide
• The Jimmy Green Guide to the Best Anchor Ropes

What Size Anchor Do I Need?

• Anchor to Chain Connection Guide
• How to Choose Your Anchor Chain
• How to Establish the Correct Anchor Chain Calibration?
• Calibrated Anchor Chain - General Information
• Calibrated Anchor Chain Quality Control
• Calibrated Chain - Break Load and Weight Guide
• Galvanising - Managing Performance and Endurance expectation
• Can Galvanised Steel be used with Stainless Steel?
• Windlass Selection Guide
• More Articles and Guides

Stainless Steel Wire Rigging and Wire Rope

• 1x19 Wire Rigging
• 50 / 100 metre Rates - Wire and Fibre
• 7x19 Flexible Wire Rigging
• Compacted Strand Wire Rigging

Dinghy Rigging

• Stainless Steel Dinghy Rigging
• Dinghy Rigging Fittings

Fibre Rigging

• LIROS D-Pro Static Rigging
• LIROS D-Pro-XTR Fibre Rigging
• DynIce Dux Fibre Rigging
• Fibre Rigging Fittings

Wire Terminals

• Cones, Formers, Wedges, Ferrules, Rigging Spares
• Hi-Mod Swageless Terminals
• Sta-Lok Swageless Terminals
• Swage Terminals

Wire Rigging Fittings

• Turnbuckle Components

Rigging Accessories

• Rigging Chafe Protection
• Headsail Reefing Furlers
• Plastimo Jib Reefing
• Selden Furlex Reefing Gear

Furling Systems

• Anti-torsion Stays
• Straight Luff Furlers
• Top Down Furlers

Guard Wires, Rails and Fittings

• Guard Rail Fittings
• Guard Rails in Fibre and Webbing
• Guard Wire Accessories
• Guard Wires

Standing Rigging Assistance

• Replacing your Furling Line
• Fibre Rigging Break Load Comparison Guide
• More Articles and Guides >
• Cruising Halyards
• Performance Halyards
• Dinghy Halyards

Rigging Shackles

• Captive and Key Pin Shackles
• hamma™ Snap Shackles
• Soft Shackles
• Standard Snap Shackles
• Wichard Snap Shackles

Classic Ropes

• Classic Control Lines
• Classic Halyards
• Classic Sheets
• Cruising Sheets
• Performance Sheets
• Dinghy Sheets

Sail Handling

• Boom Brakes and Preventers
• Lazy Jack Sail Handling
• Rodkickers, Boomstruts
• Sail Handling Accessories

50 / 100 metre Rates - Running Rigging

• 50 / 100 metres - Cruising Ropes
• 50 / 100 metres - Dinghy Ropes
• 50 / 100 metres - Performance Ropes

Control Lines

• Cruising Control Lines
• Performance Control Lines
• Dinghy Control Lines
• Continuous Control Lines

Running Rigging Accessories

• Anti-Chafe Rope Protection
• Lashing, Lacing and Lanyards
• Mast and Boom Fittings
• Rope Stowage
• Sail Ties and Sail Stowage
• Shock Cord and Fittings
• LIROS Ropes
• Marlow Ropes

Running Rigging Resources

• Running Rigging Rope Fibres and Construction Explained
• How to Select a Suitable Halyard Rope
• How to select Sheets and Guys
• Dyneema Rope - Cruising and Racing Comparison
• Dinghy Rope Selection Guide
• Rope Measurement Information
• Running Rigging - LIROS Recommended Line Diameters
• Running Rigging Break Load Comparison Chart
• Colour Coding for Running Rigging
• Selecting the right type of block, plain, roller or ball bearing
• Recycling Rope
• Running Rigging Glossary

Plain Bearing Blocks

• Barton Blocks
• Harken Element Blocks
• Low Friction Rings
• Selden Yacht Blocks
• Wichard MXEvo Blocks
• Wooden Yacht Blocks

Control Systems

• Ratchet Blocks
• Stanchion Blocks and Fairleads
• Snatch Blocks
• Genoa Car Systems
• Traveller Systems
• Block and Tackle Purchase Systems

Ball Bearing Blocks

• Harken Ball Bearing Blocks
• Selden Ball Bearing Blocks

Roller Bearing Blocks

• Harken Black Magic Blocks
• Selden Roller Bearing Blocks

Deck Fittings

• Bungs and Hatches
• Bushes and Fairleads
• Deck Eyes, Straps and Hooks
• Pad Eyes, U Bolts and Eye Bolts
• Pintles and Gudgeons
• Tiller Extensions and Joints
• Harken Winches, Handles and Accessories
• Barton Winches, Snubbers and Winchers
• Lewmar Winches, Handles and Accessories
• Winch Servicing and Accessories

Clutches and Organisers

• Barton Clutches and Organisers
• Spinlock Clutches and Organisers
• Lewmar Clutches
• Harken Ball Bearing Cam Cleats
• Barton K Cam Cleats

Deck Hardware Support

• Blocks and Pulleys Selection Guide
• Barton High Load Eyes
• Dyneema Low Friction Rings Comparison
• Seldén Block Selection Guide
• Barton Track Selection Guide
• Barton Traveller Systems Selection Guide
• Harken Winch Selection Guide
• Karver Winch Comparison Chart
• Lewmar Winch Selection Guide - PDF
• Winch Servicing Guide

Sailing Flags

• Courtesy Flags
• Red Ensigns
• Blue Ensigns
• Signal Code Flags
• Flag Staffs and Sockets
• Flag Accessories
• Flag Making and Repair
• Webbing only
• Webbing Soft Shackles
• Webbing Restraint Straps
• Webbing Sail Ties
• Sail Sewing
• PROtect Tape

Fixings and Fastenings

• Screws, Bolts, Nuts and Washers
• Monel Rivets

Hatches and Portlights

• Lewmar Hatches
• Lewmar Portlights
• Fids and Tools
• Knives and Scissors

General Chandlery

• Carabiners and Hooks
• Antifouling

Flag Articles

• Flag Size Guide
• Bending and Hoisting Methods for Sailing Flags
• Courtesy Flags Identification, Labelling and Stowage
• Courtesy Flag Map
• Flag Etiquette and Information
• Glossary of Flag Terms and Parts of a Flag
• Making and Repairing Flags
• Signal Code Message Definitions

Other Chandlery Articles

• Anchorplait Splicing Instructions
• Antifoul Coverage Information
• Hawk Wind Indicator Selection Guide
• Petersen Stainless - Upset Forging Information
• Speedy Stitcher Sewing Instructions
• Thimble Dimensions and Compatible Shackles

Jackstays and Jacklines

• Webbing Jackstays
• Stainless Steel Wire Jackstay Lifelines
• Fibre Jackstay Lifelines
• Jackstay and Lifeline Accessories

Lifejackets

• Crewsaver Lifejackets
• Seago Lifejackets
• Spinlock Lifejackets
• Children's Life Jackets
• Buoyancy Aids

Floating Rope

• LIROS Multifilament White Polypropylene
• LIROS Yellow Floating Safety Rope

Guard Wires, Guardrails and Guardrail Webbing

Lifejacket accessories.

• Lifejacket Lights
• Lifejacket Rearming Kits
• Lifejacket Spray Hoods
• Safety Lines

Seago Liferafts

• Grab Bag Contents
• Grab Bags and Polybottles
• Liferaft Accessories
• Danbuoy Accessories
• Jimmy Green Danbuoys
• Jonbuoy Danbuoys
• Seago Danbuoys

Overboard Recovery

• Lifebuoy Accessories
• Purchase Systems
• Slings and Throwlines

Safety Accessories

• Fire Safety
• Sea Anchors and Drogues

Safety Resources

• Guard Wires - Inspection and Replacement Guidance
• Guard Wire Stud Terminal Dimensions
• Webbing Jackstays Guidance
• Webbing Jackstays - Custom Build Instructions
• Danbuoy Selection Guide
• Danbuoy Instructions - 3 piece Telescopic - Offshore
• Liferaft Selection Guide
• Liferaft Servicing
• Man Overboard Equipment - World Sailing Compliance
• Marine Safety Information Links
• Safety Marine Equipment List for UK Pleasure Vessels

Sailing Clothing

• Sailing Jackets
• Sailing Trousers
• Thermal Layers

Leisure Wear

• Accessories
• Rain Jackets
• Sweatshirts

Sailing Footwear

• Dinghy Boots and Shoes
• Sailing Wellies

Leisure Footwear

• Walking Shoes

Sailing Accessories

• Sailing Bags and Holdalls
• Sailing Gloves
• Sailing Kneepads

Clothing Clearance

Clothing guide.

• What to wear Sailing
• Helly Hansen Mens Jacket and Pant Size Guide
• Helly Hansen Womens Sailing Jacket and Pant Size Guide
• Lazy Jacks Mens and Womens Size Charts
• Musto Men's and Women's Size Charts
• Old Guys Rule Size Guide
• Sailing Gloves Size Guides
• Weird Fish Clothing Size Charts

The Jimmy Green Clothing Store

Lower Fore St, Beer, East Devon, EX12 3EG

• Adria Bandiere
• Anchor Marine
• Anchor Right
• August Race
• Barton Marine
• Blue Performance
• Brierley Lifting
• Brook International
• Brookes & Adams
• Captain Currey
• Chaineries Limousines
• Coastline Technology
• Colligo Marine
• Cyclops Marine
• Douglas Marine
• Ecoworks Marine
• Exposure OLAS
• Fire Safety Stick
• Fortress Marine Anchors
• Hawk Marine Products
• Helly Hansen
• International
• Jimmy Green Marine
• Maillon Rapide
• Mantus Marine
• Marling Leek
• Meridian Zero
• MF Catenificio
• Ocean Fenders
• Ocean Safety
• Old Guys Rule
• Petersen Stainless
• Polyform Norway
• PSP Marine Tape
• Sidermarine
• Stewart Manufacturing Inc
• Team McLube
• Technical Marine Supplies
• Titan Marine (CMP)
• Ultramarine
• Waterline Design
• William Hackett

Clearance August Race Boat Cleaning Kit £26.00

Clearance LIROS Racer Dyneema £55.08

Clearance Folding Stock Anchor £123.25

Clearance LIROS Herkules £0.00

Clearance Barton Size 0 Ball Bearing Blocks - 5mm £0.00

Clearance Marlow Blue Ocean® Doublebraid £18.48

Mooring Clearance

Anchoring clearance, standing rigging clearance, running rigging clearance, deck hardware clearance, chandlery clearance, safety clearance.

The Jimmy Green Anchor Size Comparison Chart is compiled from individual manufacturer recommendations and highlights how similar the suggestions are across various designs.

How to choose your Anchor Weight by Manufacturer Recommendation

• Find the column below that best represents your Boat Length Overall.
• Compare your displacement with the tonnage listed.
• If the displacement is greater than displayed in your column in the table, or the yacht is a multihull, consider moving across to the next column to increase the diameter.
• Consider the worst-case scenario for your anticipated Anchoring - this will dictate whether you go for the minimum required or the ocean cruising approach
• Consider the manufacturer sizing parameters listed below the tables 
• Compile a short list of potential anchors to consider

Rex Francis has set the Anchor Right parameters for the Sarca Excel in a slightly different format. However, it can still be compared with other anchor designs with a little interpretation.

SARCA Excel Parameters - Length and Displacement Anchor Right Advisory - If your boat is over the limit in either column, it is advisable to upgrade to the next size. Upgrading one size for a multihull or long-term anchor dependent cruising would also be considered good practice.

Most anchor manufacturers publish a recommended weight of anchor by either the length overall or a combination of length, displacement and windage.

Some top manufacturers also include weather conditions and distinguish between monohulls and multihulls.

The top manufacturers are generally conservative and specify more criteria to help you choose.

The authority of each manufacturer recommendation may be judged by several factors: reputation, personal experience, research, the number of relevant factors taken into account, and the amount of detailed information they publish on the subject.

The Jimmy Green Anchor Size Chart collates the recommended sizing for all the anchors we offer on our website and highlights how similar the recommendations are. Interpretation is still required, e.g. multihulls, high windage profile and extreme weather.

Anchor Sizing Parameters by Manufacturer

A more detailed explanation of how the data for individual anchors is presented and how it is collated into the Comparison Table follows:

Galvanised and Stainless Steel Anchors

Rocna, Vulcan and Rocna Mark2, Galvanised and Stainless Steel - Length and Displacement

Rocna/Vulcan recommend an anchor one size larger than indicated in their guide for multihulls

Quote from their Fitment Guide - ”our anchor sizing recommendations are intended to provide an anchor adequate for use in most all conditions. We base our calculations on 50 knots of wind, associated surge, and poor holding bottoms.”

Mantus Mark 1 and 2 – Length, Displacement and Wind Speed

Mantus Quote - “we are generally referring to the needs of a cruising boat spending most of its time on anchor. In doing so, we try to envelope high sustained winds (50 knots) and assume poor holding conditions (low viscosity bottoms).”

Mantus publish a chart in three categories – “Lunch Anchor category is recommended for lighter use, expected winds under 30 knots, working anchor for winds under 50 knots and finally, storm anchor recommendations are intended for winds above 50 knots.”

N.B. The Jimmy Green Comparison Table is derived from the Mantus middle category.

Spade Galvanised and Stainless Steel – Length and Displacement

Spade recommend an anchor one size larger than indicated in their guide for multihulls

UltraMarine Stainless Steel – The UltraMarine Anchor Size Guide considers multiple factors. Their comprehensive approach includes Length, Displacement, Mono/Multihull and Windage Profile criteria.

Lewmar Epsilon, Delta and Claw – Length only

Lewmar guidelines are illustrated in a shaded colour range by length only, so you need to judge displacement, i.e. light, average, or heavy, compared with similar length yachts. If the answer is heavy, upgrading to the next size is advisable.

Plastimo Britany – Length only

Plastimo Quote – “Anchor weight per boat length is only given as an indication. However, your anchor selection should also recognise the specific construction of your vessel.”

Using a lightweight anchor goes against the traditional belief that weight is one of the most critical factors in holding power.

Fortress Quote – “Fortress design does not depend upon weight to provide world class performance.”

However, the most popular application for aluminium anchors is as a convenient, high holding power secondary or kedge anchor.

Fortress/Guardian – Length only

Fortress Quote – “Boat anchor size recommendations are for boats of average windage and proportions in 30 knots of wind, average bottom conditions, and moderate protection from open seas. Remember that the loads in 42 knots of wind are twice as much as in 30 knots.”

Spade Aluminium – Length and Displacement

Spade recommend an anchor one size larger than indicated in their guide for multihulls.

Spade Quote – “Aluminium version not recommended for use as a primary anchor.”

Lewmar LFX – Length only

Compare Prices and Purchase an Anchor

Anchor Sizing

When sizing an anchor or anchor rode, it’s useful to have starting point and to think of the whole system. This is a table developed by American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) to approximate the expected load on the anchor and the anchor rode for given wind speed and boat length. The complete table appears in Section H-40 of ABYC’s Standards and Technical Reports for Small Craft available at abycinc.org.  The below table was created more than 50 years ago and it is not clear exactly how it was derived. After comparing this data in this table to work that has been done since we come to the conclusion that the values presented here represent loads expected on the anchor rode if anchored on chain only without the use of the snubbing system.  And using a line rode or and adequately designed snubber you can reduce the loads by a factor of 3, by eliminating the shock loads. This is an argument for why its so important to use a snubber but when sizing anchor rode or your anchor, it is important to consider loads as stated in the table. The reason is that we can not rely on the integrity of a snubber in a storm.  Should the snubber fail, the integrity of the rode should be sufficient to handle the loads without the snubber.

The ABYC Horizontal Working Load (lbs) Table

How do you intend to use your boat? Do you sail only on calm days with fair weather (Lunch Hook) or are you outfitting for an adventure (Storm) where you might be exposed to hazardous weather at anchor? For example, if you are outfitting a 35 foot boat for you should size the working rode and anchor to safely handle loads up to 1,800lbs if planning a cruising adventure, but the same margin of safety is not necessary if operating day trips from the safety of a marina.

When making sizing recommendations we are generally referring to the needs of a cruising boat spending most of its time on anchor, in doing so we try to envelope high sustained winds (45 kts) and assume poor holding conditions (low viscosity bottoms).  Some may think these recommendations to be too conservative especially when compared to sizing tables from other manufacturers. Companies often make claims of superior anchor efficiency, stating that their small anchor X will outperform a much heavier anchor from their competitors and often use sizing charts as a marketing tool to that end, recommending anchors and anchor systems that are dangerously undersized for their intended use.  Comparing surface area can be a good judge for potential holding capability.  Our anchor sizing recommendations are presented in the table below:

ANCHOR SIZING GUIDE (Click to enlarge)

Review Cart

No products in the cart.

Please log in to access the affiliate area.

Username or Email Address

Remember Me

What Size Anchor Do I Need For My Boat? (Anchor Size Chart & Photos!)

Find the perfect anchor for your boat with our comprehensive guide, including a size chart and photos. Make safe anchoring easy for every trip.

We put anchors on boats to keep the vessel safe and secure in a specific location and to manage the boat as best as possible during foul weather. Any old anchor will not suffice. You should have the right anchor – one that is the right size for the boat, that is made to work reliably based on the bed where it will rest, and it must be set properly with the appropriate supporting materials.

An anchor may weigh anywhere from 5 lbs to upwards of 2,000 lbs for non-commercial boats. Knowing how heavy an anchor should be is dependent on factors such as boat length, type of seabed/floor, type of boat. Weather conditions also play a role in determining the appropriate anchor size and type.

Right up there with life jackets, an anchor is a significant piece of safety hardware. Leaving the dock without an anchor is sheer lunacy and you’d be surprised at the number of times this actually happens. Always check to make sure there’s an anchor on board and, if you’re a prudent, savvy boater, you won’t leave the dock without two anchors.

Anchor Size Chart

Because folks like an instant answer, we’ve provided this anchor-sizing table as a resource. However, keep reading for more specific information and factors that will impact your final selection of an anchor. You’ll even see why we recommend having multiple anchors on your boat!

This chart provides information on suitable anchor sizes and types for different sized boats. Use the chart as a resource and in conjunction with the anchor manufacturer’s guidelines. 

Different Types of Boat Anchors

Below, we'll dive into several different types of boat anchors and explain a bit about them. This will help you to understand why some are not useful on larger vessels.

Plough Anchor

A plough anchor slightly resembles a pickaxe in that it has a one-pointed penetration point at the end of the shank. Plough anchors can be hinged or unhinged.

With a hinged plough anchor, the shank can swing back and forth from the giant single, spade-shaped fluke. The hinge allows the chain to have a broader scope of motion. Hinged plough anchors receive mixed results from boaters. Some people think the hinge compromises the integrity of the anchor; others feel the opposite.

Unhinged plough anchors combine the angled, fluke design and weight of the overall anchor to hold a boat effectively. They set fast and are not often impacted by tides or the wind. The unhinged plough anchor will stow easily on common anchor rollers. 

Regardless of hinged or unhinged, the spade-like fluke works well in hard, sandy, muddy, and weedy bottoms. If the bottom is too smooth or loose, a plough anchor may have the tendency to drag on a too-smooth bottom. 

Folding Grapnel Anchor

Perfect for inland and short-term use in areas with little current, a folding grapnel anchor looks like an opened flower with four petals. These four tines can hook to craggy, jagged bottoms, heavy weeds, coral, and stone. They are typically made of galvanized steel which has ample weight and is rust-resistant. 

To use a folding grapnel, prior to putting it in the water, the petal-like grapnels are laid flat. Then a centerpiece is twisted into place. This locks the four tines in an outward position, perfect for gripping.

Typically, a grapnel is used by smaller boats, jet skis, and dinghies. Some boats have a grapnel on board for use as an emergency anchor.

Mushroom Anchor

As the name suggests, a mushroom anchor is shaped like the familiar fungus upside down. Best for waters with a delicate, sandy seabed, the mushroom anchor’s round head becomes buried in the sand. 

They serve as ballast for smaller boats as well as kayaks and canoes. Some are vinyl-coated so as to minimize scratches and scrapes to the boat’s finish. 

Extremely large mushroom anchors are actually used to secure oil rigs, lightships, and dredges, as they become deeply embedded into the seabed and have terrific holding power.

Spade With Roll Bar Anchor

A newly engineered anchor, spades with roll bars offer extra holding power. The fluke’s weight rolls the anchor around the roll-bar so as to pivot the shank’s end.

These anchors tend to dig in fast and securely. Because of the roll bar, the spade anchors with this feature are not ideal for stowing on bow rollers. 

Reef Anchor

Typically made out of aluminum, a reef anchor is uniquely flexible so as to be releasable from the anchored position. The tines actually bend so the anchor works well on rock bottoms, jetties, and reefs. That is because, with the right amount of pressure, the tines bend enough to slip free from the bottom. 

Lightweight and easily stowed, the reef anchor is sometimes handmade and welded by do-it-yourself boaters. Watching a few reef anchor videos on YouTube is a good way to see exactly how these unique anchors work and how to DIY one for your own boat.

One distinction of a reef anchor is that often rather than hoisting them back up when you’re ready to leave, you simply drive the boat forward. This motion pulls the anchor enough to bend the tines, releasing it from its lodging. Don’t forget to bend the tines back into place before you use them the next time!

Claw Anchor / Bruce Anchor

Because they are simply constructed, claw anchors tend to be less expensive than other anchor styles. Shaped like a hand grip, the anchor may tip any which way when deployed and properly set. 

Originally designed to secure oil rigs in the North Sea, smaller versions are constructed of high-grade steel and suitable for most seabeds. A claw anchor is very suitable for an anchor roller platform for convenient stowing, ease of access, and use.

Compared to a plough anchor, a claw anchor will have a wider scoop shape. Like a plough anchor, it isn’t as effective on loose sand bottoms as it is on hard sand, muddy, and even rocky sea bottoms.

Danforth Anchor / Fluke Anchor

Somewhat similar to the plough anchor, because it swings or hinges (at a point called the tripping ring), the fluke anchor’s flukes look like two tall triangles secured to a rod perpendicular to the shaft. This rod, known as the stock, extends beyond each of the triangular flukes.

Referred to as a Danforth or lightweight anchor as well, the fluke anchor is by far the most popular type of anchor. Smaller boats will often use a fluke anchor as their one and only anchor. A fluke anchor is lightweight which is always nice. 

Because it folds flat, it stows nicely and neatly. Flukes anchor well in both mud and sand but not so much in rocky and grassy beds. This is because of the stock – the long metal rod that connects the two flukes. It extends beyond the flukes. The two end points of the rod are prone to fouling on both the rocks and the anchor rode.

For a rough seabed, the gap that is present between the flukes enables better grip-ability. The flukes’ orientation is changeable; however, 30 degrees is the angle recommended for best grip success.

Wing Anchor

A solid one-piece design makes the wing anchor a very popular choice for boat manufacturers’ standard equipment. It has excellent holding power, better than that of a plough anchor, and sets easily on most bottom types. Wing anchors will fit most bow rollers and are also self-launching.

Because a wing anchor has a higher ratio of holding power to weight, boaters can get away with a less weightier anchor than other plow anchors. 

What Factors Do I Need to Consider When Buying A Boat Anchor?

The primary factors affecting an anchor’s suitability for a specific boat includes the size of that boat, the type of boat, and the environment in which the anchor will be used, including the seabed or lake floor and the current. Other considerations include wind conditions and the actual type of anchor.

Most anchors come with size guidelines for use supplied by the manufacturer of the anchor. Make sure you pay attention to this. When in doubt, it is usually a good idea to go up in size. Erring on choosing the larger size when it comes to anchors is rarely an error. 

Seriously, don’t skimp on size. Take it up a size (or two) and know that you’re purchasing extra peace of mind. This will make sleep come a bit easier as you’re rolling back and forth in your bunk when the wind begins to howl your first night away from the dock.

Anchors have a variety of features or factors that make them different from one another in terms of suitability for a boat. Let’s take a look at each of those factors next.

Your boat’s specifications including length and weight (as well as design type) influence the kind of anchor you will need to use. Boats may be the same length but vastly different in weight so boat length alone should not be considered. A boat that weighs 10,000 pounds that is 30’ in length will require more anchor than another 30’ boat that is only 6,000 pounds. 

Review the anchor size chart we have included in this article. Consider boat size and weight of the boat too.   Always check with the anchor manufacturer’s recommendations too. 

Anchor Weight

Relative to the size of the boat, an anchor may be of lighter weight or heavier weight. Measured in pounds, anchors can weigh from 5 lbs (for a jon boat or small skiff/dinghy) to hundreds of pounds for a large recreational boat (sailboat, cabin cruiser) in the 100+’ range.

An anchor must be light enough to be lifted by a person (or anchor lift) from the bottom of the floor. It should be able to be tossed overboard without being so cumbersome as to compromise the boater’s safety. The anchor must be heavy enough to handle the upward pull from the boat.

These days, as anchor design has improved, anchor weight isn’t always the predominant factor, but it certainly remains an important one.

Seabed Type

Because people use watercraft in so many different environments, some discussion of seabeds is needed. Seabeds can be sandy. They can be muddy. Others will be rocky. Others will be weedy. A nice, hard sandy bottom is a terrific place for most anchors to dig securely. 

For boaters who spend time in shallow estuaries or at river deltas, muddy seabeds are the norm. Often, beneath the soft mud, there is a layer of clay or hard-packed sand. This second layer is good because it gives the anchor something to bite into. 

If an anchorage is comprised of a thick, soft, muddy bottom, this can present a problem. It’s challenging for an anchor to dig and take hold in deep mud, leading to dragging which is something no one wants to have happen.

The penetration of the anchor is what fastens it to the floor. Hard sand bottoms are ideal for penetration. Weedy bottoms and soft mud floors are less than ideal for gripping. When gripping is challenged, having a weightier anchor is crucial.

Before making an anchor purchase or when checking the anchor before heading out, give some thought to where you’ll be anchoring and what the seabed is going to be like. 

Holding Power

Holding power is a rating system for anchors. Holding power measures the ability of an anchor to hold a specific weight. Because of the physics of boats on water and the energy that a boat pulling against water can create, holding power needs can fluctuate.

While a boat may be fine on a serene day on the water, the holding power needs might double or triple for that same boat when skies turn dark, winds howl, and water churns violently.

Essentially, holding power ratings result from measuring the pull force an anchor should withstand to keep a certain sized boat in place. Different anchors dig differently. Bottoms of bodies of water vary widely. Anchor shapes fluctuate purposefully. Digging, bottom type, anchor shape. They all affect the tenacity of an anchor’s holding power. 

What is the Recommended Anchor Line Length?

A good rule of thumb is that the length of the line should be at least seven to ten times the depth of the water where you are setting anchor. Anchoring in 10’ of water? Plan on having 70 – 100 feet of anchor line in place.

What is Anchor Rode?

The system that connects the anchor to the boat is collectively referred to as anchor rode. The integrity and sturdiness of the mooring depends on the integrity and sturdiness of the anchor rode. 

The length of the rode is impacted by the upward pull on the anchor. If the boat is directly above the anchor (less rode), then the energy of the boat is going to yank the anchor more easily from its grip. 

With more rode, the energy on the line and chain is distributed and less intense so there is a gentler pull on the anchor. Again, take the depth of the water and multiply it by 7 to 10 times in order to gauge the length of your anchor rode.

More rode typically means better holding. That is because a horizontal pull of the anchor is much much better than a vertical pull. Think of how when you weigh anchor, you get as close to it as possible. 

There is less rode and you’re able to pull the anchor up more easily. When you want your anchor to hold, give it plenty of rode. Otherwise, your anchor may lift up off the bottom or at the very least drag along the bottom.

Does the Weight of an Anchor Matter?

Aside from the previously mentioned weight considerations noted relative to boat length and weight, , one aspect of weight to consider is not the weight of just one anchor but two. It’s a very good idea to have one substantial anchor for normal to rough conditions. 

Having a second anchor, lighter and simpler in design, used for calm water and as a backup anchor is wise. An extra anchor, one of a different weight and/or different type, is a good boating practice.

Do I Need a Chain for my Anchor?

Unless you are a kayaker or on a very small body of water, a chain should be a part of your anchor system. The chain is highly critical for several reasons. 

An anchor with a chain sets much faster and more securely. This happens because the weight of the chain pulls down on the anchor shank. Chains also help the rode lay horizontally, as opposed to being pulled upward, loosening the anchor. 

Chains are protective of the rope (nylon or otherwise, helping avoid sharp things like reefs that can cut the line, resulting in a lost anchor and a boat adrift.

Wrapping It Up

When the need arises, having an anchor that is reliable, sturdy, and correctly deployed can provide peace of mind that is truly priceless. For this reason, anchor size definitely matters. Never skimp on a too-small anchor (or anchors) for your boat, whether you own the boat, or are borrowing it or renting it. 

Check to make sure there’s an anchor on board every time. When borrowing or renting, inspect the anchor to make certain it’s suitable for the location where you’re likely to anchor and for the size of the boat.

As noted previously, when in doubt with anchor size, go up. Increase the weight of the anchor. Be a prudent boater by recognizing the critical safety and security role that is played by your anchor. Respect size and type of anchor for the various seabed environments in which you’ll be boating.

73 Basic Dutch Phrases for Your Next Trip to Netherlands 🇳🇱

Learn essential Dutch phrases for a smooth trip to the Netherlands. Perfect for travelers looking to connect with locals and enrich their experience.

Win a $500 Flight!

Embark on the adventure of a lifetime! Enter our Dream Journey Sweepstakes for a chance to win a $500 travel voucher, redeemable with any major US airline. Whether it's sandy beaches, bustling cities, or tranquil mountains, your dream destination is just an email away!*

You may also like...

Cost to Charter a Yacht in Turkey

Explore yacht charter costs in Turkey for a dream vacation. Find prices for Fethiye, Bodrum, Marmaris & tips on saving. Ideal guide for travelers.

How To Find a Yacht Job With ZERO Experience

Learn how to land a yacht job with no experience. From STCW certification to crafting the perfect resume, this guide covers essential steps for aspiring yacht crew.

10 Best Online Stores For Boat Parts

Find top boat parts online! Our guide lists the best stores like Wholesale Marine & Marine Engine for quality boat accessories & essentials.

Types of Boat Steering Systems (Pros, Cons, Pricing)

Explore the best boat steering systems, their pros, cons, & pricing for your next trip. Find the perfect fit for safety & smooth sailing. Ideal for travelers.

What Size Trolling Motor For 24’ Pontoon Boat?

Find the perfect trolling motor size for your 24’ pontoon boat with our expert tips on shaft length and thrust requirements for smooth sailing.

How Much Are Malibu Boats?

Explore Malibu boats' prices & features for luxury, watersports, & cruising. Learn why these vessels are a premium investment for enthusiasts & travelers.

The travel site  inspired by travelers and locals alike. Find amazing destinations, unique trip ideas, the best hotels, and most comfortable resorts.

Anchor Weight for Boat: Choosing the Right Size for Optimal Stability

by Emma Sullivan | Aug 9, 2023 | Sailing Adventures

Short answer anchor weight for boat: The appropriate anchor weight for a boat depends on various factors such as the size and type of the boat, prevailing weather conditions, and bottom conditions. Generally, a good rule of thumb is to have an anchor weighing around 1 pound per foot of boat length. However, it is crucial to consult manufacturer recommendations and local laws for specific guidance on choosing the right anchor weight for your boat.

Anchor Weight for Boats: A Comprehensive Guide

When it comes to boating, the anchor is an essential piece of equipment that ensures your boat stays securely in place. However, choosing the right anchor weight can sometimes be confusing and overwhelming. To help you navigate through this decision-making process, we have put together a comprehensive guide on anchor weights for boats – offering professional advice with a witty and clever twist.

1. Importance of Anchor Weight:

First things first, let’s understand why anchor weight matters in the first place. The primary purpose of an anchor is to hold your boat in position, even during adverse weather conditions or strong currents. The weight of the anchor plays a crucial role in determining its holding power. A heavier anchor will provide better stability and resistance against movements caused by wind or water currents.

2. Factors to Consider:

Now that we know why anchor weight is important, let’s dive into the factors you should consider before making your purchase:

a) Boat Size: One of the most significant factors influencing your choice of anchor weight is the size of your boat. Smaller vessels typically require lighter anchors, while larger boats need heavier ones to counteract their increased buoyancy.

b) Bottom Conditions: The type of seabed or bottom conditions where you plan to drop anchor are key determinants as well. For example, sandy or muddy bottoms may require lighter anchors compared to rocky or grassy areas where more holding power is necessary.

c) Expected Weather Conditions: If you often venture out into rough waters with unpredictable weather patterns, it’s crucial to opt for a heavier anchor that can withstand powerful winds and current fluctuations.

d) Anchor Design: Different types of anchors have varying holding capacities based on their design features. Traditional fluke anchors work well in sandy bottoms but may struggle in weeds or grassy areas. On the other hand, plow-style anchors excel at gripping different types of bottoms but might be bulkier and require more weight to function effectively.

3. Anchor Weight Recommendations:

To provide you with an idea of suitable anchor weights for various boat sizes, here are some general recommendations:

– Small Boats (under 20 feet): Anchors weighing between 6-10 pounds should suffice in most conditions.

– Medium Boats (20-35 feet): Aim for anchor weights of 10-20 pounds, depending on factors such as weather conditions and bottom type.

– Large Boats (over 35 feet): Opt for heavier anchors weighing between 20-40 pounds or more, considering the size and weight of your vessel.

Remember, these recommendations serve as a starting point, and it’s always best to consult manufacturer guides or speak with experienced boaters for specific anchor weight suggestions based on your unique circumstances.

4. Key Tips and Tricks:

Now that you have a better understanding of anchor weights, here are some witty tips and tricks to keep in mind:

a) Be “Anchormatic”: Make sure to select an anchor that is appropriate for your boat size. Being overly optimistic about your boat’s capabilities might leave you feeling adrift – literally!

b) Test Your Anchor: Before relying solely on your new purchase, perform a test drop in calm waters to assess its holding power. This way, you can make any necessary adjustments or seek alternatives if it doesn’t meet expectations.

c) Extra Chain or Rope: Consider carrying additional chain or rope to enable greater flexibility in anchoring options. You never know when those unexpected stops at picturesque coves will turn into extended stays!

d) Always Securely Tie Off: Tying off the anchor line correctly is crucial! Avoid becoming the butt of boating jokes by ensuring your knots can withstand even Neptune’s fury.

e) Embrace Your Inner Inspector Gadget: Utilize modern anchoring technology like GPS tracking systems or remote-controlled windlasses to save time and effort while maintaining a firm grip on reality.

By arming yourself with this comprehensive guide, you are now ready to weigh anchor confidently and embark on your boating adventures. Remember, the cornerstone of successful anchoring lies not only in choosing the appropriate weight but also being mindful of other crucial factors affecting its performance. Happy sailing!

How to Determine the Ideal Anchor Weight for Your Boat

Are you tired of your boat drifting away every time you drop anchor? Determining the ideal anchor weight for your boat is crucial to keep it securely in place while you relax and enjoy your time on the water. In this guide, we will dive deep into the intricacies of selecting the perfect anchor weight, ensuring a hassle-free boating experience.

When it comes to determining the ideal anchor weight, several factors come into play. These factors include the size and type of your boat , water conditions, bottom type, and windage. Let’s break down these elements one by one to help you make an informed decision.

Firstly, consider the size and type of your boat . The larger the vessel, the more significant the anchor weight required. A general rule of thumb is that for boats under 20 feet in length, a 5-10 pound anchor should suffice. For larger boats ranging from 20 to 40 feet, increase the weight to around 15-25 pounds. As you venture into even bigger vessels above 40 feet in length, opt for anchors weighing between 30-80 pounds depending on their displacement.

Next up, take a close look at water conditions. If you frequently operate your boat in calm waters with minimal currents or tides, a lighter anchor may be suitable. However, if you often find yourself navigating rough seas or encountering strong currents and winds, opting for a heavier anchor is advisable as it will provide better holding power.

Considerate evaluation of bottom types cannot be overlooked either when choosing an ideal anchor weight. Different bottom compositions like sandy beaches or rocky seabeds require different designs and weights for effective anchoring. Sand typically offers good hold with lighter anchors due to its soft consistency while harder surfaces like rocks necessitate heavier anchors that can dig deep to secure firmly.

We’ve covered size considerations; we’ve discussed identifying favorable water conditions and analyzing bottom types – now let’s discuss windage! Windage refers to the surface area of your boat that is exposed to the wind , causing it to move and drift. The higher the windage, the heavier the anchor weight required. Boats with a higher profile, significant superstructures, or tall masts will experience greater wind pressure. To counteract this force effectively, you’re going to need a more substantial anchor.

To further refine your decision-making process, consult reliable anchoring charts specific to your boat’s manufacturer or talk to fellow boating enthusiasts who have similar vessels. Cross-referencing experiences and using these resources will provide invaluable insights into optimal anchor weights for specific boat models and make your choice even more accurate.

Remember, determining the ideal anchor weight is not an exact science but rather a blend of calculations and practical judgment. By considering factors such as boat size/type, water conditions, bottom type, windage, and consulting relevant resources, you are well on your way to finding that perfect anchor weight for your beloved vessel.

So go ahead – cast off with confidence knowing that your boat will stay securely anchored wherever you decide to drop down. No more drifting adventures or unexpected excursions into uncharted waters – sail smoothly while relishing every moment on board!

Step-by-Step Process for Calculating Anchor Weight for Boats

When it comes to boating, one of the most critical aspects to consider is anchor weight. Having the appropriate anchor weight is essential for securing your boat in place and preventing it from drifting away. But how do you determine the ideal anchor weight for your boat? In this blog post, we will provide you with a step-by-step process that will guide you through calculating anchor weight like a pro.

Step 1: Determine Your Boat’s Length and Type

The first step in calculating anchor weight is to determine your boat’s length and type. Different boat types have different buoyancy levels, which directly affect their requirements for staying anchored. For instance, a small fishing boat may require a lighter anchor compared to a larger yacht. Understanding your boat’s specifications is crucial because it helps you gauge its size and subsequently estimate how much holding power you’ll need.

Step 2: Estimate Water Conditions

Water conditions play a significant role in determining the required anchor weight. Rough waters or strong currents necessitate heavier anchors to ensure optimal grip on the seabed. On the other hand, calm waters may allow for lighter anchors but still require adequate holding power to keep your vessel stable.

Make sure to check weather reports and consult local seasoned boaters or marina staff about any specific water conditions that could impact anchoring requirements in your area.

Step 3: Consider Boat Weight

Boat weight is another crucial factor when determining anchor weight. The general rule of thumb is that boats weighing less than 20 feet typically require an anchor that weighs between half and one pound per foot of boat length. However, this can vary depending on factors such as windage (wind resistance) and anticipated loads (e.g., passenger count).

For larger vessels exceeding 20 feet, experts recommend increasing the anchor’s weight proportionally while also considering other variables like hull design and wind resistance.

Step 4: Account for Bottom Types

Different bottom types – sand, rocks, mud, or grass – require different anchor types and weights to ensure a secure hold. For example, sandy bottoms might call for a fluke-style anchor that digs into the sand while muddy or rocky bottoms often necessitate plow-style anchors.

Research the prevalent bottom types in your boating area and consult anchor manufacturers’ recommendations to determine which type of anchor works best for your specific conditions.

Step 5: Safety Factor

To account for unexpected conditions or emergencies, it’s always wise to add a safety factor when calculating anchor weight. Experts often recommend adding around 50% more weight than what was initially determined through the preceding steps. This extra weight acts as an added insurance policy against strong winds, extreme weather conditions, or sudden changes in currents.

Keep in mind that this is just a general guideline; you may need to adjust the safety factor based on your personal comfort level and experiences on the water.

Conclusion:

Calculating anchor weight is crucial for every boat owner who wishes to ensure their vessel remains securely anchored even in adverse conditions. By following these step-by-step instructions and considering factors such as boat length and type, water conditions, boat weight, bottom types, and adding a safety factor, you can confidently determine the appropriate anchor weight like a seasoned boater. Remember that investing time into properly calculating anchor weight enhances both your safety and enjoyment on the water.

Frequently Asked Questions about Anchor Weight for Boats

Welcome to our informative blog post on frequently asked questions about anchor weight for boats! Anchoring is an essential aspect of boating, and finding the right anchor weight can sometimes be confusing. We understand that boat owners often have numerous queries regarding this topic. Grab a cup of coffee, sit back, and let us elucidate all your concerns in a professional yet witty and clever manner.

1. Why is anchor weight important?

Choosing the appropriate anchor weight for your boat is crucial as it directly affects your vessel’s stability and safety while at anchorage. A too light anchor may not hold against strong currents or winds, causing your boat to drift away unexpectedly. Conversely, using an excessively heavy anchor could strain your boat’s deck hardware or even damage it.

2. How do I determine the correct anchor weight for my boat?

There are several factors to consider when determining the ideal anchor weight for your boat. These include the size and displacement of your vessel, prevailing weather conditions in your area, bottom type (sandy, rocky, muddy), and tidal variations. As a general rule of thumb – “When in doubt, go heavier!” It’s better to have more holding power than less.

3. Can I use multiple anchors instead of a single heavy anchor?

Certainly! Using multiple anchors can provide added security and reduce swinging while anchored in high-wind areas or strong tides. This technique is particularly useful if you have limited access to heavyweight anchors or are dealing with challenging bottom conditions.

4. Are there any formulas or guidelines to calculate anchor weight?

While there aren’t any fixed formulas due to varying factors involved (mentioned earlier), some established guidelines can assist you in making a preliminary estimate of the suitable anchor weight range based on the length of your boat:

– For boats under 20 feet: 1kg (or 2lbs) per foot. – For boats between 20-30 feet: 2kg (or 4lbs) per foot. – For boats over 30 feet: 3kg (or 6lbs) per foot.

Remember, these numbers provide a starting point and may need adjusting depending on specific circumstances.

5. Is it better to have too much anchor weight or too little?

While it’s often preferable to err on the side of caution and opt for slightly heavier anchors, using excessively heavy weights can also cause problems. Straining your boat’s equipment or making retrieval challenging are potential issues with overweight anchors. It’s all about finding the sweet spot between safety and practicality.

6. Should I consider different anchor types based on weight?

Yes! Different anchoring situations call for different anchor types . For lightweight boats, smaller fluke-style anchors might be suitable. In contrast, larger vessels may require plow or claw-style anchors for enhanced holding power in diverse seabed conditions. Your local marine supply store or expert boaters can guide you in selecting an adequate anchor type based on weight.

In conclusion, choosing the correct anchor weight for your boat is essential for safe and enjoyable boating experiences. By considering various factors such as boat size, prevailing weather conditions, bottom type, and tidal variations – alongside utilizing established guidelines – you’ll be well-equipped to make an informed decision regarding your anchor weight. Remember: when in doubt, lean towards going heavier rather than lighter! Happy anchoring!

Understanding the Importance of Choosing the Right Anchor Weight for Your Boat

When it comes to boating, there are many factors that need to be taken into consideration to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience. One of these crucial elements is the anchor weight for your boat. While it may seem like a mundane detail, choosing the right anchor weight can make a world of difference in the overall functionality and stability of your vessel.

First and foremost, let’s understand why having an anchor is important in the first place. An anchor serves as a temporary “hold” for your boat , preventing it from drifting away when you want it to stay put. Whether you’re out fishing in calm waters or enjoying a leisurely day at the beach , having an anchor keeps your boat secure and prevents any unwanted drifting or movement.

So, why does choosing the right anchor weight matter? Well, it all boils down to physics. Different boats have varying weights and sizes, and these factors play a significant role in determining the appropriate anchor weight needed to keep them firmly anchored.

If you choose an anchor that is too light for your boat size, you run the risk of it not being able to hold against strong currents or winds. This means that even though you’ve dropped your anchor, your boat might still drift away or become difficult to control. On the other hand, selecting an anchor that is too heavy can lead to unnecessary strain on your vessel’s anchoring system and potentially damage delicate components.

Now that we understand why choosing the correct anchor weight is essential let’s dive into some key considerations when making this decision:

1. Boat Size: The size of your boat has a direct correlation with how much force will be exerted on the anchor by wind or current. Larger boats require heavier anchors as they have more surface area exposed to external forces.

2. Water Conditions: Consider where you’ll be boating most frequently – lakes, rivers or open seas ? Each type of water body presents different challenges such as water depth , tides, currents, and wave action. These factors will influence the appropriate anchor weight needed to ensure a secure hold in specific conditions.

3. Anchor Type: There are various types of anchors available – plow, fluke, claw, and mushroom just to name a few. Each type has its own set of strengths and weaknesses and may require different weights depending on their design.

4. Material: Anchors can be made from steel, aluminum, or even lightweight materials like plastic. The material used will affect the overall weight-to-holding power ratio.

Choosing the right anchor weight is not only about functionality but also safety. You don’t want to find yourself in a situation where your anchor fails to hold, leaving you stranded or at risk of damaging your boat. Additionally, a well-chosen anchor weight ensures peace of mind as you won’t have to constantly worry about your boat drifting away while you’re trying to relax or engage in other activities.

In conclusion, selecting the right anchor weight is vital for ensuring that your boat stays put when you need it most. It’s important to consider factors such as boat size, water conditions, type of anchor , and material before making a decision. By taking these variables into account and investing in the appropriate anchor weight for your vessel, you’ll achieve stability and security every time you drop anchor – allowing for endless adventures on the open water with total peace of mind!

Tips and Tricks to Optimize your Boat’s Anchoring Efficiency with Proper Weights

Title: Tips and Tricks to Optimize your Boat’s Anchoring Efficiency with Proper Weights

Introduction: Anchoring a boat might seem like a straightforward task, but many boaters underestimate the importance of using proper weights to maximize efficiency. By understanding the key factors involved in anchoring and utilizing the right weighting techniques, you can ensure a secure hold for your vessel even in challenging conditions. In this blog post, we will provide you with professional, witty, and clever tips and tricks to help optimize your boat’s anchoring efficiency .

1. Understanding the Importance of Proper Anchoring Weights: Proper weighting is crucial for achieving optimal anchoring efficiency. The weight of the anchor determines its ability to penetrate various seabed types effectively. It also helps counteract any forces from wind, tides, or waves that may cause your boat to drift or drag its anchor .

2. Selecting the Right Anchor Weight: The size and weight of an anchor depend on several factors such as boat size, windage profile, water depth, and seabed conditions. For small boats under 25 feet in length, a general rule of thumb suggests using an anchor weighing around one pound per foot of the boat’s length. However, larger vessels may require heavier anchors for enhanced holding power.

3. Considering Seabed Conditions: Different seabeds require different anchor designs and weights for optimal performance. Sandy or muddy bottoms often necessitate plow-shaped anchors with increased weight distribution and holding power . In contrast, rocky bottoms may benefit from lightweight anchors with sharp flukes that can grip tightly.

4. Implementing Additional Anchor Techniques: To enhance anchoring efficiency further, consider employing additional techniques such as tandem anchors or using multiple short lengths of chain before attaching the rode (line). Tandem anchoring involves adding a second anchor to increase stability – particularly helpful during strong currents or high winds.

5. Utilizing Anchor Swivels: Anchor swivels are essential for minimizing the chances of tangled rode or chain while retrieving the anchor. By allowing seamless rotation, swivels reduce stress on your boat’s bow roller and prevent damage to the anchor line.

6. Distributing Anchor Weight Properly: When setting the anchor , make sure to distribute its weight evenly by hauling in the rode at a steady pace. This prevents excessive strain on your boat’s windlass or manual winch and ensures an efficient hold. Avoid jerky motions that could dislodge the anchor prematurely or ruin its set .

7. Monitoring Anchoring Position: Frequent monitoring of your boat’s exact position relative to the anchor is vital for maintaining safety and optimizing efficiency. Utilize GPS technology or visual reference points on land to verify and correct any drifting caused by changing tides, wind direction, or currents.

8. Regular Maintenance: To keep your anchoring system in peak condition, conduct regular inspections of both your anchor and associated equipment. Look out for signs of corrosion, wear, or damage and replace any worn-out parts promptly to avoid compromising their effectiveness during critical situations.

Conclusion: Achieving optimal anchoring efficiency requires careful consideration of proper weights, understanding seabed conditions, and implementing clever techniques like tandem anchors and swivels. By following these tips and tricks with a touch of wit, you can maximize your boat’s stability while enjoying peace of mind during every anchoring endeavor. Remember, finding the right balance may take some trial and error but investing time into refining your anchorage techniques will undoubtedly pay off in pleasant boating experiences ahead!

Recent Posts

• Sailboat Gear and Equipment
• Sailboat Lifestyle
• Sailboat Maintenance
• Sailboat Racing
• Sailboat Tips and Tricks
• Sailboat Types
• Sailing Adventures
• Sailing Destinations
• Sailing Safety
• Sailing Techniques

• 2024 BOAT BUYERS GUIDE
• Email Newsletters
• Boat of the Year
• 2024 Freshwater Boat and Gear Buyers Guide
• 2024 Boat Buyers Guide
• 2024 Water Sports Boat Buyers Guide
• 2024 Pontoon Boat Buyers Guide
• Cruising Boats
• Pontoon Boats
• Fishing Boats
• Personal Watercraft
• Water Sports
• Boat Walkthroughs
• What To Look For
• Watersports Favorites Spring 2022
• Boating Lab
• Boating Safety

How to Use an Electric Windlass Anchor System

• By Ric Burnley
• June 5, 2024

Anchoring the boat is one of the most intimidating skills to learn for a boat operator. Securing a heavy boat with a rope, chain and anchor in strong current, heavy wind, and crushing waves presents the opportunity for catastrophic failure. A tangled chain, snagged rope or dragged anchor can quickly put the boat and crew in danger. 

And retrieving the anchor presents even more dangers. Pulling the anchor free puts tons of pressure on both the anchor rope and boat. But mostly pulling in the anchor line puts a lot of pressure on bones and muscles. 

Using an electric windlass anchor system to manage the rope, chain and anchor removes some of the work from the process, but doesn’t eliminate the potential for damage and injury. Learning how to use an electric windlass anchor system takes the intimidation out of anchoring the boat. 

What Is an Electric Windlass?

An electric windlass anchor system consists of a motor that turns a wheel to retrieve and deploy the anchor line and chain, called the anchor rode. Unlike a winch , which uses a large drum to reel in line, the windless wheel grips the line and feeds it into an anchor-rode locker. The windless takes less space but a winch is stronger. 

If used or installed incorrectly , a powerful motor turning a metal wheel at high speed under the pressure of a heavy anchor line is a recipe for disaster. But with some safety steps and an understanding of how the system works, a windlass can make boat anchoring significantly easier. 

System Preparation

Like any mechanical device on a boat, the anchor, windlass and rode require regular maintenance and inspection. The anchor is handy for mooring the boat at sea, and essential for securing the boat if the motor loses power. 

Before each trip, I check the anchor rode and electrical connections, and then test the windlass controls by running a few feet of rode through the gypsy. One of most common failure points is the anchor rope or chain jamming the anchor windlass jaws. Before operating the windlass anchor system, be sure the anchor rope isn’t tangled or snagged in the anchor locker. 

Double check the chain stopper pin and windlass brake to keep the anchor rope from accidentally deploying. When I’m using the anchor windlass, I never leave it unattended. A small problem with an electric boat anchor system only takes a moment to turn into a big problem.

Deploying the Anchor

The first step to anchoring is selecting an appropriate location. Before releasing the anchor, check the area is clear of obstructions and other boats and away from navigation channels and hazards. Consider how the current and wind will affect the boat as it swings on the anchor. Then, check the fish finder and chart to determine the bottom composition and choose the correct type of anchor for soft mud, sand or rocks.

The key to safely deploying the anchor is checking the rope , chain and all connections. Frayed rope, rusty chain and faulty knots and links could cause a failure while deploying the anchor. If the anchor rode breaks while at anchor, the boat is set adrift out of control. 

When using an electric windlass to deploy the anchor, it’s crucial to verify that the rope and chain move freely through the windlass and lie loosely in the anchor locker. Inspect the windlass for rope or chain that’s misaligned or pinched in the gypsy.

To deploy the anchor rope, unhook the chain stopper and use the anchor windlass controls to lower the chain and anchor rope. The best electric windlass anchor systems have control switches at the boat’s helm near the windlass. This allows the windlass operator to watch the line and control the windlass to prevent tangles and jams.

Some windlass systems have a free fall setting that allows the anchor to drop without resistance. This is a great feature for anglers looking to precisely anchor over structure. However, the free fall mode will not control the speed the rope moves through the windlass, making it even more important to observe the line and chain for potential tangles.

Once the anchor hits bottom, the rate the rope leaves the anchor locker slows down or goes slack. The formula for anchor scope is seven feet of line for every foot of depth. To properly hold bottom in 10 feet of water, the anchor requires 70 feet of scope. This formula varies depending on the type of anchor, bottom composition and the weather and water conditions. In heavy current and high wind over soft bottom, let out more line to ensure the anchor sticks securely.

Once the anchor is secure and the boat is sitting safely, tie the anchor rope to a bow cleat by wrapping the rope a full turn around the base of the cleat and then crossing the bitter end of the rope around the cleat horns. Never use the windlass brake to secure the rope. The weight of the boat and pressure of the current and wind could cause the rope to jam or slip.

Retrieving the Anchor in Nine Steps

The windlass pays for itself when it’s time to retrieve the anchor. Instead of muscling the anchor rope into the boat, the windlass motor does the hard work. Just like deploying the anchor, the powerful motor and heavy anchor rope offer potential for damage or injury. Here are the steps you should follow to avoid any danger:

• Before untying the anchor rope from the bow cleat, start the boat motor. If the windlass motor fails or the rope jams or breaks, the motor controls the boat until the problem is solved. 
• With one person at the windlass controls and another person at the helm, unwrap the rope from the cleat horns. I leave the rope wrapped around the cleat base to manually control the rope. 
• Bump the boat into gear and motor ahead slowly. With pressure off the line, I unwrap the rope from the cleat and release it to move through the bow bow roller.
• Then, I use the windlass controls to retrieve the line. Maintain communication between the windlass operator and the boat operator. Move the boat ahead to feed line through the windlass. Never use the windlass to pull the boat or break free the anchor. If the anchor is stuck in the bottom, tie the rope off to the bow cleat and use the boat motor to pull the anchor free. 
• Once the anchor is free of the bottom, take the boat out of gear or motor ahead very slowly and retrieve the rest of the line. 
• While retrieving line, observe the line feeding into the anchor locker. Pile the line loosely in the anchor locker so it can dry and it is ready to redeploy.
• When the anchor chain reaches the windlass, slow the retrieve to ensure the rope to chain link passes through the windlass. If the splice sticks in the gypsy, deploy a few inches of rope and realign the chain in the gypsy. 
• When the anchor reaches the surface of the water, slow the retrieve to allow the anchor to lodge in the bow roller without swinging and damaging the boat.
• To prevent the anchor from accidentally deploying, insert the locking pin through the chain and reverse the windlass a couple inches to take pressure off the mechanism. 

Safety Considerations

Using a windlass makes anchoring easier but not simpler. The mechanism takes the work out of lowering and raising the anchor, but the power of the mechanism increases the risk of damage or injury. Always keep in mind that the windlass is a very powerful machine capable of crushing bones and ripping skin. 

Here are some important tips to follow while using an electric windlass:

• Keep hands, feet, long hair and dangling clothes away from the spinning windlass gypsy. Also, keep away from the rope as it feeds through the windlass. 
• If you need to clear rope in the anchor locker or free a jam in the windlass, stop the motor before moving in to work. The windlass operator needs to observe the rope and chain and control the speed of the windlass to maintain proper working pressure on the gypsy and keep the line and chain feeding smoothly through the windlass. 
• Never allow the windlass brake to hold the boat on anchor or secure the anchor rope while underway. Always cleat off the anchor line while the anchor is deployed and be sure to pin the anchor chain while the boat is underway. The windlass brake is only designed to stop the rope and chain, if the brake fails, the anchor could deploy accidentally. 
• Always insert the locking pin when the anchor is stowed and tie off the anchor rope when the anchor is deployed. And stay clear and alert when the windlass is operating. 
• To keep the windlass running properly and further avoid damage or injury, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for maintaining the moving parts and electrical connections. 
• To extend the life of the anchor rode and anchor, allow the rope to dry in a well ventilated anchor locker and wash and clean the chain and anchor between uses. 

Explore Your Electric Windlass Anchor Options

For small boats a windlass is a convenience, for large boats a power anchor system is a necessity. On any boat, a windlass makes the anchor easier and safer to deploy and retrieve. 

A vertical windlass is more powerful but takes up more space. A horizontal windlass requires less deck space, but is more difficult to install. A windlass with a low-profile gypsy and a drum allows the motor to handle heavy rope and chain. The best windlass rope and chain packages use a spliced connection to keep the windlass working correctly. 

What size windlass do I need?

Choosing the correct size windlass depends on the size and weight of the boat and the expected anchoring conditions. Manufacturer guidelines help match the size of the windlass to the boat’s length and weight. However, if you plan to anchor in heavy current, big waves and high wind, using a larger windlass will provide more power to match the anchoring conditions. Another consideration is the physical size of the windlass. Check to make sure the windlass base will fit in the mounting location and the anchor locker will accommodate the anchor rode. 

Do you have to tie off a windlass anchor?

Yes. The windlass is used to deploy and retrieve the anchor rope. It should not be used to pull the boat or secure the anchor. Use the boat motor to propel the boat towards the anchor and use a cleat to secure the anchor rope. When the anchor is retracted, a locking pin keeps it in place so it doesn’t accidentally deploy.

How do I choose an anchor windlass?

Two choices for an anchor windlass: vertical and horizontal. The name refers to the gypsy axle running horizontally or vertically to the boat’s bow. A vertical windlass has the drum or gypsy mounted above deck and the motor and electrical connections protected below deck. A vertical windlass has more power and uses less energy but requires a larger anchor locker. A horizontal windlass, like a Lewmar windlass , has the gypsy and motor mounted above deck. Consult the boat manufacturer’s recommendations to choose a vertical or horizontal windlass.

• More: anchoring , Boating Safety , How-To , Seamanship , Windlass

More How To

The Benefits of GPS Integration

How Boaters Can Stop the Spread of Invasive Species

Boaters Expect More Hurricanes in 2024

U.S. Hurricane Names Selected for 2024

6 Best Boat Trailer Light Kit Options

2024 Jeanneau NC 895 Series 2

Jeanneau DB/37 OB

• Digital Edition
• Customer Service
• Privacy Policy
• Cruising World
• Sailing World
• Salt Water Sportsman
• Sport Fishing
• Wakeboarding

Many products featured on this site were editorially chosen. Boating may receive financial compensation for products purchased through this site.

Copyright © 2024 Boating Firecrown . All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.