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| | :: Building Marblehead - Bill Bradley from New Zealand has commenced building a GOTHIC Marblehead from the board of Frank Russell. This design is a development of Franks IOM design GOTH of which Bill has already built a few. Frank generously provides the plans as a free download Anyone wanting to contact Bill Bradley can email him at [email protected] We will follow the build as Bill progresses through the various stages. Bill had this to say about the build: "I am just getting the frames set up on the base to build the plug. I am intending to build off the plug instead of making a mould as I am experimenting with the cloth layup. Initialy am using a 200g carbon weave with an 80g e glass over for sanding. Am looking at building 4 hulls as there are 4 interested parties including myself."
- Bill is now making the deck - see photo's and his words below: m almost ready to take off the first hull have just f/glassed the deck which will need sanding. carbon. nce the hull is taken off, it can be held in the same cradle and positions of mast, fin can be squared off down to c/line of hull. m intending to have the hull and deck in 3 pieces, ie hull, foredeck and flat rear deck. he bow, stern and bulkhead be made out of 3mm marine ply. " - Bill has completed the plug and is making his final decision on the cloth to use - he says ave made a descision on the materials, although on the expensive side I think they will be the right ones. I have gone with a 125g E glass cloth first, followed by a layer of 155g k1 twill weave carbon, finished off with a fine weave 77g Fglass for sanding. As can be seen in the photos I have added to the plug a small raised area towards the stern as the exit point for the steering arm from the servo. All going well I will remove the deck from the plug tomorrow and do the same for the hull over the weekend. Points to remember when cutting the carbon clothe always use masking tape on the clothe and then cut on he centre of the tape. - Hi guys, I've done it, my first carbon Boat, and not without a few mistakes, mainly in the cutting of the cloth. If you are setting up to cover a plug allow a good 100 mm longer than the length of the hull. It is amazing how much extra is required as the cloth follows the curve of the hull from bow to stern. I always like to trim the cloth on the plug when still green and before removing, as you can get a very true straight line for the gunwhale. However be carefull with the blade you are using and the angle of the line you are cutting on, you can over cut and lose some of your hull or deck. The next test for me is to remove the hull from the plug, I am not going to do this for a day or two until the carbon has hardened some more. Might be a week or two before my next email as i have not got the finbox yet - Bill has had a setback with glassing, but has been honest enough to explain it, which is something we can all learn from - He explains: not fit with my philosophy of keeping costs down and make it simple. - Bill has sent 2 emails - see below glued in 2 x 10mm x 2mm cedar strips to form the gunwhale, I have a carbon rod from the foredeck down to the bottom of the hull to take the loadings on the forestay, the fin box has been trimmed and a carbon skirt at deck level has been fixed in place to to fix the deck down on to so as not to let the water in. I have fixed the ainsheet post, drilled a hole for the rudder tube, and put extra timbers (cedar) at the stern for the deck block and the backstay eye. Have also got blocks either side to take the eyes for the rigging turnbuckles. I have installed two deck timbers to hold the hull at its correct width at deck level, one mid foredeck and one just aft of the mainsht post.As can be seen from the photos I am in the process of installing a mast ram on the raised foredeck, the mast ram in its tube will be on the top of the fin so as to connect with mast above the bearing race at the top of the gooseneck (am doing this as I go so will show details next time. Am thinking that I might run the sheet to the foredeck position for the jib thru a tube in the bulkhead thru to the foredeck . This will help to keep the sheet away from the winch. Also not shown in the photos I have glued a small plastic container on the side of the fin case angled up at 45 degrees to take the battery The container is a 185ml pill container with its top cut off and is positioned just foreward of the circular hatch so as the battery simply drops in. At the bottom of the container I have drilled a hole so as moisture can exit. All up without the bulb and any fittings other than what I have glued to the hull it weighs 790grams. - Bill is getting close to completion, with a couple of alterations - he writes: ave had a major alteration, I have removed the mast ram fin as I am now installing on the mast stump a standard fix to the face of the mast ball bearing race gooseneck similar to ioms. This will enable me to have the ram in a tube under the foredeck. Bill
- Bill has just about got everything finished - Just the electrics to fit and using the rig off his Dibley Marblehead, he will soon be ready for the maiden voyage.
- Bill writes: "
- Bill writes his final thoughts on the build: post, thr one circular 100mm dia hatch. After thoughts have been, a wire surround to prevent the mast ram from falling out and a push button switch activated thru the sticky back on the edge of the cut out in the deck. " |
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Marblehead class swing rig
Discussion in ' General Discussion ' started by Alexandros , Jun 17, 2016 .
Alexandros New Member
Hi to all sailors. Since i am new to Swing rigs, i have two questions. 1) How much should be the angle in degrees between the Jibs boom with the Mains boom for maximum efficiency of the two sails. Some they say that 20" is the optimum is that trough ? becease i found that number big.. 2) With almost an A rig (Luff 205cm ) during the tack at 10-12 knots wind the boat almost stops .My rudder angle is 35" and i followed the designers dimensions, does anybody has something to propose? Bigger rudder maybe , more angle or better ballancing? The boat on my eyes seems to be well ballanced but maybe you propose something else from your experiance. Thanks in advance, Alexandros
keelhauled New Member
You set a swing rig in the same way you set a standard rig: Main boom 5-10 degrees off the centerline, Jib boom 10- 15 degrees off the centerline. Maybe favor the smaller numbers a little. Of course, you'll have to make adjustments for your particular boat. This setup is for close hauled sailing. You don't change the settings for off wind sailing. You just let out the sheet and let the rig swing. In 10-12 knots, your boat should tack easily. You may have a balance problem. Try to find someone local to you that has a swing rig and let them help you set yours up.
Dear Keelhauled, thank you very much for your help. Can you explain to me what you mean ballance problems , because the boat keeps straight lines wonderfully at any angles. Thanks in advance Alexandros
I'm talking about insuring that the center of effort of the sails is correctly oriented to the center of lateral resistance of the hull. If the balance is not correct, the boat has weather or lee helm and/or it just doesn't want to go. It feels like although the wind is blowing, the boat can't get moving. Try moving your mast position forward 1/2". If not, rake the rig forward. If not, see if you can move your jib further from the mast. If those don't work, try moving or raking aft. I still suggest that you get help from someone who can look at your boat and diagnose the problem.
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The Marblehead is a medium-sized yacht providing exciting performance and the ability to handle most sailing conditions if rigged properly. This development class is restricted in overall length and sail area.
The Marblehead is considered the leader in the use of advanced construction materials and techniques.
This class is undergoing a popular resurgence in Sydney with 3 new designs being built for the recent NSW Championship, with 2 of these being home built.
50" long, 800 sq. inches sail area.
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Status of Class: Adopted Administrative Body: IMCA
The Marblehead class (M) is probably the most exciting to sail with its minimal rule structure and modern construction techniques a modern M will usually be made of carbon fibre and kevlar with full carbon rigs. The rules do allow for most boats from the mid 90’s onward to be modernised and still hold their own in current fleets.
This is quite often referred to as the Formula One of Radio Sailing.
- Marblehead Class GBR Fixtures here
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RC Sailboats - Marblehead Class Rigging Details - Does anyone know where I could find, dowload or purchase the rigging details of the Marblehead class model, as I have this type of model (plans) and no rigging details[:@]. ... The yacht club I belonged to had a bunch of model boats and we raced on Friday nights and had a ball. Plan on getting ...
Standing Rigging, part 1. Got a start on the Wampum VM Vintage Marblehead RC Sailboat standing rigging this weekend. Can't do it all until after I varnish the deck, but got the mainsail installed and the boom installed, and a few other things. Here is a nice trick... prop your boat's keel up on the floor so that it is perfectly on its side.
Our conventional shroudless rig kits use Marblehead STOCK sails as standard components. These are available in two different mainsail/headsail proportions i.e. 62%:38% (500/300*) and 59%:41% (475/325*) (* ratios of measured area in square inches). Our yachts are built for the 59%:41% proportion.
The M or Marblehead Class, sometimes called the "50/800", is a medium size high performance development class. It's original concept in the 1930's was to produce the largest model that would conveniently fit in the standard American car of the time. The class is a development class with the main restrictions being a hull length of 50 inches and ...
The SAILSetc range of products for the Marblehead class has been constantly refined since 1978 and provides for everything from a completed boat down to the smallest component part. ... SAILSetc will continue to offer rc installation, rigging, optimisation and measurement for QUARK. SAILSetc foiuls, ballast, spars, fittings and sails provide an ...
Marblehead - Rig kits - for GRUNGE SAILSetc spars and fittings specified by the designer, Brad Gibson, for constructing rigs ideal for this boat. These kits do not contain sails, cord, standing rigging wire, carbon tow, instructions or plans.
It has an 11" keel with the bulb at the bottom and is a canoe stern. Really was a nice sailing boat. Obviously, when they went to the 800 square inches of sail they had to use a deeper keel to allow for the increased sail area. The yacht club I belonged to had a bunch of model boats and we raced on Friday nights and had a ball.
RadioSailingShop : Building Marblehead - SAILSetc DRAWINGS RIG KITS & RIG PLANS BOOM KITS MASTS Alum & Carbon Fibre BOOM SECTIONS VANGS - GOOSENECKS MAST, BOOM & RIGGING PARTS HULL & DECK FITTINGS RUDDERS FINS AND BULBS SAILS & SAILMAKING WINCHES & DRUMS RADIOS SERVOs BATTERIES etc ACCESSORIES, COVERS & MISC. FASTENERS Screws, Bolts, Nuts SPARE PARTS Print your own CATALOGUE FREE Boat ...
Rig Pack contains spars, rigging and fittings sufficient to make one rig. Sails may be supplied with the kit. Please choose your preferred options below.
MM503 Rigging And Fittings For Marblehead Yachts. SKU: MM503 Categories: Model Boat Builder, Plans, Racing Sailing Boats, Sailing Boats & Yachts, Uncategorised. SAVE 10% on Selected Plans! £ 13.50 £ 12.15.
Rig Building Tips: IOM class rules don't allow rotating masts and the masts mostly used are without an internal track. The best mast is 12mm or ½" aluminum tube available at local hardware and metal stores. If you want to invest more you can order from RC yachting accessory dealers as well and save maybe 50g with the rig.
This is my manual on how to build a classic, wooden, radio-controlled sailboat using purchased laser-cut frames. It's 128 pages, and includes almost 200 images and drawings. The latest version is 1.4 and covers how I made my own cast-lead ballasts. The boats shown in this manual are Vintage Marblehead's that have been updated for RC, but the ...
The last two diagrams on that page show clearly what happens with the normal rig on a one metre. When healing, the normal rig causes the mast at the spreaders to be pushed to leeward and forcing the top of the mast to curve back into the wind. The effect of this is to increase the drive in the middle and top portions of the sail exactly what is ...
You set a swing rig in the same way you set a standard rig: Main boom 5-10 degrees off the centerline, Jib boom 10- 15 degrees off the centerline. Maybe favor the smaller numbers a little. Of course, you'll have to make adjustments for your particular boat. This setup is for close hauled sailing. You don't change the settings for off wind sailing.
The Marblehead is a medium-sized yacht providing exciting performance and the ability to handle most sailing conditions if rigged properly. This development class is restricted in overall length and sail area. The Marblehead is considered the leader in the use of advanced construction materials and techniques. This class is undergoing a popular ...
The Marblehead class (M) is probably the most exciting to sail with its minimal rule structure and modern construction techniques a modern M will usually be made of carbon fibre and kevlar with full carbon rigs. The rules do allow for most boats from the mid 90's onward to be modernised and still hold their own in current fleets.
I also remember starting out with the basic triangle for the area, and then going through the rules, line by line, and adding the required drawings. One other thing that caught my attention was the 3/4, 1/2, 1/4 widths in the rules (International). They are a royal pain to stay within, because of the luff curve.
So called "break-back" swing rigs remedy the situation allowing the whole forward yard to pivot. They've been around since the mid to late 80's down here and in Europe and probably other places. I don't see an advantage on a really fast boat like a well designed multihull or mono or multifoiler.
"M" 1930-1990 - A Design History of the Marblehead Class of Model Yacht. Quick Overview. by Russell Potts. ISBN: 1 873148 04 6. ... Spars, Rigging, Rig Kits Toggle. Mast & Boom Spars; Standing Rigging; Running Rigging; Rig Kits; Sail related Toggle. Sail Identification; Sail Making Materials; Rig Storage;
Mr. Clough is the designer of the 50/800 Class. Model yachting has been growing in this country slowly but surely for a good many years, but since the introduction of the Marblehead 50/800 Class it has gone ahead by leaps and bounds. Never since model yachts have been sailed has a class met with such instant favor and popularity as this class has.
Offering miscellaneous Pekabe Model Yacht Fittings, the finest RC model boat fittings for over forty years. ... Marblehead Fittings. 95.9% positive feedback. 21K items sold. 291 followers. Share. Contact. Save Seller. Categories. ... PEKABE 455 High Strength Deck Rigging Screw Eye Bolt Model Sail Boat Yacht R/C. $13.95. PEKABE 407 Punched Strip ...
Marblehead. The M or Marblehead Class, sometimes called the "50/800", is a remote-controlled high performance development class. It's original concept in the 1930's was to produce the largest model that would conveniently fit in the standard American car of the time. The class has been highly developed over the years to produce a high ...
Marblehead Rigging Wire & Rope. Our business is repairing, replacing, servicing and modifying standing rigging, running rigging, lifelines, spars and deck gear. We are service orientated and factory trained. We'll come to your boat (even on the water) or you can bring your problems to us. No problem is too big. Or too small.