Shipping methods.
When it comes to sailing, having the right equipment can make all the difference in the world. Among the crucial components of a sailboat, the self-tailing winch stands out as a true workhorse. In this comprehensive guide, we'll delve into the world of self-tailing winches, exploring their meaning, function, and how they can enhance your sailing experience.
Let's start with the basics. A self-tailing winch is a mechanical device used on sailboats to handle the lines or ropes (commonly referred to as sheets) that control the sails. Its unique design allows for easier and more efficient sail adjustment.
Here's a simplified explanation of how a winch operates:
Winches are versatile tools used in various industries and recreational activities, from off-roading and sailing to construction and rescue operations. Understanding how they work ensures safe and efficient use in different scenarios.
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Winch on a sail boat close up and sailor pulling the rope.
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1. hoisting sails.
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Anyone who has been on the bitter end of the sheet when a big genoa starts to fill—whipping and shaking with terrifying violence—knows how important it is to have a winch to convert that flailing energy to forward propulsion.
Winches are to sailboats what the inclined plane was to the Egyptians.
They make the difficult easy, place the impossible within reach.
The equivalent of a dozen or more men needed to heave on a square rigger’s halyard or brace is represented on a modern sailboat by a small, precision-made, cylindrical machine packed with levers and gears.
The refinement of gearing and the development of smooth-operating self-tailers has promoted modern winches from two-man to one-man workhorses with amazing power.
Their only negative is their proclivity to induce fidgety idlers to rotate them mindlessly, just to hear the pawls ratchet. These idlers usually can be broken of this annoying habit by shouting, “Winchclicker! Winchclicker!! Winchclicker!!!” If that fails, they generally are put ashore (if in harbor) or put to death (if on a long sea voyage).
Let’s take a close look at two common sizes of winches. They’re all expensive, because they are well-made precision equipment. They’re also among the most frequently retrofitted items; it’s worth repeating here that an oft-heard saying aboard a lot of sailboats is that the winches they came with are not big enough.
In the two categories selected, these winches are from six manufacturers—Andersen (Denmark), Antal (Italy), Barton (England), Harken (United States), Lewmar (England) and Setamar (Germany).
Small Winches The first category is very small winches. Those represented in this evaluation are among the smallest made by five of the manufacturers. One maker, Antal, makes excellent small winches in several sizes, but could not supply one for testing.
Small, single-speed winches, either with a handle or simply snubbing winches, are invaluable on small boats, for halyards, jib sheets, spinnaker sheets, reefing gear, vangs, etc., and handy, too, for many tasks aboard larger boats. Small winches do not come with the self-tailing mechanism; most manufacturers (Andersen is the exception) start the self-tailers with #16s, which also happens to be the minimum size for two-speed gearing.
Small winches are said to have a gear ratio of 1:1. That means they are direct drive. The only power advantage is that provided by a winch handle. It’s simple leverage, with two sets of pawls (one pair to restrain the drum; the other pair to permit the handle to ratchet freely). One turn of the crank is one turn on the drum. On a small boat, the single-digit power ratio provided by the handle often is ample for sheets. Non-geared winches take in line rapidly. Such winches often are used for halyards on somewhat larger boats. (The power ratio is the length of the handle divided by the radius of the drum.)
Snubbing winches, which do not accept a handle, turn in one direction only. They need only a single set of ratchet pawls. If enough wraps are applied, snubbing winches give the user time to get a new grip or to simply hold the line lightly while friction between the drum and the line takes the load.
They provide little mechanical advantage, but snubbing winches facilitate a good utilization of intermittent muscle power, They also have good line retrieval speed, which always is a consideration when dealing with winches.
Simple and trouble-free, they are of great value when the line load is no more than one’s weight or pulling strength. A halyard can be sweated up very taut by the “heave and hold” method of pulling hard on the line perpendicular to the mast with one hand while grabbing slack on the winch with the other hand.
With either small, direct-drive winches with handles or simple snubbers, the line retrieval rate is an undiluted derivative of the drum diameter, i.e. one revolution of the winch hauls in a length of line equal to the drum’s diameter multiplied by that popular symbolic 16th letter in the Greek alphabet. As a practical matter, line in equals line out.
Because they are simple devices, these small winches were not tested.
The Roaring 40s The second category is the very popular “Number Forties.” Winches are given numbers that correspond to their lowest and most powerful gear ratio. The power ratio of a geared winch is the length of the handle divided by the radius of the drum, multiplied by the gear ratio.
The big winches in this test are Andersens, Antals, Bartons, Harkens, Lewmars and Setamars. We tried to include the Australian-made Murray bottom-action winches, but could not find a U.S. distributor.
The versatile #40s—or their close equivalents—serve as genoa sheet winches on 30- to 35-foot boats, for spinnaker sheets and mainsheets on boats up to 48′, and for halyards, topping lifts, vangs, etc., on much larger sailboats.
The #40s in this collection are all two-speed. Three-speed winches usually are found on racing boats; they come in bigger sizes and get complicated and expensive.
All but one of these winches are self-tailing. In the beginning, several decades ago, self-tailing winches were troublesome…as is usual with most new things. Now perfected, the self-tailing mechanisms represent the only way to go on either racing or cruising boats.
Because winches are such beautifully made gear and rarely get worn out, marine consignment shops across the country are clogged with standard winches—mostly Barients—that once were highly coveted (as well as highly priced). We know of at least one instance in which dozens of perfectly usable standard winches were sold as scrap metal.
There even are a few early-model self-tailers (from various manufacturers) showing up now in the consignment shops; they’re okay for moderate duty but, generally speaking, are not good buys because the self-tailing mechanisms often are not as refined as those on current models. In plain English, that means they slip under heavier loads. Many also have abrasive drum surfaces that devour line.
The Test The Practical Sailor test, designed to establish efficiency ratings for winches, involves mounting each winch on the workbench.
To measure the force exerted, a 15″ torque wrench was used instead of a standard 10″ handle. (The extra length of the torque wrench required adjustments in the calculations.)
Sta-Set X, a modern, rather slippery line, was used, with some of the early tests repeated using Regatta braid, a fuzzy-finish line. The theory that because of varying friction a slippery line might produce different numbers than a fuzzy line proved specious.
At the other end of the bench, a tripled length of 1/2″ shock cord held by two eye straps provided the resistance. Shackled to the shock cord was a carefully calibrated Dillon dynamometer with a handy red max needle. The Sta-Set was attached to the other shackle on the dynamometer and thence to the winch. Four wraps were used. A minimum of three generally is recommended for all but extreme loads. The exception was the Setamar, which requires just one partial wrap of at least 220°.
Pulls of 10 and 20 pounds were for the trimmer easy work. Additional pulls of 30 pounds produced some sweat. A pull of 40 pounds probably would be regarded by an average person as a maximum effort; 50 pounds would be something only a bench-pressing girlfriend would do without making some kind of noise.
The numerous pulls produced figures whose averages indicate how close each winch came to meeting its power ratio.
An additional step in the testing was to determine how easy it is to free the line from the self-tailer and ease the line, as one would do in easing a sheet or halyard when coming off a beat onto a reach or run. In the case of the Setamar, this becomes complicated and is controlled by the handle.
The Results First of all, the fact that the smooth-skinned Sta-Set performed the same as fuzzy Regatta braid indicates that the gripping action of the self-tailing mechanisms on all of these winches probably is no longer at issue. There were difficulties when self-tailers were first introduced; that was before it was recognized that the diameter of the drum and the base diameter of the self-tailer were very critical dimensions.
Click here to view the Winches Value Guide .
There appeared to be no slippage. However, the sharpness of the teeth on the self-tailers’ disks may well affect wear on the line.
Dealing first with the small winches, there are lots of places on small boats where the ultra-simple Barton snubbing winch (about $50) would be useful. The almost equally simple Lewmar #6 ($92 in anodized aluminum) has an efficient mechanism; it also comes (for more money) in chromed or polished bronze. The #6 Harken ($108 for aluminum) turns on sleeved bearings and is the smoothest operating.
For small-boat sheets or bigger-boat halyards and vangs, the small single-speed Setamar ($364) makes eminently good sense. The ability to ease a sheet or halyard by turning the handle in the opposite direction, before freeing the line entirely, constitutes, in our opinion, a valuable safety factor. As was pointed out in an earlier, more detailed review (in the February 15, 1997 issue), the drum-less Setamar winches are very ingenious and may represent the design approach of the future. However, they currently are too expensive.
The Andersen #6 ($102), all-stainless, beautifully made, with Andersen’s ribbed drum and needle bearings, commands categorization as top-of-the-heap and Best Buy.
Summarizing now about the large winches, it’s tough to choose between Andersen and Lewmar. But first, let’s review the others.
The little Barton G23 is not comparable with the big 40s. It was included not only because it’s Barton’s biggest winch, but also because it may point to the future. An “Ugly Ducking”, if there ever was one (see photo), the Barton is made largely of reinforced plastic (including plastic needle bearing), but with a stainless steel axle, pawls and planetary drive gears made of sintered stainless, and a stainless sleeve on the plastic drum. The winch is a powerhouse and, along with being very light and corrosion free, requires almost no service. An occasional flushing with an optional light hit of WD40 is all it needs. It’s a $400 workhorse.
Although handsome winches and very finely made, both the Harken and Antal suffer from what appear to be unnecessarily complicated innards that produce some fall-off in efficiency. They suffer especially in their geared high speed modes and make the initial retrieval of line quite slow compared with the Setamar, Andersen and even the Lewmar.
In addition, the Practical Sailor tests revealed that the Harken drum surface caused abrasion on the Sta-Set line that was easily detected visually after only three or four “pulls.” The Harken and Antal have the most abrasive drums.
The Setamar? It’s so different, it’s difficult to compare with the more conventional #40s. It has a number of strong points. The principal ones are that it retrieves line fast (as fast as the Andersen) and easing of a loaded line can be controlled very safely with the handle (after shifting the top ring). Other benefits are that no wraps are needed; it is small and very lightweight, and line wear is the lowest of all.
The Setamar negatives: It is not a thing of beauty; is complicated to strip and clean (which it requires often); takes some “getting used to,” and it is far too costly.
Both the best and the Best Buy is the Andersen, but there’s almost no gap between it and the Lewmar.
The Lewmar, a first-rate value, is part of a line that was completely redesigned a few years ago to simplify the gearing, reduce the number of parts and make the winch both stronger and easier to service.
The Lewmar ranks first in efficiency, a hair ahead of the Andersen, and is easy to disassemble. If it had a drum as good as the Andersen, it would be a toss-up.
The Andersen has a direct drive high gear that retrieves line fast, a good low gear mechanism that may come second to the bearing-packed Harken, but its real forte is the polished stainless steel drum. The drum, a masterpiece of metal-working, is ribbed, which produces very little abrasion because it moves the coiled line up the drum much better than an abrasive drum. The drum should last virtually forever.
A peculiarity of the Andersen is that when the line is heavily loaded, easing the line can be a bit jerky as the line skips from rib to rib. Although initially disconcerting, it is not even a minor problem.
There’s nothing second-rate about any of these winches. They all work very, very well and last a long time if properly cared for. The choice may involve gear ratios, serviceability or even cosmetics (we still believe a good part of a sailboat’s appeal is aesthetic).
If it’s something different you want, try Setamar. If you don’t need a large winch, don’t overlook the “new-tech” Bartons. But for efficiency, serviceability, construction and appearance, our top choice is the Andersen.
Contacts- Andersen, Scandvik, Inc., 423 4th Pl. SW, Vero Beach, FL 32961-0068; 561/567-2877. Antal, Euro Marine Trading, Inc., 62 Halsey, Newport, RI 02840; 800/222-7712. Barton, Imtra Corp., 30 Samuel Barnet Blvd., New Bedford, MA 02745; 5008/005-7000, www.imtra.com. Harken, 1252 E. Wisconsin, Pewaukee, WI 53072; 262/691-3320; www.harken.com. Lewmar, New Whitfield St., Guilford, CT 06437; 203/458-6200; www.lewmar.com. Setamar, Setamar USA, Box 840, 17 Burnside St., Bristol, RI 02809; 401/253-2244.
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Sailing winch: elevating your sailing adventures.
As a passionate sailor, I understand the significance of every piece of equipment on a sailboat. One essential component that plays a pivotal role in controlling sails and ensuring a smooth sailing experience is the sailing winch. In this article, I will guide you through the world of sailing winches, providing helpful suggestions and reasons for my recommendations..
To select the most suitable winch for your sailboat, it’s crucial to understand winch specifications. Load capacity and line size dictate the winch’s strength and compatibility with your sailing needs. Gear ratios and power ratios impact the winch’s efficiency and ease of use. Additionally, the decision between self-tailing and non-self-tailing winches depends on your preference and sailing style.
Several factors influence your choice of a sailing winch. The size and type of your boat are primary considerations, as different boats have varying sail control requirements. Sailing conditions and intended use, such as racing or cruising, also play a vital role in determining the appropriate winch. Of course, your budget will influence your final decision.
When it comes to sailing winches, one size definitely doesn’t fit all. These mechanical marvels come in a variety of types, each tailored to different sailing needs. Here’s a quick rundown of the main types:
Ah, the self-tailing winch – a true game-changer. These winches are designed with a built-in mechanism that grips the line as you turn the handle, making it a one-person job to handle lines efficiently. No more struggling to maintain tension while winding in those sheets or halyards. If convenience is your goal, self-tailing winches are your best friend.
The classic choice that has stood the test of time. Manual winches require good old elbow grease to operate. While they might demand a bit more physical effort, they offer a direct connection to the sails and an authentic sailing experience. Ideal for traditionalists who enjoy the tactile connection with the elements.
Electric winches bring modernity to the seas. With just the push of a button, you can effortlessly control the lines. These winches are a blessing during demanding maneuvers or when dealing with heavy loads. They do the heavy lifting for you, allowing you to focus on the joy of sailing.
For the big leagues – hydraulic winches. These heavy-duty powerhouses are often found on larger vessels. They provide unparalleled strength and are capable of handling massive loads with ease. If you’re sailing a sizeable yacht and require superior strength, hydraulic winches have your back.
Maintaining your sailing winches is essential to ensure their longevity and optimal performance. Regular cleaning and lubrication prevent corrosion and keep the winch running smoothly. Conducting inspections and servicing at appropriate intervals can catch potential issues early on.
Features diagonal ribs to maximize gripping power and greatly reduce line wear
The self-tailing mechanism on the winch means that one crew member can quickly and easily trim or raise sails
Easy to fit and use
2-Way ratcheting mechanism allows for simple tightening or loosening of the strap. Efficient 4: 1/8: 1 gear ratio helps you load faster.
The hand crank winch is constructed from premium steel, Zinc-plated finish for superior corrosion resistance is applied to ensure a long-lasting finish and to help prevent rust, helping resistant bad weather and outdoor elements.
Features a comfortable rubber handle for turning the dual-speed planetary gear for efficient, easy cranking for rotating fast or slow on heavy loads.
The boat winch is used for a wide variety of lifting, lower or position a heavy load, It mounts to your truck or trailer to ease loading of ATVs, boats, and heavy equipment.
In the world of sailing, where precision and control reign supreme, a high-quality sailing winch becomes your steadfast companion. From the satisfying clicks as you reel in the lines to the thrill of a seamlessly executed maneuver, a sailing winch elevates your entire experience. Remember, the right choice depends on your boat, your needs, and your sailing style. So, weigh your options, consider your vessel’s demands, and set sail with confidence. With the right sailing winch by your side, you’ll navigate the waters like a true master, capturing the wind’s essence in every graceful glide. Happy sailing!
Is it possible to retrofit manual winches with electric ones?
Absolutely, retrofitting manual winches with electric ones is a popular upgrade. It can save you from extensive rewiring and drilling, as many manufacturers offer conversion kits designed for this purpose.
How often should I lubricate my sailing winch?
Regular maintenance is key. Depending on usage and conditions, it’s generally recommended to lubricate your winches at least once a season. Be sure to use a suitable marine-grade lubricant.
Can I use a larger winch on a smaller boat?
While it’s technically possible, it’s not always advisable. Using a winch that’s too large for your boat can lead to over-tensioning and potential damage to your equipment. Always refer to load capacity recommendations.
What’s the best way to clean a self-tailing winch?
Cleaning self-tailing winches involves disassembly. Carefully remove the drum and clean all components with a solvent or mild detergent. Follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for reassembly.
Are there any safety certifications for sailing winches?
While there aren’t specific safety certifications for winches, look for well-known brands that adhere to international standards for manufacturing quality and durability.
Remember, when it comes to sailing winches, knowledge is your compass. Equip yourself with the right information, make informed decisions, and let the wind carry you to unforgettable nautical adventures.
Michael Thompson
Embarking on a lifelong love affair with the sea, I found solace and exhilaration in the art of sailing. From navigating treacherous waters to harnessing the wind's untamed power, my passion has evolved into a mission to inspire others. Join me on a voyage of discovery as we explore the vast horizons of sailing's timeless allure.
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The Offshore Voyaging Reference Site
We have already published two chapters on offshore sailboat cockpits in our How To Buy a Cruising Boat Online Book, but even so there are still a bunch of selection criteria I have not covered, so let’s dig into winches, both those in the cockpit and generally.
With offshore sailboats the devil is absolutely in the details and never more so than when we come to winch setup. A poorly-positioned winch:
Given that, let’s look at how to identify boats with winches done right:
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As has been so often the way this past year or so, you put up articles that are downright spooky in their timing. I just got home after a spending a few hours templating my winch and clutch layout on my coachroof – so this article has been a huge sanity check.
I think I’ve managed to tick all the important boxes. My boat has a grand total of 11 winches festooned over it, 4 forward on or near the mast for the halyards and reefing lines (and I’ve listened to your stern admonitions on this despite almost all local opinion going the other way), then 3 on the coachroof just forward of the cockpit, and finally 2 each side on the cockpit coaming.
Because my staysail track is already on the coachroof, the sheets go to the 2 outboard winches up there. In effect this gives me the ‘three winches each side’ you suggest. The same winches are also used for the minor mainsail trimming controls outhaul and vang, and the two traveller control lines.
The centre coach roof winch is used for the mainsheet only – not ideal but I’m going to live with it as the easiest solution to get me back into the sea. (The coachroof is low enough that standing astride the cockpit seats we get a good position to operate them.)
The cockpit primaries are jib sheet only, but the secondaries have four different lines, furlers, preventers, whisker pole and running backstay terminating on them. Trying to shift the mainsheet back there as well just struck me as too hard – even though I can see the advantages. The blocks and jammers needed to make it work are going to be complicated enough as it is.
I just counted them all up – a total of 30 different lines! Deciding on how I wanted to run them all has been one of the most drawn out and troublesome decisions I’ve had to make so far, and I want to convey just how much your input here at MC has influenced my thinking for the better. I couldn’t quite get to the ideal, but close enough that I’m really looking forward to getting it finally done!
Agree about the timing!
Only 11! Bah! 🤣 My old girl has thirteen – seven in the cockpit, two on the mast and – (this is where I have doubts) – four on the coachroof, under the gooseneck (reef, outhaul, topping lift, kicker). I can scrap the kicker and topping lift by fitting an hydraulic strut as per MC, and move the reefing winch to the mast. Then we will be even!
Now, now, boys, let’s play nice 🙂
Winches “r” us! Old picture from two years ago. The halyard, reefing and mainsheet winches are now self tailing and I just have to raid the piggy bank and talk to Mr Harken about replacing the six flat top monsters in the cockpit… your advice about not going for electric winches is very welcome!
Glad it was useful. As you say, getting this right is a real brain stretcher. Don’t worry too much about the mainsheet, there are always going to be compromises. In our case the less than idea winching position for the staysail comes to mind.
The other thing to realize is that you are not going to get this right the first time no matter how hard you try, and that realization can actually be a stress reducer, at least when we remember that changing this stuff is not that horrible, particularly on a fibreglass boat. Point being that getting a really good deck layout is a process, not a destination. After 30 years of steady improvement (starting from a good place) MC is about 95% right, but I can still think of little tweaks that would improve things further.
any thoughts on how much of a compromise are standard winches with Barton Winchers compared to self-tailing winches?
I have no experience with them yet, but I’ve got a pair of winches nearly for free and been contemplating getting rid of the staysail boom and using these standard winches with Winchers to sheet the staysail. Say, if you were forced to choose, which of these would be the lesser evil: staysail boom or non self-tailing winches?
I had a staysail boom for 29 years and whilst it was master of the foredeck when the sail was set, one could always drop the staysail on entering an anchorage. One does lose some horsepower but one can hank on a bigger staysail… on the other hand trying to sheet a staysail every tack with sub optimal winches is a pain in the neck. IMHO, fwiw…
Thank you for your opinion, Andrew.
Maybe I should have said that I’m talking about a staysail on a cutter. If need to short-tack, I tend to drop the staysail altogether and use just the jib-top, which is sheeted to self-tailing winches. So, I’m not sure how much of a pain in the neck it would be in practice. Definitely more work than when it tacks by itself, of course.
Tacking the staysail on a cutter, even one the size of MC, is so easy that I would always get rid of the boom. But then I’m a total deck clutter hater: https://www.morganscloud.com/2011/02/25/clear-the-decks-for-action/
Hi John, Andrew, Alex and all, John, agree completely about the staysail being a doddle to tack. When timing is good, snubbing the sheet before it fills pretty much precludes a need to winch. At most, a few inches is needed. For me, a chance to roll up the jib-topsail and short tack into an anchorage is just plain fun: no real work, total control (little worry about close-to-land gusts), good visibility, a chance to look around, no waves: what is not to like. My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy
I agree, and as long as the water is smooth, a faster option than many would expect.
Hi John, Yes, agreed. It amazes me how easy it is to move a well-designed hull in flat water when there is little wind. I sometimes think that every boat should have as one of its base reported stats the force necessary (dynameter?) to pull it through the flat water on a calm day at, say, 6 knots. I imagine that would be an informative piece of information relatively easy to come by. My best, Dick
This was the home of the staysail boom – not in use in this picture.
Loverly photo of a loverly boat, thanks.
I tried the Barton years ago and found that while better than nothing they are not even close to a self tailing winch. That said, I would do most anything to get rid of a staysail boom, probably including using the Barton option and selling my first born child.
Thank you John. This answer is graphic enough to leave no doubt as to which way the boom should go.
Hi Phyllis The details in this picture are really interesting. What is orange fixture on your Spinlock left belt, and what kind of gloves are you using and do you like them? Would they be good for photography in Antarctica? How do you like the Musto Ocean gear? Thanks!
Picture of you at mast in today’s post:
https://etugri87v3i.exactdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/JHH5-12909-700×[email protected]
Best wishes, Charles Charles L Starke MD FACP
Hi Charles,
If you put those questions into the search box, or check the topics page you will find short posts that answer them with the exception of the orange fixture which was a pre AIS POB alarm.
Hi John, Thanks for the article. Interested in your thoughts regarding winch placement on the Boreal 47.2: central winch in cockpit for halyards, centerboard, vang, reef lines (single line for first & second reef tack/clew, 3rd reef has line for clew and hook/cringle for tack). Two inboard winches for Genoa, staysail sheets. I am not sure whether the main sheet goes to central or aft winches. Maybe JFE will chime in. Best, David
Lot’s of tradeoffs there. So beyond what I can really do in a comment. Suffice to say that I generally prefer the Mk1 boats. My big problem with the Mk2 boats is the friction in the system from all the turns in the lines. On the positive side, the inboard primary winches look like they would be very efficient to use on the jib, and an improvement on the problem I identified in the article above.
Hi John, The set-up of the cockpit of the 47.2 (what you call mk2) is indeed very different from the earlier generation of Boréal. For us it is important to stress the fact that the 44.2 has the same principles of cockpit lay-out as the “original” 44 : one helmpost, all lines at the mast… That way we have a solution for the adapts of both philosophies…
Hi Jean-François,
Having now looked at renderings of both boats, I’m warming to the 47.2 and I think prefer it to the 44.2 because of the longer effective waterline for the same beam.
Hi David, I’m almost positive the smaller outboard winches are for the main sheet. I think the red for main and hard to see dark blue for jib are meant to show that.
Hi Michael,
Yes, I’m sure you are right. And a good position it is too, although there will be a lot of friction because of the convoluted lead which will make say jibing where a bunch of sheet must be pulled in quickly, a bit slow. My guess is all these Mk 2 boats are going to end up with electric winches for this reason, although an Ewincher might work too.
Hi John, Hi Michael, The genua winches are indeed the bigger winches you see on the inner side the cockpit… The ergonomy behind is that during a tack manoeuvre, one person can release the genua from one side AND pull it on the outer side… There is only more block (however at 90 %) than on the layout on the Mk1. Of course there is more friction than if the block was not there but the sytem really works fine. I hope that very shortly you can come and test it for yourself… Speaking of electrics : The ergonnomy is such that all lines can be brought back to the big central winch. If you electrify this one you can do all manoeuvres with that one electric winch. (the winch is oversized to a 65 size). JFE
Thanks for the confirmation on that. Given that you can stand over the winches in a safe and secure position, I totally get that winching the genoa will actually be easier and more efficient than on the Mk 1 boats, or my boat, definitely a good step forward. On the other hand, if I were having a 47.2 built I would ask you to put the reefing and halyard winches on the mast since I just don’t like the idea of using an electric winch from that far away from the action. That said, way, way, better than under the dodger since on the 47.2 you can at least see what you are doing.
I think I’m right in saying you would make that change, although the channels for the lines running aft would remain? If so, that’s probably good for resale value.
Anyway, I’m really looking forward to going sailing with you once this is over.
At the start of this article I became a little depressed. Must we really accept headsail sheet winches on the leeward coming as the only option? The suggested seat-height, kneeling, and other recommended ergonomics; and MC’s cockpit jackline solution mentioned elsewhere improve the situation but the operator still has her centre of gravity to leeward of her centre of support with the winch handle carrying the rest of the load. I really dislike sheeting to leeward and value the ability to place a foot to leeward of the load very highly. Perhaps it’s because I’ve sailed smaller boats than MC that bounce around more and on which crew weight position makes more of a difference. Full approval from me that Boreal at least, have brought them inboard. I have yet to see a better system than my old 1/4 tonner, which offered near-midship sheeting and a windward sheeting option, with the crew able to get a foot to leeward of the winch, all within the cockpit, and with no extra turnblocks. Might be hard to achieve in a larger cruising boat, but totally worth striving for IMHO.
Sure, I agree that leeward coming winches are less than ideal ergonomically. That said, bringing them inboard has downsides too. All these things are compromises. That said, wait for the A40 renderings…
Amen to the round-up problem being exacerbated by vang and main sheet controls out of reach of the helm! I’ve experienced this, for example, while pushing my luck too far with the spinnaker up in squall zones, and it is not fun. In my most serious round up, with the boat pinned on her ear, I was only able to depower the main by, while keeping the tiller hard to windward with my arms, stretching my leg across the companion way and releasing the vang clutch with my foot. I haven’t thought of a way to mitigate this hazard yet, except by sailing more conservatively. I am hesitant to move anything because the current set-up allows me to work the jib (or spinnaker) sheets, main traveler lines (and the topping lifts and after guys for two poles) while standing in one place (tiller between legs), so I can tack and jibe safely while single-handing. I have five winches on the cockpit coaming (primaries, secondaries and a spare), and two on the coach roof under the dodger. I’m also a fan of working the main halyard, reefing outhauls, and downhaul (Cunningham) at the mast, and have it set up so that I feel secure there even when it’s rough – cross bars between the forward and aft lowers give me a place to brace my back. I have four winches on the mast, two each side, that I use for the main, jib, staysail and spinnaker halyards, as well as for tensioning my removable inner forestay. A clutch for each halyard (and the inner forestay) is very handy, for example while hoisting, and of course allows winch sharing. I set my reefing outhauls using a winch on the forward end of the boom with a clutch for each of the outhauls. A bag below the boom winch collects the lazy ends which keeps the deck clear. The winch mount on the boom has always served well, and it seems it’d be more complicated to have it anywhere else, but I wonder if I am overlooking something?
Sounds like a good system. And good on you for realizing the issues of not having the main sheet to hand. Even if you don’t change that because of other reasons (perfectly valid) understanding the problem mitigates the dangers.
And no, I don’t think you are overlooking anything. Halyard and reefing winches moved aft over the years, I think, just because that looks good to those with less offshore experience who are the larger part of the market for new boats, not because it’s a more functional layout. Same reason most new boats have fat sterns, two cabins jammed under the cockpit and no deck accessible storage: it looks good at a boat show.
The evolution at Boreal is a good example of this phenomena at work. When the principles were designing a boat for themselves (the Mk1 boats) based on a lot of offshore miles, the winches were on the mast. Now that they must compete with other “expedition boats” the winches are in the cockpit.
Bonjour Messieurs,
I understand the friction issue, but for a shorthanded passage I am happy to have most of the lines coming back to the cockpit on the Mk2. This feels safer to me than having to move to the mast everytime that a sail must be reefed, and only the third reef should need intervention at the mast in the Mk2. This was one of my requirements for our boat and it was heard by JFD. Being novice, I may be in the wrong of course, and only time and experience will let me see the light on that topic. In which case, we could still electrify the other four smaller winches, or at least two of them, since at the current time, only the central main winch is electric on our boat. But this is a very interesting topic indeed, and I am glad that John provided his insights on it. Thank you so much.
Salutations de Montréal, Yan
My thoughts on why it may not in fact be safer to lead everything back are here: https://www.morganscloud.com/2020/09/11/second-level-thinking-about-offshore-voyaging-boats/
That you must go forward for the third reef, when the conditions will be most challenging, but will not be practising that regularly in easier conditions is much of why I worry about this trend.
That said, if one must have the lines lead aft, I think that the the Mk2 way is better than having them all jammed up under the dodger. Also, if you find you have a friction problem an Ewincher way solve it much more easily, and safer, than electrifying all winches: https://www.morganscloud.com/category/rigging-sails/ewincher-review/
This is part of why, in our re-jigging of Maverick V ‘s mainsail handling, we’re keeping all halyards and reefing at the mast. At some point, you’re going to have to go out on deck in rough stuff – so it’s probably best for that to be a routine, one that you practice so often that it’s easy and normal, rather than a rare special event.
The other reason is that, with kids often hanging out in the cockpit, I want as few loaded lines as possible that they have to watch for. It’s easy enough to teach them to stay clear of the traveller, mainsheet, and leeward jibsheet, but if there’s an 8-line jumble of spaghetti in the way, it’s harder for them to learn what’s loaded up (and thus must be avoided).
We tried running the main halyard back to the cockpit for a bit, and that caused more problems than it solved. Friction wasn’t an issue, but keeping control of the halyard while dropping or reefing the main became a 2-person job. It’s going back to its as-designed spot, a winch on the starboard cabin top beside the mast, this spring.
Our winches are mostly tail-it-yourself style, but we are replacing the #8 reefing winches and horn cleats on the boom with #18 Andersen self-tailers and Lewmar DC clutches so that Katy can grind those in by herself. I am quite impressed with the Andersen build quality and, at least around here, they are among the least expensive options.
Sounds smart to me. I have never used Andersen winches, but have heard good things for years.
Just a note about Barlow and Barient winches. I recently inherited a few, and recently had a very satisfactory experience with Hutton-Arco in Australia, which stocks parts for both brands. Their service was knowledgeable, friendly and fast.
Another Barlow note: Rather than replace my big 1970’s non-tailing Barlow primaries, I converted them (about ten years ago) to self-tailing using the Winchmate kit. It took some fussing to get them to operate as smoothly as I wanted, but David Leitch was very helpful and we got there, and the $ savings were substantial. They have worked well. http://winchmate.com/
That’s good to hear, thanks.
I generally agree with the advice but am not sure I agree on the placement of primaries for all cockpit shapes. If you look at the second picture with Phyllis, it is extremely hard to effectively brace yourself fore and aft when kneeling on a cockpit seat (athwartships relative to the boat), especially when heeling. This means that there are 2 portions of the winch stroke which are really hard. The first is where the handle is furthest from your body, your leverage is not good, you are leaning significantly downhill and your body kinematics are not good at sideways motion. This one will always be true and the best solution is to be able to get over the top of the winch as you state. The second problem area is when needing to pull the handle back towards you, you often see people jerking backwards in awkward motions or trying to go back and forth in a different area using both speeds of the winch to avoid going around.
The best solution that I have found is to be able to stand behind the winch facing forwards. This gives you a good view of the sail but also lets you compensate for heel with your legs. Of course, the problem then becomes how do you actually create this standing area assuming you are not on a really big boat where everything can be done standing. On smaller boats, the best way that I know of is when a T shaped cockpit is employed and the winch is just before the cross in the T as far inboard as possible. It is quite easy to screw up this layout either with the sheet being in the way or interfering with the helm but done well I personally much prefer it. If you don’t have a cockpit that permits standing facing forward or aft at the primaries, then I think the suggested location is the best compromise. One other trick which I got from you but believe we differ on how much we like it is that a ratcheting winch handle can help if the winch is in the described location.
Of course if winching the primaries is the only goal and you can ignore other requirements, then a centralized setup like an IMOCA is best but that seems a bit extreme to me.
I agree, the best possible solution is to bring the winch into the cockpit where you can stand over it. The reason I did not go there is that, as you say, it’s just not practical on most existing cruising boats, which is our primary readership. (While I generally prefer the Mk 1 Boreals, I do like the primary winch positions on the Mk2.)
So given that and that I don’t like to see people getting into the habit of standing outside the cockpit, I would stick with my recommendation above, which I have found to work well. One thing that can screw that up is if the seat that one is kneeling on is too low.
Also, I kind of agree on the ratchet handle, in that while it has never worked well for me I think it might work well on a smaller boat with lower winch ratios. The problem on our boat is that since our primaries are a bit oversized and the ratio high, because of the size of the boat, it just takes too long with a ratchet handle, and conversely making a full circle and getting some momentum going works well.
And that brings up another point: I think that if people have trouble winching through a full circle in the position Phyllis is in, that’s an indicator that the winch is not powerful enough, not a problem induced by the position itself. Also, if they feel insecure, that may be because the coaming is too low and/or angled outboard too far. The latter is something I will write about more in a future piece that I have about half done.
My observation of cruising boat designs in the size range of interest leads me to believe that a decent percentage of them have T shaped cockpits but I don’t have any actual numbers to back that up. Of these, probably something like half would work well with winches setup for standing without major surgery, I have sailed on a few different boats doing this and I definitely liked it more but you usually can’t stand as outboard as is ideal so it is still not as good as a pedestal in the middle of the cockpit. I agree completely on not standing outside the cockpit. I am actually contemplating moving our primaries to exactly this position at the front of the T on our boat although it is not super high on the priority list. There are molded in spots for winches in the right spot, they were just not originally populated. Several owners have reported to the owners forum that they have made the change and it has been a big improvement. At the same time, I would update to winches with spring loaded self-tailers as the current winches are an appropriate ratio but push us into larger than needed sheets and those still want to fall out sometimes.
Your comments on speed and ratcheting handles got me thinking and I believe that one of the tricks is that humans do not have constant power output over a very wide range of speed. At low speed, our torque output does not increase as much as our speed dropped and at high speed, our torque output falls quite quickly until you just can’t spin any faster even at no torque. If we assume that winches are the same efficiency regardless of gear ratio, which is not a terrible assumption, then we want to be operating close to our peak power output point as the energy output of the system remains the same regardless. In the real world, it is very hard to do this because our leverage changes depending on where we are in the rotation and the load on the sheet changes depending on several factors. Ideally, the ratio would actually vary based on where you are in rotation but that becomes a very fancy winch and we should all just buy Ewinchers first as they solve this and other issues. The worst would obviously be a gear ratio that is not deep enough so you struggle to grind but going overly deep is not good either. Ergonomics will play a big part in the right winch gear ratio and also lead to a much less fatigued sailor if done right, I think you want to be just short of bogging down in the worst case scenario and then rely on the multiple speeds to help improve efficiency in lower load situations.
Good point about bringing the winches inboard on T shaped cockpits. I have been thinking a lot about this in relation to the Boreal 47.2 and am warming to it. No question that standing over a winch is best. I will write more on that soon.
Also interesting about our torque output. I think that explains well our different experience with ratcheting handles. Also it confirms my doubts about the new four speed winches we are seeing on some boats.
I hadn’t realized that there are now 4 speed winches available, interesting. I wonder what the ratios are? If you are only looking for max power or efficiency in an application with variable load, having more gears is always good as you can better fine tune speed and torque. However, the real world includes things like size, weight, cost, reliability, control logic, etc that don’t always make that a good idea. I think that the auto industry provides an interesting view into this, it used to be that everyone drove cars with 3 speed gearboxes and now many are 10 speed or even infinite within a band (CVT’s). It isn’t like they are only just learning the laws of physics, they are optimizing differently and there have been technical advances too. 3 speeds used to be considered a reasonable compromise, sure you were often not in the powerband of the engine or it was revved up real high when you didn’t need a lot of power but it got the job done cheaply. At the same time, the tractor trailers often had 12+ gears, sometimes in 2 sequential boxes, because they were extremely power limited so needed to be able to get the right ratio and with professional drivers, they could. As people demanded more performance from cars, transmissions crept up to be 4 or 5 speeds but didn’t go higher. From a sales standpoint, I suspect that it was due to users not really understanding the complex product and just focusing on how many horsepower it has. From a performance standpoint, engines had gotten to silly high power levels so the performance was fine and actually, they would have accelerated more slowly if they had to shift more as shifting is time consuming. The car companies have continued to push performance but also are now having to push efficiency and finally we have seen a very quick jump to approximately double the number of gears. This would not have made sense without also vast improvements in how quickly gears shift. Can you imagine going along efficiently at 60mph and 1500 rpm, pulling out to pass someone, mashing the throttle and waiting 3 seconds while it slowly shifted down through 2 gears so you were at 4000 rpm? Since this was not acceptable, they used to just have you cruise along at 3000 rpm burning more fuel and then you might drop 1 gear at max but often none. The setups now do a great job of allowing you to cruise along at a low and efficient rpm but then very quickly shift to a high rpm for power and the control logic is good enough that it doesn’t bother the user like slushboxes of old.
Applying this to sailboat winches, I am not sure exactly what is right. My guess is that the average user would not be particularly good about knowing when to change gears but the top users would be, just watch people ride a bike or drive a manual transmission car and see how many are not doing the right thing. Then there is the question of how gears are changed, if it is time consuming or tricky, that can negate all of the positives. If someone really wanted to nerd out on this, they could use a stationary excercise bike with a true power readout to map out speed versus power by simply varying the resistance.
One other lever that people have to pull is of course winch handle length, I am aware of 2 lengths but there may be more. If someone finds that they have slightly deeper of a ratio than they need, it could be that going to the shorter handle is better. Depending on the ratios, you may find that in the other gears, it is less optimal though so you need to optimize over the whole range of conditions. I suspect that America’s Cup teams have the data and optimize around this stuff but for everyone else, they use some rules of thumb and move on.
That’s really interesting and get’s me thinking about all sorts of winch related stuff including that I have noticed over the years that long duration winching, even at comparatively low loads, can be more exhausting than short duration at high load, even though similar amounts of work are getting done. The classic example is winching in the jib top furling line on MC feels more onerous than bringing in the lee sheet after a tack. That was the basis of my scepticism of 4 speed winches. But then again I have never tried one, so I could easily be wrong about that.
Thanks for your insights into human power development and ergonomics Eric; most interesting. Your observations seem to have many parallels to bicycling, where a dozen or so gears 10%-13% apart have been found optimal. It will be interesting to see how far down this path winch manufacturers will go. Will we see a 10-speed winch at some point? In the meantime, short and long handles for light & heavy jobs seems like a wonderful progressive step (simple & cheap.) While thinking about handles, the Ewincher offers another solution. E-bike makers are just cottoning onto the fact that they don’t need to provide so many gears so closely spaced. The e-assist makes up the difference between more widely-spaced gears. An Ewincher might prove a more reliable, fault tolerant, and redundant option than a future 4-10 speed winch.
I agree on Ewincher, See our in depth review: https://www.morganscloud.com/category/rigging-sails/ewincher-review/
Good article, John!
Our winch plan on Beatrix (44′ cutter) is very similar to your suggestions.
Part of selecting winches should be a consideration of maintenance issues. Servicing is a n important (and often neglected) task that should be done at once or twice a year.
When I re-winched about 20 years ago the sales guys at Fisheries Supply and I took apart an Anderson, a Harken, and a Lewmar to check the ease of servicing. Anderson was by far the easiest and Lewmar was the worst. We chose Harken, partly because they had a 15% off RRP program at the time which, combined with my 40% commercial discount, saved us a LOT of money, but most important was that they are good winches and Harken had a good customer service reputation.
For the primaries, we have 2 big 3-speed Harken 56.3ST winches. The insides resemble a Porsche transmission. ( I’m happy with the 3-speed winches but 2-speed would have been fine.) Kathy does all the servicing (she’s the “winch wench”) and she does it regularly. Unserviced winches eventually break teeth or become hard to use.
We also carry spare parts: all plastic components like the upper jaw, plus various washers, springs, pawls, and detent balls. Occasionally a tiny part is lost during servicing. The plastic upper jaws are all original. Where the winches are duplicates we don’t need a complete spares kit for each one.
Last, and not totally relevant to the topic, Sunbrella winch covers keep out dust and UV when not in use.
Cheers Jeff
I agree maintenance is important, although I have never found that the Lewmar winches were a problem, but then we have the older ones that I think were better in this regard.
That said, I don’t think a full maintenance is required every six months, or even once a year. Maybe on a race boat, but not on a cruising boat. My experience is that a full strip and clean every three to five years is fine.
If we did a full strip and clean every six months on MC, that would be fantastically onerous, given that it takes three full days for two of us to do all the winches on the boat properly.
A little bit of planning and practical geometry allowed us to put larger primaries (Lewmar 44s, rehabbed, freshwater-only “Ocean Wave” models from the ’90s) between our Andersen 40 primaries and our single speed Andersens we use for the staysail sheets. The heights differed enough so that the biggest winch, the Lewmar, clears the rest with the biggest winch handle. We can get right over the winches on the centerline standing in the footwell and all lines run fair through blocks from forward. The rest of the winches are at the mast (more Andersen 40s). The largest winch handle clears the Lewmar by 3 mm or about 1/8th of an inch.
If we need to winch the staysail sheet, it’s usually just one or two cranks, so the inability to do a full circle was no real compromise. We have no coamings on our rather strange boat, and so often attempt to think in non-obvious ways, such as “height of winch tops” to solve problems. We carry spares for both the Lewmars and the Andersens, both of which were easily obtainable and we strip down all winches for cleaning and related service (the occasional pawl replacement, mostly) every two seasons.
Hi Marc, this sounds like an interesting setup – do you have some photos available?
There are two photos in this blog post of interest…we had a busy month aboard. https://alchemy2009.blogspot.com/2019/07/good-grief-we-are-aboard.html
Thanks Marc! This is truly an unusual setup, but seems perfect for the functions intended. (hope you never have to use it to winch in a drogue…)
That’s actually what the aftmost Andersen 40s would handle, not that I anticipate that with enthusiasm as we’ll have to practice deploy the drogue in order to practice retrieving it! We are installing our drogue chainplates before launch in the next 60 days or so.
I find Pontos [now Karver] 4 speed winches a dream to use for the headsail primaries in my old age, and agree an Ewincher is perhaps the only satisfactory solution if the boat builder has stupidly put the mainsheet winch on the coach-house.
That’s interesting. I was sceptical about the 4 speed idea figuring that upping the ratio would just make the grinding job longer, albeit easier.
I truly love this site and it never fails to give me information I desperately need (even as it highlights more tasks to add to my already MASSIVE ‘to-do’ list!). While I realize that there are endless configurations of gear and systems, would it be possible to post a few “generic” evolutions for we somewhat crazy new-old boat owners? For example, “this is what I look for when inspecting and servicing my wheel steering system”. It certainly won’t look exactly like mine, but given that it performs the same function it should have useful similarities… and generate lots of horror story comments…
Hi Martin, Edson has maintenance manuals ( https://edsonmarine.com/product-tech-support-manuals-guides-and-maintenance-sheets/ ) that will give you most everything you need to inspect steering systems and to determine their current state and guide further care. My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy
Thanks for the kind words.
Although we don’t have an article specifically on checking steering systems we do have over 1150 articles. I would guess that over half of those are on some aspect of boat maintenance. They are also categorized and searchable (see top menu) so a lot of that is already done. And we have an online book specifically on maintenance: https://www.morganscloud.com/category/maintenance-refits/book-maintaining-cruising-boat/
The types of boat winches.
Boating enthusiasts know that setting sail on the open waters is a thrilling adventure, but it often requires careful preparation and the right equipment to ensure a safe and enjoyable journey. One essential piece of equipment that plays a crucial role in many aspects of boating is the boat winch. Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or a novice looking to embark on your first voyage, understanding the different types of boat winches is paramount to ensuring a seamless and stress-free experience.
In this comprehensive guide, we will dive deep into the world of boat winches, shedding light on their various types, the best anchor winch for small boats, service and maintenance of a boat winch, selecting the proper size of boat winch and other boat winch parts and products. This guide will provide you with the knowledge you need to make an informed decision.
A boat winch is a crucial piece of equipment used in the world of boating and marine activities. This mechanical device is designed to assist in the lifting, lowering, or securing of boats, trailers, or other heavy loads.
Boat winches are commonly mounted on trailers or the deck of a boat and are powered either manually or electrically. They employ a system of gears and a winding drum to wind and unwind a cable or strap, allowing for controlled and efficient handling of heavy loads. Whether you’re launching your boat into the water, hauling it onto a trailer, or securing it in place, a high-quality boat winch is essential to make these tasks safer and more manageable, ensuring a smoother and more enjoyable boating experience.
Boat winches are essential tools for boating enthusiasts as we know, and they come in various types to cater to different needs. In this section, we will explore two common types of boat winches: Hand Winches and Electric Winches & Understanding the differences between these two types of boat winches can help you choose the one that best suits your boating needs.
Hand boat marine winches are mechanical devices designed to be operated manually, relying on physical effort to perform various lifting and pulling tasks. These winches are particularly well-suited for smaller boats or situations where access to power sources is limited. They have gained popularity in a variety of applications due to their simplicity and dependable performance.
One of the key characteristics of hand winches is their manual operation. Instead of relying on electricity, hydraulics, or other power sources, they depend on the user’s physical strength and effort. This feature makes them highly versatile and adaptable to situations where electricity or other forms of power may not be readily available, such as remote outdoor locations, small watercraft, or emergency situations.
In summary, the straightforward operation of hand winches makes them accessible to a wide range of users with minimal training or technical knowledge. This ease of use is particularly valuable in emergency situations or when immediate action is required.
Electric trailer winches is remarkable pieces of machinery that harness the power of electricity to perform a wide range of heavy-duty tasks, particularly in the context of larger boats and various industrial applications. These winches are highly regarded for their exceptional speed and efficiency when it comes to handling heavy loads.
One of the standout features of electric boat winches is their reliance on electricity as the energy source. This makes them incredibly versatile and suitable for a variety of settings, as long as there is a power source available. Whether it’s on a ship’s deck, a construction site, or any situation that demands the movement of substantial weights, electric winches rise to the occasion with ease.
In summary, electric winches represent a cutting-edge marvel of engineering that has transformed the manner in which we handle heavy lifting and pulling tasks, particularly in the context of boats and maritime activities.
Selecting the best anchor winch for small boats in Australia can significantly enhance your boating experience. To make an informed choice, consider factors such as the size and weight of your boat, the type of anchoring you’ll be doing, and your budget.
It’s essential to find a winch that can efficiently handle the anchor and chain weight while being easy to operate. Additionally, exploring reputable equipment retailers or websites like Sunrise Trailer Parts can provide valuable insights and a wide range of options to choose from. Reading reviews from fellow boaters and seeking expert advice can also help you make the right decision, ensuring that your anchor winch complements your small boat’s needs and maximizes your safety and convenience on the water. You can explore the best anchor winch for small boats in Australia with a secure attachment and excellent durability by visiting our website.
Service & maintaining a hand winch.
Proper maintenance keeps your hand winch in excellent condition, ensuring safety and reliability during boating adventures.
Proper maintenance of electric winches is crucial for safety and efficiency, making your boating experience hassle-free.
When determining the appropriate boat winch size for your needs, it’s essential to consider several factors to ensure a safe and efficient boating experience. At Sunrise Trailer Parts, we offer a range of boat winches to suit various requirements. To determine the right size for your boat, consider the following:
By considering these factors and exploring our range of boat winches at Sunrise Trailer Parts, you can confidently choose the right winch size to meet your specific needs. Our lastest model the auto brake hand winch is perfect for medium boat trailers and car carrier trailers
When it comes to boat winches and related accessories, we have you covered. In addition to our wide selection of boat winches, we offer a range of other boat winch parts and products to enhance your boating experience. Here are some key points about our additional boat-related offerings:
Spare Cable and Snap Hook for Hand Winch: We understand that wear and tear can take a toll on your boat winch cable over time. That’s why we provide high-quality winch spare cables and snap hooks that are perfect replacements for your hand winch. These durable components ensure that your winch remains in optimal working condition, allowing for smooth and reliable boat loading and unloading.
Marine Winches: Our commitment to offering comprehensive solutions for boat enthusiasts extends to our marine winches . We provide a variety of marine winches designed to meet the diverse needs of boat owners. Whether you require a manual winch for smaller boats or a powerful electric winch for larger vessels, we have options that are suitable for different applications.
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Winch Accessories and Spare Parts : Beyond cables and snap hooks, we also offer a wide range of accessories and spare parts for boat winches. This includes replacement handles , winch cradles , and winch replacement straps to keep your winch in top shape. These components are designed to be compatible with our winches and ensure their longevity.
Expert Advice: Our team of experts is always ready to assist you in selecting the right boat winch parts and products for your specific needs. We can provide guidance on compatibility, installation, and maintenance to ensure that you have a safe and enjoyable boating experience. Contact Sunrise today
Quality Assurance: At Sunrise Trailer Parts, we prioritize quality and durability in all our products. Our boat winch parts and products are built to withstand the harsh marine environment and are rigorously tested to meet industry standards.
When it comes to outfitting your boat with the best winch parts and accessories, Sunrise Trailer Parts is your trusted partner. Explore our range of boat winch products and enhance the efficiency and safety of your boating adventures.
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Table of contents.
If you’re new to sailing, you’ve probably heard the term “winch”. But what is a winch? What it is and how it works on sailboats? In this article, we’ll answer those questions, and provide you with helpful information on this essential piece of sailing equipment.
A winch is a mechanical device that is used to wind up or wind out a rope. It is essential to the operation of a sailboat because it allows sailors to adjust the tension of the sailboat’s rigging. Winches come in various shapes and sizes, but the most common type of winch is the drum winch. The drum winch has a cylindrical shape and is used to store and release rope.
Winches work on the principle of leverage. When a sailor pulls on the line, the winch’s drum rotates, causing the line to wind up around the drum. The winch’s gears provide additional leverage, making it easier for sailors to apply the necessary force to adjust the sail’s tension. Winches can be operated by hand or with an electric motor, depending on the size and complexity of the sailboat.
Winches are essential pieces of equipment on sailboats. They are used to adjust the sails’ tension, control the sailboat’s speed, and navigate in different wind conditions. Most sailboats have several winches installed, and their location on the boat is strategic to optimize their use. The winches located near the cockpit are used to adjust the sails while sailing, and the winches located on the mast are used to hoist and lower sails.
Proper maintenance of winches is essential for their optimal performance. Winches should be cleaned and lubricated regularly to prevent corrosion and rust. The winch’s gears must also be greased to ensure they remain in good working condition. Taking care of your winches will ensure they last for a long time and perform well when sailing.
In conclusion, winches are crucial pieces of equipment for sailboats. They allow sailors to adjust the tension of the sails and control the sailboat’s speed and direction. The different types of winches and their uses may appear complex at first, but with practice and experience, you’ll become an expert in their operation. Remember to maintain your winches regularly to keep them in good working condition.
Sailboat winches are essential components for adjusting and maintaining the sailboat’s rigging. They are mechanical devices that use leverage to allow sailors to control the ropes and lines that control the sails’ tension. In this article, we will examine how sailboat winches work and their importance for sailboat navigation.
A sailboat winch is a mechanical device that winds up or winds out a rope with a cylindrical drum to adjust the boat’s sails’ tension. The winch works by using leverage to allow sailors to control the ropes and lines’ tension with minimal effort. The winch’s gears provide additional leverage, making it easier for sailors to apply the necessary force to adjust the sail’s tension.
Choosing the right winch depends on the size of the boat and its intended use. Smaller boats typically require a smaller manual winch, while larger boats typically require an electric winch. The winch used on a sailboat must be powerful enough to adjust the sails properly, but not so powerful that it damages the boat’s rigging.
Regular maintenance of sailboat winches is vital to their optimal performance. Winches should be cleaned and lubricated regularly to prevent corrosion and rust. The winch’s gears must also be greased to ensure they remain in good working condition. Taking care of your winches will ensure they last for a long time and perform well when sailing.
Winches are mechanical devices used on boats to control the movement of ropes and lines. They are commonly used to adjust sails or to anchor and moor boats. In this article, we will discuss what winches are used for on boats and how they work.
Winches are essential for performing various tasks on boats, including:
Winches use gears and levers to increase the force applied to a rope or line. A winch’s primary functional component is the drum that rotates around a central axis. The drum has teeth on its surface that engage with a ratchet pawl, which prevents the drum from rotating in the opposite direction. When a sailor pulls on a line that’s wound around the drum, the teeth on the winch’s gears catch on the drum’s teeth, and rotation occurs.
Choosing the right winch depends on the type of boat and size. Small boats typically use manual winches, while larger boats use electric winches. The winch’s size and power must be appropriate for the load it will bear. For the safety of the boat and the passengers, it’s essential to choose a high-quality winch that’s reliable and meets the boat’s specifications.
A winch is an essential tool on a sailboat, and it is used for various tasks such as adjusting sails or anchoring and mooring the boat. But, what is the winch on a sailboat called, and how does it differ from other types of winches? In this article, we will discuss what a sailboat winch is and how it functions.
A sailboat winch is a type of winch specifically designed for use on sailboats. Sailboat winches are constructed in a way that accommodates the handling of ropes and lines that support and control the boat’s sails. Unlike other kinds of winches, sailboat winches are typically self-tailing, meaning they automatically grip the rope and prevent it from slipping when pressure is released.
Sailboat winches come in various sizes. A small boat may only require a single winch while large sailing vessels may have multiple winches used for different tasks such as hoisting sails, reefing sails, and trimming sails.
A sailboat winch has several components that work together to provide mechanical advantage to the person operating it. A typical sailboat winch consists of a winch drum, a handle or winch crank, a winch pawl, a winch gear housing, and a self-tailing mechanism.
The winch drum is a cylindrical component that has a rope wrapped around it multiple times. The winch crank is used by the person to rotate the drum manually, causing the rope to tighten. The winch pawl is a ratcheting mechanism that prevents the drum from moving backward when a load is applied to the rope. The winch gear housing includes gears and bearings that provide mechanical advantage to the person operating the winch, making it easier to control the boat’s sails.
The self-tailing mechanism of a sailboat winch is designed to grip hold of the rope automatically. This allows the user to use both hands for controlling the sails while being able to release and adjust the rope quickly.
We recommend you read our article on: How to use the windlass correctly: 8 examples and tips
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Sailing Winch Secrets: How To Use a Winch
Last Updated by
Capt Chris German
June 15, 2022
A winch can rip off your finger or save your back. If you know what you're doing, nothing beats this modern convenience for hauling in a sail in heavy breeze.
One of the most conspicuous features of a modern sailboat is the high chrome shine of the winches. Your eye is drawn to their steely glow while your inner voice tells you that these things mean danger.
They really are one of the most dangerous pieces of equipment on a sailboat, but also one of the most utilitarian tools a boat may have. By following a few precautions and always keeping your bearings about you, you can use this tool for all sorts of functions and still keep all your fingers attached at the socket.
Table of contents
When I signed up for the sailing team at the US Coast Guard Academy, the coach walked in and asked who in the room had ever used a winch before? The quizzical looks on many of the young swab faces must have told him that he had very few real sailors in the newly minted class of 1994, and he explained, “You know that thing that looks like a coffee grinder that you wind around with a handle?”
Several faces lit up with that explanation and he immediately tapped those in the know for the big boat team. The rest of the young swabs would be sent to the dinghy team, while the select few would be elevated to relative stardom by joining on the crew to race the big boats in the weekend club series at area yacht clubs.
By being selected for the big boat team, we would be allowed to leave the base most weekends of the fall and play with civilians at yacht club parties who would fawn over the fact that academy cadets were at THEIR party. That was my favorite function of the winch at that point, to get me into parties, but not really how a winch is supposed to be used.
Winches are however just as the coach described them. They look like big coffee grinders and you spin them around with a winch handle. They come in lots of sizes, but all pretty much have the same shape and function - to haul in the jib sheets to trim the jib on the upwind leg.
I have seen little brass ones no bigger than a cat food can on old sailboats from the 60s and I have seen huge drum sized winches on yachts that would make you puke with envy. Regardless of their size however, they all do pretty much the same thing - pull in the jib sheets.
Winch operation is pretty simple too - after all, it is a simple machine. You wrap the line around the winch three or four times from the bottom up, pulling the line in with one hand and while you crank the winch with the other. On big boats or heavy breeze days, you can team up on a winch with a crew mate, where one person is the grinder and the other person pulls in the line or “tails the winch”.
The friction of the line wraps around the drum of the winch which usually has some kind of ridges etched in it for better holding effect. As you pull the tail of the line out of the winch the winch spins on bearings and offers you a better purchase on the line than you would have if you were just pulling the line directly from the jib.
The person grinding (or your other hand) can assist your pulling hand or tailor pull the line in by manually spinning the winch with the winch handle. This is where you can exact revenge on a grinder by telling them to grind the winch without actually pulling on the line making them think they are doing work without actually doing anything. (You have to pull on the line for a winch to work).
That’s it - an elegantly simple machine doing a yeoman’s effort of work - better living through technology.
Who would think that something so elegantly simple could be so dangerous? Winches while rarely causing lethal injuries, have been known to make some pretty grotesque origami of fingers and hands of errant pit crew (the people who trim the jib in a sailboat race are called the pit crew because they work in the the cockpit and all they do is grind winches).
All too often, a tailor will allow their hands to get a little too close to the winch wraps on the drum and the line will suck your hand into the wraps, crushing, twisting and mangling your fingers and hands.
This is where the grinder can get their revenge by grinding your hands to pulp in the drum of the winch, but my hope is no one is malicious enough to intentionally grind someone’s hand up into a winch on a sailboat.
There are ways however to avoid having your hands and fingers sucked into a winch. That comes from how you hold the line. Grasping the line with your thumbs towards you and pulling hand over hand is the safest way to grasp a line. This keeps the finger that makes us human, the thumb, furthest away from danger and allows you drop the line in a hurry if things ever get out of hand.
Invariably however, some people hold the line the wrong way and that is when tragedy strikes.
The way you wrap a winch is key as one way will work and the other way will not. Most winches will be wrapped from the bottom up in a clockwise direction. I am a little dislexic when it comes to how to load a winch, so usually I will give the winch a turn with my hand before I load it to make sure I understand which way it turns.
Once you have wrapped your winch, it is ready to haul- so keep your hands safe as soon as you put the line on the winch. You’ll know it's time to load up your winch or wrap it, when the skipper says “ready about”.
With your winch loaded, your boat is ready to tack and you will tell your skipper that you're ready. Helm over, the bow swings through the wind and at this point you will release the sheet by unwrapping the line from the winch and allowing it to run freely to the other side, where hopefully your grinder has preloaded their winch and are ready to pull in when the jib switches sides.
An effective tack requires the timing of the process to be exact. If you release your winch too soon, your boat will lose speed and fail to complete the tack. If you release your winch wraps too late, your jib can get stuck up on your mast or life lines and may make the boat over tack or turn too far down wind.
The only way to master the timing of the tack is to practice, but with time and practice you will get a feel for how your boat tacks and when you should release the jib sheet.
For more info on tacking please see our article on sailing maneuvers .
Alton Brown of The Food Network has said that the only unitasker allowed in his kitchen is a fire extinguisher, and I would suggest that that thinking also applies on a sailboat.
The space is too small and efficiency is too imperative to allow any single use tools to have a place on your boat and as such the winch is no different. Did you really think that a winch could only be used for jib sheets?
Winches can be used for all sorts of other functions in a sailboat, many that have no relation to sailing at all.
I use my jib winch for hauling in spring lines or breast lines on breezy days when the wind is setting my boat off the dock. A few wraps from a dock line and even the most ardent vessels will relent and come alongside a pier or bulkhead.
Winches can also be located on the mast for hauling halyards and on the stern quarters for hauling spinnaker gear. It is this universal nature of the winch that makes it such a useful tool on a sailboat.
Other functions can include hauling a MOB over the side or cinching in a dinghy for stormy weather. The coupling of blocks and tackle with a well placed winch can turn a deck winch or a mast winch into an integral part of any emergency plan- so get creative.
Perhaps I am showing my age, but when I was a boy, winches came in one flavor, manual.
Today however, there are so many advancements in winch technology that you can navigate your vessel and trim your sails with an app on your phone below decks so that you don't even need sunscreen anymore.
Self tailing winches are winches that wrap the tail in a round jam cleat that is located on the top of the drum. When you crank the drum, the winch will pull the tail simultaneously eliminating the need for a crew member to pull your tail for you.
Electric winches go one step further where an electric motor grinds the winch for you while the winch self-tails, making it possible for you to raise and lower your main or trim your jib without ever exerting any physical effort whatsoever.
I have even seen aftermarket products that can turn a traditional manual winch into an electric winch by using a battery operated hand held motor to grind the winch for you. It may seem like cheating to some, but technology in winch grinding has made it possible for all sorts of people with physical limitations to enter the sport of sailing and/or continue to enjoy the sport of sailing well into their senior years.
I am told and have read that caring for one’s winch is very much a DIY project, but taking a winch apart has never been my favorite thing to do. One wrong move and the loss of one bearing makes a $3000 winch into scrap metal.
So to that extent, washing a winch with mild soap and lots of fresh water to keep salt and sand out of the gears is about as far as I go in caring for my winches. Then again, I have never had really expensive boats either.
I have seen lots of people also cover their winches with canvas and my feeling is while this is cute, it doesn’t do a heck of a lot to protect and may in fact promote rust and corrosion on your aluminum, chrome, stainless steel or bronze varieties. However, covering carbon or other composite types of winches may prolong the life of their finish as UV rays can degrade these varieties.
For more on how to disassemble a winch, how to grease a winch and how to install a winch, check out Google. Harken, West Marine and Ronstan all stand to make money selling you on taking a winch apart because odds are if you do you'll have to buy a new one. I have sailed with winches that were decades old and worked perfectly without ever greasing them or taking them apart;so I will recommend sticking to soap and water. But you do you.
For now though, watch your digits when loading and hauling on your winch and don't get too intimidated by those barrel side jobs on the luxury sailboats. They are all just winches at the core and all they really do is make pulling in lines easier.
So do good, have fun and sail far.
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Capt Chris German is a life long sailor and licensed captain who has taught thousands to sail over the last 20 years. In 2007, he founded a US Sailing-based community sailing school in Bridgeport, CT for inner city youth and families. When Hurricane Sandy forced him to abandon those efforts, he moved to North Carolina where he set out to share this love for broadcasting and sailing with a growing web-based television audience through The Charted Life Television Network.
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A sailboat winch is a powerful and compact internally gear driven tool that enables you to haul in and hold lines under high loads manually by a single person. Winches will have their size marked on the top of the drum, ex. 20, 35, 40, and so on. This number indicates the power ratio. For example – a #35 winch will provide a 35:1 mechanical advantage. Say you have a winch handle set into the top of the winch, and you are exercising 40 pounds of force as you wind the handle, which is, in turn, winching in a loaded line. The amount load being rendered to the line is 35 x 40 = 1400 pounds. Impressive power.
So, you are the engine, the winch is the transmission, and the handle is basically the clutch. But what handle should you use to decrease burnout, and that will be best for the load and open winching area?
We will take you through the four criteria to properly choose a sailboat winch handle:
Classic winch handles are either bronze or chromed bronze. They are beautiful (especially on a classic boat), built to last a lifetime, but heavy and the most expensive.
Anodized aluminum sailboat winch handles are medium weight, robust, and are by far the most popular on the market.
Reinforced plastic handles offer a lower price, lightweight (some float on or at the surface of the water), but extreme winching loads and can cause them to flex sometimes.
Carbon handles are lightweight (about half of the weight of aluminum) and without the possibility of flexing life plastic handles, but they carry a higher price tag.
Types Of Locking Winch Handles
All modern winch handles use an 11/16″ (17.5 mm) octagonal star stud that fits into the top of the winch. Locking handles will have a spring-loaded square lock-plate on the end of the star studs. When the spring-loaded lock-plate is held in the unlocked position, it aligns with the star stud ridges, allowing it to be inserted or removed from the winch top. When the lock is released with the handle in the winch, the plate rotates out of alignment with the star stud and catches on the corresponding ridges of the winch, holding the handle securely into the winch.
There are two exceptions to the lock-plate: 1. The Harken OneTouch handles, which uses two stainless retracting pins. 2. The Ronstan Quick-Lock handles, which has an auto-insert locking mechanism and is the only locking handle you can put in a winch without having to unlock it first. By sticking it into the winch, it automatically locks until you depress the handle button to release it.
All lock types are actuated either by a thumb-operated lever (on top or on the side of the handle) or by a top plate that is hand squeezed.
Generally, all handles on a boat should be locking unless there is a specific reason for it not to be. While non-locking handles are easier and faster to insert and remove from the winch, they are also easier to lose overboard if you don’t immediately remove it from a winch after use, and you knock it, or a line catches it. Losing handles overboard is expensive, and boats are extremely hard to sail if you run out of them.
The type of lock you choose is all personal preference. Top- thumb and side–thumb-operated locks only require only the movement of your thumb to actuate the spring-loaded mechanism. Top-hand locks require you to grip the sides and underside only of the handle’s shaft so as not to unlock it and then squeeze the trigger with your thumb when you are ready to unlock it. Top thumb locks are easy to operate with your thumb, either right or left-handed, and are the most commonly purchased handle, historically. Side thumb handles are easy to actuate left or right-handed and sleek on top (line shedding). Think through what would be easier for you and your crew to operate.
Buy Winches From Amazon Here
10″ handles are the most common and comfortable handle length for most sailors. It is the length that will give you the most power. When looking at specifications on winches, they will be based on this length handle.
8″ handles allow you to grind faster because they swing through a smaller circle, but power is reduced by about 20%. Cruisers may use them when a dodger or bimini is installed too close to a winch to use a 10” handle. They work well on smaller race boats when speed is more important than power. If you are a really strong person, and trimming substantial loads is not an issue, using these when racing on larger boats may be desirable due to the faster trimming speeds.
All quality winch handles will have ball bearing grips to reduce friction and translate the maximum amount of your energy to the winch. Some handles can even be rebuilt with new bearings after substantial use, but this is a rare occurrence.
By far, the most common grip type used and found on sailboats. If you do not have any specific needs for your handle other than for it to work well in a wide variety of uses, this is the default sailboat winch handle.
These are designed to help you translate two-arm cranking power to the winch once the load is fully taken up by the winch. Initially, you crank with one hand at high speed, then transition to two hands when the load becomes too much for just one arm. If you do not need the additional power of a double grip, consider a more appropriate handle. The taller grip stack will more easily snag lines (and body parts), and the larger size can be more difficult to store in a ready-to-use location.
Excellent for racing where maximizing winching speed is the only concern. The palm of the hand is placed on top, and the fingers grip around the knob top. Once substantial load comes on, it is assumed you are done winching in, as you cannot switch to the more powerful vertical grip or two-handed grip on this low profile design.
Allows you to change from speed grinding with your pam around the knob to one-handed power grinding on the vertical grip when the load becomes substantial, or supper powered two-handed grinding with one hand on the knob and the other on the vertical grip. It’s almost like having a three-speed handle. The Haken is unique in that the knob and the single grip rotate independently of one another, thus allowing your wrists to bend independently when two-handed winching.
At the end of the day, if you have no special requirements for your winch handle and are looking to purchase a new one, a 10”, top thumb locking, aluminum, with a single grip from Amazon is a safe bet .
Peter is the editor of Better Sailing. He has sailed for countless hours and has maintained his own boats and sailboats for years. After years of trial and error, he decided to start this website to share the knowledge.
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by Emma Sullivan | Jul 23, 2023 | Sailboat Gear and Equipment
A sailing winch is a mechanical device used in sailboats to control and trim the sails. It consists of a drum that rotates with the help of gears, enabling sailors to adjust the tension and position of the sail by winding or unwinding the line. These winches greatly enhance efficiency and ease of handling sails, especially in larger vessels.
Introduction to Sailing Winch: Everything You Need to Know
If you’re a novice sailor or even an experienced one, the sailing winch is an essential piece of equipment that you cannot afford to overlook. Despite being a rather simple mechanical device, the winch plays a crucial role in controlling and trimming sails, making it an indispensable tool for any sailing enthusiast. In this article, we delve into the world of sailing winches, explaining their significance, mechanism, and how they contribute to navigating the high seas.
So, what exactly is a sailing winch? Well, picture this – imagine you’re out at sea with your trusty sailboat and need to adjust your sails for optimum performance. Without a winch, this process would be demanding and physically straining. The sailing winch comes to the rescue by providing sailors with mechanical advantage via its ingenious design.
Designed with durability and efficiency in mind, modern-day sailing winches consist of numerous components working seamlessly together. From the drum (also known as the barrel) where the line or rope wraps around during operation to the base or pedestal that secures it in place – each part plays its distinct role while complementing others for smooth functioning.
The beauty of a sailing winch lies in its mechanism – predominantly driven by gears arranged within its core. When sailors exert force on the handle attached to this cylindrical powerhouse of functionality (also called an arm), several gear interactions come into play. These gears facilitate load distribution across various sections of the winch while generating significant power transmission.
An experienced sailor knows that different conditions demand varying sail configurations for optimal speed and maneuverability. Fortunately, sailing winches cater to these requirements by offering two primary types – self-tailing and non-self-tailing variants.
The self-tailing winch gains popularity due to its user-friendly nature. With built-in jaws encircling the drum’s perimeter, it securely holds lines once engaged correctly. This innovation eliminates the need for additional crew members to tend to the lines, making sailing a more manageable and enjoyable experience for solo or small crew expeditions.
On the other hand, non-self-tailing winches require careful manual guidance of lines during tensioning or releasing. Although they may pose technical challenges in extreme weather conditions, these winches hold their own by offering superior control over line handling when operated skillfully.
Regardless of the type you choose, selecting an appropriately sized winch for your vessel is crucial. Remember to consider factors such as sail area, boat displacement, wind strength, and personal preferences when deciding on the appropriate power ratio for your sailing winch.
Now that we’ve discussed the significance and mechanics of sailing winches let’s not forget about proper maintenance. Your trusty winch requires periodic care and attention to ensure its longevity. Regular lubrication with high-quality grease and rinsing off saltwater residue can go a long way in preserving its smooth operation. Additionally, inspecting gears, pawls, springs, and bearings will help identify potential areas needing repair before they turn into bigger problems down the line.
In conclusion, understanding the fundamentals of a sailing winch equips sailors with valuable knowledge that can greatly enhance their overall sailing experience. Whether it’s adjusting sails to catch that perfect wind or effortlessly controlling line tension during maneuvers – a well-functioning winch is a sailor’s best friend. So next time you embark on an adventurous voyage across the open waters, remember just how vital this humble yet ingenious device is in navigating rough seas with grace and precision.
How a Sailing Winch Works: A Step-by-Step Guide
Sailing is often associated with adventure and the feeling of being one with nature. It’s not just about hoisting your sails and letting the wind carry you away; it requires skill, strategy, and knowledge of the intricacies involved in maneuvering a vessel. One essential component that plays a critical role in controlling sailing boats is the winch.
In this step-by-step guide, we will delve into the fascinating world of sailing winches, unraveling the mechanisms behind their operation. Prepare to embark on a journey where ropes meet gears and physics collaborates with mechanics.
Step 1: Understanding the Basics
A sailing winch is a mechanical device used to control tension on sails by winding or unwinding rope known as sheets. Sheets are usually made of strong polypropylene or polyester materials specifically designed to withstand extreme conditions out at sea. The basics involve converting human effort into mechanical advantage through coiling and uncoiling these sheets around a drum.
Step 2: Anatomy of a Winch
To comprehend how a winch works, let’s start by exploring its physical structure. Think of it as an elegant fusion between simplicity and complexity. A typical winch consists of three main components – the drum, gears, and handle. The drum serves as the core element responsible for winding or storing ropes effectively. Gears provide mechanisms for multiplying force, enabling sailors to handle heavy loads with ease while minimizing fatigue during strenuous maneuvers. Lastly, there’s the ergonomic handle ensuring smooth operation without compromising comfort even when faced with powerful gusts.
Step 3: Load Distribution & Gear Ratios
As mentioned earlier, sailors rely on winches to manage substantial loads effortlessly – all thanks to something called gear ratios! In simple terms, gear ratios determine how much power an individual exerts on ropes via handle rotation compared to what is applied at the drum upon sheet release. By adjusting the gears, sailors can distribute loads evenly or multiply power when faced with challenging conditions, enabling them to conquer even the fiercest winds and tides.
Step 4: Art of Winching
Now comes the fun part – winching! To set sail or make adjustments mid-journey, sailors skillfully wrap a sheet around the drum and start rotating the handle clockwise. This motion causes the winch’s gears to engage, multiplying their efforts and effectively tightening or easing tension on the sail. Control is of utmost importance here; precise rotations ensure sails respond accurately to every tactical move made by sailors onboard.
Step 5: Safety Measures & Maintenance
While sailing winches provide immense control and maneuvering capabilities, safety should not be overlooked. Sailors must be mindful of potential entanglements when operating a winch, always keeping hands clear from moving parts. Routine maintenance is crucial for optimal performance. Regularly lubricating gears and ensuring all components are in good working order will make sure your winch becomes a reliable companion on your sailing adventures.
In conclusion, understanding how a sailing winch works unveils the secret world behind smoothly navigating through waterways. It involves harnessing natural forces while orchestrating an intricate dance between human prowess and mechanical precision. So next time you set foot (or hand) on a sailing vessel, marvel at its ingenious design and appreciate the wonders it accomplishes in making seafaring dreams come true.
Choosing the Right Sailing Winch for Your Boat: FAQs Answered
When it comes to sailing, having the right equipment can make all the difference in your experience out on the water. One crucial piece of equipment that every sailor should have is a reliable sailing winch. But with so many options available in the market, how do you choose the right one for your boat? In this blog post, we will answer some of the most frequently asked questions about choosing the perfect sailing winch.
1. What is a sailing winch?
A sailing winch is a mechanical device used to control and adjust sails on a sailboat. It consists of a drum or cylinder around which a line (rope) is wound. By turning the winch handle, you can manually adjust the tension and position of the sail, allowing for better control and maneuverability.
2. How do I determine the size of winch I need?
The size of your sailing winch depends on several factors such as boat size, sail area, and type of sailing you plan to do. As a general rule of thumb, larger boats with bigger sails require larger winches. It’s best to consult with a professional or refer to your boat’s manufacturer guidelines to ensure you select an appropriately sized winch.
3. What are self-tailing winches?
Self-tailing winches feature an additional mechanism that automatically grips and holds onto lines as they are being wound onto the drum. This eliminates the need for an extra person to hold tension on the line while you crank the handle. Self-tailers are particularly useful when single-handing or when quick adjustments are required during maneuvers.
4. Are two-speed or single-speed winches better?
This depends on your specific needs and preferences. Two-speed winches offer both high and low gear ratios, allowing for easier cranking under different circumstances. They are recommended for larger boats where significant loads may require more torque. On the other hand, single-speed winches are simpler and lighter, making them a popular choice for smaller boats or sailors who value simplicity.
5. What materials should I consider when choosing a winch?
Winches are typically made from stainless steel, chrome-plated bronze, or aluminum. Stainless steel is the most durable option and suitable for both saltwater and freshwater environments. Chrome-plated bronze combines elegance with corrosion resistance, while aluminum is lighter but not as strong as the other options.
6. Can I mix different brands of winches on my boat?
While it’s best to stick to a single brand for consistency in design and servicing, it’s generally possible to mix different brands of winches on your boat if needed. However, always ensure compatibility in terms of size, mounting hole patterns, and line diameter to avoid any issues.
Remember that investing in a high-quality sailing winch is crucial for safe and efficient sailing. It’s essential to choose one that suits your boat’s specific needs while considering factors such as size, type of sailing, materials used, and additional features like self-tailing or multiple speeds. Consulting with professionals or seeking advice from experienced sailors can help you make an informed decision. So go ahead, equip your boat with the perfect winch and have an exhilarating experience on the water!
Title: Top Tips for Maintaining and Caring for Your Sailing Winch
Introduction: A sailing winch is an invaluable tool on any boat, as it helps sailors effortlessly handle the various tasks on board. Whether you’re trimming sails or hoisting anchors, a well-maintained winch ensures smooth and efficient operations. To ensure your sailing winch remains in pristine condition, we have rounded up some top tips to help you care for and maintain this essential piece of equipment.
1. Regular Cleaning: It may seem obvious, but keeping your sailing winch clean is crucial for its longevity and optimal performance. After each sail or whenever there’s visible dirt accumulation, remove the handles and use a brush to eliminate dust, salt residue, or any other particles that may impair its functionality. Don’t forget to lubricate the moving parts afterward using a suitable marine lubricant.
2. Inspection and Lubrication: Regular inspections are essential to detect signs of wear or damage early on. Check the gears, pawls, springs, and bearings for any signs of rust, cracking, or misalignment. Apply a high-quality lubricant specifically designed for marine purposes to ensure smooth operation and prevent corrosion.
3. Correct Line Handling Techniques: Correctly handling lines when operating your winches can significantly extend their lifespan while preventing accidents. Avoid sudden jerks or excessive force when raising or lowering sails as this can put unnecessary strain on the winch components. Foster good habits by training all crew members on proper line handling techniques.
4. Store Cover/Shelter: Protecting your sailing winch from harsh weather elements like rain, UV rays, saltwater spray, and excessive sunlight is fundamental for maintenance. When not in use – especially during long periods of non-use – consider utilizing protective covers made from durable materials suited for marine environments or store them below deck if possible.
5. Regular Servicing: Just like any mechanical device with moving parts, a sailing winch also requires regular servicing to keep it in top shape. Engage with a professional sailboat maintenance service or tackle the task yourself if you are experienced. Servicing entails thorough inspection, cleaning, lubrication, greasing, and replacement of worn parts as required.
6. Spare Parts on Hand: Being prepared is key to handling unforeseen breakdowns. Make sure to keep spare parts onboard such as springs, pawls, and lubricant seals that are specific to your winch model. Additionally, consider having a spare complete drum assembly or even an entire winch for ease of replacement should the need arise.
Conclusion: Maintaining and caring for your sailing winch is not only vital for its longevity but also ensures your safety and enhances performance while out on the water. Implementing these top tips – regular cleaning, inspections, proper line handling techniques, protection from the elements, regular servicing, and keeping spare parts on hand – will help you enjoy smooth sailing adventures for years to come while safeguarding your investment. Remember that a well-maintained winch translates into hassle-free operations and peace of mind amidst wind-filled sails!
Title: Mastering the Art of Sailing Winch Handling: Indispensable Techniques for Smooth Navigation
Introduction: When it comes to operating a sailing boat, few skills are as vital as effectively handling a winch. This powerful mechanical device is crucial in adjusting sail tension, controlling speed, and maintaining stability. However, many novice sailors find themselves overwhelmed by its complexity. Fear not! In this blog post, we will guide you through the essential techniques for handling a sailing winch with finesse and confidence. So grab your sailing gloves and let’s dive in!
1. Get a Grip with Correct Hand Placement: As the old saying goes, “A firm grip leads to smooth sailing.” Begin by securing your dominant hand on the winch handle’s rubber grip. Optimal hand placement is around the center or at an angle of 45 degrees downwards when positioned vertically. This positioning maximizes leverage while providing better control during operation.
2. Understand Mechanical Advantage: Winches are designed with gears (also known as self-tailing mechanisms) that multiply the force applied to them. To utilize this mechanical advantage effectively, you need to grasp how different gear configurations affect their performance.
– Single Speed Winches: The simplest type typically found on smaller boats with one gear ratio only. They require more manual effort but offer greater precision due to direct control over sail trim adjustments. – Multiple Speed Winches: These advanced models come equipped with multiple gears that offer varying power-to-speed ratios depending on your needs. Engaging lower gears generates more torque for heavy loads, while higher gears allow swift trimming under lighter winds.
3. Hauling Line Simultaneously: When participating in high-intensity maneuvers such as tacking or gybing, efficiently hauling line becomes paramount—multitasking at its finest! To tackle this challenge smoothly:
– Coordinate Symmetrical Movement: Train yourself to match your winch handle rotations precisely with the movement required from the line. This synchronization will prevent any potential snags or jams and optimize efficiency. – Engage Crew Communication: Establish clear communication between you and your fellow sailors. Develop a system of hand signals or verbal cues to ensure everyone is on the same page during intense maneuvering.
4. Self-Tailing Excellence: Ah, the self-tailing mechanism—the jewel in the winch’s crown! Mastering this feature allows for effortless winching without compromising safety:
– Pre-threading the Line: Before engaging the self-tailing mechanism, ensure that the line is correctly threaded through its jaws/clamps. Proper threading prevents slippage or jamming during operation. – Applying Controlled Tension: While cranking the winch handle, gently apply tension to keep the line securely positioned within the self-tailer’s jaws. Avoid overtightening, as it may impair smooth trimming or even damage parts.
5. Maintenance and Care: To stay captain of your vessel, regular maintenance and care are crucial for optimal winch performance:
– Cleanliness is Key: Regularly rinse winches with freshwater after use to remove saltwater deposits that can corrode internal components. Periodically lubricate gears and pawls with marine-grade lubricant for seamless operation. – Inspect and Replace Parts: Routinely examine winch components like springs, pawls, and gears for any signs of wear or damage. Replace these as needed to ensure reliability when on deck.
Conclusion: Managing a sailing winch effectively can initially seem like an intricate dance requiring coordination, strength, and attention to detail; however, with practice and these essential techniques at your disposal, conquering this task becomes second nature! By mastering proper hand placement, understanding mechanical advantage options, honing multitasking skills, harnessing self-tailing capabilities to your advantage, and maintaining regular upkeep—you will elevate your sailing experience to new horizons of control and finesse. So gear up (pun intended), keep learning, and embrace the exciting challenges that come with sailing winch mastery!
As all seasoned sailors know, sailing winches are essential pieces of equipment that make maneuvering the boat much easier. These mechanical devices allow you to control and adjust sails effortlessly, contributing to smooth sailing experiences. However, like any mechanical system, winches can face common issues that may hinder their proper functioning.
Fear not! In this comprehensive guide, we’re here to address some frequently asked questions regarding troubleshooting these common problems with your sailing winches. So let’s dive in!
1. Why is my winch not turning smoothly?
One of the most common issues sailors encounter with their winches is a lack of smooth turning. This can be caused by various factors such as rust, dirt buildup, or inadequate lubrication. To rectify this problem, start by thoroughly cleaning the winch gears and pawls using a mild detergent and warm water solution. Make sure to remove any accumulated grime or salt deposits that might impede the smooth rotation of the winch handle.
Once cleaned, apply a suitable marine-grade lubricant specifically designed for winches to ensure optimal performance. Remember to clean and grease your winches regularly to prevent future disruptions during your sailing adventures.
2. My winch drum is slipping under load – what should I do?
Winch drums slipping when under load can be incredibly frustrating, especially in critical situations where quick sail adjustments are necessary. The leading cause of slipping is typically worn-out pawls or springs inside the drum assembly.
Firstly, inspect these components carefully for any signs of wear or damage and replace them if necessary. Additionally, check if the tension on your halyard or sheet line is set correctly; excessive tension can overload the drum and lead to slippage.
To avoid future slip-ups (pun intended), consider upgrading your winch’s pawl material from aluminum to stainless steel for improved durability under heavy loads.
3. How do I fix loose handles on my sailing winches?
Loose winch handles can be bothersome, not just because they’re noisy but also due to the potential safety risks they pose. Fortunately, resolving this issue is relatively simple. Start by checking if there’s a retaining pin present on your winch handle. If it’s missing or worn out, replace it with a new one.
Alternatively, you can carefully tighten the handle using an adjustable wrench. Remember not to overtighten; this might lead to difficulties when quickly releasing the handle during an emergency. Striking a balance between security and easy removal is key.
4. Help! My winch is making strange noises – what could be causing this?
Unusual noises emanating from your sailing winches are undoubtedly cause for concern. The first step in addressing these strange sounds is identifying their source. This could include grinding, squeaking, or clicking noises.
Grinding sounds generally indicate that something might be interfering with the gears’ smooth operation. Check for any debris lodged within the gears and remove it promptly.
Squeaking or clicking sounds may suggest that some parts of your winch require lubrication or greasing. Perform regular maintenance by applying an appropriate lubricant to all moving parts, chiefly focusing on pawls, gears, and bearings involved in the drum’s rotation.
5. What should I do if my sailing winch won’t release properly?
A stubbornly locked winch is indeed frustrating when you need immediate sail adjustments or releases in response to changing weather conditions.
Firstly, inspect if there’s any tangled or twisted line causing complications within the self-tailing jaws or around other areas of the drum assembly.
If this doesn’t resolve the issue, ensure that no foreign objects like fishing line or seaweed have become entangled within the drum mechanism – these intrusions can impede smooth operation significantly.
Finally, verify that your release lever operates smoothly and isn’t damaged or obstructed. Lubricating these mechanisms regularly can help prevent future difficulties.
Remember, when in doubt or faced with persistent winch problems, always consult your sailing equipment manufacturer or a professional technician to ensure proper troubleshooting and repair techniques.
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Harken Winches
Lewmar Winches
Andersen Winches
Powerful and high-quality sailboat winches are important for the types of high loads encountered on sheets, guys, halyards and other control lines. On larger boats, the ideal winch will help you reel in a line and increase tension, saving your arms for other tasks. Plain top sailboat winches will require you to tail the loose end to keep tension on your turns while operating the winch. Self-tailing winches free up the hand from the loose end of the rope and facilitating better handling of the winch and winch handle. Electrical winches are available as a solution to short-handed or overpowered sailing. Winches are sold based on material as well, whether you want the lightweight of an aluminum winch, an appealing chrome sailboat winch or if you are looking for the visual aesthetic of a stainless steel yacht winch. Technical assistance is provided to help you select the perfect primary genoa winches, secondary winches, halyard winches or specialty winches for racing or cruising.
Replacing old Sailboat Winches When replacing an old sailboat winch, the new winch doesn't need to have the same specifications as the old one. It is recommended to select a replacement winch that is similar in size and has at least the same power ratio as your old winch. Also, consider whether your old winch had sufficient power to bring your sails to full trim or hoist with a reasonable amount of effort. Many older boats used winches that are underspecified by today's standards and in many cases, it can be beneficial to upgrade a winch to a more powerful size instead of just replacing your boat's old winch. Another consideration to remember is that in many cases Meissner, Barient and Barlow winches did not use the same numbering scheme as modern Harken anderson and Lewmar winches. In the case of Harken anderson and Lewmar winch the number of a winch is prominently the power ratio of that winch. So for example an old Harken 44.2 winch had a power ratio of 44 and a Harken Radial 46.2 Self-tailing winch has a power ratio of 46.5.
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Boats are extraordinary vessels that allow us to truly connect to nature. But they live in harsh environments and many of their components have to take enormous loads just to sail. Winches are one of the key parts of a boat that take the strain so it’s important that you choose the best sailboat winches for you.
Just by closing your eyes it’s easy to feel the wind on your face as your sailboat begins to heel over. As the sails catch the wind and the boat accelerates forward, it’s time to ease the sheets a little. This is where the winch takes over. Weak, undersized or seized winches can spell disaster. If yours are getting old, it could well be time to replace them.
We’ll help you sort out what’s good, what’s not, and what the difference is. Keep reading to find your perfect sailboat winches.
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Lewmar two-speed.
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BEST FOR: Lightweight primary winches
SELF-TAILING: Yes
MATERIAL: Anodized aluminum
PROS: Lightweight for those who want to keep weight down, sleek in black, long warranty, very simple to take apart and put back together for maintenance
CONS: Not as hard-wearing as bronze, black winch gets very hot in the tropics
BEST FOR: Heavily used primary winches
MATERIAL: Chromed bronze
PROS: Very durable and long-lasting, easy to maintain and take apart, upgrade/convert to electric with ease, grippy surface lessens friction
CONS: Quite pricey, short warranty, much heavier than the Lewmar Two-Speed
Check out the latest price on:
BEST FOR: Primary winches looking to impress
MATERIAL: Stainless Steel
PROS: Extremely beautiful to look at, lightweight, durable
CONS: You’re paying extra for the impressive full stainless steel look, not as durable as bronze
BEST FOR: Primary winches using different size lines
PROS: Spring-loaded self-tailing jaw secures different size ropes, shaped drum holds rope without friction, very simple to maintain and put back together, easy to mount, lightweight, convertible to electric
CONS: Very expensive for added extras that may not be necessary
BEST FOR: Older sailors wanting easy-to-use primary winches
PROS: Easy to install below-deck motor, choice of finishes in alloy black or chrome, long warranty
CONS: Quite heavy including the motor, pricey if you don’t absolutely need electric
BEST FOR: Hard-wearing primary winches
PROS: Very durable in chromed bronze, reasonably light for bronze, spring-loaded jaws to take different size ropes, easy to maintain
CONS: Paying extra for chromed look yet still lacks the wow factor of Andersen’s full stainless steel winches, short warranty
BEST FOR: On-mast or racing winches
SELF-TAILING: No
PROS: Bronze construction offers exceptional longevity and durability, grippy drum, two speed offers greater flexibility for use
CONS: A little pricey for non-self-tailing although great materials, short warranty
BEST FOR: Eye-catching racing and on-mast winches
PROS: Looks incredible, smooth drum allows rope to pass easily, easy adjust sheets while racing, aluminum and bronze plates inside for extra durability, great price
CONS: Short warranty, some sailors will prefer a grippy or shaped drum as opposed to smooth
BEST FOR: Bargain on-mast or racing winches
PROS: Very affordable, good for older yachts with on-mast winches, excellent Lewmar construction
CONS: Not as hardwearing as Lewmar’s bronze version, short warranty
BEST FOR: Primary winches for smaller sail areas
PROS: Great price for a self-tailer, radial drum gives grip on rope with needing friction, very easy to maintain and put back together, spring-loaded jaws for holding different size ropes
CONS: One-speed is ideal for smaller sail areas but you may struggle with larger sails, lightweight but not as durable for primary winches as bronze
1. how many winches do you need.
Well made winches can last for many decades but can need replacing for several reasons. Winch technology has moved on and you may want to replace non-self-tailing winches for self-tailing ones. Or your winches may simply be corroding or weakening through age.
It’s often easy to find out how many winches you need by simply counting the existing ones on your sailboat. Rarely used winches may be in much better condition than the same age highly used winches. This allows you to retain rarely used old winches and put the saved money into buying better quality new winches. While that liveaboard boat you hung out on may have had ten winches, chances are, a small yacht will only have two to seven.
Knowing how many winches you need allows you to stick to your budget more closely. You probably won’t need every winch to be the same either. With self-tailing winches ideal for cockpit primary winches, winches on the mast often don’t need to be self-tailing. Further savings can be made from understanding what type of winches you need.
For short-handed sailors, self-tailing winches are all but essential. In fact, having primary self-tailing winches regardless of your crew size will make the cruising sailboat an easy place to be. Of course, if you have a really big yacht, you can use two-way radios to give winchman instructions!
On sailboats where some lines are lead back to the mast and not to the cockpit (i.e. many older sailboats), you don’t need self-tailing winches on the mast. Often you can just get away with a non-self-tailing winch and a cleat nearby.
Sheet winches should ideally be self-tailing while halyard winches can be non-self-tailing.
Winches give you leverage with which to pull in the sails but in particularly strong winds or racing conditions, extra leverage is required. Geared winches provide this extra leverage. With one to four gears, geared winches are also excellent for taking the load for hobby sailors, older sailors and even enthusiastic children!
For an ordinary cruising sailboat (even those who do a spot of club racing), you’ll be choosing between one-speed and two-speed geared and non-geared winches. Three- and four-speed winches are only used by powerful racing boats.
One-speed winches that aren’t geared are the cheapest type of winch and only suitable for small sailboats or as on-mast winches.Each turn of the winch handle equals one turn of the drum, making these unsuitable for large loads.
Geared one-speed winches offer greater mechanical leverage and the handle is ratcheted when turning in the opposite direction. This gives you more power for less movement when cranking up that sail to windward.
Two-speed winches allow the handle to travel in either direction at different speeds. This is great for fast winching with one speed and then switching winching direction for a lower speed as the sail comes in. Two-speed winches typically are geared in one direction and not in the other.
Geared two-speed winches are the same except they are geared in both directions. For the average cruising sailboat or daysailor, geared two-speed primary cockpit winches are the best option. This is especially true for single- or double-handed sailing.
Winches come in different materials. The differences are primarily based on weight, quality, and price.
Super lightweight and affordable, anodized aluminum winches are a popular choice on sailboats.
Bronze is extremely hardwearing, making it a good choice on sailboats. Bronze was the traditional material for winches but it looks outdated on modern yachts. Chromed bronze makes the most of the durable bronze but adds a modern look with a chrome outer layer. These are pricey but excellent winches.
If you’re looking for the best and most durable winches, stainless steel is the way to go. It also looks great and it’s extremely strong. If you look after your stainless steel winches, you may never need to replace them.
Composite boat parts are increasing every year although many traditional sailors prefer metal. Composites are actually very strong, very durable and are impervious to corrosion. The main composite material used in winches (and seacocks) is Marelon. Expensive, but you’ll probably never need to replace them.
Manual winches work by human strength combined with mechanical leverage. For small sailboats, the average sailor will be perfectly happy with manual winches. However, electric winches are becoming more popular and can certainly be of benefit.
Electric winches have a motor placed above-deck or below-deck. Using buttons, electric winches grind the rope for you and some will even release it for you as well.
The main downside of electric winches is their power consumption. As a sailor, you obviously don’t want to be forced to run your engine often just to charge the batteries for your winches! Always check your house battery capacity and work out how much power the winches will use on your typical sailing trips.
Electric winches also have the capacity to act as manual winches in combination with a standard winch handle. This is important because if your batteries or electrical system fails, it’s imperative that you are able to still operate your winches if you’re under sail.
Some sailors want manual winches but would like to have the option to convert those winches to electric. Winches can last many decades and as sailors age, having the option of electric conversion can be reassuring.
Size is another important consideration and is based on boat size and sail area. You can often determine your winch size merely by your existing winches but the main providers also provide charts. Lewmar winch size chart is an excellent resource as is the Harken winch size guide .
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Winches are generally pretty durable with a good long lifetime ahead. Eventually, however, you may have reason to change them out. Perhaps you would like self-tailing or your old winches came from a manufacturer who is no longer in business and parts supply is an issue. Or maybe you want to add another winch for a new function or would like to electrify a manual winch. Whatever the reason, there are a few things to consider when choosing a new winch including size, self-tailing or not, material and fit.
The first thing to do is to size the new winch. You will find an excellent sizing guide in the Harken catalog or below.
Note that the first column (genoa sheet winch - or "Primary" winch as it is often called), sizes the winch based on the 100% foretriangle area of the boat. Many people want to size based on their biggest genoa, but it's when the wind is blowing and we are using reduced sail that the max load is seen by the winch and the max power is required.
Once you know what size winch you need, the next likely decision is whether it should be self-tailing or not. In this day and age, for most people and most functions, self-tailing would be the first choice. In the case of Harken winches, the smallest self-tailing winch is the 15. Anything smaller than the 15 will not be self-tailing. One thing that is important in regard to self-tailers is the line size and type of line. Using very hard high-tech line will require a lot of turns and might not grip well in the jaws. Remember that the jaws want to press the line into a triangular shape to grip it. If you use line that is too big, you might damage the jaws. This is common when people put large diameter line around a winch. Look at the max line size for your chosen winch and don't exceed it. Large diameter line doesn't like going around corners and will show more resistance than thinner diameters. Usually you wouldn't want self-tailing winch tops for primary winches on a racing boat where casting off the rope into a tack is easier without.
Anodized alloy (usually grey or black) is popular and is highly durable, light, and generally more cost effective than other finishes. The second obvious option would be a chrome finish. This is extremely popular on cruising boats and is very attractive. The drum is commonly made from bronze which is then chromed. This results in a durable finish, but a heavier winch and a larger investment. It's worth considering the grip on the winch drum. This will either be a surface grip (where the surface is roughened in some manner) or a form grip (where the actual shape of the drum provides the grip). The form grip is likely to be kinder to your lines. In the case of the Harken Radial winches, the grip is shaped to drive the line towards the bottom of the drum when easing which will help prevent overrides. Performa winches have sandblasted surface grip drums optimized for halyard and sheeting applications using small-diameter, high-tech line. There are other finishes available, such as all-bronze or stainless steel, but these are much less common and will be considerably more expensive and time intensive to maintain.
Once you've made that selection, you are ready to choose your winch. Make sure you have checked that the winch will fit onto the chosen area using the correct dimensions. If you have questions regarding Harken winches, please contact us at 262-691-3320. If you would like to link to or reprint this article please contact [email protected]
Product categories.
Winches utilize drums, motors, gears and controls to provide tension, lifting and pulling functionality across countless applications worldwide.
This definitive guide examines key winch categories based on power systems, drum designs, gear mechanisms, capacities, control interfaces and operating environments.
The simple capstan winch dates back thousands of years. This basic vertical axle around which rope lines wrap resembles a spindle. Originally powered by teams of animals or humans, capstans use leverage for lifting or moving heavy objects like ships, bridge trusses and large gates.
Modern self-tailing capstans have built-in rope tensioning mechanisms continually winding lines around the spindle. Applications include adjustable mooring bollards, theater rigging systems and sailboat halyard winches.
Larger capstans stack multiple modular sections on a common shaft for virtually unlimited capacity and line speeds exceeding 100 feet per minute.
One historic winch variety uses steam power instead of electricity or hydraulics. Early steam winches consisted of double-drum hoisting spools, gearboxes and steam engine boilers providing rotation.
New York’s Brooklyn Bridge famously used two massive steam-powered winches to transport construction materials high above the East River during assembly.
Modern self-propelled steam winches mount compact boiler systems onto versatile lifting/towing platforms. Coal- or oil-fired boilers power pistons, shafts and gears rotating drums lifting up to 50 tons.
Steam winches suit temporary sites lacking electrical infrastructure. Their extreme pulling force handles timber skidding, pipeline work, disaster recovery and other remote applications.
Electric winches encompass an extensive range of capacities, designs and control systems across every industry. Electric motors spin a drum winding/unwinding wire rope or cable using gear reduction for heavier loads.
An electromagnetic brake prevents freespooling. Waterproof toggle switches or wireless remotes enable adjustable speed control for precision lifting and pulling tasks.
Compact electric winches include small trailer winches under 2000 lbs force (lbf). Light truck mounts offer 5000-8000 lbf for vehicle recovery and utility work.
Heavy-duty electric winches provide over 30,000 lbf for industrial lifting, marine operations and offshore applications.
Integrated overload protection, line counters and data loggers enable advanced electric winch capabilities.
Where electric models fall short, hydraulic winches’ unmatched capacities and control excel through brute force. Dedicated power packs generate hydraulic flow/pressure sent to piston motors or orbital gearboxes.
Load-holding valves provide static braking securing multi-ton loads indefinitely – a key advantage over mechanical brakes.
Durable hydraulic winches shrug off tough environments like mining, timber and heavy towing/salvage applications. On cranes and hoists, hydraulic winches precisely manipulate gigantic loads up to 1,000 tons.
Off-roaders use compact hydraulic winches for hardcore rock crawling or mud bogging tirelessly pulling 100,000+ lbf when 12V electric winches burn out.
Heavy-duty hydraulic winch models suit demanding conditions. Heat exchangers withstand temperature extremes. Load cells and electronic interfaces enable real-time performance data integrated with crane operating systems and logistic networks.
Sometimes only manual power will do for lightweight portable applications. Hand crank winches provide a basic mechanical advantage for limited loads using human power instead of motors.
Key uses include small boat trailers, game hoists, ATV accessories and camping/survival gear.
Manual winches utilize gear mechanisms like worm drives or epicyclic gearing reducing the effort for raising, lowering and holding lighter items up to 1000 lbf. Lower gear ratios facilitate reasonable rotation speeds cranking by hand.
One-way roller clutches or brakes prevent uncontrolled reverse spinning when releasing the handle.
Pneumatic air motors power specialized winch designs for environments prohibiting electricity or hydraulics.
Common applications include temporary wastewater treatment facilities, remote disaster response installations, hazardous locations and explosive atmospheres where sparks could trigger catastrophes.
Rotary vane or turbine air motors drive gears connected to drums winding tethers or restraints. Onboard air compressors generate pneumatic power from diesel engines where sufficient plant air is unavailable.
Air winches suit marine applications susceptible to submersion, chemical leaks or volatile cargo. Capacities typically range 1000 – 15,000 lbf for medium loads.
Unique gravity winches utilize gravity instead of motors for controlled descending. Known as “gin poles”, these A-frame pivoting cranes use moveable counterweights for smooth, precise lowering.
Gin pole trucks manipulate objects down to ground level that could catastrophically drop.
Scissor-like bases adjust height aligning loads within the tower’s center of gravity. Adjustable counterbalances dial in just enough downward force to overcome friction, avoiding sudden acceleration.
Common “raise and lower” applications include placing HVAC equipment onto rooftops, retrieving stuck off-road vehicles or lowering valuable cargo from transport aircraft unable to kneel.
Having one drum for winding/unwinding tons of cable seems impressive enough. Some winches feature an entire second spooling drum inline with or adjacent to the primary drum.
Double-drum winches enable simultaneously winding two independent wires or chains on separate spools. This facilitates manipulating complex loads requiring multiple lines like overhaul weights, erecting tall structures or handling unique cargo configurations.
Marine double-drum “gypsy winches” help maneuver ships using separate port and starboard lines. Trapeze crane additions use twin winches controlling the payload’s swing angle.
Double-drum logging winches pull entire trees sideways then lift vertically onboard trucks. Offshore double-drum winches anchor oil platforms plus dynamically position vessels via adjustable lines.
Beyond fundamental winch designs outlined above are specialized variants for extremely heavy or lengthy loads. Massive self-propelled “yarders” provide over 600,000 lbf line pulls maneuvering gigantic objects across remote terrain.
Enormous barge winches use multiple independent drums storing kilometers of thick wire pulling articulated bullnozzles dredging harbors. Tower winches with extendable masts guide tethers way up telecom towers or wind turbines.
Custom winches support airport cargo loading, submarine power cables installation, rocket transport erection and lifting entire rail cars.
Choosing suitable winches depends on several factors:
Frequent full-load operation requires robust cooling and temperatures management absent on lightweight winches prone to overheating or duty cycle limitations.
Around-the-clock lifting/anchoring applications need heavy-duty winching solutions designed for 24/7 availability.
Winch capacity correlates to motor power, gear ratio, drum size and load characteristics. Standard capacities range 500 – 100,000+ pounds force (lbf).
Specialized models reach over one million lbf for mega ship anchors and oil platform decommissioning.
Simple manual winches use basic switches and levers. Larger electric/hydraulic winches have multifunction wireless remotes, network interfaces and programmable automation capabilities.
Choose appropriate controls suiting the operating environment, user skill level and external coordination needs.
Winch braking torque must meet/exceed full lifting capacity to safely hold worst-case loads. Electric and hydraulic systems provide primary brake function, but secondary external brake mechanisms add redundancy vital for handling hazardous loads.
Spool line speeds vary widely from a few feet/minute on manual winches to over 100 ft/min on high-speed towing, anchor and container handling winches. Faster speeds maintain control through momentum but require responsive controls.
This guide examined fundamental winch types based on power systems, drum designs, capacities and controls. Additional specialty winches suit unique heavy load manipulation, high duty-cycle operation and challenging environments. Continued evolution of braking torque, speed, precision and durability empowers smarter winch systems lifting humanity to new heights.
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Harken #40 Radial self-tailing chrome two-speed winch. Harken Radial Winches have angled ribs that drive the line down on the drum when you ease it. Therefore, on a winch with a 10" handle length, 5" drum diameter, and a 6:1 gear ratio, the power ratio is (10/2.5) x 6=24:1. Higher numbers mean that your strength is multiplied more and that the ...
To help you select from the winches described on this site the chart below is designed as a quick reference to match application, yacht size and winch. Cross reference your yacht size (for masthead rigs) or sail area (fractional rigs) with application, to ascertain the correct winch. You can also send your deck and sail plans to your Lewmar ...
Types of Sail Boat Winches: There are two main types of sail boat winches—self-tailing and standard winches. Standard winches require manual tailing or holding onto the sheet while turning the handle to increase or decrease tension. On the other hand, self-tailing winches feature a built-in mechanism that automatically grips and holds onto ...
Manual winches are the most common type of winch found on sailboats. They are operated by turning a handle, which rotates a drum around which the line is wrapped. The mechanical advantage provided by the winch allows you to apply greater force to the line than you could by hand, making it easier to perform tasks such as raising sails or ...
Winch Selection Guide. 18 Dec 2018. Deck winches are an essential piece of kit on board yachts of all sizes. They provide the power for handling high line loads associated with heavy sail hoists and trimming demands during high winds. The right winch will make the sailing experience more efficient and therefore very much more enjoyable.
Additionally, different types of boats have various sailing characteristics; therefore, it's important to select a winch that matches your boat's specific needs. 2) Sailing Conditions: Another essential factor to consider before purchasing a sailboat winch is the typical conditions you will encounter while out on the water.
With the help of a winch, sailors can efficiently handle heavy loads and apply accurate force to trim or release sails. Sailboat winches come in different models to fit various sailing circumstances. Hand, electric and hydraulic winches are three of the most common winch types: Hand Winches. Hand winches are the traditional winch.
Sailing winches are mechanical devices used on sailboats to handle and control the ropes, also known as sheets. They provide the necessary leverage to trim sails efficiently, allowing sailors to adjust sail shape and control boat speed. Winches typically consist of a drum, handle, and gears for transferring force.
Functions of sailboat winches. 1. Hoisting sails. Sailboat winches are primarily used to hoist sails. They make it possible for sailors to raise heavy sails, such as the mainsail or jib, quickly and with minimal effort. 2. Trimming sails. Once the sails are hoisted, winches are used to trim them properly.
BOAT LENGTH OVERALL Application m ft 6.1-7.6 20-25 7.6-8.8 25-29 8.8-10.1 29-33 10.1-10.7 33-35 10.7-11.3 35-37 11.3-11.9 37-39 11.9-12.5 ... Efficient sail handling begins with the selection of the correct winch. To help you select from the winches described in the following pages the chart below is designed as a ...
Winches are to sailboats what the inclined plane was to the Egyptians. They make the difficult easy, place the impossible within reach. The equivalent of a dozen or more men needed to heave on a square rigger's halyard or brace is represented on a modern sailboat by a small, precision-made, cylindrical machine packed with levers and gears. ...
Factors to Consider When Choosing a Sailing Winch. Several factors influence your choice of a sailing winch. The size and type of your boat are primary considerations, as different boats have varying sail control requirements. Sailing conditions and intended use, such as racing or cruising, also play a vital role in determining the appropriate ...
Offshore Sailboat Keel Types; Cockpits—Part 1, Safe and Seamanlike; Cockpits—Part 2, Visibility and Ergonomics; ... given that it takes three full days for two of us to do all the winches on the boat properly. Marc Dacey Reply John Harries February 27, 2021 1:37 pm
The Types of Boat Winches. Boating enthusiasts know that setting sail on the open waters is a thrilling adventure, but it often requires careful preparation and the right equipment to ensure a safe and enjoyable journey. One essential piece of equipment that plays a crucial role in many aspects of boating is the boat winch. Whether you're a ...
A winch is a mechanical device that is used to wind up or wind out a rope. It is essential to the operation of a sailboat because it allows sailors to adjust the tension of the sailboat's rigging. Winches come in various shapes and sizes, but the most common type of winch is the drum winch. The drum winch has a cylindrical shape and is used ...
How To Use A Winch. Winch operation is pretty simple too - after all, it is a simple machine. You wrap the line around the winch three or four times from the bottom up, pulling the line in with one hand and while you crank the winch with the other. On big boats or heavy breeze days, you can team up on a winch with a crew mate, where one person ...
A sailboat winch is a powerful and compact internally gear driven tool that enables you to haul in and hold lines under high loads manually by a single person. Winches will have their size marked on the top of the drum, ex. 20, 35, 40, and so on. This number indicates the power ratio. For example - a #35 winch will provide a 35:1 mechanical ...
The EVO® range of winches meets the needs of sailors and boat builders with a perfect blend of looks, functionality and reliability. We have a range of new race-inspired winches and for short-handed crews, the revolutionary REVO® back-winding winch makes sail handling a breeze. ... Boat Type. Sail (54) Power (3) Boat length. 31-50ft (44) 51 ...
A sailing winch is a mechanical device used to control and adjust sails on a sailboat. It consists of a drum or cylinder around which a line (rope) is wound. By turning the winch handle, you can manually adjust the tension and position of the sail, allowing for better control and maneuverability. 2.
Powerful and high-quality sailboat winches are important for the types of high loads encountered on sheets, guys, halyards and other control lines. On larger boats, the ideal winch will help you reel in a line and increase tension, saving your arms for other tasks. Plain top sailboat winches will require you to tail the loose end to keep ...
Bronze is extremely hardwearing, making it a good choice on sailboats. Bronze was the traditional material for winches but it looks outdated on modern yachts. Chromed bronze makes the most of the durable bronze but adds a modern look with a chrome outer layer. These are pricey but excellent winches.
Fit. Once you've made that selection, you are ready to choose your winch. Make sure you have checked that the winch will fit onto the chosen area using the correct dimensions. If you have questions regarding Harken winches, please contact us at 262-691-3320. If you would like to link to or reprint this article please contact [email protected].
Applications include adjustable mooring bollards, theater rigging systems and sailboat halyard winches. Larger capstans stack multiple modular sections on a common shaft for virtually unlimited capacity and line speeds exceeding 100 feet per minute. Steam Winches. One historic winch variety uses steam power instead of electricity or hydraulics.