ablative paint sailboat

Sailboat Bottom Paint: 10 Best Paints

If you leave your boat without protection, it's beyond question that it will start attracting several marine organisms such as slime, algae, mussels, barnacle, and seaweed. This will cover the bottom of your sailboat and may negatively affect your boat's speed and fuel efficiency.

This is exactly why you need to apply the best sailboat bottom paint on your boat.

The freedom that sailing and being off land gives you are immense and almost unmatched.

But do you know that having multiple organisms such as algae, slime, barnacle, seaweed, and mussels grow on your boat can throw everything out on the wind and leave you with a very unreliable boat?

These pesky hangers will put a huge dent in your boat's speed, its movement, fuel efficiency, and overall aesthetic.

That's why you need the best sailboat bottom paint to greatly minimize any damage that might be caused to your boat's hull by marine biological growth.

Also known as antifouling paint, bottom paint is essentially a paint or coating that's specifically designed with elements that prevent various marine organisms such as algae, seaweed, barnacles, slime, and mussels from attaching themselves to your boat's hull or any other part of the boat that's below the waterline.

One of the most important elements of bottom paint is the inclusion of a biocide and copper is the most common. This may, however, depend on the type of boat that you have, how, and where you always use it.

But because there's an ocean of bottom paints out there on the market, choosing the best sailboat bottom paint can be an overwhelming task for most of us.

Fortunately, you can always count on us to make it a lot easier for you. We've gone through many bottom paints and we do not doubt that we've selected the most effective, reliable, and best sailboat bottom paint.

Our unbiased selections will not only match your needs and budget but will be available in a variety of colors to complement and augment your boat's visual appeal.

Table of contents

What to Consider when Purchasing Sailboat Bottom Paint

If you're on the market for the best sailboat bottom paint, it's crucial to go for top quality; something that will offer efficiency, top speed, and excellent performance for your sailboat. With that in mind, here are a few things to consider before spending your hard-earned money on bottom paint.

Your Sailing Location

Where are you planning to sail? Is it on a freshwater body or in a saltwater location? This is essential in helping you determine whether to go for a bottom paint that's meant for saltwater, freshwater, or both. It's generally recommended that you go for a bottom paint that will serve you perfectly well in both freshwater and saltwater. This gives you the versatility of sailing anywhere without worrying about marine organisms damaging your boat's hull.

Launch Time and Recoat Time

It's important to keep in mind that bottom paint products have specific launch time limits. The idea here is to ensure that you launch it within the required timeframe and ensure that recoating is done as required. You should, therefore, choose a bottom paint that offers a lengthy launch and recoat time while offering durable protection for your vessel is the right thing to do.

Type of Boat

You should determine whether your boat is made of wood, fiberglass, or aluminum and go for bottom paint that's suitable for that particular surface. Many bottom paints work perfectly with fiberglass but some work great with aluminum or wooden surfaces.

The Fouling Condition

Having a deeper idea of the type of fouling that you might deal with can be crucial when buying the right bottom paint for you. Whether you're dealing with slime, algae, mussel, or any other type of marine organism, knowing the type of fouling you're dealing with will make it a lot easier to pick the best sailboat bottom paint for your vessel.

Best Sailboat Bottom Paint

Rust-oleum marine flat boat bottom antifouling paint.

As one of the most respected brand names in the bottom paint industry, Rust-Oleum is known for producing some of the best sailboat bottom paint and the Marine Flat Boat Bottom Antifouling Paint is one of them. This bottom pain is designed to be suitable for various conditions (both freshwater and saltwater) and is designed with moderate copper that works great if you are environment-conscious.

This bottom paint does an excellent job of offering a protective coating to ensure that your boat is free of all sorts of unwanted marine organisms. You'll love this paint because it is thick and spreads so easily and will not be a problem even if you're a beginner. This bottom paint offers top-notch antifouling properties and is very easy to apply as long as you use a soft brush and mix it carefully. This is a great bottom paint choice that will offer a sleek multi-season finish and ensure that your boat's hull is always awesome and in great condition.

• ‍ Easy and simple to apply
• Great for both freshwater and saltwater
• Offers gentle fouling conditions
• Excellent in antifouling
• Offer a sleek and awesome finish
• ‍ Quite expensive
• Has a very strong smell that can cause headache

Interlux Fiberglass Bottomkote Antifouling Paint

This is another great brand that is considered as one of the best bottom paint in the sailing world. Even though it's a bit pricey, it offers great features that will ensure that your boat remains in tip-top shape. It is an excellent option if you're looking for a sailboat bottom paint that brings to the fore a unique dual resin approach.

This is a very reliable bottom paint that will not only prevent your boat's hull from the effect of marine organisms but also prevent premature deterioration. It offers an awesome polishing action and is perfecting if you want to discard unnecessary paint buildup. This bottom paint is also very economical and a small quantity will cover a considerable surface area of your boat's bottom.

This is, without a doubt, a superb buy in terms of its practicality and economical nature. It is excellently formulated to prevent marine organisms from damaging your boat and also to ensure that premature wear and tear doesn't exist in your vocabulary.

• ‍ It's formulated with a unique dual resin approach to prevent premature wear and tear
• It prevents early decline
• It prevents unnecessary paint buildup
• Great for ensuring that your boat is fuel effective
• Great for all conditions (both freshwater and saltwater)
• ‍ It's expensive
• The quantity and size can be misleading

TotalBoat JD Select Bottom Paint

As one of the few bottom paints that's formulated with low Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC), this bottom paint is one of the most cost-effective on this list. With one gallon, you can easily cover about 400 square feet and the application is a breeze since it's even much easier to clean up.

When you purchase this bottom paint, the package will come complete with a pair of latex gloves, a wooden stir stick, an abrasive pad, a metal tray kit, a paint suit, a roller, a painter's tape, and many more. The inclusion of all these accessories makes it a quite cost-effective purchase.

Again, this is one of the most durable bottom paints. Apply it on your boat's hull and you're guaranteed that it will offer excellent protection for the next 18 months. On the downside, this paint is too thick and you'll have to buy an excellent thinner for it to work perfectly.

Nonetheless, this is an ablative bottom paint that is easy to apply and does an excellent job of protecting your boat's bottom for close to two years.

• ‍ Perfect for all conditions
• Easy to apply and clean up
• Can improve your boat's speed and fuel efficiency
• Comes with all accessories required for the paint job
• It's one of the best water-based bottom paint products in the industry
• It contains low VOC
• ‍ You'll need a top-quality thinner for it to work perfectly

Aquaguard Water-based Antifouling Bottom Paint

An excellent choice for both wooden and fiberglass boats, this is the most perfect bottom point for saltwater conditions. This is a water-based bottom paint that's very easy to apply and clean up (using soap and water) and is formulated with an ablative action that makes it superb for preventing any marine organism that may negatively affect your boat.

This is a bottom paint that is EPA-approved and surpasses the set VOC standards. It has an extended shelf life and offers durable protection for your sailboat. It doesn't contain toxic fumes and is great even for novices. Its drying time is also excellent, so you won't wait for far too long to get your boat out there on the water.

• ‍ Excellent for saltwater conditions
• Application and cleaning is very easy
• It's approved by the US EPA
• You don't have to use a primer
• ‍ The color selection is limited
• A bit pricey

Pettit Hydrocoat

This is another water-based bottom paint that offers outstanding ablative properties that will protect your boat from marine organisms throughout the seasons. It offers good value for money and is easy to apply and clean up with just water and soap.

We're talking about a bottom paint product that will protect your boat's hull for months on end. You also do not need a full tank of the paint to complete the job. With just a single gallon, you can be sure to complete an area as big as 430 square feet.

This is also one of the few bottom paints that can perfectly prevent your boat from damage when being trailered, launched, or beached. More importantly, it's not irritating to the nose and eyes because it has low VOC.

• ‍ It will dry in 3 hours
• It's easy to apply and clean up
• It offers multi-season protection
• It's not irritating to the eyes and nose
• It's quite economical
• ‍ May not be the best in antifouling
• You have to apply at least two coats

SEA HAWK PAINTS Aluminum Boat Paint

One of the best aluminum boat paints in the market, this bottom paint is formulated to offer quick-dry corrosion-blocking, high-solid features. This bottom paint is specifically manufactured to be used in aluminum boats and doesn't require the addition of any primer.

While it doesn't have an antifouling feature, it stands out and can be used both below and above the waterline as it is risk-free and free or chromate. It is also formulated to offer a unique dual resin approach and can be used both as paint and a primer at the same time.

This is a great paint for both freshwater and saltwater conditions and can be applied as a primer or topcoat on a fiberglass boat. This is an excellent sailboat boat bottom paint that's worth every coin as it is practical, versatile, and can combat both rusting and lifting.

• ‍ The application and cleanup process is easy
• Great for both freshwater and saltwater conditions
• It doesn't require a primer
• Can be used as primer or topcoat in fiberglass boats
• Can prevent rusting and lifting
• It has quick-dry and anti-corrosion features
• ‍ Can produce deadly fumes

TotalBoat Spartan Boat Bottom Paint

If you've been looking for a practical, reliable, and cost-effecting bottom paint that will offer durable performance and protection, the Spartan Boat Bottom Paint. Perfect for both freshwater and saltwater, it can be perfect for protecting your boat and ensuring that it is fuel-efficient and reliable.

This bottom paint is formulated with advanced copolymer ablative to ensure that it doesn't deteriorate instantly. This is a very dependable bottom paint that will serve you perfectly throughout the year and will ensure that your boat easily defies fouling while reducing unnecessary buildup and sanding on your boat.

This is a very adaptable bottom paint that not only offers great value for money but is very easy to apply. More importantly, it is very durable and will protect your vessel for at least 12 months on any type of water.

• ‍ Great for all types of water
• It offers a very durable protection
• Available in a wide variety of color selection
• Offer a visually appealing abrasion-proof finish
• ‍ The included accessories aren't up to the right quality

To this end, we must put a lot of emphasis on the importance of having the right bottom paint for your boat. In addition to being an antifouling agent, bottom paint will significantly increase the fuel efficiency of your boat and ensure that it performs optimally at all times. Of course, you do not want to diminish your sailing escapades or have your nice and beautiful vessel damaged by marine organisms just because you didn't apply the right sailboat bottom paint. If you're unsure how to proceed, here's how to paint a sailboat.

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Daniel Wade

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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Which Bottom Paint Should I Use?

What is Boat Bottom Paint?

Bottom paint is applied below the waterline on your boat, and typically refers to antifouling paint that prevents marine growth from clinging to your hull. Barnacles and slime can slow you down and increase your fuel costs because the engine has to work harder to move your boat through the water. A bottom full of barnacles and weeds can also put you in harm’s way because it can seriously hamper your ability to maneuver.

The key antifouling ingredient is some type of biocide for deterring hard marine growth such as barnacles and mussels. Some antifouling paints also include an algaecide for preventing soft growth like algae, slime and weeds. There are many different antifouling coatings, making it hard to choose the paint that’s right for your boat and your budget. Some coatings work better in different locations, including fresh or salt water. Some are more environmentally friendly than others, and some cost more based on the amount and type of biocide, and the protection they provide.

Do I Need Bottom Paint on My Boat?

If you pull your boat out of the water every time you use it, you probably don’t need bottom paint. But if you keep your boat in the water all season, or if you take your boat out of the water periodically, such as on a trailer or lift, then yes, you should apply bottom paint to prevent hull fouling. Same goes whether you keep your boat in salt water or fresh water.

What are the Different Types of Antifouling Paints?

All bottom paints are not the same and will not be effective for all boats, in all waters and fouling conditions, and for all types of boating. Bottom paints are usually one of two types: hard or ablative, with variations that are effective based on how much time the boat spends in the water and how often it moves. For example, hard bottom paints are effective for a single season, and they build up season after season, eventually requiring costly removal. Ablative paints come in single-season and multi-season varieties and don’t build up.

Ablative Bottom Paint

Ablative paint is designed to gradually wear away as water flows beneath the hull, either from use or from the movement of tides and currents. Fresh biocide is exposed as the paint layers wear away, preventing marine fouling organisms from attaching to the surface. Some ablative paint formulas are for multi-season use, and some are effective for only a single season. Also, ablative bottom paint can be copper-based or copper-free, and water-based or solvent-based. For most ablative paints to work effectively, motion is required, so this paint is best if you use your gets frequent use.

Self-Polishing Copolymer Ablative Bottom Paint

This type of antifouling paint also wears away gradually to expose fresh layers of biocide, but the self-polishing properties of its controlled-release copper copolymer formula make it work whether the boat is at anchor or underway. Some copolymer ablatives are effective for multiple seasons, and need only a light scuffing to reactivate the antifouling in the spring, just before launching.

Hybrid Copolymer Ablative Bottom Paint

Hybrid bottom paints are self-polishing and release biocides at a controlled rate like copolymer bottom paints do, but hybrid paints can be burnished–like a hard bottom paint–for smoothness and speed. Unlike hard bottom paints, hybrid paints have less buildup to remove next season.

Hard Bottom Paint

A hard bottom paint coating doesn’t wear away like an ablative coating does, it just loses its biocide over time. The biocide in hard bottom paints leaches constantly while the boat is in the water, whether the boat is moving or not. Hard paints lose their effectiveness once all the biocide leaches out. Because hard bottom paint doesn’t wear away, it builds up and has to be sanded down before reapplying bottom paint the next season. Also, hard bottom paints generally become rendered inactive one the boat is hauled out of the water, so they’re best for boats that remain in the water for extended periods. They’re also ideal for racing boats or boats operated at faster speeds because the hard paint coating can be burnished to increase smoothness and speed.

Questions to Answer Before Buying Bottom Paint

What is my boat made of.

When it comes to choosing bottom paint, substrate (surface) is a big consideration. Do you have an aluminum, fiberglass, steel or wooden boat? Most bottom paints contain some type of copper biocide, which is suitable for fiberglass and wooden boats, but not for aluminum. The copper in the paint causes galvanic corrosion, which will destroy an aluminum boat or pontoon boat. For antifouling protection on aluminum boats and underwater metal parts, you have to apply a copper-free bottom paint .

Inflatable boats made of PVC, Hypalon or other materials also need bottom paint if they’re left in the water for long periods. Ablative bottom paints designed for inflatable boats won’t crack after drying or peel while you’re rolling up the inflatable for storage.

Where Do I Use or Keep My Boat? Location is Everything!

What are the fouling conditions in your area? By ‘area’ we mean not only the geographic location, but the specific harbor, and even your location in the harbor. Why? Because the fouling conditions can be that location-specific. Is the fouling light, moderate, or heavy in your part of the harbor? Typically, more biofouling occurs in waters that are warm and still, rather than colder waters where water flow is unrestricted.

Is My Boat in Fresh Water or Salt Water?

Barnacles, algae and slime are the bane of boat owners who do their boating in salt water. And even though boats left in freshwater don’t have to worry about barnacles, they can still get slimy and grow green beards. If algae slime and algae are a problem, you’ll want a paint that contains an algaecide such as zinc pyrithione (this applies to copper-free biocides, too). If you do your boating in freshwater lakes, look for bottom paints designed specifically for freshwater fouling. Why pay for extra protection you don’t need?

How Often Do I Use My Boat?

If you use your sailboat or power boat frequently, ablative bottom paint is a great choice because it’s most effective when the boat moves through the water to release fresh biocide. If you don’t use your boat as often and it spends a lot of time at the doc or on the mooring, your best bet would be a self-polishing copolymer paint that’s effective whether the boat is moving or not. In addition, brief boating seasons are suitable for a single-season antifouling paint , but for a longer boating season, it can be more effective and economical to apply a multi-season bottom paint . If you trailer your boat, a harder ablative antifouling paint that can withstand trailering and beaching might be the way to go.

Do I Want to Use My Boat for Racing?

If you want to race your boat or you just want to make your boat go faster, use a thin film bottom paint, a hard modified epoxy bottom paint, or a hybrid bottom paint that can be burnished. Burnishing involves wet sanding or using a Scotch-Brite® pad to make the surface smoother.

Should I Use Solvent-Based Bottom Paint or Water-Based Bottom Paint?

Environmental restrictions in some areas prohibit the use of solvent-based paints due to their high VOC (volatile organic compound) content. If this is the case, you can apply a water-based, low VOC bottom paint . Water-based bottom paint offers easy cleanup and is very effective against marine fouling.

A common misconception about water-based bottom paint is that it will dissolve and leave the hull with no antifouling protection once the boat is in the water. Not true. Once cured, the water in water-based bottom paint evaporates and leaves a protective film containing the biocide.

Should I Use Copper-Based or Copper-Free Bottom Paint?

Again, environmental restrictions may dictate the use of copper-free antifouling bottom paint. Typically, a higher percentage of copper in the paint means it’ll be more effective at combating shell fouling. But copper-free bottom paint containing the eco-friendly biocide Econea™ (tralopyril) has proven very effective on shell fouling such as acorn barnacles and zebra mussels. If you have an aluminum boat, you have to use a copper-free antifouling paint to avoid galvanic corrosion, which will destroy aluminum. Underwater metals also need bottom paint that’s copper free .

What Type of Bottom Paint is on My Boat Now?

If there’s bottom paint on your boat now, it’s really important that your new bottom paint is compatible with the old bottom paint. You don’t want your new paint to peel, so you need to find out what the previous paint is. If you can’t determine that, you’ll need to strip off the old paint completely and start over. Antifouling paint formulas change often, but here are some general compatibility and surface preparation guidelines. For best results, read the bottom paint manufacturer’s recommendations.

How Much Do I Want to Spend On Bottom Paint?

Typically, the higher concentration of biocide a bottom paint has, the more expensive it will be. Hard bottom paints are typically less expensive than ablative antifouling paints. Among the ablative marine paints, the single-season ablatives are typically less expensive than the multiple season ablatives.

How Much Bottom Paint Do I Need?

The amount of bottom paint varies depending on how big your boat is and how heavily you apply the bottom paint. Refer to the paint manufacturer’s details on coverage amounts (typically given in square feet per gallon). Here’s an easy formula for figuring out the square footage of your hull below the waterline, where you’ll be applying bottom paint.

Length (in feet) x Beam (in feet) x .75 Here are some typical estimates for various types of boats. These estimates assume you’re applying two coats, and that you’ll be coating the surface as thickly as possible without drips or runs.

How Often Should I Bottom Paint My Boat?

How long does boat bottom paint last? Depends on the type of bottom paint you use and your boating conditions. Typically, you should apply bottom every year, but there are some bottom paints that last multiple seasons. If you use your boat regularly or keep it in the water, check it every year to see if you need to reapply bottom paint.

Hints to Help You Choose the Right Bottom Paint for Your Boat

• Ask other boaters in your local marina – they’re a prime source of information about what works and what doesn’t in your particular location.
• If you want to paint in the fall and launch in spring without repainting, choose a multi-season self-polishing copolymer paint . This type of bottom paint has an unlimited launch window.
• All bottom paint manufacturers have a chart that shows the compatibility of their bottom paints with those of existing brands. Be sure to take a look at the compatibility chart before you buy.

TotalBoat Bottom Paint Comparison Chart

* Krypton provides full-season protection in salt water, where the water flow is unrestricted. It can provide multi-season protection in fresh water conditions. If you have any questions about which bottom paint to use, please call our Tech Support Team at (800) 497-0010.

Krypton Copper-Free Antifouling Bottom Paint

JD Select Water-Based Bottom Paint

Underdog Boat Bottom Paint

TotalProtect Epoxy Barrier Coat Primer

TotalFair Epoxy Fairing Compound

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Bottom Paint Test: Practical Sailor Takes a Close Look at The Long-Term Performance of Two Dozen Antifouling Paints.

Long-term tests on hard and soft bottom paints in both florida and connecticut look at antifouling performance six months after application and 18 months after application..

Results from years of Practical Sailor bottom paint testing prove that nearly all existing antifouling paints provide exceptional protection against hard growth. The devil is in the detail of how well they protect against the speed-robbing buildup of soft marine organisms. Manufacturers attempt to provide protection from hard and soft growth, while balancing environmental impact issues, increasing regulatory concerns, and rising prices for raw materials. To top it off, boaters demand easier application, brighter colors, and less toxic paints. All of these needs and wants have resulted in a plethora of paints hitting the marketplace.

At PS, we try to sort through this maze of antifouling choices and provide our readers with enough useful information to make the proper paint selection for their particular circumstance. When makers offer everything from hard racing paints to super-soft ablatives, bright colors, brilliant whites, eco-friendly paints, and water-based products with prices ranging from $70 a gallon to a staggering $250 a gallon, even an experienced hand needs some help. Our job is to help you find the right paint for your boat at the right price.

On this go-round of our biannual bottom paint review, well present the first results from our most recently painted panels (June 2007), an 18-month update of our June 2006 panels, and the results of the head-to-head tests on our test boats.

The Value Guide tables are divided into hard paints and ablative/copolymer categories. Hard paints tend to have a smooth, hard finish with reduced water drag and the ability to stand up to hand scrubbing without shedding paint material into the water. For racers and trailer-sailers, a hard paint is a good choice. But as a boat is repainted year after year, a hard paint can build up layers on the hull. After several years, that buildup will need to be stripped and fresh coats applied. This extra work of stripping paint should be considered when pricing a hard paint for your boat.

Ablative paints prevent marine growth by slowly sloughing off material over time. These paints can vary in hardness from super soft to harder copolymers. Your boatyard bill will likely be somewhat lower with this type of paint, so long as your boat moves enough to shed the majority of the paint. Usually all it takes to clean an ablative-painted boat bottom is a quick pressure wash.

Not all ablatives are soft. In fact, some are quite hard and can even be burnished. One example is Pettits Vivid, which the company describes as a hard ablative good for racing boats and trailer-sailers.

How We Tested

Our modus operandus remains the same as it has been for the last several years of our bottom paint reviews. Maintaining consistent procedures and protocols keeps everything fair and evenhanded. This is how we prepare and paint the panels we set out during the summer each year. Testers start with brand-new polyester/fiberglass panels. They get washed with a de-waxing solvent to remove any wax or mold-release agent, then they get sanded lightly with fine-grit sandpaper to take the sheen off the glass. Finally, each sheet is handwashed with solvent to wipe the surface clean of any leftover fiberglass dust.

Panels are then taped into 10 sections. Each paint sample is bordered by an unpainted area. Panels are hung in the water to simulate the paint near the waterline on the side of a boat hull.

Testers follow the manufacturers instructions for the number of coats and method of application. Individual panels are identified by a code drilled into the panel. This identification system can be read no matter how much marine growth might obstruct the unpainted portions of the panels. When testers pull the panels, they rate the paints with no reference to the name or manufacturer.

All paints are tested in two geographical locations: a saltwater canal in the Florida Keys (Tavernier, Fla.) and along a boatyard dock in Long Island Sound (Groton, Conn.). At any given time, we have two sets of panels at each location. For this report, all the panels were pulled in December 2007. Before assigning ratings, testers sluiced the panels with buckets of seawater. An Excellent rating is given to paints that show virtually no growth. This is an absolute rating and does not vary from test to test. Good and Fair ratings are relative to the field and can vary from rating session to rating session, based on the overall condition of the paints on a particular panel set. Good ratings go to those paints with a minimum of soft growth while coatings with Fair ratings have clearly allowed more soft growth to occur. Poor ratings are given to panels with hard growth. Again, the Poor rating is an absolute and does not change from test to test.

We would like to emphasize that the difference between a Good and a Fair rating is relative and can change from one rating period or panel set to another. This means an individual paint could improve, for example, from Fair to Good depending on the overall condition of the group being rated. Over the years, most paints have received many ratings. Ratings do vary to some extent when reviewed over the long term based on a number of factors, including water temperatures, current flow, tide height, and the number and variety of marine organisms present in an area.

Once ratings are recorded, editors identify overall winners and the top paints in the various categories-ablative, hard, eco-friendly, and water-based paints. Most of the Recommended paints scored Good or better in both locations or a combination of Excellent and Fair. In our opinion, any paint consistently rating Fair or better is worth using on your boat. If some similar paints scored equally in both locales, we gave the nod to the lower-priced product.

Some paint manufacturers have pointed out that our testing does not involve moving panels, which puts some paints, the ablative ones in particular, at a disadvantage. We do follow up our panel testing with real-world testing on various boats. Generally, these real-world tests support the conclusions of the panel tests, leading us to believe that the biannual sluicing of the panels simulates the effects of boat moving through the water. Nevertheless, the variables in seasons and locations are so great that we advise readers to supplement this report with previous Practical Sailor tests, and other available information from users in your specific area.

For pricing, we scour the web to find the lowest price for each paint, but prices can change, so shop before you buy. This year, we saw only a limited number of prices increase and one price even decrease.

Narrowing the Field

The test panels that were painted and submerged in summer 2007 had fewer paints than in previous years. Even with the handful of new paint additions, testers trimmed the total number down to 58 from a high of 66 in 2006. We decided not to apply any rebranded duplicates this past year and will follow this protocol when we paint our 2008 panels this summer. Below is a short list of the products still being tested and their rebranded counterparts that were cut: Pettit Unepoxy Standard is West Marine Bottomshield; Pettit Trinidad SR is West Marine BottomPro Gold; Pettit Premium is West Marine CPP; Pettit Ultima SR is West Marine PCA Gold; Pettit SR-21 is West Marine FW-21; Blue Water Coppershield 45 Hard is MarPro Superkote Hard; Copper Pro SCX 67 is SeaBowld Ablative 67 Pro.

Rookies and Retreads

We applied a handful of new paints to our June 2007 test panels and reintroduced one paint that had been absent from our testing for the last several years. The December panel pull was our first look at these panels.

The majority of the first-year paints tested did not stand out in our six-month review. The two best were Aquagard Alumi-Koat, and the returning Super Ship Bottom from Innovative. These two each managed to get one Fair and one Good rating.

Two other newbies managed only to get Fair in both locales. They included Epaint ZO HP, a very expensive ($249) hard paint, and Sea Hawks AF33.

The worst performing rookie was PhaseCoat UFR from Microphase. It was rated Poor in Florida and Fair in Connecticut. Microphase recently pulled the paint from the market; read more about it in “We Want it All and We Want it Now,” on page 30.

Conclusions

We singled out Interlux Micron 66 as our Top Choice. This $210 a gallon ablative/copolymer garnered across-the-board Good ratings in both locales for the last 18 months as well as earning an Excellent in Florida and Good in Connecticut on our newest test panels. According to Jim Seidel, Interlux assistant marketing manger, Interlux has removed the professional application line from the label of Micron 66 and will be stocking it on the shelves of marine shops, stores, and chandleries around the country, making it available for the DIY-er.

Our Budget Buy paint and one of the top three in Connecticut was Blue Water Copper Shield 45 Hard. This $80-a-gallon paint narrowly missed an Excellent rating in Connecticut due to a small amount of soft growth. It earned Fair and Good ratings long term and at six months. Our second Budget Buy is the Pettit Unepoxy Standard, currently priced at $80 a gallon. This was one of the top Florida paints with Good ratings at six months and mostly Fair with some Good ratings over the long haul.

Our top picks for water-based paints go to Interlux Fiberglass Bottomkote Aqua and Pettit Hydrocoat. Both earned Good ratings in Connecticut and Florida at six months. Fiberglass Bottomkote Aqua was one of three top paints in Connecticut and costs $112 per gallon. Despite its single-season rating, it managed to maintain at least Fair ratings through 18 months. At $105 per gallon, the Hydrocoat gets the Budget Buy rating for ablatives. It managed half-Good and half-Fair ratings over 18 months.

If you need a bright-colored or white bottom paint, our top choices remain Pettit Vivid and Blue Water Kolor. For an aluminum hull, wed give Flexdel Aquagard Alumi-Koat a try. It earned a Good in Florida and a Fair in Connecticut at six months. At $149 per gallon, it is the least expensive aluminum-compatible paint in our test that earned a Good.

At six months, other recommended hard paints are Interlux Ultra-Kote and VC Offshore, and Sea Hawk Tropikote. Other recommended ablatives are Pettit Horizons, Copper Shield SCX 45, and Blue Water Copper Shield 45, which was one of the top performers in Connecticut.

• Practical Sailor Value Guide: Hard Paints at 6 Months
• Practical Sailor Value Guide: Ablative/Copolymer Paints at 6 Months
• 18-Month Report
• Practical Sailor Value Guide: Bottom Paints at 18 Months
• Market Watch

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Boat Improvements for the Technically Illiterate

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Thing that I’ve learned though, some products definitely work better then others for different parts of the county. Some areas have less water movement, more/less brackish waters, and many other contributing factors for bottom growth. What works in south Florida, does not work in the northern pan handle of Florida, promise you that one!

Just like fishing tackle. Sure this lure dominates in the Gulf, but won’t catch a fish in the Atlantic.

Love seeing this test done though! I’d like to try it in the northern Gulf. (Hard to test year to year due to variable weather/water temperatures. Warmer winter cause more growth like this winter.)

-Tight Lines!

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How Long Does Boat Bottom Paint Last?

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While death and taxes may be better known, there's a third certainty in life many boat owners face that's often viewed with just as much trepidation.

Photo: Frank Lanier

Ever since our first troglodytic ancestor shoved off astride his trusty log, mariners have tried most every concoction imaginable to keep waterborne critters and growth at bay, from mixtures of tar, sulfur, and brimstone, to paints laced with tin, arsenic, pesticides, and even the occasional jar of chili powder. Although environmental concerns have relegated the most noxious mixtures of yesteryear to the dustbin of history, bottom paint still remains a complex topic. Here's a look at what bottom paint is, its application, and how to find the one that's right for you.

What Is Bottom Paint, Anyway?

Bottom paint (aka antifouling paint) is a paint or coating designed to discourage weeds, barnacles, and other aquatic organisms from attaching themselves to (and in the case of wooden boats, eating) the underwater portion of your boat's hull. Bottom paints have traditionally accomplished this by inclusion of a biocide, with copper being the most commonly used today. In general, the more copper or other biocide a paint contains, the more effective (and costly) it is. Copper replaced tin, the previous biocide of choice for decades, now banned in most marine applications due to the environmental damage it caused while leaching into the waters of the world. While copper may still be king, the latest generation of eco-labeled bottom paints utilize little or no copper, a response to the increased scrutiny copper-based paints have received as potential environmental pollutants.

Bottom Paint — Who Needs It?

If your boat stays in the water year round or during most or all of the boating season, application of bottom paint is pretty much the rule. For boats left in the water for short periods of time (that two-week summer vacation, for example) or that are stored out of the water (trailer, lift, dry storage facility), a good coat of wax and regular cleaning are typically all that's needed to maintain a clean hull.

If your boat has never been bottom painted and you're mulling over the idea, make sure you understand that once bottom paint is applied, the die is cast, and that periodic bottom-paint application, cleaning, and renewal become a permanent part of the vessel's routine maintenance schedule. Another consideration is that the application of bottom paint in some cases (particularly on trailer-sized boats) may be viewed as a negative to potential buyers if you decide to sell later on.

DIY Or Yard?

The only allure of doing your own bottom job (cleaning, prepping, and applying antifouling paint) is saving money. It's a messy, tedious job that isn't fun by any stretch of the imagination, but it's not rocket science, either. Owners comfortable with DIY projects can do their own bottom job with satisfactory results, as long as they follow the manufacturer's instructions and rules regarding containment of old bottom paint during removal (as well as proper disposal afterward). Many bottom paints are toxic and have to be treated as such; some even require a pesticide license or other special permit to apply. As such, any potential DIYers will need to ensure they're thoroughly familiar with the entire application process and follow all required safety precautions and practices, such as the use of respirators, protective clothing, etc. In addition, many boatyards have their own rules about boaters taking on this chore.

Paying a professional to tackle the job has several advantages. The time and effort required for a bottom job can (and likely will) be greater than many newcomers estimate, particularly if the hull is in need of substantial prep work prior to painting (i.e. removal of old paint buildup, blister repairs, etc.). The possibility of this "unexpected" extra time should be factored in when weighing the savings of a DIY approach versus the yard, as should the ancillary costs of painting equipment and safety gear.

What's Your Type?

Despite seemingly endless choices, traditional bottom paints can be divided into three broad groups: ablative, hard, and hybrid paints.

Ablative (aka self-polishing) paints gradually wear away a tiny bit at a time to reveal fresh biocide as your boat moves through the water (think a bar of soap that wears away each time it's used). One advantage to this is that as long as paint remains on your hull, you know it's working to prevent growth (like that soap bar, which may get smaller, yet still lathers up). Another benefit is that as it's constantly wearing away, there's no buildup of old paint, which can be a pain to remove when the time comes. But ablative paints can be less effective if your boat remains idle for extended periods of time, which denies it that self-cleaning action provided by water movement. The flipside to this self-cleaning feature is that ablatives aren't a good choice for fast-moving boats, which would accelerate the ablation process and cause rapid paint loss.

With hard bottom (aka non-sloughing or hard modified epoxy) paints, it's the copper biocide that gradually wears away (rather than the paint itself), allowing the water to penetrate deeper and deeper into the paint until all biocide is depleted. Hard-bottom paints form a tough, hard coating that holds up well and doesn't wear away, making them a good choice for faster boats. They can even be burnished, allowing racers to squeeze every possible bit of speed from their hull. On the downside, when the copper is depleted, the hard, tough coating remains and it can be messy and difficult to remove, particularly if multiple layers of paint have been added over the years. Eventually this accumulated paint reaches critical mass, becoming so thick it begins to crack and peel, necessitating a complete stripping of the hull.

Bottom paint is a "must have" for boats that spend most of the year in the water. (Photo: Billy Black)

Hybrid or semi-hard ablative paints bridge the gap between ablative and hard paints by incorporating the benefits of both into a single product. They provide a hard, smooth surface that resists buildup yet holds up to faster speeds and repeated haul-outs without loss of protection.

The type of boat you have plays a significant role in bottom-paint selection. Highspeed powerboats will want to use a hard or possibly hybrid bottom paint — ablative paints simply won't last as long at speed. Trailerable boats are best off without bottom paint, but if that's not an option, consider a hybrid paint, which will hold up better throughout the constant launch and haul-out cycles (most hard paints can't tolerate being out of the water for extended lengths of time). Slower craft can use hard, hybrid, or ablative type paints, but the benefits of the latter two (no buildup, self-cleaning, etc.) should be considered when choosing. (For an indepth review of bottom paints and long-term test results, see Practical Sailor magazine .)

Application Considerations

For boats not currently painted, application is simply a matter of following the paint manufacturer's instructions for application to a new or unpainted hull. If your boat is currently painted, you have a few considerations to address before repainting. Not all bottom paint types are compatible, so unless you plan on removing ALL of the existing bottom paint, the paint you currently have will influence your choice of new paint. If you know the brand/type of bottom paint on your boat now, the options are straightforward — either continue to use the same paint or (if using a different paint) consult manufacturer specs for both paints (old and new) to ensure compatibility.

If you don't know who the manufacturer of your current paint is and plan on painting over it, at a minimum you'll need to determine whether it's a hard, semi-hard, or ablative type. One straightforward way to do this is by rubbing the existing bottom paint with a wet rag. If the paint readily rubs off, it's most likely ablative. The general rule is that ablative paints can be applied over properly prepared hard or semi-hard paints, but hard or semi-hard paints can't be applied over ablative paints (which wouldn't provide a proper adhesive surface for the hard paint). For those wanting to switch from soft to hard paint, the ablative paint would need to be removed first.

Depending on the paint and its condition (i.e. good adhesion, no flaking, etc.), proper surface preparation of your old paint can range from a light sanding to complete removal or application of a primer coat. New paint adhesion will only be as good as the paint beneath it, meaning paint in poor condition or showing signs of significant adhesion failure must be removed. Err on the side of removing more paint rather than less, but beware: If your boat has a barrier coat applied, make sure your methodof bottom paint removal doesn't damage or remove it along with the old paint.

Choosing A Paint

As you can tell by the sheer number of bottom paints on the market, no one type or brand works best in all water, weather, and locations. A boat moored in Maryland will require a different antifouling paint from one cruising tropical waters. One of the best sources of information on which paints work best for a particular area is your local boatyard manager. Fellow boat owners can also provide valuable local knowledge regarding which paints work best in your location. Finally, many bottom paint manufacturers such as Interlux and Pettit offer online charts and tables to assist in choosing the right antifouling paint for you boat and location.

While there are plenty of bottom paints to choose from, there's no magic bullet that stops growth altogether. Boats kept in the water year round or for the season will still require regular cleaning and periodic hauling for repainting. In northern climes where boats are hauled annually, bottom jobs are usually rolled in with the other spring launch preparation rituals. Bottom job schedules for other locations vary, but are typically required every two to three years.

Rejuvenating Hard Or Semi-Hard Bottom Paints

Refer to manufacturer instructions for your specific paint, but the following are general guidelines for launching and relaunching of vessels with hard or semi-hard (modified) paints applied.

• Newly painted boats — Launch delays of up to 60 days after painting with no loss of performance or special requirements necessary
• Boats launched two to 12 months after painting — Scuff-sand with abrasive pad or 220-grit sandpaper prior to launch
• Boats launched more than 12 months after painting — Light sanding with 100-grit sandpaper followed by recoating

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Frank Lanier

Contributing Editor, BoatUS Magazine

Capt. Frank Lanier is a SAMS-accredited marine surveyor with over 40 years of experience in the marine and diving industries. He’s an author, public speaker, and multiple award-winning journalist whose articles on boat maintenance, repair, and seamanship appear regularly in numerous marine publications worldwide. Contact him via his YouTube channel “Everything Boats with Capt. Frank Lanier” or at captfklanier.com.

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• Paint & Maintenance
• Antifouling Boat Bottom Paint

Ablative Bottom Paint

Interlux Fiberglass Bottomkote NT

Interlux Fiberglass Bottomkote NT Antifouling Marine Paint Not all antifouling paint is equal in quality. That’s why Wholesale Marine only carries the top industry brands, including Interlux, an industry leader in marine paints. They have been...

Interlux Micron CSC Antifouling Bottom Paint

Interlux Micron CSCAntifouling Bottom Paint Interlux is an industry leader in ablative bottom paints, and it is trusted by boat owners for its long-lasting quality products. Interlux Micron CSC bottom paint is a multi-season ablative product developed...

Interlux Trilux 33 Antifouling Boat Bottom Paint

Interlux Trilux 33 Antifouling Bottom Paint Trilux 33 is formulated to provide the most effective protection for fiberglass, wood, and all underwater metal surfaces. This antifouling bottom paint is tin-free and is perfect for maintaining bright colors...

Interlux ACT Ablative Antifouling Bottom Paint

Interlux ACT Ablative Antifouling Bottom Paint Interlux ACT Antifouling Paint Ablative provides excellent season-to-season protection. Its formula includes Interlux’ Ablative Technology to remove fouling, eliminate coating build-up and with it the...

Pettit Hydrocoat Ablative Antifouling Paint

Pettit Hydrocoat Antifouling Bottom Paint Pettit Hydrocoat is an eco-friendly water-based marine bottom paint that meets all local and state regulations. It is formulated with no harsh smells or solvents. The Pettit Hydrocoat Antifouling Bottom Paint is...

Interlux Aqua One Ablative Antifouling Paint

Interlux Aqua One Ablative Antifouling Paint Interlux is a leading manufacturer of antifouling paint and has been protecting boats with their complete line of protective paints for over a century. Their name is synonymous with unmatched quality and...

Pettit ECO HRT Copper-Free Bottom Paint

Pettit ECO Hybrid Reactive Technology (HRT) Copper-Free Bottom Paint Pettit ECO HRT Copper-Free Antifouling Paint is engineered with the latest technology available to create a strong hybrid paint film able to handle the harshest marine environments...

Pettit Premium HRT Bottom Paint

Pettit Premium HRT Multi-Season Antifouling Boat Bottom Paint Pettit Paint's line of HRT bottom paints. Pettit HRT Premium provides excellent antifouling protection and is equally effective on both power and sailboats. This paint utilizes the latest...

Pettit Unepoxy HRT Bottom Paint

Pettit Unepoxy HRT Bottom Paint Pettit Unepoxy HRT is formulated to provide outstanding protection at a very affordable price. Unepoxy HRT has a smooth durable finish that is able to withstand beaching, trailering, and season long abuse. This...

Sea Hawk Cukote Bottom Paint

Sea Hawk Cukote Bottom Paint Sea Hawk's Cukote Bottom Paint is a self-polishing ablative paint that provides multi-season protection. Cukote Bottom Paint has a high load of cuprous oxide that makes this formula a top performer even in the most severe...

Interlux Micron CF Bottom Paint

Interlux Micron CF Bottom Paint Antifouling Copper-Free Paint with Econea Micron® CF features all the fantastic benefits of Micron technology-without copper. Micron CF is your multi season antifouling solution with its Biolux® Slime Blocking...

Interlux Pacifica Plus Antifouling Marine Paint

Interlux Pacifica Plus Antifouling Marine Paint with Biolux Interlux Pacifica antifouling paint is specially designed to battle slime and contains Econea to help ward off barnacles, algae, and other underwater organisms. It is formulated with a dual...

Pettit Hydrocoat Eco Ablative Antifouling Paint

Pettit Hydrocoat Eco Ablative Antifouling Paint Pettit’s hydrocoat formula has been leading the way in marine ablative technology for 20 years.  These water-based paints are industry leaders, and the Pettit Hydrocoat Eco is the newest...

Pettit Odyssey HD Ablative Antifouling Bottom Paint

Pettit Odyssey HD Ablative Antifouling Bottom Paint Pettit Odyssey HD Bottom Paint is a multi-season antifouling paint that combines controlled polishing ablative technology with a high copper content. Odyssey HD provides a paint film strong enough to...

Sea Hawk Biocop TF Bottom Paint

Sea Hawk Biocop TF Bottom Paint Sea Hawk's Biocop TF Bottom Paint is a multi-season, self-polishing antifouling paint that provides maximum fouling protection. Bicop TF was developed as an alternative to tin-based antifouling paints to stand up to the...

Pettit Inflatable Boat Bottom Paint

Pettit Inflatable Boat Bottom Paint Pettit's Inflatable Boat Bottom Paint is a water-based paint that provides multi-season protection against algae, barnacles, and all types of marine and fresh water fouling. Its water-based formula results in a...

Interlux Micron Extra SPC Antifouling Paint

Interlux Micron Extra SPC Antifouling Paint Interlux is known for its high-quality antifouling paints that have been manufactured using only superior ingredients and developed for long-lasting results in all types of waters. Interlux Micron Extra Self...

Interlux Micron Navigator w/Biolux Antifouling Bottom Paint

Interlux Micron Navigator w/Biolux Antifouling Water Based Bottom Paint Interlux Micron Navigator is a copper free antifouling paint with a water based formula. The Micron antifouling formula offers multi-season long lasting polishing protection. Dual...

Sea Hawk Islands 44 TF Bottom Paint

Sea Hawk Islands 44 TF Bottom Paint The Sea Hawk Islands 44 TF is an advanced tin-free, self-polishing antifouling bottom paint that keeps your hull bottom free of organic growth over multiple cruising seasons. Suitable for both sailing and motor...

Pettit Odyssey 60 Ablative Bottom Paint

Pettit Odyssey 60 Multi-Season Ablative Boat Bottom Paint Pettit Odyssey 60 is a high-copper, multi-season ablative bottom paint. This ablative paint delivers exceptional multi-season performance against fouling by offering the highest copper content...

Ablative Antifouling Bottom Paint

Ablative bottom paint (a.k.a anti-fouling paint) is a paint or coating designed to discourage weeds, barnacles, and other aquatic organisms from attaching themselves (and in the case of wooden boats, eating) to the underwater portion of your boat's hull. Bottom paints have traditionally accomplished this by including biocides, with the included copper being the most commonly used in today's formulas. In general, the more copper or other biocide a paint contains, the more effective it is. Wholesale Marine carries a great selection of ablative antifouling bottom paints from the trusted brands in marine paints including Pettit , Sea Hawk , Interlux , and Aquaguard . Not sure which is the right choice for your craft? Just confer with our boating experts by calling (877) 388-2628.

Ablative bottom paint gradually wears away a tiny bit at a time to reveal fresh biocide as your boat moves through the water, in a fashion very similar to how soap wears down with usage. One advantage to this is that as long as paint remains on your hull, you know it's working to prevent growth. Another benefit is that as it's constantly wearing away, there's no buildup of old paint, which can be difficult to remove before applying a fresh coat. Be aware, too, that ablative antifouling bottom paints can lose their effectiveness if your boat remains idle for extended periods of time, because it is water movement that provides that self-cleaning action. Additionally, be aware that ablative bottom paints aren't a good choice for fast-moving boats, which would accelerate the ablation process and cause rapid paint loss. In which case, be sure to speak with Wholesale Marine’s boating experts for advice on alternative choices.

You can depend on Wholesale Marine to always have whatever you need to maintain your boat in stock and at very competitive prices. When you need assistance in making your ablative antifouling bottom paint and boat maintenance supplies selections, just ask our knowledgeable service staff. At Wholesale Marine, you can depend on our products and will appreciate the convenience of our fast, flat-rate shipping, and easy returns. When you call, be sure to ask about our Captain’s Club Rewards program to receive extra discounts the next time you shop. Have questions or need to place an order? Call us at: (877) 388-2628. We’re available Monday through Friday, from 8:30 AM until 4:30 PM.

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Bottom Paint Options on the Chesapeake Bay?

• Add to quote
• Expensive - (Will last 2+ seasons)
• Midrange - (Should make it through 2 seasons)
• Budget - (Good protection, but only through 1 season)

Micron Extra or Micron 66 are ablative/co-polymer paints that are proven Chesapeake performers. 2-3 Coats. Should last at least 2 seasons. Around $200 / gal, which should be enough for 30-35' ft waterline length. In my opinion, anything less...is not cost effective. You could paint one coat a different color to show areas that need touching up at spring commissioning. Give an extra coat at high wear areas, leading edges, waterline, etc. Jason  

Ditto Jason... Any money saved will be spent when you haul after 1 season instead of 2. Also, whether the boat can stay in depends on the exact location; if it is too fresh it will freeze hard. If I hauled every year, I suppose I would still use 66, just one coat. Avoid build-up and you can avoid sanding most years.  

I agree, I used micron extra 2 coats with a third on the leading edge and I'm in the lower bay. Bottom stayed clean for for better than 3 seasons and probably could have lasted another.  

Bottom Paint I'm sure these guys know more than I do.... But, I think it depends on your boat and what your doing with it. If your not racing and just day sailing and / or over nighting some times, I see no need to spend big bucks on paint. Why spend $200.00 per gallon just to do it again in a year or two ?? Go cheap, Get a good coat on and then Touch it up for a few years till the other color shows through, THEN start again with a different color. If you have a high $$ boat and are after performance or looks then go with the Good stuff. Just a different point of view. Bee  

I too have been successful with Micron Extra  

Practical Sailor just published some test results.... An Micron 66 finished on top, along with some other good paints. That was in FL. Also, consider the cost of bad gas mileage with a foul bottom.  

I just found out that bottom currently has a coat of Pettit Trinidad on it, which is is a Hard Anti-fouling paint... I'm looking at going to Micron 66 or Micron Extra Ablative... The anti-fouling compatibility chart on the Interlux website states that the only thing I need to do is lightly sand before applying the Micron Ablative. But then in the fine print is seems to imply that I'll need to use Primocon YPA984 primer over the old paint. AntiFouling Compatibility Chart Does anyone have experience with switching from Hard to Ablative bottom paint? And did you need to prime over the old hard Hard anti-fouling first or did you just paint over with ablative?  

I would think the compatability chart you linked would have the answer there. As I understand putting an ablative over hard paint is not a big deal, but you can't go the other way. As far as performance in the Chesapeake is concerned, the previous owners of my last boat used Pettit Hydrocoat and I was very happy with how it worked and held up, so I continued using it and have two gallons at home for the new boat. Its a multi-season ablative that has worked well for me and it costs about 1/2 of the brands I consistently see recommended here. Unless you are a racer using hard paint and burnishing your bottom, I can't see spending twice as much for bottom paint. I'm going over old paint so, I'll sand to create some "tooth", then two coats of Black Hydrocoat (3 in the high wear areas)over the exisiting blue and I won't paint again until blue is showing. I expect the paint to last at least 2 seasons based on what I saw on my previous boat. Hydocoat is also water based, so I can get all "holier than thou" about green aspects and the easy clean up. lol  

I don't use my boat for racing or any competition - just relaxed cruising however I still spend the extra for the better paint and use Micron Extra. Last year I had my bottom cleaned towards the end of the season by a diver and the boat felt like a totally different animal. It accelerated much quicker and maintained a better speed at significantly lower RPMs than before. Therefore even though I don't race I just love the way the boat feels, responds and performs with a cleaner bottom and would rather spend the extra for a paint that keeps it that way longer. Just my .02 from a different perspective  

Who says the more expensive paint really does that? Having read the Practical Sailor reviews, the paint companies websites and seen for myself how Hydrocoat works, I can find no compelling reason to pay nearly $100/gal more for a similar performing bottom paint. The light slime I get doesn't noticiably affect performance and if I thought it did, I have access to a dry scrubber and could clean most of the hull excluding the keel in about 15 minutes. The folks in my marina using more expensive paints seem to have a similar experience, except the racers still pay a diver a few times a season. I didn't pay for a bottom cleaning or use the bottom scrubber last year and saw no noticeable decrease in performance other than from encrustation of the prop late in the season that I did hire a diver to address. This year, I'll probably be more proactive watching the prop and may have a bottom cleaning when/if the runnning gear needs attention. Like you, I don't race my boat, but I do crew for a friend that does and I apply that experience to sailing my boat and like having the boat perform to its potential. This is just one expense where I don't see the added benefit for my situation.  

In recent years, I've had more problems with slimy growth than with barnacles. I've used Micron Extra with Biolux. Initially I thought the Biolux was marketing hype, but it seems to work. My boat was painted with hard black paint and red Micron over top of that with extra coats on leading edges and the rudder. I touch up when the black shows through and re-coat if a lot of black is showing. As MrBee points out, if you're racing, it's a whole new ball game.  

Micron Extra works for me  

Colours make a difference for antifouling. The best protector is red (brown-red). The second one is blue. Try to use red colourwhichever brand you choose. Keep away from white.  

Color makes a difference? Fascinating! I'd like to read more about that. Would you point me to the relevant statistics or studies? Thanks! DaCAP  

I stumbled across something about this when I was googling around about bottom paint. Apparently the red and reddish brown colors use copper oxide as pigment to create the red color and the additional copper content is thought to provide additional biocide anti-fouling properties. YMMV...  

Copper does pigment anti fouling paint. That's why lighter-colored paint has less of it. I can tell you from 15 years of close, personal observation however that there is no noticable difference in anti fouling performance from one color to another, given a particular product.  

Stick with either Micron or Pettit and stay away from Super Hawk. Tried it at the recommendation of the yard doing the bottom paint. He sold all brands but edged me towards the SH. I'll never go back to it. Slime and growth built up in no time, and that's using the boat every weekend. IMHO you get what you pay for when it comes to bottom paint.  

Backcreek, As I have said before, I keep my boat on Back Creek. The growth is aggresive here. Get the good paint. It seems that the bridge is some kind of salinity demarkation. North, lower. South, higher. ________ Prilosec Settlement Info  

Bottom Paint - Chesapeake Bay On our 10 yr. old Bene 352 the P.O. put on Pettit Trinidad, hard antifouling paint in '07, just before we acquired the boat. It sat on the hard during most of '07 while it was for sale. In spring of '08, after a light sanding, we put 1 coat of Micron 66, an ablative, and did a full season of weekend daysails and overnights out of Rock Hall, MD. When haul-out time came, the bottom was nearly perfect, except for slight discoloration at the waterline. An additional coat of Micron 66 went on this spring of '09 after a light sanding. The boat has been in the water a month now and no sign of any fouling. Conclusion: Micron 66 works fine on top of Pettit Trinidad for the upper Bay.  

Light sanding OK so if I am going to put on Micron 66 over an old hard paint, what does light sanding mean? Can I use a power sander and what grit paper should I put on it? After sanding do I just wash, dry and then paint?  

With any paint, follow the manufacturer's directions. I'm up in Annapolis and I put on Micron 66. I sail mostly south so I did not worry about this paint not working in fresh water. I painted in August and I have my diver check things out in November. Nothing on the bottom. I can see in the water now and all I have is a slight fuzz on the side of the rudder that gets alot of sun. Other boats around here have gotten 2 seasons out of the Micron 66 and speak very highly of it. None of them haul out for the winter. I sanded with a 60 grit paper on a random orbital sander. I highly suggest using a shop vac with the sander (the sander will have holes on it's pad) so most of the dust is removed. Also, use the bag insert to make cleanup easier. Get a respirator, goggles, and tyvek suit to keep yourself clean and safe. This paint is used to kill growth... it's not very nice.  

I'm thinking about going with West Marine's PCA Gold ablative this year. From Maine Sail's comments it sounds like it's just a repackaged Petit product sold much cheaper. Also, if what he says about it starting to ablade at 2-3 knots vs 6-7 knots for Interlux products is true, that seems like a big plus. Beyond his comments I've read a lot of good reviews of PCA Gold on this and other sites but unfortunately only a handful were from others in the Chesapeake. Anyone else out there have experience with this product?  

We stripped the bottom last year and used Petitt Hydrocoat. It's a multi season ablative and was half the price of Micron. Defender had the best price at the time (Sorry, Sailnet). Prior to Gov Cup, I went over the side to clean the hull... but there was absolutely no growth on the hull. Nothing. And the boat had been in the water for 2 months in the summer Chesapeake. When we pulled the boat in November, my wife summed it up best. As the boat came out of the water, she came over to me and said "Your bottom looks great! I've never seen it so clean!" I wasn't sure how to take that. :laugher :laugher Used 2 coats with extra on the leading edge of the keel, rudder, and waterline. I LOVE Hydrocoat. Beware of WM CPP Ablative. It's ablative, but not multi-season.  

I'm an inland sailor and slime is a real problem here. The boat I bought 5 years ago had VC17 on it and it looked ok so I continued to use it (for the ease of repainting) but the performance was just ok. Two years ago a friend did his S2 with a product called Super Ship Bottom (or something like that) and it lasted 2 years, so I did a couple of test spots over my VC17 this spring to see if it would adhere to the VC17 and I was amazed at the difference. The VC17 was slimmed up solid this fall at haulout but the ablative was TOTALLY clear of any fouling. The whole bottom will get this treatment this spring. And I think this stuff is ~$130/gal.  

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How to Articles | Bottom Paint Store

Learn more about boat paint applications and marine supplies.

What is the difference in Hard Bottom Paint and Ablative Bottom Paint?

Hard Bottom Paint Vs. Ablative Bottom Paint

Bottom paint is generally used to keep the growth off of the bottom of your boat. There are generally two types of bottom paint both of which have several variations that create a multitude of products in the market place. The two different types or categories of bottom paint include a hard bottom paint , and an ablative bottom paint .

Related Articles and links:

Hard Bottom Paint

Ablative Bottom Paint

Applying Bottom Paint

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Recoating ablative bottom paint...do I have to?

• Thread starter F14CRAZY
• Start date Apr 4, 2012

• Apr 4, 2012

Boat in question is my Bayliner Capri... Before last season I added a few coats of Interlux Interprotect epoxy barrier coat along with 3 coats of West Marine CCP ablative bottom paint, in blue if it matters. Was slipped in the Grand River from June till October. I didn't do anything as far as maintenance last season to the bottom and it seemed to have kept most algae growth off. There was a little bit but it came off after power washing. It has been sitting on its trailer since. Sure looked better than my neighbor's 20' Regal without paint or a barrier coat (I did warn them about blisters). Do I have to sand it and give it a couple new coats? I don't think it went bare in any places and I didn't run the boat a whole lot so I don't think much paint has ablated. This paint is not a "multi-season" though. Will it not do its job if I don't coat it again? I haven't had experience with bottom paint before last season. Thanks  

Rear Admiral

Re: Recoating ablative bottom paint...do I have to? Ablative bottom paint is meant to wear away, constantly giving off the chemicals (copper/zinc) that inhibit growth. After a year or two, the coat wears prettyl thin. You would be better served doing a minimal prep and applying 2 more coats of the identical paint. If you want to change brands or colors, then you'll have to completely strip, prep, and repaint.  

• Apr 5, 2012

Re: Recoating ablative bottom paint...do I have to? Thanks for the reply  

Home Cookin'

Fleet admiral.

Re: Recoating ablative bottom paint...do I have to? I get two years, almost three out of the paint--of course, you may be in different conditions. I'd try it without repainting. That stuff is expensive.  

Re: Recoating ablative bottom paint...do I have to? I bought a gallon for the boat and still have over half the bucket left so cost aside from a new roller cover or two is close to zero, but if I truly don't have to I have little desire to roll it on lol  

Re: Recoating ablative bottom paint...do I have to? Just to **** off the neighbors a little more, do a single quick coat so it looks fresh going into the season.  

Re: Recoating ablative bottom paint...do I have to? My knowledge may be 'dated' to older paint technology, so I don't know if it is still valid for today's ablative bottom paints. That being said, .... Ablative bottom paints need to be applied a short period of time prior to launching so that they do not fully dry, otherwise they do not wear off. (It used to say right on the can 'apply x number of hours before launching' for just this reason.) If this is still the situation with ablatives then yes you will need to re-apply, - they are no longer effective after winter storage. Also, it sounds like you are in fresh water which also changes things. Maybe someone can let me know if this is still valid for today's paints. -- Thanks  

Home Cookin' said: I get two years, almost three out of the paint--of course, you may be in different conditions. I'd try it without repainting. That stuff is expensive. Click to expand...

Senior Chief Petty Officer

Re: Recoating ablative bottom paint...do I have to? I would wait a year also. I always got 2 or 3 seasons out of my bottom paint while boating on Lake St. Clair in Michigan and never had any problems.  

Ned L said: My knowledge may be 'dated' to older paint technology, so I don't know if it is still valid for today's ablative bottom paints. That being said, .... Ablative bottom paints need to be applied a short period of time prior to launching so that they do not fully dry, otherwise they do not wear off. (It used to say right on the can 'apply x number of hours before launching' for just this reason.) If this is still the situation with ablatives then yes you will need to re-apply, - they are no longer effective after winter storage. Also, it sounds like you are in fresh water which also changes things. Maybe someone can let me know if this is still valid for today's paints. -- Thanks Click to expand...

Supreme Mariner

Re: Recoating ablative bottom paint...do I have to? F14, If the growth was nil or slight, upon the last haul out, you can skip any repainting. However, I find the transom and sides of the boat get the most growth, and I end up scrubbing more of the paint off. So I usually end up painting them and the keel area in the bow, as a mimimum.  

Re: Recoating ablative bottom paint...do I have to? Thank you Home cookin! Yep, those were the cuprous oxide paints.  

tpenfield said: Just to **** off the neighbors a little more, do a single quick coat so it looks fresh going into the season. Click to expand...

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• Sailboat Guide

1978 Pacific Seacraft 25

• Description

Seller's Description

Sturdy well maintained freshwater trailer sailor ready to go. Selling due to purchase of a larger boat for extended cruising. If I had the time to keep and sail both I would, but I’d rather someone else continue to enjoy and take care of her.

Background: Purchased 3 years ago (saw very little use with previous owner since 2013). Do not have a complete history, but based on conversations with PO and documentation aboard there is evidence of 3 owners including me. Have been to the Florida Keys (Marathon) twice and a trip to the Puget Sound (Olympia to Port Townsend). At cruising weight (tools, provisions, etc), boat & trailer weighs 7000lbs. Highway towing with a stock 5.7L 2011 Toyota Tundra 4x4 maintaining posted speed limits is not an issue. Heavy, but does sail well in winds above 8kts. Have been out single handing sustained mid-high 20s with gusts into 30s and felt safe. Settles in at about 10 degrees heel angle. Received second place in the 2023 Lake Pueblo Sailing Club Commodores Cup w/ PHRF rating of 312. This model is also featured in Twenty Small Sailboats to Take You Anywhere by John Vigor if you’re interested in more model specific details

Overall: No soft spots. All portlights and hatches seal completely (no leaks). Some hairline gelcoat cracks typical of age but no excessive crazing. Fuel tank removed for inspection and in serviceable condition but never used. I use a small aux tank located in lazarette (estimate .15-.2 gallons per hour based on logs). Water tank removed for inspection and repair, replaced with 29 gal flexible (removable) water bladder with vented/pressurized electric faucet in galley.

Engine: Start and runs without issue. Yanmar YSB-8 with 400 hrs. Note: purchased with hour meter inop. PO replaced old engine with (290 hr freshwater engine). I have detailed hours mx logs, which is what I use to keep track of current hours.

Equipment: Updates/included items (have paperwork/receipts for all major purchases): All lines run to cockpit, including main halyard and 2 reefing lines (MastGates.com custom sail channel insert, Spinlock triple clutch, Barton single line reefing systems) Note: System is installed and functional, but some pieces of the Barton SLRS will need to be more permanently attached as I was leaving flexibility to fine tune the running rigging. Original jiffy reefing system functional as well, if you prefer reefing at the mast.

Pressurized electric galley water pump (manual pump inop) 35 lb. galvanized Delta fast-set anchor 14-35lb. Long Anchor Delta Roller (not installed) Fortress Fx-11 Anchor - 7lb 25 ft chain, 125ft rode Origo 4300E Alcohol-Electric 2 burner stove (1 electric burner inop, both alcohol burners work) 2023 Oil change oil strainer cleaning new impeller 2023 primary & secondary fuel filter change (new spares) 2023 Mast plate with boom vang & SLR connections 2023 Alternator & belt ( used spares) 2023 Rudder gudgeon hardware removed and rebedded 2022 AC to DC 12V 15A LifePO4 Plug-in Battery Charger Smart Charger and Maintainer 2022 GIANDEL Power Inverter 1500W Pure Sine Wave DC 12V to AC 110V 120V with Dual AC Outlets & LED Display Remote Controller 2.4A USB Port 2022 SOK 12V100Ah LiFePO4 Battery w/ Bluetooth & Built-in heater 2022 Renogy Rover Li 40 Amp MPPT Solar Charge Controller w/ Bluetooth 2022 350 watts solar (2x Renogy Flexible Solar Panels 175 Watt 12 Volt) 2022 4 to 1 Vang 2022 Main sail cover 2022 Precision Sails, Mariner Package 400 Series Advanced Dacron 6oz: Mainsail with 4 partial battens, 2 reefs, sail numbers 2022 Precision Sails Mariner Package, 400 Series Advanced Dacron 6oz: 125% Genoa w/ draft stripes, UV protector, furling reefing marker, foam luff inserts Note: Original mainsail, hank on jib, and 135 genoa available 2022 Harken Mark IV Ocean Furler 2022 Pettit Hydrocoat Ablative Antifouling Paint 2022 Air Head Composting Toilet w/ full-sized seat (original marine head avail) 2022 Oil impeller change 2022 Freshwater and saltwater anodes 2022 24MS-VL ValuCraft/Duralst Marine Starting Battery 2022 Rule LoPro 900GPH Automatic Bilge Pump 2022 TillerClutchX manual tiller quicklock system 2022 Raymarine Ev-100 Tiller Evolution Autopilot 2021 Raymarine i70s Instrument Display with Wind and Depth Transducer 2021 Barton Lazy Jacks

Also includes partially rebuilt Yanmar YSB-8 engine (unknown hrs) and too many parts/spares to list.

Tandem-axle EZ Loader Trailer: Title in hand, registered in CO. 3 inch x 30 ft launch strap (10k lbs working/30k break) 2024 Keel guides with carpet bunks installed 2024 Full hub service (replaced inner & outer bearings, races, etc.) greased using red n tacky 2023 New highway rated tires (including 2 full sized spares) 2022 Electric brake install with new hubs/bearings

Link to pictures and extra parts available upon request.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

From BlueWaterBoats.org :

The first of the boats to carry the legendary Pacific Seacraft name, the 25 was penned by Henry Mohrschladt and built from humble beginnings in his garage in 1976. This tiny double-ender was fashioned after the workboats of the 19th century which were able to carry heavy loads, sail quickly and safely in a broad range of weather. By modern standards the little 25-footer is considered quite slow, but to make up for this she is immensely strong and seaworthy, low maintenance, and perfectly capable of being trailered to a cruising ground of your choice.

It’s been said the Pacific Seacraft 25 looks much like a blend between fishing vessel and a ship’s lifeboat encapsulating a traditional old world feel. Beneath the waterline is a full keel with a forefoot cutaway which blesses her with fine tracking abilities combined with a hefty rudder hung from the double-ender’s stern post. The bottom of the keel has a long enough straight section to allow her to sit upright without nosing forwards should she be tied up while the tide is out.

The boats were available in cutter and sloop rig. The cutter rigged boats had a small bowsprit of less than two feet in length, the slot between the headsail and the stay sail which anchors at the stem head is quite small.

Under sail the helm is light and tracking is excellent. Light air performance is abysmal, more canvas area is desperately needed, but in winds above 8 knots she can move surprisingly well with hull speed attained in 12-14 knots of breeze. She’s initially tender before stiffening at about 10 degrees of heel with the first reef typically thrown in above 16 knots. In rough conditions she is known to heave-to particularly well with a reefed staysail and triple reefed main.

The first hull was built by Pacific Seacraft’s two founders Mike Howarth and Henry Mohrschladt in Henry’s garage in Orange County, California. The boat was promptly taken to a local boat show where it sold immediately and created a good deal of interest. Production eventually moved from the garage to the company’s first official premises in Santa Ana on South Susan Street when the residential neighbours didn’t take kindly to the smell and sounds of fiberglass boatbuilding.

Early Pacific Seacraft 25s were sloop rigged without bowsprits and their associated cutter rig. Many options were on offer and you’ll find numerous variations on the market today. Options included various hull colors, teak sea-hoods for the hatches, teak decks, cockpit grates, and cutter rigs in the later models. There was even an option for a private forward cabin separated with a full bulkhead and a finely crafted door. Apparently four boats were built with swing keels and additionally a few boats were owner-finished.

Production continued through until 1981 with the last recorded boat being hull number #257 for a total production count of 157. The Pacific Seacraft 25 was eventually phased out when the company introduced Bruce Bingham’s Flicka 20 to its lineup of yachts. The new 20 footer’s standing headroom and clever use of space in her open cabin interior proved to be important factors. The molds for the Pacific Seacraft 25 were eventually shipped to Japan, but their ultimate fate remains unknown.

Construction

The hulls were built of hand-laid fiberglass with lengthwise mock-planking molded in, while the deck and cabin were of fiberglass cored in balsa to keep the weight down. The cabin trunk design is quite boxy and despite its apparent height the internal headroom only manages five feet two inches.

There is a small gunwale that’s two inches at the bow which reduces to nothing at the cockpit, topped with a wide caprail of teak. The sidedecks are comfortably wide that gets wider further forward of the boat.

The cockpit has a good size and shape for a seagoing boat possessing a secure feel. It has comfortably rounded corners for lounging, a roomy stern lazarette, and a spacious port-side locker. The cockpit has two drains on the forward edge which are adequate, though for serious offshore work 4 drains would be better.

Below the cockpit floor is a large hatch that can be unsealed and detached by undoing 25 screws. It’s a large area to keep well sealed and watertight but it does allow for unprecedented access to the engine and stuffing box. The standard engine is a single cylinder 8-horsepower Yanmar diesel which fits snugly under the cockpit. Access to the engine from behind the companionway steps is minimal – enough for a peek, but that is all.

A deep and narrow fuel tank is located in bilge just forward of the engine area – it’s a great spot for space efficiency and for keeping a low center of gravity. Unfortunately, as with early Pacific Seacraft practice, they were made of aluminum, and being located in the bilge, despite having runners under it, the tank would typically develop saltwater corrosion and leaks six to eight years into its life. The job of replacing these tanks has become infamous in the industry.

The mast is stepped onto a tabernacle that allows it to be dropped or raised easily, this area is supported by a wooden compression post that transfers the load of the rig onto the keel.

Interior Layout

Belowdecks is accommodations for up to five, it’s unlikely you’ll go cruising with more than two people on a boat this size, but the extra berths may be handy for short coastal trips. The forepeak has a small double berth that’s sized better for children, also in the forepeak is a head and hanging locker opposite each other on either side of the hull. A curtain separates this area from the saloon.

The galley is generously sized and well laid out with fresh and seawater hand pumps, a sink, and originally sold with a pressure kerosene or alcohol two burner stove. Opposite is a dinette and settees that face forward and aft that can seat up to three. The dinette can be lowered to make room for a double berth and further aft is a seagoing quarter-berth.

Six bronze opening portlights and an overhead hatch allows for plenty of light and ventilation to enter the cabin. The joinerwork is superb and up to the standard set by Pacific Seacraft on all of their vessels.

Links, References and Further Reading

» Pacific Seacraft owner review by Ron Chappel, Good Old Boat Magazine, March/April 2004 » Twenty Small Sailboats to Take you Anywhere by John Vigor, p105 » Pacific Seacraft 25 Owners Forum , messages, information and photos.

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Ablative paint mid-season care cleaning growth ?

• Thread starter Michael
• Start date Aug 6, 2003
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

This spring our boat received a new bottom job with Interlux ablative paint (the stuff with the biocide for slime). Our area is prone to quick growth (especially slime), and I was wondering whether diving and scrubbing the growth (especially on the rudder and around the skirt) would wear away the paint. I want the paint to last as long as possible, but I want to keep the bottom clean as well (for performance reasons). If it is alright to dive in and clean it, should I use a simple brush and a sponge ?Also, when we do our annual haulout and inspection next spring, is it okay to have the yard pressure wash the bottom even with the ablative paint ? Will this decrease the life expectancy ? THANKS !  

Brian Conneely

same issue... My waters are also prone to fast slime growth...and as if that wasn't enough I only sail on weekends which equates to slime buildup. Once this occurs the ablative paint is no longer exposed and won't wash away to continually expose a new layer. This usually isnt an issue with regular usage but as in my case the net result is more slime. I think the only way to combat this is to do as you said and lightly scrub the slime away to expose new paint (using a soft brush). Also, after haul out a good rinse with a garden hose should be enough to the take the slime off as long as it is done before the the algae dries...if you or the yard wait a few days you're in trouble.brian conneelyh23 kickin' back  

Choices If you periodically scrub the bottom then you will definitly remove the buildup and you will also definitly wear away - more - the ablative paint. I dont scrub & at the seasons end all I see is a light mud like coating that easily comes off when touched, i.e., it doesn't build up. This is find for me and I can skip a year between paint jobs. There are tradeoffs and the choice is yours. As far as power washing at seasons end, I have not noticed any significant reduction and this power washing definitly cuts down your labor.R. YoungHunter 37 - Destiny  

Same here I'm on the Chesapeake and have to do the same... just light scrub during the season and when haul out time comes I have it pressure washed. Usually by then it is in need of a repaint. My first coat i put on red and after that I put on Blue, once I start showing red I know it is ready to be hauled again. Very little prep required using the ablative as long as you don't wait for all the paint to wear off.  

I was expecting a little more than 1 season We did the same process when painting ours, black on bottom with two coats of blue so when black shows we know it is time to repaint. We were hoping to get a little more than 1 season with our new paint job though, 2 or an optomistic 3 seasons. This is our first experience with ablative paint, is our expectation realistic ?  

Cleaning I've been racing with Micron CSC for 5 years now. I only use white because it shows the slime more easily and it takes longer to build up. We spray 2 gallons on in the spring with wet sanding after it dries. For the rest of the season I dive the bottom every 2 weeks with just a mild darkening of the white. I only use a soft sponge to wipe and hardly any pressure. The entire process takes 45 min. and leaves a perfectly clean bottom. At haulout there is plenty of paint left and power washing does nothing to the paint.  

Alan, What size boat takes 45 minutes to scrub? Thanks,jv  

Alan; RE: How long in years ? So you must apply 2 or 3 coats in the spring right? When you say "plenty" of paint left, does that mean you hold off painting again till next spring (get 2 years out of it)? Does the type of waters a boat is kept in determine the life expectancy as well? Thanks !  

Ablative paint mid-season care I use micron CSC. My maintenance plan is scrub with a long deck brush at least every two weeks and dive to clean the hard to reach places every month. Since I have owned my boat for four years I have tried to stretch my bottom painting to every other year. The only problem is the second year growth is more pronounced and I have to dive to clean the boat more frequently. The water is cold in March and November.  

Gerry Journeau

Ablative paint To get true multi-season use you have to apply more paint than most people usually do.Most people who use a tracer coat of a different color cheap out and use one coat, then two coats of another color. When the tracer coat shows thru they re-paint. The complaint is that they only got one season out of it. Well, two coats is usally the manufacturers recommendation, but that's really just a minimum application to assure that it will do it's job for the season. Also, because it's usually fairly expensive, I've seen many folks roll it out to thin to save having to buy that extra gallon. A better way to achieve true multi season life is to put on two coats of the tracer color not rolled out to thin, then three or four coats of finish color at suitable thickness, not overly rolled out. This may seem expensive at first but think about it. Four coats adequately applied should yield two seasons before you really start to see the tracer coat and at this point the tracer coat if applied adequately should take you thru the third season. After all, isn't this why you bought this product so you wouldn't have to paint your bottom every year? I'm always amazed when my customers complain about paying for the extra paint, but theyr'e even more amazed when they thank me the next season that they don't have to do the bottom again.  

Sorry for the late responce My boat is 35' and its not really fair to say 'scrub' the bottom. It really does take a very light single wipe with a sponge and its clean. As a result, not a lot of paint is removed. Yes cleaning time is about 45 minutes. Again the reason is that I'm not scrubbing. Wipping with a sponge as you swim takes very little time. First I swim the waterline wipping down about 3'. Next I swim upside down from stern to bow each side of the center line. This requires 3 stops for air on each side. Last I do the keel and rudder. Two air stops for each side of the keel and one for the rudder, done. Yes I do spray new paint every year and then wet sand to 400. A fast bottom thats easy to maitain.  

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