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Sailboat Tiller Extensions

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The $tingy Sailor

Diy trailerable sailboat restoration and improvement without throwing your budget overboard.

Make a Tiller Extension For Better Cockpit Mobility

If you’re not afraid to sail single-handed in a stiff breeze and get the toe rail wet, then you want to be able to move around in the cockpit and still have control of your tiller. You want to be able to lean back into the lifelines, sit as far forward as possible (to lighten the stern), or even sit up on the coamings. But you can’t do that without a tiller extension.

Before I continue, a bit of legal housekeeping. This post contains affiliate links. That means I receive a small commission if you make a purchase using those links. Those commissions help to pay the costs associated with running this site so that it stays free for everyone to enjoy. For a complete explanation of why I’m telling you this and how you can support this blog without paying more, please read my full disclosure .

When the going gets tough, the tough get a stick

A tiller extension gives you extra reach to the tiller so that you can pick a better seating position for the current sailing conditions. Racers use them almost universally. If you have hopes of racing someday too, it’s never too soon to master using a tiller extension.

Tiller extensions are surprisingly expensive for what they are, a modified hiking pole or ski pole. You can spend as much for one tiller extension as for a pair of ski poles but they aren’t twice as complicated, twice as strong, or twice as expensive to manufacture. In fact, you can make one out of an unused hiking stick, trekking pole, or ski pole for about a third of the cost of a commercial tiller extension and it will work just as well.

Materials list

Here’s a list of the materials you’ll need:

• (1) Ski pole, trekking pole, or equivalent at least 3′ long
• (1) Replacement tiller extension universal joint. There are several brands available on the web or from your favorite marine outfitter. I like the  Ronstan Battlestick universal joint kit . It includes everything you need for the end of the tiller extension and for the mounting bracket on your tiller except screws.
• (1) Bicycle handlebar foam grips or grip tape. Any kind of waterproof grip will work, even coachwhipping .
• (1) Rubber cement to glue on the foam grips ( Shoe Goo also works and it fixes shoes too)

To make your DIY tiller extension:

1. Measure the outside diameter of the universal joint tenon with a set of calipers where it inserts into the tiller extension tube. You want to cut off the tip of the ski pole right where the inside diameter of the pole is this size or slightly smaller for a tight fit.

2. Mark the ski pole at the point where its inside diameter is approximately the same as the measurement from step 1. The wall thickness of some ski poles tapers from thicker near the tip to thinner at the handle so find the point where the pole outside diameter is the same as the universal joint and move toward the tip a couple of inches so that you can start out too small and work your way up to the correct size after you find the inside diameter.

3. With a hacksaw, cut the tip off the ski pole at the mark from step 2, remove any burrs, and measure the inside diameter of the ski pole at this point with a set of calipers. It should be a little less than the diameter you’re shooting for.

4. Cut off short increments until you reach the desired inside diameter.

5. Use a fine file or sandpaper to smooth the cut and to remove any burrs and sharp edges.

6. Attach the universal joint to the tip of the pole. Here’s a good video on how to install a Ronstan universal joint .

7. Decide how long you want your tiller extension to be. About 3′ long is a good start. Take measurements from each helm position where you expect to use the tiller extension. You want the extension as long as possible without being too long to fold out of the way when you don’t need it. Cut the end of the ski pole at that length. You can always shorten it later if you want but you can’t easily make it longer.

Your tiller extension can actually replace a tiller lock if you make it long enough to secure temporarily to the cockpit coaming at 90° to the tiller like shown in the picture below. That way, the tiller extension holds the tiller centered in the cockpit just like a tiller lock.

In the picture above, the handle of the tiller extension is held by the hook-and-loop tape of one of the same  bicycle flashlight mounts  that I describe in  Add a Solar-Powered Flood Light in Your Cockpit . When you want to take back control of the tiller yourself, just pull apart the hook-and-loop tape.

8. Apply the foam grip (with rubber cement or Shoe Goo) or grip tape and an end cap to the handle end of the tiller extension.

9. Mount the universal joint bracket to the top of your tiller handle.

I slightly modified the adapter that I made for my tiller lock  so that it also accepts the universal joint bracket. This way, I can swap between the tiller lock and the tiller extension with just two screws if I want to. If you don’t have such an adapter, attach the universal joint bracket directly to the tiller handle.

The universal joint attaches to the bracket by sliding the rectangular “key” sideways into the slot in the bracket. The attachment cap snaps over the bracket to keep the tiller extension from detaching during use. You can remove the tiller extension by unsnapping the cap and sliding the universal joint in the opposite direction.

I like using my tiller extension when I have crew onboard to set and trim the headsail and all I need to do is mind the tiller and trim the mainsail. But when I’m single-handing, I also use my tiller autopilot so that I can have both hands temporarily free to do everything else too.

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5 thoughts on “ make a tiller extension for better cockpit mobility ”.

Great idea and resource; it is good to give something a new life as opposed to tossing it! What is your take on having and adjustable length extention, using something like an old tripod leg or similar?

It’s a good idea if the locking mechanism is strong. Some of the commercial extensions have twist locking like adjustable trekking poles.

very good read, I did myn for £2, I got an old golf club, cut the head off, attached a bracket and bolted to my tiller, three years on still strong as can be, due a new rubber handle this season I think

At the other end of the tiller I added an open ended plastic clip that you use to secure 15mm plumbing pipe so that I can store the tiller extension flat on top of the original tiller when not required. When needed I just unclip and spin it around

You can save a few more bucks using a graphite golf club shaft whose head has broken off. I’ve been given a bunch of these free from a golf shop, and if you can get one long enough to do the job, it will already have a good grip on it. I’ve used several of these for boat projects.

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Optiparts Tiller Extensions Handles

Optimist Extension Foam Handle (Multicolored)

Optex652963.

Since setting up shop in 1990, Optiparts has continuously developed their range of products for the Optimist dinghy. For some time now Optiparts has been a top supplier of Opti spars, parts, and accessories. Optiparts also produces some parts and accessories for Lasers, 420s, and other dinghies. At MAURIPRO Sailing Store we carry a full range of Optiparts gear and accesories, everything you need to keep your Opti in top racing condition.

Spars Optiparts makes a full range of spars to suit all sizes and sailing styles. School spars are perfect for sailing camps and training spars. The silver Regatta spars are ideal for kids just getting into racing, while the Optiparts Blackgold Racing Spars are the ultimate performance option. With boom options for kids of all sizes, these stiff spars will help any Opti kid to get that perfect sail shape for any wind conditions.

The Optiparts racing foils are made according to the latest IODA class rules and have been used on many Optimist national, continental, and world championships over the past 10 years. Racing foils are sleek, stiff, and smooth, giving you the edge you need to sail fast. The more traditional wooden daggerboard and rudder from Optiparts are perfect for schools, clubs, and recreational sailing. Optiparts also has several options for tiller extensions and foil carrying bags.

We carry all of the blocks, hardware, and running rigging you need to set up your Opti for racing or recreational sailing. In addition to custom made blocks for the sprit halyard and mainsheet, Optiparts also supplies Harken Carbo blocks that have been optimised for the Optimist. They also supply every fairlead, cleat, shackle, and spar fitting that you would need to repair or rebuild any Opti. Specifically designed sprit halyards and mainsheets are lighweight and low stretch, so you can get the best trim and sail shape every time. Super Low-stretch Vectran sail ties keep the Opti sail evenly tentioned from regatta to regatta, and with an Optiparts Vectran minireel, you will always have a sail tie replacement on hand.

420 and Laser Parts.

Optiparts supplies a range of 420 and Laser parts and accessories for sailing and racing. For the 420, Optiparts makes spinnaker poles (both tapered and straight) and trapeze parts, in addition to wood-epoxy racing foils. Training sails for the 420 can be used for practice and recreational sailing. For the recreational Laser sailor, Optiparts has a full range of parts, hardware, spars, blades, and practice sails. These non-class-legal parts are perfect for training camps, first time sailors, and anyone looking to just go out and have fun on the water.

Accessories.

Optiparts offers a full range of accessories for use on and off the water. Bailers, airbags, and hiking straps are essential for any Opti sailor. With accurate wind indicators, you will never have to second guess where the wind is coming from or where to trim your sail. Dollies, covers, sailbags, and daggerboard and rudder bags will keep your Opti, Laser, or 420 in pristine condition when travelling. Stuck in the off-season? Use hiking benches and training DVDs from Optiparts to keep your body and mind in top racing condition between regattas.

MAURIPRO Sailing, your direct access to Optiparts Tiller Extensions Handles and all your other sailing and boating needs.

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• Spinlock Tiller Extensions
• Spinlock Asymmetric Tiller Extensions

Spinlock A-symmetric Handle Tiller Extension with Diablo universal joint 600mm-900mm

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• Description
• Product Description
• Spinlock Tiller Extension Video

• More feedback - for accurate and precise control
• More mobility - maintains the best helming position for optimum trim and visibility
• Less fatigue - correct helming position reduces back pain and improves concentration
• Asymmetric grip fits the hand and supports the wrist on or off the wind
• Two handed helming mode lets the arms relax into a more comfortable, elbows-down position
• Push-button adjustment with Torlon™ ball locking mechanism
• Strongly engineered stainless steel swivel joint for precise control
• Removable fast pin for easy stowage
• Integral shock absorber
• For more grip use EA/900SG or add E-GRIP to upgrade

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Designing & testing tiller extensions.

Sometimes making your own extension is the best solution to steering challenges on tiller-steered boats.

The steering arm can be solid wood, or tubing—usually aluminum or carbon fiber. The hinges are available from many sources. Your main decision is whether you want the extension to be easily removable.

If you just want an over-the-counter version, then refer to the Value Guide on page 18 for our ratings. If you are not sure what you want, the normal response is, “I’ll get an adjustable extension.”

However, most of the extensions you see on race boats or larger boats are fixed length. It is no mystery why. They are lighter than adjustable extensions, smooth to handle, harder to break, and won’t slip under high load.

You can choke up when you need a shorter length. Even if you decide that an adjustable extension might be the best answer to satisfy the whole crew—you still need to determine the right length. And that is when a mock up tiller handle comes in handy.

MAKING A MOCKUP TILLER EXTENDER

This mock-up is not intended for extended sailing use. It is only for a light wind trial, to help determine what length and style will work best, and perhaps to decide if adjustable or fixed length will suit you best.

• Start with a 15-inch length of 1/2-inch webbing and form a loop that fits snugly over your tiller. To form the loop a simple overhand, or figure-eight knot works well. You want everything snug, but you also want to allow enough space between the pipe and the tiller to create a free-moving swivel (see photo 3).
• Slot the ½-inch PVC pipe with a hand saw about ¾ inch deep on both sides.
• Slide the webbing tails through the slots (see photos 1 and 2), lay them down the sides of the pipe, and use a hose clamp to squeeze the slots closed on the webbing. A second clamp backs it up. Cover the hose clamps with athletic tape to prevent scratching.
• Slide the webbing loop onto the tiller and tape it in place with 1½-inch athletic tape (see photo 3). The webbing will stretch for a snug fit.
• Cut the extension to the proposed length, leaving it a little long to start.
• If you cut off too much, it can be added back using either glued couplings (fixed) or threaded adapters (to simulate an adjustable extension).

A mock-up is just a fitting aid, not a DIY option. It will be floppy and heavy, to the point of convincing you to do without an extension, but stick with it. Try a number of seating positions, postures, and grip styles (dagger vs. golf). The coaming offers good visibility ahead, but will need padding if you want to sit there for long. Is your back in a weird twist? How’s the wrist holding up? Try multiple position grips and seating positions, since the best choice will change with the weather. Be fussy and get it right.

Try a few tacks and jibes to learn how it swings when you pass the extension. You may find that when it blows you like to sit down in the cockpit, fist on the tiller. Our F-24 trimaran requires two extensions to cover the enormous range of requirements— a 4–foot extension for cockpit and coaming use, and a 10-foot length when sitting on the ama (see photos above). Fortunately, our stern rail rest supports them both “Tacking and Self-steering with a Tiller Extension”).

Is the tiller forward or aft of the mainsheet? If aft, very long extensions can be passed behind the mainsheet. If forward of the mainsheet the length is constrained by what you can pass between the end of the tiller and the mast or cabin, and how many crewmate heads you are willing to smack. That’s an exaggeration, of course, but it is a factor. 

Duckworks , www.duckworks.com ■ Racelite Tiller Extension (part# RL494) www.duckworksbbs.com/product-p/rl-494.htm , ■ Ronstan Universal Tiller Extension Joint (part# RF3133) www.duckworksbbs.com/product-p/rf3133.htm

Murrays sports , www.murrays.com ■ Hobie Tiller Yoke (SKU# 01-0062) www.murrays.com/product/01-0062

Ronstan , www.ronstan.com ■ Ronstan Tiller extension hardware (multiple parts) www.ronstan.com/marine/range.asp?RnID=075

Forespar , www.forespar.com ■ Spinlock TFP Quick Release (part# 104004) www.forespar.com/products/tiller-extension-twist-lock.shtml .

Spinlock , www.spinlock.co.uk , ■ Spinlock Spinflex Joint (SPEJB-KIT) www.adventurehardware.com.au/tiller-extensions/tiller- extension-spares/spinlock-spinflex-joint-for-ejb-600-and-900- tiller-extensions/

Carbon Fiber Tube Shop , (tubes of various sizes), www.carbonfibertubeshop.com

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Tiller Extensions & Accessories

Browse our selection of lightweight, high-precision tiller extensions from top brands like Spinlock , Seasure , and Harken . Find the tiller extensions to helm from the optimal position on your boat. We also stock tiller extension accessories, such as tiller joints and connectors. Check out our full range of deck hardware supplies for all your boat equipment needs.

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C420 Tiller with Extension

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Description

C420 sailboat aluminum tiller complete with downhaul cleat and 36" extension. Also fits Laser Performance C420 sailboat rudder heads.

• Aluminum tiller with cleat for downhaul
• 36" aluminum extension with foam grip and standard rubber universal joint
• Standard on all new Zim C420 sailboats
• Update for Laser Performance Part # 85206

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sailing dinghy telescopic tiller extension RF3124

... grip Quick fitting universal joint for accurate helm response Firm grip, precision control – Ronstan Battlestick™ tiller extensions provide the highest level of control, for quick, decisive helm response ...

sailboat telescopic tiller extension EA & EJ

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Tiller Extension

• Thread starter Codybear
• Start date Oct 2, 2018
• Catalina Owner Forums
• Catalina 275

Recently broke the rubber universal of the Spinlock EJB tiller for the second time and have concluded the EJB is just too light weight for the weather-helm of a single rudder 27' boat. Looking at replacing with the Spinlock EJ (telescopic stick tiller) or EA (telescopic asymm handle) and just seeing what other people are using. Boxing Roo, I see that you had the EA added in addition to the EJB mount, but because of the forward location in front of the bend, it doesn't look like you can drop it into a clip when not in use. As the EJ and EA clips are bigger, I'm looking at completely removing the old tiller hardware and replacing with the new hardware. I'm thinking the asymm handle could be nice on the high weather-helm days, but just seeing if anyone had an opinion with either of the EJ and EA tillers.  

Curious to learn why this keeps breaking, I'm assuming the rubber connection is the failure point. I'm looking at options for my 25' O'day and think I could use the 900mm one.  

The EJB tiller is typical of what you would find on a dingy. The rubber universal has a diameter of about 3/8" (10mm). I don't think they ever intended it for a 27' sailboat. The EJ and EA have either a steel pin or a heavy-duty rubber universal. I'm looking at the steel pin version so that it can be easily clipped in place when not in use and most importantly, will also lay against the leeward cockpit so I can run forward and grab a beer. What I'm really trying to decide on is, do I want the asymm handle for the high weather-helm days? Another option, because of the removable steel pin, is to buy both and let conditions dictate if I want a stick or handle that day.  

Simon Sexton

@Codybear , The fleet of Sonars I used to race with used extensions that were connected to the coupling by a rotating ball instead of a rubber flex-coupling. They weren't quite as smooth, but were tougher and almost impossible to pull out of the socket.​  

I replaced the extension on Azure with an EA. My girlfriend finds it much easier to control with helm. We remove it to cover the tiller. I highly recommend it.  

Did you install the 900mm or 1200mm (max) EA? I keep forgetting to measure the existing, but I believe the stock EJB is 900mm. I'm leaning towards the 1200mm (750mm min) which will give me an extra foot forward when solo.  

I installed the 900mm and we don't use it fully extended.  

Would you say that you at least extend it to 750, which is 6" short of full length?  

I am going out Friday and will take a couple of pictures  

For C275 single handing I find the biggest benefit of the EA handle is it can be fully extended (quick and easy to adjust with one hand) allowing you to go forward and make cabin top winch adjustments leaning weight away from and thus tensioning the extension to keep rudder centered boat tracking for the precious bit of time it takes to make an adjustment with the other hand. The 900mm extension requires a bit of a stretch to crank the winch from my 5'10'' wingspan, so leaning forward to get there is a bit of serendipity. With this technique you quickly start getting good at easing lines off Harken self tailors with one hand. I also find the EA useful is on a shifty beam reach, where I'm inclined to swivel the mainsheet cam cleats around and sit forward of the traveler to view the jib and (again) stand up to lean forward and trim it headers and knocks. Sitting halfway up the cockpit the extension becomes shallow angle relative to the tiller/rudder line, so the EA handle gives you something ergonomic to push & pull against to make up for the lack of leverage. From the helm position at the back of the cockpit I actually find the EA handle slightly cumbersome. I like a little bit of weather helm for lift - no more than say 4 degrees - but nothing more than that if I can help it. A lot of sailors go to the likes of a feathered/folding prop to reduce drag... but then are happy to drag a stalled spade rudder through the water (?) I have an extra purchase in my backstay tackle and spend a lot of time adjusting camber/draft/sheeting traveler down in a blow to take as much weather helm out of that sail plan as I can without having to dump the sheet/lose drive if I can help it. I sail with as little weather helm as I can manage. In summary: I would definitely recommend the Spinlock telescopic EA. On a C275 I would suggest looking at the 1200mm for anyone under 5'10" (so you can get to the winches) but the 900mm for anyone that height or taller because (even shortened down to min. length) I imagine the 1200mm might be a bit long to comfortably use with anything like a straight arm from a C275 within cockpit helm position. So the 900mm extension if you can. I have the pin mount and would recommend it (quick/easy - just don't drop the pin!) my 900 AE doesn't have a tiller clip, it just hangs back when not in use but it never really feels as though its in the way. Obviously it gets taken it off to put the tiller cover on before going home. My Auto pilot: As for grabbing a beer out of the esky... I keep a pre-tied furling ribbon from both stern bollards. When I need another coldie I put the loose loop ends over the end of the tiller (using the Spinlock mount as a stopper) to keep it centered and head below. Either that or if I'm feeling really lazy and have a bit of space I'll leave the helm, head below and leave the boat to 'S' back and forth for a few tacks - until I'm back on deck with the fresh can sleeved in the drink holder. Gotta love that self tacker ;-)  

Just was out this evening with some good gusts and think the 1200mm handle (750 shortened) may be too long when overpowered. On a stick, you can choke up, but with a handle, it may be awkward. Except for the extremely few times I need to reach the cabin and still maintain control, the 1200 min length may be a detriment.  

Oops, sorry, meant the "1200 max length". I'm starting to think that when it comes to the sailing, the 900mm is the correct length except for the extremely few times I need to reach the lines on the cabin where I wish I had the 1200mm. It is a trade off, but I think I will be happier with the 900mm in the long run.  

I still have the C275 stock fitting EJB and fixed length extension, so gave both a fair run initially. Actually found the stick more comfortable when driving from helm position back of cockpit on basis it can be held equally comfortable anywhere along it, with any little bit of excess length tucked under forearm not unlike a skiff. I can understand the EA handle ring for bigger boats, but for an ample chord length relatively directionally stable small fin keel boat like the C275 (where you are hardly threading a needle to keep it in the groove) IMHO the EA handle ring is a bit OTT. That is unless you are consistently pulling hard against weather helm in which case I'd be making rig and trim adjustments elsewhere. But I still now prefer and use the EA extension as the 'go to' for aforementioned reasons Re flexibility moving around the boat on my own. Codybear, if you seldom single hand... have you considered a pin mounted telescopic stick? It might give you the best of both worlds.  

I find you get a quite a bit of weather-helm when flying the asymm in good wind and the apparent wind goes forward of beam. I also get it when the boat is just plain overpowered, which is very common on gusty offshore days. When the wind goes from 15 to 30+, like in yesterday's sail, the boat is going to want to round up, like when I put the leeward rail under water with 5 adults on the windward rail and a reefed main. I was looking at the existing EJB stick and most of the wear marks in the foam appear to be about 8-9" (on center) from the end. So on a normal day I use 900mm and overpowered I probably use the equivalent of a 750-800mm. I'm clearly decided on the 900 EA. I'm flipping on the additional 900 or 1200 EJ (stick). It was 1200 yesterday, 900 yesterday evening and now I'm back to 1200. If I order overseas, I can pick up the 1200 EJ for about $132 extra, so I might as well get both. This will also give me a spare pin, shock absorber, and clip. As I will be ordering overseas, there will be no returns for practical reasons and getting it right the first time is important. So that said, I'm going to go with the 900 EA and 1200 EJ. Trying to get it before the last sail of the season which is 32 nm. and if I end up solo, the EA handle would be less tiring on the wrist.  

I'm thinking about putting 2nd reefing points in between the 1st and 2nd battens, with a view to transferring the lines up before hoisting on days I know I'm going to need it. Off the coast in a lumpy sea state I've found the boat behaves quite well. With almost zero rocker at the bow coupled with full and flat sections aft pitching is kept considerably down, also the chord length of that keel is nicely that little bit tender and forgiving. But the lack of a second reefing option does leave the running rigging a bit limiting for that type of sailing (which I love). More often than not my crew consists of a 7 year old kid, so I've never had the kite up in more than about 12 knots of breeze. With a slightly high centre of gravity (at least relative to a lot of modern deeper draft bulb keel sprit boats) I can imagine it quickly becoming a bit of handful in a blow. Suffice to say he's also not much in the way of rail meet. ... but I digress.  

I'd be interested to compare to what extent the extra ballast in the winged keel compensates for the reduced leverage in terms of righting moment. My understanding is that as a boat heels on a broad reach forward driving forces above the water (sails) move out to leeward, dragging forces below the water (appendages where not generating lift) move out to windward - the net result being a tortion like rotational force around a vertical axis causing the boat to round up i.e. weather helm. I can imagine a scenario where some lesser stiffness against heeling combined with added surface area and form drag associated with the winged keel might compound that a little bit. I get why Catalina generally focus on shoal draft designs because it widens their market into shallow cruising grounds (and increasing market share is clearly what they do best) however where I am in and around Sydney the anchorages/waterways are relatively deep water. So even having the deeper 5' fin keel version, I'd be happy to have a bit of keel area taken off the length and added to the bottom to get something closer to 6' draft. Its one of the very few things about the set-up that I would change, if I had my way. But not much else.  

The lake is plenty deep, the harbor I reside, not so much. It is because of the skinny water in the harbor that I opted for the wing. It wasn't necessarily the easiest choice, but it was the safest.  

Bear in mind with those wings you've got some end plating to mitigate tip votice losses + you get a fraction of that draft back when your boat heels. So on certain points there are gains. It would be interesting to line up a fin and winged keel C275 to compare characteristics in different conditions and points of sail. Other than pointing and footing on the wind... with the boats displacement I suspect other performance differences might be perceived as negligible i.e. more likely to come down to who has the least stretched sails (and beer in the esky).  

I'm relatively surprised with the C275 wing's performance close hauled. Next time I'm tacking up wind, I have to record the compass heading on my handheld to the GPS and see if I can come up with an estimate of the drift. I'm somewhere between 5 and 15 degrees based on visual observation. My Capri 22 wing was God awful and somewhere between 15 and 30 degrees.  

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Newport Tiller Extension Handle

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The Newport Tiller Extension Handle is specifically designed to allow boaters to customize the length of their outboard motor's tiller handle for improved control and comfort.

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1) We guarantee that each new Newport Branded Accessory (hereinafter to be referred to as the “product”) is free from defects in material and workmanship.

2) If your product arrives in a badly damaged box, please notify Newport Vessels immediately. If the box has been opened during shipment, simply refuse delivery of the product by the delivery driver and it will be returned back to our warehouse so we can ship you a replacement.

3) This warranty applies only to defects in material and workmanship for a period of two years from the date of purchase, it does not apply to normal wear and tear, or to damage caused by: -Neglect, abuse, accidents, theft, abnormal or improper use, or modification. -Use of an accessory or part not manufactured or sold by Newport Vessels. -Alteration or removal of parts. -Commercial use.

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Carbon Fiber Shaft

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The Newport Tiller Extension Handle is compatible with most outboard motors, including the Newport NT300 and Newport's entire line of trolling motors. The Tiller Extension handle can be easily attached to the existing tiller handle, providing boaters with an extended reach that allows for more comfortable and efficient operation. The Newport Tiller Extension handle is especially useful for boaters who want to improve their control while seated or standing, and it can help reduce fatigue and strain on the hands and arms.

Extend Your Control

The Tiller Extension Handle is available in three lengths 18", 24", and 32". All three handles are comprised of Carbon Fiber wrapped composite shafts to provide a lightweight and durable structure that can withstand harsh marine environments. Whether you're a recreational boater or a professional angler, the Newport Tiller Extension Handle is a must-have accessory for anyone who wants to take their boating experience to the next level.

Key Features

Three Sizes

Available in three different lengths (18", 24", 32"), allowing boaters to choose the perfect size for their needs.

Lightweight

Extremely lightweight in design, making it easy to handle and maneuver.

Oversized Tightening Knob

The knob is made of polymer plastic to provide a secure and tight hold of the tiller handle.

Built to withstand harsh marine conditions and is designed to last.

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The Carbon Fiber handles provide unmatched durability on the water.

Comfort in every grip

Ergonomic silicone handles for increased comfort.

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Exactly what I was looking for!!

Fantastic. Handle is made strong, but yet light and easy to work with. Makes it a lot easier to steer with the extension. Highly recommended if you needed a little extra reach to the trolling motor handle.

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Tiller extension

Fits perfect and looks great. Couldn’t be happier!

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Lightweight and fits snug

Exactly as advertised and worth the extra money in comparison to competitors extension handles. Newports quality is at a higher level than any other company then I’ve found.

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