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Rolex Yacht-Master II Ultimate Buying Guide

There are some Rolex watches that are more or less universally loved, with a simple and versatile aesthetic that leaves little room for any sort of animosity. However, there are others within the portfolio that almost seem to have been created specifically to invite controversy, taking the brand away from its traditional design base and into more contentious territories. The Rolex Yacht-Master II collection is one of those watches.

When it arrived in the mid-2000s, the Yachtmaster II was so far removed from anything Rolex had created before that nobody seemed to know quite what to make of it. The watch was a big, bold and extremely expensive addition to the catalog, and while it was obviously slotted into the brand’s Professional Collection, it stuck out like the proverbial sore thumb. However, that was back then. Looking at the brand’s catalog today, it seems that Rolex was simply ahead of the game.

The Yacht Master II’s once challenging looks have matured, and although it is still most definitely a visually striking watch, it is no longer considered completely over the top. Mechanically, it is also incredibly impressive. On its debut, it instantly became Rolex’s most complicated watch, with a one-of-a-kind functionality aimed at about as niche a group as you could imagine. Below we have laid out a complete guide to the Rolex Yacht-Master II with everything you need to know in order to make an informed decision.

Rolex Yacht-Master II

Yacht-Master II Key Features:

– Year Introduced: 2007

– Case Size: 44mm

– Materials: Oystersteel; Everose Rolesor; 18k Yellow Gold; 18k White Gold & Platinum

– Functions: Time w/Running Seconds, Programmable Regatta Timer w/ Mechanical Memory

– Dial: White w/ Luminous Hour Markers

– Bezel: Ring Command, Blue Ceramic or Platinum Insert w/ 10-Minute Countdown Scale

– Crystal: Sapphire (Flat)

– Movement: Rolex Caliber 4161

– Water Resistance: 100 Meters / 330 Feet

– Strap/Bracelet: Oyster Bracelet

– Retail Price: $18,750 – $48,150 USD (Approx.)

For more info, visit our guide on how to use the regatta timer on the Rolex Yacht-Master II.

Rolex Yacht-Master II History

Launched in 2007, the Rolex Yacht Master II debuted some 15-years after its original Yachtmaster namesake. However, the similarities between this watch and the model that first carried the Yacht-Master name are pretty much zero.

Where the earlier model is essentially a more luxurious take on the Rolex Submariner, the Yacht-Master II is a fully-fledged item of luxury professional sailing equipment, designed from the outset to assist skippers keep track of time during the complicated starting sequence of a regatta. That technically leaves the Yacht-Master II in the tool watch category, but this is a long way from the likes of the more utilitarian Explorer II and evidence of that can be found in its release schedule.

The first versions of the Rolex Yacht Master II to be unveiled were the 18k yellow gold ref. 116688 and the even more opulent 18k white gold version fitted with a platinum bezel, the ref. 116689. Quite a bit removed from the brand’s usually conservative styling, this large, gleaming, in-your-face effort that shouted its own name across its bezel, was an immediate opinion splitter. Traditionalists were horrified, lamenting Rolex’s continued straying from its roots, while others who enjoy having their watches noticed, embraced it wholeheartedly.

The financial crash that followed in 2008 altered the landscape for watchmakers (along with everyone else) and called for more affordable pieces to come forward. The Yachtmaster II collection expanded in 2011 with the unveiling of the ref. 116681, an Everose Rolesor model with a stainless steel case and outer bracelet links paired with a winding crown, pushers, and central links in Everose gold. That was followed by the version everyone was clamoring for in 2013 – the ref. 116680 in full stainless steel, which also introduced a new caliber, the Cal. 4161, replacing the former Cal. 4160.

The only other change the watch has undergone since then occurred on its 10th anniversary in 2017, when it was given a facelift so slight that Rolex didn’t even feel it warranted a new reference number. The square hour markers at the six and 12 o’clock were changed to a rectangle and inverted triangle respectively, and the simple stick handset was swapped for the Mercedes type to bring them in-line with much of the rest of the brand’s Professional Collection.

How Much Is A Rolex Yacht-Master II?

When the Rolex Yacht-Master II first arrived, the combination of its exclusively precious metal construction and the extraordinary engineering going on inside its movement meant that it was among the most expensive offerings in Rolex’s catalog . This left many admirers priced out of the picture, but the introduction of stainless steel and two-tone references would soon open the Yacht-Master II up to a much wider range of buyers.

The Rolesor model from 2011 sacrificed some of that wall-to-wall gold for 904L stainless steel and more or less cut the asking price in half, while the full steel version dropped the retail price even further. Today, brand-new examples vary from $18,750 for the full stainless steel model up to $48,150 for the white gold and platinum version. But what about pre-owned prices?

The rather love-it-or-hate-it visuals of the Rolex Yacht Master II means that it doesn’t attract quite the same level of universal frenzy as the Daytona or Submariner. It is not completely out of the question for an authorized retailer to even have a model or two in stock, which isn’t something that can be said about the vast majority of the brand’s other sports watches. For that reason, pre-owned models do command a bit of a premium, but nowhere near as much as some of the other models in the brand’s catalog.

You can expect to pay a minimum of around $18,000 for an unworn steel piece on the secondary market, while the Everose Rolesor edition comes in closer to about $25,000. The 18k yellow gold ref. 116688 also holds pretty steady, with most examples falling somewhere in the $40,000 to $45,000 range, depending on age and overall condition. Finally, the ref. 116689 – the top-of-the-line model in white gold and platinum, is where the biggest discounts can be found. A brand-new example costs $48,150 at an authorized dealer, but an older example on the pre-owned market can often be found for just under $30,000.

Rolex Yacht-Master II Design

The Yacht-Master II is arguably the least “Rolex-looking” Rolex watch ever made, which is the core reason behind why it ruffled so many feathers among purist collectors upon its release. It’s arrival took the brand down previously unexplored experimental paths, a very far cry from the sort of discreetly restrained icons present throughout the rest of its portfolio.

The Yacht-Master II is a hard-working watch with a lot of information to present and as a result, it has what initially looks like somewhat of a cluttered dial. However, a lot of that is down to a trick of the eye concerning the bezel’s 1-10 numerals being mirrored exactly around the horseshoe-shaped track on the face. This is obviously the regatta countdown scale, designed to help yacht skippers synchronize their boats’ movements with the race’s starting gun (we’ll get onto this more a little later).

What it means for the overall styling is a lot of numbers on the watch that you will not be using for the vast majority of the time you are wearing it. But while it may come across as a little jam-packed – particularly when you add in the chronograph hand, arrowhead countdown pointer, and a small running seconds sub-dial at the bottom – once you get used to it, you can’t help but be impressed with how much Rolex’s technicians have achieved with so little. No, it isn’t exactly the Explorer’s 3/6/9 arrangement, but it is perfectly readable with a little familiarity and conveys the information it provides in a clean and legible manner.

Despite only containing four models (all of which have white dials), the series actually covers a good range of tastes. The ref. 116688 could be in the running for most showy standard-production Rolex currently available, its all-yellow gold case somehow making the bright blue bezel pop even more. At the other end, the white gold and platinum ref. 116689 is as low-key and reserved as a 44mm wide, 14mm thick, highly-complicated, solid-gold sports watch can be. The virtual monochrome is lifted only by the red chrono hand and arrowed pointer.

In-between, the stainless steel and Everose Rolesor models do the job of appealing to more middle-of-the-road palates. Their color combinations, along with the mix of brushed and polished elements on the watch itself, keep it all on the right side of overdone, and the two-tone model’s bezel numerals also being filled in Everose gold is a nice touch. Unlikely to ever be described as subtle, any version of the Rolex Yacht-Master II is guaranteed to receive some attention.

Rolex Yacht-Master II Functions

Looks aside, the big talking point around the Rolex Yacht Master II lies in what it can do. There is a strong argument against calling the watch a genuine chronograph as it doesn’t so much keep track of elapsed time in the traditional sense, as it does count backwards from a specific starting point, up to a maximum of 10-minutes.

How is that useful? It is all down to how a professional regatta gets underway. Due to the nature of wind and water, it simply isn’t possible to get a bunch of yachts all lined up at a particular spot in the ocean and have them set off at the same time. Instead, the start of a race goes in stages, with each one marked by a gunshot or other audible signal. The first is usually sounded 10-minutes before the start (although it can also be seven or even five), and the skippers must maneuver their boats back and forth in front of the line without crossing it, jockeying with the other competitors for prime position.

There follows two further preparatory signals at precise intervals, and crews must coordinate their approach so they are as close to the start point as possible at the exact moment the race officially begins. It is that pair of additional signals that call into action one of the party tricks of the Yacht-Master II’s unique complication. Should the watch fall out of sync with the regatta reference clock for any reason, a press of the lower pusher activates the flyback (or fly-forward) function, snapping the chronograph hand to the nearest minute to allow the two timers to match up again. Even more notably, it is the only mechanical watch in the world with a programmable memory, meaning the wearer can reset back to the specified original countdown point at any time.

Giving access to all this engineering virtuosity is what Rolex has dubbed its Ring Command Bezel. This was the first appearance of the concept, with the second generation taking control of the Sky-Dweller’s myriad of functions a few years later. On both models, the bezel is directly linked to the internal movement, and on the Yacht-Master II, it acts as an analogue on/off switch. Rotating it 90° unlocks the functionality and allows for the countdown timer to be set with the crown. Turning it back again locks everything in place, and engages the memory. The watch is then operated as a standard chronograph, with the top pusher activating the starts and stops, and the bottom taking charge of the reset or flyback/fly-forward functions.

For a manufacturer not renowned for the complexity of its watches (quite the opposite, in fact) Rolex’s regatta timer is a seriously impressive performer. It may have been created for an especially select group, but it is truly surprising how useful it can be to count down accurately from 10-minutes, even for those of us who may not own a yacht – particularly if you like your pasta al dente.

Rolex Yacht-Master II Movement

The first run of the Rolex Yacht-Master II was powered by the in-house Caliber 4160. At the time, it was the most component-heavy movement the brand had ever created, but it was essentially a heavily reworked version of the Cal. 4130 from the Daytona. The column wheel, vertical clutch and ball-bearing rotor were all carried over from the brand’s legendary racing chronograph.

Obviously there is nothing wrong with that, and the Rolex Daytona’s movement remains one of the most reliable and accurate mass-produced chronograph calibers of the modern era. However, with the arrival of the long-awaited stainless steel Yacht-Master II in 2013, Rolex also unveiled a new mechanism, the Caliber 4161, the product of additional refinements and some 35,000 hours of development.

Made up of over 360 components, including those produced via a highly specialized fabrication process called UV-LiGA which uses ultraviolet light to build microstructures, this dedicated movement provided a crisper feel to the pushers and greater reliability. With that in mind, both the Cal. 4160 and the Cal. 4161 benefitted from Rolex advances such as the blue Parachrom hairspring, as well as providing users with a highly-respectable 72-hour power reserve and a 28,800vph balance frequency.

Rolex Yacht-Master II Bracelet

At the present time, all of the various Rolex Yacht-Master II models are fitted with the three-link Oyster bracelet, as befits a true sports watch. On each version, the inner links have been given a high polish to match the gleaming case, while the outer links receive a satin finish to provide a contrast against the lugs.

As for material, the bracelet is crafted from the same metal as the watch head: stainless steel, yellow gold or white gold. With the Rolesor example, the innermost links are forged from Everose gold, leaving the outer side links in 904L stainless Oystersteel. Tying it all together is the Oysterlock folding clasp, equipped with the brand’s Easylink extension system that allows for approximately 5mm of tool-free bracelet adjustment, completely on the fly and without the use of any tools.

The Yacht-Master II was something of a retaliation from Rolex against decades-worth of naysayers criticizing the brand for the lack of complicated watches in its lineup. Rolex’s rebuttal, while not the most all-encompassing in terms of looks or utility, still stands as a hugely significant piece of technical dexterity. Rolex has always produced tool watches, but as the company continues to make the transition towards being a true luxury manufacturer, the tool watches it produces also take on a more luxurious nature and the Yacht-Master II perfectly embodies this. Large and uncompromising, it is perhaps the most eccentric model Rolex has to offer – and it is always happy to take center stage.

About Paul Altieri

Paul Altieri is a vintage and pre-owned Rolex specialist, entrepreneur, and the founder and CEO of BobsWatches.com. - the largest and most trusted name in luxury watches. He is widely considered a pioneer in the industry for bringing transparency and innovation to a once-considered stagnant industry. His experience spans over 35 years and he has been published in numerous publications including Forbes, The NY Times, WatchPro, and Fortune Magazine. Paul is committed to staying up-to-date with the latest research and developments in the watch industry and e-commerce, and regularly engages with other professionals in the industry. He is a member of the IWJG, the AWCI and a graduate of the GIA. Alongside running the premier retailer of pre-owned Rolex watches, Paul is a prominent Rolex watch collector himself amassing one of the largest private collections of rare timepieces. In an interview with the WSJ lifestyle/fashion editor Christina Binkley, Paul opened his vault to display his extensive collection of vintage Rolex Submariners and Daytonas. Paul Altieri is a trusted and recognized authority in the watch industry with a proven track record of expertise, professionalism, and commitment to excellence.

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Rolex Yacht-Master II Introduction

The Yacht-Master II was released in 2007 with its signature regatta timer complication. It is the younger, bolder sibling of Rolex’s Yacht-Master that debuted in 1992. While the original Yacht-Master displays similarities to the ever-popular Rolex Submariner , the Yacht-Master II is in a class of its own, both visually and mechanically.

Rolex Yacht-Master II History

The Yacht-Master II was purpose-built for competitive sailors. The tool watch’s boldly designed case houses a programmable countdown timer that is controlled by rotating the bezel. Large and attention-grabbing, the Yacht-Master II presents a design aesthetic that pushes the boundaries of what a Rolex can be.

First introduced in 2007, the Yacht-Master II was offered in yellow and white gold variations under references 116688 and 116689 , respectively. An Everose gold/steel two-tone Rolesor version (ref. 116681) was added in 2011, followed by the stainless steel reference 116680 two years later. With a case size of 44mm that rises 13.9mm on the wrist, the Yacht-Master II commands attention on the wrist both from owners and observers. The bold bezel houses a platinum- or gold-filled blue Cerachrom ceramic insert with a 10-minute scale above the words “Yacht-Master II.” This was no ordinary bezel, however.

Deemed the “Ring Command” bezel by Rolex, it is directly connected to the watch’s mechanism to program the Yacht-Master II’s 10-minute countdown timer. During the 10-minute interval leading up to the start of a regatta, sailors jockey to position their crafts as close to the starting line as possible. Precision is key since crossing the line early results in a penalty and being too far out puts the boat at an immediate disadvantage. The exclusive Yacht-Master II complication allows a sailor to program the countdown, store it in the mechanism and synchronize to the official race countdown on-the-fly

The Yacht-Master II’s characteristics have been relatively stable since the watch debuted. Its case is free of sharp edges and perfectly cradles the Triplock crown and subtly detailed pushers. The matte white dial offers outstanding legibility for contrasting elements. Hours are marked by luminous rectangular shapes with a triangle marker at 12 o’clock on models produced after 2017. With that refresh, Rolex also updated the straight hour hand with the familiar Mercedes style that appears on other Rolex Professional watches. A small second register at 6 o’clock and the countdown timer indices that arc gracefully from approximately 8 o’clock to 4 o’clock complete the look.

Rolex Yacht-Master II Features

The Yacht-Master II’s power is produced by Rolex’s in-house designed and manufactured calibre 4161 COSC-certified automatic movement. Comprised of roughly 360 individual components, the Cal. 4161 features a 70-hour power reserve, flyback and fly-forward chronograph functionality, anti-magnetism and shock-resistance and, of course, Rolex’s patented 10-minute countdown timer.

The watch is unapologetically large with a 44mm case that measures a massive 57.4mm end-link to end-link. Details include a screw-down case back and protected Triplock crown flanked by delicately etched pushers. The Oyster case is water resistant to 100 meters. The Yacht-Master II’s Oyster bracelet is a classic Rolex three-piece design with polished center links, satin sides and Oysterlock safety clasp. An Easylink extension allows a rapid 5mm adjustment to the bracelet length without the need for tools.

Yellow Gold

White gold + platinum, two-tone rolesor (everose gold + steel).

The Yacht-Master II’s color palate and design evoke nautical themes that are inspired by the presence of red and blue accents. In the dark, luminescent Chromalight hands and markers glow with a vibrant blue that lasts up to eight hours. The timer markings, however, do not have lume.

The Yacht-Master II is available in four materials: yellow gold, white gold + platinum, two-tone Rolesor (Everose gold + steel) and steel. All are topped by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal that is surrounded by the Yacht-Master II’s Ring Command bezel in solid platinum or with a blue ceramic insert.

Rolex Yacht-Master II Value and Collectability

The Yacht-Master II is a bit of an outlier in the Rolex family. It is visually imposing and technologically advanced, but Rolex purists opine that it does not deliver the classic Rolex experience of more traditional sports models like the Submariner, Sea-Dweller or Explorer. For collectors and enthusiasts seeking a rare timepiece that stands out from all other Rolex designs, the Yacht-Master II is an excellent choice. Retail prices for new Yacht-Master II models range from approximately $19,000 for steel to nearly $50,000 for the luxe white gold/platinum edition.

Pre-owned Rolex Yacht-Master IIs in gold or platinum with original papers and boxes typically sell well below retail, though prices on used steel versions trend just slightly below new. Many Rolex aficionados consider the Yacht-Master II to be undervalued in the used Rolex marketplace and firmly expect that it will emerge as a highly prized collectors watch.

Watchmaker’s Perspective

The regatta countdown timer function on the Rolex Yacht-Master II is a fascinating feature that gets a lot of attention. And the Caliber 4161 movement used to power the Yacht-Master II is extremely complex, with over 360 parts. But how are those parts made? From the watchmaker's perspective, the manufacturing technology used to create such a complicated movement is especially intriguing.

For the Caliber 4161, Rolex made extensive use of LIGA technology. LIGA is a German acronym meaning Lithographie, Galvanoformung, Abformung (Lithography, Electroplating and Molding). The LIGA process allows parts to be manufactured that would have been nearly impossible with traditional methods, due to their shapes.

The LIGA process is closely related to semiconductor manufacturing and uses similar tools. A patterned mask is used to project UV light onto photosensitive resin at a very high resolution. This creates a micro-mold, which is then used to grow parts inside of. When the metal parts are completely grown, an acid strips away the photosensitive resin, leaving the finished part. This technology is opening up new avenues to watchmakers—one example is the fantastically complex Caliber 4161 in the Rolex Yacht-Master II.

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GMT-Master II

THE COSMOPOLITAN WATCH

The Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II was designed to display the time in two different time zones simultaneously. Robust and functional, it is the ideal watch for criss-crossing the globe.

In function as well as in name, the GMT-Master II evokes long-distance travel across time zones. Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) marks mean solar time at the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, London – historically the location of the official prime meridian used for calculating longitude and determining different time zones around the world. A cosmopolitan watch, the GMT-Master II is designed for those who criss-cross the globe or whose activities take place simultaneously across several time zones.

ACROSS TIME ZONES Launched in 1955, the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master witnessed the rapid expansion of intercontinental travel in the latter half of the 20th century. It even became the official watch of Pan American World Airways, better known worldwide as Pan Am, the most prominent American intercontinental airline at the time. In 1959, a major event marked the partnership: the first non-stop Pan Am Jet Clipper flight from New York to Moscow. The captain was wearing a GMT-Master, which was used as a navigation aid during the flight. The GMT-Master, a true ‘tool watch’, evolved continually to offer increasing technical performance. In 1982, Rolex introduced a new movement that allowed the hour hand to be set independently of the other hands. To clearly mark this evolution, and to avoid any confusion with the GMT-Master, the model fitted with the optimized movement was named the GMT-Master II.

24-HOUR DISPLAY AND INDEPENDENT HOUR HAND In addition to conventional hour, minute and seconds hands, which display the local time (the time in the wearer’s current location), the GMT-Master II features an arrow-tipped hand which circles the dial once every 24 hours, as well as a bidirectional rotatable bezel and a 24-hour graduated monobloc Cerachrom insert in two-colour ceramic. When the bezel is in the neutral position, that is with the triangle at 12 o’clock, the 24-hour hand displays a reference time (home time, for example), which can be read using the graduations on the bezel . When abroad, travellers can set the local time easily, with the hour hand ‘ jumping ’ from hour to hour thanks to a mechanism operated via the winding crown. The adjustment can be made independently of the minute and seconds hands, and without affecting the 24-hour hand. As a result, travellers can simultaneously read their local time as well as the reference time .

ROTATABLE BEZEL AND ALTERNATIVE TIME ZONE The time in an alternative time zone can be displayed by simply turning the rotatable bezel. In this case, the reference time is no longer shown, as it is the alternative time zone that is now read via the 24-hour hand against the graduations on the bezel. The bezel was carefully designed to ideally fulfil its function. Rolex developed a bezel rotation system with a trigonal spring that allows the bezel to be turned crisply and securely in either direction and locate with a positive click in each of the 24 different hour positions. The bezel can be turned with ease thanks to its knurled edge, which offers excellent grip.

CERACHROM BEZEL INSERT The bidirectional rotatable bezel of the GMT-Master II is equipped with a 24-hour graduated, monobloc two-colour Cerachrom insert. This patented insert is made of extremely hard, virtually scratchproof ceramics whose colours are unaffected by ultraviolet rays. In addition, thanks to its chemical composition, the high-tech ceramic is inert and cannot corrode. The moulded, recessed graduations and numerals are coated with gold or platinum using a PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) process. Over and above its functions and its intrinsic technical assets, the bezel of the GMT-Master II contributes to the model’s strong visual identity. In 2013, Rolex broke new ground when it introduced its first single-piece, two-colour ceramic bezel insert – blue on one half and black on the other – on an Oystersteel version of the GMT-Master II. A year later, it unveiled the two-colour bezel insert in red and blue ceramic, on a GMT-Master II in 18 ct white gold. In 2018, the brand presented a two-colour bezel insert in brown and black ceramic, on two variants of the GMT-Master II – one in 18 ct Everose gold and the other in an Everose Rolesor version (combining Oystersteel and Everose gold). The two-colour bezel insert in green and black ceramic was introduced in 2022 on an Oystersteel GMT-Master II with the winding crown on the left side of the case and the date aperture at 9 o’clock – the only Rolex watch with this configuration. In 2023, a two-colour Cerachrom insert in grey – a new shade – and black was unveiled on two variants of the model, one in a yellow Rolesor version (combining Oystersteel and yellow gold) and the other crafted entirely from 18 ct yellow gold. These Cerachrom inserts blend the exceptional resistance of high-technology ceramic with the iconic aesthetics of the original GMT-Master.

THE GMT-MASTER II, SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER CERTIFIED Like all Rolex watches, the GMT-Master II is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015. This exclusive designation testifies that every watch leaving the brand’s workshops has successfully undergone a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its own laboratories and according to its own criteria. These certification tests apply to the fully assembled watch, after casing the movement, guaranteeing superlative performance on the wrist in terms of precision, power reserve, waterproofness and self-winding. The Superlative Chronometer status is symbolized by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee. The precision of every movement – officially certified as a chronometer by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) – is tested a second time by Rolex after being cased, to ensure that it meets criteria that are far stricter than those of the official certification. The precision of a Rolex Superlative Chronometer is of the order of −2/+2 seconds per day – the rate deviation tolerated by the brand for a finished watch is significantly smaller than that accepted by COSC for official certification of the movement alone. The Superlative Chronometer certification testing is carried out after casing using state-of-the-art equipment specially developed by Rolex and according to an exclusive protocol that simulates the conditions in which a watch is actually worn and more closely represents real-life experience. The entirely automated series of tests also checks the waterproofness, the self-winding capacity and the power reserve of 100 per cent of Rolex watches. These tests systematically complement the qualification testing during development and production, in order to ensure the watches’ reliability, robustness, and resistance to strong magnetic fields and to shocks.

THE OYSTER CASE, SYMBOL OF WATERPROOFNESS The GMT-Master II’s Oyster case, 40 mm in diameter and guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet), is a paragon of robustness and reliability. The middle case is crafted from a solid block of Oystersteel or 18 ct gold. The case back, edged with fine fluting, is hermetically screwed down with a special tool that allows only certified Rolex watchmakers to access the movement. The Triplock winding crown, fitted with a triple waterproofness system and protected by an integral crown guard, screws down securely against the case. The crystal, with a Cyclops lens for easy reading of the date at 3 o’clock – or at 9 o’clock on the version with the winding crown on the left side of the case – is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire and benefits from an anti-reflective coating. The waterproof Oyster case provides optimal protection for the movement it houses.

CALIBRE 3285 The GMT-Master II is equipped with calibre 3285, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. A consummate demonstration of technology, this movement carries a number of patents. It offers outstanding performance, particularly in terms of precision, power reserve, convenience and reliability.

Calibre 3285 incorporates the patented Chronergy escapement, made of nickel-phosphorus, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability and is also resistant to strong magnetic fields.

The movement is fitted with the blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by Rolex in a paramagnetic alloy. In addition to resisting strong magnetic fields, this hairspring offers great stability in the face of temperature variations as well as high resistance to shocks. It is equipped with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring the calibre’s regularity in any position.

The oscillator of calibre 3285 has a large balance wheel with variable inertia regulated extremely precisely via gold Microstella nuts. It is held firmly in place by a height-adjustable traversing bridge enabling very stable positioning to increase shock resistance. The oscillator is also mounted on the Rolex-designed, patented high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, further enhancing the movement’s shock resistance.

Calibre 3285 is equipped with a self-winding system via a Perpetual rotor, which ensures continuous winding of the mainspring by harnessing the movements of the wrist to provide a constant source of energy. Its oscillating weight has been fitted with an optimized ball bearing since 2023. Thanks to its barrel architecture and the escapement’s superior efficiency, the power reserve of this movement extends to approximately 70 hours.

The GMT-Master II’s movement will be seen only by certified Rolex watchmakers, yet it is beautifully finished and decorated. Since 2023, it has also been marked with the words ‘Chronometer Perpetual’ and ‘Superlative Adjusted’ engraved respectively on the oscillating weight and on the bridges.

BRACELET AND CLASP: SECURE AND COMFORTABLE The GMT-Master II is available on a three-piece link Oyster bracelet or a five-piece link Jubilee bracelet. These two bracelets are equipped with a Rolex-designed, patented Oysterlock safety clasp that prevents accidental opening. They are fitted with the Easylink comfort extension link, developed by the brand, which allows the wearer to easily increase the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm, providing additional comfort in any circumstance. On the 18 ct gold versions of the GMT-Master II, the Oyster and Jubilee bracelets include ceramic inserts – designed by Rolex and patented – inside the links to enhance their flexibility and longevity.

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The Oyster Perpetual Submariner in Oystersteel with a Cerachrom bezel insert in black ceramic and a black dial with large luminescent hour markers.

Unidirectional rotatable bezel, an underwater tool.

The Submariner's rotatable bezel is a key functionality of the watch. Its 60-minute graduations allow a diver to accurately and safely monitor diving time and decompression stops.

Manufactured by Rolex from a hard, corrosion-resistant ceramic, the Cerachrom bezel insert is virtually scratchproof. A luminescent capsule on the zero marker ensures legibility, no matter how dark the environment. The bezel’s knurled edge is carefully designed to offer excellent grip under water, even with gloves.

For legibility underwater

The dial’s luminescent Chromalight display is an innovation that improved visibility in dark environments, an essential feature for divers.

Hour markers in simple shapes – triangles, circles, rectangles – and broad hour and minute hands enable instant and reliable reading to prevent any risk of confusion underwater.

Oystersteel

Highly resistant to corrosion

Rolex uses Oystersteel for its steel watch cases. Specially developed by the brand, Oystersteel belongs to the 904L steel family, alloys most commonly used in high-technology and in the aerospace and chemical industries, where maximum resistance to corrosion is essential.

Oystersteel is extremely resistant, offers an exceptional finish once polished and maintains its beauty even in the harshest environments.

The Oyster bracelet

Alchemy of form and function.

The Oyster bracelet is a perfect alchemy of form and function, aesthetics and technology, designed to be both robust and comfortable.

It is equipped with an Oysterlock clasp, which prevents accidental opening, and an ingenious Glidelock, allowing fine adjustments of the bracelet without using any tools — and allowing it to be worn comfortably over a diving suit.

More Submariner technical details

Reference   124060

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Oyster, 41 mm, Oystersteel

Oyster architecture

Monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown

Unidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated, scratch-resistant Cerachrom insert in black ceramic, numerals and graduations coated in platinum

Winding crown

Screw-down, Triplock triple waterproofness system

Scratch-resistant sapphire

Water resistance

Waterproof to 300 metres / 1,000 feet

Perpetual, mechanical, self-winding

3230, Manufacture Rolex

-2/+2 sec/day, after casing

Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring. High-performance Paraflex shock absorbers

Bidirectional self-winding via Perpetual rotor

Power reserve

Approximately 70 hours

Oyster, three-piece solid links

Folding Oysterlock safety clasp with Rolex Glidelock extension system

Highly legible Chromalight display with long-lasting blue luminescence

Certification

Superlative Chronometer (COSC + Rolex certification after casing)

Learn how to set the time and other functions of your Rolex watch by consulting our user guides.

Contact an Official Rolex Jeweler

Only official Rolex jewelers are allowed to sell and maintain a Rolex watch. With the necessary skills, technical know-how and special equipment, they guarantee the authenticity of each and every part of your Rolex and help you make the choice that will last a lifetime.

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Roger Federer Just Rocked One of Rolex’s Coolest Sports Watches

By Oren Hartov

Earlier this week, at the New York premiere of his new documentary Federer: Twelve Final Days , tennis icon and Rolex testimonee Roger Federer strapped on the Yacht-Master II ref. 226627—a watch so lightweight that I feared, upon first handling it in Geneva last year, that I might crush it, thus owing Rolex corporate headquarters a check for $14,050 (plus tax).

The ref. 226627 was not Rolex’s first titanium watch—that distinction belongs to the 50mm-wise Deepsea Challenge , which was seemingly designed for James Cameron to wear while plumbing the depths of the Atlantic for sunken ocean liners. The Yacht-Master II, on the other hand, is arguably more exciting: Measuring a more comfortable 42mm wide, it was first spotted on the wrist of skipper (and fellow Rolex testimonee) Sir Ben Aislney back in the fall of 2021. No longer a prototype and now a full production model, it’s crafted from Grade 5 RLX titanium and is available for purchase. ( Theoretically, at least. )

What makes this Submariner-esque watch different from, well, a Submariner ? The two are admittedly similar in design, with a few key differences: There’s the RXL titanium case, of course, but then there’s also the 42mm sizing (as opposed to 41mm on the Sub); a bidirectional timing bezel with a sand-blasted Cerachrom insert (instead of the Sub’s unidirectional dive bezel); the date window (which is only seen on Submariner Date models); and the matching, RLX titanium Oyster bracelet with Oysterlock folding clasp and Easylink comfort extension. (The Sub doesn’t have an available titanium bracelet.)

Other than that, both the Submariner Date and the Yacht-Master II are powered by Rolex’s automatic Calibre 3235 movement with 70 hours of power reserve, and both are made for aquatic use. The Sub, however, is a diver’s watch rated to 300m of water resistance; the Yacht-Master II, on the other hand, is made for sailing and is water resistant to 100m—still respectable, to be sure, but best kept to the deck of a cutting-edge racing craft.

Seeing the Yacht-Master II on Federer’s wrist is more fun than notable—it looks perfectly at home when paired with his dark suit at the photocall, though it's a distinctly sporty piece made to be used and abused. Being a Rolex testimonee, of course, Federer has been spotted in just about every notable Crown offering over the past few years, from the Le Mans Daytona to the Sky-Dweller in precious metals and more. (The man pulls off a dressy 1908 with black tie beautifully, but let’s be real—this is a brand famed for its sport watches, and we’re talking about one of the world’s most renowned athletes.) Having cycled through many of the brand’s most compelling offerings, the only remaining pertinent question is: How do we get Fed into a “Leopard” Daytona ?

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