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Halyards, Sheets, and Lines: A Guide to Choosing and Maintaining Your Sailboat Rigging

11 May 2023

Ask Precision Sails , Hardware , Maintenance , Technical

How to Choose the Right Halyard/Sheet

When choosing a halyard for your sailboat, several factors come into play. These include the weight of the sail, the type of sail, the sailboat’s size, and the expected wind conditions. You should also consider the halyard’s stretch, which affects sail shape and performance. It is essential to choose a halyard that matches the load the sail will have on the line. Low-stretch halyards are ideal for racing and performance sailing, where every fraction of a knot counts.

Some Things to Consider when Choosing a Halyard or Sheet Include:

• Material: The material you choose for your line can affect its strength, durability, and stretch resistance.
• Diameter: The diameter of your halyard or sheet should be appropriate for the load the sail will apply to it and the size of your boat.
• Length: The length of your halyard or sheet should allow you to run your lines wherever they are needed, plus some extra for you to trim and tie off with.
• Attachment: The type of attachment you choose for your halyard or sheet can change depending on how you run your sheets and how the head of your sail is configured.
• Review Your Options: Making a decision about lines can be daunting, luckily Precision Sails has made it easy for you to pick your halyard or sheets by simplifying the process into two groups and pre-selecting the diameter, length, and attachment for your boat and line.

Here is a Quick Guide to Explain Material Choice:

The Precision Cruising series employs high-quality polyester lines, which are a good all-around option for starting and performing well. Polyester halyards and sheets are the most common and suitable for most sizes of sailboats, but they do stretch more than other lines like dyneema, spectra, or stirotex, which can affect sail shape and performance.

To address this, the Precision Performance series focuses on using stronger and stretch-resistant inner cores, making them ideal for racing sailboats that require high precision and tight tolerances. These lines are made of stirotex, which you may recognize by the name of spectra or dyneema. Stirotex is a chemically identical variation. The parent compound in these high-tension lines is HMPE. These lines are the strongest and least stretchy, making them the top choice for high-performance racing sailboats.

How to Maintain Your Halyards, Sheets, and Lines

Proper maintenance of your halyards is crucial for their longevity and reliability. Some tips for maintaining your halyards include:

Maintenance Checklist

• Regular inspection: Check your lines regularly for signs of wear, fraying, or damage.
• Cleaning: Clean your halyards and sheets periodically with soap and water to remove dirt and salt buildup.
• Lubrication: Lubricate your halyards and sheets with a silicone spray or dry lubricant to reduce friction and wear.
• Storage: When not in use, store your lines coiled neatly and out of direct sunlight if you can.

Signs of Wear – How to Inspect Your Lines

Lines that show obvious signs of deterioration must be discarded and replaced immediately. One of the most apparent and hazardous signs of wear on a line is a cut or damaged sheath that exposes the core. In such cases, it is important to retire the line immediately to prevent any further damage or potential failures. 

Other signs may include hardness around the sheath or fuzziness. These signs may be particularly evident near the connection points or any areas of high friction. It’s also important to pay attention to any changes in the handling or feel of the line, as this may indicate internal damage or other issues that require attention. 

A way to protect your investment is proper care and cleaning and avoiding the use of harsh chemicals or high-pressure washers, which can damage the fibers. This can be done by soaking them in a bucket of warm water with mild soap or detergent, then rinsing thoroughly and allowing them to air dry. This helps to remove any salt, dirt, or grime that may have accumulated, which can cause premature wear and tear if left unchecked. 

A way to visualize this is to envision dirt particles getting trapped between the fibers of the line and causing small tears in the weave. When the line is put under tension, these dirt particles act like miniature saw blades, gradually weakening the line over time and potentially leading to catastrophic failures. Therefore, regular cleaning and maintenance of your lines, including halyards and sheets, is essential to ensure their longevity and reliability and to avoid any dangerous situations while out on the water.

Inspecting Your Lines for Damage

Pro tip: Usage level and proper care is a more important indicator than age

Let’s dispel some common misconceptions about when to retire a sailboat line. For example, some sailors may retire a line based solely on its age, rather than its condition. We want to stress the importance of inspecting lines regularly and retiring them when signs of wear or damage are detected, regardless of their age. Here’s a helpful checklist so you know what to look for on your lines.

Inspection Checklist

• Check for visual signs of wear and tear, such as fraying or abrasions, which can weaken the line and compromise its strength. Be sure to examine the line thoroughly, paying particular attention to any areas of high friction or wear.
• Run your hands along the length of the line, feeling for any hard or soft spots, which can indicate internal damage or wear. If you detect any abnormalities, consider retiring the line or seeking professional advice.
• Look for any signs of UV damage, which can cause the line to degrade over time. This is particularly important for lines that are exposed to sunlight for extended periods.
• Check the diameter of the line, ensuring that it matches the manufacturer’s specifications. Any significant deviations may indicate that the line has been stretched or otherwise damaged.
• Examine the connection points, including splices and knots, ensuring that they are secure and free from any signs of wear or damage.

To recap, lines, halyards, and sheets are an essential component of any sailing vessel, and choosing the right halyard for your boat is a necessary part of outfitting your vessel. Regular maintenance and proper care of your halyards can ensure their longevity and reliability. We hope this article has provided valuable insights into halyards, sheets, and lines, though we understand that it may seem like a lot of information.

If you feel overwhelmed by the amount of information, don’t worry, we have simplified the process of finding the right line for your boat. Simply fill out a form , and we will send you the best fit and our professional opinion based on the type of sailing you plan on doing. If you have any questions, comments, or wish to order lines from our sail consultants, please don’t hesitate to contact us.

FAQ’s

Q: What is a sailboat halyard?

A: Halyards are ropes or lines used to hoist sails, flags, and other equipment on a boat.

Q: What is a sailboat sheet?

A: A sailboat sheet is a line that is attached to the lower corner of a sail and used to control its position relative to the wind. The sheet is usually led through a block or a series of blocks, which allow the sailor to adjust the sail’s angle and trim it for maximum efficiency. In addition to controlling the sail’s position, the sheet also helps to control the sail’s shape and tension, which can affect the boat’s speed and handling.

Q: Can different types of materials be used to make halyards, sheets, and lines?

A: Yes, lines can be made of various materials such as polyester, nylon, stirotex, and dyneema. Each material has its own strengths and weaknesses, and the choice of material depends on the type of sailing and personal preference.

Q: How do I determine the length of halyard I need for my sailboat?

A: It’s important to consult with a sail consultant or experienced sailor to ensure you get the correct length. The length of halyard you need will depend on the height of your mast, the type and size of the sail you will be using, and where you plan on trimming your sails. Calculating the length is more complex than simply taking a guess, not to worry though, we have made it easy. Give us a call or fill out our form to let our system crunch the numbers for you.

Q: How do I know if my halyard or sheets are due for replacement? 

A: Look for signs of wear and tear such as fraying, kinking, or stretching. If the line feels stiff or brittle, it may be time to replace it. Additionally, if you notice any damage to the sheave or winch, this may also indicate the need for a replacement. See the checklist above for detailed instructions.

Q: Are there any safety precautions I should take when using halyards and sheets?

A: Yes, it’s important to properly understand how to use a winch and don’t wrap the rope around your arm or fingers. Always be aware of your surroundings and avoid getting entangled in halyards or other lines. It’s also recommended to have a backup halyard in case of failure or emergency situations.

Q: How can halyards affect the performance of a sailboat?

A: The type of halyard used can have an impact on the performance of the sailboat. For instance, a stretchy halyard may cause the sail to lose its shape by releasing the tension on the sail over time, while a stretch-resistant halyard can help the sail maintain its shape in strong winds.

Q: Is it possible to splice or repair a damaged halyard or sheet?

A: It is possible to splice or repair a damaged halyard, depending on the extent of the damage and the material of the halyard. However, it’s essential to have the repair done by a professional or experienced sailor to ensure the halyard’s continued reliability and safety.

Q: How often should I replace my lines?

A: The lifespan of halyards and sheets can vary depending on factors such as usage, exposure to weather, and material. It’s recommended to regularly inspect your lines for wear and tear and replace them as needed. Condition is a much stronger indicator than age. Assuming light use and good condition, some materials like Stirotex have a longer lifespan, other materials may need to be replaced more often. In general, halyards and sheets should be replaced every 3-5 years for optimal safety and efficiency.

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Practical Sailors Guide to Choosing Cost-Efficient Halyard Materials

Practical sailor testers evaluate the many cordage choices available for both furling sail halyards and conventional sail halyards, with a look at the different rope fibers out there and a specific focus on cost vs. line stretch..

Sail performance is directly affected by the type and condition of your halyards. Upgrading your halyards to a low-stretch fiber helps ensure youre getting the sails full power, and it can add life your sails. After testing a sampling of lines from New England Ropes, Novatech Braids, Samson Rope, and Yale Cordage, Practical Sailor found that line stretch decreases significantly as cost increases. And while the very-low- to no-stretch high-tech lines often come with through-the-roof prices, there are low-stretch halyard options available for the budget-minded sailor. This article offers a line cost vs. line stretch analysis and an overview of the fibers available. UV resistance and other factors like abrasion resistance and ease of splicing will be the subject of future tests on these halyard materials.

                                                   ****

While considerable development continues in the realm of high-tech, high-budget halyards, cruising sailors and club racers face a variety of choices but few new products since our last comprehensive halyard comparison (“For All-Rope Halyards, Its Hard to Beat New England Ropes Sta-Set,” December 1997). One recent addition to the range is VPC, from New England Ropes, which brings the low-stretch, low-creep characteristics of Vectran into an affordable upgrade from polyester double braid. Creep is a fibers taffy-like gradual elongation over time while under a static tensile load, and given how most sailors today are relying on at least one permanently hoisted sail, this factor will likely come into play.

Over the last decade or so, the large production-boat builders have found that more than 80 percent of new-boat buyers are choosing in-mast furling mainsails on boats 30 feet and longer. These boats all have roller-furling headsails, too, so the selection of halyard material is simplified somewhat: The halyards for these sails are rarely handled, so “hand” becomes a less-important quality to consider.

Another attribute, though, becomes more important: durability under load. The working end of the halyard spends its life under tension, bent around a sheave at the masthead. Because the sail remains aloft indefinitely, the halyard is rarely inspected, and must be trusted to perform without supervision throughout a season, or longer, if the boat is sailed year-round. All of these lines, except the Amsteel, have polyester covers, so one can expect similar service lives.

For sailors who have conventional sails and use the halyards on a regular basis, hand remains important. So too does the lines willingness to run free without snagging. And these sailors have plenty of opportunities to inspect the line for wear at its critical points.

Clutch slippage is also a factor. In last years rope clutch test (“ Clutch Play ,” April 2006), we used three of the halyards featured in this comparison. Subjected to 400-pound loads in two of our preferred clutches, the Lewmar D2 (the easiest to bleed) and the Spinlock XAS (the best gripping), Yales Vizzion proved to hold the best (average slippage 3/8-inch), followed by Samson Warpspeed (13/32-inch) and New England Ropes Sta-Set (7/16-inch). We will be looking at all these halyards clutch performance in a future test.

Regardless of sail type or deck gear, one factor always affects the choice of line for any halyard, and that is stretch. When the goal is to get the best performance out of a sail, its halyard should stretch as little as possible when it comes under additional load from a freshening breeze or sailing closer to the wind. When a halyard stretches, it allows the sail fabric to move aft. The draft of the sail moves with it. This results in the driving force rotating aft, creating more heeling moment and more weather helm. The boat is sailing less efficiently than it could, and you may be forced to reef earlier than you otherwise would.

As its fabric pulls aft, a sail on a mast track will scallop between the slides, and horizontal wrinkles will form at the slides. Apart from looking unseamanlike and making life less pleasant aboard, this also puts uneven stress on the sail fabric, which could&emdash;depending on how much sailing you do under these conditions&emdash;shorten its useful life.

So, heres another reason to renew your halyards, and perhaps even upgrade them: to save wear and tear on your sails.

Ironically, a cruising-boat owners budget is often expended on comforts and electronics, while the sails, which one would suppose are the boats reason for existing in the first place, get short shrift. When it finally comes time to specify the halyards and running rigging, the pot is empty. Ultimately, for the sake of a hundred dollars saved on a halyard, the owner never sees the full performance he paid for in his new sail.

For an average boat in the mid-30-foot range, a new mainsail can cost from $2,000 upward, and the premium for a “performance” mainsail over a basic Dacron model starts at about $500. Anyone investing that much would be well advised to hoist it on a halyard that does it justice. For about $100 over the cost of a basic polyester double braid, halyard stretch can be reduced by 75 percent, and the sail will be better able to deliver its promised performance.

By the same token, if you have an aging sail thats rather stretchy along the luff, you could eke another season or two out of it while you save up for a new one by spending a couple of hundred dollars on a less stretchy halyard. The halyard you bought will still be good for the new sail a few years down the road.

Another benefit of a low-stretch halyard is that it reduces effort in the cockpit. Trim-conscious sailors will find they have to make fewer adjustments to the halyard to keep the draft where they want it.

How We Tested

For this article, we looked exclusively at the cost/stretch aspect of new halyards. The Stretch to Cost Table on page 14 shows quite dramatically how great the benefit is for an additional investment that is really quite small, relative to the cost of a new sail. While we specifically looked at a main halyard, the results apply equally to a jib halyard for the same reasons.

For our comparison, to keep the math simple, our hypothetical test boat was somewhere around 35 feet, with a mainsail luff length of 40 feet. Running the halyard back to the cockpit, we assumed 50 feet of line between the winch and the head of the fully hoisted sail. Again for simplicity, we assumed a halyard load of 1,000 pounds, which is a reasonable maximum to expect the mainsail to exert on it&emdash;after that, its time to reef. (Once reefed, stretch resistance becomes even more important on a conventional sail, because the exposed halyard is now longer by the depth of the reef. When a luff-furling sail is reefed, adjusting halyard tension is pointless.)

For each sample of cordage we examined, we took the manufacturer-supplied stretch characteristics and calculated the stretch in inches that would result from our 1,000-pound load acting on the 50-foot standing part of the halyard. To simplify the pricing, we assumed buying 100 feet of line to provide an ample tail in the cockpit and enough extra length to allow “freshening the nip” a few times over the halyards life.

Our baseline rope was double-braid polyester, 7/16-inch in diameter. This kept our assumed 1,000-pound load at no more than 15 percent of the lines average breaking strength. A smaller diameter would probably suffice in the real world, but it would stretch more, precisely the opposite of what were trying to achieve.

The resulting graph of inches of stretch plotted against cost produced a dramatic curve, from which its quite obvious that the first $100 you spend over the basic polyester double-braid halyard buys a significant reduction in stretch. We should note that the values used for stretch are interpolated from data provided by the manufacturers in their literature or on their websites. While they may not be precise, we are confident that they reliably illustrate the argument. We intend to do our own testing on all of these lines, including stretch, to be reported on in a future issue.

The prices used in the graph are the lowest prices we found for each product. While researching these, we were reminded of how important it is to shop around. The price sources we used, and they are by no means exhaustive, appear in the “PS Value Guide Halyards” at left.

Learning the Ropes

The fibers commonly used in the products we studied are polyester, ultra-high-molecular weight polyethyline (UHMPE, sometimes written UHMWPE), para-aramids, and liquid-crystal polyester polyarylate (LCP). Polyolefin (polypropylene) is also used to add bulk to some fiber combinations.

This side of the Atlantic, polyester is usually known by its Dupont trade name, Dacron. It is inexpensive (relatively), has good tensile strength, and resists degradation by UV light, but it has a low Youngs Modulus (meaning, its stretchy). Compared to 7×19 stainless-steel wire, which was commonly used in the past for halyards, its very stretchy.

UHMPE comes under two common brand names, Spectra and Dyneema. Each of these has variants, but thats beyond the scope of this article. UHMPE has high strength and low stretch, which in combination with its generally good resistance to UV makes it well suited to halyards.

Para-aramids include Kevlar, Technora, and Twaron, variations on a molecular theme from different manufacturers. They exhibit similar strength to UHMPE at a lower price, but the trade-off is theyre not totally happy bending, they don’t perform well under abrasion, and they don’t stand up to sunlight as well. In sailing applications, they are usually found protected by a covering of some sort, except when they are the protection&emdash;against the heat generated when highly loaded lines are blown off a winch.

Vectran is the only LCP found in marine rope. It has high strength, low stretch, and better abrasion resistance than the para-aramids. It is far less susceptible to creep that UHMPE, and for that reason, it is useful when under standing loads. It, too, needs protection from UV.

Polyolefin, sometimes listed as MFP, is an inexpensive fiber used to bulk up small volumes of high-tech fibers to increase diameter and improve “hand.” It is basically polypropylene, and used by itself, appears in ski-tow ropes and on life-saving equipment. Its light, and it floats, but it doesn’t stand up to UV light.

Plotting Price vs. Stretch

Plotting cost against stretch using the same 1,000-pound load on a range of ropes produces a very clear picture of what youre buying. (For loads other than our 1,000 pounds, scaling up or down should produce the same relationship between stretch and cost.) You can almost halve the stretch by simply upgrading from 7/16-inch Sta-Set to the same size in Sta-Set X. Going up another level (see rope list) halves the stretch again, even with a reduction to 3/8-inch diameter to reduce cost. As stretch approaches zero, cost goes through the roof, but thats of little consequence even to the serious club racer, because several choices lie within a reasonable price point.

One way to use the graph would be to pick a maximum cost youd be comfortable with and look at the individual plots to the left of that number. Youll find that some of them are higher-tenacity material at smaller diameters. We figured 5/16-inch (8 millimeters) is as small as is comfortable to handle. Depending on your boats current winches, rope clutches, and sheaves, these may not work for you.

We included one single-braid line, Amsteel, simply for comparison. If youre tempted to go that route, you should consult a rigger about covering it so that it can lock properly in stoppers.

UV resistance and other factors like abrasion resistance and ease of splicing will be the subject of future tests on these halyard materials.

Conclusions

When it comes to making your decision, you will have to take into account factors beyond dollars and stretch&emdash;nothings simple. And until we do further testing, any definitive recommendations would be premature. Nonetheless, using the accompanying tables you should be able to find a good halyard that best meets your requirements and budget.

First: What size and type of line do you currently have? If this is original equipment, the entire halyard system may have been designed around it, from the masthead sheaves to the turning blocks at the base of the mast, to the clutch on the cabin top. Before electing to go down a size, or even two, in line diameter, you need to be sure this wont trigger a cascade of modifications necessary to accommodate it.

If you had wire, you will have to change the masthead sheaves to suit any synthetic line (and those sheaves are probably due for replacement anyway). Sheaves grooved for wire will make short work of a synthetic replacement. The higher high-tech lines, such as the 12-strand, single-braid Dyneema or Spectra (Amsteel, for example), work best under high loads in a sheave with a flatter-profile groove. The line flattens, reducing the difference in tension between the inner and outer fibers. Double-braid lines, which are the most suited to cruisers and casual racers anyway, are less fussy.

Going down a size in diameter will help your halyard systems efficiency by reducing internal friction as it turns around the now relatively larger sheaves. Most rope manufacturers specify a sheave-to-line-diameter ratio of 8:1 for optimal performance, but you rarely see this in many production-boat setups.

Going down two sizes, from 7/16-inch to 5/16-inch, will certainly get you into the high-tech material within your budget, but you may not get the stretch savings you hoped for. Also, you may find your stoppers wont accommodate the line.

Check the range of sizes your clutch or stopper will handle. If it will accommodate a size smaller than your present halyard, you can move up to a higher tenacity fiber core for better performance and down in diameter, and still gain the low-stretch advantage.

If you have permanently hoisted sails, you might want to look at a low-creep fiber for the halyards. This usually means a Vectran blend, and therefore more expense, but you wont suffer from gradual loss in luff tension as the season goes by. Because your sail is either all the way up or off the boat, the fall of the halyard, the part that would be hung on the mast or wherever when the sail is up, doesn’t have to be high-tech. A good rigger will be able to combine a single-braid standing part with a cover-only tail, saving both weight aloft and money.

Make sure you make both the tail and standing part long enough to permit freshening the nip a few times. Where the halyard sits on the masthead sheave, it will wear, and it will be exposed to ultraviolet (UV) light. Regular inspection, and cutting off and replacing the splice once in a while should prevent an untimely failure.

All of the lines discussed here can be spliced, but their differing constructions will dictate just what type of splice to use. Splice required is listed in the Value Guide, with additional information available on the manufacturers websites. Most of the suppliers also offer splicing services, and depending on line size and splice complexity, $15 to $30 seems like a bargain when measured against frustration most of us part-time riggers will suffer should we attempt the job ourselves.

• Practical Sailor Halyard Lines Value Guide
• Stretching Dollars
• Splice-Ability

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

So why is the plot of price vs. strech included?

Where are the “accompanying tables” ?

To Karen- The tables are in the Also With this Article links at the bottom. To Darrell- Your pricing guide is really out of date. APS does not exist anymore. Hall Spars does not appear to sell line. DR Marine does not sell Portland Braid. The prices seem way out of date. Novabraid Polyspec was extremely hard to find online which raises concerns about it. I found it from The Chandlery Online for $1.69/ft.

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Line has come a long way in the past few decades, and current options offer great value and performance. We offer a variety of h igh tech Lines, which generally feature a non-stretch core for strength, durable cruising lines, which are typically polyester and less expensive but still strong and durable, or Dyneema, Spectra, & Vectran for non-stretch control line, halyard, and sheet applications. Shockcord bungee and floating Polypropylene also available. Scroll down this page for recommendations for line material based on your boat size and application.

• Shop by Line Type

Shop By Diameter

West Coast Sailing carries over 80 different lines from 6 of the best rope manufacturers in diameters ranging from 1mm all the way up to 12mm. Use our handy category filters to narrow in on the specific diameter of lines that work for your application, and then pick the one that meets your exact criteria for performance, color, or price.

• Shop by Line Diameter

Additional Line Options & Services

In addition to per foot line, pre cut line, line kits, and custom rigging, West Coast Sailing also offers mini spools, splicing equipment, and custom rigging services. If you can dream it, our team can build it! 

• Shop Mini Spools
• Shop Splicing Tools
• Shop Custom Rigging

Line Fiber Type / Material Guide

Line Application Guide - Dinghy

Line Application Guide - Racing

Line Application Guide - Performance Cruising

Line Diameter Guide

Recommended Diameter by Application & Boat Length

If you are replacing an existing line, the easiest way to determine what diameter you need is to match what you already have. This can be done with a caliper or by close estimation with a tape measure. For example, if you've previously used a 7mm halyard and it has performed well, another 7mm line is likely a great choice. In most applications, there is some flexibility in the exact diameter that can be used. Most blocks, for example, have an 'ideal' diameter (ie, the line diameter that runs most effectively though the block's sheave) but also have a range so that you can run a slightly thinner or slightly thicker line. If you have a halyard that is getting hung up in your rig, stepping down 1-2mm might help the halyard run more efficiently. If you have a larger boat or rig and want to run a thinner halyard, consider a double braid line that features a Dyneema or Spectra core for strength. A similar approach can be applied to replacing sheets, control lines, and other line on your sailboat.

Double Braid vs Single Braid

Two terms you will often see in line descriptions are 'double braid' and 'single braid', which refer to the way the line is constructed. At the most basic level, a double braid line has a cover and a core whereas a single braid does not, but there are other important distinctions to consider when making a line selection.

Single Braids  are made up of either 8 or 12 strands that are braided into a circular pattern, half clockwise and half counter clockwise. This produces a line that is supple, absorbs twists, and tends not to kink. There are two types of single braid lines: performance single braids and polyester/blended single braids. Performance single braids are made from fibers with very low stretch and designed to handle extreme loads - think Dyneema, Spectra, or Vectran. Polyester/blended single braids, sometimes called hollow braid, are soft and easy to grip, built for sheets and hand-adjusted control lines. These are less common than performance single braid lines but recommended in a few specific applications.

Double Braids , sometimes called braid on braid, have a braided core within a braided outer jacket or cover. This creates a strong, durable, smooth-running line that is easy to handle. Double braids are used for the vast majority of all running rigging on sailboats including sheets, halyards and control lines for both cruising or racing. There are two types to consider: polyester double braids and high-tech double braids. Polyester double braids, found most commonly on recreational and cruising sailboats, have a polyester cover with polyester core. These are low maintenance, affordable, and long-lasting, while offering relatively low stretch and high working loads. For additional strength and minimal stretch, consider high-tech double braids. These lines typically feature a Dyneema or Spectra core (non-stretch) inside a polyester or polyester/dyneema blend cover for additional durability. They are more expensive but often the go to choice for high performance racing boats.

Sailing Programs & Clubs - West Coast Sailing offers special program pricing on purchases for sailing programs, yacht clubs, and community sailing organizations. Visit our YC & Program Purchasing  page for more details.

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• Rigging & Marine

RIGGING SUPPLY YOU CAN DEPEND ON

US Rigging Offers Halyards & Sailing Lines

Are you looking to replace some old rigging ropes on your boat? Did you just win the lottery and buy a new yacht? Need a mast rope? How about a flagpole rope? US Rigging has been manufacturing and distributing rigging materials for decades now. It probably goes without saying that we know a few things about ropes and sailing lines are no exception. We have provided some basic info on some things you may want to think about when shopping for a halyard.

Scroll down and see if we can teach you a thing or two about Halyards and Sailing Lines.

What Exactly Is A Halyard?

A halyard is a line that is used in sailing or boating for various functions. It may simply be a flagpole rope, or it could be used to raise sails or spars. These ropes often include polyester materials and are typically designed to give very low stretch or elongation.

Some Other Terms Used For Halyard:

• Sailing Line

What Are Some Factors To Consider In Choosing A Halyard?

Now that we have established what a halyard is, let’s break down a few things you will want to look out for when choosing your sailing line. When you are choosing a halyard, there are many different things you want to think about. In most cases, the most important features that you will be looking for are ropes that offer resistance to extreme abrasion. Aside from looking for a solid core, the additional covering can allow for more protection from wear. Often you will also want to look for ropes with higher diameters. If you are using a clutch, you will want to get pretty close to the maximum diameter of rope that the clutch will accept.

Here’s A Few General Rules:

• Halyards Should Almost Always Be Low Stretch
• Ropes With Increased Abrasion Resistance Are Ideal
• Sailing Lines Should Be Close To The Maximum Diameter A Clutch Will Accept

What Are Some Types Of Halyard Ropes For Sailboats?

After talking in general terms about some of the things you want to be looking for in your halyards, let’s talk a little about different types of lines that are available. US Rigging offers two general different types of sailing lines - Wire To Rope Lines and Spinnaker Lanyards.

Wire To Rope Lines are more generalized, multipurpose halyards. They are often used to replace old halyards on boats. The wire core offers a lower stretch in the rope, making it ideal for boating applications. The rope cover provides a softer grip which makes handling the line easier and more comfortable.

Spinnaker Halyards are designed for more specific applications where a spinnaker is going to be used. Spinnakers are a style of sale, which are also sometimes called chutes or kites. These sails balloon out when they fill up with wind.

Spinnaker Halyards

As mentioned above, a spinnaker is a type of sail that is used for “off wind” sailing. It is designed to balloon out in the wind. As one may assume, a Spinnaker Halyard is a line that is used specifically for rigging with a spinnaker sail.

Here Are Some Features Of Spinnaker Sailing Lines:

• High Strength
• Low Stretch/Elongation
• Double Braided Polyester Cover
• Resistant To Water, Mold, And Mildew
• Tough Core Made Of High Tech Dacron Polyethylene
• Include A Stainless Steel Swivel Shackle And Snaphook

Wire To Rope Halyards

Wire To Rope Halyards is used as general-purpose lines in boating. They offer very low stretch with their core made of Dacron Polyethylene Materials and are hand-spliced to maintain rope strength.

Here Are Some Features Of Wire To Rope Halyards:

• Highly Flexible
• Includes A Stainless Steel Thimble
• Hand Spliced To Maintain Rope Strength
• Commonly Use To Replace Old Halyards

Who Is US Rigging?

US Rigging is a manufacturer and master distributor of climbing ropes, fall protection equipment, and industrial rigging equipment located in Santa Ana, California. This Orange County-based company is proud to provide American Made products with both safety and service in mind. US Rigging has a legacy lasting over 40 years and is known for its operational excellence.

US Rigging offers a select variety of halyards and sailing lines designed specifically for boating applications. These include both halyards designed specifically for spinnakers and more generally use wire to rope sailing lines. These low stretch, high strength ropes are made with high tech Dacron polyethylene materials to ensure lines are tougher than they need to be.

Take a look around the product lines available and feel free to contact our customer service department with any questions. US Rigging is committed to excellence in service and providing our customers with the best rigging products on the market.

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