yacht cruising chute

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Tri-Radial Cruising Chute

£ 390.60 – £ 5,257.98

25 sizes to fit dayboats to superyachts, in a choice of colours

Description

• Reviews (0)

E-Sails Tri-Radial Cruising Chutes are a super easy-to-use design, their flying shape is optimised for a broad range of reaching angles, so they will greatly enhance your downwind sailing pleasure and boat speed. They can be hoisted from a Launch Bag like a spinnaker – or they can be used with a Snuffer (both items are available separately, and through this site).

E-Sails Tri-Radial Cruising Chutes are available in a range of standard sizes that will suit many yacht and rig sizes. They are available as either Single or Two colour options, choose colour preference when ordering.

Colours available for either the Main body colour or the Stripe are: Red, White, Blue, Grey and Yellow.

They are Tri-Radial in Layout, meaning they have horizontal panels across the centre and the corner panels all Radiate inwards, so that the sheet loads are running directly along the fibres, unlike the more basic Spinnaker layouts, such as Cross-Cut and Radial Head designs. (When the fibres aren’t loaded along their threads, permanent fabric shape distortion can occur).

Material is 1.5oz Ripstop Nylon – which is an ideal weight for most cruising yachts and for most wind conditions.

The Sails feature Leech and Foot tapes and Pressed Rings on Tack, Clew and Head.

The sail is supplied in a Nylon Bag, and they are suitable for use with Snuffers.

CHOOSING THE SIZE:

We recommend that you choose a Cruising Chute with a Luff Length that is equal (or about 98%) of your measured (SFL) distance. i.e. From your Spinnaker Halyard’s maximum Hoist position, down to the Cruising Chute’s Tack attachment point (ordinarily this will be about the same as your yacht’s quoted Forestay Length (FL). If you plan to use a Snuffer or a Furler, then deduct another 0.5m from SFL to allow room.

MEASURING THE SFL: This distance can be measured most easily with a surveyor’s tape measure hoisted on the Spinnaker Halyard. Alternatively, you can hoist a stretchless rope, mark the length carefully and measure that. The Cruising Chute will have a curved Luff profile and so there will be a room in the Luff to tension it.

CALCULATING THE SFL: The (SFL) is the Hypotenuse of yacht’s given I & J measurement (see diagram below)

Hypotenuse = The square root of I squared + J squared

e.g. therefore with I – 8.9m, J – 2.3m

Hyp(SFL) = the square root of (8.9 x 8.9) + (2.3 x 2.3)

Hyp(SFL) = the square root of (79.21) + (5.29)

Hyp(SFL) = the square root of (84.5)

Hyp(SFL) = 9.19m

So, choose a SAIL LUFF of approx. 9.0m (or 8.5m with a Snuffer).

(For peace of mind, the Luff Length will nearly always be very close to the I dimension).

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Hoist the tape measure up using the genoa halyard attached to the head swivel and the tape attached to the sails normal attachment point (make sure to add a length of light line so you can get it back down again without relying on the tape alone!). Hoist all the way to the top – effectively the absolute maximum hoist distance – and measure to the tack attachment shackle, and make note of this dimension.

For the sail luff length, make a 2% deduction – so if the max hoist is 10000mm 2% = 200mm so sail length will be 9800mm. This deduction allows for the head and tack webbings and potential stretch so it puts the head swivel in the optimum spot for furling. On furling sails (mains and genoas) we fit soft webbing loops at the head and tack, these are around 50-60mm long each.

Navigating the Seas: A Guide to Sailing, Chutes and Techniques

• Navigating the Seas: A Comprehensive Guide to Sailing, Cruising Chutes, and Advanced Techniques

Sailing, a harmonious dance between wind and water, offers a world of adventure for enthusiasts. At the heart of this maritime artistry lies the cruising chute—a sail that propels sailors into the realm of downwind delights. In this guide, we'll navigate through the intricacies of sailing, uncovering the magic of cruising chutes, exploring genoa sails, and mastering advanced techniques that elevate your sailing prowess.

Sailing Downwind Basics

Understanding the fundamentals of downwind sailing is the first step to unlocking the full potential of your vessel. As the wind pushes your boat from behind, the cruising chute takes center stage, capturing the breeze and transforming it into forward momentum. This section will delve into the nuances of downwind sailing, providing insights to make your sailing experience smooth and exhilarating.

The Role of Genoa Sails

Genoa sails, larger cousins to jibs, play a pivotal role in maximizing sail area and power. We embark on a journey to explore these expansive sails, understanding how they contribute to the overall efficiency of your boat, especially when sailing close to the wind.

Navigating Upwind

Upwind sailing, a different challenge altogether, demands a nuanced understanding of wind angles and sail adjustments. We demystify the intricacies of sailing against the wind , offering insights that empower sailors to navigate diverse wind conditions confidently.

Goose Wing Sailing Technique

Mastering the goose wing sailing technique adds finesse to your sailing repertoire. By setting sails on opposite sides of the boat, mimicking the outstretched wings of a goose, sailors achieve optimal sail exposure to the wind. This section provides practical tips for mastering this elegant and effective technique.

Managing Genoa Roll

Rolling the genoa effectively is an essential skill for any sailor. We offer valuable tips and techniques to ensure smooth transitions between different sailing conditions, enhancing your control and comfort on the water.

The Yacht Pole

Unveiling the yacht pole—a versatile component positioned in the middle of a sailboat. We explore its various functions, from supporting sails like the cruising chute to providing stability and aiding in sail management during various sailing conditions.

Wind Chutes on Sailboats

Decoding the mystery of wind chutes, also known as cruising chutes, adds flair to your sailing adventures. This section explores their design and purpose, providing insights into how these specialized sails can enhance your overall sailing experience.

Sailing Pole Nomenclature

What is the pole on a sailboat called? This section clarifies the nomenclature associated with sailing poles, ensuring sailors are well-versed in the terminology used in the maritime world.

The Allure of the Other Side

"The flies are always tastier on the other side." In the context of sailing, this metaphor holds a profound truth. We delve into the psychological aspects of exploring new horizons in sailing, inviting sailors to embrace the allure of the unknown.

Spinnaker vs. Gennaker

Is there a difference between a spinnaker and a gennaker ? This section provides a comprehensive comparison, helping sailors choose the right sail for their specific needs and conditions.

Sailing with Jib Only

Sailing with only a jib has its own set of advantages and challenges. We discuss the pros and cons of this technique, empowering sailors to make informed decisions based on their sailing goals and preferences.

Read more useful sailing tips:

Skippered boats: how to choose a boat, skippered boats: how to pack for a yachting holiday, boat rental with skipper: everyone can go to sea, skippered boats: myths about sailing, sail from lefkada for 14 days. where to, what not to miss when visiting lefkada, skippered boats: step-by-step boat rental, where and why to sail from lefkas marina, don’t panic: handling maritime emergencies, one sheet sailboat technique.

Simplifying sailing with one sheet—this technique streamlines sail control, making it more accessible for beginners. We provide insights into how this approach can enhance your sailing experience, especially for those new to the art of sailing.

The Versatility of Multi-Purpose Sails

Explore the benefits and considerations of multi-purpose sails that adapt to various wind conditions. This section highlights the versatility of these sails, offering a practical guide for sailors seeking flexibility in their sailing endeavors.

Mastering Cruising Chutes

How do you effectively use a cruising chute? This section provides a step-by-step guide, ensuring that sailors can harness the full potential of this specialized sail, adding grace and speed to their downwind adventures.

Read our top notch articles on topics such as sailing, sailing tips and destinations in our  Magazine.

Furling Cruising Chutes

Furling cruising chutes offer convenience and ease of use. We explore the benefits of this technology and considerations for sailors looking to invest in this practical sailing accessory, making downwind sailing more accessible.

Direct Sailing Techniques

Efficient and direct routes are essential for reaching your destination promptly. This section provides insights into direct sailing techniques, optimizing your routes for maximum efficiency and enjoyment.

Navigating Dead Goose Cradle

Understanding the term "dead goose cradle" is crucial for sailors navigating specific wind conditions. We demystify this concept, providing clarity on its implications for your sailing experience and how to navigate it effectively.

Dead Downwind Sailing

Sailing dead downwind presents unique challenges and opportunities. This section discusses the techniques and considerations for navigating this specific point of sail, enhancing your skills and confidence on the water.

Center of Effort in Sailing

Controlling the center of effort is fundamental for sail balance. We explore the importance of this concept and how sailors can effectively manage the center of effort for optimal performance, especially in varying wind conditions.

Catch the Wind in Your Sails

Maximizing sail efficiency involves understanding how to catch the wind effectively. This section provides tips and techniques for ensuring your sails capture the maximum wind energy, optimizing your sailing experience.

Second Wind Sails

Unveiling the concept of second wind sails, an innovative idea to harness additional wind for enhanced speed and efficiency. We explore the potential benefits and considerations for sailors seeking an extra boost on their voyages.

Spinnaker Chute Insights

Handling the spinnaker chute requires skill and precision. This section offers valuable insights and tips for effectively managing the spinnaker chute, enhancing your overall sailing experience and confidence in handling this specialized sail.

In the vast sea of sailing knowledge, mastering the intricacies of sails and sailing techniques is an ongoing journey. Whether you're a novice or an experienced sailor, these insights into cruising chutes, genoa sails, and various sailing techniques aim to enrich your understanding and elevate your time on the water.

So what are you waiting for? Take a look at our  range of charter boats  and head to some of our favourite  sailing  destinations .

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What is a Cruising Chute?

10 October 2017

A cruising chute is primarily the same as a gennaker or asymmetric spinnaker. However, cruising chutes tend to be a little easier to handle than a racing asymmetric sail and in many cases they are more modest in size and are cut a little more conservatively.

Like gennakers and Asymmetric kites, cruising chutes are triangular, made of lightweight material and, as the name suggests, they are not cut symmetrically, meaning that they have a permanent luff, leach, tack and clew.

Many cruising chutes are fitted with a ‘snuffer’ which is a large lightweight nylon sock that is pulled up with a dedicated line once the chute has been hoisted. When you want to drop the chute you simply turn onto a deep broad reach, hoist or unfurl your headsail and then depower the cruising chute’s working sheet. Then you pull on the ‘snuffer line’ which pulls the snuffer down and over the sail, thus depowering it and collecting it ready for the ease of the halyard. Make sure you don’t lose the snuffer line after the hoist!

Cruising chutes can usually be flown either off a tack line run along the deck to the bow and then run through a block or sometimes they may be flown off a tack line at the end of a bowsprit.

Related article:

• What is a Spinnaker?
• What is the difference between a symmetric and asymmetric spinnaker?

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Practical Boat Owner

• Digital edition

How to rig a spinnaker on a small yacht – what you need and where to fit it

• David Harding
• October 29, 2015

David Harding helps a PBO reader figure out how to rig a spinnaker on her Contessa 26 - part of the PBO Sail Clinic series.

Jo Mooring Aldridge has had a cruising chute on her Contessa 26, Sulali , for years. But she has hardly used it, because it only flies happily with the apparent wind on or a few points abaft the beam.

Her solution was to buy a spinnaker. That was the easy part. Next, she started thinking about everything else she had to buy and fit.

Kit for a kite

All you need with a cruising chute is a halyard, a means of attaching – and, preferably, adjusting – the tack strop, a couple of sheets, and a block on or near each quarter.

A spinnaker is more complex. You will need:

■ A pole and an attachment point on the mast for its inboard end. You can attach the pole to a fixed ring, though it’s better to have one that can slide up and down on a track. The pole should be fitted with a pair of bridles for the uphaul and downhaul, and it will need somewhere to live on deck when not in use.

■ An uphaul (topping lift) and a downhaul. The uphaul runs through a sheave or a block on the mast, normally at about spreader height on a boat with a single-spreader rig.

It can then be run aft if you want to adjust it from the cockpit. On a boat of the Contessa’s size, the downhaul can be led to a point just ahead of the mast, as it is on dinghies; larger boats will need the block further forward, to provide a more vertical pull.

■ Sheets and guys Boats up to 30ft (9m) or so usually have a single set of sheets rather than sheets and lazy guys, because they’re seldom under enough load to present difficulties during gybes. Instead of lazy guys, you find barber haulers, alternatively called tweakers or twinning lines. Barber haulers deflect the guy (which becomes the sheet on the other tack) downwards and outwards to the point of maximum beam, thereby increasing the angle between pole and guy for a more effective pull.

Each barber hauler consists of a relatively light block through which the sheet is roven before passing through the turning block on the quarter. Snatch blocks are ideal, because they can be snapped on and off. A line attached to the block passes through another block which is fixed as far outboard and as close to the point of maximum beam as possible. The line needs to be long enough not to deflect the (leeward) sheet on any point of sailing. From the toerail, it should be led to a cleat within easy reach of the cockpit.

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Fixing the kit

Jo was already part-way there with Sulali, because she had the spinnaker, the sheets, the halyard, the pole, and the track on the mast with a ring. The halyard ran through a block at the masthead and then down the outside to a winch; nothing could be simpler. Most masts on new boats come with the necessary provisions for a spinnaker halyard, but if yours doesn’t, you may want to call in a rigger. Shackling a block to the masthead is one thing; cutting through the mast wall and inserting a sheave box is a job many people would rather leave to an expert.

1. Feeding a mouse line through the uphaul sheave

2. Jeremy removed the old T-tracks from the gunwales…

3. …and put plenty of sealant around the screw holes…

4. …before positioning the new sections of track from Barton

5. Fortunately, most of the holes lined up with those used for the old tracks…

6. …but sometimes Jeremy had to drill at an angle to avoid the screw securing the toerail

7. The deck eye and cam cleat for the downhaul by the mast came next

8. In the cockpit, Jeremy worked out the position for the clutch that would handle the roller reefing line

9. The barber-hauler lines would also need a fair lead to the winch after passing through the cam cleats on the coaming. Securing fittings to the coamings was easy because we could reach the inside from the quarter berths

10.  How it works in practice: the loose line on the primary winch is the sheet of the furled genoa. The barber-hauler passes through the forward block on the track and is led back to the cleat on the outside of the coaming. The genoa’s roller reefing line is held in the clutch, and the spinnaker guy is around the aftermost winch

11. To allow the Harken ratchet blocks to rotate freely, we attached them with short strops. Bungy cord taken around the pulpit stops them hitting the deck when not in use

12. Although the downhaul is cleated by the mast, a long tail means that it can be adjusted from the comfort of the cockpit.

13. The track for the  pole attachment on the mast allows about 3ft (1m) of travel. It couldn’t go any lower because of the mainsail’s roller reefing handle

14. We tied the uphaul and downhaul bridles around the pole, using the eyes to stop the line sliding rather than to take the weight

Reeving the uphaul

A similar situation applies with the pole uphaul. The least you need is a block shackled to an eye on the mast, but an internal system is neater. On Sulali, the mast was fitted with an uphaul sheave just below the spreaders and an exit sheave at deck level. The mouse line had broken, so I went up the mast, removed the sheave box and dropped a new line down with a large washer on the end. Then I removed the lower sheave box and fished out the mouse before pulling through the 6mm uphaul line.

The pole came next. We riveted eyes to the top and bottom at each end before making bridles with pre-stretched 5mm line and stainless steel rings. The line for the upper bridle passed around the pole and through the eyes on the bottom, which would be subjected merely to the deflection loads instead of taking the full weight of the uphaul.

Hardware choices

We chose most of the rest of the hardware from Barton’s catalogue; blocks, deck eyes and cam cleats. To make life as easy as possible, I suggested that Jo buy a pair of ratchet blocks for the sheets. The extra price compared with plain blocks is well worth paying, because a ratchet makes an enormous difference. Barton doesn’t make ratchet blocks, so we got them from Harken.

Other items on our list from Barton included two, 5ft (1.52m) lengths of 20mm T track and a pair of genoa slides. As on all Contessa 26s, the blocks for Sulali’s headsail sheets were attached to tracks on the wooden toerail. The obvious place for the barber hauler blocks was on the same tracks, but the section was of obscure Dutch origin and we could find no slides to fit it.

Help from a pro

Since Jo keeps Sulali in Lymington, it seemed sensible to enlist the help of Jeremy Rogers in fitting the hardware. Jeremy built the Contessa 26 for many years and now undertakes restorations and refits at his yard in Milford-on-Sea, just down the road. He also sailed his own 26, Rosina of Beaulieu, to overall victory in last year’s Round-the-Island race.

Removing the old genoa tracks was simply a matter of lifting them off, having removed the screws that secured them to the toerail. Before fitting the replacements, Jeremy applied a generous daub of sealant around the holes to make sure no water could get into the wood, though the spacing of the holes in the Barton track meant that not all the original holes in the toerail could be used. Jeremy had to drill some new ones – which was easy enough, except in a couple of places each side when the holes in the track were directly above the screws that secured the toerail to the bulwarks.

His solution was to drill at an angle from the vertical so the screw he was about to put in would diverge from the one that was in the way. By the time the new one was screwed in tight, the fact that the head was slightly askew could hardly be noticed.

Deck eye for the downhaul

Once the tracks were secured, we looked at the best position for the deck eye to which the downhaul block was to be shackled. We had already agreed that Jo would adjust the uphaul and downhaul from on deck, since none of the other control lines on Sulali were led aft, so we put the eye just ahead of the mast and the cam cleat further aft on the mast’s port side. Before drilling holes in the deck, it’s important to make sure that any lines will have a fair lead and can easily be adjusted.

The headliner moulding and the deckhead are solidly bonded around the foot of the mast on the Contessa 26, so Jeremy fastened the eye using bolts long enough to go through both laminates. For the cam cleat, it was simply a question of putting a couple of machine screws into the thick deck moulding by the mast step. Other boats may present more of a challenge – especially when there’s a gap between the deck and a non-removable headliner – unless the builder has bonded aluminium plates to the underside of the deck laminate in the right position.

Clutches and cleats

The final hardware attachments were on the cockpit coamings. First, Jeremy fitted a clutch for the genoa’s roller reefing line, which had previously occupied the spinnaker winch on the port side. He positioned it carefully so the line could still be led around the winch without causing unnecessary chafe. Then he bolted a cam cleat to the outside of each coaming for the barber haulers. Again, alignment with the spinnaker sheet winches was important; the barber haulers can be under substantial load on a close reach, so it’s useful to be able to take them around a winch.

Bolting the clutch and cleats to the coamings was relatively simple, because the inside of the coamings were easily reached from the quarter berths. We used penny washers to spread the load.

In terms of hardware bolted to the deck, that was all we needed. Spinnaker winches can be useful, but on many boats the primary winches serve both headsail and spinnaker sheets with the help of jamming foot blocks.

IMPORTANT MEASUREMENTS

■ Spinnaker pole: the normal length of a pole is the same as the J measurement, i.e., the distance from the front of the mast to the base of the forestay.

■ Pole attachment ring on mast: typically about 5ft (1.5m) above the deck on a 26-footer. The objective is to fly the spinnaker with the pole horizontal and the clews level. If you fit a track, its upper end should be high enough to cater for the maximum pole height and its lower end should, ideally, be close to the deck. That way, you can slide the track to the bottom and leave the pole attached to the mast when sailing upwind. The topping lift can stay attached, too, held against the mast with a plastic clip on the end of a length of bungy.

■ Cordage (approximate lengths, for guidance only) Halyard: length of mast from base to halyard sheave/block x 2.5 (longer if led aft) Sheets/guys: LOA x 2.5 Uphaul: distance from base of mast to sheave/block x 3 Downhaul: LOA x 1 Tweakers: LOA x 0.5

Finishing off

Our final jobs were to attach the ratchet blocks to the quarter, buy some 6mm line for the downhaul and barber haulers, set everything up and wait for a suitable day to make sure it all worked. Fortunately, it did.

Once her autopilot is working properly, Jo should be able to hoist, dowse and gybe the spinnaker on her own in winds up to 10 or 12 knots. And, much of the time, she will be sailing far more efficiently than she would with a cruising chute .

WHAT’S THE COST?

Approximate costs for a 26-footer with a masthead rig (as published in the August 2003 issue of Practical Boat Owner magazine)

Tri-radial spinnaker: £700 – £1,000 depending on the sailmaker and exact dimensions. Sulali’s is of a tri-radial cut from Sanders Sails to the same design as used by Jeremy Rogers. It cost £775

Pole and bridles: £150 – £250

Track and sliding ring on mast: £120 – £150. Fixed ring: under £10

Cordage: £100 – £150 including splices and snap shackles

Hardware – blocks and cleats etc: depends on size and supplier, and what’s already on the boat. The total could range from less than £100 to £250 or more.

■ Remember that buying the spinnaker is only the start; everything else you need could easily come to as much again

■  If in doubt about what’s needed or where to fit it, ask your sailmaker or rigger. They will have an interest in helping you get everything right. Boats, rigs and deck layouts vary so much that it’s impossible to provide guidelines to cover every situation.

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This feature appeared in the August 2003 edition of Practical Boat Owner . For more articles like this, including DIY, money-saving advice, great boat projects, expert tips and ways to improve your boat’s performance, take out a magazine subscription to Britain’s best-selling boating magazine.

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Cruising Chutes

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Using spinnakers on passage

On a long downwind passage, a spinnaker should be your friend, not your foe. duncan wells takes a look at how to make it work for cruising.

The survey results are interesting because they show fewer than 40 per cent of the boats used a downwind sail – despite the fact a downwind sail gets you there quicker.

I wonder if cruisers sometimes worry too much about the symmetrical spinnaker. Are we in awe of it? It’s a big sail, true, but there are some things you can do to make it easy to work with, even if you are sailing short-handed rather than with a full racing crew.

Sailing well under spinnaker

Peak performance for a spinnaker is with the luff on the point of collapse. To achieve this a racing crew would be constantly easing and tightening the sheet.

For cruisers to avoid having to give this constant attention you can do a number of things: oversheet, sail slightly more on the wind, or get the helm to ride the small changes in wind direction and strength by bearing away 10 degrees or so as the spinnaker’s luff starts to curl and then coming back on the wind when the sail is full.

A spinnaker should be docile once you have set it. The key elements to this are making sure the clews are level, keeping the spinnaker pole close to boom level and seeing that the luff of the spinnaker rises vertically from the pole. If it leans out beyond the end of the pole you need to bring the pole back. If it leans in towards the mast you need to ease the pole forward.

Spinnakers are perfect in lighter airs and flatter seas for a crew to handle. They become tricky when the wind freshens, especially if your crew is short-handed, and they should be taken down before the wind pipes up. It is easy to get caught out with wind strengths when running downwind. Remember that an apparent wind of 20kt on the stern or quarter if you are doing 6kt speed over ground is a true wind of 26kt – or Force 6. So if your instruments are reading apparent wind only, consider taking down the spinnaker when the dial reads 14kt, because that plus your 6kt makes 20kt, or Force 5. Alternatively, switch your wind instruments to show the true wind speed when running under spinnaker, if you have the option.

If the wind is forecast to be light enough, there’s no reason why you can’t continue to fly your spinnaker at night. Use a torch to check that all is well, to save wasting precious amps with a searchlight.

Cruising chutes – asymmetrical spinnakers

You do not have a pole to manage here but you do have a tack line to set up.

Sometimes I set the cruising chute without the main. Then I find the cruising chute will run up to 30 per cent by the lee, that is, past the gybe point, without the fear of a main crashing over. Slightly over sheet the chute to avoid having to trim it constantly. Again, like a spinnaker it is at its most powerful when the luff is curling, on the point of collapse.

It is always a good idea to set your downwind sail behind the headsail but in very light airs you can despatch the headsail, then raise and unsnuff the cruising chute, unblanketed by the headsail.

Asymmetrics: tack line adjustment

When setting a cruising chute, lead the tack line back to the cockpit, so you can adjust the height of the tack.

It is useful if you have no bowsprit, as you can attach a snatch block to the toe rail or a forward cleat. It keeps the tack line closer to vertical.

If you are sailing more to windward you want a short tack, which will tighten the luff of the sail; if sailing downwind, have a longer tack to allow the cruising chute to fly ahead of the boat.

At all times you want the tack line to be dead centre. If it is off to leeward you are sailing too high for the sail and if it is off to windward you are sailing too low for the sail, almost dead downwind and need to come on to the wind a bit more.

Other options

Alternatively you can fly twin headsails. With a No 1 genoa on a spinnaker pole and a No 2 set so the clew comes back to a block on the boom and with the boom set at 90 degrees to the boat or as close as the shrouds and stays will allow, you can sail downwind under two headsails. Variations on this are ‘twins’, identically-sized headsails, poled out on whisker poles. The trick with poling out any sail is to ensure that the poles do not dip into the water as the boat rolls. To avoid this, specially made twins tend to have the clew cut fairly high.

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Cooking on a yacht: Top tips from blue water sailors

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• Setting up a cruising chute on a b32 (2002)

Author Topic: Setting up a cruising chute on a b32 (2002)  (Read 5571 times)

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Re: Setting up a cruising chute on a b32 (2002)

Dawntreader.

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• Introducing the Aluminum, Dutch-Built Hutting 46 Explorer for World Cruising

Hutting Yachts is a boat building company from the old school. Based in Holland, the company was founded by Tjerk Hutting in 1975 and he is still chairman. Today, his daughter and two sons are deeply involved with running the company that offers five models of Hutting aluminum-hulled sloops, custom builds up 100 feet and a full service marine refit facility.

The Hutting 46, like all Hutting designs, is conservative by modern production-yacht standards. But, that is because the boat was conceived to be capable of sailing anywhere in the world, including the high latitudes and the remotest regions of Asia and Africa.

Her pleasantly curved bow, slightly springy sheer and flush transom –without a fold-down swim platform—harken back to cruising yachts from the 1980s. Think of boats like the Hallberg-Rassy 46, the Wauquiez 47 and the Oyster 49 and you’ll get the idea.

The 46 has two keel options, a shoal draft semi-fin with wings and a trim tab, or a deep traditional fin, which will be optimal for blue water sailing. The keel structures are welded and integral to the hull structural frame so there is keel-to-hull joint that could fail in a collision or grounding.  The spade ruder has a moderately high aspect shape and should offer a positive feel at all angles. Because of the 46’s relatively narrow stern sections, the rudder should never stall, even at high heel angles.

Sailing performance, judging from the polars, should be good and consistent. For a couple day sailing, you can expect sailing speeds in the six to eight knot range, with the occasional 10 in following seas.  Offshore, you would expect to average 150 miles a day for days on end. Because of the tight sheeting angles of the headsail, I’d expect the 46 to sail upwind at between 43 and 50 degrees of true wind angle.

The standard rig has a large in-mast furling mainsail and a self-tacking jib. This will be a cinch to handle for a lone watchkeeper, which is often the case for couples sailing without crew. The 46 has a retractable carbon bow sprint from which you can fly a cruising chute that will certainly help in light conditions.

He cockpit design is, again, a throwback to yachts of an earlier generation. The is no wide open transom, no double helms, no low coamings, but instead the 46 has a relatively small and deep cockpit, high coamings with ergonomically angled back rests, and full protection under the dodger. This is a cockpit in which you will feel secure in a seaway when waves are boarding unexpectedly, and water is surging down the side decks.

My only hesitation for the rig and cockpit set up is the main sheet leading to the middle of the cockpit where it could he a hazard in difficult sailing conditions.  I’ve definitely become a fan of mid-boom sheeting on cruising boats. Perhaps a traveler forward of the dodger would fix this.

The 46 comes standard with two cabins and two heads. But, each boat is built to order and Hutting will create an interior that is entirely custom for each owner.

In the published layout, they show a U-shaped galley that will be secure and safe while on passage with plenty of surfaces to brace a hip or a knee while working with both hands. And they show the twin sinks on the boat’s centerline so they will drain on both tack when heeled over.

The fit and finish of the Hutting 46, like all of their boats, is highly-evolved, traditional yacht style with solid wood bulkheads, cabinets, drawers and doors all finished in subtle matte varnish. The interior is warm and comfortable and what you would expect from a builder of traditional, wholesome cruising yachts.

For many serious cruisers, an aluminum-hulled passage-maker with a secure cockpit, a simple-to-handle rig and teak decks has a powerful allure and something to aspire to.

Read more here.

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Cruising the Moskva River: A short guide to boat trips in Russia’s capital

There’s hardly a better way to absorb Moscow’s atmosphere than on a ship sailing up and down the Moskva River. While complicated ticketing, loud music and chilling winds might dampen the anticipated fun, this checklist will help you to enjoy the scenic views and not fall into common tourist traps.

How to find the right boat?

There are plenty of boats and selecting the right one might be challenging. The size of the boat should be your main criteria.

Plenty of small boats cruise the Moskva River, and the most vivid one is this yellow Lay’s-branded boat. Everyone who has ever visited Moscow probably has seen it.

This option might leave a passenger disembarking partially deaf as the merciless Russian pop music blasts onboard. A free spirit, however, will find partying on such a vessel to be an unforgettable and authentic experience that’s almost a metaphor for life in modern Russia: too loud, and sometimes too welcoming. Tickets start at $13 (800 rubles) per person.

Bigger boats offer smoother sailing and tend to attract foreign visitors because of their distinct Soviet aura. Indeed, many of the older vessels must have seen better days. They are still afloat, however, and getting aboard is a unique ‘cultural’ experience. Sometimes the crew might offer lunch or dinner to passengers, but this option must be purchased with the ticket. Here is one such  option  offering dinner for $24 (1,490 rubles).

If you want to travel in style, consider Flotilla Radisson. These large, modern vessels are quite posh, with a cozy restaurant and an attentive crew at your service. Even though the selection of wines and food is modest, these vessels are still much better than other boats.

Surprisingly, the luxurious boats are priced rather modestly, and a single ticket goes for $17-$32 (1,100-2,000 rubles); also expect a reasonable restaurant bill on top.

How to buy tickets?

Women holding photos of ships promise huge discounts to “the young and beautiful,” and give personal invitations for river tours. They sound and look nice, but there’s a small catch: their ticket prices are usually more than those purchased online.

“We bought tickets from street hawkers for 900 rubles each, only to later discover that the other passengers bought their tickets twice as cheap!”  wrote  (in Russian) a disappointed Rostislav on a travel company website.

Nevertheless, buying from street hawkers has one considerable advantage: they personally escort you to the vessel so that you don’t waste time looking for the boat on your own.

Prices start at $13 (800 rubles) for one ride, and for an additional $6.5 (400 rubles) you can purchase an unlimited number of tours on the same boat on any given day.

Flotilla Radisson has official ticket offices at Gorky Park and Hotel Ukraine, but they’re often sold out.

Buying online is an option that might save some cash. Websites such as  this   offer considerable discounts for tickets sold online. On a busy Friday night an online purchase might be the only chance to get a ticket on a Flotilla Radisson boat.

This  website  (in Russian) offers multiple options for short river cruises in and around the city center, including offbeat options such as ‘disco cruises’ and ‘children cruises.’ This other  website  sells tickets online, but doesn’t have an English version. The interface is intuitive, however.

Buying tickets online has its bad points, however. The most common is confusing which pier you should go to and missing your river tour.

“I once bought tickets online to save with the discount that the website offered,” said Igor Shvarkin from Moscow. “The pier was initially marked as ‘Park Kultury,’ but when I arrived it wasn’t easy to find my boat because there were too many there. My guests had to walk a considerable distance before I finally found the vessel that accepted my tickets purchased online,” said the man.

There are two main boarding piers in the city center:  Hotel Ukraine  and  Park Kultury . Always take note of your particular berth when buying tickets online.

Where to sit onboard?

Even on a warm day, the headwind might be chilly for passengers on deck. Make sure you have warm clothes, or that the crew has blankets ready upon request.

The glass-encased hold makes the tour much more comfortable, but not at the expense of having an enjoyable experience.

Getting off the boat requires preparation as well. Ideally, you should be able to disembark on any pier along the way. In reality, passengers never know where the boat’s captain will make the next stop. Street hawkers often tell passengers in advance where they’ll be able to disembark. If you buy tickets online then you’ll have to research it yourself.

There’s a chance that the captain won’t make any stops at all and will take you back to where the tour began, which is the case with Flotilla Radisson. The safest option is to automatically expect that you’ll return to the pier where you started.

If using any of Russia Beyond's content, partly or in full, always provide an active hyperlink to the original material.

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Watch CBS News

Cruise ship rescues 68 migrants adrift in Atlantic

By Erielle Delzer , Elias Lopez

June 20, 2024 / 7:40 PM EDT / CBS News

A cruise ship rescued 68 people adrift on a fishing boat off the Canary Islands in the Atlantic Ocean, the cruise operator, Oceania Cruises, said Thursday.

The ship, the Insignia, was near the end of a 180-day trip around the world when it received a distress call about the boat.

"We can confirm that Insignia rescued 68 people from a vessel in distress between Cape Verde and Tenerife and [brought] them onboard for medical assistance and provided food, drinks, clothing and a safe place to rest," Oceania Cruises said in a statement to CBS News. "We have coordinated next steps with authorities in Tenerife, and they will be taking over the care of the rescued people." 

Henry Tom, a cruise ship passenger from Vancouver, Canada, told CBS News that it took a couple of hours to rescue the people on the fishing boat and that about five people on the boat were dead. 

The Associated Press reported the crew was able to recover three of the five bodies on the small boat, known as pirogue, but were unable to recover the remaining two because of bad weather. The news agency said an oil tanker first spotted the drifting boat south of the island of Tenerife. Authorities diverted the Insignia cruise ship to rescue the migrants. 

The migrants were from Africa, Henry Tom, the passenger, said. "We believe they were from Senegal. Not 100% sure," he said. He said they were placed in the Insignia Lounge, where the ship hosts live performances, and that passengers were donating shoes and clothing for the migrants, whom he said had been at sea between 20 and 30 days. 

Spain recorded 55,618 migrants arrived by sea — most of them to the Canary Islands — last year, almost double the number from 2022. More than 23,000 have landed so far this year, according to the Interior Ministry.

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Erielle Delzer is a verification producer for CBS News Confirmed. She covers misinformation, AI and social media. Contact Erielle at [email protected].

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