screecher for catamaran

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Headsails: Gennakers, Screechers and Reachers… Oh My!

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Last Updated on April 1, 2021 by Amy

Figuring out what kind of sails your boat needs is not always a straight-forward and simple question.  All sailboats need sails, right?  But each sailboat may have a different set of needs.  Most cruising boats come standard with a small headsail and a mainsail.

The cruising route of 95% of circumnavigators is a downwind trade winds circumnavigation, which means we need to be set up for downwind sailing .  And while it would be quite nice, there is no one sail that a boat can use in all downwind situations.

Our previous catamaran (a Maine Cat 30) only had a self tacking jib.  This sail is small and doesn’t allow for a lot of adjustment, especially when going downwind.  We’ve chartered boats with larger genoas and I’ve done racing on beach cats with asymmetric spinnakers, but those setups are quite different from what we have on  Starry Horizons .

Table of Contents - Click to Jump

Types of Headsails

For my own sanity, let’s take a look at the major categories of sails.

Sail Terminology

For those of you who may need a refresher of (or an introduction to!) sail terminology, hopefully this diagram will help.  Study it, memorize it, so that when you join us on Starry Horizons you’ll know what I mean when I say we need to attach the head of the sail to the halyard!

The jib is a headsail where the clew (bottom corner of the sail not attached to any standing rigging) does not come aft of the mast.  It can either be self tacking, like our previous boat, or use jib sheets running aft which are worked when the boat changes tacks.  These sails are typically on a furler, which means they can be reefed simply by rolling up the sail a bit.

Also referred to as the “genny”, this sail is very similar to a jib, except that the clew comes back aft of the mast and overlaps the mainsail.  Genoas are rated on a percentage, based on their area relative to the 100% foretriangle which is the area created by the forestay, the mast, and the deck.   Starry Horizons  has a genoa from the factory, and its a great sail for downwind when the winds are high.

Spinnaker Introduction

Hold on to your hats ladies and gentlemen, cause this is where it gets complicated.  In general these sails are used for points of sail all the way from reaching to dead downwind, with some categories even capable of being used on a tight reach.  You may hear general terms such as a “kite” or “chute” being used in reference to spinnakers, and that’s because they somewhat look like a parachute out in front of the boat.  These sails are typically used in conjunction with a “sock” (aka snuffer) that makes deployment and retrieval relatively easy.  Some asymmetrics can even be fitting with a furling system, top down or regular, that will allow it to be furled similar to our genoa.

So now that we’ve covered the basics, let’s take a high level look down at the two main types of spinnakers, asymmetric and symmetric.

Asymmetric Spinnakers

These sails seem to be the most confusing as each sail maker can use different terms for the same sail.  Asymmetrics do seem to be separated by code from 0 – 6, which help classify them for racing purposes, but is helpful to differentiate among the sails.  Thanks to Wikipedia, here is a bit more about the code classification :

• Code 0  The code 0 asymmetric is a tight reaching sail, the most upwind capable of the asymmetrics. The luff is as straight as possible, and the sail is flatter than other spinnakers. Due to the flatness of the code 0, it is usually made with a wire luff for strength, and of a heavier, less stretchy fabric than normal for a spinnaker. Due to the tight luff and flat cut, the code 0 can be fitted for  roller furling .
• Code 1  The code 1 is a light air reaching sail, where the apparent wind angle at low speeds has a significant effect to create angles of less than 90 degrees.
• Code 2  The code 2 is a medium air running sail, used for apparent wind angles over 90 degrees.
• Code 3  The code 3 is a medium air reaching sail, used for apparent wind angles near 90 degrees.
• Code 4  The code 4 is a heavy air running sail, used in the heaviest winds normally expected.
• Code 5  The code 5 is a heavy air reaching sail, used in the heaviest winds normally expected.
• Code 6  The code 6 is a storm sail, for running in storm conditions.

Codes 1, 3, and 5 are reaching sails, and codes 2, 4, and 6 are running sails; the Code 0 is a hybrid of genoa and spinnaker, designed to work like a genoa but classified under racing rules as a spinnaker.  Clear yet?  Wait, it gets better.  North Sails has a line of sails called “gennakers” which are based off the Code 0 classification, while other manufacturers call their Code 0 sails “screechers” (for upwind use) or “reachers” (for downwind use).  Yeah, my head hurts too…

Starry Horizons has a bowsprit so that we can easily rig an asymmetric spinnaker.  Fountaine Pajot offers a gennaker as an option, and our dealer advised us that if we’re going to go with only one additional sail for our boat, that a Code 0 would be the way to go.  It was enough to make my head spin.

Symmetric Spinnaker

As you might guess from the name, these sails are symmetrical, and are typically stabilized using a spinnaker pole, which helps keep the sail on the proper side of the boat.  The beams on catamarans are wide enough that we wouldn’t need one.  In general, these sails are a bit trickier to use when shorthanded as you have additional lines that must be set, and the sail doesn’t seem all that forgiving, meaning it can dramatically open or close with gusts of wind, leading to nervous moments trying to handle the sail.

Parasailor/Wingaker

I’m throwing this one in here as its own category because I’m not quite sure where else to put it.  Parasailors  and Wingakers  are brand names of sails designed for short-handed sailing crews, seem extremely forgiving and have self-trimming features that would allow you to leave the autopilot on.  It definitely is interesting as a downwind sail, and could even be used to on dead downwind run.  I’ve found several blogs of people who have them, and they all seem to have high praise for the sail.  Pairing this with a Code 0 would give us a good variety of sails that could be used in all kinds of conditions.  The Parasailor uses a sock, which means we wouldn’t have to continually swap it out with the Code 0.  All in all, it’s a very intriguing option.

What We Have For Our Circumnavigation

We knew from the start that we were going to want to supplement the sails that come with a Helia and even chose the optional bowsprit and gear option from Fountaine Pajot in order to set up the boat for additional sails.  After  lots of research, here is what we’ve decided on:

Top Down Furling

This was a decision we struggled with for a while.  The traditional way to set and douse a spinnaker is with a “sock” that slides up the sail as it’s being deployed and gets pulled back down over the sail in order to douse it.  This method requires someone to go forward on deck and can require some wrestling with the sail if the winds have picked up.  That’s not entirely ideal and part of the reason we like the Helia 44 so much is that almost all control lines are lead to the helm, meaning we don’t have to leave the helm in order to control the boat.

Our dealer introduced us to top down furling, which is used specifically for spinnakers.  Screechers (or Code 0’s) are flat enough that they can be furled normally.  Top down furlers are really unique systems that have a swivel attached to the furling drum at the tack of the sail, and a “torque rope”, designed to prevent twisting, that the sail actually furls around.  When pulling on the furling line, the swivel lets the tack of the sail swing free, while the head of sail begins to furl.  Eventually when there is enough tension on the sail, the tack of the sail will begin to furl as well.  It’s a bit tough to describe, so here is a video:

There are lots of different companies that offer these sort of systems, and we’re creating almost a ‘franken-rig’ combining favored components from each company.

Profurl:   We chose the Spinex Top-Down Spinnaker Furler  with anti-twist cable to be the “torque rope” for our spinnaker.  This is a very interesting concept that allows the sail to furl faster and easier, as the bearings have a greater diameter than a typical rope, which also prevents the spinnaker from being wrapped too tightly.  As part of this, we also use the Profurl swivel, which can be used with our furling drum.

Karver : We went with a Karver KF2 Furling Drum .  This drum has a unique locking feature that will help prevent the sail from unfurling when we don’t want it to, which is kind of critical in my opinion.  We also rigged up some additional hardware to prevent this from happening, but more back up is always appreciated.  Another feature I really like is we can use the same drum with multiple sails simplifies sail changes and reduce costs.  All that’s need are separate torque ropes.

We worked with a Doyle sail loft that had a relationship with our dealer.  After determining which type of additional sails we wanted, I went around and got quotes from several different lofts.  It was a great learning experience in talking to all the different lofts, but in the end Doyle came in at the right price and has a great reputation as a sailmaker.

This is a fairly all-purpose type sail.  It doesn’t fit in the traditional racing definition of a Code 0, but since  Starry Horizons likely won’t be competing professionally anytime soon, that was okay with me.  The sail is 864 square feet, with a Tri Radial design, made from 5.5oz Dacron and has a white UV Dacron protective layer along the leech and foot.  There were additional options, such as a laminate material instead of Dacron, or square-weave Dacron, or even different weight Dacron, but I felt that the combination of a Tri-Radial design and the 5.5oz weight would give us a fairly good combination of sail performance and shape longevity.

Our contact at Doyle said we should be able to use this sail in light airs up to about 15 knots AWS (apparent wind speed) to keep things comfortable, and should be able to go from about 50 degrees AWA (apparent wind angle) to perhaps 120 degrees.  In real world use, we don’t go much higher than 55 AWA as we have to sheet the sail in so tight it rubs on the cap shroud.

Our fastest passages to date have been where we’ve used our screecher.  Ideally, for our highest speed performance, we sail at 90 degrees on the beam, with winds close to 15 knots.  We can average 200 nm days this way if the wind holds up.

Additionally, we’ve found this sail to be incredibly useful in more complex downwind sailing configurations.  We’ve used it to go wing on wing with our genoa and even moved the tack over to the windward bow to let us sail as deep as 145 degrees!

Asymmetric Spinnaker

For reaching and downwind performance, a spinnaker should be  the way to go.  We chose to go with an asymmetric spinnaker, since it works with the top down furling system.  It also should allow for better reaching performance than a symmetric spinnaker.  Doyle calls our sail the Asymmetrical Power Cruiser, and it is made with Contender Nylite 90, a nylon-based fabric.  One of the cool (to us at least) features of this sail is that you get to choose from a rainbow of colors (with multiple colors and patterns being an option) and could also have a graphic inlaid in the sail.  It was very tempting to have the Starry Horizons logo put on, but in the end we decided to be true to the logo itself, and went for a dark blue spinnaker.

As for the performance of the sail, Doyle lists a range of 85-165 degrees AWA and 5-25 knots AWS.

All that being said, we’ve had a hard time with our spinnaker.  We’ve ripped it three times, one of the times pretty much in half.  The sail is very fickle and requires a close eye on it.

Additional Rigging

The Bowsprit and Gear package from Fountaine Pajot includes an additional winch on the port side of the cockpit to handle sheets, and we rearranged our winches in Palmetto to add an additional winch on the starboard side to make handling the sheets easier and clear up lines being lead to the helm across the deck.  I’ve drawn up a (really) rough diagram of how the rigging is run.

Continuous Furling Line: The line that fits around the furling drum that we use to furl in the sails.

Turning Block :  Takes   the furling line from the furling drum and redirects it down the side of the boat.

Ratchet  Block :  Used on the part of the continuous furling line that actually furls the sail, a ratchet block helps maintain tension on the line.

Stanchion Mounted Lead Block : Helps guide the furling line along the stanchions and reduces friction.

Stanchion Mounted Cleat :  Allows for the furling line to be cleated off and prevent accidental deployment of the sails.

Winches : We have one on each side of the stern to control the sheet of the bigger headsails, which allows us to unfurl the sail, as well as control sail shape.

Pictures of Our New Sails

Before packing up the sails, the loft was kind enough to send us some pictures of the sails.

This sail is 1,397 sq ft which means its bigger than my first two apartments.  That fact is what puts it in perspective for me.   You can see the furler in the picture of the tack, and that picture also gives a pretty good visual of the Spinex Sail Bearings.

The screecher is 864 sq feet, so it is not small by any means. Unlike the spinnaker with the Sail Bearings, the screecher has the torque rope sewn into the luff so it is a part of the sail itself.

Further Reading

Downwind Sail Configurations for a Cruising Catamaran

Planning a Route to Sail Around the World

Several questions:

What sail plan would you choose today if you had a Leopard 50?

What do you know/think about Code D sails?

I’ve been thinking of a Code D and a parasail but my mind is still open.

Please help before I go insane!

Just to get this off my chest, the thing I hate most about sailing is not the cost, the constant repairs, or having to be ready for anything. The thing I hate most is the repetitive and archaic lexicon that we must suffer. Thanks for another great article!

Thanks. I am about to buy either an asymmetric top down furler or parasailer for a catamaran. Can anyone help me?

We wish we had a parasailor.

That’s really useful. Thanks. What did you go with?

We have an asymmetrical too down fueling spinnaker. It’s complicated to use, we’ve ripped it three times and we often pull it to the windward bow anyway.

We chose the North no 5 asymmetrical in Contender Stormlite 250weight. We use a sock. Whilst it took a little bit to get a handle on it my wife and I now often only put that up with nothing else on long downwind runs in everything from 150 to 70 deg angles in winds up to 22knots actual. All good for us, but Gordon in hull no. 12 has a para sailor and swears by it. I just though I would confuse you further.

Tim & Sandy S/V 1 Giant Leap ( Helia Hull no. 7)

Thanks for the extra confusion! I’ve been studying the North website quite a bit and the no. 5 looks like an interesting option. How is your light wind performance with the sail?

We’re getting the factory bowsprit and if we can find the right combo of a Code 0 (or whatever you want to call it!) we can leave on a furler and something like parasailor for more downwind sailing, that’s probably the way we’ll go.

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Top Eight Misconceptions About Code Zero Sails

June 11, 2021

What exactly is a code zero? Code zeros are only used on racing boats, right? Aren't they pretty expensive and difficult to get up and down? If you've pondered any of these questions, you are not alone. There are many misconceptions about these downwind reaching sails, so it's time to get familiar and comfortable with them – code zeros might just be the perfect addition to your downwind sail inventory. Read on as we clear up some of the most common myths and misunderstandings about code zeros.

The code zero has only been around for about 25 years. It was born in the Volvo Ocean Race, back when it was still called the Whitbread-Around-the-World Race. They are often referred to as a gennaker or a code sail. Code zeros have characteristics of an upwind sail but are classified as a downwind sail. Some are built of nylon, while others use heavier, stronger composite materials. There are a lot of things we think we know about a code zero, many of which aren’t true, or, at least, not always true.

We sat down with Quantum’s VP of Product Integration and sail designer Doug Stewart to educate us on the code zero.

1. Code zero is another name for a gennaker. Not necessarily. The term gennaker can cover a code zero, screecher, or reaching spinnaker. Gennaker is just a general term for a potential downwind sail, a cross between a Genoa and an asymmetrical spinnaker. It’s a marketing term.

2. A screecher and a code zero are the same thing. Nope. A screecher is specifically a multihull term for a very large, very flat sail for going upwind or just cracked off. Catamarans and trimarans have notoriously small jibs, making them grossly underpowered in light breeze. A screecher is larger, higher clewed, and fuller than a genoa but flatter than a typical code zero.

3. A code zero is strictly a racing sail. Cruisers of all ilks have taken to the sail for its range and ease of use. True downwind spinnakers can be unruly and intimidating for a shorthanded or novice crew, but the range and furling ability of the code zero make it a fantastic sail for a weekend outing. We find that once introduced to the code zero, cruisers will use this sail more than any other on the boat. Quantum has even created a whole new line of reaching and running downwind sails geared towards cruisers to help make the decision clear and simple when considering adding a specialty sail to your inventory.

4. All code zeros are created equal. A code zero is a code zero is a code zero, right? Not so. While the code zero for racing monohulls is often restricted by rule to a mid-girth of at least 75 percent of the foot length and a leech that is no more than 95 percent of luff length, code zeros for cruising boats and multihulls can be significantly larger and have a lot more variety in their design, from very deep to very flat. There are no rules or restrictions for cruisers! Quantum’s racing code zeros and some cruising code zeros are made with specially developed composites for higher load applications (bigger boats and more close-winded capable sails), while sails for smaller boats and broader angles can be made with heavy nylon.

The most important question to ask yourself as a boat owner is “What do I want to do with this sail?” Are you a racer or a cruiser? Do you want to use it to sail in very light air to sail relatively close to the wind, or will you use it on a broader reach? The answers to those questions will help your sailmaker determine the design of the sail that’s right for you. We’ve renamed our reaching code sails based on the potential apparent wind angle and optimum wind range of each sail, making it even easier to pinpoint the best one for you. Take a look at the AWA 40, AWA 60, and AWA 80 downwind reaching sails.

5. A code zero is strictly a downwind sail. A code zero is often classified as a spinnaker in terms of racing, hence the restriction on the length of the mid-girth, but it’s not a true downwind sail. If you’re going downwind, you’ll use either a symmetrical or asymmetrical spinnaker. While it does depend on the wind speed, especially for boats without a 155-percent genoa, there’s a lot of range between the jib and the first true spinnaker. As soon as you crack off even 5 degrees from the range of the jib, you could be into code zero territory. The whole range of sizing between a Genoa and a 75-percent girth code zero is just opening up as racing rules are now beginning to address and rate this range in the middle.

In light air up to eight knots, a code zero designed with a longer leech and lower clew can be sheeted inboard and used at a higher angle. A higher clew with the sail sheeted to the back of the boat is a reaching code zero and can be used in slightly higher breeze. In an ideal world, we’d sell every boat two code zeros−one for upwind and one for reaching, but we know most boats can only carry one. Whether you’re a racer or a cruiser, it comes back to that question from the sailmaker: What do you want to do with this sail?

6. A code zero is a beast to get down. Okay, so the early code zeros did require an experienced crew to get them back onto the deck safely and cleanly. But today, the majority of code zeros are designed on a furler, making it possible for even a novice crew to go from the jib to the code zero in a matter of seconds. If you are concerned about the slight weight increase of a no-torsion cable, there are even cableless code zero options now!

7. A code zero is really expensive. Early top-down furling systems required a custom-made torsional rope. Really good systems with a quality torsional rope were sometimes as expensive as the sail. However, with more and more manufacturers offering top-down furling systems and torsional rope now available pre-made on a drum (at least for mid-sized boats), the overall cost of the sail and the system has come down significantly.

8. A code zero can do anything. I just said that the code zero is appropriate over a huge range, especially in light wind conditions, and being situated on a top-down furler makes it hugely convenient, even for novice sailors. However, a code zero cannot in fact “do anything.” We see code zeros fail most often when they’re pushed too high in high breeze; this is a particular problem on multihulls because the boats are so stable. A code zero also can’t live indefinitely tacked to the bow of your boat. While cruising code zeros have a thin strip of UV protective material, if left indefinitely in the sun they are sure to shrivel up into a brittle, moldy end.

To maximize a code zero when racing, it’s important to know your crossovers. Be diligent about going out and recording wind speed and wind angle as you switch between your jib, code zero, and spinnaker, and then stick to those numbers.

So there you have it. A code zero will take you through more wind angles than any other headsail on your boat. Add a modern top-down furler and it’s easier to get up and down than a spinnaker. Racing in light, shifty conditions, it might just be the sail that helps you eke out precious tenths, which turn into minutes or even hours on a long distance race. And code zeros are a whole lot less expensive than they used to be. So the final question: What are you waiting for?

Code Zero: Choose Your Angle

Quantum Cruising Downwind Sails

Quantum Cruising Code 0: For All The Angles In Between

The Discussion

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Catamaran Sails

Cruising sails tailored to your vessel, custom design, elite performance.

All Far East Sails are custom designed using the latest sail CAD programs. Every aspect of the vessel is incorporated in our designs, whether you are looking for mainsail and/or headsail. Our sails are not only custom designed, we use premium cloth manufactures such as: Challenge, Contender, dimension-polyant sail cloth. Our sail cloth options cover every facet of cruising to ensure the perfect sail for you and your vessel.

• Catamaran Mainsails are designed Cross Cut, Tri Radial Design, Membrane String (Racing)
• All Sails are 3 Step Zig Zag stitched with 4 points (triple stitched) standard
• Mainsails are designed with full battens either made for round or flat battens
• Mainsails can be design with large roach
• Mainsails can be built with optional Square Top
• Optional Hardware from Rutgerson and Rostan
• Cruising Headsails are designed Cross Cut or Tri Radial Design
• Headsails can be designed with high clew for Catamarans
• UV Protection in Weathermax or Sunbrella
• Sails can be designed with full and/or partial battens
• Luff Tape, Foam Luff, Rope Luff, or Piston Hanks are included
• Carbon, Carbon String, Aramid, Polyester, PEN, and Dacron cloths are available

Spinnaker Sails

• Spinnakers are designed in both Asymmetrical and Symmetrical Cuts
• 3 colors of your choice are included with the spinnakers (colors options vary depending on cloth selection)
• Asymmetrical (A1, A2, A3, A4) and Symmetrical (S1, S2, S3, S4) designs are available
• New: ISF Spinnaker (self furling) design available

Screecher / Code 0

A Screecher is a specific term for catamarans and is a cross between a genoa and an asymmetrical spinnaker that is made little more flat than the typical monohull Code 0's

• Screechers can be designed for vessels with non-overlapping and overlapping headsails
• Ronstan Code 0/Screecher Furler Available (with cable)
• Harken Reflex Cable Less Furler Available

Get In Touch

Request a quote for your sails or simply get in touch with the Far East Sails team.

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MULTIHULL DOWNWIND SAIL DESIGNS, HANDLING OPTIONS AND TECHNIQUES

Cruising your multihull, more on downwind sail designs, handling options and techniques.

Multihull cruising has become a lifestyle by even the most competitive racers. These boats are great platforms for the outdoor living we enjoy in our moderate climate as well as being easy to cruise short-handed by couples. North Sails cruising experts share how techniques vary on multihull cruisers, and provides his tips on how you can make the most of your next sail.

The design for these boats has evolved to maximize cabin space with taller, more powerful rigs and self-tacking Jibs. These sails and systems have significant sail handling benefits with tacking becoming a straightforward process; however, by not overlapping the mast like a traditional genoa, these sail plans often lack area leading to sluggish performance in lighter conditions. At North Sails, our designers have been working hard to offer solutions for all styles of multihulls that improve performance but still allow ease of handling.

Understanding Your Usage Chart

Plots change depending on the performance of the boat. Faster boats may not see the broader angles that the G2 offers. A stable flying G Zero can be designed with enough overlap to gauge into the G One zone.

How do you explain the difference?

Determine the mid-girth of the sail. Using your usage plot, you’ll see the ranges of each sail, determined by apparent wind angles and wind speed.

The Code 55 Screecher

For a boat that does not have an overlapping Genoa, the Code 55 screecher is the first sail to consider.

This sail is set from the bowsprit and is constructed in laminate materials to mimic a traditional Genoa in light winds and can sail within 15 degrees of the Self-tacking jib TW angles for a considerable gain in light air performance.

The Code 55 is engineered to cope with the considerable loads generated when being used close to the wind even in light conditions with the added benefit that they can then be used at wider angles as the wind increases, increasing the range of use considerably. Recommend options are a high-quality torque cable with a bottom-up furling system. A clew velcro to stop accidental unfurling gives an extra level of security and safety. If your preference is to store the sail hoisted, a lightweight UV can be added.

The G Zero is the most popular cruising multihull downwind sail offering great versatility over a wider range of wind angles.

The G zero is a best-of-both-worlds sail for ease of handling and successful downwind miles. G Zeros feature a deeper shape and wider girth compared to a screecher. they are generally designed to sheet outside the main shrouds and excel at the beam close to reaching. G Zeros are compatible with both Top-Down internal and bottom-up furling systems or can be used with a snuffer. These sails can have lightweight UV strips, but because of their lightweight, we recommend lowering the sail when not in use and have no UV for the optimum performance. Cruisers sometimes use these sails without the Mainsail hoisted, and utilizing the width of the multihull and tweaking the sheet forward and outboard can achieve surprisingly low sailing angles.

The G2 Asymmetrical Runner

For Cruisers wanting the ultimate in downwind efficiency but less focused on ease of use, the A2 Asymmetrical Spinnaker is the answer!

These sails are designed full in-depth and girth to achieve the best-running speed and VMG to cover the most miles. Due to being specifically optimized to deeper sailing angles, we would suggest a seamless inventory should have an additional reaching option to fill the gap between the headsails and this sail. For short-handed ease of use, we recommend either a spinnaker Snuffer or a Top-Down Furling system.

The use of a tweaker or handy billy system to alter the sheeting can significantly increase the range of sailing angles and wind ranges. If the upper luff is folding first as you ease the sail and run deeper, you should deflect the sheet forward and outboard to stabilize the sail, so the luff breaks evenly, particularly important when using under autopilot for minimal trim adjustments. It is common for cruisers to use these sails with no Mainsail hoisted but always remember to use the Main topping lift and mainsheet combination as an additional backstay for added security and support to the mast.

The Tweaker or Handy Billy for Cruisers

These are reasonably lightweight purchase systems, typically ranging from 2:1- 6:1. They have a range of uses aboard any boat, but for downwind sails with a fixed sheeting position, they give the ability to change the twist and set of the sail easily while still sheeting the main load through the standard sheeting block and winch location.

The system works best with a snatch block that allows the lowest possible friction for the deflecting sheet; however this can be as simple as a friction ring, snap shackle, or carabiner. In the simplest of forms and even without a purchase system, once you get to know your deep sailing mode requirements, this tweaking can be achieved by a fixed webbing or rope length forward of the stay and can be set up before the sail is even hoisted. A purchase system that can be adjusted under load, however, will give the best performance and stability as well as doing double duty to act as a boom preventer against an accidental gybe and also keep the Mainsail stable if you don’t have a vang.

Sailing angles and techniques for best handling outcomes

Whether it be a spinnaker Snuffer or either a top-down or bottom-up furling system, there are things you can do to make the process of sail setting or retrieval as successful as possible. The first thing to establish is the best angle to have the boat heading in relation to the true wind. This will be a sliding scale through the wind range with a closer angle required in lighter winds and a deeper angle in heavier winds.

If you are too close to the wind with any of the above options, the sail will deploy too rapidly and not at a controlled pace, causing higher sheet load and flogging of the sail, and making sheeting -in much more drawn out and labor-intensive.

The same goes for the furling away or snuffing of a sail; the heading must be far enough away from the wind to relieve the pressure in the sail. With a Snuffer, there is plenty of sheet that is perfect to have pre-set on the winch or in a tailor or cleat for the deployment of the sail. Once you have decided upon the best angle of sail, you should experiment with the sheet setting, and you will come to a conclusion that in some wind ranges to see the sail fill with air and set close to the required sheet setting with only a small trim on required. If you are unfurling a sail by being deep enough, you will be able to release the furling line and tail in the vast majority of the sheet without significant load. From this point, you can then change the course and trim the sail as required without flogging. At the same time, sailing an angle that is too deep could make the sail unstable and risk either accidental gybe or wrapping of the sail fabric around the forestay.

Furling line paths that are simple and run cleanly are a must for the best outcomes

Consider furling or snuffing for gybing, especially in higher winds, and decide to take sails down before the bad weather hits, not when you are already in the grips of a storm! My suggestions for A2 setting and retrieval angles are as follows if you log these from your own experiences on your boat and always go back to them, your downwind sailing will not only be more enjoyable, but you will prolong the life of your sails and rigging.

• 0-5 knots- Heading at 145 degrees of true wind
• 5-12 knots- Heading at 155 degrees of true wind
• 12-18 knots- Heading at 165 degrees of true wind
• Above 18 knots of wind most Multihulls will not require an A2 to achieve great downwind VMG.

Other suggested valuable information to log and keep on hand to refer to are;

• When to add the reefs in the Mainsail
• When and how much tweaker to use in various wind ranges and angles of sail
• When to partly furl headsails and so on

Through consultation with your North Sails Multihull Expert, we can provide you with a range of downwind sail options to match your needs.

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