bayfield 29 sailboat specs

Bayfield 29

The bayfield 29 is a 29.0ft cutter designed by ted gozzard and built in fiberglass by bayfield boat yard ltd. (can) between 1978 and 1983., 350 units have been built..

The Bayfield 29 is a heavy sailboat which is a good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has a low righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a coastal cruiser. The fuel capacity is originally very small. There is a very short water supply range.

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BAYFIELD 29 Detailed Review

If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of BAYFIELD 29. Built by Bayfield Boat Yard Ltd. (CAN) and designed by Ted Gozzard, the boat was first built in 1978. It has a hull type of Long Keel and LOA is 8.84. Its sail area/displacement ratio 20.33. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by Yanmar, runs on Diesel.

BAYFIELD 29 has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about BAYFIELD 29 and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, auxillary power tank, accomodations, contributions, who designed the bayfield 29.

BAYFIELD 29 was designed by Ted Gozzard.

Who builds BAYFIELD 29?

BAYFIELD 29 is built by Bayfield Boat Yard Ltd. (CAN).

When was BAYFIELD 29 first built?

BAYFIELD 29 was first built in 1978.

How long is BAYFIELD 29?

BAYFIELD 29 is 6.63 m in length.

What is mast height on BAYFIELD 29?

BAYFIELD 29 has a mast height of 9.3 m.

Member Boats at HarborMoor

Bow and Stern

Adventures in a bayfield 29.

Bayfield 29 — An early review

I’ve had a few weeks with the new boat (Bayfield 29, la Princesa …until I change the name in a few weeks), and I’m getting a good feel for her.

Firstly, I don’t have any buyers remorse. At least not yet. I’m rather pleased with the design in general.

Under sail:

She sails remarkably well in light air. Not race boat fast; but certainly a lot better than I expected from a full keel, rather full body cutter. Under the asymmetrical spinnaker she would do three knots in around six knots indicated wind (masthead anemometer), and if I was willing to settle for two knots of speed (and I often am), I could probably keep her moving at that pace on most points of sail under working canvas in any but the lightest wind (perhaps I’m overstating the case; but given my experience so far I don’t think by much).

She is perfectly happy in heavyish weather provided she gets a reef in the main by around 20 knots wind or so. I’ve had her in the high twenties pushing thirty (apparent, indicated) under one reef and both head-sails (I’m not sure if they are the original sizes or not) and there was a fair amount of weather helm; but it wasn’t unmanageable or uncomfortable, although a second reef probably wouldn’t have been a bad idea. I haven’t explored the full range of capability yet (I JUST bought the boat); but I’m willing to bet that with the second (fairly deep) reef, 40 knots of wind will be somewhat anti-climatic (although the wave action that goes along with 40 knots might not be pleasant…I’m not rushing to find out). I find her quite stiff (a benefit of that rotund body, I suspect), dry, and comfortable throughout the twenties with probably three to four foot Chesapeake waves.

Under Power:

No trouble handling under power in forward. She will turn within her own length to port (edit: I THINK to port…My recollection is suddenly challenging that direction). In reverse I now understand all the full keel complaints. I’m sure I’ll figure it out eventually; but I haven’t yet. I back into my slip; but I am using warping lines more than engine power at the moment. It’s a bit more work; but even single handed in a cross breeze I know I can get the boat in that way. I have watched some maestros under power, though, and I know it can be done with some more experience.

Cockpit and Deck:

The cockpit is deeper than I would like. It feels quite secure; but I need a huge cushion to sit high enough for good visibility (and I’m not a tiny man!). The seat coamings are practically vertical, the seat bottoms are too narrow, and the foot well area is so wide it is difficult to brace against the opposite seat. Happily, with the cushion I’m high enough I can see, and the boat is stiff enough that bracing isn’t as big a deal as it could be. But if each of the seats was a few inches wider, and the foot well was 6-8 inches narrower, and the back rest was angled a bit, the cockpit would be much more comfortable. Also I find it a little tricky to have one person at the tiller while another is tending the sheets as they both want to occupy the same space. This can be worked around, and with experimentation I am figuring it out; but some more thought here wouldn’t have been out of place. The cockpit also seems designed to hold a tremendous amount of water, with only two average size (1.5″ maybe? Less?) drains to let it all out. Hopefully if I’m ever out in conditions likely to flood the cockpit the cabin hatches are in, and the engine room hatch gasketing is more robust than it looks. Before serious contemplation of an offshore trip I’d have to think long and hard about putting in more cockpit drainage. As deep as the cockpit is, boat handling would be a challenge with more than a couple people in it.

While we are in the cockpit, I’d also like to say that I am not a big fan of having halyards run aft. Running the two head-sail halyards aft is pointless because I have roller furling (which is pretty nice, by the way). And the mains’l halyard is almost as pointless as the main seems to often get hung up on the lazyjacks going both up and down, which requires going to the mast to guide things along. While this is probably correctable either through a reconfiguration of the lazyjacks, or a change in technique on my part, what is not easily correctable is the reefing lines which are at the base of the boom. There is little point in trying to rig them to the cockpit as it is still necessary to be at the mast to get the reefing hook into the tack (although I suppose I could try and rig single line reefing…I’ll think about it). The outhaul and topping lift are also controlled at the mast. What the heck, they might as well have left the main halyard there too! I’ll think about it for the next year or so, I guess, and see if it bugs me enough to make changes. This is one of those things where the current setup appears ideal for the single hander, but I find it quite the opposite. It’s also a shame the boom wasn’t a few inches higher as this is a headache waiting to happen (a foot higher might permit standing headroom under the dodger and bimini)!

One other gripe, although this seems to also be common across most modern designs, is that one of the shroud chainplates on either side goes through the deck. The inner shrouds are attached to the house sides, and with that near vertical orientation they don’t seem to leak. The outer shrouds, though, poke a hole through the damn deck. Why? This is certainly NOT a racing boat, so a couple extra inches of sheeting angle won’t matter, especially since neither head sail extends aft of the mast. If Bayfield would have just moved the chainplates to the hull side I’m willing to bet that any water leakage, even with old caulking, would be minimal. As it is I’m going to need to caulk them up when I do my winter refit. The standing rigging will need to be replaced at some point, and I may consider moving those chain plates out at that time. I need to do research first, though, as there are likely to be unintended consequences.

The good news is the side decks are reasonably wide, the life lines are high enough to be safe, the foredeck feels secure, and the motion of the boat is quite comfortable.

Moving on to the interior we have what is, in many ways, a brilliant layout. By eliminating the v-berth (which typically in small boats becomes a catch all junk room) we not only get rid of the least comfortable berth aboard, we suddenly have room for a remarkably spacious head for a small boat. It is quite comfortable. Forward of the head is a hanging/storage locker, and further forward a huge anchor locker. There is even a funny little cushioned seat in the head, which I haven’t been able to find a point to; but it looks pretty cool even if I’m unlikely to ever sit on it. With the head further forward, we open up the main cabin. There is a centerline table with fold up leafs. On the starboard side is a berth that pulls out into a double, with a regular settee on the port side. Aft further is a half bulkhead that separates the galley (starboard) and chart table (decently sized to port). Partitions slide up from the half bulkhead to really separate the main cabin from what I’m calling the “working” (galley/navigation) cabin if the need for privacy and separation would arise (for instance, on a passage with sleeping crew). Aft of both the galley and chart table are a pair of quarter berths, port (a little too short) and starboard (plenty long). Four opening portlights plus the hatch in the head allow for decent ventilation. I’m 5’10” tall and I have standing headroom throughout, barely, although I have bumped my head a few times walking through the door to the head. Stowage is quite reasonable (I’m still experimenting on how best to utilize it). Water tankage is fine for a week or so (25 or 30 gallons I’m guessing); but could probably stand to be increased for any extended trips, especially considering the waste associated with a pressure water system (there is currently no system implemented for non-pressure water, although this is on my to-do list). The interior is teak, which some people like (me, for one), and others find gloomy. Build quality seems generally very decent.

Brilliant or not, I have a couple gripes about the interior as well. Well, I have one BIG gripe. Once again Ted Gozzard (or perhaps Bayfield yachts themselves) had an ergonomic brain fart. The settees, when in “couch” mode (that is, the seat backs are down), are too narrow, and it constantly feels like you are sitting on the edge of your seat. I guess this is OK for eating at the table; but not my cup of tea for just relaxing in the cabin. Raise the seat backs into bunk mode and they are as comfortable as any bunk I’ve personally been on. I have a few thoughts on how to make the settees more comfortable; but it will take a little experimentation. I’m going to try to avoid major surgery, or having to make new cushions ($$$); but I might not get away with that. Given that this boat will eventually be my home, though, the situation needs to be worked on a bit, and it deserves to have a few dollars thrown at it.

Ice melts fast in the ice-box. I think I’ll probably turn it into dry storage and pick up an Engle or something (I’ll snug it down into the starboard quarter berth or something, I guess).

Mechanicals:

The engine is a Yanmar 2GM, is about thirteen horsepower (although I can not get it up to max continuous RPM of 3400, meaning I’m not getting all the ponies), and seems to push the boat along just fine. When the wind and seas are calm I am just about getting to hull speed at maybe 2800 RPM (indicated). When the wind and waves are well up, I’ve been held back to as little as four knots over the ground (the knotmeter is not giving realistic numbers, so I’m defaulting to GPS…it should be correct within a quarter to maybe half knot or so, I think) at my max achievable RPM of three thousand. A few extra horsepower when the wind is blowing would not be unwelcome; but I think I’m getting an adequate amount. I think twenty horse power would have been a better choice; but not nearly better enough to consider spending the money to repower. I haven’t figured out fuel consumption, yet; but it is modest. The standard alternator is 35 amps. Given the horsepower, I’m not sure if it is reasonable to go much bigger which might put a practical limit on battery capacity.

Engine access is terrific, both through a hatch in the cockpit (although I wonder what would happen if the cockpit got flooded) and by removing the companionway steps, through the cabin. My only complaint is that the oil dipstick is in an awkward location which discourages checking it daily; but that is part of the discipline. I had a cooling problem a few days ago, so I pulled the water pump off to check the impeller and replace the belts. It was easy. I haven’t done any other maintenance on it yet; but outside of changing the oil (I think the old oil is sucked up through the dipstick port with a pump), most everything looks pretty easy to handle. Since there isn’t an hour meter on the motor and I don’t know when any scheduled preventative maintenance was last done, I’m planning on doing pretty much everything on the scheduled maintenance list to effectively reset the clock to zero before hauling in a few weeks for the winter. I may put in an hour meter at some point to help keep track, too.

I have a pair of Group 24 deep cycle batteries, in two banks. I’d like to at least double my amp capacity. It is not immediately obvious the best way to shoe-horn in more batteries, although I have a couple ideas. A tape measure will be my best friend for awhile. Given the smallish alternator, solar charging will be a good idea.

Boat options:

Air-conditioning! It is probably twenty years old and blows cool, but not cold air. I’m going to see if I can fix this up. As a soon to be live-aboard I believe I will replace this unit if I can’t get it working better (might just need a charge, or perhaps a good cleaning). It does get hot here in the Chesapeake!

Propane on demand hot water heater. It works, and generates scalding hot water. But it seems to take awhile to get going, and the water tanks are small enough that running the faucet while waiting for the hot water to show up seems like a terrible waste of fresh water. Taking a hot shower on a cool morning is pretty damn awesome, though! (Although there are pitfalls to showering aboard). I need to redo the propane lines (it’s a trust issue), so I may decide to get rid of the water heater. It will be kind of odd having a hot water faucet on each of the sinks without any hot water; but such is life. I can use my portable pump up sprayer for showers (it works well) by either solar heating the container or just boiling a pot of water.

Deck wash-down pump. The water around here is muddy. It’s very cool to be able to spray off the chain and deck after raising anchor. Very cool.

Propane stove. I guess the Bayfields came with Origo alcohol stoves; but my 29 has a Kenyon two burner propane job. I’m not a big foodie and I tend to cook simple meals, so this isn’t that big a deal to me. Gas is nice, though. Unfortunately, the stove is not gimballed (and it doesn’t have an oven, although that is of limited interest to me), and there is no easy way to install a permanent gimballed stove without doing major galley surgery and probably sacrificing the starboard quarter berth (which isn’t likely to get used much; but it might be important if it comes time to sell the boat down the road). I have a thought on how to inexpensively build a portable/removable gimballed stove sort of like the old Sea Cook stove, so when the time comes I’m sure I’ll be OK. There is currently a six pound propane tank hanging off the stern pulpit. Before doing any long distance cruising it might make sense to get another.

Conclusion:

While I have a few gripes, I find the boat meets my needs about as well, better really, as could be expected. There are always compromises; but in a sub-thirty foot live-aboard (take away the pulpit, it is probably closer to 27′) I don’t think I could ask for much more. I don’t know if many Bayfield 29s are out doing ocean crossings; but while the design might not be the best choice for a trip around the Horn, I don’t see any reason why she shouldn’t be perfectly capable and comfortable for seasonally appropriate passages providing some modest updating is done; although my experience in the matter is a bit limited.

She makes me smile when I look at her, and even though she looks a little tired at the moment, she gets a lot of compliments. She is thirty years old, and as is reasonably expected, her systems and cosmetics need some attention. Getting old sucks; but I don’t see any reason why “ la Princesa ” (I’m looking forward to the new name) can not be restored to full glory with a modest amount of elbow grease.

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4 thoughts on “ Bayfield 29 — An early review ”

I will add some photos to the review above in a day or two. They will help describe some of what I’m talking about.

Any futher comments on your Bayfield? I am considering it for single handing. 63 yo woman sailor here.

My review above pretty much stands, although I’m happy to answer any specific questions you have. I’m still early days in ownership, though.

Single handing, btw, is pretty easy. She’s a stable platform. Docking is a challenge, though. I’m hoping with practice it will get easier.

We have finished year 3 with our 1979 B-29. 6 opening ports, extended bowsprit, wheel steering, no cockpit engine hatch, etc. Docking does get easier- ours pulls hard starboard in reverse but we have a different model Yanmar.

Whatcha thinkin'? Cancel reply

Review of Bayfield 29

Basic specs..

The Bayfield 29 is equipped with a long keel. A long keel provide a better directional stability than a similar boat with a fin keel; on the other hand, better directional stability means also that the boat is more difficult to handle in a harbour with less space.

The boat can enter even shallow marinas as the draft is just about 1.07 - 1.17 meter (3.51 - 3.81 ft) dependent on the load. See immersion rate below.

The boat is typically equipped with an inboard Yanmar 2GM diesel engine at 15.0 hp (11 kW), which gives a max speed about 5.0 knots.

The fuel tank has a capacity of 75 liters (19 US gallons, 16 imperial gallons).

Sailing characteristics

This section covers widely used rules of thumb to describe the sailing characteristics. Please note that even though the calculations are correct, the interpretation of the results might not be valid for extreme boats.

What is Capsize Screening Formula (CSF)?

The capsize screening value for Bayfield 29 is 2.12, indicating that this boat would not be accepted to participate in ocean races.

What is Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed?

The theoretical maximal speed of a displacement boat of this length is 6.2 knots. The term "Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed" is widely used even though a boat can sail faster. The term shall be interpreted as above the theoretical speed a great additional power is necessary for a small gain in speed.

The immersion rate is defined as the weight required to sink the boat a certain level. The immersion rate for Bayfield 29 is about 137 kg/cm, alternatively 771 lbs/inch. Meaning: if you load 137 kg cargo on the boat then it will sink 1 cm. Alternatively, if you load 771 lbs cargo on the boat it will sink 1 inch.

Sailing statistics

This section is statistical comparison with similar boats of the same category. The basis of the following statistical computations is our unique database with more than 26,000 different boat types and 350,000 data points.

What is Motion Comfort Ratio (MCR)?

What is L/B (Length Beam Ratio)?

What is a Ballast Ratio?

What is Displacement Length Ratio?

What is SA/D (Sail Area Displacement ratio)?

Maintenance

When buying anti-fouling bottom paint, it's nice to know how much to buy. The surface of the wet bottom is about 14m 2 (150 ft 2 ). Based on this, your favourite maritime shop can tell you the quantity you need.

Are your sails worn out? You might find your next sail here: Sails for Sale

If you need to renew parts of your running rig and is not quite sure of the dimensions, you may find the estimates computed below useful.

This section is reserved boat owner's modifications, improvements, etc. Here you might find (or contribute with) inspiration for your boat.

Do you have changes/improvements you would like to share? Upload a photo and describe what you have done.

We are always looking for new photos. If you can contribute with photos for Bayfield 29 it would be a great help.

If you have any comments to the review, improvement suggestions, or the like, feel free to contact us . Criticism helps us to improve.

Bayfield 29

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About the bayfield 29  .

The Bayfield 29 is a recreational keelboat, built predominantly of fibreglass, with wood trim. It has a cutter rig with anodized aluminum spars, a clipper bow, a conventional transom, a keel-mounted rudder controlled by a tiller, or optional Edson wheel, and a fixed long keel. The design has no provisions for a spinnaker and has been noted as having a small cockpit. It has a book displacement of 7,100 lb (3,221 kg) and carries 3,000 lb (1,361 kg) of ballast. Company president Jake Rogerson noted in 1985 that the boats were over-built and the actual displacement is probably closer to 8,500 lb (3,856 kg). The boat has a draft of 3.50 ft (1.07 m) with the standard keel. The boat is fitted with a Japanese Yanmar 2GM diesel engine of 15 hp (11 kW) for docking and manoeuvring. The fuel tank holds 19 U.S. gallons (72 L; 16 imp gal) and the fresh water tank has a capacity of 20 U.S. gallons (76 L; 17 imp gal). The design has sleeping accommodation for five people, with two straight settees in the main cabin, one of which converts to a double and two quarter berths aft, one on each side. Unconventionally there is no bow "V" berth and instead the bow is occupied by a large head, instead. The galley is located on the starboard side just forward of the companionway ladder. The galley is "L"-shaped and is equipped with a two-burner alcohol-fired stove, an icebox and a stainless steel sink. A navigation station is opposite the galley, on the port side. The cabin is an open plan design, but has wooden panels built into the gallery counter and the chart table, that can be raised for privacy. The interior was delivered with unfinished teak. The design has a PHRF-LO racing average handicap of 213.

Canada United States

7,100 lb (3,221 kg)

3.50 ft (1.07 m)

Ted Gozzard

Bayfield Boat Yard

29.00 ft (8.84 m)

21.75 ft (6.63 m)

10.17 ft (3.10 m)

Yanmar 2GM 15 hp (11 kW) diesel engine

3,000 lb (1,361 kg)

keel-mounted rudder

Rig / Sails

167.75 sq ft (15.584 m2)

252.00 sq ft (23.412 m2)

419.75 sq ft (38.996 m2)

36.00 ft (10.97 m)

14.00 ft (4.27 m)

30.50 ft (9.30 m)

11.00 ft (3.35 m)

1979 Bayfield 29 Technical Specs

General data about bayfield 29.

Engine and Power Specs

Dimensions And Wieght

Detailed Specifications

Features And Equipments

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Bayfield 29

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• Sailboat Guide

1988 Bayfield Bayfield 29

• Description

Seller's Description

The Bayfield 29 has a full keel, cutter rig (Jib and Staysail), a shallow draft, and a built-in bowsprit (complete with stylized wooden trail boards on either side of its bow). It is an out-and-out cruising boat and regarded as capable of offshore passages. A unique feature of the Bayfield 29 is that it has no V-berth, which, on some boats, can be cramped and difficult to get in and out of. Instead, the Bayfield 29 has a huge and comfortable head where the V-berth is normally found. It does, however, have two quarter berths, as well as two berths in main cabin, one of which converts into a double. The Bayfield 29s cabin is wide open, but built-in wooden panels which slide up from the galley counter and the chart table (a nicely executed idea) can be used to divide the living space into two areas.This Bayfield 29 has unique tall-mast option, with mast and all rigging for Bayfield 32′ as purchased at the Toronto Boat Show by the first owner. Currently on her third owner, she is a well maintained late model Bayfield with a clean Yanmar diesel. Regarded by some as having the perfect interior layout for a pocket cruiser. This is a very solidly built, sea friendly boat. With auto-pilot installed single-handed easily. Ideal for a couple or young family.

Equipment: Engine Information Fuel Type: Diesel Engine Manufacturer: Yanmar Engine Model: Yanmar 2GM20 Serial #08985 Engine HP: 18 HP Number of Engines: 1 Cooling: Raw Water Fuel Tank Capacity in Gallons: 20 gallons Propeller Type: Three Blade Propeller Material: Bronze

Accommodations A unique feature of the Bayfield 29 is that it has no V-berth. The Bayfield 29 has a huge and comfortable head where the v-berth is normally found. Two quarter berths, Two berths in main cabin, one of which converts into a double. The Bayfield 29s cabin is wide open, but built-in wooden panels which slide up from the galley counter and the chart table can be used to divide the living space into two areas.

Below Deck Hand Pump Water Pressurized Water Water Tank Capacity in Gallons: 20 gallons Number of Heads: 1 Head Manual Toilet (Jabsco 2015) Two leaf salon table Holding Tank Capacity in Gallons: 20 gallons Non-pressurized Alcohol Stove Ice Box Headroom: Between 6ft 6ft 4in of Headroom Number of Separate Sleeping Cabins: 1 Separate Sleeping Cabin

On Deck Cockpit Cushions Full Enclosure Bimini Swim Ladder Wheel steering Teak Folding table and cup holder 4 Foresail Winches 3 Halyard Winches Jib Furling Staysail downhaul Double Reefing lines Dickson Barbeque

Mechanical & Accessories Fenders Docklines (Anchor 1) Anchor Type: Bruce (chromed) (Anchor 1) Rode Feet of Chain: approx. 20 (Anchor 1) Rode Feet of Rope: approx. 50 Manual Bilge Pump Electric Bilge Pump (Auto On) Flares Life Ring or Sling Cradle: Fixed Steel (Bayfield Boatyard) Number of Pads: 6

Electrical & Electronics Standard Horizon DSC/VHF Compass Speed/Log Garmin GPSmap 441s Depth Sounder/Sonar (linked to GPS) Autopilot Make / Model: Raytheon Wheel Batteries 12V House and 12V Starter Alternator Output: 12V Shore Power Cord 30A Shorepower Inlets Battery Charger Make / Model: Battery Pal trickle charger

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

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1982 Bayfield 29

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Description

"Priced Just Reduced For Immediate Sale"

Excellent Condition - Yanmar 2GM - Second Owners Have Taken Care Of Her For 18 Years. " It's Time For Us To Let Her Go." - Fully Equipped And Ready To Sail Away! - This Is The Bayfield You Have Been Searching For.

Rachel Kalyn Is A Ted Gozzard Designed Cutter-Rigged Sailboat With Traditional Lines And A Clipper Bow. Her Full 3.5' Shoal Draft Keel Makes For A Steady, Seaworthy Boat While Also Allowing For Exploration Of Small Coves And Gunk Holes. The Open And Roomy Interior Makes It Feel Like You Are In A Much Bigger Boat. This Extends To The Spacious Head With Sink, Toilet And Settee. She Has Graced The Cover Of Good Old Boat Magazine Twice (2008 & 2009)

Specifications

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• 1988 Bayfield 29
• 1988 Bayfield 32 CT
• 1988 Bayfield 36 CT
• 1988 Bayfield 40 KE
• 1987 Bayfield 25
• 1987 Bayfield 29
• 1987 Bayfield 32 CT
• 1987 Bayfield 36 CT
• 1987 Bayfield 40 KE
• 1986 Bayfield 25
• 1986 Bayfield 29
• 1986 Bayfield 32 CT
• 1986 Bayfield 36 CT
• 1986 Bayfield 40 KE
• 1985 Bayfield 25
• 1985 Bayfield 29
• 1985 Bayfield 32 CT
• 1985 Bayfield 40 KE
• 1984 Bayfield 25
• 1984 Bayfield 29
• 1984 Bayfield 32 CT
• 1984 Bayfield 40 KE
• 1983 Bayfield 25
• 1983 Bayfield 29
• 1983 Bayfield 32 CT
• 1983 Bayfield 40 KE
• 1982 Bayfield 25
• 1982 Bayfield 29
• 1982 Bayfield 32 CT
• 1981 Bayfield 25
• 1981 Bayfield 29
• 1981 Bayfield 32 CT
• 1980 Bayfield 25
• 1980 Bayfield 29
• 1980 Bayfield 32 CT
• 1979 Bayfield 25
• 1979 Bayfield 29
• 1979 Bayfield 32 CT
• 1978 Bayfield 25
• 1978 Bayfield 29
• 1978 Bayfield 32 CT
• 1977 Bayfield 25
• 1977 Bayfield 29
• 1977 Bayfield 32 CT
• 1976 Bayfield 25
• 1976 Bayfield 32 CT
• 1975 Bayfield 25
• 1975 Bayfield 32 CT
• 1974 Bayfield 25
• 1974 Bayfield 32 CT

2024 Pursuit OS 445: An Overview

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