how to clean sailboat standing rigging

How To Clean Sailboat Standing Rigging? A Step-by-Step Guide

Have you ever wondered how to clean your sailboat’s standing rigging? You might think it’s a difficult process, but it doesn’t have to be! In this article, we will provide a step-by-step guide to cleaning your sailboat’s standing rigging, so you can keep your boat in top condition.

We’ll also discuss why it’s important to clean the rigging, as well as the safety considerations you need to bear in mind.

From the tools and materials you need to the steps to take when cleaning and lubricating, this article will provide you with all the information you need to keep your sailboat’s standing rigging in great condition.

Read on to get started!

Table of Contents

Short Answer

To clean sailboat standing rigging, first remove the sail and any other hardware that may be attached.

Then, use a soft brush and soapy water to gently scrub the rigging to remove any dirt and grime.

Rinse the rigging with clean water afterwards.

Finally, inspect the rigging for any signs of wear and tear and replace as needed.

Why Cleaning Sailboat Standing Rigging Is Important

Keeping sailboat standing rigging in good condition is essential for its performance and longevity.

Not only does it provide the necessary support for the masts and sails, but it also helps to protect sailors from potential danger.

Cleaning the rigging regularly is the best way to maintain its condition and ensure it is safe and reliable.

When the rigging is not cleaned, dirt, grime, and salt can accumulate and corrode the metal, which can cause it to weaken over time.

This can lead to the rigging breaking and putting sailors in danger.

Additionally, dirt and salt can cause corrosion to occur, which can damage the metal and reduce the life of the rigging.

Furthermore, dirt and salt can affect the performance of the rigging, making it less efficient and reliable.

Regularly cleaning the rigging is the best way to ensure it is in top condition and will continue to perform its job safely and correctly.

This can be done by using a soft brush and mild soap and water to remove any dirt or mud, followed by a rinse with fresh water and a final drying with a clean cloth.

Finally, the rigging should be lubricated with a corrosion-resistant lubricant to help prevent rust and protect the metal from the elements.

By following these steps regularly, sailors can ensure their sailboat’s standing rigging is in top condition and their sailing experience is a safe and enjoyable one.

Cleaning the rigging is an important part of maintaining a sailboat and should not be overlooked.

Safety Considerations for Cleaning

When it comes to cleaning sailboat standing rigging, its important to always consider safety first.

You should never attempt to clean your rigging while standing on the dock or other platform without proper safety harnesses and lines.

Additionally, you should avoid using any harsh chemicals or abrasive materials that could damage the rigging.

It is also important to ensure that any lubricants used are specifically designed for corrosion-resistant protection.

Finally, you should always make sure that the rigging is free of debris or other objects that could cause it to become entangled or frayed.

By following these safety considerations, you can help ensure a successful and safe rigging cleaning experience.

Step-by-Step Guide to Cleaning

Cleaning your sailboats standing rigging is essential to ensure its longevity and performance. Its an easy process that should be done regularly to keep your sailboat in top condition and your sailing experience safe and enjoyable. Heres a step-by-step guide to cleaning your sailboats standing rigging:

1. Begin by removing any dirt or mud with a soft brush and mild soap and water. This will help to loosen and remove any debris that has accumulated on the rigging.

2. Once youve removed the debris, rinse the rigging off with fresh water. You can do this with a hose or a bucket of water.

3. After rinsing the rigging, dry it off with a clean cloth. Make sure the cloth is lint-free and not too abrasive.

4. Finally, you should lubricate the rigging with a corrosion-resistant lubricant. There are many products on the market specifically designed for this purpose. Be sure to select one that is compatible with the type of metal used in your sailboats standing rigging.

By following these steps regularly, you can ensure that your sailboats standing rigging is in the best condition possible.

Doing so will help to prevent rust and protect the metal from the elements – ensuring your sailing experience is a safe and enjoyable one.

Tools and Materials Needed

Cleaning and maintaining your sailboat standing rigging doesnt have to be a daunting task. With the right tools and materials on hand, you can keep your sailboat in top condition and extend its longevity. Before you begin the cleaning process, its important to have the following tools and materials ready:

-Soft brush: A soft brush is important for removing dirt and mud without scratching the standing rigging.

-Mild soap and water: For a gentle cleaning solution, use a mild soap and water mixture.

-Fresh water: After youve removed the dirt and mud, rinse the rigging off with fresh water to remove any soap residue.

-Clean cloth: Use a clean cloth to dry off the standing rigging after youve rinsed it off with fresh water.

-Corrosion-resistant lubricant: To protect the metal from the elements, use a corrosion-resistant lubricant to lubricate the standing rigging.

Removing Dirt and Mud

When it comes to cleaning your sailboats standing rigging, the first step is to remove any dirt and mud that may have accumulated on the surface.

This is best done using a soft brush and mild soap and water.

Start by lightly brushing the surface of the rigging to loosen any dirt and mud that may have become stuck in the crevices and threads.

Once this is done, use a damp cloth to wipe away the dirt and mud.

Its important to be gentle and not to scrub too hard, as this could damage the rigging.

In addition, its a good idea to wear gloves while doing this, as the dirt and mud can contain corrosive elements which could cause skin irritation.

Once the dirt and mud have been removed, rinse the rigging with fresh water to ensure that all the soap has been washed away.

Finally, dry the rigging off with a clean cloth.

Rinsing with Fresh Water

Rinsing your sailboat standing rigging with fresh water is an important step in the cleaning process.

While many sailors may be tempted to skip this step, it is essential for keeping your rigging in top condition.

Fresh water will help to remove any remaining dirt or debris that has been loosened by the mild soap and brush.

It is important to use fresh water to rinse off the rigging as saltwater can corrode the metal and cause it to rust.

After rinsing the rigging with fresh water, make sure to dry it off thoroughly with a clean cloth.

This will help to prevent any remaining moisture from causing rust or corrosion to your sailboat’s standing rigging.

Taking the time to rinse your rigging with fresh water will help to ensure your sailing experience is a safe and enjoyable one.

Lubricating the Rigging

When it comes to keeping your sailboats standing rigging clean, one of the most important steps is lubricating it.

Lubrication helps to prevent rust and corrosion, and it also helps to protect the metal from the elements.

When looking for a suitable lubricant, you should look for one that is specifically designed for marine use and is corrosion-resistant.

This will ensure that the lubricant will last longer and provide better protection against the harsh marine environment.

When applying the lubricant, its important to make sure that you cover the entire surface area of the rigging.

This can be done by using a soft cloth or brush to spread the lubricant evenly.

You should also take care to avoid applying too much lubricant, as this can attract dirt and debris and cause the rigging to become slick and unstable.

Once youve applied the lubricant, you should allow the rigging to dry completely before reassembling the sailboat.

This will ensure that the lubricant is fully absorbed into the metal and wont be washed away the next time you sail.

Additionally, its a good idea to inspect the rigging every few months and reapply lubricant if necessary.

Following these steps will help you ensure that your sailboats standing rigging is in top condition and your sailing experience is a safe and enjoyable one.

Final Thoughts

Good sailboat standing rigging maintenance is essential for safe and enjoyable sailing.

Following the simple steps outlined in this guide – from removing dirt and mud to lubricating the rigging – will help you ensure your sailboat’s standing rigging is in top condition.

Now that you know how to clean sailboat standing rigging, it’s time to get out there and make the most of your sailing experience!

James Frami

At the age of 15, he and four other friends from his neighborhood constructed their first boat. He has been sailing for almost 30 years and has a wealth of knowledge that he wants to share with others.

Recent Posts

When Was Banana Boat Song Released? (HISTORICAL INSIGHTS)

The "Banana Boat Song" was released in 1956 by Harry Belafonte. This calypso-style song, also known as "Day-O," became a huge hit and remains popular to this day for its catchy tune and upbeat...

How to Make Banana Boat Smoothie King? (DELICIOUS RECIPE REVEALED)

To make a Banana Boat Smoothie King smoothie at home, start by gathering the ingredients: a ripe banana, peanut butter, chocolate protein powder, almond milk, and ice. Blend the banana, a scoop of...

Maintaining your Standing Rigging

Published by rigworks on march 23, 2016 march 23, 2016.

Question:  How do I maintain my stainless steel standing rigging to ensure that my boat is safe and performing optimally?

From the Rigger:  Maintaining your Standing Rigging…

Stainless Steel Standing Rigging is one of the lowest maintenance components on the modern sailboat. Although desired upkeep is relatively simple, it is essential to ensure the safety of your rig and those aboard your vessel. The most common cause of dismasting is lack of care given to spars and rigging.

Proper maintenance includes routine cleaning, regular and careful inspection, and the avoidance of a few bad practices. We have put together a detailed datasheet on Standing Rigging Care (900k .pdf file) which reviews all aspects of great rig maintenance, including:

• Routine cleaning – how and what to use to clean your rig
• Careful inspection – what to look for on your own and when to consider a professional inspection
• Do’s and Don’ts of caring for your rig
• Causes of corrosion in stainless steel wire and rod
• Industry standards for the life span of sailboat rigging
• Inspection schedules based on displacement and usage categories
• Mast system inspection categories
• Special consideration for caring for new standing rigging

Of course, if you have any specific questions about your rig or would like to schedule a professional inspection, please give us a call. We always look forward to hearing from  you!

Related Posts

Ask the Rigger

Do your masthead sheaves need replacing.

Question: My halyard is binding. What’s up? From the Rigger: Most boat owners do not climb their masts regularly, but our riggers spend a lot of time up there. And they often find badly damaged Read more…

Standing Rigging (or ‘Name That Stay’)

Question: When your riggers talk about standing rigging, they often use terms I don’t recognize. Can you break it down for me? From the Rigger: Let’s play ‘Name that Stay’… Forestay (1 or HS) – Read more…

Selecting Rope – Length, Diameter, Type

Question: Do you have guidelines for selecting halyards, sheets, etc. for my sailboat? From the Rigger:  First, if your old rope served its purpose but needs replacing, we recommend duplicating it as closely as possible Read more…

Maintaining standing rigging

Routine inspections and prompt maintenance should keep the mast where it's supposed to be­-up

Modern standing rigging needs remarkably little maintenance. The days of slushing the mast are long gone, but there are things to pay attention to and a bit of preventative maintenance to be concerned about.

The first thing to take a look at is to see that the rig actually fits your boat. An obvious point is length: Are the wires the correct length? Are the turnbuckles roughly centered up, such that the wire is not so short that the turnbuckle just engages, nor so long that the turnbuckle is totally cranked tight? A more subtle point is to check that the clevis pins match the wire terminals, mast tangs and chainplates. An undersized pin may look OK, but it presents a weak spot in your rig. A properly sized clevis pin is designed to spread the load it carries around the entire pin and what it interfaces to. A pin that is too small will point load and cause the mating surfaces to go oval. The next thing to check is the condition of the wire and terminals. Stainless steel wire and terminals are remarkably durable but they do not last forever. Stainless steel work hardens as it ages, it become more and more brittle, and corrosion is also an enemy. It is important to thoroughly check the wire and terminals at least once a season. Wire typically fails with strands breaking right at the swage. A close examination and luck can catch this as it is breaking, but it is far more likely to see an actual broken strand. Terminals will fail a few different ways, and a classic problem is the swage cracking. But threaded terminals can also fail right at the threads. Terminals on the lower end of the wire typically fail more quickly due the proximity to saltwater and the fact that they are wet more often.

Three types of inspections There are essentially three forms of rig inspection: a quick look at the rig with everything in sailing form, loosening things up and inspecting each terminal and pulling the mast to inspect each component intensively. You should take a quick look several times a year, a more in-depth look at least once a year, and you really should pull the stick to make sure everything is in order every four to five years. Of course, if you store seasonally with your mast down the schedule changes a bit. A great way to inspect rigging is with a handheld microscope. You can get an inexpensive microscope from Radio Shack; model 63-1313 is less than $20 and provides up to 100x magnification. Optically inspecting with a microscope is more practical and less expensive that dye testing or other methods. Assuming the wire all looks good, you'll need to take a look at the chainplates and mast tangs. Again you are looking for any cracking or corrosion. Chainplates will often fail at or below the deckline, as trapped moisture can cause the hidden stainless steel to succumb to crevice corrosion. Be sure to examine the mast tangs and especially the through-bolts. Wire halyards have been known to saw right through mast through-bolts over time.

Tune it up A rig will last much longer, and your boat will sail better, if it is properly tuned. A rig should not be too tight or too loose. A rig that is too tight puts additional static stretch on the wire and everything it is attached to. A rig that is too loose will shock load on every tack as the rig slams from tack to tack. A dramatically over-tightened rig can actually permanently damage the wire, which can stretch beyond its elastic recovery point and fail catastrophically. As I said, standing rigging doesn't last forever, and ideally it should be replaced before it fails. The lifetime of a rig is variable: it depends on the state of tune, the climate, water salinity and more. Worst case, a boat sailed hard in tropical conditions may need a new rig every five to seven years. A lightly sailed boat in fresh water can stretch this lifespan considerably, and 15 or more years is not unreasonable. A large portion of your rig is held together with cotter pins. They secure the clevis pins and hold the position of your turnbuckles. You may be tempted to replace your cotter pins with circular pins, sometimes called cotter rings or ring dings. These seem like a good idea, with no sharp edges and the fact that you can install and remove them without tools, but they are not secure. An errant sheet can snag a cotter ring and easily pull it out, if the ring is in a clevis pin the result could be devastating. A better solution is to use traditional cotter pins. You'll need to tape them to prevent sail and sheet damage, but they will stay put until you take them out. Speaking of tape, rigging tape or white electrical tape does the job, but you can get better tape at a better price at your local Home Depot. 3M Linerless Rubber Splicing Tape does a great job as rigging tape, yes it is black, but think of it as industrial chic. It is thicker, lasts longer and just plain works better. Best of all, a 30-foot roll is less than $15. Maintain the turnbuckles A part of your rig that does need true maintenance is the turnbuckles. Turnbuckles should be cleaned and lubricated periodically, and the procedure varies depending on what the turnbuckles are made of. Turnbuckle bodies are typically made of stainless steel or chrome-plated bronze. Usually traditional style open-body turnbuckles are bronze while the closed-body designs are stainless steel. The cleaning procedure is the same on both: just loosen the turnbuckle all the way and wipe the threads down with a rag dampened with mineral spirits. Lubrication of turnbuckles is a little more complicated. Stainless steel and bronze work well together, so with a plated turnbuckle you only need to reduce friction. In this case the turnbuckle should be lubricated with a dry lube such as McLube's Sailkote or any Teflon-based lubricant. In an all-stainless turnbuckle you need to be careful to avoid galling. Galling is a form of cold welding, where the metals actually fuse together on a molecular level, and it occurs when stainless parts interface without proper lubrication, it can cause turnbuckles threads to tear or in severe cases for the turnbuckle to seize up. You can avoid galling by lubricating the threads periodically. I have successfully used automotive anti-seize compound and Tef-Gel works well too. Use the lubricants sparingly, and you'll need to just be careful to not get the lube on sails and running rigging while in use. An even better solution, if possible, is to swap out the stainless steel body for a plated bronze version. You don't want to worry about your rig, and with a little attention your rig will last for many years. If you neglect things you could be facing a dramatic rig failure. The choice is fairly simple.

Also in Technique

• The zen of onboard organization
• Asymmetric spinnaker handling for cruisers
• Sailing in light air
• Foul weather gear care
• Survive going overboard
• The knots you need to know
• How to start sailing shorthanded
• Winch servicing
• Repairing delaminated core
• Splicing Dyneema

Also from Staff

• Tor Johnson
• Learn to Sail Better
• New boat: Aureus XV Absolute
• Remembering Hobie
• Catalina 275 Sport
• New boat: Saphire 27

• Forums New posts Unanswered threads Register Top Posts Email
• What's new New posts New Posts (legacy) Latest activity New media
• Media New media New comments
• Boat Info Downloads Weekly Quiz Topic FAQ 10000boatnames.com
• Classifieds Sell Your Boat Used Gear for Sale
• Parts General Marine Parts Hunter Beneteau Catalina MacGregor Oday
• Help Terms of Use Monday Mail Subscribe Monday Mail Unsubscribe

polishing & removing rust from stainless rigging?

• Thread starter william
• Start date Nov 5, 2003
• Hunter Owner Forums
• Smaller Boats

John Baumgartner

don't use steel wool in any form!!!!!!3M Green pads ok but a good coat of wax after  

I always end up with Brasso I am a sucker for every new metal polish I see, and I always end up using Brasso in the end. I use a brass wire brush (not steel wire it leaves iron deposits that will soon rust) a tooth brush, Q-tips, and rags. I never bother waxing unless its up high and can't be reached easy. The shine is worth the work...and there are a lot worse ways to spend some time than spending a sunny afternoon polishing up my boat....and listening to some music...and maybe doing some fishing all at the same time.IJ  

Bob Fliegel

Stainless Steel Cleaner/Polish I use a cleaner and polish called "Mr. Douglas Metal Cleaner". I have only found it a boat shows. Its a remarkable product and I use it on all metals (boats, cars, motorcycle, household items, etc).I addition to cleaning and polishing metal I have also found it to be great at removing the oxidation on fiberglass.I don't use and brushes, just some times my finger nail on tough spots and a lot or rubbing.After the metal is cleaned I put a coat of "anhydroxide lanolyn" (the wax obtained from sheep) on everything and its protected for the season. You can get this from any drug store. West Marine also has a produce called Lanocate, imported from Australia, which is also suppose to be very good as a protectant.  

Pops Landing

Bar Keepers Friend and lots of water followed with a good waxing.  

is this any less abrasive than ajax? isn't this just scouring powder? that does sound like it would do good for tough or rusty spots. ...followed by a polish like has been previously mentioned.  

nick maggio

FLITZ I used flitz in a can on my 2001- 290 and it was easy to use and did a great job and the stainless looks like new again ,I did use a scotch guard pad on some tuff spots and this was the first time I did anything to the stainless on the boat for three season's. I will see how well it looks next spring after winter lay up. Nick  

Flitz for lifelines also... Flitz works great to get the SS clean and spot free. I also find it works really well to clean the lifelines - makes them look bright white agian!  

• This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more…