nor'sea 27 sailboat data

The Norsea 27 is a 27.0ft masthead sloop designed by Lyle C. Hess and built in fiberglass by Nor'Sea Marine (USA) since 1976.

450 units have been built..

The Norsea 27 is a moderate weight sailboat which is slightly under powered. It is stable / stiff and has an excellent righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a bluewater cruising boat. The fuel capacity is originally small. There is a short water supply range.

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NOR'SEA 27 Detailed Review

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If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of NOR'SEA 27. Built by Nor'Sea Marine (USA) and designed by Lyle C. Hess, the boat was first built in 1976. It has a hull type of Long keel w/trans. hung rudder and LOA is 8.23. Its sail area/displacement ratio 14.96. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by Faryman, runs on Diesel.

NOR'SEA 27 has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about NOR'SEA 27 and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, auxillary power tank, accomodations, contributions, who designed the nor'sea 27.

NOR'SEA 27 was designed by Lyle C. Hess.

Who builds NOR'SEA 27?

NOR'SEA 27 is built by Nor'Sea Marine (USA).

When was NOR'SEA 27 first built?

NOR'SEA 27 was first built in 1976.

How long is NOR'SEA 27?

NOR'SEA 27 is 7.01 m in length.

What is mast height on NOR'SEA 27?

NOR'SEA 27 has a mast height of 9.39 m.

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Nor’Sea 27: A Trailerable Offshore Cruiser

Legend has it the idea for this unique pocket cruiser was born round a campfire in Baja California in the early 1970s as two brothers, Dean and Stan Wixom, speculated on alternative modes of exploring Baja and the Sea of Cortez. They were on motorcycles, had tired of the dusty ride, and thought a small, but truly ocean-worthy cruising sailboat on a trailer might be a better way to travel. Dean later queried several yacht designers, but the only one who thought such a craft feasible was Lyle Hess , who allegedly took only a few minutes to sketch out the basic concept of what became the Nor’Sea 27.

Wixom built hull number one in a makeshift plant in Southern California in 1977, then three years later built himself a boat (hull number 77, as it happened) and sailed off over the horizon in it. His new business, Heritage Marine, he sold to Bob Eeg, who renamed the company Nor’Sea Marine and has continued building Nor’Sea 27s ever since. To date over 450 have been launched and many believe it to be the most seaworthy cruising sailboat in its size range.

The Nor’Sea is certainly not the only robust pocket cruiser that can be hauled on a trailer. Several others fit the same basic criteria: shoal draft (under 4 feet to slip on and off a trailer on a ramp), narrow beam (not more than 8 feet to transit highways without permits), and moderate displacement (not much more than 8,000 lbs). But the Nor’Sea may well be the deepest, heaviest sailboat ever explicitly designed to be trailerable. Indeed, its proponents readily admit it is not a true trailer-sailer, but is instead “transportable” by trailer. A large tow vehicle and preferably a triple-axle trailer are needed to move it, and many owners who do tow Nor’Seas to distant cruising grounds don’t launch on ramps but instead hire Travelifts to insert them in the water. Though the mast is deck-stepped in a hinged tabernacle, rigging the boat is said to take a minimum of three hours.

What is most unusual about the Nor’Sea 27 is its standard layout. Defying all dicta stating that an attractive, functional center-cockpit sailboat must be large, the little Nor’Sea features a center cockpit in front of a tiny aft cuddy cabin that houses a pair of quarterberths and, amazingly, the arrangement works very well. The boat’s lines, which incorporate a broad canoe stern, are clean and pleasing to the eye without exhibiting excessive freeboard, and the cockpit, though small, is very serviceable. The helm, most notably, consists of a long tiller that reaches over the top of the aft cabin from a large transom-hung rudder. Though there is also a much more conventional aft-cockpit version of the boat, the quirky center-cockpit version is far more popular.

Down below in the main cabin in the standard layout there is a decent galley to starboard, an enclosed head and small nav station to port, plus two settee berths either side of a saloon table that collapses to form a full double berth. (The aft-cockpit layout is similar, with twin quarterberths aft in the main cabin.) There is also a great deal of storage, with over 30 lockers to stash gear and supplies in. The end result is a functional small-boat interior that comfortably accommodates two couples or a couple with two children and also offers a remarkable amount of privacy.

The boat’s construction is extremely strong. The hull is solid handlaid laminate, composed of up to 22 layers of mat and woven roving, with faux lapstrakes molded in. The lapstrakes, which require some care during layup, enhance the boat’s traditional appearance and also stiffen the hull, which is further supported by interior bulkheads and a partial molded liner. The plywood-cored deck is fixed to an inward flange with adhesive sealant and though-bolts on 6-inch centers. Deck fittings and hardware are through-bolted to stainless-steel backing plates. The ballast is encapsulated lead. The boat’s rig and many critical pieces of hardware, including the rudder pintle and gudgeons, are also significantly oversized. The interior joinerwork on factory-finished boats meanwhile is good, though there are also many owner-finished interiors of much more variable quality.

Given the Nor’Sea’s long production run, remarkably few chronic flaws have appeared. Early boats were fitted with raw-water-cooled Farymann diesels that inevitably suffer from internal corrosion over time. These eventually must be rebuilt or replaced. Engine access is tight, but the engine (located under the cockpit) is reportedly relatively easy to remove. The biggest potential problem is the aluminum fuel tank, buried in the keel directly under the engine. On early boats these have often been corroded by seawater dripping off the propeller’s packing gland and must be either glassed over entirely to preserve their integrity or excavated and replaced, which reportedly is an onerous job.

As to performance, the Nor’Sea by all accounts sails very well. It’s not hard to find Nor’Sea owners who boast of overtaking longer, lighter boats while cruising, though presumably this is much easier with a tall rig, as opposed to the once optional short rig. The boat’s interesting hull form features a long waterline and what is effectively a full keel with all of its forward end cut away. This facilitates launching and recovering the boat on a trailer ramp, and also reduces wetted surface area while still imparting good directional stability. The boat reportedly tracks well to weather given its draft and its helm is relatively light, though some complain it is not very well balanced.

Most important, the boat has a reputation for handling well in a seaway. This is reflected in both its motion comfort ratio, which is exceedingly high for a boat this size and weight, and its capsize screening value, which is reassuringly low. Note, however, that Nor’Seas built prior to 1980 carry less ballast (either 2,500 or 3,000 pounds, depending on which ballast package the original owner specified), thus are likely to feel at least somewhat less stable than newer boats carrying the now-standard 3,100 pounds.

The Nor’Sea 27 is a very much cult boat and used examples rarely stay on the market for long. Less than half are normally sold with trailers, and trailers large enough to haul a boat this heavy are expensive, so be sure to take this into account when considering prices. New boats can be built to various stages of completion.

Specifications

LOA: 27’0” LWL: 25’0” Beam: 8’0” Draft: 3’10” Ballast: 3,100 lbs. Displacement: 8,100 lbs. Sail area –Tall rig: 376 sq.ft. –Short rig: 335 sq.ft. Fuel: 25 gal. Water: 50 gal. D/L ratio: 231 SA/D ratio –Tall rig: 14.89 –Short rig: 13.26 Comfort ratio: 30.44 Capsize screening: 1.59 Nominal hull speed: 7.6 knots Typical asking prices: $35K – $90K Base price new (without trailer): $151K

PS: If you like this post and think I should be paid to write this blog, please click here . The link will take you to the same post at BoaterMouth, where you’ll find many other blogs about boats.

UNHAPPY BOAT KIDS: The Books I Read & A Happy Family Holiday Mini-Cruise

THE BOY WHO FELL TO SHORE: Presentation and Book Signing in Sausalito

hull #38 40 years to completion and is a work of art……..Elwood brothers

Bluewater Sailboat – Nor’Sea 27

Also called: norsea 27.

The Bluewater Nor’Sea 27 is a compact but tough pocket-cruiser designed with live-aboard comfort and seaworthiness in mind. Lyle Hess, widely renowned for building Lynn and Larry Pardey’s bluewater cruising yachts Seraffyn and Taleisin, was tasked with creating a heavy weather, long distance cruiser that could be lawfully trailered. Unfazed, Hess designed this sturdy and conventionally fashioned 27-foot double-ender that can be transported between oceans if not strictly trailerable.

“Any boat that puts her bow out to sea should be designed so that the crew need not worry about a safe return—regardless of what tricks the weather may play,” writes Lyle Hess. The Bluewater Sailboat Nor’Sea 27 is a monument to this concept, having completed four circumnavigations and more than 160 Pacific and Atlantic crossings.

Since its debut in 1977, the small cruiser has developed a cult following. Around 450 have been constructed in all, and production continues to this day.

LOA: 31′ 0″ (with bowsprit)
LOD: 27′ 0″ (without bowsprit)
LWL: 25′ 0″
Beam: 8′ 0″
Draft: 3′ 10″
Displacement: 8,100 lbs.
Ballast: 3100 lbs
Ballast, standard: 2500 lbs. (pre-1980)
Ballast, heavy: 3000 lbs. (pre-1980)
Sail Area, current rig: 394 sq. ft. (35′ 0″ mast)
Sail Area, tall rig: 376 sq. ft. (34′ 0″ mast)
Sail Area, short rig: 335 sq. ft. (30′ 6″ mast)
Headroom: 6′ 0″ Water: 40 US Gal.
Fuel: 30 US Gal.
Engine: 9hp Farymann/ 20hp Yanmar 2GM diesel
Designer: Lyle C. Hess
Builder: Heritage Marine/ Nor’Sea Yachts
Year Introduced: 1977
Total Built: 450
Also Known As: Norsea 27

A young guy named Larry Pardey purchased a set of boat designs from designer Lyle Hess one day in the 1960s. The yacht was designed by a Newport Renegade. He built his own boat Seraffyn using the plans and set off travelling with his new bride Lin. Lin and Larry went on to become well-known among the cruising community through the books they wrote, introducing Hess and, of course, the Renegade design to a broader audience.

Dean Wixom, president of Heritage Marine, approached Hess because to the popularity of the Renegade. Wixom was making the rounds among designers at the time, looking for a cruiser that could endure the harshest offshore weather while remaining legally trailerable. The notion was that big-boat seaworthiness combined with the ease of overland transit would offer up some rather fascinating cruising areas to sailors with little time. Hess was the only designer willing to take on the challenge, and the result was the Nor’Sea 27.

The Bluewater Nor’Sea 27 is a prime example of Nor’Sea Yachts’ “ultra heavy duty” construction philosophy. The hull is made of solid hand-laid one-piece laminate with up to 22 layers of mat and woven roving, and moulded in lapstrakes, which provide added stiffness and strength as well as traditional appearances and a drier boat. The laminate thickness ranges from 5/16″ at the sheer to 3/4″ at the keel. Interior plywood bulkheads and a partially moulded fibreglass liner add structural reinforcement to the hull, resulting in an extraordinarily sturdy hull.

The plywood-cored deck is secured to an inside flange with adhesive sealant and 6-inch stainless steel fasteners. Oversized deck fittings and hardware are through-bolted to stainless steel backing plates. This build quality provides the Nor’Sea 27 with the strength of a larger boat, but it is not inexpensive.

The craftsmanship that went into those Bluewater sailboats are great. The boats are build with little consideration for cost as the company already had the world’s most costly 27-footer, so they couldn’t bring to cut corners in places where they were rarely seen.

The sailboats were sold as fully finished boats, almost finished boats with minor finishing touches, or hull and deck kits. The internal joinery on factory-finished Bluewater sailboats is good, but boats made from hull and deck kits vary greatly in quality.

The Bluewater Sailboat Nor’Sea 27 is a heavily-rigged sloop with moderate displacement, a shoal draught of 3″ 10′, and an 8ft beam that permits trailering without a permission. Ballast packages of normal (2500 lbs) and heavy (3000 lbs) were available on early boats, but since 1980, all vessels have had 3100 lbs of encapsulated lead ballast.

Dean Wixom wanted a conventional double-ended profile, so Hess drew inspiration from the Norwegian Spitzgatter, with a wide-flowing canoe stern accentuated by the upward sweep of the lapstrakes and a beautiful, springy sheerline. Any resemblance to the Spitzgatter below the waterline stops with a full keel with a speedy and modern forefoot cutaway. Her lines are sleek and appealing, and Wixom claims the hull is the most beautiful he’s seen on a small cruiser.

The Nor’Sea 27 has an intriguing feature that sets her apart from other trailerable pocket cruisers: the regular center-cockpit layout, which is usually reserved for considerably larger sailboats. Although the typical aft cockpit arrangement is available, the centre-cockpit form has proven to be 9 times more popular. The modest aft cabin available in the center-cockpit arrangement effectively contains two quarter sleepers and is highly valued for the solitude it provides. The cabin also provides additional shelter to the cockpit, which is small for bluewater but large enough for two persons to sit comfortably. A long tiller reaches over the roof of the aft cabin to a huge transom-hung rudder at the helm.

Performance

The Nor’Sea27 is sturdy, sea-friendly, and surprisingly quick Bluewater Sailboat thanks to Hess’ unique underwater profile. Owners of Nor’Sea have been heard bragging about passing longer, lighter boats when travelling. She tracks well in light winds, is slippery in light airs, and is simple to single-hand. Her helm, albeit light, is not properly balanced and cannot be left unattended for long.

If you are interested in learning more about the specifications and details of a sailboat, we recommend visiting the page Bluewater Sailboat data . This page provides comprehensive information and is an excellent resource for anyone seeking detailed information about 1000+ sailboats.

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Review of Nor'Sea 27

Basic specs., sailing characteristics.

This section covers widely used rules of thumb to describe the sailing characteristics. Please note that even though the calculations are correct, the interpretation of the results might not be valid for extreme boats.

What is Capsize Screening Formula (CSF)?

The capsize screening value for Nor'Sea 27 is 1.59, indicating that this boat could - if evaluated by this formula alone - be accepted to participate in ocean races.

What is Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed?

The theoretical maximal speed of a displacement boat of this length is 6.4 knots. The term "Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed" is widely used even though a boat can sail faster. The term shall be interpreted as above the theoretical speed a great additional power is necessary for a small gain in speed.

The immersion rate is defined as the weight required to sink the boat a certain level. The immersion rate for Nor'Sea 27 is about 114 kg/cm, alternatively 641 lbs/inch. Meaning: if you load 114 kg cargo on the boat then it will sink 1 cm. Alternatively, if you load 641 lbs cargo on the boat it will sink 1 inch.

Sailing statistics

This section is statistical comparison with similar boats of the same category. The basis of the following statistical computations is our unique database with more than 26,000 different boat types and 350,000 data points.

What is Motion Comfort Ratio (MCR)?

What is L/B (Length Beam Ratio)?

What is Displacement Length Ratio?

What is SA/D (Sail Area Displacement ratio)?

Maintenance

Are your sails worn out? You might find your next sail here: Sails for Sale

If you need to renew parts of your running rig and is not quite sure of the dimensions, you may find the estimates computed below useful.

This section is reserved boat owner's modifications, improvements, etc. Here you might find (or contribute with) inspiration for your boat.

Do you have changes/improvements you would like to share? Upload a photo and describe what you have done.

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Sailboat Guide

1977 Nor'Sea 27 Heritage Marine Nor'Sea 27 CC

Description

Seller's Description

“MONARCA” is a Nor’Sea 27 CC designed by Lyle Hess and built by Heritage Marine. The vessel is a masthead sloop pocket cruiser with center cockpit and an aft cabin. Known as a “Go anywhere heavy weather long distance blue water pocket cruiser”. The Nor’ Sea 27 is built by hand with up to 22 layers of mat and woven roving. The vessel features a 27hp Yanmar diesel for auxiliary power. She has very similar lines to other Lyle Hess designed vessels with a shallow full keel. The large sail area and long waterline provide excellent performance in both light and heavy air. Like all Hess boats, this is a remarkably big boat for her deck length and trailerable as well.

Equipment: Yanmar 3GM30F New 15gal Diesel tank located under V-berth Rocna 30lb anchor 150’ chain 150’ rope Autohelm ST 2400 Tiller Autopilot Garmin GPS echoMAP DV Vesper Marine AIS Transponder Standard Horizon Explorer VHF Radio Balmar DC System Monitor West Marine 20A Dual Battery Charger 100W Solara Flexible solar panel LED Cabin Lights(soft white) 12V Refrigeration w/ top and front access 40 gallon fresh water capacity w/ foot pump Taylor’s Bronze Alcohol 2 burner gimbaled stove/oven Taylor’s Bronze Alcohol space heater Doyle Tanbark Main sail w/built in stack pack and lazy jacks Doyle Tanbark Jib w/ roller furler Portable self-contained head

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
LOA: Length overall in feet
Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

The HERITAGE SUPER 27 later became the CHRYSLER 27 and then the TMI 27.

This listing is presented by SailboatListings.com . Visit their website for more information or to contact the seller.

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1982 Heritage Marine Nor'Sea 27

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SV Jules Verne

Tale of a nor'sea 27, more head work.

You can see the trim for the sliding panels in this photo.

Continuing the renovation of this Nor’Sea 27’s head installation, I started work on the head locker, which consists of a 25×19″ cupboard with sliding doors. The prior owner had begun a modification to fit a 15-gallon polyethylene holding tank on in this locker, and he removed the doors and teak trim and cut a clearance hole in the side of the locker area. I am not sure how the weight of that tank would have worked out, but my plan is to install a Sealand M11 Marine Head with Holding Tank, so I won’t need to take up the locker with a tank. I may install a 6 gallon water heater in there later, but it won’t be anything that big and heavy.

When I cleaned out the boat I saved all the odds and ends, and luckily, I was able to locate the both trim pieces and sliding panel guides. One of the was slightly damaged, but I put that piece facing the away. The panel doors, however, were long gone. I did locate the missing piece of shower pan that had been cut out, and it had a reasonable fit except for the saw kerf. I plan to epoxy that bit back in place and fill the gap in the future.

I knew I definitely didn’t want some flat white sliding doors because I think that’s against the character of the boat, but I did want to get something going, so I thought I would do my best to make some serviceable doors with the intent that I could always replace the panels later if I think of a way to incorporate the rattan doors or something.

I bought some inexpensive paneling to make the doors – I spent just $7 buying some luan plywood 2×4′ piece at Home Depot, and I found some brass door inserts at OSH.

Next, I cut a test panel to make sure I would be able to get the door panels installed in the finished opening. It didn’t need to be full width just tall enough to fit and be sure it would slide freely. The typical design for sliding bypass doors provides runners with a deeper guide on the top than the bottom guide so to be installed, the panel can be pushed up into the top slider with enough clearance to get past the bottom rails and seat into the lower channel. Then it drops down, leaving just enough height in the upper channel to retain the doors. I learned the ideal height was between 19-1/2 and 19-5/8″. The challenge was that my table saw has a 12″ width bed, so I made a remote fence using a stepstool to hold the fence in place.

I cut the two panels at 19-1/2 high and planned the width to have about 1″ overlap. That made each panel 13-1/2″ wide. I made sure to make my cuts to have the grain run vertically and use the best part of the wood.

I test fit the panels in place and it looks promising. We’re looking at what ultimately became the back of the panels. More on that soon.

Teak floormat for the Head

Seen from above: The molded-in shower pan on the right is flat but slightly beveled for drainage

The Nor’sea 27 sailboat (most models) has a fiberglass liner in the head area that has a raised molded-in platform on its aft edge for the head installation, leaving a slightly depressed section on the right as a molded-in tray. Some owners have plumbed in a handheld shower and installed a drain in the tray, which tilts to the front left edge. I haven’t gone that far, but I thought it would be great to have a teak floor to protect the gelcoat in this area, which is prone to water and wear.

I located the same mat later at Bed, Bath and Beyond

Next I flipped it over and cut the other side. I was able to cut fairly cleanly without much chip out. There were some slightly rough edges to touch up with sandpaper, but I wanted to check the fit first.

The last photo shows the mat oiled and installed in the boat. It really makes a big difference in the appearance, and the teak boards will help protect the fiberglass gelcoat from scratches.

Swap Meet at Owl Harbor

I made a trip up near Lodi on Saturday for the annual swap meet at Owl Harbor in Isleton, CA. Unfortunately, it fell on the same day as the Opening Day in Redwood City. I made a few new friends and founds a trove of nautical goodies.

A barometer and ship’s clock from Bruce Baker, both manufactured by Weems & Plath went for $80, with a wood stand. Looking them up online it appears they’re about $800 together. The ship’s clock is electronic, but it does have a nice chime on the hour and I have it set up in the living room. Learning the ship’s bells!
An armload of boat canvas with Eisenglas for $20. This will be handy for fooling around with the sewing machine.
Lifesling cover in good condition for $4 ($34 retail)
15 hp Johnson outboard motor (short shaft) for $150.
Todd Steering Console (center console for 17′ Boston Whaler) for my buddy over in Newark (free!)
Fiberglass repair kit and 3 small bundles of fabric for $10
Cabin door and hatch from a 1967 Chris Cract Constellation for $10 both
5 long curtains and rods for $15
An aluminum Lewmar winch handle (non locking) for $7
Set of LED lights for $10
Halyard for $15
Rucksack for $
BBQ regulator ($30 retail)
Venturi Tube ($30 retail)
Rail mount ($56 retail)
This stuff comes in 39 inch widths for $12 per lineal foot and I have about $80 worth.
10′ of Ancor DC hookup wire for $2
A pair of adjustable collapsible sawhorses $10/both (retail about $25 each at Harbor Freight )
Free gas leaf blower!

Dinette Table for Catalina 27

The dinette table in the Catalina 27 serves the dual purpose of a table and as a fill-in support for the double berth.

Lilikoi’s dinette table is a fifty pound slab of particle board with a cherrywood veneer and nice edges on two sides. It was cobbled together by the prior owner to replace the original table that had probably gotten wet and then broken. It’s held up by a folding 2×4 leg and a couple brackets on one the outboard side. Unfortunately, it’s also prone to falling down when the boat heels or you put any weight on either of the inboard corners.

Although I am selling the boat I figured this is one annoying point that I’d like to correct before selling it. I found a table from a 30′ Coronado sailboat at a boat wrecker in Hayward. It’s 3/4″ ply with a Formica top, folding leg and a nice drawer incorporated underneath. It has nice real teak wood edging. It had approximately the 35″ fore/aft span required, but it must have been designed for a port installation, because as I learned when I took it to the boat and aligned it with on my starboard settee, it fits the hull profile almost perfectly – when it’s upside down!

I removed all the hardware from the table and inverted. It’s about 1/2″ too wide front to rear, so I’ll need to cut back a bit along one edge. If I was smart about it I could have left one edge attached and just trimmed the other! Flipping the board over it has a very good fit but I scribed along the hull edge approximately 1/4″ line that will make it fit more perfectly, and I decided in the quest for perfection to add a 2-1/2″ triangular filler piece to make the table line up with the inboard dinette edge. I guess it would have served, but I like the things I make to fit nice.

Quickest thing would have been to buy a new sheet of 3/4″ ply and cut the top, but in the spirit of this zero cost project (I already invested $50 in the table, after all) I decided to try filling it first. A half sheet of good 3/8″ ply was $22 at home depot, and I would need two to glue together.

I found a roll of Formica laminate in a nice maple wood finish for $4 and I’ll need to pick up some contact cement (spray on $12, pint $17 or half gallon for about $25. I’ll need more for the Nor’sea anyway but I may have some adhesive kicking around home. the Formica is only 30″ wide so I’ll need a seam somewhere; probably right up the middle. I also could do some old boat charts or something under a layer of acrylic, or poured epoxy, but I am selling the thing and can’t get too fancy.

Yesterday I picked up an off-cut 3/4″ plywood scrap that’s 10″ by about six feet and I cut a wedge out of that to make the fill-in. I’ll add a cleat at the wide end (which is forward)to provide some gluing surface to ensure it stays on and screw that in with some 1-1/4″ screws I picked up today at Home Depot. I was at the boat so I cut the wedge with the Jigsaw and it came out clean enough that I believe it will be covered effectively by the teak edge.

To see what height the table would be I balanced it on its brackets and wedged up the foot until it was level abeam, (as determined with the float level that came with the TV bracket). I figure I will need a leg that is 2-7/8″ taller than the existing one. It’s just a tube, maybe even a piece of electrical conduit material with a cap on it.

More to come…

04/10/14 – Extending the table.

marker button (center) placed in a dowel hole can transfer the location of that hole to the mating piece.

In order to get the table shaped to the right dimensions I needed to add a 3″ extension to the forward edge, tapering down to nothing at the inboard aft edge. I found a 1″ piece of cabinet grade wood and trimmed it to size on the boat using a jigsaw. I flipped it around and used the straighter edge against the table.

Using a dowel jig I placed six 3/8″ dowels. The kit was $3 at Harbor Freight and came with the dowels, drill bit and stop, and three marking tools with small points on them. You drill three holes, pop the markers in the holes, line up the wood piece and tap the wood down, and it marks the position of the hole perfectly.

and ready for gluing

The only difficulty is making sure the holes are plumb to the surface so everything lines up properly.

I glued it up, clamped it and let it set for about 3 hours. Only then did I notice that the wood I’d glued on was upside down! I chiseled off the new piece and it was attached so strongly it removed a shimmed on piece of the edge of the table (1/2″) that I didn’t even know was there. Using the chisel I cleaned up the edge redrilled the holes and glued and clamped

Wood glue says to clamp for one hour. I left this overnight.

it again. It was 2:30 AM when I finished!

04/13/2014 – Applying the Formica Laminate

I found a piece of pine colored Formica roll at Restore for $4. It’s 75″ long and 30″ wide. I need 35″ width for the table, so there will be a seam. I decided to position the seam outboard to make it less conspicuous. cut the Formica in half with the saw with counter-rotating blades and it cut through easily, just to get two pieces the approximate size. 30×36 and 12×36.

I positioned the big piece on the able leaving about 29″ on the table and an inch overlap at the inboard edge. You need some material to cut and snap off flush. I marked the perimeter of the table on the underside of the Formica so I’d know where to apply the adhesive, and I added a line to the table to mark the limit of the area I would be gluing. Then I and plastered it up with contact cement using a cheap 5″ foam roller. I used the water base, non explosive kind. I have to say that stuff doesn’t dry as rapidly or stick as hard as the oldschool stinky kind.

After about 30 minutes the cement had dried and was just tacky to the touch. I put some dowels (actually they were bamboo skewers 36″ long from an orchid) on the table and positioned the Formica over the top. Then I removed the skewers and pressed the Formica down, rolling it with a wine bottle and rapping it with a rubber mallet. It stuck everywhere pretty well except the topmost edge, so I put some weight on that. Meanwhile I glued up the last piece and positioned it. I used a heat gun to dry the glue because it was getting cooler toward dusk. This was dried more thoroughly but it never seemed very sticky.

This piece went on more securely.

The table will need to be set about 3″ higher than before, so the pipe foot won’t be long enough. I found a chrome steel shower curtain rod at OSH for 11.99 that can be cut down to size

04/14/2014 – Trimming the laminate

I flipped the table upside down on a 1×4 and scored the edge with a utility knife blade. Then the excess material snapped off easily toward the scored edge, keeping the 1×4 tight against the table. I sanded the sharp edge lightly with some paper.

Next step is to reapply the mahogany trim pieces. Then I can remount the drawer, folding support rod and brackets.

A cockpit grating for Sundance

The aft cabin Nor’sea 27s have a nearly square cockpit that is often fitted with a grate that can be raised and placed in chocks to fill in the cockpit flush with the level of the seating and thereby provide some extra sleeping space.

I have had my eye out for grates and grating materials, and when I attended a boat swap meet in Berkeley last Sunday I got lucky! The sale starts at six and I was out there at 5:45 with a flashlight scoping things out. As the third seller was unloading I found this teak cockpit grille and I was all over it.

I held my breath while I measured it up and was amazed to discover it was just about perfect – an inch longer front to back than I’d need. It’s a few years old, but nothing some glue and clamps can’t fix. I think it’s mahogany and not Teak, though. I won’t know for sure until I sand off the finish.

I believe the sale price was $45 trimmed just a bit from $50. I also bought a few other items from the same seller, including a trawler lamp that needs a new glass chimney.

I’ll update this post when I get the grating cut to size and refinished. Be sure to add to the list of things to take to the swap: cash, want list with measurements, flashlight, tape measure .

Gotta love the boat swaps. This is the place to stretch your boating dollars to the limit, and maybe make a few in the process.

Berkeley Yacht Club holds an annual sale in April and invites people to sell on the lawn and walkways around the marina for about $25 a space. Last year we sold and this year I found some goodies for current and future projects. I put a sample below of some items I bought:

Two tier fiberglass dock step – $40
Nicro solar vent 4″ (not battery backed) – $20
Well used brass Trawler lamp (no chimney or wick) – $55
Gill Boots size 9 – $10
Hand bearing compass $3
Newish porta potty – $10
Used Lifesling – $22 (two vendors were involved here. The case was $2 in fair condition and the Lifesling itself was $20 from another vendor in very good condition)
Folding Prop – $40. It’s a right hand 14″ dia 12 pitch bronze prop.
40 sailing books at $1 each.
2 Finespray faucets. One broken for parts $9
Barient two-handed winch handle (frozen open lock) $15

Take the van; get there early. The best times to buy are right when it opens and when people are getting ready to pack up and cart stuff home.

Shore Power Wiring for Lilikoi – a Catalina 27

Getting Lilikoi ready for sale, I decided one thing that would really help the sale is adding shore power. For the last 40 years this boat has had an extension cord running through the companionway. I figured it’s about time, and I have the parts and an electrical engineering degree, so time to do something about it.

Some adult supervision is important in any project involving electricity

This web photo helped me decide where to place the power entry

Beginning with the shore power inlet, I had a plastic Marinco outlet from the wrecker for $25 and I needed to figure out where to put the inlet.

I did some research on the web and found a boat that had the inlet located below the winch. I checked my boat out and reached under the port berth to where the screw heads are and forward to the proposed area and found it was pretty clear. The Marinco instructions call for a 2-7/8″ hole saw. Right! I found a 3″ saw at Harbor Freight and went to town after looking at the gasket to make sure it would cover a 3″ hole. I taped the proposed plate location and made sure it wouldn’t interfere with winch operation. I wasn’t sure how thick the fiberglass is at that point (turns out to be surprisingly thin at about 1/8″ and it cut through in under 3 minutes. I had been worried that maybe I should get an expensive bimetal hole saw set, but the $10 set did the job fine.

This is the depth of the breaker. I later cut the access out bigger to accommodate a full depth box to contain the wiring

I bought a dual pole 20A breaker set for $5 at a boat wrecker (they typically cost about $100). A trip to home depot to find some suitable wiring boxes. The ones I chose have ears in the front and brackets that tighten against them with a couple of Philips head screws.

The wiring needs to support the size of the breaker, so I was commited then to using more costly 12gauge wire. I decided I absolutely needed power at the Galley and near the Dinnette table (for general use, and about as far as you’d want to run a battery charger cable) It also made sense to have power at the starboard bulkhead for

An outlet in the bulkhead just outboard of the chainplate location faces the dinette and will be a convenient place to plug in TV, table lamp, chargers

the TV and another outlet up in the V berth because that is a dark and scary place. This suggested I run two

using the cubby wall as an outlet location convenient to the dinette table

branches. I drew up a quick diagram and marked the proposed locations with electrical tape. I took full advantage of the wooden cubbies to avoid cutting holes in the fiberglass wherever possible.

In the end I needed to only cut one hole for the shore power inlet. one 1/2″ hole for the wiring to the breaker panel. A rectangular hole for the breaker panel, which I positioned near the existing DC panel, one hole through the bottom of the port bench into the galley cabinet, one rectangular hole in the galley cabinet for the GCFI outlet. In a parallel run the wiring goes over to battery locker to an outlet set in the wooden cubby above the dinette, then through the dinette to the main bulkhead where I mounted a second outlet for the TV and from there through the cubby in the head area to the forward bulkhead, where I positioned the V-berth outlet. The backs of the AC boxes are obscured within the cubbies with the outlets facing out.

Multitool can create square cutouts with zero clearance

I used a multitool to make the cuts, which worked great because of the limited clearances. it would have been close to impossible to cut rectangular holes with the jigsaw

For the Galley I chose to mount the outlet in the side of the cabinetry, accessible to the kitchen without being too close to the sink. I crimped on connectors, Trying ring connectors the first time, but getting wiser when I found the outlets’ screws don’t back out the entire way. An auto wire stripper I found at harbor freight was very helpful. Their crimpers aren’t great, you generally have to use the next smaller size hole (blue for yellow) for a secure connection.

liquid electrical tape is handy for wet locations, sealing securely against moisture.

Over that I used some liquid electrical tape and then installed the outlets in the boxes and screwed on the covers.

Ground Current Fault Interrupt (GCFI) outlets are required for each run. These devices monitor power through them and if more than 30mA or so takes the wrong route, (through your body and wet feet to ground, for instance) they shut off the power in a millisecond. Standard 20A outlets can be used at the other locations but they need to be wired in properly, with grounds, and tested to make sure they are GCFI protected. I found some GCFI outlets at Orchard Supply

six bucks for a 20A GCFI outlet. You betcha. Gotta thank Leviton and Orchard supply.

that were being discontinued. Leviton had made some custom sized outlets designed to work with special décor plates that hide their screws. They didn’t catch on because the devices are nonstandard. the GCFI outlets were going for just $6 and their non GCFI outlets were $3 with the cover plates discounted to a buck. That clinched the decision to install four outlets instead of two!

Repair to a Makita right angle drill

I found one of these Makita right angle drills at the Restore in San Carlos a few months ago for $16. It came with a charger and a couple batteries. The batteries are the older Nickel-Cadmium (NiCd) chemistry, but it so happens my wife picked up a similar straight drill at a yard sale a few months before.

Right angle drills are very useful whenever you’re doing work in close quarters, which abound on a boat. I must have done hours of remodeling with the same model, which I used to own about 20 years ago when it came out. As it turned out the drill didn’t turn, although the batteries charged fine. The problem was the thermal overload relay, the little rectangular fuse with the yellow button would not reset properly and stayed pushed in all the time.

I found the part online for about six bucks, but before I placed the order I made a quick test by shorting out the two electrodes and confirming the drill ran properly. The part came in by post sometime late last year, but I didn’t have the opportunity to get everything together to fix it. Once I did this afternoon it took about 20 minutes. Remove the half dozen black Philips head screws from the drill, carefully separate the case halves, slide out the old thermal cutout and use a soldering iron to carefully remove the old leads and transfer them to the new part with a little finesse, a pair of pliers and a splash of new solder.

The drill is back in commission and I’m looking forward to using it for some upcoming projects, like installing the pine ceiling along the walls of the aft cabin.

Kudos to the Restore folks, by the way. When I informed them the drill didn’t work, Jamie knocked the price of the replacement component off the bill. I paid shipping, and we both came out ahead!

This right angle drill, circa 1982 is a handy one to have on your side in close combat!

Flexiteek / ISITEEK

I’ve often admired the look of teak decks. A pair of our Los Gatos Yacht Club members have a Nautor Swan 44 that has sexy grey teak running the length of the deck. Great footing and beautiful to look at but it can be some effort to maintain. Also the concerns about the expense and weight of teak, the countless holes that might be needed to produce a sprung teak deck, and the conservation issues; it makes you re-think!

Happily, a few European manufacturers have developed some synthetic teak products. Notably, the maker of FLEXITEEK offers in addition to their full service installations where they’ll come out to measure your boat and make templates, or have you send them in. Then they heat weld together the teak material into panels, which they’ll either install or send back to you for installation.

Practical Sailor did an evaluation of the materials from a cost and installation standpoint years ago. Most all of them are tongue and groove installation of material just a fraction of an inch thick that is glued along the tongue and shaped into patterns that conform to the deck. Once connected together like a puzzle, they can be glued down using mastic-ky glue to secure them to the desired locations.

Since that time the cost of anything petroleum based has gone up pretty significantly. I ordered some samples from the Florida-based ISITEEK distributor and show them here. At first glance, even holding the material in your hands, it’s hard to tell it’s not wood. Rather than just giving the surface impression of grain, there’s a fibrous texture that goes all the way through the material. This stuff is available with two colors of “grout” lines, either dark grey or off white. The color is a facsimile of lightly weathered teak material. The material warranty is 5 years.

03-08-2013 Upholstery Fabric

I made a trip over to Ikea to check out some fabrics to see what would go well with the general tone of the interior. They didn’t have any huge variety but I picked up some samples in brown, tan and off white. I decided that the tan and off-white work very well. I didn’t care for the browns at all. Too dark and nasty looking.

I also took some photos of how the cushions were constructed before returning them so I would have some ideas about how to construct the new ones. I decided I do like the top in two layers.

hull #156

Indian harbour beach,fl.

1980 Nor’Sea 27 Hull #156

Boat was purchased in 2016 and outfitted for extended cruise in South Florida and Bahamas. All systems were upgraded for the ease of use, failure free cruising and safety at sea.

Boat is laid-out for single-handed offshore sailing. She is set-up for a cruising couple, but will comfortably accommodate 3 people. With a draft of only 3’ 10”, she is ideal for gunkholing. Being solar powered (DC) only it is freed from shore power (AC) and galvanic corrosion. She has a new engine, drivetrain and new fuel tank installed in 2015.. Her hull has been vinylester and barrier coated and is free of damage and blisters.

SPECIFICATIONS

Designer: Lyle Hess

Design: Aft cockpit

LOA: 31’

LOD: 27’

LWL: 25’

Beam: 8’

Draft: 3’ 10”

Displacement: 8100 lbs

Ballast: 3100 lbs (lead)

Fuel: 23 U.S. gal

Water: 30 gal

Headroom: 6’ 1”

Mast above

waterline: 42’ 7”

Engine: Beta 16 (2015)

Engine hrs: 213

CABIN LAYOUT

The interior is lined completely with wood in a combination of teak, holly, sugar pine, cherry, and black walnut. Artificial light is provided by overhead LED fixtures and 4 LED reading lights. There are 6 bronze opening ports with screens, as well as screens for the forward hatch and companionway. The dinette table can be lowered to create a single berth, or, raised and secured against the overhead to provide additional interior space while underway. Additional ventilation can be provided by a Windscoop or Carry-On 700 air conditioner over the forward hatch

Origo non pressurized cooking stove with gimball (New in April 2019)

Propane tank removed from outside storage trunk but still avalable

SS double sink with whale foot pump (new replaced in 2019) for fresh water

Manual hand pump for sea water available currently disconnected (extra spare hose for all the water connections)

Heavily insulated icebox

Tiled countertop

WATER SYSTEM

Water system is based around brand new water maker installed in 2019. Cruise RO system is capable of producing 20 gallons of fresh water per hour and is powered by brand new 2200 honda generator

Extensive inventory of filters and chemicals to run and maintain watermaker for years.

Original water tanks were removed to provide extra storage space (but are still available). Replacement tanks are based on NATO approved Scepter 5 gallon water cans stored on the deck and in Galley.

PUR model 80E2 spare 12v water maker (not used by current owner is available)

DECK AND RIGGING

Molded non-skid deck and cabin top

Double lifelines

Bow and stern pulpits

Teak bowsprit with dual anchor rollers (new in 2019)

Stern pulpit with custom anchor and outboard motor mounts

Teak propane locker on foredeck

4 Harken self-tailing winches

All lines led to cockpit and winches via teak stand-up and organizer blocks, rope clutches, cam cleats

Storm trysail track on mast

Separate halyards for main, jib, storm trysail, and spinnaker (or drifter-reacher)

Two aluminum whisker/spinnaker poles on custom cabin-top mounts

Profurl roller-furling headstay

Mast Climber

Sunbrella covers (2015) for mainsail, cockpit (bimini, incl. side panels), foredeck (awning), blocks, windlass, propane locker, companionway cover hood, cockpit instrument panel, tiller-rudder cheeks; also control-line organizer/storage bags

North Sails fully battened mainsail (2011)

North Sails 150% genoa (2011) with UV wrap (on furler)

Additional sail inventory:

In fair condition

In very good or like-new condition

Storm trysail

Drifter/reacher (fully rigged)

Spinnaker with ATN sock

GROUND TACKLE

Simpson-Lawrence manual windlass

Primary New 44 lbs Spade 100 anchor on135 feet 5/16" high test galvanized all chain rode (both purchased new in 2019)

Secondary New 33 lbs Spade 80 anchor with paddded storage bag

Small folding grapnel anchor for dinghy

OLD ANCHORS

25 lb CQR anchor on bow with 200’ ½” 3-strand nylon and 20’ 5/16” G4 chain (2014)

7.5 kg Bruce anchor on stern pulpit

Fatty Knees 8 foot Lyle hass design fiberglass sailing dinghy

set of wooden oars

full sailing equipment

2019 new SUZUKI 1hp outboard w tiller extension

BOARDING LADDER

SS step-away boarding ladder on starboard side

(New engine, drivetrain, and fuel tank installed 2014)

New Beta 16 hp (213 hours) with 70 Amp alternator

New 2014 propeller shaft

New 2014 PYI dripless shaft seal

New 2014 “sailor” 3-bladed fixed propeller

New 2014 instrument panel and throttle controls

New 23 gal aluminum fuel tank - Tank was completely emptied, washed and cleaned. All the BUNA seals were replaced on inspection ports 2019. Not a drop of water was found in tank 4 years after the instal. All the fuel was filtered and polished.

Boat comes with tank cleaning diesel fuel polishing kit built with 12v pump and Racor/Parker fitler.

Extra spare filters for diesel fuel, both primary and secondary, air filter.

All the meintanance fluids (new in 2019 coolant, oil, both for diesel and gas outboard engine)

Water pump spare impellers.

Diesel treatment Biobor and Star Tron for few hundred gallons of fuel purchased in 2019

BILGE PUMPS

Whale manual bilge pump in cockpit (new 2015)

Rule 25D, 500 gph pump in bilge (new 2014)

Rule 25D brand new spare

Brand new replacement hoses for both bilge pumps + vent loops

NAVIGATION/STEERING

Laminated teak and mahogany tiller; mahogany rudder cheeks

Monitor wind vane with extra spare parts and blades

Garmin 441s chartplotter (2014)

Danforth bulkhead compass in cockpit

Navigation lights were inspected fully reconditioned or replaced. All bulbs are 12 v marine LED (numerous spares for all the lights)

Extra portable 12v deck anchor light

Raymarine Autohelm tiller mount autopilot X 2

Binoculars: Steiner manufactured for West Marine 7x50

2 x 55 W solar panels (Renogy 2019) adjustably mounted on stern pulpit on custom SS tracking poles (2019)

Victron solar MPPT charge controller with blue tooth connectivity

Victron remote temp sensor with blue tooth connectivity

Spare Morningstar SunSaverDuo dual battery solar charge controller with remote in cabin (2015)

New 2019 battery monitor from BALMAR with blue tooth connectivity

Blue Sea Systems 7611 Battery Link Automatic Charging Relay, 120A, 12V/24V DC

All new battery cables and wires (ANCOR marine tinned and oversized for all aplications) All the connections made with waterproof marine grade connectors.

New 12v and USB high speed charging receptacles

New ANCOR battery selector switch with key access (spare keys)

MRBF ignition protected fuses on all major connections

70 Amp alternator on engine

2019 STERLING 60amp battery charger

3 x 92 Ah group 27 AGM batteries (2 house, 1 start replaced in 2015)

New 2019 BLUE SEAS 12 Volt electrical panel in cabin

2019 new LED dome lighting

PUR model 80E2 spare 12v water maker (not used by current owner but available)

Carry-On 700 air conditioner with overboard condensate drain

12 Volt low pressure high volume hookah with diving regulator for hull inspection/cleaning

ELECTRONICS

Garmin 441s chartplotter and depth sounder (2014)

Garmin 267 waterproof portable GPS

Uniden Solara VHF radio

2019 IC-93D ICOM slim floating hand held VHF marine transceiver with DCS

2019 High quality TECSUN PL-880 FM/AM SSB receiver - allowed us to receive Chris Parker detailed weather forecast

2019 new KONG DOUBLE LINE ORC TETHER x 2

Current and Coast Guard compliant fire extinguishers x 2 (purchased in 2019)

Coast Guard required/compliant safety equipment

Original EZ Load triple axle. Needs some work

ACCESSORIES

Custom supports/ jigs for mast raising/lowering/transporting

Equipment manuals, maintenance/upgrade records, owners’ notes, systems and how-to diagrams

Winter boat cover

Engine maintenance items

Dishes, cups, bowls in custom galley racks

Docking lines

Winch handles

Bottomsider high-density foam cockpit cushions

Custom filler boards to convert cockpit to sleeping platform

Lifesling overboard rescue package

QUESTIONS/CONTACT

COMMENTS

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1980 Nor'Sea 27 Hull #156. Boat was purchased in 2016 and outfitted for extended cruise in South Florida and Bahamas. All systems were upgraded for the ease of use, failure free cruising and safety at sea. Boat is laid-out for single-handed offshore sailing. She is set-up for a cruising couple, but will comfortably accommodate 3 people.
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