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Electric Sailboat Motor: Range, Cost, Best Kits for Conversion

Today, owning a completely green sailboat has been made possible with electric sailboat motors.

Imagine cruising with the silence of an electric sailboat motor and the ease of use with a simple press on the start button. What’s better is there are no exhaust fumes at all with significantly less maintenance.

It’s so appealing that a lot of sailing liveaboards have made their electric sailboat motor conversion.

However, some sailors are still on the fence, worrying about the range and price of the electric sailboat motor.

If you are one of them, you are in the right place!

This post will guide you through every aspect you need to know about electric sailboat motors to help you make an informed decision.

Besides, you will get professional insights on how to make the electric sailboat motor conversion for your own boat and learn the best electric sailboat motors (with honest reviews).

Table of contents:

• Electric Sailboat Motors: Confusion Explained

Electric Sailboat Motor or Combustion Motor

• Electric Yacht Motor Conversion: Two Solutions
• How to Size an Electric Sailboat Motor

Best Electric Sailboat Motors (with Reviews)

Electric Sailboat Motor: Confusion Explained

Can you go cruising with an electric sailboat motor? Can you put an electric motor on a sailboat? Are there any limitations?

Whether electric sailboat motors are a good fit for your boat is not a YES or NO question. Here we will explain your top worries with statistics and facts. That way, you can make a wise decision according to your situation.

You may hear some complaints about the batteries and range of the electric propulsion.

However, their experience may not suit electric sailboat motors.

In fact, even small electric engines work pretty well in many sailboats. That’s because most of the time, the wind can power the boat, and the motor is just used for docking or in rare times when there is no wind.

Therefore, it makes more sense to learn electric sailboat motor performance in real-world applications.

Here is a test report of a 3 HP electric sailboat motor on an RS21 racing sailboat:

As you can see, the small electric sailboat motor can run at 5.5 mph top speed for one hour continuously.

And there is a big difference in terms of range vs speed for electric sailboat motors:

If you lower the speed, the range and runtime can be greatly extended. The slower you go, the further you’ll get. For example, if you cut your speed in half, the electric sailboat motor can last 7 hours and go 20 miles within one charge.

That’s pretty sufficient if you use the electric yacht motor mostly for docking or as an auxiliary engine.

Faster top speed (and more range) is available with higher power electric sailboat motors depending on your specific requirements. Contact a specialist to design your electric sailboat motor solutions.

Also, don’t forget to get the electric sailboat motor with regeneration (See recommendations below).

That’s to say, when there is a lot of wind and you’re moving rapidly via your sails, they regenerate and store electric power on the batteries to keep you moving at other times. Solar recharging is also a plus.

Essentially, the range depends on how many batteries you have, so it’s not a limitation of electric sailboat motors but energy and batteries.

If you are still worried, you can offset this by getting a diesel generator, which is more efficient than a diesel engine. And it is a range extender when you need it, but for 90% of your motoring that you don’t need the range, you can rely on the electric sailboat motor.

Some of you might be concerned about the extra weight of the batteries.

In fact, an electric sailboat motor with lithium batteries weighs less than a diesel engine, particularly if you include the fuel weight.

If you want a lightweight electric sailboat motor solution, make sure you get one with LiFePO4 batteries . Compared with other marine batteries, they are more compact in design with much less weight and higher energy density.

Some more advanced electric motors for small sailboats (such as Spirit 1.0 Evo) feature an integrated lightweight battery. So you don’t need to worry about the complex wiring to hook it up or extra space to store the battery.

This is a huge plus if you want to use the electric sailboat motor on a tender or dinghy.

Here is also a chart that collects the weight of some popular electric sailboat motors for your reference:

For many people, another big problem with electric sailboat motors is the cost.

It’s true that a gasoline outboard with similar power is a lot cheaper to buy. However, the electric sailboat motor eventually wins in long-term operating cost. That’s especially the case if you are going to do a lot of motoring.

Electric sailboat motors save on fuel and maintenance costs, which can build up to a large amount over time.

Here is a chart that compares the cost of a 3HP electric sailboat motor (coming with a built-in battery) with its combustion counterpart:

That’s to say, you will cover the price difference for electric yacht motors eventually as long as you use it long enough. Click to check the details of the calculation .

What makes the electric sailboat motor even more worthwhile is it saves you a lot of hassles, especially for sailors who only use the engine in and out of the harbor. Dealing with the maintenance of the gas outboard for a 10 minute motor out of and into the harbor is disproportionate and painful.

*The higher horsepower electric sailboat motor may be different in terms of the cost calculation. Check out the outboard motor pricelist by HP for more information.

As you may have already noticed, electric propulsion has already been widely used in the marine industry:

It’s quiet while motoring, clean to handle, environmentally friendly, with less maintenance and operation costs.

The electric sailboat motors are easier to use with dramatically fewer moving parts to break and no worries about being a diesel mechanic to deal with the hard pulling start. You can have it always on, so it is ready whenever you need it.

And it makes even more sense in sailing applications:

You don’t really need to motor much if your plan is to actually sail. If you are completely becalmed, you will probably just need to motor at 2 knots to keep making way, which is easy for electric sailboat motors.

If you mostly use the motor to get into and out of the harbor, the electric sailboat motor also works great for you.

You can always charge up at the dock, motor out of the marina (or even motor to your sailing area or race start), then hoist the sails and when you’re through, the batteries are charged again.

The electric sailboat motor is also useful as a backup (kicker) motor in case your system goes down. That’s why you can see people pushing a lot of big boats with small electric motors. (Click to learn more information about kicker motors .)

Personally, it’s really nice to have an electric auxiliary in the boat – no smelly, messy diesel and motor oil to deal with, a much simpler system with less maintenance, and much, much quieter operation.

However, powerboats tend to have much higher requirements in terms of both power output and runtime. In that case, an electric sailboat motor can be hard to satisfy your needs.

How Do You Size an Electric Motor for a Sailboat?

As a rule of thumb, you will need approximately 1 HP per 550 lb of the displacement of your boat.

Generally speaking, a 3 HP electric sailboat motor can push a sailboat up to 25 ft and a 9.9 HP motor is sufficient for a 30 ft sailboat to motor at a satisfying speed.

However, bear in mind the horsepower you need always depends on your needs and applications.

It’s better to check the data from real-world tests to decide whether the electric sailboat motor is suitable for your specific needs.

For example, the 9.9 HP electric sailboat motor Navy 6.0 allows you to go at 6.9 mph (11.1 kph) on a 30 ft sailboat, and the range can be extended to 46.4 miles if you decrease your speed to 2.9 mph (4.6 kph).

Click to see more test reports with other electric motor and sailboat combinations, and find the electric sailboat motor that suits you best.

If you are still not sure about the size of the electric sailboat motor for you, feel free to leave us a comment and we will get back to you ASAP with professional suggestions.

Electric Sailboat Motor Conversion

Basically, there are two ways for you to convert your sailboat to a clean and quiet electric drive system:

You can either convert your current vessel to electric or buy an engineless yacht and install an electric sailboat motor on your own.

#1. Repower Your Sailboat with Electric Motor

If you decide to replace the diesel engine with an electric motor, you will need to do a lot of preparations:

The DIY approach requires an electric sailboat motor kit (including motor and controller), batteries, a good level of mechanical ability and basic electrical knowledge, as well as some common tools such as a voltmeter.

You will need to take the old engine out for the new electric sailboat motor installation. It’s not an easy task that involves removing the engine mounts and the drive shaft (dealing with the numerous hoses and cables), taking out the engine, exhaust system, fuel tank, and its attendant tubes, etc.

Remember to balance the boat to avoid listing during the electric sailboat motor conversion.

Then in with the new electric sailboat motor. The installation process can be straightforward if you choose the electric sailboat motor kit wisely (See steps below). Furthermore, you can set up solar charging for your electric sailboat motor with solar panels and charger.

Many sailors have recorded their electric sailboat motor conversion process and experience. Be sure to check them out to get some inspiration. For example, Ed Phillips has documented everything which can serve as a guide for newbies to get started.

Mind you there can be a whole heap that can go wrong in designing and maintaining the electric sailboat motor systems. You really need to be totally on top of it if you want decent performance or reliability.

If you are not that technically inclined, it’s better to talk to a specialist first to discuss your plan for a smooth electric sailboat motor conversion.

#2. Install an Electric Motor in a Sailboat

If you own an enginless sailboat, the electric sailboat motor conversion is much easier for you.

All you need to do is to find a reliable electric sailboat motor and install it in simple steps. The whole process can be easily done, even for beginners. Here we take the popular 6 HP electric sailboat motor Navy 3.0 as an example to show you the installation process:

• Step 1 : Rotate the clamps or use the screws to fix the outboard onto the sailboat.
• Step 2: Mount the steering system in the proper position.
• Step 3: Install the tiller on the electric sailboat motor.
• Step 4: Connect the batteries to the electric sailboat motor system.

Click to check the video tutorial that guides you through each step of the installation.

If you are worried about aesthetic issues and want higher horsepower options, an electric inboard motor can be a better suit for your sailboat. If you prefer an inboard motor for your sailboat, contact our OEM team to get an electric propulsion solution tailored to your needs.

Note : You might find some electric trolling motors rated by #s of thrust on the market. Actually, those electric trolling motors for sailboats can only provide limited speed and range. If you are heading into the wind, the trolling motors for sailboats are definitely not an ideal solution.

Once you’ve evaluated if electric sailboat motors are right for you, there are a lot of options for electric systems.

Here are some popular electric sailboat motors with positive reviews from customers worldwide. Fast charger is available for all the models recommended to reduce your charging stress.

#1. 3 HP Spirit 1.0 Evo

If you are looking for an electric motor for a small sailboat, be sure to check out the ePropulsion Spirit 1.0 Evo. It’s suitable for large daysailers or small cruising sailboats under 25 ft.

With the Spirit 1.0 Evo electric sailboat motor, you can go 5.5 mph (8.8 kph) at top speed on the 21 ft RS21 sailing boat, or troll for 20 hours continuously at 2.2 mph (3.5 kph) according to our test .

This electric sailboat motor with regeneration allows you to recover energy from the prop while under sail. It will start to generate power automatically when the sailing speed reaches 2 knots.

As an electric auxiliary sailboat motor, it can also be easily installed on your tender boats or yacht dinghies since it’s portable and easy to transport (with a lightweight integrated battery).

Features You Will Love:

• Come with the industry-first hydrogeneration capability
• Direct-drive technology makes it maintenance-free
• Portable with a 1276Wh large integrated lithium battery for long range
• Safety wristband keeps you safe in case of MOB
• Digital operation keeps you informed of the battery status

Spirit 1.0 Evo Electric Sailboat Motor Reviews:

“Great weekend with my 17′ sailboat powered by the Spirit Evo. This is great. Quiet and reliable. Went at 3/4 throttle for about 1.5hrs when taking it back to boat ramp.” – Robert Taylor

“Very happy with our Spirit Plus. Pushing our Kolibri 560 a 750 Kg sailboat, with ease. Doing about 5.8 km/h at 500W.” – Frank van Asten

#2. 6HP/9.9 HP Navy Evo Series

If you want a little more juice on the electric sailboat motor, check out the ePropulsion Navy Series. It offers 6 HP and 9.9 HP models for your selection and it provides sufficient power for sailboats up to 30 ft.

According to our test , the 6 HP electric motor Navy 3.0 can push the Catalina 25 sailboat (25 ft) at 6 mph (9.6 kph) top speed, while the Olga 33 sailboat (33 ft) can go at 7.5 mph (12 kph) with the 9.9 HP Navy 6.0 motor.

The Navy series electric sailboat motor also comes with regeneration features which can be recharged with hydrogeneration, wind turbine, and solar panel.

• Four controls to fit your sailboat installation and your boating style
• Accompany LiFePO4 batteries (need separate purchase) are more energy efficient
• Digital display offers real-time monitoring of the power and battery
• Magnetic kill switch and safety wristband keep you safe on the boat
• Electric start saves you trouble pulling the cord to start

Navy Series Electric Sailboat Motor Reviews:

“I have a Navy 3.0 with E80 on a Catalina 25 sailboat. It is working well. Currently I am using about 4% battery to go in/out of the marina by boat.” – Aaron Young

“Just finished my 8 weeks sailing journey in the Baltic Sea. The two Navy 3 outboards provide enough power for my 33ft catamaran. The 400W solar panels provided enough energy for engines and all other energy consumed on board with 2-6 persons. The two Navy Batteries provide power for engines and all other on-board electric devices. I never had to use shore power, so totally self-sufficient electric system.” – Martin Hildebrand

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Instant High Torque

Electric motors are in constant ‘stand by’ mode; you can engage the control lever at any time for instant forward or reverse propulsion.

Electric motors achieve instant torque with Electromotive Force while internal combustion engines need to build RPMs gradually by increasing piston firing frequency.

Hydro Generation

At sailing speeds over 6 knots Oceanvolt systems are able to generate significant power for recharging the battery bank by activating at the touch of a button.

Power regeneration increases exponentially with each additional knot of speed.

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Oceanvolt highly skilled technical team ensures proper installation and system-optimization.  Only the highest quality Li-Ion batteries are used - to ensure performance and safety.

For those interested in a hybrid solution, generators are a highly efficient way to extend range while at sea.

DC generators have the advantage of rapid recharging capability.

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Battery recharging is accomplished with shore connection, hydro generation (an integrated part of all Oceanvolt systems) and/or solar panels.

In Hybrid solutions , a generator (either AC or DC) can be used to recharge batteries / extend motoring range.

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It is essential that all system components are properly selected and installed.

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Home » Blog » Gear » Buyers guide to electric boat motors (2023)

Buyers guide to electric boat motors (2023)

By Author Fiona McGlynn

Posted on Last updated: August 3, 2023

Considering making the switch to an electric boat motor? With electric vehicles now commonplace on the roads, it’s no wonder so many boaters are curious about electric boats.

While electric boat motors have been around for a while, in the last several years the technology has taken huge leaps, resulting in more powerful motors, longer-lasting batteries, and ultimately more options for recreational boat owners.

Today, many types of boats can be outfitted with an electric propulsion system including pontoon boats, sailboats, jon boats, powerboats, fishing boats, yachts, and trawlers . If your boat’s combustion engine is in the range of 1 to 135 hp (.75 to 100 kW), you should be able to find an electric substitute.

While electric boating hasn’t gone mainstream—it’s estimated that close to 2% of recreational boats are electric—it’s still a great time to be thinking about making the switch, particularly if you own a tender, sailboat, or boat on a green lake where combustion engines are prohibited.

Table of contents

• 1.1 Benefits
• 1.2 Drawbacks
• 2.1.1 Key features of electric outboard boat motors
• 2.1.2 Electric outboard manufacturers
• 2.2.1 DIY electric inboard boat motor conversion
• 2.2.2 Key features of electric inboard boat motors
• 2.2.3 Electric inboard manufacturers
• 2.3.1 Serial vs. parallel hybrids
• 2.3.2 Key features of marine hybrids
• 2.3.3 Marine hybrid manufacturers
• 2.4.1 Electric pod and sail drive manufacturers
• 3 Batteries
• 4 Ready to catch the electric boating wave?

Benefits and drawbacks of electric boat motors

Electric marine motors offer several advantages over internal combustion engines:

• They’re completely silent .
• No noxious fumes or smelly exhaust gases to deal with.
• Instant torque.  Electric propulsion provides instant torque, giving you better maneuverability and more consistent speeds in choppy conditions.
• Lightweight.  An electric setup (including motor, batteries, and generator) typically weighs less than its diesel counterpart.
• No fuel cost.  Charging an electric boat may cost a couple of dollars per charge.
• Easy to maintain.  Imagine the maintenance on an outboard with no gas, spark plugs, or oil! Electric motors are simple, more reliable, and virtually maintenance-free.
• Renewable power.  Once you’ve gone electric you can get power from renewable sources like wind generators and solar panels.
• Better for the planet.  Electric marine motors don’t produce water pollution or produce harmful emissions like carbon dioxide (CO2), nitrogen oxides (NOx), and hydrocarbon (HC).

• Range.  The greatest drawback of electric boats is their limited range, which is often measured in the 10s of miles. Range is limited because batteries don’t have the same energy density as fuel — they can’t provide the same energy, pound-for-pound as a tank of gas. A good battery monitoring system, one that displays the remaining range in real-time, can help boaters manage energy consumption and ease range anxiety. For those who want to go farther afield, hybrid propulsion may be a better option.
• Upfront cost.  This new technology isn’t cheap. For example, a small electric outboard boat motor may sell for two-and-a-half times the cost of a gas outboard. However, prices are expected to come down as the industry reaches scale.

Types of electric boat motors

Electric outboard boat motors.

Some of the first electric outboards to hit the recreational boating market were smaller electric motors, typically used as trolling motors on fishing boats.

Today,  it’s possible to buy far more powerful electric outboard motors in the 1 to 80 hp (.75 to 60 kW) range , with ever more powerful versions hitting the market each year. In 2022, Norwegian start-up, Evoy launched the world’s most powerful outboard to date, the 225kW Storm, a 300-hp beast of an electric outboard! 

The range on electric outboard boat motors varies dramatically depending on your boat, total weight, propellor, and battery capacity .

The range also depends on how fast you want to travel. If you go slowly you’ll have a much greater range.

For instance, at a slow speed (5 knots) Torqeedo’s Deep Blue 50R , a 50 kW motor (80 hp equivalent) with a 40 kWh battery, has a listed range of 33-100 nm. But at full throttle (20-25 knots), the listed range drops to 16-20 nm.

To get a better sense of what range to expect on your boat (at both low and high speeds), you can look at the manufacturer’s website. See our list of electric outboard brands below.

One of the great things about electric outboards is that they can use renewable power sources. So, for instance, you could plug your boat into a portable solar panel while picnicking and get an extra boost for the trip home.

Some electric outboard boat motors can even generate power! Motors with hydro regeneration capabilities can charge the batteries while the boat is being towed or under sail.

While hydro regeneration is a fairly new feature for electric outboards, some manufacturers, like EPropulsion, are offering it across their outboard product line.

Key features of electric outboard boat motors

Each electric outboard motor brand has slightly different standard offerings and add-on features. Here are some of the key features and options to look for.

• Waterproof.  Some electric outboards are fully sealed and designed to withstand immersion
• Remote controls. Choose between tiller and remote throttle controls
• On-board computers . Some electric outboards come with chartplotter connectivity, navigation functions, sonar, GPS anchoring, and autopilot features
• Built-in or stand-alone batteries.  Some of the smaller motors come with built-in batteries, while the larger ones have separate battery packs
• Battery monitoring and tracking systems  that calculate and display the remaining range in real-time
• Shaft length.  Electric outboards come in both short and long shaft lengths to accommodate a variety of applications.
• Hydro regeneration capabilities 

Electric outboard manufacturers

These electric outboard boat motor manufacturers (listed in alphabetical order) range from small startups to large companies and serve the North American market.

If you’re looking to learn more about what each of these companies offers (and how they compare) I’d highly recommend checking out the  Plugboats’ electric outboard guides and directories . Jeff Butler, the editor at Plugboats has done a great job of compiling motor specifications from across the market.

Headquartered in San Diego, California,  Bixby  makes a small electric motor system for kayaks, inflatable boats, canoes, and paddleboards.

Elco  has been building electric motors for 125 years and counts the likes of Henry Ford and Thomas Edison among their customers. Their award-winning electric marine motors range from 5 to 50 hp. The company is based in Lake George, New York, and its electric motors can be found on boats around the world.

Flux Marine

Flux Marine was founded by mechanical engineering Princeton grads and offers three outboard models—a 40 hp, 70 hp, and 100 hp. In 2021, they won an award for the best new green product at the Newport International Boat Show.

Joe Grez, a consumer product developer from Washington, invented the  EP Carry , a compact, ultralight electric outboard system because he was concerned about exposing his young daughter to the carbon monoxide (CO) emissions produced by gas outboards.

The EP Carry retails for $1,600 and is a great size for small vessels like dinghies, canoes, inflatable boats, and kayaks.

ePropulsion

ePropulsion , based in Guangdong, China, manufactures 3 to 9.9-hp electric motors for sailboats, fishing boats, as well as dinghies and tenders. They all come with hydro regeneration capabilities.

Mercury Marine launched the Avator 7.5 electric outboard (3.5 hp equivalent) in early 2023. The leading outboard manufacturer is currently developing more powerful 20e and 35e models which it plans to release later this year.

In 2023, Newport , a well-known US-based inflatable boat manufacturer, launched three small outboards ranging from 1.8 to 3 hp.

If you’re into fishing, you’re probably familiar with the Minn Kota  name, derived from MINNesota North DaKOTA, prime fishing country where the company has its roots. They introduced their first electric trolling motor back in 1934 and they’ve been making them ever since.

Pure Watercraft

Pure Watercraft  was founded by CEO Andy Rebele in Seattle in 2011. Their 25 kW (50 hp) motor starts at $16,500.

Ray Electric Outboards

Ray Electric Outboards is a 3rd generation family-owned business based in Cape Coral, Fl. They manufacture one outboard model that can be operated at different power ratings ranging from 10 to 22 hp.

Stealth Electric Outboards

The 50 and 75-hp  Stealth electric outboards  were developed by Scott Masterston of Houston, Texas.

German manufacturer,  Torqeedo , has been leading the propulsion industry for years and sells some of the best e outboard motors in the 1 to 80-hp range

Vision Marine Technologies  (formerly The Canadian Electric Boat Company). 

Based in Quebec, Canada,  Vision Marine Technologies  has been in the boating industry for 25 years and produced some very innovative electric boats. In 2021, they launched E-Motion 180E, one of the most powerful electric outboards on the market.

Electric inboard boat motors

Today’s electric inboard motors can provide anywhere from  3- to a whopping 330 hp (2 to 246 kW)  and are used in a range of applications from heavy displacement vessels to fast, planing powerboats.

Similar to outboards, the range on electric inboard engines will vary based on your boat, load, battery capacity, and boat speed (among other things).

However, with an inboard electric boat motor, you have the option of a hybrid motor which can significantly extend your range. We’ll discuss the pros and cons of hybrid boat motors later in this post.

Sailors may also want to consider choosing an inboard electric motor with hydro regeneration capabilities. These electric power motors can charge the battery while the boat is under sail.

DIY electric inboard boat motor conversion

One way to save money on an electric inboard is to do the installation yourself. There are a few DIY electric inboard boat motor conversion kits available on the market.

I’ve spoken with a few sailors who’ve had great success replacing their inboard diesel engines with these electric boat motor conversion kits from  Thunderstruck-EV , an electric drive manufacturer in Santa Rosa, California.

Key features of electric inboard boat motors

Each brand has a slightly different set of electric inboard motor options. Here are some of the key features and options to look for.

• DIY conversion kits
• On-board computers  and touchscreen display
• Waterproof  system components

Electric inboard manufacturers

US manufacturer, Elco Motor Yachts , has been building electric motors for over 125 years, having gotten their start in 1893, supplying electric boats for the Chicago World’s Fair. They have seven inboards ranging from 6 to 200 hp.

Electric Yacht

Electric Yacht  is a US supplier focused on providing plug-and-play electric motors for DIY installations on sailboats. Their electric propulsion systems range from 10 to 30. They’ve had over 450 installs in 10 years of production.

Oceanvolt  is a leader in regenerative systems and their electric inboard motors are popular among sailors. They offer shaft drive systems ranging from 6 to 60 hp.

Torqeedo, a German manufacturer, is the world’s leader in electric boat motors. They have two lines of inboards, one for displacement boats and another for fast planing boats. Their Deep Blue inboard systems range from 25 kW to 100 kW (40 to 135 hp)

Hybrid systems

Hybrid systems combine an electric motor and combustion engine, so you can cruise in silence (but know you’ve got enough gas to get home). These systems offer  many of the benefits of pure electric motors, without the limited range. 

If you want  additional power for onboard luxuries  like air-conditioning, hybrids can also provide a significant increase in house-side fuel efficiency.

The downside to any hybrid solution is that the systems are far more complex . Not only do they require more equipment, but, for an optimized system, you’ll need highly sophisticated software to manage multiple power sources and switch back and forth between diesel and electric.

Unsurprisingly, the increased complexity adds cost, making hybrids less economical than either a conventional or pure electric install.

Serial vs. parallel hybrids

As with cars, there are  two types of hybrid systems: serial and parallel.  A serial hybrid uses a generator to power a large electric motor connected to the drive shaft. Whereas, a parallel hybrid has both a conventional combustion engine and a small electric motor connected to the drive shaft.

There are plenty of factors to consider when choosing between a parallel and serial system. Marine mechanics and electrical expert, Nigel Calder, does a great job of explaining  serial and parallel hybrids  in detail.

In general, serial systems may be a better fit for boats that can get most of their propulsion energy from renewable sources (e.g., a sailing catamaran). Whereas, a parallel system makes more sense on boats that regularly require sustained propulsion (e.g.,  Greenline’s power yachts ).

Key features of marine hybrids

• Parallel and serial hybrid options
• Integrated energy management  systems

Marine hybrid manufacturers

Elco motor yachts.

Elco  manufactures serial, parallel, as well as a combined serial-parallel system. Their systems can be used on sailboats, trawlers, yachts, and boats up to 85′ feet.

Hybrid Marine Ltd.

Hybrid Marine  sells parallel hybrid systems in the 10 to 230 hp range. Beta, John Deere, and Yanmar’s hybrids all incorporate Hybrid Marine technology.

Finnish manufacturer,  Oceanvolt , offers serial hybrid systems for both sailboats and powerboats.

Torqeedo  makes hybrid systems for yachts up to 120 feet as well as powerful motorboats.

Electric pod drive and sail drive

Several manufacturers are now making electric pod and sail drives. These electric drive systems are more efficient and can save space onboard.

Electric pod and sail drive manufacturers

Electric Yacht  produces a range of sail drives that can replace diesel engines up to 75 hp.

propulsion  sells a 3 hp, 6 hp, and 9.9 hp fixed pod drive.

Oceanvolt’s  sail drives range from 6 kW to 15 kW (8 to 20 hp)

Torqeedo  sells a 40 hp and 80 hp equivalent electric sail drive as well as electric pod drives in the 6 to 25 hp range.

While it’s possible to power an electric motor with a conventional lead-acid battery, there are many  good reasons to upgrade to lithium-ion batteries.

Their increased usable  capacity is roughly double  what you can get out similarly sized lead-acid battery. More battery capacity means more range—and hours of fun—on your electric boat.

They also  charge more quickly  and have a  longer life span  than lead-acid batteries. Unlike flooded lead-acid batteries, which need to be watered, lithium-ion batteries are practically maintenance-free.

The downside is that lithium-ion batteries are far  more temperature-sensitive  and can’t be charged much above 113 F (45 C) or below 32 F (0 C).

They  can also present major safety issues . Lithium-ion batteries can go into what’s known as thermal runaway—a self-heating process that can cause the battery to catch fire.

Simply put,  lithium-ion batteries are NOT a drop-in substitute for lead-acid batteries.  They need to be specially designed for the marine environment and paired with a robust battery management system.

Electric motor manufacturers often provide complete solutions (including motor, batteries, and battery management system). It’s a good idea to work with a manufacturer with extensive marine experience and an ABYC-certified technician on any installation.

The other catch is that lithium-ion batteries  cost two to four times   as much as lead-acid  batteries. However, the increased capacity and longer life span may make lithium batteries a better value option over the long run.

Ready to catch the electric boating wave?

With ever more powerful and feature-packed electric options launching each year, it’s an exciting time to be in the market for a new motor or engine. If you have any doubts about whether an electric boat motor is right for you, head to your local boat show and see, first hand, what all the buzz is about.

Fiona McGlynn is an award-winning boating writer who created Waterborne as a place to learn about living aboard and traveling the world by sailboat. She has written for boating magazines including BoatUS, SAIL, Cruising World, and Good Old Boat. She’s also a contributing editor at Good Old Boat and BoatUS Magazine. In 2017, Fiona and her husband completed a 3-year, 13,000-mile voyage from Vancouver to Mexico to Australia on their 35-foot sailboat.

Douglas McQuilken

Sunday 30th of January 2022

Great article!

For those who wish to collaborate with prospective & current electric boaters, highly recommend this forum - https://groups.io/g/electricboats

Thanks for the suggestion, Douglas!

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Electric Motor

Please note:.

The following information is in regards to our initial set up. It has been almost 5 years since we wrote this. Many upgrades and improvements have been made since then. All can bee seen on our Youtube Channel. Updated wiring diagrams, specs and photos will be coming soon. In the meantime, much of the below information is still accurate and I’m sure you will find it useful. And the answer to our most asked question is YES, we still love our electric motor!

WHY ELECTRIC?

An electric motor . . .

Is not for everyone..

Lets first take a look back in time when “production” boats became popular in the late 60s early 70s, the intent was to make an inexpensive boat the average family could afford and handle with limited sailing experience and knowledge. As a result, one of their requirements was the ability to move the boat in difficult situations. This is where the “auxiliary engine” was coined. But, for many, it has become the primary means of maneuvering their boat. Yes, there are places in the world you can’t sail, like the Panama Canal. But, there are often alternatives where you CAN sail.

“We have yet to use our motor for more than 30 minutes at a time.”

As of today, November 2016, we have sailed over 3000 miles up the east coast of the United States and through the Bahamas to Haiti. We have yet to use our motor for more than 30 minutes at a time. The majority of use comes when we drop the mainsail and back down on our anchor to set it. Most of our sailing has been offshore. But, we have also sailed on the ICW and recently sailed 25 miles up the Cape Fear River to Wilmington, NC. We have sailed under many bridges, some on set schedules, others open on demand. In all cases, we sailed under. We have found that having a solid plan and the patience to wait for the right weather and tide is the key.After all, we own a sailboat. They are inherently slow. We are not in a rush. We love the idea of being self-sufficient. But, for those who sail with schedules, are short on time, lack the patience to sit out a wind hole, feel the need to power their boat to hull speed, enjoy maintaining a diesel engine, or are just set in their ways, then an electric motor probably isn’t the right choice.

Want to learn even MORE…?

Of course we would love for you to stick around and read this page all the way to the bottom, but, we have tucked in many distractions (i.e. links) along the way. Don’t feel bad if you digress, we know you’ll be back. If you want to just jump feet first into all things “electric sailboat” Electric Seas is a good place to start. It’s a great resources community and features several other electric sailboat stories for you to enjoy.

ANOTHER POTENTIALLY GREAT RESOURCES…. 

“My Electric Boats” by: Charles Mathys. 

Although this book is currently on our Amazon wish list, we have not read it yet. But, it is the only one we could find on the subject and, for only $15, it looks promising. If you read it before we do, let us know what you think!

You don’t need a diesel . . .  

For ocean passages..

Many people have written in and commented that an electric motor is only good for day sailors who weren’t going very far each day, and that you need a reliable diesel engine for long distance cruising. But we feel like the opposite is true. Since we don’t have a dock to tie up to and charge our batteries each night, we rely on sailing to recharge our system. The longer we sail and the more sun we get, the more power we make. Because we don’t have a 9-5 to return to at the end of a fun weekend out on the boat, we have no schedules requiring that we make it back to the dock on time, no matter what the wind is doing. So, we feel that an electric motor, depending on your sailing style, can be adapted to any boat. But, you have to be willing to work around the one major draw back, range.

“We have no schedules requiring that we make it back to the dock on time.”

Range is the one major downside to an electric motor. But, with a sailboat, and some adequate sailing skills, we have found we really don’t need a motor as much as we originally thought. For those who do have schedules, the possibility of a hybrid system may work well. It encompasses all the benefits of an electric system with the added back up of a diesel or gas genset rated to supply adequate power for extended motoring. Some companies even offer an electric motor, like this one, that can be installed in parallel to an existing diesel motor. So the majority of motoring is done with the traditional diesel, however for short periods of time, like moving around the marina, the electric drive can be used instead. This also incorporates the added benefit of capturing power from the spinning prop while sailing, often referred to as “regeneration” or “regen”.

Our conversion to electric . . .  

Started with our motor..

We found the motor on ebay.com, knew it worked and that was about it. We chose this specific motor for three reasons:

• It was rated at 4.8kW at 36v which was adequate for our needs.
• It was overbuilt for an industrial application. This meant it had robust parts and easy to source replacement brushes.
• The motor cost us $125! Since this entire “Electro-Beke” project is just one big experiment, we tried at every corner to keep our expenses minimal.

Our motor weighs 110 pounds, which is quite a bit more than its brushless DC siblings like those used in the existing electric boat market. Although it is probably a little less efficient, its components are much more robust and durable. It is heavy duty, low cost and provides adequate power, with the added bonus of being simple and easy to find parts for. The only parts we will likely ever have to replace are the 8 carbon brushes that transfer electricity to the motor armature (the part that spins on the inside). Depending on use, they can last for many years without wearing out, and for about $80 we can buy a complete replacement set to have onboard. That’s it, virtually maintenance free, with only 1 moving part, the motor itself is relatively simple. On our boat, simplicity is often the defining factor for equipment selection.

This motor happens to be wired with separately excited field and armature (or SEPEX). It just means that we have a lot more control over the motors power output. We can tune it down to have more low end torque, or up to gain high end speed. This will allow us to customize the power output we need for our specific boat. A few other types of motors out there include, Series , and Permanent Magnet that only have one set of coils. Each type has its own benefits and drawbacks. But we won’t get into any of that here. If you would like to know even more about DC motors, click HERE .

we didn’t buy new . . .

Because we received quotes from three different companies:.

• Here’s our quote from OceanVolt for their AX8 motor.
• Here’s our quote from Annapolis Hybrid Marine for a Thoosa 7000HT motor. Read their prediction for power consumption and battery drain.
• Click here to see some data and predictions from Electric Yacht for their Quite Torque 20 motor.

Our entire set up . . .

Cost us just $1,400..

As you can see by the above quotes, The motors and supplementary wiring are all in the $10,000 price range. That doesn’t include a battery bank. Our motor and wiring cost us just under $500. Many of our components were refurbished, used or salvaged from boats being demolished, including some of the wiring. The battery bank and additional tools, like wire crimpers and cutters were another $500. So, for about $1000, we installed our Electro-Beke system. Our charging system ended up costing us only $400 thanks to a few amazing companies who joined our Uma Angels Family and supplied the major components. Find out more about our charging system in the “Charging” section below.

That Breaks down to:

$500 _ for the motor, controller and supplementary wiring. $500 _ for the batteries. $400 _ for the solar charger, panels and bimini modifications.

Power required . . .

To push our boat and yours..

Our motor has an 8hp rating. For those accustomed to gas or diesel engines, this may not seem like much power. But, the rating systems used for gas engines and electric motors are so different that comparing the numbers is almost meaningless. It comes down to the way the two types of motors use their energy and torque curves, which is quite different. According to the research we have done, a 1 hp gas (or diesel) engine can push 500 pounds of displacement to hull speed in calm conditions. Now, the sources disagree a little here, but as a rule of thumb a 1hp electric motor can push about 3 to 3.5 times more displacement than its petrol equivalent. So a 1hp electric motor, drawing 750W, can push about 1500 pounds of displacement.

“Hull speed’ and ‘redundant power’ weren’t something we worried about in our system.”

Our boat displaces 13,500 pounds. so, 13,500 / 1500 = 9hp electric motor., now 1hp (of electric) draws about 750 watts. so, 9hp x 750w = 6.75kw electric motor..

At 48V, our motor should give us 6.3kW, which is slightly less than what we would need to push our boat to hull speed in calm conditions. But that is something we never intend to do. It takes a lot of power to push a displacement boat to hull speed. So the slower you go, the greater your range will be. However, it takes a long time to cover that distance. So, there is a sweet spot right around 4 kts (see graph to the right) where you make good headway, while being conservative with your power consumption. Of course, these are merely suggestions. Real world conditions are rarely perfect and adding 30% redundancy is often recommended by many motor companies. 

We only use our motor for close quarter maneuvering where sailing isn’t an option, like a marina, or tight anchorage, so “hull speed” and “redundant power” weren’t something we worried about when designing our system. We often sail on and off the hook and choose places to anchor with few boats around. 

Power | Speed | Range

Hover over any point to see exact data. For example, it is estimated that at 2.7 kts our motor will draw 600 watts (blue), giving us a range of 65 nautical miles (grey). This graph is based on a 14kW Lithium battery bank and a high end motor/controller combo.

Here are some great companies . . .

That install, sell, or can help answer your questions..

Thunderstruck-EV  and EV-West  are staffed by great people who would love to hear from you and help answer any questions you may have. They both offer DIY kits that will suit the needs of any boat. They can also help source adequate battery banks, help with solar and even find local experts to assist with installations as well. 

If you’re looking for a more “plug and play” set up, check out the companies below. They represent the best in the industry and will gladly customize a set up for your specific needs and provide a detailed quote.

Elco Motors

elcomotoryachts.com

[email protected]

1 (877) 411-3526

Oceanvolt SEA

oceanvolt.com

[email protected]

+358 10 325 5281

clean-e-marine.com

[email protected]

+1 (410) 353-4348

Electric Yacht

electricyachtsocal.com

[email protected]

1 (855) 339-2248

Electroprop

electroprop.com

[email protected]

+1 (805) 455-8444

WANT TO LEARN EVEN MORE…?

Here is another great article about “How much electric power do you really need? !!! !!!

INSTALLATION

Getting down to the Nuts and Bolts

For the complete parts list and wiring diagram, scroll down..

There is a lot to talk about here. Hopefully you can follow along and not fall asleep. Like…I …….am…….right….nowwwww(yawn)www…  SLAP !!! Ok! I’m awake. Where was I. Right, wiring.

With no degrees or formal training in electrical engineering (and no, they didn’t teach us this stuff in architecture school), we had a lot of learning to do. Here we were, with a big heavy electric motor we knew nothing about, a boat it could theoretically push and the dream it would all work in the end. Now all we had to do was figure out how to get the motor to spin the prop. Sounded simple enough…right?

“…all we had to do was figure out how to get the motor to spin the prop.”

This step, of course took the longest. Since all our components were used, refurbished or salvaged, we had to test everything. We then started wiring the system in pieces in the salon and testing those. We then modified, adjusted, replaced and fabricated new systems and tested those. In all, it took us 9 months from motor purchase, to moving boat. Granted, not all of that time was devoted to installing the motor. We did have a few other projects on the side.

There are four main sections to our electric motor installation:

• The motor controller
• The batteries
• The wires that connect it all together

The motor we talked about previously. In all honesty, the main concern when sourcing a motor, is that it has enough power (watts) to push your boat to the speed you would like. The second concern is that it will work with the voltage of the components you choose. 12/24/36/48/72/96V are all common. The general rule, is that the higher the voltage, the fewer amps need to be pushed through the system to attain the same wattage. With this in mind, we have found that 72/96V systems tend to be more expensive than similar 48V set ups and, pushing a boat requires much less power that pushing a car. So, we’re not worried about running hundreds of amps through the system. Although rated at 36V, we run our motor at 48V so we can utilize available golf cart components for the rest of our systems, which are also inexpensive and abundantly available. For our boat, we designed the system to handle 150 amps. This would give us a theoretical output of just over 7kW (48V x 150A = 7.2 kW). If you were paying attention earlier, you might notice that our motor is rated for only 4.8kW at 36V. That is a continuous rating however. It can handle more, but cannot sustain it for long periods of time without some external cooling system. But, because there are times when we need all the power we can get, like stopping or backing down on the anchor, we decided to run our system with a higher amperage rating to accommodate that need.

CHECK OUT THESE PHOTOS OF OUR FINAL INSTALLATION.

(As usual, click to enlarge)

The Motor Controller

This little box is the heart of an electrical conversion. Similar to the head of an ICE (internal combustion engine), it controls the speed at which the electric motor spins. It does this by breaking up the power stream coming in from the batteries into tiny little pulses. This is called Pulse Width Modulation or PWM. There are many different types of controllers out there. In general, if you found a motor with standard voltage range, there is a controller on the market that will work for it. Some are more complex than others. Some offer built in regen capabilities, while other require computer programing and digital displays. 

Our controller is a Curtis 1209B. It is designed to run a series motor, but since we got it for such a good deal, we made it work with ours by only using it to power the armature. See the wiring diagram below for more details. This controller is not fancy. It is weather proof, simple and robust. If you haven’t figured it out by now, we love simple and robust. 

The Batteries

We will explain more below in the “BATTERIES” section. But for now, as long as you can create a battery bank that can be wired to produce the required voltage for the rest of your system, then you’ll be fine. Also keep in mind how much space and weight the bank will require. Ours fit perfectly where our old fuel tank used to be and helped offset all the weight we lost by removing the tank and the old diesel motor. For typical lead acid banks,  at 36V you will need 3 -12v or 6-6V batteries. A 48V bank will require 4 or 8 respectively and so on. Although you can purchase massive deep cycle batteries with equally large aH ratings, we don’t see the value of them since it is very difficult to maneuver them into tight spaces on a boat. Ideally, if you can afford them, a lithium bank would be the best for an electric motor conversion. We’ll talk more about them in the “WHAT”S NEXT” section below. 

All our wires our tinned copper or “Marine Grade”, although, we despise that term since it often just means “more expensive.” The majority of which, we scrapped off of boats that were being demolished at the boatyard. What we couldn’t find for free, we purchased from a local discount marine store that sold surplus marine components. This allowed us to spend very little for all the wiring. 

For the most part it is all oversized, but when it comes to wire, the bigger the better. There are many useful online calculators that can help give an idea of what size wire will be appropriate for a given application. If your wiring is undersized, the system will lose some efficiency. For the most part this is of no concern. However, in extreme circumstances it will heat the wire to the point of melting things. For example, we undersized the cables connecting the motor controller to the armature, after a 15min full power test at the dock, we melted off the heat shrink tubing on the terminal lugs. It was quickly replaced by something much more beefy and hasn’t been a problem since. 

O yeah, One More Thing . . .

The motor mount. .

Oops, almost forgot. Somehow we had to keep the motor inline with the transmission and securely mounted to the boat.  We built and re-built 6 different mounting brackets prior to the one we have now. Each being fabricated after hours of sketches and models were developed. We didn’t have to modify the motor any or the transmission itself. However, we did modify the original transmission adapter plate that was used to attach it to the back of our Westerbeke.  We then securely attached the transmission to the hull of our boat. This allowed the motor to float in front of it, leaving the transmission to absorb any thrust from the prop. 

We fabricated the brackets out of steal since it is easy to work with and weld. Once we settled on a final design, we epoxied and painted the brackets and motor with engine enamel. We’re quite pleased with the final outcome. All the exposed metal is protected from corrosion and it is very securely mounted to the old engine pan.

In tandem to our bracket iterations, were several attempts to connect the motor to the transmission. Our early versions were poorly aligned causing horrible vibrations that in turn produced noise. Noise was something we were trying to avoid by going electric. The final design paired two identical sprockets, connected inline by a #50 double roller chain. This seems to work quite well. It allows for small misalignments and produces the least amount of noise. There are of course many other options out there, and someday we may experiment with them. But, for now, this set up works for us. 

Take a look through our Electro-Beke playlist on Youtube  for video of the installation process. 

WIRING DIAGRAM

Including complete parts list..

Here it is. The schematic you’ve all been requesting. You may notice that it is drawn for a direct drive system, where the motor is used to electronically shift from forward to reverse. We have since installed our motor in front of our old transmission and no longer need the Fwd/Rev circuit. However, since the majority of set ups out there use the motor to achieve Fwd/Rev, we wanted to show our diagram depicting a similar set up. If you end up with a Series or PM motor, you should be able to modify this diagram by excluding the 12V bank to motor connections. However, many of the components, like the contactors, require a 12V supply to operate their solenoids. So you will still need a 12V accessory bank. This is often the house bank of a boat, since many smaller boats run 12V house banks anyway.

Below are the components we used, why we chose them, where to buy them and pictures of them installed in our boat. If you didn’t figure it out already, their letters correspond to the diagram above.

(A) – 10A FUSE 

Buy one HERE .

This is a simple automotive fuse held in an inline fuse holder. It protects the ignition circuit wiring from drawing too much amperage in the event of a short.

(B) – Key Switch

Buy one here . .

The key switch is mainly for security. It can be replaced by a simple on/off switch, but taking the key out will slow down someone trying to leave with your boat, without your permission.

(C) – FWD/REV Switch

This switch is only needed if you are planning a direct drive system. We no longer have need for it, but also have yet to rewire our system after we installed the transmission. It is a basic rocker switch with an on/off/on rocker and 6 pins on the back. This allows both positive and negative wires to be switched. We also wired ours so that it will shut off the contactors if switched accidentally while the throttle was engaged. That way it wouldn’t cause any damage to the motor.

(D) – Throttle

The throttle tells the motor controller how much power to send the motor. We chose this one because it allowed us to keep our existing throttle lever and cable mounted on the steering pedestal. It also has a micro switch that we use to close the secondary contactor (N) on the 48V side and the Fwd/Rev contactor (E) on the 12V side when the throttle is pushed forward. This ensures no voltage is going through the system until the throttle is actually engaged.

(E) – FWD/REV Contactor

This, again, is not needed if you, like us, install the motor with a transmission that handles Fwd/Rev. However, if you are planning a direct drive set up, and the controller you chose doesn’t have a Fwd/Rev circuit, then this is a necessary evil. The one we used, we scrapped off an dead windlass. It works great for the 12V circuit and are easy to find.

(F) – Main Battery Switch

Our boat came with this switch installed already. We simply rewired it slightly to accommodate our systems. For now we only use the “Battery 1” and “off” settings. However, if we eventually install a DC-DC converter to bring our 48V bank down to 12V we could wire it to the “battery 2” position as a back up battery bank.

(G) – Positive Buss Bar

Pretty basic here. A buss bar is used to connect multiple leads to the same source. This one is beefy to handle high amperage on the positive side of the 12V circuit.

(H) – Negative Buss Bar

Same as the Positive buss bar above. However this one is tied into the 48V circuit. 

(J & M) – Shunt

These are pretty standard. They are required to hook up an amp meter and measure how much amperage is running through your system. Often an amp meter will come with its own shunt. They sample the current so that not all 100+ amps are running through a meter. That would be very dangerous. Just make sure the shunt and meter are rated for the same mV, usually 50mV or 100mV.

(K & U) – Main Fuse

These fuses protect the wiring in the system. The closer to the battery bank the better. The fuse on the 48V side is rated for 200A and the 12V fuse is rated for 80A. These are rated for amperage only and can usually take a variety of voltages. Both fuses and holders are identical. They just have different ratings.

(L) – Primary Contactor 

This contactor is wired to the main key switch. It is a bit redundant but shuts off any power from the controller, motor and gauges. It acts more like a battery shut off.

(N) – Secondary Contactor

This contactor supplies the motor controller with the power it needs to run the motor. It is also the one that is bypassed by (T) the pre-charge resistor. Contactors are just big remote activated switches. Like breakers, they activate very fast to eliminate high amperage arching.

(P) – Motor Controller 

The motor controller we chose works for our application, but there are many out there to choose from. Do your own research here before deciding on what motor you will use. We happened to get a sweet deal on ours so we made it work with our motor. Our system would be less complicated if we used a controller designed for a SEPEX motor. The Curtis 1209B that we have is designed for a Series motor, but we make it work.

(Q) – DC Motor (SEPEX)

Sorry, you’ll have to find this one on your own.

Since another motor like ours has yet to show up again for sale online, we can’t really recommend the same one. However, the basic idea is finding a motor with the appropriate wattage to push your boat. Refer to our “Power Requirements” section to get an idea of what that might be. Then just make sure it will produce the desired power at a voltage that you would like to work with. We recommend 48V for most applications for reasons described previously.

(R) –  Amp Meter

These attach to the shunt (J & M) and show you how many amps are running through the system. Depending on where it is placed it can either read the amps being drawn from the battery bank or the amps going to the motor. We decided to read the amps being drawn from our batteries.

(S) – Volt Meter

This meter does not require a shunt. As long as the negative lead makes its way back to the negative buss bar, the positive lead can be attached at any point along the circuit. We chose again to read the battery bank voltage with ours. However, it can also be place on the motor to read the voltage there instead.

(T) – Pre-charge Resistor 

They look like THIS . 

There is no specific item to show you here. Each controller and each set up is different. But, I can tell you that the pre-charge resistor is very important. It by-passes the main contactors and supplies the motor controller with the power it needs to pre-charge, so its ready when the main contactor is switched on and all that amperage comes rushing in.

Make sure you check out SV Bianka’s page for another detailed blog about his electric motor installation.For another great article about all the other stuff that goes into a motor installation,

you might want to read “Balance of System” . The article is for an electric motorcycle set up, but the basics are similar enough.

One thing we learned very early on was that . . .

Volts (v) x amps (a) = watts (w) or v x a = w.

At first we thought (please don’t laugh we were total newbies)  that if we took 4 – 12V batteries with 125aH, and wired them in series, we would get a 48V bank with 500aH capacity. Obviously we forgot everything we learned in high school algebra. We soon resolved our mistake and learned that this formula is at the heart of everything electrical. As you can see, Watts are the thing you need to pay attention to. Remember high school physics? W=Work. Many appliances in your house, often things that produce heat, are rated in Watts, but marine stuff tends to rate things in Amps. Well, for our sake Watts are king. No matter what boat you have, it requires a certain amount of work (Watts) to push it through the water at any given speed. So, your job is to charge, store and supply to the motor a similar amount of wattage in order for your boat to move. The more watts you can store, the longer you can push your boat.

“The more watts you can store, the longer you can push your boat.”

As mentioned before, our motor is a SEPEX motor. This meant that the field and armature needed 2 separate voltages in order for the motor to spin. The way we solved this problem was with two separate battery banks. The field is powered by the house bank at 12V. This bank consists of two deep cycle batteries wired in parallel giving us about 250Ah at 12V. So far, it has held up great. It powers everything onboard including the inverter and laptops. We use about 30Ah on a slow day at anchor, and around 70Ah when sailing or when we’re both using our laptops all day at anchor. The nice part, is that even on a cloudy day, our 480W solar bank can replenish that before dinnertime. But we’ll talk more about that in the next section, “CHARGING” below. 

The motor bank consists of 4 – 12V deep cycle batteries wired in series giving us about 125Ah @ 48V. This may not seem like much, but in the last month of sailing, we have logged over 1000 miles, including sailing 25 miles up the Cape Fear River, and have never depleted the motor bank more than 35%. That works out to drawing only 44Ah used. We’ll talk more about range and testing below in the “TESTING” section. 

There are many types of lead acid batteries on the market. Don’t get too invested in brand. Most of the batteries on the market today are made by the same two companies. Trojan seems to be the brand of choice for many. We found batteries for sale locally and for $100 each, including delivery, we couldn’t pass them up. We also knew that the flooded lead acid bank we installed is only temporary. Like we’ve said before, this whole “Electro-Beke” thing is really one big experiment. We have plans to install a LiFePO4 bank soon enough. But we’ll tell you all about that in the “WHAT’S NEXT” section below.

There are many inefficiencies in electrical systems, like heat. However, don’t worry about them too much. If you budget 30% power redundancy into your system, it will more than cover any losses from heat, or mechanical friction and so on.

Check out www.batterystuff.com . They have useful calculators for battery banks and solar, along with great information on different types of batteries and what they are used for.

Our Solar System . . .

Also doesn’t include pluto..

We have 480 watts of solar. Broken down into 2 – 240W panels at 24v wired in series to give us a nominal voltage of 48V. Did you get all that? Great! Steven, from Solar EV Systems , gave us a great deal on them, landing him a spot in our Uma Angels Family . There are a several types of solar panels, but as far as we can tell, any modern panel is efficient and well made. None are much more efficient that others, it’s more about the size of your mounting space, and the size of your wallet. The ones we have are made by Trina, They are not expensive, look well made and perform exactly as promised.PV (Photovoltaic, aka solar panel) modules have three different voltage ratings that are handy to understand:

• The nominal voltage of a panel could also be called the “conversational voltage.” When we talk about the voltage of the panels and the other components of the system, we’ll most often use the nominal voltage. Nominal voltage actually refers to the voltage of the battery that the module is best suited to charge; the term is a “leftover” from the days when solar panels were used only to charge batteries. The actual voltage output of the panel changes as lighting and temperature conditions change, so there’s never one specific voltage at which the panel operates. Nominal voltage allows us, at a glance, to make sure the panel is compatible with a given system without having to look at the exact voltage. Our panels have a nominal voltage of 24V. We wired them in series which gives us 48V. It reality, they put out about 75V on a sunny day. But our charge controller allows us to charge a battery bank from 48V all the way down to 12V with the same solar panel set up. We’ll talk more about our charge controller later.
• The second voltage rating is the maximum power voltage (Vmp). This is the highest voltage the panel can produce while connected to a system and operating at peak efficiency. As mentioned above, the max our panels will produce is around 75V, even though we talk about them as a 48V panel system.
• The third voltage is open circuit voltage (Voc). This is the maximum voltage that the panel can produce when not connected to an electrical circuit or system. Voc can be measured with a meter directly contacting the panel’s terminals or the ends of its built-in cables.

Panels also have two different current ratings: current at maximum power (Imp) and short circuit current (Isc), both listed in Amps. The maximum power current is similar to Vmp: it’s the maximum current available when the panel is operating at peak efficiency in a circuit. Ours can produce 35Amps at max efficiency, They consistently produce 30A on a sunny day and we’ve seen as much as 32A. Similar to Voc, the short circuit current is the current measurement your meter would show when in contact with the positive and negative terminals of the panel while not connected to a system or load.All these voltage ratings and current ratings are often found on the back of a panel. Use them to estimate how much power they will be able to produce.

Two rules of thumb:

• 1kW or solar will produce 4kWh/day
• Rated Watts / 3 will get you approximate Ah/d @ 12V.

So, according to this, our 480W panels should give us 160aH on an average day, which we’ve found to be quit accurate. Although, we’ve only ever needed more that 100Ah of charge on one occasion. So usually, our batteries are charged back up before lunch, and we spend the rest of the day on “float” charge.

Types of Panels

Monocrystalline.

These are single silicon cells grown into larger crystals, then cross-section cut into small wafers to form individual cells that are later joined together to form a solar panel. This cell type has high conversion efficiency which means it takes up less space on deck. These cells are generally not shadow protected and are often more expensive per watt.

Multicrystalline (Polycrystalline)

These cells are also single silicon cells constructed by utilizing multiple amounts of smaller crystals to form a cell. This cell type has very high conversion efficiency but is also not shadow protected. Although, you should really be installing any panel so it doesn’t get blocked by shadows throughout the day. It will drastically increase the output if you install them in a proper location.

Amorphous silicon

These are the most inexpensive to manufacture. They are produced by depositing an active silicon material on various substrates like stainless steel sheet. The conversion efficiency is not as good as the single crystal type, but Uni-Solar panels are this type of panel and are shadow protected. Shadow protected means that a panel continues to charge when part of the cells are in a shadow, like a stay, which is a great advantage on a sailboat.

Our Charge Controller . . .

Is at the heart of it all..

The next, and possibly most important component in our charging circuit, is our Midnite Solar KID charge controller. This thing is amazing. Midnite also joined our Uma Angels Family when we asked them to send us a controller and they agreed. We spent a lot of time researching solar charge controllers and learning all about PWM vs MPPT. Bottom line is, if you can afford it, get the MPPT controller. We chose the Kid because it’s just the most efficient at collecting power from your panels. It is also easy to program and understand. We currently run it at 12V and just rewire our motor bank to 12V when we need to charge it. However, we will soon be adding a smaller, simple 12V charger to the “load” circuit of the Kid. This will allow the Kid to be permanently charging the 48V house bank. But, when it is full, switch over to the “load” circuit and charge our house bank through the smaller controller. It may all sound too complicated now, but once it’s installed and working, we’ll be sure to share everything with you in more detail. 

“We have never gone 24hrs without fully charged batteries.”

On a boat, where space is at a premium, you need all the efficiency you can get. Right now, I’m sitting on the boat, it is overcast and raining outside, it’s noon and we’re getting around 100W of power in from our panels (about 8-9A @ 12V). Our house bank will be charged back up by dinnertime, same as the last few days, and we haven’t seen the sun all week. When it is sunny, our house bank is usually charged back up before we wake up in the morning. No we don’t wake up THAT early, usually around 10am, but seriously, if it’s sunny in the morning, we put 30+aH into our batteries before 10am. The charge controller runs silently, however it makes a tiny click when it switches from “resting” to “BulkMPPT”. Since on a boat, we’re attuned to every tiny sound, we usually here it click on and off a few times before the sun even rises. Mind you, it’s only putting in 0.5aH then, but still, the sun isn’t even over the horizon yet and we’re already charging our batteries. 

Check out “Step 26” when we install our solar panels and charge controller. 

The rule of thumb we used when designing our system is that 1 – 100W panel can charge a single deep cycle battery from 50% discharged in a single sunny day. So we have 6 batteries, so ideally we would have 600W of solar. Now, that just wasn’t practical for us, so we settled for 480W and it keeps up just fine. However, if we discharged our motor and house bank down 80% we would need about two sunny days to get them both topped back up fully. Or, about 4 rainy days. For us, this isn’t an issue since we typically use the motor for very short periods of time right before anchoring or when setting off for a multi day passage. So, by the time we need them again, their both fully charged and ready to go. If not, we’ll just hang out and drink a beer. So far it’s never been an issue or even come close to it. We have never gone 24hrs without fully charged batteries.

Many have suggested we have a small generator on board as a back up, just incase there is no sun for many days and our batteries are dead. So far, we have gone a full week without sun and our solar has kept up just fine. Although, we may design a system with the ability to be hooked up to a genset for extending motoring, like say the Panama Canal, so that if we ever needed to, we could just set a generator on deck for a few days and then get rid of it as soon as we’re done. But, for now the whole point was to get away from petrol dependance. 

So far, solar is our only means of power production. We do have plans to get working regeneration from the prop while sailing. The possibility is definitely there, and we have tested for voltage while sailing. But as of today, we haven’t hooked up a charge controller to it. Mainly because we just don’t need it…yet. Our power requirements are so minimal and we use the motor so little, that we haven’t bothered to hook it up yet. But, it is on our short to-do list. So stay tuned for future updates. 

HERE is a link to a great forum talking about solar systems, battery banks and how to balance them. 

How far can you motor? 

Maybe the most asked question we receive..

It’s a valid question for sure, and one that many have asked us. But, we have yet to find out. We are still early on in our testing phase of the experiment. We’ve used the motor many times but rarely for more than 10-15 min and never more than 30. It is also hard to find “ideal conditions” to test in. There either isn’t enough space, time or light. Or the tide and wind aren’t in our favor. Sounds like excuses we know, but it’s the truth. 

“We are in no hurry to go anywhere,  ever.” 

From what we have done, we can tell you this. Our max speed has been right at 4kts. but it was against a slight current, maybe 1kt max. So, that would mean our theoretical top speed is closer to 5kts. 

Here again, we haven’t actually found out. Mostly because without a tow boat right beside us, it would be dangerous to run out of power in the middle of a channel or bay where there are “calm conditions”. But, we’ve motored for 2 nautical miles at 3kts (with a 1kt tide in our favor) and it drained our batteries down to 70%. So, that would mean that in “ideal conditions” we could motor at 2kts for 6 nautical miles. Doesn’t sound like much, we know. But, with a favorable tide and even a slight favorable wind, we can extend that tremendously. We also wait for the wind and tide to be favorable and then just sail to where ever we need to go.

With limited area to mount solar panels and without a genset, we knew if we used more power that we could generate, we would always have dead batteries. So, from the beginning, we focused more on how much power we could consistently generate, and base our system off of that. To us, the meant using less, not necessarily making more. Our solar has kept up great so far, but our power needs have also been minimal. We have autopilot and a chart plotter that are always on when sailing. We also use our laptops constantly and run a small inverter for tools and small cooking appliances like blenders. We have all LED lights too. We don’t have a refrigerator yet or windlass. But they are on the short list. We also have yet to capture any power from the prop while sailing. So there is still room to capture more power if we need it. 

As we continue to sail further and upgrade and modify our system, we will also continue to update you on how it all works here. So keep a look out for updates on our Facebook page and in future videos.  

WHAT’S NEXT

We may have a spinning Motor . . .

But the fun has just begun..

Well, our motor works. It pushes our boat reliably. The Electro-Beke experiment is a success, at least in our eyes. Now the real fun begins. We’ve proven to ourselves that we can sail further that we thought and use the motor less than we originally planned. So, what’s next?

“We have a few more project on the list of upgrades and modifications.”

We have a few more projects on the list of upgrades and modifications. The first thing on the list is to rewire our system and remove the redundant components left over from the direct drive phase. After that, installing some better gauges and monitoring systems would be really nice. There is a “fuel gauge ” we would like to install for the motor bank and house bank. It is simple and relatively smart. It will give us an accurate state of charge in a quick glance. 

Next on the list will be installing a charge controller or developing a similar system to allow us to capture power from the spinning prop while under sail. Technically our motor is capable of it, and early tests have augmented this theory. We are currently working with a few companies to figure out what the best system will be. 

We also need to install a larger heat sink for our motor controller. The one that came with it is designed for air movement across its fins and is therefore undersized for our needs. However, we may be upgrading to a true SEPEX motor controller before long, so it will handle regeneration and would require a different heat sink anyway. 

The big ticket item on the list is to install a large LiFePO4 battery bank. We have our eyes out for a salvaged Nissan Leaf or Chevy Volt that still has its battery bank intact. We’ve seen them for sale before and would love to get our hands on one. LiFePO4s are much more stable than other types of Lithium Ion batteries. But, we’ll talk about that if and when we actually get our hands on some. 

It’s no dream electric propulsion options available for most vessels.

What do we do?

The simple answer to this is that we educate people about converting gas-powered boats and yachts into electric powered boats and yachts . We even sell a few “plug and play” options that we’ve sourced specifically to make your conversion easier.

But it doesn’t end there…our organization isn’t just about electric boating and yachting, ultimately we want to bring forward the reality of cleaner alternative energies into everyday living.

Just as Tesla Motors has done for the automotive industry and Zero Motorcycles has done for the motorcycle industry, we believe we can do this for the boating community.

Good question but an easy one for us to answer. At Bluefin we back our words with action by converting our very own gas-powered yachts into fully electric seagoing vessels .

We’ve already done it once with “ The Original Bluefin ” and we have done it again. You can even watch our progress by following our blog .

They said it couldn’t be done Electric cabin cruiser Hold MY Beer

56 thoughts on “It’s no dream electric propulsion options available for most vessels.”

Looking for info on electric outboards. Availability? 3hp+/- Torqueedo?

Yes, we are a Torqeedo dealer and have test drives available for many outboards.

Hello I have a 48 ft Chris craft at moment it has two 496 in gas of coarse. What size electric motors do I need sir I’m not sure .

we do not have a replacement for a 496 if you would like to cruise at hull speed only we have a few solutions available

Hello, I am looking to converting my boat. How would I go about hiring your company for this project?

Hi Sydney, just give us a call at 604-786-6652

I’m looking to convert a 350 gas powered cabin cruiser to electric. I only need enough power to reach hull speed…not planing speed.

I’m thinking 15 hp 11kw 72 volt maybe 5 or 600ah.

I’m I on the right path?

Yes, that all sounds good what sort of budget are you working with.

I want to repower a 25 ft cabin cruiser with electric motor. The boat has a deep vee hull and weighs roughly 3 tons. I only want enough power to cruise at displacement speed.

How many horsepower motor will I need and will I have to change the prop? Will I need to reduce motor speed with pulleys and belt?

Our kits are designed for each vessel with reduction gears to match the propellors and boat

considering purchasing a searay amberjack 27 or 29 foot and converting it over to Electric

Legs on those units use more power than you store for any distance at speed.

Looking to turn my powerboat into electric, it’s a 1993 powerquest 257 with a mercury 502 and bravo 1 out drive. What would a 150kw motor and battery set up roughly cost with installation?

I am interested in learning more about converting my 29′ sailboat from diesel to electric. However, I live in Ontario, do you have agents or affiliates here?

any boat yard can complete the work

I’d like to follow. I have a sea ray 340 I’d like to consider converting.

unless you have a very large budget there is no comparable.

I have a Mercator Offshore Mk.II 30 ft sloop that I want to convert to electric motor auxiliary. Current auxiliary engine is a 25 hp Volvo Penta MD2B diesel.

we have an inboard Lynch motor that will push your boat along just fine.

I think it’s amazing what you are doing, and a huge opportunity here.

I was wondering if you might be able to help me? I have a 2003 sea Doo islandia I would like to convert to electric.

no room for batteries

Looking to convert an 18 foot I/O Regal over to electric. It is a 1986 hull and powertrain. The outdrive is a Mercruiser Alpha 1 drive. Any information would be a help.

no outdrive solutions shaft drive only

Do you have a 454 conversation kit

sorry that is only available in the $$$$$ 150000-25000 range and only offers very little range at full speed.

Looking for best option for my busy tender / short ship to shore use twice daily , Carib C10 rhib and 2 adults Ideally w/ solar charge capability also

we can set you up with the travel 1103 and a solar panel to keep the battery topped up.

We are given thought to convert this oldie but a goodie to electric, but I’d love to hear what the experts think about viability and cost. Here’s what we are looking at — or something like it.

Sorry, meant to say: https://www.northpointyachtsales.com/Pre-owned-Inventory-1983-Cheer-Men-Boat-PT-41-Rock-Hall-MD-13041776?ref=list

Hi Rik, yes, these beautiful launches deserve a second quiet life on the water, would need to thow what speed and range you are looking for, unlike a car boats are always going up a very steep hill.

Interested in converting my 1979 36ft Uniflite double cabin from diesel to electric starting with the starboard side first . I currently have two catapillar 3208 diesel engines for propulsion . I would like to inquire on the cost of a complete plug and play electric propulsion system .

What are your distance and speed requirements Ken?

Speed eight to 12 knots and range as much as I can get you show me different options .

I currently have two catapillar 3208 diesel engines with a total of 420 horsepower

Similar project, I have Cat 3406’s. What did you find for electric conversion? jpack29 at Y..h.o.o

sorry we do not have any 400 hp options that are viable solutions slow down to 5-6 knots and install a 600 A/H lithium bank and you will be cruising for 4-5 hours

Looking for an Electric boat kit for a 1985 Thompson 24 ft Current motor 5.0 L Mercruser with alpha drive duel control (cabin fly bridge) So, about 145 KW Electric and match to alpha drive. Price?

Ahoy Frank, Sorry this is not a project that works well. initial investment in the 100-150k for a couple hours planing at best.

$$$$$$$ no kit available for this application.

Good day . I am interested in converting my Mercruiser 3.0 litre I/O to electric . It is in a 22″ pontoon boat . If possible would like to know estimated cost of all components . Thx in advance Peter

I have a 60 foot sumerset houseboat with twin 3 liter mercruisers. We are on a lake and we never run for more than an hour and a half to possibly two hours. Is switching to electric even possible? Speed, of course is not an issue.

Thank you..

I have a hison 10 foot mini jet boat, im intreted in doing a electric conversion. Boat wieghts about 300 pounds and id love to do 100mph but thhat might exceed my price range, also run time, looking for options other then gutting a seadoo..

no room for batteries all that speed use up the best battery bank in about a 1/4 mile

i have twin 318’s in our 1973 Trojan F32 woul like to go all electric is this even possible

Yes if you like cruising at 5-6 knots we have an affordable solution 20-25k if you want to cruise faster the pricing starts at $150,000

What about converting a2009 Maxum 3100 se with twin 5.0 litre with axius (joystick)

not enough room for batteries to run more than an hour

Can you convert a 135 hP bow rider ski boat.1990 great condition? What’s the anticipated cost?

I have a 2008 gas powered boat with 350’s in it. My thoughts were to convert to an electric motor, but instead have 2 generators creating the power for each electric motor instead of 2 full size engines sucking up gas. Figure this would be a much more efficient way to create a generator/electric type power system, but I’m having a hard time understanding if a gen can even produce enough power to push the electric motors. Even if a 7kw gen is 100% dedicated to each motors. I’d basically have 3 gens on board, with 1 of them running the house, then the other 2 running each electric motor?

Thoughts???

if you are looking for the same performance your budget would need to be six figures.

Hello I have a 2000 20ft Weldcraft aluminum jet drive V-8 350 gas engine. This boat is set up for fishing. I would like to convert to electric. I would like to be able to go out in the ocean for a 10 mile round trip with trolling for a 4 hour period. As well as 6 hour river trips that would require intermittent power and drift periods with less power. Please let me n ow if this is a fit for a project. Thanks Robert

HI Robert, all your trolling needs can be covered by electric.

Looking for a HP rating or comparison for a ICE engine to a electric engine

I have a 80s crusader 454 engine on a 35 foot wooden trawler.

What size electric motor is comparable I think it’s about 300HP

Hi Derek, no 300 hp for electric boats without a six figure budget. if you would like to cruise around at 5-6 knots we can help.

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EP-200 ELECTRIC INBOARD

$ 68,995.00

Comparable HP: 200HP Voltage: 144 Volts Suggested Battery Package Options: Deep Cycle AGM – Victron – 12V / 220Ah (24 pack) Lithium Iron Phosphate – 96V / 100Ah (Custom setup)

Congratulations on getting one step closer to purchasing your award-winning Elco Electric Inboard. Select the options and accessories below. 

Download Spec Sheets

Step 1. Select Throttle Control

Select Throttle Mount Type

LIVORSI SIDE MOUNT REMOTE THROTTLE

$ 450.00

To be mounted on the side. Throttle includes 16 foot throttle cable, key with on/off switch, and safety lanyard.

LIVORSI TOP MOUNT REMOTE THROTTLE

$ 650.00

To be mounted on the top. Throttle includes 16 foot throttle cable, key with on/off switch, and safety lanyard.

LIVORSI DUAL TOP MOUNT THROTTLE

$ 1,300.00

For Twin-Powered Systems. Throttle includes 16 foot throttle cable, key with on/off switch, and safety lanyard.

Step 2. Select Couplings

Select female for motor and male for prop shaft if needed.

Female Coupling for Motor 1-1/4

$ 268.00

Solid hub flange- 4IN X 1-1/4IN bore

Male Coupling for Prop Shaft

4" Flange - Select size based on your prop shaft

Step 3. Select Batteries & Charger

If you do not have batteries and a charger, you will need to select either AGM or Lithium batteries with the matching charger type. If you already have batteries but need a charger, select the applicable charger based on the type of battery you have.

Step 4. Select Battery Connection Kit

Pre-assembled battery connection cables simplify motor installation. Our 7-foot electric battery cables and 18-inch battery jumper cables are adequately sized based on the motor amp draw. Swaged terminal ends are sealed with epoxy-impregnated heat-shrink tubing where they connect to marine-grade fuse blocks, Anderson motor connectors, and batteries.

Step 5. Select Battery Monitor

Battery monitors help you take better care of your battery. Your battery monitor also provides real-time and historical information on voltage, power consumption, and more.

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• Description

Discover the strength of Elco’s EP-200 electric inboard , a 200 – hp electric inboard boat motor that makes converting a diesel – powered vessel easier with its plug – and – play design. The EP-200 electric inboard powers boats up to 120 feet in length, including water taxis. This 200 – hp inboard boat motor offers quiet operation and significantly reduces environmental impact, aligning with Elco’s long-standing commitment to sustainability that started with the 1893 World’s Columbian Exhibition in Chicago. Experience over 50,000 hours of operation with the EP-200 electric inboard , where performance meets reliability and environmental responsibility .  

Elco EP System – Electric Boat Propulsion at Its Finest

The Elco Electric Propulsion System is well engineered using advanced technologies for reliable and outstanding performance. All of Elco’s products are built in the USA.

Elco Electric Motor: Cool, Quiet & Powerful

The entire propulsion system, excluding instrument panel and batteries, is contained in a water resistant cast aluminum finned housing that contains all of the electronics, AC motor, and safety devices. The system is mounted directly in place of a typical marine diesel or gas engine. Whether on the sound, around the bay, along the lake, or on the river, it is highly valuable to protect our waters. The Elco Electric Propulsion System is a highly efficient and extremely durable alternative to fossil fuel options.

* Performance may vary based on operating conditions. The figures provided above relate to travel at between 60 – 80% of hull speed.

** Shore power-50% depth of discharge

To convert from nautical miles (nm) to statute miles multiply nm by 1.15.

With Electric Hybrid system additional kilowatts should be added depending on house loads (1,000 watts equals 1kW)

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• Electric Boat Conversion Kit (E-Boat)

E-Boat Conversion Kit

We offer a full vehicle conversion kit to make your boat go electric. Our offer includes a kit with or without the installation service with a warranty of 2 years.

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Please contact us if you are interested in our products or if you want to schedule a test drive in our EV.

EV Conversion Kit​ for Boat

We offer the most complete vehicle conversion kit to make your boat go full electric. Our kit can be assembled by anyone with the needed tools. We also provide full documentation and video instructions for an EV conversion.

Our offer includes an EV conversion kit with or without the installation service with a warranty of 2 years on all parts.

Our EV Conversion Kit includes: EV Motor, Controller, Lithium battery pack,  Accelerator,  DC-DC converter 12V, Charger, Emergency stop switch,  Air conditioning assembly, Motor & Battery mount parts and other parts depending on the boat type.

Our offer includes a kit with or without the installation service with a warranty of 2 years.

Why are we better?

Our EV Kits are designed to be the best and most affordable EV kits for any boat type. Our interest is to have a high number of boats converted into EVs and that is possible only by providing a full kit for an affordable price.

We want to be the most reliable EV kit provider by offering you many benefits that nobody else has. That is why we include a 2-year warranty on all our parts and we also have a stock of all spare parts in our local warehouse.

Even years after of expired warranty, you can get any spare part at the best price or you can even upgrade your vehicle with more power or a longer range.

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As we want to provide you with the best satisfaction and the real experience before you purchase an EV kit we have prepared the test vehicles which you can use for a test drive to help you decide about your conversion to EV.

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By converting your boat into an EV you have multiple benefits like you can charge it at home, you don’t need to have yearly oil and filter replacement service, there are much less parts in an EV so it doesn’t break like a normal petrol/diesel engine, you can keep your existing boat which you like and run it with zero CO2 emissions.

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Everything electric boats and boating

Classic look hydrofoiling electric boat debuts in Moscow

A team in Russia has developed this sleek hydrofoiling electric boat with a retro-tech classic runabout look, both inside and out.

The boat is called the Molniya – Russian for ‘lightning’ – and uses fixed surface piercing (SP) foils rather than the retractable inverted-T fully submerged (FS) type on boats like the Candela 7 .

The Molniya prototype was built by Artem Markov and a small team he assembled in Moscow. Markov is a graduate of the Moscow Automobile and Road Construction Institute, where he was part of their Formula MADI electric car racing team that competed against other universities from around the world.

Hydrofoiling electric boat idea started in 2016

Like many other electric boat developers he is also a long time sailor and says “ I have never been able to understand what is the beauty of going on motor boats with a lot of vibration and noise. So, I decided I wanted to find a way to transfer the silence and comfort of a sailing yacht to a boat. The idea came to me in 2016, and from that moment I started working on the project .”

He is a big fan of the work that the team at Candela has been doing, and is well versed in their reasonings of why hydrofoiling is the way to reduce drag and increase efficiency and comfort. So he knew foiling was the way to go and began to design his dream boat.

It is one thing to know exactly what one wants, but b udget realities quite often make inventors adapt. So he found a classic fibreglass-and-aluminum hull and went to work redesigning and converting it. The team had to strengthen and reinforce the hull to handle the stresses from the front foils. At the stern of the boat they designed  protruding half-wings that would help lift the boat onto those front SP foils as it accelerated.

80kW motor mounted to stern drive unit 

That gives the 8.9 m • 29 ft boat a cruising speed of about 20 kts • 37 km/h and maximum speed of 36 kts • 66km/h. As for range, the Molniya can go for 135 Nautical miles at 5 kts, 17 Nm at 25 kts and 20 Nm at the top speed. 

For the battery, they have taken stock lithium-ion cells and developed the modules themselves. The size is 160kW and there are some creative and useful ideas incorporated into the charging and battery management systems. One is the ability to connect a warning system to a GPS route so if you are driving at a speed that is taking yo u beyond range of getting back to shore the motor will automatically slow down. When you do get back, a full 0-100% charge takes 3.5 hours and you can check status through SMS.

One of the intriguing things about the Molniya is that all of the electric boat technology has been incorporated into a striking overall retro look. The dashboard looks like it might have been taken from a 1950s luxury car catalogue, but of course the actual meters are all digital. The interior of the entire boat harkens back to an earlier day, appearing ready to whisk 6 passengers off to a swing era supper club.

From prototype to production

Having built and tested the prototype from an existing hull, the goal of Markov and the team is to move to production mode and use the materials he always envisioned in his dream boat. While the aluminum and fibreglass of the original have been useful for testing, speed and range will benefit from materials like much lighter carbon-kevlar.

The adapted stern drive was useful for proving the hydrofoiling electric boat concept, but all of the designers and engineers are keen to see the improved efficiency they will get from a motor, drive and battery system they have designed from scratch for the Molniya. As for the foils themselves, the production model will use lighter, thinner composites instead of stainless steel.

Obviously the spring and summer of 2020 has not provided the best opportunities to introduce the prototype at boat shows and stir up interest with consumers, the trade or investors. It seems, though that the Molniya is the type of boat that should appeal to peopl looking for the same thing Artem wanted for himself: a classic motor boat experience but one that is quiet, odour free…and smooth sailing.

You can find out more on the Molniya website, lightning-foil.com .

Exciting things are happening every day in electric boats and boating. Subscribe to the Plugboats newsletter so you don’t miss a thing!

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Electric boats

Flying electric ferries battle to smoothly sail commuters over the wave crests.

As electric boats slowly gain market share among recreational boaters, a different breed of silent, efficient speed boats is now targetting commuters. Hydrofoil electric ferries are coming to a river or lake near you, and multiple companies are working to make it happen.

I’ve had the pleasure of covering electric boats for years, where I’ve seen just about everything the nascent industry has to offer. But it’s the hydrofoil electric boats that are making the biggest departure from the norm.

Compared to traditional V-hull or catamaran vessels routinely used as ferries, hydrofoil boats use significantly less energy to travel the same distance on the water. Hydrofoils, which work like an airplane’s wing placed underwater, lift the entire boat’s hull into the air. With significantly lower resistance, the boat essentially flies while using as little as 20% of the same energy required by a planning boat.

Hydrofoil boats have been around for decades, but more recent advances have replaced older internal combustion engines with electric motors, taking these boats to the next level.

The biggest name in the game is undoubtedly Stockholm-based Candela , which first sailed its prototype hydrofoil electric boat back in 2016 and has been in production since 2018. The company began with multiple models of electric speedboats for recreational boating. Now, its newest model, the Candela P-12, is going commercial for use as a ferry in rivers, lakes, and archipelagos like around its home waters in Stockholm.

The P-12 has been undergoing water trials since last year , ahead of its first commercial operations.

One of its first operators will employ it on the world’s cleanest lake, Lake Manapōuri in New Zealand, where it is expected to replace 240 tons of CO2 emissions each year by replacing combustion engine boats.

While Candela undoubtedly leads the industry, other hydrofoil electric boats have cropped up in the last couple years. Vessev , an Auckland, New Zealand-based startup, has just announced the successful completion of two weeks of intensive water testing for its VS-9 electric hydrofoil ferry.

“We have been pushing the VS—9 less than two weeks after its first flight and she has been ticking all the boxes and more,” announced Vessev CEO Eric Laakmann earlier today. “On some of our test sessions, we had 25 knots gusting 35 with wind waves to match and she was cruising over the waves.

According to the company, which released the video below, the testing occurred in sea states featuring chop and waves averaging around 75 cm (2’6″) and peaking at 100 cm (3’3″).

The VS-9 is designed to transport up to nine passengers, though Vessev claims to be developing a much larger 100-passenger hydrofoil ferry for larger operators.

San Francisco, California-based electric boat startup Navier also plans to target the commercial ferry market with its first model.

Debuted in 2023 , the Navier N30 announced its first official pilot program earlier this year. The hydrofoiling electric boat was said to be partnering with payment platform Stripe to ferry its employees from San Francisco’s outskirts to the downtown area.

The plan would showcase how the normally one-hour drive could be transformed into a much more efficient half-hour ferry ride on a hydrofoil electric ferry.

Electrek’s Take

I’ve test-driven a few hydrofoil electric boats, and I’ve always been amazed by how easy they are to operate and how smooth the ride is.

On Candela’s electric boats, I’ve been able to cut right across the wakes left by cruise ships while feeling barely a ripple.

Ferries can replace a significant number of cars in waterside cities, but making the experience more pleasant and efficient is key to getting more drivers out of their cars. With hydrofoil electric boats, not only do the journeys use significantly less energy, but they’re also smoother and more enjoyable. I’ll admit to being prone to seasickness, yet I’ve never gotten even a tad bit queasy on a hydrofoil electric boat.

Check out one of my last hydrofoil electric boat test drives below, where I took the Candela C-8 for a spin around Stockholm.

FTC: We use income earning auto affiliate links. More.

Micah Toll is a personal electric vehicle enthusiast, battery nerd, and author of the Amazon #1 bestselling books DIY Lithium Batteries , DIY Solar Power,   The Ultimate DIY Ebike Guide  and The Electric Bike Manifesto .

The e-bikes that make up Micah’s current daily drivers are the $999 Lectric XP 2.0 , the $1,095 Ride1Up Roadster V2 , the $1,199 Rad Power Bikes RadMission , and the $3,299 Priority Current . But it’s a pretty evolving list these days.

You can send Micah tips at [email protected], or find him on Twitter , Instagram , or TikTok .

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VESSEL REVIEW | Sinichka – Electric commuter boats designed for Russia’s Moskva River

A series of three new electric monohull commuter ferries have already begun operational sailings on the Moskva River in the Russian capital Moscow.

Built by Russian shipyard Emperium, sister vessels Sinichka , Filka , and Presnya – all named after rivers in Moscow – are being operated by the Moscow Department of Transport and Road Infrastructure Development (Moscow Deptrans). They are the first units of a planned fleet of 20 vessels that will serve the capital city and other nearby communities. The new ferry system will be the water transport system to be operated on the Moskva River in 16 years.

Each vessel has a welded aluminium hull, an LOA of 21 metres, a beam of 6.2 metres, a draught of only 1.4 metres, a displacement of 40 tonnes, and capacity for 80 passengers plus two crewmembers. Seating is available for 42 passengers on each ferry, and the main cabins are also fitted with USB charging ports, wifi connectivity, tables, toilets, and space for bicycles and scooters. The cabin layout can be rearranged to allow the operator to adjust the distances between the seats and to install armrests of varying widths.

An open upper deck is also accessible to passengers and is the only area on each ferry where smoking is allowed.

The ferries are all of modular construction with each ferry’s wheelhouse, main cabin, and other structural elements being built as complete, separate components. This enables the ferries to be easily dismantled for transport to anywhere in Russia by rail and then quickly re-assembled within seven days.

The ferries are also ice-capable. Recently completed operational trials on the Moskva showed that the vessels can also easily navigate under mild winter conditions with broken surface ice, though year-round operations are planned for the entire fleet.

The ferries are each fitted with 500kWh lithium iron phosphate battery packs that supply power to two 134kW motors. This configuration can deliver a maximum speed of 11.8 knots, a cruising speed of just under 10 knots, and a range of 150 kilometres.

Emperium said the transfer of rotation of electric motors to the propeller is carried out by direct drive. As a propulsion installation, a pulling rotary propeller-steering column with double screws is used. The installation of double pulling screws, with similar power, allows an operator to increase the efficiency of the propulsion system to deliver a slightly higher speed or to reduce energy consumption. This arrangement also provides the ferries with enhanced manoeuvrability necessary for navigating in close quarters.

The batteries themselves have projected service lives of 10 to 12 years and are fitted with safety features such as built-in fire extinguishers and gas vents. Quick-disconnect features allow the batteries to be easily removed for replacement or maintenance.

Some of our readers have expressed disquiet at our publication of reviews and articles describing new vessels from Russia. We at Baird Maritime can understand and sympathise with those views. However, despite the behaviour of the country’s leaders, we believe that the maritime world needs to learn of the latest developments in vessel design and construction there.

Click here to read other news stories, features, opinion articles, and vessel reviews as part of this month’s Passenger Vessel Week.

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Tags: Emperium Filka Moscow Moscow Department of Transport and Road Infrastructure Development Moskva River Presnya Russia Sinichka WBW newbuild

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How I bypassed the speed restriction on my NCM 500W/48V Moscow Plus 29er.

• Thread starter FullyCharged
• Start date Mar 23, 2020
• Tags das-kit c7 ncm speed restrictions tuning display

FullyCharged

Active member.

• Mar 23, 2020

Kommunikation zwischen C7 Display und Motorkontroller NCM Venice+ Das-Kit

I have already published my research and results in the 'other' pedelec and E bike forum, but I hope to also reach other interested people here. First of all, thanks to Arthus Dent who started over a year ago and based on his work. My NCM Venice + 48V e-bike with Das-Kit C7 display and probably Lishui controller. On the back of the display is C600-1705- B640 V2.7-EN . After entering the code (8018), the display only allows you to change three support levels (Eco Normal Power) and to select the voltage 36 or 48V. Lockdown speed and wheel diameter are not accessible. There are very poorly available € 119 tuning displays in which the last two things can also be changed. So I cut the cable open and found out the function of the cable and the pin assignment using an oscilloscope and logic analyzer (yellow is thumb gas with the usual about 1 to 4 volts) Messages with 9600 baud at 3.3Volt TTL levels are exchanged on the data lines so that I could examine the protocol via USB TTL adapter. At approx. 10 Hz, 12 bytes come from the display to the controller, which responds with 10 bytes. Without a message from the display, nothing is sent from the controller. If you put the switch-on signal on the supply voltage, the controller uses the last setting and also works without a display. For better testing, I soldered a pin header into the cable so that I can easily interrupt individual signals: But now the exciting results: Display -> Motor controller b0 b1 b2 b3 b4 b5 b6 b7 b8 b9 b10 b11 3A 2C 0A 46 1A 48 08 06 EC 00 0D 0A Byte0: always 3A Byte1: always 2C Byte2: changes depending on the support level 09 with Eco 0A with Normal 0B on Power Byte3: changes with drive level 0x56 pushing aid 0x40 level 0 0x41 level 1 ... to 0x46 level 6 Byte4: final speed 0x1A = 26km / h Byte5:? Byte6:? Byte7:? Byte8: checksum (b1 + b2 + b3 + b4 + b5 + b6 + b7) mod 256 Byte9:? Byte10 and 11: 0D 0A (CR LF) * The controller responds accordingly: Controller -> Display b0 b1 b2 b3 b4 b5 b6 b7 b8 b9 3A 2C 00 60 EA 00 76 01 0D 0A b0: always 3A b1: always 2C b2: motor current 0x00 to 0x2A not yet checked but makes sense , when the rear wheel is up and pedaling brings a short 01 b3: cycle time v = 1325 / b3 (at 27.5 ") at standstill always 0x60 b4: b3 and b4 are low byte and high byte of the cycle time. b5: engine running: 0x00 im Standstill, goes to 0x16 as soon as the motor is switched on b6: checksum (b1 + b2 + b3 + b4 + b5) mod 256 b7: in stand 0x00 when the rear wheel turns 6km / h + -0.8km / h it goes to 0x01. Even at about 2km / h, in a smaller speed window. b8 and 9: 0D 0A (CR LF) Next I grabbed a microcontroller (Teensy) and changed the messages coming from the display to the controller so that when I selected level two, I sent it to controller 6 at 36km / h maximum speed . With 3D printed housing: Depending on the battery voltage, the controller regulates at 29 to 32 km / h. Since the bike is also sold in the USA by Magnumbikes as Metro Plus with 500Watt and 45km / h, I hope there is more. But it may be that another motor is installed there that can turn faster. If you are interested I can also write more detailed instructions on how to connect and program a 5 Euro microcontroller there. In case someone just wants to replicate it. You could also build a simple adapter and would have a pluggable solution. Sebastian Click to expand...

the bike is also sold in the USA by Magnumbikes as Metro Plus with 500Watt and 45km / h, I hope there is more. But it may be that another motor is installed there that can turn faster. Click to expand...

Attachments

Deleted member 4210

Interesting. I swapped the Magnum display and controller both onto NCM Aspen+, and it didn't make any difference at all. Did this 4 months ago.  

Deleted Member 4210 said: Interesting. I swapped the Magnum display and controller both onto NCM Aspen+, and it didn't make any difference at all. Did this 4 months ago. Click to expand...

I'm going to test the correct speed with a gps app on my phone tomorrow sometime. Also planning to see if changing tire size will affect anything.  

• Mar 25, 2020

Deleted Member 4210 said: I stock multiple of their displays as I am a Magnum dealer. Also an NCM dealer. Click to expand...

Other things I noticed. The battery meter doesn't work on the G660 when connected to my NCM, only voltage. Changing the tire size does nothing for increasing speed.  

• Mar 26, 2020

Burak said: Hello, I am planning on buying Aspen Plus or Moscow Plus. Anyway, could you help me step by step on how to unlock the true potential of this bike please, I am new to ebiking and i have no idea what to do whats so ever lol. Click to expand...

• Apr 11, 2020

FullyCharged said: The first thing that came to my mind after my first ride on my 48V/500W NCM Moscow Plus was "How can I make this bike faster?" Throttle was maxed at 20mph(32km/hr) and the Petal Assist top speed was limited to 23mph.(37km/h) I knew the motor was capable of much more to stay within the specs of Class 3. So I made it my mission to try to find a hack or aftermarket hardware that would run my bike at the sweet spot of 28mph/45 kmh (Top end of Class 3) I took to the internet to figure out my problem. After hours of digging through the interwebs I came across this thread in a german pedelec forum. Kommunikation zwischen C7 Display und Motorkontroller NCM Venice+ Das-Kit Moin, ich habe bereits im dem 'anderen' pedelec und E bike Forum meine Untersuchung und Ergebnisse veröffentlicht, hoffe aber hier zusätzlich noch weitere interessierte Leute zu erreichen. Zunächst einmal ein Dank an Arthus Dent der schon vor über einem Jahr damit angefangen hat und auf dessen... www.pedelecforum.de Code: https://www.pedelecforum.de/forum/index.php?threads/kommunikation-zwischen-c7-display-und-motorkontroller-ncm-venice-das-kit.57050/page-1 A member by the name of vspadrva made some interesting advances. He managed to use an oscilloscope and logic analyzer to reverse engineer the Das-Kit C7 Display and create code using a microcontroller (ESP2866) to intercept the data being sent through the bikes data cables. Here's a translated quote of his OP on that thread. The thread goes on and other smart programmers find a way to change the data values NCM set it place with their custom firmware. Eventually they created an open sourced project on github (which has some cool features) After reading all of this and checking out the code on github. I had a good understanding what needs to be done to go that route and hack the display. It wasn't something that I was interested at all to attempt to achieve. Also those german riders had 250W motor kits installed and were only trying to go as fast as my bike already could stock. (Due to speed restrictions in Europe) So now what? Something from vspadrva's post stuck with me. Click to expand...

wattrider said: I built vspadrva's controller override module, it works well. Also modded it to send the motor power readings to my phone. Glenn. Click to expand...

Well-Known Member

• Apr 18, 2020

This is great info. I wonder if they make a higher amperage controller that is compatible. Paying 2x as much for a Magnum display to get a few mph faster doesn't really seem worth it to me. I would want to make it a legit Class 3 to make it worth while if that was possible  

• Apr 23, 2020

FullyCharged said: Can you please make a thread. Would love to see your setup and have a place to ask questions. Welcome to the EBR forums. Click to expand...

• May 13, 2020

FullyCharged said: I can tell you there is a difference in the ride when you have the other on. Maybe not 28mph fast, but faster than a stock NCM display. The biggest difference is when you have a full battery. With the G660 Display installed its like the bike is on steroids. Acceleration is faster and doesn't lag as much. I was testing on the strip of road out front of my house today. Full battery starts for both tests. Click to expand...

For some, little gains = big rewards. I almost pulled the trigger on NVM Aspen+ but for a couple hundred more, I ended up getting a Juiced Rip Current because it is already class 3 and comes with 52v battery.  

Deleted Member 4210 said: You went to a lot of work and expense for no reason. The NCM Moscow Plus's that come in to my shop are already able to do 25 to 26 mph. No need to change display or firmware. Click to expand...

• May 15, 2020

So - just wondering - what does running the bike at 25+ mph do to battery life? I haven't consistently kept mine a 20, but I imagine it drains much quicker...  

• May 29, 2020

FullyCharged said: The first thing that came to my mind after my first ride on my 48V/500W NCM Moscow Plus was "How can I make this bike faster?" Throttle was maxed at 20mph(32km/hr) and the Petal Assist top speed was limited to 23mph.(37km/h) I knew the motor was capable of much more to stay within the specs of Class 3. So I made it my mission to try to find a hack or aftermarket hardware that would run my bike at the sweet spot of 28mph/45 kmh (Top end of Class 3) I took to the internet to figure out my problem. After hours of digging through the interwebs I came across this thread in a german pedelec forum. Kommunikation zwischen C7 Display und Motorkontroller NCM Venice+ Das-Kit Moin, ich habe bereits im dem 'anderen' pedelec und E bike Forum meine Untersuchung und Ergebnisse veröffentlicht, hoffe aber hier zusätzlich noch weitere interessierte Leute zu erreichen. Zunächst einmal ein Dank an Arthus Dent der schon vor über einem Jahr damit angefangen hat und auf dessen... www.pedelecforum.de Code: https://www.pedelecforum.de/forum/index.php?threads/kommunikation-zwischen-c7-display-und-motorkontroller-ncm-venice-das-kit.57050/page-1 A member by the name of vspadrva made some interesting advances. He managed to use an oscilloscope and logic analyzer to reverse engineer the Das-Kit C7 Display and create code using a microcontroller (ESP2866) to intercept the data being sent through the bikes data cables. Here's a translated quote of his OP on that thread. The thread goes on and other smart programmers find a way to change the data values NCM set it place with their custom firmware. Eventually they created an open sourced project on github (which has some cool features) After reading all of this and checking out the code on github. I had a good understanding what needs to be done to go that route and hack the display. It wasn't something that I was interested at all to attempt to achieve. Also those german riders had 250W motor kits installed and were only trying to go as fast as my bike already could stock. (Due to speed restrictions in Europe) So now what? Something from vspadrva's post stuck with me. This got me looking at Magnumbikes website. Low and behold they run the same Das-Kit C7/i5 controller system (data protocol) as my NCM bike but can reach 28MPH! This brought me to youtube looking up display tuning videos for Das-Kit C7 displays. MagnumBikes has a video posted there. I watched it and saw the tuning screens (Pedal Assist/Throttle) that my NCM doesn't have in its settings menu . After watching, I starting thinking that maybe the speed restriction data is stored in the Das-Kit i5 Controller firmware. I would be SOL unless I changed the Controller and the Display. But then I saw this image attached on that same german pedelec thread. View attachment 48098 Once I saw those chips, I knew there was firmware in the displays restricting the speed tuning options. I ordered a Magnumbikes C7 - 5 wire display. View attachment 48108 View attachment 48099 Got it today, removed my stock NCM display and installed Magnums. Guess what? I can now go 25mph on assist and 23mph on throttle. Here's a YT video of the new Display and the tuning options it gives my NCM Moscow Plus. YOUTUBE LINK ​ Hope this helps some of you out there wanting to go faster or tune the bike to go slower. Click to expand...

Steve Webb said: Really appreciate the help. Having fitted my C7 new display with throttle it is definately a bit quicker but the power only assists up to 20 mph. I followed your video tutorial and one setting lets me set at 28 mph but the next screen will only allow setting up to 20 mph, it is the screen showing the capital T on its side l- . Any advice as to why not getting the 28mph option here would be much appreciated. Click to expand...

My Mrs has the identical NSM Moscow but with the original L7 display, and certainly not much more than 5mph difference in speeds. Will try with a GPS app though when get a chance, but thanks for advice.  

• May 30, 2020

FullyCharged said: Interesting, what firmware does your stock NCM Moscow +’s come with? Click to expand...

• Jun 25, 2020

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NCM Moscow Plus

An e-mountain bike equipped with high-end brake and drive systems, the NCM M5 is for adventurous riders who want to hit the trails comfortable in the knowledge that their ebike can handle whatever they throw at it.

BIKE COMPONENTS

Frame: Alu. 6061, 26"*17.3 inches / Alu. 6061, 27.5"*18.9 inches / Alu. 6061, 29"*20.5 inches

Suspension Fork: Suntour, XCM-HLO-26/27.5/29, with hydraulic lock system

Brake: F/R: Tektro Hydraulic Disc Brakes,HD-E350

Freewheel: LY, 8 Speed, 11-32T, Silver

Tire: Schwalbe, Black Jack, 26"*2.1/Smart Sam, 27.5"*2.35/29"*2.35, Black

Saddle: Selle Royal, Lookin-A200UR, Black

Crank: Das-Kit, CM48,28/38/48T

Derailleur: F: Shimano, Altus, FD-M310, R: Shimano, Acera, RD-M360

ELECTRIC COMPONENTS

Battery: Das-Kit, i5-4816, 48V 16AH, 768WH

Hub Motor Rated / Peak Power: Das-Kit, X15, 48V 500W / 900W

Controller: Das-Kit, CT-i5, 48V 18A

Charger: Das-Kit, 48V3A

Display: Das-Kit, C7 

Net Weight (with battery): 57.0 lbs

Battery Weight: 9.1 lbs

Max Load (driver+bike): 275.0 lbs

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Our on-line store is open 24/7 and we ship Monday through Friday, excluding some holidays. Orders received for products without shipping restrictions on its product page will ship the same business day when received before 12:00 p.m. PST. Orders in high demand will have an estimated production time listed on its product page and will ship according to the date listed.

Customer Reviews

Very happy with my new M7 and wife's Moscow Plus

We purchased the NCM Moscow 29 E bike from Leon Cycles earlier this month. Communication was via 'Whatsapp' which I initially thought a little odd but worked out well. Once communication established the transaction was completed quickly and easily. We were able to arrange for the team to assemble the bike for us and we picked it up from the warehouse without an issue. We love the bike and are continuing to find new places to discover using it. Competitive price and great service.

I ordered the bike 4 days ago and today it arrived. Now my first impressions: it is easy to assemble, looks great, is cleanly finished and after a first short driving test I have to say, the hammer. It's totally easy to drive. If it stays that way, I can only say thank you Leon Cycle. Now I can cycle again, despite knee problems. Price-performance top

Great bike, this is my second e bike and by far the best. Watching e bikes over the last 10 years I think the Moscow 29er is fantastic. I live in the Dandenongs outside Melbourne with big steep hills and the Moscow takes them all on with great pulling power and gear range. 48v with 16 amps means over 750 watts of power. The bike is big and serious so getting on and off can be tricky but you do get used to it. With the previous bike (36v at 8amps) I was scared of running out of battery on a big hill and having to push the bike home but not with the Moscow. Also if you take the front wheel off you can get it in a hatchback like my Mazda 3 Which is nice. At $2200 it is a great buy.

Purchased two Moscow 27.5. One for my wife, one for me. Fast delivery, well boxed and easy assembly. Absolutely FANTASTIC to ride and use. Great range, and enough power for steep hills and tough terrain. I highly recommend them. Exactly as advertised and brochure. Looked at many options from other suppliers but these are the best value for money. If anyone wants a little extra range and a few more features then a Moscow Plus may suit. 48 Volt is the way to go. Great support and assistance from the team at Leon to make the right purchase decision. Hope other people may enjoy the ride and quality product. Harry G

Highlighted Features

Das-Kit 500W Motor

Ergonomic handlebar grips

Moscow 48V disc brake

Product specifications.

Battery: Das-Kit, i5-4816, 48V 16Ah, 768Wh

Hub Motor Rated / Peak Power: Das-Kit, X15, 48V 500W / 750W

Display: Das-Kit, C7

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Mousey media failed by not making Donald Trump's unhinged shark story major news

Opinion: it is a real problem for the media – and the country – when the fear of appearing biased prevents us from being honest..

I do not understand what people in my business are so afraid of.

The mainstream media failed to adequately report the most important Donald Trump story of the weekend .

Trump’s ability to sic his MAGA followers on anyone who crosses him makes it understandable (if not honorable) to see why every single Republican politician in America is afraid of being honestly critical of him.

But the mainstream media is also afraid of Trump. That, I do not get.

Media should highlight incoherent rants

Too many respectable journalists and respectable journalistic institutions have allowed the fear of appearing biased to prevent them from being honest.

From pointing out serious areas of concern about Trump’s grasp of reality, as evidenced by an off-the-rails diatribe involve sharks and water and a “ tremendously powerful battery .”

I’m not talking about gaffes.

I’m not overly troubled when Trump mispronounces a word or bungles the name of a foreign leader or mixes up the dates of events in the past. Joe Biden does the same thing , with about the same regularity.

But there are rambling screeds that Trump goes on during his speeches that should be genuinely concerning.

It’s the kind of thing that would be worrisome if done by an elderly member of your family. It’s the kind of disquieting recognition you have when you pass a ranting homeless guy on a street corner.

Trump's involved sharks, a boat and battery

During his speech in Las Vegas over the weekend, for example, Trump suddenly veered into a bizarre fantasy involving sharks and boats and batteries and MIT.

I am not making this up.

This is a candidate looking to be elected president of the United States.

It is not unreasonable for reasonable people in the media to ask if anyone — ANYONE — could explain what Trump was talking about when he wandered off the path of reality and babbled:

“So I said, let me ask you a question, and he said, nobody ever asked this question and it must be because of MIT, my relationship to MIT. Very smart.

“He goes, I say, what would happen if the boat sank from its weight? And you’re in the boat and you have this tremendously powerful battery and the battery is now underwater and there’s a shark that’s approximately 10 yards over there, by the way, a lot of shark attacks lately, do you notice that a lot of shark?

Gosar wants Trump on the $500 bill? Yeah, it's a cult

“I watched some guys justifying it today. Well, they weren’t really that angry. They bit off the young lady’s leg because of the fact that they were, they were not hungry, but they misunderstood what who she was? These people are.

“He said there’s no problem with sharks. They just didn’t really understand a young woman swimming now. It really got decimated and other people do a lot of shark attacks.

“So I said, so there’s a shark 10 yards away from the boat, 10 yards or here, do I get electrocuted if the boat is sinking? Water goes over the battery, the boat is sinking. Do I stay on top of the boat and get electrocuted or do I jump over by the shark and not get electrocuted?

“Because I will tell you he didn’t know the answer. He said, you know, nobody’s ever asked me that question. I said, I think it’s a good question. I think there’s a lot of electric current coming through that water. But you know what I’d do if there was a shark or you get electrocuted, I’ll take electrocution every single time.”

In what way is expressing concern about a presidential candidate who says such a thing bias? Is there a person anywhere who could explain how any of that fits into a campaign speech for the presidency?

Or how it fits … period?

Reach Montini at  [email protected] .

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