yachtcare antifouling plus

Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

How to antifoul your boat: a step by step guide

• Theo Stocker
• April 23, 2021

No one likes to antifoul their yacht, but keeping a boat free of the harmful growth is vital. Adam Fiander shares how to get it right

Using the right kind of paint, properly applied, will give you faster sailing, reduce fuel consumption and help reduce your environmental impact. Credit: Theo Stocker

How to antifoul your boat

No one likes the annual effort and cost of antifouling, but keeping the underside of a yacht free of the unsightly, costly and potentially harmful effects of aquatic fouling has challenged and vexed owners for decades.

Apart from a few exceptions where water is at its coldest, almost no matter where you keep your yacht in the UK, sailors are faced with some of the harshest and most virulent underwater fouling in Europe.

Green and brown seaweed, slime, kelp, sponges, sea squirts, worm casings, barnacles and mussels are vying to take hold and build an entirely natural but unwanted community on your hull and appendages.

This incurs lacklustre sailing performance, unresponsive handling and increased fuel burn.

Protective equipment is vital during the application of antifoul. Credit: Graham Snook

But it’s not just about keeping the hull and propeller clean .

If the risk of transferring harmful non-native species from one region to another wasn’t a good motive, then the fact that health and safety authorities are currently reviewing antifoul product approvals should be.

Since the Biocidal Products Regulation (528/2012) was introduced in 2012, European antifoul paint manufacturers have worked hard to maintain performance from a reduced list of approved active substances they can now use.

Some products have remained unchanged, others have been dropped from product lines completely, and others have received some ‘tweaking’.

Continues below…

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What happens when they ban antifoul?

Some countries are threatening to ban the use of copper in antifouling by 2020 – but will other products take…

Eco friendly sailing: Best practice for green yachting

How easy is it to go eco friendly sailing? We look at the steps cruisers can take to minimise their…

Propeller antifouling tested: Prop Defender

How well does propeller antifouling work? Yachting Monthly editor Theo Stocker tests Prop Defender over a full season to find…

Correct procedures to protect the environment and personal safety risks to applying these paints are being considered at the same time.

If the process of applying those highly effective pesticides is not given approval for continued DIY use, then applying antifoul as a ‘professional-only’ application may become a reality.

Being seen to adequately protect yourself, the environment and those around you in the coming months is key.

The British Coatings Federation, trade body for the coatings industry, set up the Protect, Collect, Dispose campaign ( www.thegreenblue.org.uk ) to educate boat owners in the correct procedures to follow, which, happily, will also help your new layer of antifoul adhere better and last longer.

Different antifoul types

The type of antifouling product to use depends upon your hull material, where you use your boat, how much money you want to spend on it and how often you plan to maintain the underwater coating.

By far the most common choice of DIY-applied paints are normally either a hard (self-polishing), or erodible (ablative) type.

Applied by either roller or brush, these types contain sufficient active ingredients – organic and non-organic compounds such as copper, zinc and booster biocides suspended in a resin or a solvent-based formulation that will last for one, possibly two, or even up to three seasons’ protection, depending upon boat use, quality, type and whether enough coats have been applied correctly to the required film-thickness.

Hi-tech solutions

Other ideas known to work well either as stand-alone solutions, or when used in conjunction with ‘traditional’ types, are sonic transducers that emit specific frequencies that prevent fouling from attaching.

Having sailed since the early 1990s, Adam Fiander cruised and raced a variety of yachts. He has years of experience working with antifoul products and produced the video for the BCF’s Safe Antifouling Initiative. www.safeantifouling.com

More well-known are long- term, copper-rich, durable solutions that have more lengthy application procedures, but offer up to 10 or more years’ protection, though these need to be applied under very controlled conditions and are normally professionally done.

Also having emerged in the last few years, vinyl-wrap coverings rely upon the slipperiness of the vinyl and can be easily peeled at the end of their life, though this raises questions about the use of disposable plastics.

Other coatings containing silicone, Teflon and PTFE are available, as are coatings using nanotechnology, but these are more geared towards high-end racing boats.

The science behind antifouling is changing all the time.

As copper is the predominant force in the majority of coatings, it’s important to check compatibility with the hull substrate you intend to antifoul.

Aluminium hulls, for example, require a different copper formulation to that found in the majority of copper-based antifouls.

Most existing coatings can be overcoated, but there are exceptions to this rule and those exceptions must be respected.

If you’ve recently bought a brokerage yacht, for example, and don’t know the make or type of the existing coating you have on, then a full barrier/primer coat is your best option.

Or if you want to be totally sure, full removal of the existing coating will give you that complete peace of mind.

How much antifouling paint will you need?

There’s nothing worse than realising two-thirds of the way in that you don’t have enough antifoul to finish the job.

Antifouls generally have a coverage-rate- per-litre on the label or technical data sheet, brochure or website.

Once you’ve established the surface area of your hull, keel and rudder combined, divide this number by the coverage rate for the product you have chosen, giving you the number of litres required per coat.

Some manufacturers offer a simple formula for you to work amounts out easily per each product based upon boat keel type.

For Yachting Monthly ‘s editor Theo Stocker’s 29ft Sadler, we used 4.5 litres of antifoul for two good coats, which suggests that some manufacturers’ tables are a little too cautious in their estimates.

In any event, don’t forget to factor in some extra paint to cover areas such as where the supporting props have been.

And if you spill some paint, you’ll want to have enough to compensate.

Paint quality formula

Surface area = Waterline Length x(Beam + Underwater Depth) x 0.50 (fin keel) or x 0.75 (long keel) Total litres required = Total surface area (m2) ÷ Coverage rate of paint (m2/lt)

Before you start of antifoul

Choose a still, dry day to apply the antifoul. Credit: Graham Snook

Antifouling contains biocides, so wearing personal protective equipment (PPE) is more than just a formality and it should be worn until the final clean-up procedure is complete.

You’ll need coveralls, eye- protection, a mask, a hat or hood, sturdy work boots and appropriate disposable gloves or sturdy reusable gloves.

Most antifouls contain solvents, so if you are working in a boatshed, ventilate the area as much as possible, take regular fresh-air breaks and use a respirator facemask with cartridge filters, as opposed to paper dust masks, which are fairly ineffective.

Even if you are working outside,a respirator mask with filters is still preferable.

Keep pets and children out of the working area and ensure you don’t eat or drink during the process.

Make sure you read and understand the paint labelling, data sheets and product information before starting.

Follow manufacturers guidelines and observe local health & safety recommendations.

You should antifoul outdoors in a safe and secure location and not in a busy or public place, such as a car park.

Locate your boat on a hard-standing, impermeable surface and use a suitable tarpaulin or cover to capture any washings or scrapings.

Weight the tarpaulin down, to avoid tripping up and so it doesn’t blow around in the wind.

Choose a dry day, not too cold or frosty and with as little wind as possible.

Avoid very early mornings or early evening when damp air, dew and condensation might be around.

Upon haul-out take some pictures to compare how your new paint works over the season, then get the hull pressure washed over a bunded catchment area to prevent antifouling entering the sea or ground water.

Surface preparation

The key to antifoul that lasts is ensuring the surface beneath is properly prepared

1. Wash off

Pressure washing is effective but causes a lot of contamination run-off, which needs to be captured. Credit: Theo Stocker

Pressure washing is the easiest way to get the hull clean.

This should be done on a bunded wash-off area, where contaminated water will be collected and stored in a holding tank rather than running back into the sea.

If this isn’t possible, portable bunding is available, or use a tarpaulin to capture removed fouling and paint particles.

2. Scraping

Credit: Graham Snook

Loose or flaking antifoul and small blisters can be scraped.

For removing several layers of old antifouling, gelcoat- friendly chemical removers are useful, as is professional soda-blasting, but never use a blow lamp or heat gun.

If using a scraper, round off the corners to avoid gouging.

3. Keying the surface

Lightly wet-sanding the surface with 60 or 80 grit wet-and-dry paper wrapped over a sanding block will provide a key and help the antifoul to adhere well.

Dry-sanding is not recommended because of the dust it puts in the air which can be inhaled, or get onto other boats’ hulls and decks.

Scrub the waterline and then rinse the hull thoroughly with fresh water.

4. Hull fittings

Protect anodes and skin fittings, exhaust outlets, heater vents and other fittings by wrapping with aluminum foil or taping over and sealing off.

If your anode is due to be replaced , this could be a good time to remove it, but protect the studs from paint.

5. Masking off 

Proceed by masking off the waterline, press the tape down hard to prevent paint or rainwater ingress and ensure a clear masked space around stern gear.

Avoid domestic decorating tape which will leave residue and invest in a good quality, waterproof masking tape – the blue kind will last outside for several weeks if necessary.

6. Patch prime

When you’ve finished rubbing back, bare patches can be ‘patch-primed’ with a suitable primer or barrier coat.

A slap-dash approach simply won’t do it – it’s all in the preparation

1. Paint preparation 

Ensure the antifoul is kept at room temperature so it flows and mixes well, (store in your car, or boatshed with the lids on).

Standing a tin in a bucket of warm water beforehand will do the same job.

Cover the tin completely with an old towel and open the lid carefully to prevent splashbacks from pressure build-up.

2. Stir and pour 

Stir well as the contents, particularly the active ingredients and heavy metal particles, settle and it’s important to achieve a homogenous coating.

Pour into a roller paint tray, or a sturdy paint pot and always re-secure the lid of the tin as solvents will evaporate quickly.

3. Choose your roller carefully 

To ensure a suitably thick coating is applied, use a medium-pile simulated mohair or sheepskin roller, which will avoid slipping across the hull.

Foam rollers disintegrate more quickly, and can slip, causing patches of thin paint.

Don’t spray antifouling paints from a gun – this practice is best left to professionals inside a shed.

If you need a break, cover the roller in cling film to stop it drying out

4. Film thickness 

Load the roller or brush generously and use a small brush where you need a higher degree of accuracy, such as on the waterline.

Try and achieve a minimum dry film- thickness per coat of no less than 60 microns (approx. 120 to 150 microns wet).

Use a Wet Film Thickness Gauge to measure by placing one edge flat on the wet antifoul.

A natural-fibre roller should give roughly the right thickness.

5. Second coat

For the second and successive coats, follow the same procedures as before and observe the correct drying interval times between coats, and the safe-to-relaunch period indicated on the tin.

Make sure you apply extra coverage where friction is greater, such as at the bow and the leading edge of your keel and rudder or skeg, and just beneath the waterline

6. Get the masking off

While the paint still feels tacky, peel back the masking tape for a sharp line that doesn’t stand proud.

Remove the temporary coverings over the anode and skin fittings, and congratulate yourself on a job well done.

Once it’s dry you can mask up again to refresh the boat top if it needs it.

Correct antifoul clean-up

Dispose of antifouling chemicals carefully

Any large spillages should be contained and collected with non-combustible absorbent materials such as sand or earth and disposed of properly as hazardous waste.

All PPE, apart from goggles, should be disposed of in appropriate hazardous waste collection bins.

Contaminated water needs to be poured into a bunded drain. Credit: Graham Snook

Scrapings from your tarpaulin can be emptied into an old tin and disposed of likewise.

Dirty water from washing down the hull should be disposed of in bunded catchment drains.

Please don’t casually discard this in a hedgerow or scatter it across the boatyard as the biocides will leach into the groundwater.

Waste material is gathered up and put into hazardous waste. Credit: Graham Snook

Don’t take any contaminated equipment, half-used tins of paint or soiled PPE off-site.

In particular, don’t retain these in your car and then drive off because the paint and solvent fumes may impair your ability to drive safely, or will at least give you a thumping headache by the time you get home!

The results

After a season in the water, this coat of antifoul on the editor’s boat had lasted much better than the previous year’s application.

Granted, she had sailed fewer miles, but there were no patches of undercoat showing through on the keel, no rust bubbling up on the keel, and no more than a thin slime on the hull, with no serious weed, barnacles or algae.

Freshly painted, the antifoul looked smart. After a season in the water, there was some slime but no significant growth. Credit: Theo Stocker

Theo realised he had missed painting one of the spots where the props had supported the boat before it was dropped in the water, and this was much more coarsely fouled.

The propeller did not fare quite so well and had been colonised by a thin layer of coral worm and weed, despite the silicone-based antifoul, though it did come off with the pressure washer without much complaint.

Painting in other locations

Not everyone will be antifouling in a fully kitted out boatyard.

Those with boats on more basic hard standings, using scrubbing posts, or cleaning off between tides will need to take responsibility for reducing risk to themselves, others around them and the environment.

To prevent toxic paint waste entering the sea, groundwater, or general environment, a full-length tarpaulin is essential, or for clubs where bunded drainage isn’t available, portable bunding – a tarpaulin with edges and a means to collect waste water – is an inexpensive alternative.

Plan where you will dispose of hazardous waste. Credit: Graham Snook

Clearly signpost the area to keep passers-by from coming close.

A few cones and ‘hazardous area’ protection tape would be a good idea.

Plan beforehand how and where you are going to dispose of your hazardous waste including paint chips, antifoul residue, used paint tins and brushes, either at a nearby marina, or a council recycling centre, though check beforehand which ones accept hazardous waste.

Scrubbing posts

Using scrubbing posts is cheaper than lifting out, but makes it harder to antifoul safely and effectively. Credit: Alamy

Many places around the UK still offer scrubbing grids on which you can dry out between tides, either against freestanding posts, or against a harbour wall, although some harbours are considering doing away with this facility because of the difficulty in preventing antifouling run-off from entering the water.

If you are going to use scrubbing posts, here are a few tips to follow:

• Check the posts are suitable for your boat and at what tidal heights you’ll need to get onto the scrubbing grid. Don’t just use a harbour wall as the base is unlikely to be firm enough to support your boat.
• As the tide ebbs, make sure the boat leans towards the posts with a line from the masthead to a strong point ashore. Lash the boat firmly to the posts fore and aft, and untie only as the tide reaches the waterline.
• You can scrub or scrape your hull clean, but pressure washers are not permitted due to the amount of run-off.
• Use just enough pressure to clean the hull; if the water runs blue beneath the boat, you’re pressing too hard.
• Use a tarpaulin to catch as much debris as possible. Laying a rope around the edge will catch some of the smaller fragments and sediment.
• Applying antifoul between tides is not ideal as the hull needs to be completely dry, and the paint needs time to set properly. If you are doing it, doing so over the course of two tides may give you more time, but the performance of your antifoul may be reduced.

Antifoul top tips

• Don’t forget to patch in where the prop supports were when the boat is in the slings on the way to the water, or ask if the boat can be held in the slings overnight.
• Use masking tape to seal off where your coveralls leave your wrists exposed – antifoul has a nasty habit of finding its way on to any areas of exposed skin, including face, neck and ears!
• Take the opportunity to inspect the hull for any obvious signs of wear and treat any serious issues such as osmosis professionally before proceeding.
• This is also a good time to repair any surface defects. If you have a cast iron keel there may be some surface pitting, which can be filled with epoxy – car body filler epoxy is a good cheap option. Race boats will invest a lot of time ensuring their keels are fared to a perfect, symmetrical aerofoil shape.
• Use a workmate bench or similar – scrabbling around on the floor opening and stirring tins is uncomfortable and encourages spills and accidents to happen.
• Invest in a proper flat-bladed paint stirrer – a thin screwdriver to stir heavy antifoul paint won’t work well enough.
• Wrap masking tape across a new paint roller, then remove it to take off loose hairs that would otherwise come off on to your fresh paint film. Allow yourself enough time and avoid rushing the job at all costs.
• If it is going to rain when antifouling, use the widest blue masking tape to make a gutter. Stick some balls of tape just above the waterline and then stretch the tape across the supports. It will keep the coating below dry while it cures.
• Keep some dermatological hand- wipes or purpose designed cleansers close by, so that the splashes can be dealt with quickly before they are allowed to dry. Should antifoul encounter skin, wash immediately with warm soapy water and don’t use a solvent or paint thinner.

Teamac Antifouling D Plus

We used a navy-blue, self-polishing antifoul from Teamac called Antifouling D Plus, priced at £89.93 inc VAT for 2.5 litres.

This high copper-oxide product with added co-biocides is for sailing yachts and powerboats up to 30 knots speed.

Two good coats gave us a smooth finish and this should last for between 18 to 24 months reliable fouling protection.

Buy Teamact Antifoulung D Plus from Amazon (UK)

For more information visit: The Green Blue, www.thegreenblue.org.uk and the British Coatings Federation www.safeantifouling.com

*Yachting Monthly is not paid by manufacturers for our recommendations. If you click through and buy an item, we may receive a small amount of money from the retailer, at no cost to you.*

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• Repainting the Boat

The Best Antifouling Paints Tested and Compared

Applying antifoul to the underwater hull of your boat is necessary to keep organisms away that could slow it down or cause it to erode. But which antifouling paints really offer reliable protection? Which is the best antifoul? And how do various antifouling products perform when tested and compared directly? Find answers to these questions in this test and comparison guide to antifouling . It also includes important information about the costs of various antifouling products .

• Which antifouling is the best?

Antifouling paints in comparison

• Comparison: Biocide-free and self-polishing antifouling
• Comparison: Hard and thin film antifouling
• Antifouling test
• Antifouling cost

The great SVB antifoul comparison Biocide-free and self-polishing antifouling in comparison

Self-polishing antifouling 2024.

Note: Comparing antifoulings directly can be difficult, as even small changes in the boat and the environment can have an influence on possible fouling.

For this reason, in this antifouling comparison, self-polishing antifoulings and biocide-free antifoulings are compared with each other, as are hard antifouling and thin-layer antifoulings . The reason for this is that these types of antifouling work in different ways. Self-polishing antifouling gradually wears off by itself, releasing biocides and thus protecting your boat from fouling. Hard antifouling forms a hard surface that gradually releases bioactive substances to protect against fouling. And thin film antifouling protects your boat from organisms attaching by providing a very smooth surface. This antifouling comparison guide does not compare specific antifouling applications, such as for propeller & sterndrive.

Hard & Thin Film Antifouling Comparison

Hard antifouling is best used on faster boats, such as motor yachts.

Hard & Thin Film Antifouling 2024

I am very happy with Seatec antifouling. Nice priceperformance ratio.

I have used this for years. It discolours at the waterline so I use Trilux which does not , a bit below the waterline up to the cove line. The trilux needs sanded off each year, the VC does not.

Which is the best antifoul?

There is no "best" antifouling that can be used on all boats. Different types of antifouling are more effective depending on the boat itself and where it is sailing. It's also important to know which previous antifouling was used. More information can be found in our guides "How to find and apply the right antifouling" and "How to properly remove antifouling" . In our online shop you will find the best antifouling paints from the brands Seatec, International, Hempel, Boero, Epifanes, Tikal, Yachticon, Jotun and Yachtcare, which are suitable for a wide range of boat and area requirements. Discover SVB's best antifouling for your underwater hull!

We have compared the 10 best antifoulings from the brands International, Seatec, Hempel, Epifanes and Boero.

How do we compare our antifouling paints?

For the best comparison and test results of our products, various factors are taken into account in the evaluations. This includes the features of the respective product, the many years of experience of our SVB experts as well as our customer comments and reviews.

Our assessment categories

• Comparison winner: The product with the best overall result, regardless of price.
• Price-performance winner: The product that gives the best value for money. Good quality at a reasonable price.
• Best-seller: The top seller that is currently our most popular.
• Green aspect: Biocide-free

Antifoulings in practice

The magazine "Boote" carried out an antifouling test for the 3/2017 issue , in which various antifouling paints were tested in practice.

The test focussed on the difference in fouling protection given by cheaper and branded products. For the test, five antifouling products from Hempel, International, Nautical, Epifanes and Yachtcare were applied to a ship in sections at the beginning of the 2016 season. In order to test the anti-fouling protection, the boat was placed in the port of Hamburg-Tatenburg and sailed to various fresh, salt and brackish water regions during the year. At the end of the season, the vessel was taken out of the water and the amount of fouling compared on the different areas.

The test revealed that all antifouling products did their job well. However, antifouling paints from International and Hempel provided the best protection. . It was easy to wipe off the small amount of fouling that had developed there. Hempel Hard Racing excelled with its very smooth surface. The price differences between the antifouling paints in the test were quite significant. Antifouling test winners at the time were more expensive brand-name products. Nevertheless, the somewhat cheaper products such as those from Yachtcare also performed very well in the test.

In Boote's test, antifouling paints for warm and nutrient-rich waters were also looked at. In these kinds of waters, boaters should choose products that are most effective, in order to protect the underwater hull in the best possible way. Hempel and International antifouling paints were the best at the time of the test.

Biocide-free antifouling in the test

Hiswa , the water industry association in the Netherlands, published a study on the effectiveness of biocide-free antifoulings in 2020. For the study, various antifouling products, such as Silic One by Hempel and simple Melkfett were tested on boats and PVC panels in various waters (salt and fresh water) in the Netherlands. The test products were applied to the surfaces for a year and taken out of the water in between for inspection. This meant that interim test results could be documented. In fresh water, all products performed more or less satisfactorily. Silic One by Hempel proved to be a really good anti-fouling product. In salt water, more extensive fouling was found on the boats and PVC panels. Up to now, biocide-free antifouling paints have been less suitable in harsh fouling conditions in salt water, and biocide-containing products have been the only alternative to protect the hull.

These test results cannot be used for other waters. Further antifouling tests would be necessary here, as different conditions (temperature, salinity, etc.) exist depending on the area. This also applies to special antifouling products. For example, an antifouling propeller test would be necessary to determine the best antifouling for propellers.

Our customers have already tested biocide-free antifoulings, as we can read in the following review by Frank S. of the biocide-free antifouling Silic One: „First of all, hats off to SVB. I called on Monday because I needed a can of Silic One. I needed it to be delivered to Enhuizen (Netherlands), as the boat was due to go in the water on Friday. The DHL delivery arrived on time on Thursday. Great stuff. We're very happy with Silic One. We first used it two years ago. After this time in the water, the hull was like new. We rebuilt some areas (the keel) and painted it with a different colour to the previous one. Red on blue, so that we would be able to see in two years exactly where reworking was needed. I have one suggestion on how to improve. Our boat is on props and before it goes into the water, these areas need painting. One whole can is too much for these areas. A quarter of a can would be more than enough."

In comparing antifouling products and carrying out tests, it is clear to see how difficult it is to determine across the board which antifouling is best. The right one for you and your boat depends on various factors that must be determined individually.

Our comparison and test also show that the best antifouling products are not necessarily the most expensive. Own label products and cheaper antifouling that we sell in our range also provide reliable fouling protection and are in no way inferior to better known brand name antifouling products.

Note: The best antifouling will only be effective if it is applied correctly.

To protect the environment and organisms in the water, it is generally recommended to use biocide-free antifouling products. Until now, these are mainly suitable for use in freshwater areas and, according to tests done by Hiswa, are a good alternative to antifouling containing biocide. You too can do your bit to protect the underwater world!

The costs of antifouling paint: How much does antifouling cost?

Depending on what you plan to do, the costs of your antifouling will be a combination of the amount it will cost to remove old antifouling and apply new paint.

How much does it cost to remove antifouling?

The costs for removing antifouling, like applying, depend on the size of the boat, and whether you intend to use a professional service provider or do the job yourself. It also depends on the method of removal.

If you decide to remove antifouling using stripper, first calculate the size of the area of the antifouling that is to be removed. The amount of stripper required can then be taken from the values given in the respective data sheet. Remember that you may sometimes have to apply stripper several times in order to remove all layers of antifouling present. In most cases, however, it is unlikely that you will be able to remove all traces of antifouling.

In addition to the cost of the stripper itself (if this method is chosen), the costs of removing antifouling will also include the tools that are needed, any equipment that can help, as well as protective equipment, such as clothing or goggles, if you do not already have these.

Note: After removing the old antifouling, new antifouling should be applied. It's a good idea to do a cost breakdown of the new antifouling. You can find plenty of helpful information and advice about choosing and applying antifouling in our guides "How to find and apply the right antifouling for your boat" and "How to properly remove antifouling from your boat" .

Tools & Protective Clothing

How much does it cost to apply antifouling?

The costs for new antifouling depend on various factors: You'll first need to decide whether to let professionals do the job or if you want to do it yourself. In most cases, money can be saved if you do it yourself, but it is not exactly a quick job, so you will also have to invest some time. The other cost influencer is the size of the boat and necessary work steps, i.e., what exactly has to be done and what is needed. Nevertheless, it is possible to roughly calculate the costs of applying new antifouling.

Total costs: Cost calculation of renewing antifouling

The total costs of renewing antifouling consist of the costs of removing the old antifouling paint and of applying the new antifouling paint. In addition to the corresponding amount of antifouling, other cost factors must be included in the calculation:

The various factors show how different an antifouling job can cost, depending on exact requirements. If you only want to treat parts of the antifouling, the costs will, of course, be much lower than if you want to remove all the old antifouling from your boat and apply new antifouling. The antifouling comparison also shows that an effective antifouling does not always have to be the most expensive.

How much antifouling paint do I need?

• Calculate the area of your underwater hull with a formula to work out the correct amount for your surface (see ."Finding & applying antifouling" guide).
• Look at the practical yield (m² per litre) specification of your antifouling product (e.g., for International Cruiser 250 it is 9 m² per/litre)
• Calculate how many litres you need for the total area of your underwater hull.
• Multiply the result by the number of coats you intend to paint (the recommended number of coats is given by the manufacturer and can be found directly on the products).
• You should now know the number of litres needed for your antifouling.
• To calculate the cost of the antifouling paint required, divide the number of litres by the yield of your antifouling paint and multiply this by the price of the antifouling chosen.
• The result is the total cost of the antifouling paint needed.

International has created an antifouling calculator that you can use to work out the number of litres required for your boat. Simply enter details about your boat, which antifouling paint you want and the application method, and it tells you immediately the quantity you need. To open the calculator, click on "How much paint do I need?" at the bottom right of the International website)

Read up on antifouling before you buy so you can find the best antifouling for your boat. Information on removing antifouling and finding & applying the right antifouling can be found in our guides remove antifouling and antifouling . More detailed information on the individual products can be found in the descriptions and data sheets. Protect your boat with antifouling and enjoy your boat trip!

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• Toon Bootverf
• Antifouling
• Bootverf toebehoren

Yachtcare Plus Antifouling toegelaten in Nederland - zwart, 2500ml

Prijzen incl. BTW en excl. verzendkosten

Beschikbaar, levertijd: 2-5 werkdagen

• Beschrijving Yachtcare Plus Antifouling toegelaten in Nederland - zwart, 2,5l/2500mlGebruik biociden zorgvuldig. Lees voor gebruik altijd… Meer
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Yachtcare Plus Antifouling toegelaten in Nederland - zwart, 2,5l/2500ml

Gebruik biociden zorgvuldig. Lees voor gebruik altijd het etiket en de productinformatie.

ANTIFOULING PLUS is een zelfvernieuwende antifouling. Door het zelfvernieuwend effect behoudt de antifouling, gedurende de hele levensduur een bio-actief oppervlakte. Er wordt in alle jaren geen dikke laagdikte opgebouwd. De antifouling is geschikt voor het onderwaterschip van zeil- en motorboten in zoet- en zoutwater. ANTIFOULING PLUS kan worden gebruikt op een ondergrond van polyester, hout en staal. Niet gebruiken op aluminium. Een nieuwe laag antifouling kan direct worden aangebracht op de oude laag antifouling. ANTIFOULING PLUS is met de meeste antifouling systemen te combineren.

• Aanbrengen: kwast, verfroller.
• Verdunning: max. 10% ANTIFOULING THINNER.
• Verbruik: ca. 10 m² / Liter.
• Verwerkingstemperatuur: minimaal +5°C.
• Overschilderbaar na: min. 5 uur/20°C, max. onbegrenst.
• Droogtijd voor te waterlating: min. 24 uur / max. 6 Maanden.

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Inhoud: 5000 Milliliter (€ 26,00* / 1L)

Inhoud: 0.5 Kilogram (€ 59,98* / 1 Kilogram)

Inhoud: 2500 Milliliter (€ 44,00* / 1L)

Inhoud: 2500 Milliliter (€ 28,00* / 1L)

Inhoud: 750 Milliliter (€ 59,99* / 1L)

Inhoud: 2500 Milliliter (€ 54,00* / 1L)

Inhoud: 750 Milliliter (€ 46,65* / 1L)

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YACHTCARE SP Self Polishing Antifouling

Prices incl. VAT plus shipping costs

A self-polishing antifouling with copper bindings and bioactive, organic active ingredients. Intended for use in fresh, salt and brackish water. Through the self-renewing effect the paint retains a bioactive surface throughout its entire life. YACHTCARE self polishing antifouling is compatible with most other antifouling systems. It is applicable on wood, GRP and steel. Not applicable for aluminum bases. Thinner: YACHTCARE ANTIFOULING THINNER Requirement: 12.5 m.sq./l Use biocide products safely. Always read the label and product information before use. BAuA-Nr. N-74363

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• PDF: Technisches Datenblatt DE
• PDF: Yachtcare Handbuch Antifouling DE
• Artikel im TOPLICHT-Katalog auf Seite 269 ansehen
• View article in TOPLICHT catalog on page 269
• Ratgeber Antifouling
• Antifouling Guide

Pro - antifouling paint - black - 750ml - Yachtcare

Part № 134916

vat included

Antifouling colour :

Size (L / ml / g / gal /oz) :

Description

The pro antifouling paint Yachtcare black matrix is ​​a hard antifouling formulated with vinyl resins, copper compounds and bioactive organic elements. This allows to obtain a smooth and thin film low friction. It is compatible with most antifouling hard matrix commonly used and is used primarily on polyester supports, wood and steel. It should however not be applied on aluminum or alloy. Features: Pro - antifouling for boats of fishing and pleasure lasts Matrix Suitable for all waters, as antifouling for polyester boats, wood and steel Should not be used on aluminum or other light metals supports.

Specifications

Ean/Barcode

Detailed Specifications

Colours: black Capacity: 750 ml Coverage: 8-10 m² / l for 40 micron dry layer thickness of minimum 2 layers

Size (L / ml / g / gal /oz)

Application

Apply with a brush or roller. For maximum result antivégétatif power, launching after at least 8 hours without drying exceed 5 days. Degrease, sand and wash with fresh water the surface to be painted. Then dry perfectly. Apply the paint in 2 layers respecting each layer between a drying time of 12 to 16 hours. Clean tools with acetone. Product to keep in closed container at 20 ° C. Use Yachtcare products safely. Before use, read the label and product information.

Application Advantages: Excellent power antivégétatif long working time Good adhesion all media, except aluminum, alloys and other light metals Sec to affect between 1 and 2 hours free tin

Pro-antifouling for boats of fishing and pleasure lasts Matrix Suitable for all waters, as antifouling for polyester boats, wood and steel Should not be used on aluminum or other light metals supports Colour: black Capacity: 750 ml Coverage: 8-10 m² / l for 40 micron dry layer thickness of minimum 2 layers Application

Antifouling colour

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• Antifouling Holland

Yachtcare Antifouling Plus Approval Netherlands

incl. VAT plus shipping costs

• Description ANTIFOULING PLUS is a self-polishing anti-fouling coating for underwater use. Thanks to the self-renewing effect, the coatin… More
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• Klartext zu den oben genannten H, P und EUH Sätzen gem. CLP Verordnung
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• Antifouling A Plus

Teamac Antifouling A Plus

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Description for Teamac Antifouling A Plus

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Technical data for teamac antifouling a plus, application type, 1 part or 2 part, material form.

• Aluminum - Aluminium
• Plastic - GRP
• Composites - GRP
• Marine - Suitable for aluminium hulls, Good antifouling performance, Underwater areas of marine vessels, Suitable for domestic vessels, Suitable for commercial vessels
• Other - High level of copper thiocyanate

Application Method

• Roll - Roller

Cure Method

• Room Temperature / Air Dry - Room temperature cure

Specifications

Other Properties

Surface Preparation

On aluminium, ideally abrade the surface to provide a "key", clean, then immediately coat with Metaclor Primer. When dry apply 2nd coat. If abrasion is not possible, the surface must be degreased and treated with 'T' Wash/Mordant solution (leave to react for 2 hours), follow the instructions on the pack. When this is clean and dry apply the 2 coats of Metaclor Primer, then 2 coats of Antifouling A Plus. Bare Surfaces: On exposed metal and wood, prime first with at least 2 coats of Teamac Metaclor Underwater Primer (but not more than 3). On GRP lightly abrade exposed surfaces and apply 2 coats of Teamac Metaclor Underwater Primer. New steel: Abrasive blast clean to Sa2½ and apply TEAMAC METACLOR UNDERWATER PRIMER. If applying onto shop-primed steel ensure that surface is dry and clean, and areas of damaged primer are suitably cleaned prior to the application of the METACLOR. Maintenance: Remove all loose and damaged existing coating and all marine growth. High pressure wash with fresh water. Areas of breakdown should be blasted or power tool cleaned. Touch up with METACLOR PRIMER to the full existing film thickness. Prior to the application of the full coat ensure that surface is clean and free of all contaminates.

Application

MIXING INSTRUCTIONS: Mix well prior to use.

Comparable Materials for Teamac Antifouling A Plus

Spec engine ® results.

A modified composition containing a high level of cuprous oxide to give good antifouling performance. It is used as an antifouling for the underwater areas of marine vessels or underwater structures.

It contains cuprous oxide to give good antifouling performance. It is used as an antifouling for the underwater areas of vessels or underwater structures.

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Use biocides safely. Always read the label and product information before use.

Very toxic to aquatic life with long lasting effects.

Very toxic to aquatic life.

Yachtcare Action AF 2.5L Hard Antifouling for Boats

Purchase options and add-ons

• Highly effective hard antifouling as a fouling protection for underwater areas
• Colour: off-white – white grey
• Especially recommended for motor boats, trailer boats and dry marinas
• Can be used on all boat materials except aluminium
• Yield: approx. 10 m²/tin

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Product information Technical details. Color ‎Off-white - white grey Size ‎2,5L Style ‎Yachtcare Action hard antifouling Material Type ‎Acrylic Seasons ‎Year-round Sport ‎boating Included Components ‎YC anti-fouling action Batteries Included? ‎No Brand ‎Yachtcare Department ‎Unisex Manufacturer ‎YACH7|#Yachtcare Item model number ‎154.725 Package Dimensions ‎17.2 x 17.1 x 16.6 cm; 3.7 kg ASIN ‎B078Q3QHP3 Additional Information Date First Available 2 Jan 2018 Customer Reviews 4.6 out of 5 stars Best Sellers Rank 26,923 in Sports & Outdoors ( ) 24 in Warranty & Support Amazon.de Return Policy:Regardless of your statutory right of withdrawal, you enjoy a 30-day right of return for many products. For exceptions and conditions, see . Fields with an asterisk * are required : : : : : Please select province : : to provide feedback. \n' + ' ' ); } function getThankYouDiv(thankMsg) { return ( ' \n' + ' ' ); } function getLoadingGifDiv() { return ' What's in the box? YC anti-fouling action From the manufacturer Anti-fouling action - reliable, powerful hard anti-fouling Antifouling Action is an effective hard anti-fouling with insoluble binder. The underwater protection is suitable for sailing and motorboats in all Northern European waters with medium growth. Due to the hard, durable surface, it is particularly recommended for fast motorboats, trailer boats or dry marinas. Yachtcare action is available in two different container sizes. Choose between 0.75 L and 2.5 L. For the right look of your underwater boat, we offer you 4 different shades: - Off white - blue - black - red Action anti-fouling can be used on all surfaces except aluminium. Anti-fouling SP - reliable, powerful anti-fouling Yachtcare Antifouling SP is a tin-free, self-polishing anti-fouling. When applying, the surface must be clean, dry and free of grease. When reassembled, first according to Primer specification and apply 2-3 coats of Yachtcare SP. 1-2 renewal coats per season. To water after min. 6 hours. (20°C) and max. 6 months. (For longer landing times, the anti-fouling should be lightly sanded or cleaned). Areas of use: Sweet, salt and brackish water. Yachtcare Antifouling SP is available in two different container sizes. Customer Reviews Price €50.38€50.38 €36.11€36.11 €25.00€25.00 €34.37€34.37 €37.87€37.87 Type: Primer / primer Primer / primer Primer / primer Anti-fouling (self-polishing) Anti-fouling Container sizes 0.75 L / 2.25 L 0.75 L / 2.25 L 0.75 L 0.75 L / 2.5 L 0.75 L / 2.5 L Consumption: Approx. 7 m² / litre Approx. 8 m² per coat Approx. 10 m² / litre Approx. 13 m² / litre Approx. 13 m² / litre Colours Grey White Grey Off white, blue, black, red Off white, blue, black, red Looking for specific info? Customer reviews. Our goal is to make sure that every review is trustworthy and useful. That's why we use both technology and human investigators to block fake reviews before customers ever see them.  Learn more We block Amazon accounts that violate our Community guidelines. We also block sellers who buy reviews and take legal actions against parties who provide these reviews.  Learn how to report Reviews with images Sort reviews by Top reviews Most recent Top reviews Top reviews from Germany There was a problem filtering reviews right now. please try again later.. Product Safety Product compliance details. See compliance details for this product ( EU Responsible Person ). Press Releases Amazon Science Sell on Amazon Sell on Amazon Business Sell on Amazon Handmade Associates Programme Fulfilment by Amazon Protect and build your brand Seller Fulfilled Prime Advertise Your Products Independently Publish with Us Host an Amazon Hub › See More Make Money with Us Shop with points Instalments by Barclays Amazon Business Amex Card Monthly Invoice SEPA Direct Debit Amazon Currency Converter Top Up Your Account Top Up Your Account in Store COVID-19 and Amazon Track Packages or View Orders Delivery Rates & Policies Amazon Prime Returns & Replacements Cancel contracts Cancel Vodafone contracts Manage Your Content and Devices Recalls and Product Safety Alerts Amazon Mobile App Customer Service Accessibility Conditions of Use & Sale Privacy Notice Cookies Notice Interest-Based Ads Notice NCM Moscow Plus Review   Home   Reviews   Brands   NCM Reviews   NCM Moscow Plus Review NCM Reviews Class 3 Electric Bike Reviews Electric Mountain Bike Reviews Hardtail Electric Mountain Bike Reviews Hub Motor Electric Bike Reviews A cross country style hard-tail e-mountain bike with 80mm suspension fork, knobby trail tires, and sturdy alloy pedals, includes a trigger throttle up to 20 MPH Lots of adjustability with the display panel, including speed, the 12-magnet cadence sensor is very responsive, motor inhibitors in both of the levers, large 180mm hydraulic disc rotors in front and rear Upgraded suspension fork, hydraulic brakes vs mechanical, better saddle, derailleur, cassette range, battery, and display from the regular Moscow version The kickstand works decently well but can block the left crank arm when down, 2amp charing is slow for the high capacity battery, some wires stand out vs. being completely internal, not much room to add things on the handlebar Video Review Introduction Body position:, suggested use:, electric bike class:, learn more about ebike classes, availability:, model year:, bicycle details, total weight:, battery weight:, motor weight:, frame material:, frame sizes:, geometry measurements:, frame types:, frame colors:, frame fork details:, frame rear details:, attachment points:, gearing details:, shifter details:, brake details:, seat post length:, seat post diameter:, tire brand:, wheel sizes:, tire details:, tube details:, accessories:, electronic details, motor brand:, motor type:, learn more about ebike motors, motor nominal output:, motor torque:, battery brand:, battery voltage:, battery amp hours:, battery watt hours:, battery chemistry:, charge time:, estimated min range:, estimated max range:, display type:, display accessories:, drive mode:, written review. To run the forums, host the website, and travel, I charge a universal service fee for my reviews. This review was sponsored by NCM. My goal is to be transparent and unbiased, this video and written review are not meant to be an endorsement of NCM products. NCM is a new company to me, but they are using reliable and proven systems in their ebikes, so in someway, there is a nice familiarity to it. Today we are checking out their Moscow Plus, the big brother to the Moscow. The Moscow Plus features a nicer suspension fork, hydraulic brakes, more comfortable saddle, and an upgraded derailleur with more gear ranges. There is also a better battery coupled with a nicer display. Because they share the same frame however, you will find a lot of parallel information in this review if you read the write up on the regular Moscow. So the Moscow Plus here is an aluminum alloy frame hard-tail ebike that comes in 2 sizes. Each size also has tire options as well, so basically there is a 19” frame and a 20.5” frame and you can choose either 27.5” tires, or 29” tires. Today we have the 19” frame with the 27.5” Schwalbe Smart Sam knobby tires. Overall the bike weighs about 56.1lbs, (about 1.4lbs lighter than the regular Moscow) and costs $1,899 USD and $2,399 in CAD. As I mentioned before, it is a bit of a hard-tail setup, so you do get this nice SR SunTour XCM30 spring suspension fork. It has 80mm of travel, larger 30mm stanchions, and includes compression adjust, lockout, and preload adjust. Pretty standard hub spacing in the front, 100mm, and there is a 9mm quick release skewer in the front, but none in the back since this is a hub-drive. I am told that it has a maximum weight capacity of 275.5lbs, which is higher than standard. This might come in handy since the bike does have bottle cage bosses, rack bosses, and even fender provisions, so you could really load it up with accessories and it should handle it very well. I like that there is an adjustable length kickstand included, but it is center mounted. That means that you could have the pedals strike the kickstand when down and reversing, an annoying occurrence sometimes referred to as ‘pedal-lock’. The seat post here is a rigid post, which is normal, but since it is 30.9mm, you could swap that out with a nice suspension seat post to get some more cushion on top of that front suspension fork. Other features include ergonomic Velo grips, Wellgo aluminum alloy platform pedals, and one of my favorites, a slap guard that will protect the bike frame and paint from getting nicked by the chain and scratching the paint. Driving the Moscow Plus is a 500 watt nominally rated planetary geared hub motor. I love that it is fairly compact given the high power output. Power wise, it can deliver up to 80nm of torque, which is quite high, but it cannot leverage gears the way that a mid-drive could. The upside is that the motor always feels zippy, it doesn’t matter which of the gear combinations you are pedaling with. And, the motor can deliver instant power with the minimalist throttle. Hub motors are a great fit for hardtail mount bikes because there is no rear suspension to interfere with. As you shift gears, there won’t be increased mashing or forces applied to the drivetrain because the motor operates completely independently of the chain and sprockets. Moving the bike is done here with either the throttle or the cadence based pedal assist. Of course, this motor will use more power if you’re constantly starting with the throttle, but that’s a worthwhile trade for someone like myself, who has a knee injury. I love being able to override assist with the throttle at any time. I also love that the throttle is easily disabled by removing a cable in case you need to make the bike legal for other trails or local laws. Mechanically, you have 3 rings in the front (48,28, and 28), but sadly, there is no chain cover to protect your clothing. In the rear you have an upgraded 11-32 tooth setup, so a bit better range than the standard Moscow. All in all, it is a Shimano Acera system, and you also get 8 speeds, trigger shifters, and a couple of display windows that tells you what gear you are in. There is a derailleur guard here too, something I love since it protects the derailleur during shipping, or if the bike takes a spill some day. Stopping the Moscow Plus is a set of hydraulic brakes. This was one of my grips on the regular Moscow, so I am happy to see they are offered here in a set of 180mm rotors for both the front and rear. Another upgrade here on the Plus is motor inhibitors in both brake lines. The regular Moscow only had it on one lever so I am glad it is here as it helps cut power to the motor when stopping. Powering the NCM Moscow Plus is a high capacity Lithium-ion battery pack, offering 48v 16ah hours of capacity! I would say that’s a nice upgrade from the 48v 13ah of the regular Moscow…that means you can go further or ride at higher speeds. I love that they use a sealed external controller, this allows a lower cost for replacement batteries, and keeps the controller protected from harsh elements. Where as some companies are $800-$1000 range for a new battery, this keeps the NCM battery cost to around $500. Note that whenever you’re operating around or above 20 mph, air resistance is going to cause exponential energy draw and range will be decreased. This pack delivers electricity to the motor, but also the backlit display panel (hold the + icon to turn on backlighting), and even a full sized USB charging port on the top right side. You could use this port to maintain phones, GPS, or music devices as you ride or when parked at home or a camp site. My friends recently took a bikepacking trip using another electric bike, and this sort of charging-on-the-go feature would be really handy. If you’re excited to charge while riding, I recommend using a right-angle USB adapter like this , just to keep the wires tucked in and out of the way while you pedal. The battery pack weighs more than average at 9.2lbs, but the alloy casing is sturdy and most of the weight is kept low and center on the bike frame. I took the pack off when moving the bike to our review location, to reduce load on my car rack. If you live up stairs, removing the battery is a great idea, and for those who need to leave the bike in a cold, hot, or wet locations… being able to protect and charge the battery inside is a great thing. It’s best to maintain the pack above 20% and avoid extreme temperatures. It’s going to take a bit longer to fill this battery because of the higher capacity, and the charger is more basic, offering 2amp output vs. 3amp or 4amp. So expect 6 to 7 hours for a fill recharge if you go all the way down to zero. One quick warning about charging the battery while mounted to the bike, be careful with the left crank arm because it passes directly in front of the plug port on the left and could bend or snag the charging plug and cable. The display on the Moscow Plus is upgraded, nice and large and easy to read. To begin, just hold the power button on the little control pad near the left grip. It activates the display and you get several readouts including assist level, current speed, and battery capacity. Pressing power one time will activate backlighting on the LCD display and holding the down arrow constantly will activate walk mode (which can be handy if you need to to ascend a ramp, make your way through a walk-only space, or even climb stairs). The display can show different menus if you press the set button, a nice feature to dive in a little more. I like the size and position of the display, you can even angle it forward and back to reduce reflection glare, but it is not removable. For those who plan on commuting, it might be worth strapping your helmet over the display to keep people from noticing or scratching it, and also protecting it from the sun, while parked at racks. Overall, I would still call this display panel and accompanying button pad above average, I love that it can be angled to reduce glare and feel that it looks beautiful and is well sealed against water… but to clean the bike it is recommended to use a damp cloth vs. spraying it. Don’t ever submerge the bike components or spray them hard. Also, consider storing the battery pack away from extreme heat and cold to protect the cells. The only other thing I would mention is that the display is large and center mounted, taking up a lot of valuable surface area on an already crowded handlebar, so it may be difficult to add accessories. In conclusion, the Moscow Plus was a lot of fun, and as mentioned earlier, is using a lot of nice proven technology that has kept many happy. This is a value priced ebike, so there will be some tradeoffs to consider, so I should make mention of those now… For one, the kickstand is center mounted, so if the kickstand is down and you are reversing the bike, you will encounter pedal lock. I noticed that there is no chain ring cover or guard, so be careful when pedaling with clothing like pants or a dress. The charger is just 2amps, this means charging happens slowly, so matched with that high capacity battery, it could take quite some time. Tradeoffs aside, it is a very well put together bike with a lot of what we have come to know and love about ebikes, and at a price of just $1,899 in the US, will appeal to many customers. I want to thank NCM for the chance to check out the Moscow, and I look forward to reviewing more bikes from this new company. As always, I welcome questions and feedback in the comment section below. Whether you own a previous version of the bike, have taken a test ride, or are brand new to the space, my goal is to provide an objective and honest resource. You can also join the Other Brands ebike forums and share your own photos, videos, and review updates to help others! Have fun out there, and ride safe :) The Moscow blends off-road geometry, suspension, and tires with urban utility because you can add fenders and a rear rack, there are also bottle cage bosses on the top as well There are 24 gear combinations to explore here, and that empowers you to climb easier or hit and maintain the top assisted speed, I really appreciate the slap guard on the right chain stay and the steel derailleur guard at the rear which also protects the motor power cable (especially when the bike is being shipped) The 500 watt Das-Kit motor is powerful and zippy but completely independent from the the pedal drivetrain, it’s a good choice for a bike with so many gears vs. a mid-motor, it also allows for instant throttle power regardless of which gear you’re in One of the advantages of having a front derailleur is that it keeps the chain from bouncing off track, it does usually add more weight and maintenance to the bike however, and if you’re using either of the two smaller chainrings the larger 48 tooth one can snag your pant leg because there is no bash guard plate Good weight distribution, the battery is positioned low and center on the frame, it seems well protected and blends in pretty well with the black accents on the fork, handlebar, seat, and chainrings Great tires for cross country and street riding, the 27.5″ x 2.25″ size is lightweight and efficient, they steer quickly and Schwalbe products tend to be higher quality, there is also a 29” option as well At $1,899 USD and $2,399 in CAD, it is competitively priced and will serve many customers well since it has a throttle, high capacity battery, and suspension I’m glad that they chose a trigger throttle vs. twist because it makes the grips more secure and reduces accidental activation, the 12-magnet cadence sensor is also more responsive than 8 or 5 on many other products The suspension fork offers compression lockout and preload adjust, this allows it to firm up for smooth riding conditions like city streets, reducing bob and energy loss as you pedal You get a flick bell, locking ergonomic grips, and a pair of large sturdy platform pedals that should work well in all sorts of conditions and weather, sometimes these parts are cheaper on value priced ebikes I love the high capacity 14v 16ah battery, it even has a USB port on the side to take advantage of it and use it as a power bank, perfect for traveling Between the knobby tires and 80mm suspension fork, this bike feels pretty comfortable, but I might recommend a suspension seat post to make things even more cushy for your ride The 180mm rotor hydraulic disc brakes are a great upgrade here, they are complimented well by a nicer derailleur, better gearing range, and more gearing options here on the Plus vs the regular Moscow The Plus is actually lighter by 1.4lbs despite its larger battery, better fork, upgraded gel saddle, and nicer display Minor gripe here, but I actually prefer the integrated finger bell on the regular Moscow as opposed to this more generic bell on the Moscow Plus, this was likely chosen to save space on the handle bar since it is using a larger display Some of the wires on this ebike are a bit more exposed along the base of the top tube, it looks a bit cleaner and reduces snags when they are completely internal This e-bike weighs more than your average trail bike at 56.1lbs because it has a higher capacity battery and a more basic spring suspension fork vs. air, I’d definitely take the battery off when lifting and transporting it No chain cover or guard means you need to be careful with your pants or dress, you don’t want it getting snagged and torn up in the chain ring system Even though this is technically a mountain bike, it’s nice to see a kickstand for those urban rides, I do wish that the stand was positioned a bit further back however, to avoid pedal lock with the left crank arm Another minor grips, but more and more people are commuting with hard tail mountain bikes, I like that this has provisions to add commuting options and already comes with a kickstand, but it should be noted it does not come with any lights in the front or rear With a standard 2amp battery charger, it could take a while to completely fill the high-capacity battery (6 or 7 hours), there are other ebikes with 3 or even 4amp chargers but they tend to weigh more The display panel isn’t removable and doesn’t swivel easily, as a result, it could get scratched more easily at racks and will take sun and rain wear over time Official Site: https://ncmbikes.de/ Review Updated On More ncm reviews. NCM Aspen Review MSRP: $1,699 MODEL YEAR: 2019 Fat Electric Bike Reviews A minimalist yet capable value priced hard-tail fat-tire ebike with a proficient drive train both electrically and mechanically, lower price point allows for more financial freedom to customize and add things to the bike. Pretty lightweight at under 60lbs total, has a responsive and aggressive ride feel, comes with…... MSRP: $1,499 Affordable Electric Bike Reviews A cross country style hard-tail e-mountain bike with 80mm suspension fork, knobby trail tires, and sturdy alloy pedals, includes a trigger throttle up to 20mph. Lots of adjustability with the display panel, including speed, the 12-magnet cadence sensor is very…... Comments (49) YouTube Comments First off, let me say that I really enjoy your thorough reviews. The Moscow Plus is the third e-bike in our family, along with a Specialized Turbo Como 4.0 and Aventon Pace 500 . I purchased this from Amego; great value when purchasing from the US due to no tax and free shipping! I am able to use the code to get to the settings, but cannot figure out how to adjust the top speed from 20 mph to 25. All that I can access is wheel size and battery voltage. Can you assist please? Hi Mark, I called Amego EV today asking for tips on how to update the speed. It sounds like you can only adjust the speed with the larger center-mount plus display. In that case, you’d hold the + and – key to get into settings and use the code 8018 which would allow you to adjust the speed. Perhaps someone in the ebike forums will be able to help further but this is what I go. Sounds like you’ve got a fun fleet of ebikes there and I hope you do find a solution :) This might be a bit late, however you adjust the wheel size down and the bike will then up the speed based on that. I.E. adjust a 27.5inch down to 20.00inch and you add 30% speed as the computer reads a smaller tyre… make sense? The only down side is this throws off the odometre reading so you’ll need to factor in the 30% for closer accuracy. hey Mark, how is the Moscow plus treating you thus far ? Is it a better purchase compared to the Aventon 500? John - Sydney, Aus Just bought one of these awesome machines! I haven’t been able to take it on a serious ride yet, but on a quick test ride one thing that surprised me was how easy it was to foul the front wheel with toes when turning – is that a regular thing? Hey John! Yeah, I’ve experienced “toe strikes” when riding bikes like this, especially with larger shoes. They’ve gone with the “one size fits all” here but are using fairly large 27.5″ wheels with trail tires, so the clearance between the pedals and the front tire isn’t as much as it might be on a larger frame. This being a cross country frame style, with less rake on the fork, the wheel is fairly close to the frame and it can lead to the situation you’re describing. Yes, it is a regular thing with certain frame sizes and wheel/tire combinations. You might be able to reduce it by pedaling with the pad of your foot vs. the middle or heel. John Liversage Hi again, I’ve been riding the bike a couple of months now and enjoying great battery life and plenty of power (and thankfully the toe strike thing is no real problem). However, there’s is a significant defect in the power system – if you are stationery and adjust the pedals by turning them back even a small amount, occasionally (say 1 in 10 times) the power comes on, possibly at full power. As you can imagine, that’s extremely dangerous – it has once shot my bike onto the road while waiting at lights to cross a busy road, and once into the side of my car while parking the bike in my garage. I’ve reported the issue to the bike shop I bought the bike from (Leon Cycles here in Melbourne, Australia), and although initially they were responsive (even confirming it is a known fault), they have stopped responding, despite my best efforts. I did send a video I’d taken that graphically shows the issue. Even apart from that fault, the power is also very slow to come on when going from downhill (above the speed where power is provided – here in Australia that’s 25KPH) to a steep uphill, taking upwards of 5 seconds to respond (I tested a different e-bike and response was almost instantaneous). On your review ride it was largely flat, so I’m thinking you would not have picked that up. Is that a common issue with other ebikes? Any suggestions? A few rectifications: The bike uses a 8 speed 11-32 freewheel, not a cassette. It’s hard (if impossible) to find in the north american market. Here’s a link I found on aliexpress for spare parts: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33056759327.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.3e774c4df5Shfp The display will let you go from pedal assist 6 up to 0, but not from 0 down to 6, if that makes sense. Doesn’t go around in both directions, maybe that’s something they changed. (I bought 2 moscow pluses and they’re both this way.) You can’t change the maximum speed, but what you can do is input a smaller wheel diameter. They speedometer won’t show the correct speed anymore, and the bike will assist you up to 32km/h + about 30%. THIS WON’T MAKE IT A SPEED PEDELEC unless you pedal EXTRA HARD on the top gear ratio (48×11). I find myself going barely over 32 on flat ground, maybe up to 35-36 helping with my legs. Hope this will be helpful. This bike is amazing btw, and if you’re commuting, going faster than that would absolutely drain your battery anyway. For exemple, a bike going 50km/h will need to draw 1500W of power and you run continuously for only 40 minutes with a 1000Wh battery. This has been my experience with the Rize Rx, which I decided to resell because of that. Hi Mat, thanks for the updates! Great point about the freewheel. I didn’t think there were any 11 tooth freewheels and only recently learned more about the distinction between a cassette and freewheel. I really appreciate you sourcing that part! Your second point about not being able to “around” makes sense. Perhaps they did change something from 2018/2019 when I covered the bike. The wheel size hack is something I’ve heard about before, so thanks for explaining that more thoroughly and posting your results for top achievable speed. I’m hoping to cover more RIZE ebikes in the future, so glad to get your insight about why you switched to NCM here. Great comment! Thanks again :) Mathis Bourcier-Laurin Concerning the link I put in my comment, these appear to be cassettes after all… I might have got this wrong. I’m sending an email to NCM to know more. There doesn’t seam to be any 11-32 freewheels accessible on the market. Hi! Nice review! I am considering the NCM Moscow Plus or Eahora AM100. Can you please make review Eahora AM100 or/and compere Moscow Plus with Eahora AM100! Will be very appreciate any suggestions. Thanks! Hi Steve! I’m more familiar with NCM, but I will keep an eye out for the Eahora products and possibly do another review this year. That said, it could be many weeks or months from now. I recommend asking for feedback in the EBR forums in the NCM section here . I hope this helps you compare the two… and the list of specs here on the Moscow Plus review, you can compare them with the specs for the Eahora AM100 based on their website :) Hi, in your video review the topic came up about using the NCM Moscow in snow conditions with regards to how it would hold up in salted roads and in wet conditions. How do these bikes do in rain and puddles? I can see where you might want to avoid those but sometimes you get caught out on a ride where you have to ride through some conditions like that. Hi John, my experience riding in rain has been that most ebike products, even the cheaper ones, are highly water resistant… they should hold up alright in rain, just don’t submerge. One time, I had ridden in a heavy rainstorm in Austin, TX (big heavy drops) and then parked my bike outside in the sun. The LCD fogged up inside because the water somehow got inside due to humidity or splashes or something. That fog stayed for a long time and was annoying. I’ve considered wrapping displays with plastic during extra rainy days. I also never flip an ebike upside-down to wash them (with a hose gently) because the cables and holes and electronics are all designed to drain downwards and if you flip them, water can pile up inside instead of draining. I learned that washing with a hose, some car soap, a rag and chamois is alright, even using car wax on bicycle paint seems to work well and protect any steel parts from rusting as quickly. I usually go for synthetic spray wax that works on metal and plastic, and I just coat everything. Final tip, I also use biodegradable spray cleaner for bicycles more often than car cleaner products before the wax, and I regularly lube my chain but dry it off after vs. leaving it greasy. This reduces the chance of dust and debris sticking to the chain and wearing down your sprockets. Sorry that these tips aren’t formatted perfectly, I’m in a hurry ;) Thank you for your reply in answer to my questions. That helps me a lot. Question for you on the Moscow plus mountain bike. The specs for that bike from Lyon cycle says it has 55 NM and I was reading your review and in it you say it has a NM. Can you tell me the difference between the measurements? Hi Kipper, I hope I’m understanding your question correctly. It sounds like you want to know what NM stands for? This is an abbreviation for Newton Meters of torque. It’s a measure of how strong a motor can be, how much force it can create (which is good for starting and climbing). I hope this helps! Many of the stats that I provide here for motor power (watts and newton meters) are provided by companies. There are different ways to measure these things and I suspect that some companies are exaggerating the power of their products. That’s why I try to leave comments open and also show how the bike rides on camera, so people can make their own judgements :) What I think Kipper was saying is that you list the torque at 80nm… All other specs I’ve seen list it at 55nm Had the bike for about 6 weeks now and have 600k on the odometer. Overall a solid bike with great range and speed. Have encountered the following problems. The battery gets loose after a while and starts to knock. This can be remedied with some strips of duct tape to act as spacers. I broke a spoke on the rear wheel. When I tried my local bike shop, they said it was an unusual size and ended up having to order one online from Germany. The screws holding the rear brake disc fell out. The seller has promised to send me a new set at no-charge but it’s odd that they all fell out without much warning. No big issues so far, and I am still pleased with the purchase. Hey, thanks for chiming in with these notes about the Moscow Plus. I’m glad that overall, you’re still happy with it. It’s also reassuring to hear that NCM has provided some support and your local bike shop went to such great lengths to help you get a new spoke! Good on them, and thank you for taking the time to share :) Hi there, I really enjoyed your review. I have a NCM Moscow 27.5″ Plus here in the UK. Leon cycles tell me they no longer provide thumb throttles for the Eurorean market so I guess my questions are can you tell me the details of the throttle so I can source one which is compatible and will I be able to fit it on to my model? Does the cable from the throttle go into the back of the display (there are no spare holes) or does it go directly into the control box somehow. Hope these questions aren’t too technical and that you can help in a small way. I suppose the alternative would be to buy a bike from North America, but suppliers there seem reluctant to ship to the UK – unless you know of one who does!!?? :) Thanks for your time. John H. Hi John! Unfortunately, I do not know where to source the part, and am not 100% sure that I’d know the latest display/throttle interface. Perhaps you could post the same question in the NCM Ebike Forums to see if any recent buyers could help. This throttle is fairly unique and highly sought after by some other companies I’ve spoken with, because it’s narrow – allowing the shifter and brakes to not get pushed too far in towards the stem. I think some other companies use it too, like Magnum on their Mi6 model . I hope this helps point you in the right direction! Hi, sorry, but I didn’t catch your name in the video review, but found it to be one of the best reviews information wise. How tall are you so I can gauge how the 29 will fit? You appeared to be in a comfortable upright position. Did you have enough straddle room at a stop? What’s your inseam if you don’t mind saying? I prefer a larger bike so I don’t have to lean over so much. I’m 5’9″ and currently ride a large Trek Verve+ with 29 inch wheels which works well. Thanks, Gary Hi Gary! Sorry for the delayed reply here. I’m 5’9″ as well, and my inseam is about 32 inches. The bike felt good to me and I did have room to straddle the top tube when stopping. I tend to raise the seat way up to get full leg extension, and this bike had enough space for me to achieve that and have comfortable reach. We are lucky because many bikes fit people 5’5″ to 6’1″ or so and we’re right in the middle there :D Hi, I just got my Moscow Plus 29″. I’m 6’2″ 245lbs with 32″ inseam and when I stand straight I’m just touching the cross bar, which I find uncomfortable, and zero chance over ever installing water bottle. I wish I had read more reviews before purchasing, as on site said that the 29″ good for 5’9″ to 6’4″ and 27.5 was 5’5″ to 6’1″. I have read now found a few reviews that say the 29″ is too big even for someone my height I would suggest that 33″ inseam or less go for the 27.5″ Thanks Saiveer Aushatty Hello I recently brought the Moscow plus e-bike but I am not satisfied with the battery because it is getting discharged quickly and when I take the bike from store the bms was 53. Something when it is fully charged. but now when I am charging in the home it is showing 51. Something and also charging of the battery is also discharging quickly can I know what is the reason?? Hi Saiveer, perhaps it is colder weather? That could explain why the battery isn’t getting the same range but might not explain the voltage drop. Over time, it is my understanding that any lithium-ion battery will begin to lose capacity (especially if the battery is heating up a lot). Maybe NCM is using cheaper cells or your pack was older? I cannot say for sure, but maybe you could buy a replacement battery someday if it continues to drop in capacity. Hi, I love the review and currently considering a NCM. Can you comment on the difference between a Moscow and Moscow Plus? Why would you consider the upgrade? Hi Leanne! It has been too long since performing this particular review to know what the current differences are. Usually, it has to do with upgraded brakes, maybe a nicer derailleur, or a higher capacity battery pack. Perhaps you could ask for some input on the NCM ebike forums to see if anyone there has some insights :) Hi! I’m considering the Moscow Plus. I watched the review, it was awesome! Thanks. It made me want to by it right away, but over in Montreal is not really good timing with the snow, especially if ebikes don’t like salt (quoting yours truly :) )You mentioned the 29 inch is more comfortable than the 27; according to my height 5,6’’ I should get the 27″. Do you think I should get the 29 and I will be able to adjust it to my body dimensions? Also, how fast does the battery recharge? Thank you! Céline Hi Céline! Yeah, this is a good ebike. It’s made to be affordable, but still pretty capable, and it’s nice that they offer two wheel sizes. Yes, I agree that the 27″ wheel is a better fit for you at 5’6″ tall. The larger 29″ wheel diameter helps to smooth out bumps, but raises the frame, adds weight, and just isn’t a great fit unless you’re a taller person. I believe that the 27″ will still be very comfortable for you. As for charging, I’d estimate that a full charge could take 5.5 hours. Note that the first half fill goes much faster than the second half, because the charger slows down in order to help the battery balance (which is easier on the cells, helping them to last longer and be in good condition). I hope this helps!! Thank you for your reply it helps me and reaffirms my choice for this ebike! Can’t wait to order and try it out! I just got a Moscow and its terrible in so many aspects! The controller is awful and the wires running all over the frame is a pain! you cannot easily carry the damn thing and finding a rear rack for it is another nightmare! The common racks that attach to seat post and rear part of the frame wouldn’t work and the compatible ones are unavailable and quite pricy! the bike come with absolute no adjustment and the L and H on the derailleur was so off that you couldn’t shift it to Gear 1 or 7 and the rest was entirely unindexed! The whole things is a mess and Leon Cycle did not even post my review! This is why they have so few reviews for each product! Hi Hamed, that really sucks. This is why I created EBR and the associated forums, to let people speak more freely (as long as they are constructive and honest). It sounds like you’re frustrated with the bike and it came damaged or just way out of tune. I’m sorry man, yes, the wires on this ebike are also more exposed vs. internally routed. I hope you got a good deal on it, I think with so many brands being sold out recently, people are left with fewer options and the direct online bikes can be risky and get damaged in shipping. NCM has been around longer, and I feel like the founder is a hard working person (who supplied Magnum and Amego) but I haven’t been in touch or reviewed their products for a while now. Hope you can get it running right and enjoy some rides this summer… or sell it and get another ebike. Hi Court, I really appreciate both the website and youtube videos! They are really helpful! I fixed almost everything but it took me > 3 hours and was a total pain! I got it for < 1500 CAD so it wasn't horrible but anyway I wish I would have been waitng till June/July to get either a Radpower or Rize which both are looking pretty good but are in the back order! Deciding to bike again after twenty something years you'de assume how unfamiliar everything looks like and that is why I want other folks like me know what to expect! Cheers dennis morgan I purchased a Moscow Plus one month ago and it has not run with any assistance at consistantlly motor keeps cutting and no speedo reading have checked all connections and they are tight we have at least 8 ebikes in our group now . and many different brands this only one doing this. other experienced riders have ridden my bike and the same thing has happened to them no speedo reading no power motor turn on handle bar switch it runs with assistance for about 30 seconds and cuts out again i am now wishing i did not purchase this bike. you can ring them for help and it takes so long for them to get back to you has any one else had this problem with a moscow plus bike Hi Dennis, that sounds frustrating. Thanks for sharing with us, I hope you are able to find some solutions or maybe sell the Moscow Plus and try another ebike? Got a Moscow Plus and I’m pretty happy with it. The previous owners stating their issues I believe they may have a dud, Mine works well, shifts very smoothly (for the drivetrain in this price range), the pedal assist works well Talking bang for the buck I believe there is nothing that comes close. 16mA batt 500W motor 80Nm torque, hydraulic brakes, decent tires I mean this bike checks all the boxes for a rear hub low cost bikes. Will see down the road for longevity and issues but as it is I would totally recommend this for someone’s first ebike without shelling out big $$ for a mid drive fancier big name bike. As the review already stated the kickstand position is awkward to say the least and the charger could be better, but these are pretty much my only complaints after owning it for approx 1 month, Thanks for the update, Adrian! Glad to hear that you’re satisfied with the product :) I bought my Moscow Plus a week ago from a local bike shop in lower mainland of BC. Fully charged the battery (53.7 V reading) and took it out for a total of three rides. Got a total of 135 kms before the last battery gauge bar started to flash. was using PAS 1-2 mainly. The only problem encountered so far is when the front derailleur is in the small sprocket and the rear is also in the small sprocket, the chain would tend to skip. Otherwise a good bike. Hi Rob! Very fair assessment, thanks for sharing what has worked and what issues you’ve noticed. I covered this model a long time ago, so perhaps things are outdated a bit. Does your bike mostly fit the description and review I made here? It sounds like you’re pretty happy with it overall, I think they are priced well. Hi, love the reviews and because yours are far most the best, I purchased the NCM Power Plus and am happy with the bike. Only problems I have had since my purchase I found that the fat tires were rather slippery during the winter riding on city roads and I started to get constant rear flat tires, I had about 3 flats all within 2 months after purchase, I took it into the shop and the bike mechanic could not find anything wrong, so I made the decision to change tires from the original Schwalbe 57-662 to 55-662 and 1,766 km later still no flat tires and mystery was never solved. The other issue I have that the Leon website key features state – reach up to 150 km (depending on terrain conditions & power level settings) OK well I thought that this seems a little of an over statement, so was hoping for at least 100km range on a full battery but I don’t even get close so I would love to know how this 150km range is achieved – I am 5’11” and weigh 91kg. I usually bike on good flat city roads and the occasional flat fine gravel cycle path using PAS #3 and 18th gear traveling about 23-25 km/h (21 m/hr) and I am lucky to get 65km (40 miles) range before the flashing cell appears on the screen, so if anyone or yourself can tell me what I am doing wrong and how I can achieve more km range without have to weigh in at 60kg I would be very grateful, as at this stage I feel that the 150km statement made by Leon Cycles is a little misleading. Other changers I have made on my bike are just some short plastic guards and a more comfortable seat. Cheers Glenn Hi Glenn! I’m glad to hear that your new tires are working better. Regarding the range estimates from NCM, most companies I speak with use a 72kg (160lb) rider on flat pavement with no wind using both the low assist and high assist to estimate a range. Since you are riding with PAS #3 I would expect your actual range to fall somewhere between their estimate. The higher the assist, the lower the tire pressure, the less smooth the terrain, and the more throttle is used will all reduce your range. Another way range is sometimes calculated is to divide the watt hours of the battery pack by 20 so that would be 768 / 20 = 38.4 minimum range. It sounds like you are getting close to that number (you said 40 miles). Over time, battery cells may not provide the same high capacity as they are power cycled, and the parts of the bike could become dirty and less smooth. A tuneup could help increase range. This ebike also uses a cadence sensor, which doesn’t require much pedal input from the rider, so the motor usually works harder than a torque sensor. These are all of my thoughts, I hope they help you :) bikes crap…. my throttle has already broken the display screen has frozen and won’t let me change pedal assistance settings….. complete angler Gosnells is where i brought it from they scammed me and put 1.95 inch tubes when its supposed to have 3 inch wide tubes…. disappointing Post a Comment Cancel reply. Your email address will not be published. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. 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This-Colours: black Capacity: 750 ml Coverage: 8-10 m² / l for 40 micron dry layer thickness of minimum 2 layers-Pro-antifouling for boats of fishing and pleasure lasts Matrix Suitable for all waters-as antifouling for polyester boats-wood and ... Self-polishing Antifouling Yachtcare 2.5L Black Reviews Self-polishing Antifouling Yachtcare 2.5L Black * We found other products you might like! Hard Antifouling paint Veneziani Speedy Carbonium 0,75L Grey. Regular Price $102.90-26% Special Price $75.90 ... Antifouling paint Marlin Velox Plus 0,5L Black. Regular Price $101.90-31% Special Price $70.50. Hard Antifouling Hempel Hard Racing 0 ... Yachtcare Antifouling SP 2.5 L For fast motor boats, we recommend the anti-fouling Yachtcare Action. Choose the right shade - the self-polishing anti-fouling from Yachtcare is available in four different shades - blue, black, red and off-white. Use biocidal products carefully. ... 10 x Colorus Superfine Plus Paint Rollers, Foam Roller, 11 cm Straight, Paint Roller for Water ... Technical Data Sheet Tds: Tmc256p Antifouling a Plus (All Colours) 525 ANTIFOULING A PLUS (ALL COLOURS) 525/C256P TDS: TMC256P DESCRIPTION: Teamac Antifouling A Plus is a modified composition containing a high level of copper thiocyanate to give good antifouling performance. Suitable for aluminium hulls. Designed for vessels with a max speed of 25 to 30 knots. Expected functional life of the coating is 18 to 24 ... Yachtcare Antifouling Plus Zulassung Niederlande ANTIFOULING PLUS is a self-polishing antifouling as antifouling protection for the underwater area. Due to the self-renewing ef... Yachtcare Antifouling Plus Zulassung Niederlande Teamac Antifouling A Plus Coating High level of copper thiocyanate 1 When this is clean and dry apply the 2 coats of Metaclor Primer, then 2 coats of Antifouling A Plus. Bare Surfaces: On exposed metal and wood, prime first with at least 2 coats of Teamac Metaclor Underwater Primer (but not more than 3). On GRP lightly abrade exposed surfaces and apply 2 coats of Teamac Metaclor Underwater Primer. Yachtcare Antifouling Action 750 ml Yachtcare Anti-fouling action 750 ml blue hard antifouling for boats : Amazon.de: Sports & Outdoors ... 10 x Colorus Superfine Plus Paint Rollers, Foam Roller, 11 cm Straight, Paint Roller for Water-based Paints and Lightly Solvent-based Paints, Paint Roller Including 2K Paint Roller Bracket. PDF MOSCOW PLUS 48V OWNER'S MANUAL Install the front wheel. Insert the front wheel (3) into the dropouts (4) of the fork. 4. Tighten the axle nut (2) and close the quick release lever (1). The lever must be pointed upwards (and aligned with the fork to prevent snagging) and should be closed with noticeable. NCM Moscow Plus Electric Bike Review The 500 watt, geared, brushless hub motor felt incredibly responsive. This model comes with 6 assist levels, a full-throttle, and a walk-assist feature. We w... Yachtcare Action AF 2.5L Hard Antifouling for Boats Yachtcare anti-fouling primer - primer for anti-fouling. 4.7 out of 5 stars 148. 5 offers from €25.00. 10 x Colorus Superfine Plus Paint Rollers, Foam Roller, 11 cm Straight, Paint Roller for Water-based Paints and Lightly Solvent-based Paints, Paint Roller Including 2K Paint Roller Bracket. NCM Moscow Plus The Moscow Plus keeps everything people love about the highly popular Moscow, and then improves them. Most of all, we've improved performance: an upgraded Su... NCM Moscow Plus Review The 180mm rotor hydraulic disc brakes are a great upgrade here, they are complimented well by a nicer derailleur, better gearing range, and more gearing options here on the Plus vs the regular Moscow. The Plus is actually lighter by 1.4lbs despite its larger battery, better fork, upgraded gel saddle, and nicer display. catamaran gulet motorboat powerboat riverboat sailboat trimaran yacht