sailboat cabin heater

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Types of Boat Cabin Heater

For all but the hardiest of UK based sailors, a boat cabin heater is essential if your pride and joy is to be enjoyed year round. Not just for the warmth, but also to dispel the dampness that can pervade our boats in cold weather.

Boat cabin heaters fall into two distinct groups:~

Direct heating , where a stand-alone heater disperses warmth through the cabin by natural convection and radiation alone, and

Indirect heating , where heat from a remotely located unit is distributed throughout the boat by ducted hot air or hot water radiators, very much like a domestic central heating system.

There are options within each group; let's take a look at them...

Direct Heating Systems

Paraffin fuelled boat cabin heaters.

I once owned a Nicholson 32 with a paraffin fuelled boat heater - a Taylor cabin heater -  fitted in the saloon. It threw out great quantities of dry heat for a miserly usage of fuel. It was simple to maintain, and providing I did so regularly was never any trouble.

But the previous owner had installed it halfway up a bulkhead at the forward end of the saloon; there was just nowhere else for it to go.

As a result, my lower extremities would still be in the early stages of thawing out whilst parts above were toasting nicely.

Hardly the fault of the heater, but for best results they should be fitted closer to the cabin sole.

Like all boat cabin heaters of this type, it used a manually pressurised fuel tank to feed the paraffin to an 'Optimus' type burner, which had to be pre-heated by burning a small quantity of methylated spirits in a moat below it.

They use no electricity at all; if there was a fan club for them, I'd join.

Through Ventilation is Vital...

But burning paraffin, or any other hydrocarbon fuel for that matter, produces carbon dioxide and large amounts of water vapour, both of which must be vented to the atmosphere. Bulkhead mounted heaters of this type are vented to a mushroom exhaust cap on deck, and often incorporate a short chimney to improve the upward draft. Even so, there remains a risk.

Chimneys only work if the hot gas inside is sufficiently lighter than the surrounding air to create an upward draft. In cold weather the temptation is to close all ventilation hatches and portlights that face upwind.

With all the remaining vents and cowls facing downwind, the main hatch open and also acting as an exhaust, the pressure within the boat can be lower than that outside, and may be sufficient to reverse the flow of fumes in the chimney. The carbon dioxide will then gradually replace the oxygen in the cabin, and go on to produce carbon monoxide.

This is really nasty stuff; it's highly toxic, odourless, colourless and tasteless - and if it doesn't kill you, it can leave you permanently brain damaged.

The solution is to close the outlets in the ventilation system and open some of the inlets to maintain positive pressure in the cabin; then the chimney will work properly and you'll live to sail another day.

Even so, every boat should have one of these:

Diesel Fuelled Boat Cabin Heaters

Outwardly diesel fueled boat heaters are very similar to the paraffin types, but with some essential operational differences.

Gone is the need to pressurize the fuel tank; these units are drip fed from a gravity tank, which is either topped up manually or via an electrically pumped supply from the yacht's main fuel tanks.

Admittedly there's an added degree of complexity with the latter types, but the convenience is appealing and the power consumption is insignificant; around 0.25Ah per day.

Propane Fuelled Boat Cabin Heaters

I prefer to conserve my propane for the galley, so a propane cabin heater would not be my first choice.

But many owners, particularly those with smaller boats, speak highly of these types of cabin heaters.

As with the previous types, these produce water vapour and carbon dioxide so adequate ventilation is again absolutely essential.

This particular model incorporates two important safety features:~

• a thermocouple that provides instant shut-off if the flame is extinguished, and
• an oxygen depletion device which shuts off both the flame and the gas supply if the oxygen level in the cabin ever drops below 95% of the norm.

Solid Fuel Cabin Heaters

Maybe not as popular as they once were, probably owing the the convenience of paraffin, diesel and propane heaters, these nevertheless still have their devotees. 

They will burn wood, charcoal and other solid fuels from which they produce a clean, dry heat.

Indirect Heating Systems

As with domestic central heating systems there are two types of Indirect Heating Systems in marine use - forced hot air (airtronic) and forced hot water (hydronic) systems.

In both cases diesel is drawn from the boats main fuel tanks and combusted in a sealed chamber located in an out-of-the-way space.

Exhaust gases are vented to the atmosphere, and the burners are microprocessor-controlled enabling automatic shutdown in the event of overheating.

Forced Hot Air Boat Cabin Heaters

With these, the burner draws combustion air from outside the boat as well as from inside, and burns it in a chamber with an air-to-air heat exchanger.

A blower unit then forces the heated air through flexible ducting to outlets in appropriate parts of the boat, which can be opened or closed as required.

A thermostat controls the temperature, turning the system on and off automatically.

But, conversely, airtronic systems can be used to cool the boat. In otherwise static conditions, with the heater switched off and the blower fans operating, fresh air will be distributed through the ducting.

And, if combined with an air conditioning unit, cooled air can be distributed around the boat.

Forced Hot Water Boat Cabin Heaters

The combustion parts of these systems are similar to the airtronic ones, but incorporate an air-to-water heat exchanger, the cooling water from which is pumped around the boat through a system of pipes and radiators.

The radiators are either convection type, or more commonly, fan-forced in much the same way as a car heater. The fan speed on each radiator can be adjusted manually, or controlled automatically by thermostats.

Whilst more complex and expensive than their airtronic cousins, the hot water systems do provide additional benefits:~

• They can be adapted to provide domestic hot water;
• They can be plumbed into the boat's engine (and generator) cooling water systems via a heat exchanger. Then, when underway and using the waste heat that would otherwise be lost, heater fuel consumption will be reduced. This also works in reverse, to preheat the engine and assist starting in cold climates.

Depending on size and the temperature setting, both types can be impressively extravagant with your electrical power.

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Hot Stuff – DIY Sailboat Cabin Heater

Posted by Drew Frye | Interior , Projects

A simple, low-cost stovetop heater takes the edge off a chilly cabin.

F ew sailboats have a dedicated heating system for warming the cabin, something built-in and properly vented. This makes sense because a cabin heater with a flue can be a complicated, bulky, and expensive affair, and something that’s perhaps used only on occasion. So, when it’s cool and we decide to spend a night swinging on the hook, away from shorepower, many of us rely on portable heaters, usually propane.

A portable propane heater can do the trick, but these heaters also require ventilation as they consume oxygen and emit water vapor and carbon dioxide—and produce carbon monoxide as a byproduct of incomplete combustion. The rough-and-ready solution is to crack a window, but how wide? And then how much of the heat is lost?

There is another approach, a simple, non-bulky, low-cost solution that uses an existing onboard heat source: the stove.

The stove can’t tip and start a fire (unless something combustible falls on it, which can be prevented by maintaining a clear countertop). And although stoves generally don’t include an oxygen depletion sensor like you’d find on a portable heater, it’s easy to add a carbon monoxide monitor to the cabin.

All that’s needed to turn the stove into an effective, ventilated cabin heater is to provide a heat transfer surface and a way to funnel the exhaust outside the cabin. In fact, the ubiquitous Sig Marine (now Dickinson) Cozy Cabin heaters are not much more than this: a simple burner below an inverted-can heat transfer space, connected to a 1-inch stainless steel flue.

The stove aboard my boat is an Origo 2000, a non-pressurized alcohol stove fueled by denatured ethanol. I have turned it into an efficient, safe heater by using a retired, upside-down stainless steel soup pot as the heat transfer surface, resting atop the burner. Here’s how I did it.

• 1-inch ribbed duct hose, stainless. McMaster Carr 5241K13, $23.80 for 5 feet
• 4-quart stainless soup pot, thrift store or surplus
• Aluminum flashing
• 6 inches of 1-inch copper tubing
• (1) 1-inch copper 90-degree el
• Assorted small screws and two long cotter pins or nails
• Plywood or similar to build slider insert, or better, install the flue through cabin roof or bulkhead if you will use the heater often

Here Is How I Did It

First, I cut a 1-inch flue opening in the side of the pot with a hole saw, into which I inserted a 1-inch copper pipe stub. I attached the pipe by slotting to create tabs inside and out, which I secured with small bolts (blind rivets would have been a cleaner solution). Next, I added a 3-inch-high flashing skirt to accommodate and hold a pot on the top. The skirt also improves the seal around the flue exit.

For the flue, I attached 1-inch (ID) corrugated stainless steel duct to the copper stub on the pot, using a cotter pin driven through both. There is no need to seal this connection because the entire length is under slight suction. This flue must rise steadily, without low spots, and be 3-6 feet long.

The first season I used my heater, I kept the exhaust system simple. I cut a 3-inch-wide board to fit the aft end of the companionway slider, drilled a hole in the board, and passed the exhaust end of the flue through it. This way, I didn’t have to drill a hole in the boat.

But after realizing my heater worked, and that there was nothing to improve, I drilled a hole in the cockpit bulkhead for a permanent flue, which is just 3 inches of 1-inch copper pipe. There’s no need to insulate the pass-through because the flue temperature never exceeds 120° F. So far, rain has not blown in, and I could easily cap it if necessary. If the wind is from ahead or the beam as it would be sailing or at anchor, the draft is fine, but if there’s a strong wind from astern—for example in a marina—it can blow the draft into the cabin. I keep a 1-inch copper 90 el, which, when pointed up, solves that.

The burner on my Origo 2000 stove is rated at 7,000 Btu. Because my stovetop heater uses the same flue size as the 5,000-Btu Sig Marine Cozy Cabin heater, I decided to not exceed that combustion rate and keep the burner valve between 1⁄2 to 2⁄3 open. This will give a heat output of about 1,500 watts, enough to fully warm the cabin of my 24-foot boat in 10-20 minutes in cool to cold weather. If I can feel some of the exhaust backing out from under the inverted pot and into the cabin, I know the burner is firing too high.

To confirm the heater’s efficiency and safety, I took some measurements. I wanted to be sure the exhaust was leaving the cabin, so I scanned the surface and flue with an infrared thermometer. The pot surface reaches about 290-340° F. By the time the exhaust reaches the outlet, it has cooled to 80-120° F, proving high efficiency. I tested the air 1⁄2-inch below the lower rim of the pot, curious whether some of the exhaust was sneaking out under the bottom; the carbon dioxide level was barely above background, and the temperature never exceeded 200° F, confirming that essentially all of the exhaust goes up through the flue.

The purpose of the flashing rim and upper pot is to add heat transfer surface area and improve heating efficiency. Most of the time, the upper pot will be empty. But if I crank the burner to high and add two cups of water to the upper pot, the water will boil in 10-15 minutes. With the burner turned down—as it should be to warm the cabin—it will simmer soup, without burning or polluting the cabin with carbon dioxide.

Another advantage my vented, stovetop heater has over a portable propane heater is dryness. Burning propane (or alcohol) produces water vapor. Dry air is nearly as important as warm air to comfort because insulation remains more efficient. An unvented heater will raise the humidity 30-60 percent, making for a clammy cabin and causing condensation on the windows—not a problem with the vented heater.

This heater will work with stoves burning alcohol, propane, CNG, butane, and kerosene , as long as the firing rate is similar. The differences in combustion are small.

Although the heater is stable enough to be used underway, the pot on top is not. Also, I don’t leave the heater on while I sleep. It’s not designed for that, and I like sleeping under a thick quilt or in a warm sleeping bag. Nor do I leave it on while away from the boat. I run it from sundown, through the dinner hour, until ready for bed. I use a carbon monoxide monitor, and when cooking on the stove, I usually crack the companionway slider to evacuate water vapor.

Just running the Origo stove for one hour with the regulator half open and the cabin tightly closed, carbon dioxide reaches 15,000 ppm and carbon monoxide level reaches 100 ppm, both well into the danger zone. A cracked window will reduce this, but unless the window is open wide enough to admit considerable draft—rather defeating the purpose in cold weather—there remains serious risk of exceeding the limits for good health and clear thinking.

Keeping a Clear Head—DF

I value my brain cells and will not take risks with them; I’ve never been a fan of portable heaters.

Carbon dioxide concentrations over 1,500 ppm affect thinking and are universally considered cause for investigation and correction. Over 2,000 ppm is considered serious by health departments. Ten-thousand ppm is the threshold of serious problems with medium-term exposure (many hours to days), and both OSHA and NIOSH limit workplace exposure to 5,000 ppm.

I did a few simple calculations for my Corsair F-24. If I run an unvented portable propane heater at about 4,000 Btu/hour (what is required for a 45° F evening), assuming no ventilation other than combustion air replacement, carbon dioxide levels will reach 60,000 ppm within six hours, about the threshold of unconsciousness.

The Flowerpot Heater Myth—DF

The story goes like this: Place a flowerpot over a stove burner, and you have an effective, safe cabin heater for peanuts. Thermodynamics says otherwise, but I decided to test this myth anyway, because it would be great if it were true. Unfortunately, none of it is true, except for it being cheap.

Without regard to the efficacy of the flowerpot heater, using one can be dangerous. About 60 percent of glazed pots and 30 percent of unglazed pots I tested shattered violently at 400˚ F, throwing large, hot pieces of pot 2-5 feet. Only by limiting the temperature to 300˚ F (by keeping the flame quite low) was the shattering risk reduced to an acceptable nonviolent level. Considering that even Corningware is not stovetop safe, this should be obvious.

I used small (5- to 6-inch-diameter) and large (7- to 9-inch-diameter) clay flowerpots over a natural gas flame (bear in mind that propane is a little hotter, alcohol a little cooler). I measured pot temperatures and cooling rates, and I calculated radiant heat output of the naked flame and burner grate, and of the pot and burner grate. It’s important to note that when the pot is on the burner, any heat radiated by the naked flame, burner, and grate is blocked by the pot.

First, some basic physics. All heated materials absorb and then radiate heat. The amount they radiate is proportional to the fourth power of their temperature, as measured on an absolute scale, either Rankine or Kelvin. The hotter they are, the more they emit and the shorter the wavelength of the emissions.

Radiation is just one method of heat transfer; the others are conduction (the direct transfer of heat between solid objects in contact with one another, like how a hot pot heats the metal handle attached to it) and convection (the movement of heat energy within a gas or liquid, like how a heat source warms the air near it and that air begins to move and circulate). But it’s only radiant heat that is relevant to the question of whether the flowerpot heater offers a benefit. This is because for conductive heat to offer any benefit, you’d have to hold the pot. Convective heat isn’t very relevant either, because the balance of the heat in the flame would end up mixed in with the cabin air anyway.

A 7-inch flowerpot heated to 320˚ F emits about 150 watts (500 Btu) of thermal radiation. If the pot reaches 400˚ F, the amount of radiation emitted increases to about 370 watts, or about 1,100 Btu. In contrast, a naked propane flame is over 1,500˚ F and the burner grate will reach 400˚ to 800˚ F, depending on location. The radiation rate of the flame and grate alone is greater per unit area than that of the flowerpot, but the area of the flame and grate combo is much smaller. The result is that the pot offers little increase in the amount of heat radiated.

On the other hand, portable propane heaters, like the Mr. Heater line, heat a ceramic grid red hot (about 2-3 times hotter than the flowerpot on an absolute scale), and are thus 20-80 times more efficient at converting fuel energy into radiant heat. However, that does not mean they create more heat; the total Btu is fixed by the amount of fuel burned and cannot be increased.

It’s often said that the heated pot stores and releases heat over a longer period, thus keeping the cabin warm long after the stove is off. This sounds good but isn’t really accurate. First, a large pot will cool relatively quickly, smaller pots even faster. A 9-inch glazed flowerpot that starts at 300° F drops to 195° in five minutes, 130° in 10 minutes, and at a half an hour is at 85° F. The same pot starting at 450° F drops to 345° in five minutes, 280° in 10 minutes, and is at 110° in a half an hour. The hotter the pot, the faster the cooling.

Second, a large pot that weighs 3.2 pounds doesn’t store a lot of heat, a smaller pot even less. The specific heat of brick clay is .22 Btu/pound, and let’s say, for example, that a large pot cools from a high of 450˚ F to a low of 55˚ F overnight. The heat released by the pot is 278 Btu.

By comparison, let’s say the cabin sole, bulkheads, and furniture have all been heated to 70˚ F during a typical day, with the air temperature dropping quickly after sunset. The specific heat of pine (for example) is .66 Btu/pound. Assuming there are 500 pounds of furnishings, linings, flooring, and supplies in the cabin, with an average specific heat value equivalent to pine, the heat capacity of the cabin infrastructure is about 6,600 Btu. Additionally, the cabin furnishings will cool much more slowly, because at any given time, the temperature difference between the furnishings and the cabin air is very small. As noted above, hot objects cool far more rapidly than cooler ones. Thus, the clay pot represents only 4 percent of the heat holding capacity of the cabin as it cools during the evening (and this heat is given up within a few minutes). A rounding error at most.

Bottom Line: If it is merely cool, pull on a sweater. You can run the stove for a few minutes now and then, cooking a meal or making tea. This is less wasteful and just as effective as the flowerpot. If it is actually cold, install a proper heating system. The benefits of a flowerpot on the stove are at least an exaggeration, and more realistically, a dangerous myth.

About The Author

draws on his training as a chemical engineer and pastimes of climbing and sailing to solve boat problems. He cruises Chesapeake Bay and mid-Atlantic coast in his Corsair F-24 trimaran, Fast and Furry-ous, using its shoal draft to venture into less explored waters. He is most recently author of Rigging Modern Anchors.

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Boat-Heating Options

There are plenty of ways to extend the season and keep a cosy cabin, ranging from simple to complex. here's a view of the solution range..

A definite correlation exists between the degree to which we are warm and dry, and the enjoyment of a sail, or a night at anchor. A damp and chilly environment may be exacerbated by a poorly insulated hull, leaks, and sweating. Sitting beneath a drippy port or headliner, or curling up in a damp bunk, just isn’t fun.

Your boat can be matched to a heating system that, at one end of the spectrum, will simply prevent the formation of icicles or, at the other, provide a space as warm as that den at home. Sources range from electric “cubes” and oil-filled radiators plugged in dockside, to hanging lamps, to the nautical equivalent of central heating. Cost ranges from almost nothing to the limits of your credit card, notwithstanding the recapture of part of the initial cost when the boat is sold.

We last covered this topic in the September 1997 issue. While many of the options remain the same, there have been a few new twists in the intervening six years. So here’s the updated overview.

Health Issues and Background There are two related dangers in heating a boat with any kind of fossil-based fuel. The first is the chance of producing and/or concentrating carbon monoxide in the living spaces. As we know, CO will kill us straightaway. The second is complacency in assuming that we have the CO angle covered adequately. The more the brain is deprived of oxygen, the less able it is to understand what’s happening to it. So, proper ventilation of living spaces aboard a heated boat, no matter what type of system is used, no matter whether it’s vented outboard or via portholes and companionway, is absolutely vital.

Heat for a physical space is typically measured and reported in British Thermal Units, or Btu. (Heat produced by the energy of the human body is measured in calories.) A Btu is the amount of heat energy required to raise the temperature of 1 pound of water 1 Fahrenheit. Determining what type of heater is best for you involves considering the characteristics of fuels (see accompanying table), the hardware options to run it; where the hardware will be on board; how to strike a balance between insulation and ventilation; your own tolerance of (if not liking for) cold temperatures; and the weather in which you plan to be afloat.

Fuel Types Small electric heaters are handy for taking the chill off a boat in the morning, evaporating dew that may accumulate on the overhead when bodies sleep below, or on a chilly evening.

When your cold-weather travels extend beyond the marina, however, so do the requirements for a different system. Beyond the output of the heating system, a primary consideration is the capacity to carry fuel for the duration of a voyage, and the availability of fuel in destination ports. Generally, towing a barge loaded with crude oil is not a viable option. Thus, choices become diesel, kerosene, propane (LPG), natural gas (CNG), wood, coal, pellet fuel, alcohol, or charcoal. Of the options, diesel and kerosene are the most readily available. Propane is also easy to find. CNG is not. Good stove alcohol is available in chandleries, and is convenient if you’re already running an alcohol stove-but it’s not the fuel of choice for serious systems.

In temperate climes, a simple oil or kerosene lamp will take the edge off the chill well into autumn. Using deodorized kerosene eliminates the odor of the fuel. However, an excess of fuel produces smoke, ruins the wick, and creates a housekeeping chore. Since kerosene produces four gallons of water vapor per gallon of fuel, not an insignificant amount, lamps require good venting, and quite a bit of heat goes out the window, literally. They are, however, romantic.

How to determine how much heat you need? One method is to determine the average of the water and outdoor temperatures during the coldest months. Then, assume that 700 cubic feet of interior volume requires 3,000 Btu to maintain a temperature 25 higher than that average. However, there really are too many variables involved to put much stock in a formula like that. Boats, people, and locales all differ far too much, and what’s comfortable enough for one person will be misery for another.

Again, for many who spend an occasional day or night aboard in chilly weather, simple oil lamps, bolstered by a good fleece pullover and warm shoes, will often suffice. One of us, for example, heated the main cabin of a Hans Christian 34 while anchored at several Pacific Coast harbors from early fall until mid-winter with an Aladdin lamp suspended overhead. But many people wouldn’t have been comfortable in that cabin. Another lived aboard at City Island, NY, completely frozen in one winter for over a month, with temperatures never rising above about 20 F. In those temperatures, the oil-filled electric radiator couldn’t begin to keep up. That was a winter when most of the liveaboards gathered daily to splice the main brace aboard a Whitby 42 with diesel heat.

In order to get truly adjustable comfort, or to equip a boat to stand up against serious elements, a fixed system will be required. We could then divide those systems into two subsets-ones that carry heat around the boat by means of pipes or ducting, (e.g. that Whitby) and those with a strong central heat source (e.g. a fireplace) and fans to move the air into the far reaches of the boat.

Moving the Heat Nothing is more efficient than radiant heat produced by the sun, or a heat source that directly affects the area to which it is exposed. However, while sitting in direct sunlight on a cold or damp deck, your nose may be toasty while moss grows on your posterior.

The same is true belowdecks. Few boats are well-insulated, and whatever warmth is developed below on a cold night tends to be exchanged at a fast rate for the chilly stuff.

Here’s a scenario that will be familiar to many: The air temperature in the harbor is 40 F. and there’s a wet wind blowing at 12 knots. The water temperature is 46 F. You’re sitting in the main cabin right next to your main heat source (a wood stove, an electric radiator, whatever). Your head and torso are hot. Your hands are warm. Your feet are cold. The forepeak is cold. The aft cabin is cold. The head is cold. You lean outboard and put your feet up. Within a minute, your head is cold and your feet are hot.

You may have an excellent source of heat and a lot of Btus, but this is what life will generally be like in cold weather if you have no method to circulate warm air into occupied spaces efficiently. Options include units mounted on bulkheads that rely on fans; ducted systems with outlets in living and sleeping quarters; and heat produced by the circulation of warm fluids to a heat exchanger.

Small Electric Heaters There are dozens of these on the market, so we’ll just mention a few. This type of heater is most appropriate for the heating of small spaces, or replacing a light bulb that once served as a boat dehumidifier during winter months. The simplest solution is a portable unit equipped with a fan. Add a thermostat and the heater may be left running during winter months to prevent the formation of frost belowdecks, and may prevent the accumulation of ice on the deck. We had good luck heating a 36-foot race boat in San Francisco and the Pacific Northwest using this method.

Caframo’s Turbo Heater, and its lookalikes, are traditional electric heaters. The newest Caframo units have separate switches that control temperature and fan speed, though designating heat output is measured on a scale of 1-4, rather than by a thermostat. A new wrinkle is an “anti- freeze setting” that automatically activates the unit when the temperature reaches 38 F. A disadvantage of these units is that they blow heat in only one direction. Suggested retail is typically $60-70.

We found the Holmes One-Touch ($99 on sale) at a hardware store. Not exactly a household name, knockoffs are marketed under several brand names. This electric unit is equipped with a two-speed fan, has fixed and oscillating capacities, and temperature settings between 60-80 F in 5- degree increments. It’s an excellent alternative to the fixed unit.

It is unlikely you’ll find the Back Seat Plus (model 3000) manufactured by ThermTech in a chandlery, since it’s primary use is as a back seat heater for vans and sports ‘utes. Nonetheless, this 12-volt unit, which is equipped with a quartz heat cell, produces 1,100 Btu and is thermostatically controlled. It will be handy when heating smaller spaces, like the V- berth on a 25-footer, when connected to a long wire harness.

Equipped with a swivel bracket, it can be mounted where heat is needed, and is only 5″ x 7.75″ x 8.25″. Suggested retail price is $150.

Alcohol Heaters The Origo Heat Pal is an alcohol-fueled heater that has been on the market for a long time in various models, and Origo has become the company most closely associated with alcohol cooking and heating in the marine world. This heater isn’t very sophisticated-it just provides a relatively safe place to burn the fuel. It need not be permanently mounted, and would serve well for the occasional warming effort, especially if your primary stove fuel is alcohol. Just remember to ventilate well, expect some condensation, and buy the best alcohol you can find, to reduce odor. Despite its wide base, we’d be reluctant to use it underway. Retail price is $147.

Cook Stoves and Fans Unless you’re desperate to prevent the formation of icicles on the headliner, a cookstove should not be used as a source of heat. An open flame is not particularly effective and creates a fire hazard. We should mention, however, that many people over the years have reported success in warming cabins by upending ceramic flower pots (vented) over a burner flame set on low. Again, much depends on how you circulate the resulting heat.

If you’re considering this method, have a look at the Wallas Safeflame 800+210 and 125 DP/DU, which offer no-flame operation and convert a stove to a forced-air heater by lowering a lid that becomes a ceramic surface. These units are most common in the gallies of small powerboats. As heaters, they are pricey; as an option for a combined stove and heater, less so, and compact. The kerosene-fueled 800+210 unit develops 4,000 Btu at a cost of $875; the 125 DP/DU, which is diesel-powered, 6,000 Btu at $1,350.

Solid Fuel Stoves Beyond their functionality, these units usually make lovely additions to a wood-paneled saloon. They may be fueled by wood, coal, charcoal, or pellet fuel, but the downside is that they don’t fuel themselves. Therefore, the trade-off for a small combustion chamber is likely to be a few stoking sessions in the middle of the night.

While free-standing models exist, these stoves should be mounted on a bulkhead, and they’re more efficient when equipped with a fan.

Installation involves placement of a stovepipe/chimney, usually 3″ in diameter, for proper ventilation. The pipe, and the weatherproof cap atop it abovedecks, are called a Charlie Noble. Though Charlie may be a shiny accent piece, he also can burn gear or canvas left close to his cap.

These stoves require a high degree of maintenance, since the buildup of tar and soot in the stovepipe are a by-product of the fuel used.

The Paul E. Luke company’s tile fireplaces have fireboxes fabricated from plate, which reduces the potential for leakage at square-cut joints. An option is an LPG burner with an automatic shut-offactivated when the flame is extinguished.

However, Frank Luke says, “The most popular versions are still thesolid-fuel units. We currently have some uncommonly beautiful Virginia soapstone which has a nice fine grain and interesting marbling. The most popular models are the polished brass units. They need to be polished regularly, so my father said ‘that’s the other way they keep you warm.'”

Prices for 24″ tall units range from $1,549 for Soapstone to $1,795 for solid brass or stainless steel.

Liquid Fuel Fireplaces The alternatives to solid-fueled units are fueled by kerosene, diesel, or LPG. Most use a drip form of burner, and fuel flow is regulated by a needle valve. Plumbing a unit from the boat’s fuel tank simplifies storage. Force 10 and Dickinson Marine share the majority of the market here.

Dickinsons Newport P9000, the most traditional model, is fueled by diesel or kerosene and produces 3,100 -4300 Btu. A recent upgrade for sailboats adds the option to convert to propane with a unit that may be mounted higher on a bulkhead than older models. A built-in blower fan directs air downward to maximize circulation. Turn on the fan and the range increases from 5,500 to 7,500 Btu. The company recently added the model P12000, which has output ranging from 4,000 to 9, 700 Btu. Some models are equipped with an electric spark ignition and automatic gas flow shut-off to prevent the flow of fuel if the flame is extinguished; some are available with thermostats, others with a forced-air blower.

Depending upon fuel type, the P9000 retails for $691-$710; the P12000 for $796. A solid-fuel unit retails for $344.

Force 10 also offers liquid-fueled units with automatic starting. These automatically shut off when the oxygen content of the cabin drops below 95% of normal, a real plus.

The company’s Direct Vent Cabin Heater (model 13000) outputs 4,000-9,000 Btu using propane; it is priced at $840. The Model 10000 Cozy Cabin Heater is a smaller version, also powered by propane, that produces 6,000 Btu, weighs only 11 pounds, and retails for $480. A near twin, the model 10004 is fueled by diesel or kerosene, with the same Btu rating. It requires a pressurized fuel source (like a bicycle pump) and must be preheated with alcohol before use-both inconveniences. Suggested retail is $415.

The only shortcoming of this type of unit is that it lacks the circulatory ability to prevent big fluctuations in temperature from cabin to cabin.

Since both companies are bastions of the industry, and their current products the result of an evolutionary process, choosing between the two may be a function of evaluating the space in which the unit will be installed, cost per Btu, and appearance.

Forced Air and Water Systems In operation, these bear a striking resemblance to the units used in houses. A typical unit is fitted with an electrically powered fuel pump, flame ignition device, forced draft combustion chamber and heat exchanger, fuel metering pump, and integrated control unit. Hot air is circulated via flex tubes to vents, generally in the saloon and staterooms. The effectiveness of the systems is determined by the power of the heater, and distance to vents. The newest units on the marketplace take up surprisingly little space, are easily mounted, and may be coupled to an existing fuel source. Their greatest disadvantages are initial cost and the amount of space they take up.

Picking the right unit involves a critical evaluation of the boat’s power system to compare the amount of additional electricity necessary to operate a heater’s fuel pump and blower to existing demands for energy.

The market is dominated by Espar, Webasto, Ardic, and Wallas-European companies represented by American distributors. Of the group, only Wallas and Ardic manufacture heaters designed specifically for the marine industry. Espar, for instance, enjoys great acceptance in the marine market, though 60% of the company’s business is in the trucking industry.

Since our last review, Espar’s new generation of forced-air heaters are 21% lighter, and smaller, and have 40% fewer parts. The models heretofore most commonly found on sailboats, the D1LC compact air heater and D3LC, have been replaced by the Airtronic D2 Air Heater, which produces 2,000 Btu to 7,500 Btu in “boost” mode, and the Airtronic D4, which doubles the Btu output. The D2 weighs only 6 pounds; the DS 9.9 pounds.

Webasto also introduced several new models since our last review. The Air Top Series is designed for use in boats 28 feet and larger, and produces 2,000-18,000 Btu. New features are the elimination of glow plugs, more efficient combustion chambers, reduced noise, and built-in diagnostics program.

The AT3500 ($1,555), designed for use with 28-34 foot boats, includes a central thermostat with automatic shutoff. Heat runs are through 24 mm flexible tubing. Total runs should not exceed 30 feet.

The newest Wallas models are the 30D and 40D Nautic forced-air diesel heaters, which produce from 2,700 to 14,000 Btu. Both are compact, weighing only 20-22 pounds, and requiring 12″ of vertical height, plus plumbing, and consuming 1/4-1/2 gallon of fuel per hour. Improvements are a cleaner burning combustion system; the small unit has a thermostat, the larger an adjustable heat range with optional thermostat. The 30D is priced at $1,850; the 40D at $2,150.

Though seen less often on sailboats, an option to circulating warm air is a system that circulates heated fluids to heat exchangers. Heated fluid is transferred from a combustion chamber through a sealed loop routed to various parts of the vessel. At each location, a heat exchanger equipped with a small blower provides a flow of heated air. This type of installation is often easier on a smaller boat than finding room for an air duct.

In addition to Btu, a key measurement is the rate at which water flows through the boat, called “water throughput,” which is measured in gallons per hour. A second measurement is fuel consumption, compared to alternative heating methods.

In addition to producing clean heat, these systems generally offer two additional advantages: hot water from the heater can be plumbed into the heat exchanger of an existing hot water heater, thus also producing hot water for galley and head. In cold climes, the hot water may be used to heat the boat’s engine block, easing starting and reducing the draw on batteries.

Espar’s Hydronic line of coolant heaters have outputs ranging from 5,500 Btu to 120,000 Btu, which might be adequate to heat the Endeavour. An advantage is that all of the components, excepting external plumbing, are essentially self-contained, and have 2 to 4 cycle levels to maintain a constant water temperature. The Hydronic D4, for example, which may be powered by diesel or kerosene, produces 13,700 Btu in boost mode, and circulates 132 gallons per hour. The Wallas Ardic 952-DW produces 16,000 Btu in passive mode, which doubles when the engine is running. But heat comes at a price: a system with a diesel- fueled heater with water and fuel pump, control unit, and three-speed blower costs $2,650.

Conclusions It is impossible to measure the cost of being uncomfortable in dollars, but it is possible to measure the cost of a heater system. First, determine the cost of the heater unit/combustion chamber. Add the cost of piping, ducting, heat exchangers, wiring, Mr. Noble, and the like. Then add the cost of installation. Even if you’re capable of installing the heater, we recommend hiring an expert who will help evaluate your boat’s requirements, develop an installation plan, and provide a list of required tools. When the project is completed, the technician should examine the system before first use.

Also With This Article Click here to view “Fuel Characteristics.” Click here to view “What Installers Say About Heating Systems.” Click here to view “Specifications: Selected Heaters.”

Contacts Ardic, Wallas, 888/606-6665; www.scanmarineusa.com . Caframo, 800/223-7266; www.caframo.com . Dickinson Marine, 800/659-9768; www.dickinsonmarine.com . Espar Heater Systems, 800/387-4800; www.espar.com . Force 10 Marine, 800/663-8515; www.force10.com . Paul E. Luke, 207/633-4971; www.peluke.com . Origo, 941/355-4488; www.origo-sweden.com . Therm-Tech, 616/530-6540; www.therm-tech.com . Webasto/Sure Marine Service, 800/562-7797; www.suremarine.com .

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

Having trouble with my steering it is a hydraulic steering which has been blead I am thinking my brother maybe too small for the size of the boat I have a 36 foot Taiwanese troll can anybody advise

See if you have a small seal or line leak. I have had my ram and healm rebuilt and it fixed my problem.

I want to share my experience with a thermostat controlled oil filled radiant electric heater. It performed flawlessly on board for the entirety of 3 or 4 years while in marinas on the NW Pacific coast, preventing mildew and fungal growth during winter with no one aboard and for comfort at other times of the year when people were on board. However, one night while I was on board, I was awoken by a very acrid odor and found the cabin filled with dense smoke. After escaping to the cockpit to get air, I went back down into the main cabin, turned on the overhead lights and found the odor and smoke coming from the heater. The electric power cord to the heater was not hot and no circuit breaker had been triggered. In the morning I found that a small area of the metal jacket had rusted through, allowing ambient air to mix with the oil where the heat electrode makes contact with the passive circulation of the oil. Judging by the smoke and the odor, I think it was very near the point of combustion and quite likely would have started the boat on fire, or at the very least could have resulted in my death by asphyxiation, had I not awoken in time. My thoughts on how this happened is that in a cool humid salty air environment, each time the thermostat prompts the unit to turn off, the salty humidity in the ambient air begins to cool, allowing salt water vapor to condense onto the metal surface of the heater until the thermostat turns the heater back on. But each time it heats back up, it leaves a thin film of crusted salt that attracts moisture and this process leaves more and more salt deposit by repetition, over and over again. So, my opinion on preventing this from occurring to anyone else is that this type of heater used on a boat, particularly where exposed to salty air, should be routinely inspected for rust and wiped down with a clean cloth dampened with fresh water. And, even without visible rust, the unit should be removed from service on the boat after a period of two years on board, whether used continuously or not. For improved safety I now use an electric dehumidifier, setting the humidistat to turn on at aprox 40% relative humidity. The unit has a fan that circulates cabin air at about 75 degrees F and produces condensed water that drains from the unit via a hose into the sink which has the only thru-hull valve on the boat that I leave open and the double all-stainless hose clamps get inspected for rust before leaving the boat unattended for the winter.

Steve, sounds like a thin wall on the heater or a defective product. I have used these same heater onboard for years and in the house. They are inspected regularly and have had no problems other than replacing a rocker switch.

Great article, hope I won`t need heat much longer.

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How To Heat A Sailboat

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

If you want to extend your boating season into the winter season, stay toasty warm, and dispel the dampness that can infiltrate your boat in cold weather, you need to get a reliable boat cabin heater.

Winter sailing is always a real challenge for most sailors given that the weather conditions are more adverse and calls for more preparedness. Fortunately, several types of boat cabin heaters can transform winter sailing into a more pleasant experience by keeping the interior of the sailboat warm and cozy. So if you do not want winter to spell the end of your sailing season, you’ve come to the right place: here’s how to heat a sailboat.

As we’ve noted, there are several ways to warm your cabin during the winter season or on a cold night. From hydronic systems, heating stoves, engine heaters, forced-air systems to reverse-cycle air condition systems and electric heaters, there are a lot of options for every budget. Although these systems may work differently, the basic idea is the same. They all either use fuel or another energy system to create heat that’s spread throughout the boat.

Let’s explore the most common ways to keep your sailboat warm during the cold season. But before going into that, let’s highlight some critical details.

Table of contents

How to Choose an Appropriate Boat Cabin Heater

The thermal outputs of these heating systems are generally measured in British Thermal Units (BTUs). The more BTUs a system produces, the warmer it can make your boat cabin. You should, however, remember that more BTUs will increase your electrical or fuel demands. In addition to BTUs, choosing the right heating system for your boat will depend largely on how well your boat is insulated, the kind of boat you have, how much time you spend sailing in cold weather, where you’re planning to sail the boat, and how much you’re willing to spend.

A Word of Warning

The dangers of poorly installing a heating system on your boat can never be underrated. Keep in mind that most of these systems will keep your cabin warm by burning oxygen, which can potentially fill the cabin with the deadly carbon monoxide that can quickly leave victims unconscious and may lead to death. As such, safety should be a priority.

How to Heat a Sailboat

Hydronic systems.

These systems are based on the same principles as household hot water heating systems. It revolves around a heated fluid running through a tube to radiators or fan units that warm the air. These tubes should run throughout the sailboat but the fan units or radiators can be divided based on the number of zones that the boat has.

In most cases, a hydronic system is smaller than a water heater but can also be used as a portable water heater for the boat, especially if you need hot water onboard. It’s generally installed in the boat’s engine room and can use a coolant to disperse the heat. It can use the fuel coming from the vessel’s main fuel tank or a special fuel tank.

The main advantage of using a hydronic system is that there is no moisture in the boat as there are no cold spots. An appropriate hydronic system should have a maximum output of 25,000 BTUs per hour while using 6 amps of power or 0.22 gallons of fuel.

Heating Stoves

Although they’ve been used for centuries, heating stoves remain one of the most popular ways to heat a sailboat. They can burn kerosene, diesel, and propane or even use solid fuels such as charcoal or wood. Some heating stove systems use the direct draft system whereby fresh air is pumped through a fan while others use the natural draft system whereby air is naturally pumped through the combustion process.

Either way, a heating stove should be located in the saloon to radiate heat and circulate hot air. They should be equipped with a damper to help in controlling the airflow, as well as an exhaust pipe to withdraw the exhaust gases arising from the combustion.

Keep in mind that most heating stoves do not use electricity. Nonetheless, a heating stove with an output ranging between 7,000 and 9,700 BTUs should be ideal, especially if it consumes about one pound of propane in about 5.5 hours.

Engine Heat

This revolves around using the engine’s heated coolant fluid to transfer the warmth into your boat’s cabin. The coolant lines should be designed to run from the engine into the heat exchanger. There should also be a fan that blows the cabin air into the heat exchanger so that the air is heated. The hot air can then be piped out into the boat’s interior through several hoses.

Using this system is advantageous in the sense that it’s quiet and depends on the engine’s closed-circuit cooling system, so it doesn’t require radiators or additional water pipes. Unfortunately, this system only works when the engine is running and can be quite expensive in terms of the extra engine maintenance and the fuel consumed.

Forced-Air Systems

This is a simple method that revolves around a heater burning fuel to heat air. This hot air is then forced through ducts via a series of vents to the boat’s cabin. Forced-air heaters are typically situated in engine rooms and generally have exhaust pipes to discharge combusted fuel.

The system can be turned on either manually or through its thermostat so that air and fuel are drawn into the combustion chamber to ignite the fuel and air blend under a controlled flame. This heated air is then forced into the duct and spread throughout the boat’s cabin.

Electric Heaters

This can be a perfect option if you occasionally go out on the water during cold days. Electric heaters function much like normal home ACs and usually run on 12-volt power. They’re typically mounted inside the cabin and run on electricity generated from the boat’s batteries that heat the coils. A fan draws air over the coils where it’s heated before another fan blows it into the boat’s interior.

The main downside of this system is that it has to use electricity, which means that you cannot venture very far from the shores. This is because you’ll need to recharge the batteries now and then and this will run them down very quickly.

Reverse-Cycle Air-Conditioning Systems

This works in the same way as a normal household heat pump by running in the reverse cycle. They’re typically very expensive but can be a great way to extend your sailing in the winter, especially if you want to circumnavigate the globe.

Another good option of heating your sailboat is heading south to sunny places such as Florida during winter. In most cases, the south is a bit warmer than the north during winter and you can keep going until you find the hotter climes of the south.

Installing a heating system is a great way of making the cold nights and winter season more pleasant and attractive. There are, of course, several ways to ensure that your boat is heated and warm, especially if you do not want to put the boat into storage and get back to the normal life on dry land just because it’s winter!

So if you still want to make winter a perfect sailing season , keep your cabin cozy with the above-described heating systems.

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Better Sailing

Best Boat Heaters for Your Winter Trip

Planning on going for a fishing trip or sailing across the ocean this winter? Well, your cabin would definitely need some warming up. Not to worry! Here is our guide to buying the best boat heater for winter. These boat heaters are used to keep the insides of your boats warm, cozy, and largely unaffected by the harsh winter conditions of the open sea.

Having the best boat heater will not only help you comfortably enjoy the winter weather but will also let you extend the sailing season by cruising farther up north. It might not be easy to pick a boat heater out of all the options available. That is why we have compiled a list of the best boat heaters for winter and included in-depth reviews so you can pick one that suits your needs. First, let’s start with understanding the functionality of boat heaters.

How Do Boat Heaters Work?

There are different kinds of boat heaters that run on different kinds of fuels. The most recent ones consume diesel for combustion and use the power supply to run their fans and circulate hot air through the cabins.

The other types of fuel include LPG-propane or butane for combustion. These are considered more environment-friendly because they consume less energy. However, this type of boat heaters can use up a lot of gas in a short amount of time. Thus, before setting up sail, if you are using a gas-consuming boat heater, you need to ensure that you have a sufficient amount of cylinders available.

Basically, these boat heaters run on a remote diesel burner which produces hot, fresh air inside and circulates it by the help of a powerful fan through insulated ducting. Technology sure has come a very long way since the coal-fired stoves of the Titanic era!

There are also the simplest of them all but they only work if you have a reliable power source like a power outlet at the marina or a boat generator when out and about. Of course, I am talking about electric boat heaters. These are the easiest to set up, operate and the truth is that they are very effective in warming up your boat.

Also, most boats are easy to heat because spaces are small and they are made of fiberglass which provides excellent insulation against the cold weather.

Well, without any more musing, here is our list of the five best boat heaters for you to use on your next boating trip:

Best Boat Heaters for Winter

Dickinson marine newport propane fireplace – best overall boat heater.

If you are looking for the best boat heater out there then look no further than the Dickinson Marine Newport P9000 Propane Fireplace . This is a solution for people who sail/boat a lot during the winter and are looking for something permanent and serious. This boat operates with propane but the combustion process is completely isolated from the inside of the boat. It also has a built-in blower that provides good heat circulation throughout the boat; however, the blower requires additional power but it is not necessary for the heater to operate. This is a great heater but you do need to have it permanently installed and have holes drilled on your boat for the chimney.

If you looking to keep your boat warm and cozy during the winter seasons and for that fireplace ambiance to set the mood but you are not afraid of drilling holes in your boat, then you should definitely go with this boat heater.

• Very efficient
• Nice fireplace ambiance
• Built-in blower for hot air circulation
• Easy to install and easy to use
• Unaffected by motion or wind
• Variable heat output
• Low fuel consumption
• You have to drill holes in your boat
• It does not self-ignite
• No thermostat to regulate automatically

Note: You will also need a propane hose (make sure to buy one long enough for where you plan to place your propane tank), 11″ WC regulator and fittings are needed and sold separately

Mr. Heater Big Buddy Propane – Best Portable Boat Heater

Mr. Heater Big Buddy Propane Heater is ideal for boat spaces up to 450 square feet. It is safe for indoor and outdoor use, clean-burning, and nearly 100% efficient. It will automatically shuts-off if tipped over so it is perfect to use in sailboats that tipping over is common. Also, this heater has a built-in fan that increases its heating capacity. It fun operates with batteries so make sure you have some to make sure the unit is fully operational and operates at maximum efficiency. The fun increases the efficiency of the heater but is not necessary for operation. Also, a great feature of this boat portable heater is that you can use it with both a 1-lb propane bottle and a 20 or 30 lb propane tank.

• Indoor Safe
• Battery operated fan
• Push-button ignition
• Automatic turn-off if tipped over or oxygen level drops
• If used without the fan on high it can overheat and smell

Caframo Limited True North – Best Electric Heater For Boats

The Caframo Limited True North electric heater comes with a built-in adjustable thermostat that keeps will keep your boat cabin warm even on very cold nights. Great to use if you have a reliable power supply like a boat generator or you are docked in the marina and connected with their power outlet. This electric boat space heater comes with 5 power settings including steady heat to high output for maximum air circulation. Also, the heater shuts off when it reaches the desired temperature.

• Overheat protection
• 5-year warranty
• Anit-freeze Setting

Eberspacher Espar Airtronic 12V Boat Heater

This air heater comes in four different sizes which can effectively warm the interior of boats ranging from 13ft to 62ft. Each size of heater is suitable for a different size of boat.

The Airtronic Air Heater uses a flexible duct system to blow the warm air inside the cabin. This heater can be controlled through a thermostat. It also contains a vent that can be opened or closed to let more or less hot air pass through. Because the exhaust of this heater is situated above the waterline, it will work even if the boat is heeling. It is easily one of the best boat heaters available and one of the oldest brands in this industry. Not to forget, it is very reliable and steamed (pun intended!) as well. That being said, it is also priced above all the other boat heaters.

You can get it here .

Webasto Air Top

Webasto is a brand that frequently rivals Wallas and Eberspacher in the boat-heater industry. These boat heaters are produced in Germany. The products range from 2kW to 5.5kW in heat output. The Webasto Air Top initially consumes a lot of energy to ignite, but then consumption levels drop dramatically.

It provides a lot of control options such as fast heating, standard heating, eco mode, and ventilation. Webasto also maintains that its products do not require annual servicing. The frequency of servicing depends largely on the cleanliness of fuel rather than how much the heater has been used.

Wallas Boat Heater

Wallas is a brand from Finland and is considered to be best suited for northern boating conditions. These air heaters come in different output options ranging from 2kW to 4kW. They are said to be suitable for boats up to 50ft in size.

These heaters take up as much energy to start as the other brands mentioned above (Webasto and Airtronic). However, its sustaining power consumption is relatively lower as compared to the others. This is because Wallas fans need much less electricity to work. There is very little noise and combustion so the air and fuel are said to be precisely controlled when using this boat heater.

Its control options are elegant. The default mode uses a thermostat control with fast heating followed by steady temperature control. It can be changed to dryer mode, manual override, and ventilation only mode.

You can find it here

Planar Boat Heater

Planar is one of the trusted, upcoming names in the boat-heater market. These heaters are targeted towards the BC boats. Their diesel air heaters function in the same way as Airtronic’s or Wallas’. Since it is a newer brand as compared to the other two, it is also lesser in price. Planar first produced air heaters for trucks which gave them a loyal following in Canada. Now, they have started venturing into the boat heater industry as well and are considered reliable.

The company has introduced a new rotatory controller for using its options as well as made a remote-controlling app so the heater can be handled through a smartphone. Their products come in different sizes and different heat output choices.

You can also browse through other products within the diesel boat-heaters category to find out the one that is best suitable for your boat’s size and built.

Best Boat Heater For Winter – Conclusion

That was our list of the best heaters for boats. You can use any of these to keep your cabin warm and cozy while you enjoy the winter up north! We hope you find one that is most appropriate for your boat’s size and built and fits your budget. All in all, these are the best brands in the industry. However, whichever boat heater you choose, please make sure that you have sufficient fuel (diesel or any other gas) to cover the entirety of your trip. In fact, keep some extra. You never know when the water may turn its tide against you. It is always a good idea to be well prepared, especially for a cruising trip! While you’re there, you can catch a fish or two outside and then enjoy in your warm cabin!

Peter is the editor of Better Sailing. He has sailed for countless hours and has maintained his own boats and sailboats for years. After years of trial and error, he decided to start this website to share the knowledge.

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Marine boat heaters.

Stay cozy and warm on the water with our top-notch marine heaters. Whether you're cruising in a cabin cruiser, living in a houseboat, or enjoying the simplicity of a tiny home, our heaters are guaranteed to keep you snug and comfortable. Take your pick from our diverse range of diesel, propane, electric, or solid fuel options to find the ideal heater for your specific heating requirements. Not only will our boat and marine heaters keep you toasty, but they'll also shield your precious vessel from the chill of freezing temperatures. With a well-heated cabin, you can relish in the joys of the water all year round. Remember to consider the size of your cabin and the availability of fuel when selecting the perfect heater for your boat. If you find yourself in need of guidance in choosing the ideal boat heater, don't hesitate to reach out to us.

Stay Toasty Warm With a Boat Heater

When the temperature begins to work its way downward you may gaze uneasily outside, wondering how long before your favorite pastime becomes a bit chilly, to the point of discomfort. As the days progress and the digits continue their downward trend, you realize that your last day on the water could arrive at any time, which is sad, because you really love boating (and maybe fishing as well). But frigid cold? Not so much. But with the right boat heater, it doesn't have to be that way.

When we say boat heater, we're not talking about one of those little electric space heaters you bring from home and plug into an outlet in your saloon or stateroom. In fact, this is highly dangerous and should never be done! Household heaters are not ignition-protected, so unless you want explosions, property damage, mayhem, and possibly much worse, avoid these like plague-ridden pirates.

A boat heater is just that--a heater that is designed to generate enough consistent warm air to heat an entire cabin on a boat, not a room in a house. And even an electric heater designed for a boat should never be used in an engine compartment or anywhere explosive fumes could be present, unless it's specifically designed for the job, like this Caframo Bilgesafe Heater.

Now that we've cleared that up, let's take a look at why you need a boat heater, other than the most obvious reason, warmth. If the broad subject of warmth is narrowed down a bit, there are all sorts of reasons for wanting a reliable source of heat on a boat other than simply being able to go boating or fishing well past summer or perhaps even year-round, although these reasons alone are excellent ones. For instance, a good, safe heating system can keep the engine and critical components from freezing and damage; some boaters even use heat in lieu of winterizing, although depending on where you live you may not want to try this at home!

Warmth during the colder months--especially for those hardy souls we call liveaboards--is not the only time a quality boat heater will be highly appreciated. Springtime can be cold too, particularly early in the season and even more so in the morning and at night. And in the north, even summer nights and the wee hours of the morning are known to be chilly; even more so when you're sitting in a giant tub with little to no insulation, floating on water cold enough to cause hypothermia (even in summer). Along with a chilly breeze occasionally swishing around you for good measure.

Then there's the sheer pleasure of swimming, especially in the north! Just because the waters in the northern reaches can cause hypothermia in mid-August is no reason to avoid swimming in them, as long as you don't mind cold water. Although if you or the kids have indulged a tad too long and climbed out of the water with blue lips, this would be yet another occasion when the benefits of onboard heat are appreciated. But if polar bear plunges and cavorting in cold water like a family of seals isn't your style, don't forget that even top-of-the-water sports will get you wet enough to get mighty chilly on some days.

And then there's the bane of many a boater--the dreaded and most emphatically uninvited and unwanted fungi guests, Mold and Mildew. But no matter, they'll crash your party anyway, the first chance they get. They're horrendously ugly and they smell. In fact, their odor is sometimes so awful that if they're not permanently given the boot and/or manage to hide for a long enough period of time, they can cause your entire boat, and everything aboard, to reek like a rotted old pirate ship filled with rat nests.

But unlike in the days of Blackbeard, we now have the modern marine cabin heater to dry out the dampness and help keep the toxic Mold and Mildew cousins at bay. There are many types and styles to choose from that work well for either power or sailboats due to the wide variety of sizes, shapes, and heat output. These boat heaters generally heat via electricity, diesel, propane, forced air, or solid fuel and yes, they all have their pros and cons, which we'll discuss below.

Regardless of what type of heating system is chosen, they all require interior real estate. This can be painful to think about because in a small boat space is a precious commodity, but sacrificing some of it will be worth it in the long run. There is no quick and easy boat heater installation other than an electric heater (one designed for boats) that is plugged in while docked, or used if the vessel has an onboard generator. All others require holes through bulkheads, cabin tops, cabinets, or somewhere else. Then there is either ducting, piping, or wiring to contend with.

This sounds expensive and depending on what type of heat source you choose it can be, but if you are the DIY sort of person and can do at least some of the work yourself, or have skilled friends who will work for pizza and beer, you can save a lot of money. But once the installation is done the efforts are rewarding. Let's look at some of these boat heating methods and their attributes, as well as their advantages and disadvantages.

Hydronic Heater:  A couple of advantages of a hydronic heating system are its toasty heat and its simplicity--it utilizes heater hoses running from a freshwater-cooled engine (with a heat exchanger) to a  Heater Craft  heater or Red Dot heater, and then a switch for a fan is installed. That's pretty much all there is to it if your boat is small and there is only one cabin area to heat. For more than one, there would be a radiator in each cabin, through which hot water passes through. A Heater Craft heater kit such as the 200 Elite  or 300 Pro would be a great setup for multiple cabins. This heat is not as rapid as in the forced air system, but once the water has reached temperature the hydronic unit is often quieter. The disadvantage is that the engine must be running and warmed up for it to work.

Forced Air Boat Heater:  The advantage of a forced-air marine cabin heater, especially one that is heated via propane or diesel, is that the heat is almost instant. As soon as the unit starts operating it begins to produce warm, dry air and within a few minutes the cabin is warm. The disadvantage is that forced-air marine cabin heater typically does not allow zone heating, such as a hydronic system.

Dickinson Heater:  Another very popular option--for good reason--is installing a diesel, propane, or even solid fuel heater such as a  Dickinson heater  (which also doubles as a cozy fireplace ), or their forced air boat heater. Every Dickinson heater we carry is popular, as they are high-quality and do their job well. The benefits of a Dickinson diesel heater are economical, dry heat that doesn't require a diesel engine as long as you can mount a separate diesel tank somewhere aboard. The drawback may be the smell when the heater first starts. Propane heats quickly and has many fans, plus it doesn't smell bad. But some boaters point out what they sometimes call the "boom factor" as the reason they refuse to use propane. The good news is, Dickinson also makes a boat cabin heater that burns solid fuel like wood, charcoal, or coal. Perhaps the only drawback here--if it is a drawback--is that it is a very small stove designed to heat a very small space, for boats 20-25 feet, or tiny fishing huts.

There is no "One system fits all", as virtually every installation is somewhat customized to meet the needs of the individual boat owner and the boat itself; plus there's the cruising climate to consider. We not only have many different electric, propane, diesel, hydronic, and forced air boat heaters available to choose from, but also the various hardware, spare parts, and accessories you need to install and enjoy your new heating system. If you are considering raising your comfort level and extending your cruising by a few months or even year-round, or you're a very chilly liveaboard, see how Go2marine can help keep you toasty warm on your boat no matter the season.

HeatBreeze.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program. Heatbreeze.com is a participant in the eBay Partner Network program and may earn a commission when links are clicked.

10 Best Marine Boat Heater Reviews

Table of Contents

• Best Overall: Eberspacher Espar Airtronic Marine Diesel Heater (D2, D4, D5)
• Runner Up: Mr. Heater Big Buddy MH18B Portable Propane Heater
• Best Value: Caframo Limited True North Electric Space Heater

DuraHeat DH2304S Portable Kerosene Boat Heater

Chinese diesel heater, heater craft 203hc hydronic heater.

• Webasto FCF 12000 Reverse Cycle Heater & Air Conditioner

Dickinson Marine Cozy Cabin Propane Heater

Dickinson marine diesel heater (newport, alaska), dickinson marine 00-newsf newport solid fuel heater.

• Buying Guide

With so many marine heaters to choose from, finding the right one for your boat can be challenging. That’s why we put together this list of our top ten. We considered price, fuel type, and heat output during our review process. Let’s get to it.

Eberspacher Espar Airtronic Marine Diesel Heater (D2, D4, D5)

Often the go-to heater for campervan conversions, the Espar forced air diesel heater now comes in a marine kit that makes boat installation much easier.

The D2, D4, and D5 models are essentially the same heater but have different heat outputs that are meant for different sized boats. The D2 being the smallest of the three, followed by the D4, and finally the D5 producing the most amount of BTUs and meant for larger vessels.

With easy-to-follow instructions and high quality parts, installation is simple and reliable. The heater’s fuel line connects directly to your boat’s diesel tank and its compact size allows it to be mounted almost anywhere.

It has automatic stepless heating and, once the desired temperature is set with the digital controller, takes just three minutes to start producing warm air. It’s an easy, hands-off approach to keeping your boat cabin warm.

Heater Type: Forced Air (Diesel) Heat Output: 7,500 BTU (D2), 13,650 BTU (D4), 18,800 BTU (D5) Heating Area: 470 sq.ft.

Mr. Heater Big Buddy MH18B Portable Propane Heater

The Mr. Heater Big Buddy is the best portable propane heater on the market. It’s small, compact, and has two hookups on each side for 1 lb propane tanks, allowing you to move the heater around with ease. If you’d rather connect it to a larger propane tank then you’ll want to use the compatible 10’ hose which also eliminates the need for a fuel filter.

There are three heat settings, the highest of which puts out 18,000 BTUs and can heat a 450 sq/ft area with ease. When equipped with two one-pound tanks, the heater will last anywhere between 3-12 hours depending on the heat output setting. This translates to about 6-24 hours on a single gallon of propane.

For simplicity, it has a single control knob which acts as a non-electric ignition switch as well as a temperature controller. Once lit, it gets hot very quickly and the integrated fan helps circulate warm air throughout the cabin.

The Big Buddy is also one of the safest heaters available. It has an automatic low oxygen shut-off system that shuts the heater down if there is a dangerously low amount of oxygen in the air. It also has an accidental tip over switch that turns off the heater if it’s not sitting upright.

Note: Due to tariff requirements, the fan has been removed on some models of the MH18B for residents of Canada and the state of Massachusetts. Please check with the seller before purchasing.

Heater Type: Propane Heat Output: 18,000 BTU Heating Area: 450 sq/ft

Caframo Limited True North Electric Space Heater

The low profile Caframo 1500W electric heater is built with a solid steel housing for added durability and moisture protection. It features a heat/fan output dial as well as a temperature dial. The heater will automatically cycle through an on/off state to maintain the set room temperature. It even has an anti-freeze setting that automatically kicks in at 38ºF.

It uses a standard 120V plug, which means that you’ll either need to be docked or using an on-board inverter generator to produce enough electricity to run it. It doesn’t put out a ton of heat, but it gets the chill out of your room without having an open fire or a tank full of fuel.

Heater Type: Electric Heat Output: 5,200 BTU Heating Area: 130 sq/ft

The DuraHeat runs on kerosene and produces a whopping 23,800 BTUs – that’s enough to heat 600 sq/ft! Your boat cabin probably isn’t that big, but with that many BTUs you can crank it to full blast on a chilly night and heat a room very quickly.

It features a wick knob that lets you manually adjust the height of the wick without having to open up the heater. It can either be lit with the electric ignition switch, which runs on C batteries, or it can be lit with a match or lighter through the small opening in the front. Just be sure to burn type 1-k (K1) kerosene. It’s the purest grade of kerosene, it has no scent, and it’s safe to burn indoors.

With an integrated 1.9 gallon tank, the DuraHeat can last up to 12 hours on a single tank of fuel. That means you won’t be getting up in the middle of the night to add fuel like you would be with other marine heaters.

As if that weren’t enough, it’s also portable. You can move it to any area of the boat you prefer and, when the season’s over, you can store it in your house for a power outage emergency.

Heater Type: Kerosene Heat Output: 23,800 BTU Heating Area: 600 sq/ft

If you’re dead-set on a forced air heater but don’t want to pay an arm and a leg, then you may want to look into a Chinese diesel heater. They’re an affordable alternative to the Webasto and Espar heaters at around one tenth the cost.

This is an all-in-one floor mounted unit with an attached fuel tank. With a heat output of over 17,000 BTUs, it’s capable of heating a 425 sq/ft area.

If you plan on staying below 5,000 ft and don’t need to heat such a large area then we recommend the 3kw diesel heater by HappyBuy. It’s more compact and can be installed in tighter areas.

We recently reviewed the best forced air diesel heaters and found that while Chinese diesel heaters are an affordable alternative to Webasto and Espar heaters, they’re priced that way for a reason.

They’re able to produce such affordable heaters because they use cheap parts. This can cause some parts to break or not fit together correctly, which can be a bit of a hastle.

We’re not saying to avoid diesel heaters from China. In fact, many people have never had issues with them, but it’s important to know the risks.

Heater Type: Forced Air Heat Output: 17,060 BTU Heating Area: 425 sq/ft

The Heater Craft 203HC is a hydronic heater that’s compatible with I/O and inboard engines with either a closed freshwater or open raw-water cooling system. It’s made in the USA with durable powder coated materials that withstands moisture and prevents corrosion. It comes with a hot tube and euro-style vent, as well as a 25’ hose for easy installation.

The best feature of the Heater Craft is that it generates an enormous amount of heat (28,000 BTU) which is capable of heating a 700 sq/ft area. Once installed, you’ll never have to worry about uneven heating again.

Heater Type: Hydronic Heat Output: 28,000 BTU Heating Area: 700 sq/ft

Webasto FCF 12000 Reverse Cycle Heater & Air Conditioner

The Webasto FCF 12000 is a 12,000 BTU air conditioner with a reverse cycle for heating. It cools your cabin down on blistering hot days and warms your cabin up well into the colder months. It also has a dehumidifier setting to remove unwanted moisture.

It’s built with an ultra-quiet compressor that’s been carefully mounted to reduce noise and vibration, allowing for a relaxing night’s sleep. The baked-on enamel finish prevents corrosion from seawater and the powerful blower can handle multiple vents. It also comes with a digital controller so you can monitor and adjust the indoor climate to your liking.

It’s more expensive than the other heaters, but it’s an all-in-one heating and cooling system that ensures you’re comfortable no matter where your boat may take you.

Heater Type: Heater & Air Conditioner Combo Heat Output: 12,000 BTU Heating Area: 300 sq/ft

The Dickinson (formerly Sig Marine) Cozy Cabin is a bulkhead mounted propane heater with a 5,000 BTU rating that’s capable of heating a boat cabin up to 125 sq/ft. The brass base, stainless steel body, and cast iron top are durable and built to withstand moisture.

The open flame design gives it the feel of a fireplace and allows for lighting with the ignition switch or with a match. It runs on low-pressure propane so you may need to purchase a low pressure regulator hose . You’ll also need to pick up a 1” stainless steel exhaust pipe , as the unit does not ship with one.

It’s quiet, small, and perfect for heating a small boat. We recommend installing a small fan next to the Cozy Cabin to help circulate air.

Heater Type: Propane Heat Output: 5,000 BTU Heating Area: 125 sq/ft

Dickinson Marine offers two variants of their diesel heater: the bulkhead-mounted Newport (00-NEW) model and the floor-mounted Alaska (00-ALA) model. They’re essentially the same heater but with different mounting options.

They’re small, economical heaters that use just 3.2 gallons of fuel per 24 hours on their highest setting and can heat up to 405 sq/ft. Not only can it burn diesel, but it can be re-calibrated for kerosene or stove oil, giving you plenty of options for heating your vessel.

Built with simple yet reliable components like a gravity feed oil metering valve to a vaporizing oil burner, these heaters produce a clean burn that’s beautiful to look at through the viewable combustion chamber. Coupled with a steady dry heat, they mimic a warm and cozy fireplace.

Heater Type: Diesel Heat Output: 16,250 BTU Heating Area: 405 sq/ft

The Dickinson Newport is a small stainless steel solid fuel stove that can heat up to 200 sq/ft of cabin space by burning wood, presto logs, charcoal briquettes, or coal.

It has a sliding viewing window so you can keep an eye on your fuel, as well as a removable ash tray for easy cleaning. The damper knob on the ash tray allows you to control the air flow to the fire in order to adjust how hot the fire burns.

Installing the stove is easy since you have the option of installing it to a hearth on the floor or to a bulkhead. It requires a 2” air gap from the wall and a 3” diameter vertical exhaust pipe.

While it’s capable of burning wood and presto logs, we found that wood-based fuel burns too fast. Charcoal briquettes and coal are a much better option, as they burn slower and can last through the night.

Heater Type: Solid Fuel Heat Output: 8,000 BTU Heating Area: 200 sq/ft

How To Find The Best Boat Heater – Buying Guide

There are four main types of heaters to choose from to warm your boat: forced air, hydronic, electric, and fuel. Let’s go over each of them below.

1. Forced Air

Forced air heaters are typically installed in the engine room and operate on diesel fuel. An integrated sensor reads the interior temperature and, if it’s lower than the desired temperature, sends a mixture of diesel and air to the combustion chamber where it combusts and heats the heat exchanger. The combustion exhaust is ducted outside while the warm air from the heat exchanger is ducted to the cabin with the help of a 12v fan.

2. Hydronic

Powered by diesel from your boat’s main tank, hydronic heaters pump hot water through a series of tubing to radiators on the boat. Heat is transferred from the hot water to the radiator, warming the cabin.

On some units, an integrated fan helps circulate the air for even heating. If integrated with the engine’s cooling system, the heater uses the engine’s coolant to heat the radiators. It can also run while the engine is off, allowing the heater to warm the engine in extremely cold temperatures.

3. Electric

Electric boat heaters are best suited for boats with an AC generator or when docked and connected to shore power. They essentially function as small space heaters for your cabin. The unit’s heat exchanger warms cabin air while the fan circulates it around the room.

We don’t recommend using an electric heater without a generator. Since you’d need to use your boat’s battery, you’d only be able to use a small 12v heater with the engine running. Unfortunately, 12v heaters don’t produce enough heat and you’d drain the battery if you ran it with the engine off.

Perhaps the most popular way to heat a boat is with a fuel-burning stove. They burn either liquid propane, diesel, kerosene, or solid fuels like wood or charcoal. They’re either floor mounted or bulkhead mounted and require a vertical stovepipe exhaust to the outside of the ship. Most solid fuel stoves have a damper for airflow, allowing you to control how hot the fire gets and how much fuel it consumes.

It’s important to note that not all solid fuel stoves are rated for charcoal, as it burns too hot. The nice thing about diesel and propane stoves is that they can be connected directly to your boat’s fuel tank or propane source. You won’t have to refill the stove like you would with solid fuels.

Why Should I Heat My Boat?

Marine heaters allow you to extend the boating season into the colder months. Without being dependent on the weather, you have the freedom to travel wherever and whenever you want. They’re also a necessity for liveaboards during the winter. No one ever said boating had to be uncomfortable!

What Are BTUs And How Many Do I Need?

BTU stands for British Thermal Unit, which is a measurement of thermal energy. To get a rough estimate of how many BTUs you’ll need, multiply the square footage of an area by 40 BTUs. For example, a 100 sq/ft room would require around 4,000 BTUs to heat.

How Do I Keep My Boat Warm In The Winter?

In addition to investing in a boat cabin heater, the number one thing you can do to keep your boat warm in the winter is to properly insulate it with a foil barrier and closed-cell foam . Not only will it keep warm air in and cold air out, but with the help of a dehumidifier it will prevent mold and mildew from forming inside the cabin.

Another culprit for chilly cabins are air drafts. Be sure to find all the spots where air is coming into your cabin and either block them or seal them up. One spot you may not think to look are the sinks in the head and galley. They can act as a wind tunnel and suck out your cabin’s warm air.

Carbon monoxide detectors, smoke alarms, and fire extinguishers are essential to have on board your sailboat or motorboat, especially when using a heater. When installed correctly with proper ventilation, marine heaters are a safe way to stay warm, but installation mistakes can still happen so it’s better to be prepared.

It’s also important to never leave your heater unattended. There are countless stories of owners wet storing their boats with a space heater running 24/7, only to have it malfunction and catch not just their boat on fire, but neighboring boats as well. This is especially dangerous for any liveaboards nearby.

We hope that this review has helped you find the best marine heater. As you can see, there are plenty to choose from, each with their own unique features.

The best overall is the Espar series (ebay link) . It has automatic stepless heating, it has a digital controller, and installation is a breeze.

The next best thing is the Mr. Heater Big Buddy . It’s small and portable, it’s compatible with large propane tanks, and it puts out 18,000 BTU.

The best bang for your buck is the Caframo space heater . It’s made of durable steel, it has a low profile design, and it has stepless heating with automatic temperature control.

If none of these boat heaters fit your needs, then we also gave you seven great alternatives to choose from. Thanks for reading and stay warm out there!

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The Ultimate Guide to Cabin Heaters and How to Choose the Right Heater

Post Summary: The best resource for heating your cabin this winter, with tips on finding the best cabin heater for your space (and we also added boat cabin heaters).

As the colder months approach , cabin owners know all too well the importance of finding an effective and reliable cabin heater. Whether you have a small cabin nestled in the woods or a boat cabin by the shore, staying warm and comfortable during winter is a top priority. In this blog post, we’ll explore various cabin heating methods and highlight the best ways to keep your living space warm and cozy.

If you were wondering, we’ve owned our little cabin for nearly two years . Before that, I grew up at the cottage, and I remember spending many winters bundled up by the space heaters trying to keep my toes warm.

This article is for you if you are searching for heating methods and detailed explanations of each method with our favorite, tried, and true heaters from Amazon.

Keep reading to find out the best cabin heater for your space.

The Best Cabin Heater for Your Home

Quick guide to cabin heaters.

• Best Cabin Heater Overall – Mr. Heater Indoor Safe Portable Propane Heater
• Most Reliable Cabin Heater – Wood Burning Stove – 2020 EPA Certified
• Best Cabin Heater for Small Spaces – Portable Electric Heater
• Best Boat Cabin Heater – Caframo Boat Heater

Wood Stoves

Wood stoves have been a tried-and-true heating method for cabins for generations. They provide a rustic charm and can generate ample heat. However, they do require a lot of work in terms of sourcing and splitting wood and maintaining the stove. Proper ventilation systems and adequate clearances from the cabin roof and walls are crucial to prevent fire hazards.

Ashley Hearth Wood Stove

The Ashley Hearth AW1120E-P 1,200 Sq. can fit logs up to 18 inches in length. The firebrick lined for long life and combustion efficiency while large ash pan with brushed nickel handle makes cleanup easy

Check it out >

Of course, wood stoves have been a popular choice for cabin heating for many years, and they come with their own set of pros and cons. Let’s explore these aspects in detail:

1. Cost-Effective Heating

Wood is often readily available in wooded areas, making it a cost-effective fuel source. If you can source your firewood, heating with a wood stove can be much cheaper than other heating methods.

2. Independence from Utility Services

Wood stoves provide off-grid heating, making them an excellent choice for remote cabins that may not have access to electricity or natural gas. This independence ensures you can stay warm even in the most secluded locations.

3. Cozy and Ambiance

Wood stoves create a warm and cozy ambiance in the cabin. The sight and sound of crackling wood on the stove add to the overall charm of the living space, making it a welcoming and romantic atmosphere.

4. Reliable Heat Source:

Wood stoves are known for their reliability. They can provide consistent heat even during power outages, making them a dependable choice for keeping your cabin warm in all seasons.

5. Environmentally Friendly:

 Burning wood is considered a carbon-neutral energy source because the carbon dioxide released during combustion is roughly equal to the amount absorbed by the trees during their growth. If you use sustainable wood sources, it can be an environmentally responsible heating option.

1. Labour-Intensive

 One of the most significant drawbacks of wood stoves is the labor required to maintain them. This includes chopping, splitting, and storing firewood, as well as regularly cleaning the stove and chimney to prevent creosote buildup and fire hazards.

2. Safety Concerns

Improperly installed or used wood stoves can pose safety risks. Carbon monoxide poisoning, chimney fires, and the risk of burns are all concerns if not used with caution and maintained properly.

3. Limited Heat Control

Wood stoves provide radiant heat, which can make it challenging to control and distribute heat evenly throughout the cabin. The temperature may vary from room to room, and it can be difficult to adjust quickly.

4. Space Requirements

Wood stoves require adequate clearances from walls and combustible materials, which can limit their placement within a cabin. This can affect the layout and design of your living space.

5. Air Quality

So, our take is that wood stoves have their merits as cabin heaters, offering cost-effective and reliable heating with a cozy atmosphere. However, they also come with challenges related to maintenance, safety, and air quality. Whether a wood stove is the right choice for your cabin depends on your preferences, location, and willingness to commit to the necessary upkeep and safety measures.

OUR TAKE:  While burning wood can be environmentally friendly when done correctly, it can also contribute to air pollution if not managed properly. Old or inefficient wood stoves may produce more particulate matter and emissions.

Electric Heaters

Electric heaters offer a convenient and portable heating solution. You can plug them into a power cord or rely on solar power if you have an off-grid cabin. Ceramic heaters, in particular, are known for their efficiency in heating small spaces and are a good idea for chilly drafts.

Portable Electric Indoor Space Heater

Small but mighty! We use this in our cabin, and we really enjoy it. This portable mini heater with a built in handle is easy to carry. It has an adjustable thermostat for comfortable warmth, ideal for small areas. The length of the cord is about 6ft to allow for optimal heat.

1. Ease of Use 

Electric heaters are incredibly easy to use. You simply plug them into an electrical outlet, set the desired temperature, and they start warming the room. There’s no need to deal with fuel, firewood, or complicated installations.

2. Efficiency

Modern electric heaters are designed to be highly efficient, converting nearly all the electricity they consume into heat. This means you get a reliable and consistent source of warmth without energy waste.

Electric heaters are generally considered safe. They don’t emit harmful fumes or require ventilation systems like some other heating methods. Many models come with safety features such as tip-over protection and overheat protection.

4. Portability

Electric heaters are typically compact and portable, making them versatile for heating different areas of the cabin as needed. You can easily move them from room to room, and some even come with built-in wheels.

5. Cost-Effective Options

There is a wide range of electric heater models available, including affordable options that can fit most budgets. Additionally, some models offer energy-saving features, helping to keep electricity bills manageable.

1. Operating Cost

While electric heaters can be efficient, the cost of electricity can add up, especially during prolonged use in the winter months. The ongoing operational cost can be higher compared to other heating methods, such as wood stoves.

2. Limited Heating Capacity

Electric heaters may struggle to provide sufficient warmth in larger cabins or during extremely cold weather. You may need multiple heaters to adequately heat larger living spaces.

3. Dependency on Electricity

Electric heaters rely entirely on electricity, which can be a disadvantage during power outages. If your cabin is in an area prone to electrical disruptions, you might need a backup heating source.

Electric heaters can dry out the air in the cabin, potentially leading to discomfort, dry skin, and respiratory issues. Using a humidifier alongside an electric heater can help mitigate this problem.

5. Environmental Impact

While electric heaters themselves produce no direct emissions, the source of your electricity matters. If your electricity comes from fossil fuels, the environmental impact can be significant. Using renewable energy sources or improving the energy efficiency of your cabin can mitigate this issue.

OUR TAKE:  Our take on electric heaters is that they offer convenience, ease of use, and safety as cabin heaters. They are particularly well-suited for smaller cabins or as supplemental heating sources. However, the cost of electricity and the potential limitations in heating capacity should be considered, especially for larger or more remote cabins. Ultimately, the choice of the best cabin heater depends on your specific needs, cabin size, climate, and budget.

Propane Heaters

Propane heaters, including portable propane heaters, are an excellent choice for cabin heating. They are easy to use and provide consistent warmth. Be sure to have a propane tank on hand, and remember to follow safety guidelines to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning. 

Mr. Heater Propane Heater

Convenient top-mounted comfort control adjustable thermostat, with a battery-operated electronic ignition and comes with a wall mounting kit.

1. Portability:

Propane heaters are typically lightweight and portable, making them easy to move around the cabin as needed. This flexibility allows you to concentrate heat in specific areas or rooms.

2. Independence from Electricity:

Propane heaters don’t rely on electricity to operate, which is particularly beneficial for off-grid cabins. They can provide heat even when there’s no electrical power, ensuring you stay warm in remote locations.

3. Efficient Heat Output:

Propane heaters are known for their high heat output. They can quickly and efficiently warm up a space, making them a suitable choice for cabins in cold climates.

4. Versatility:

Propane heaters come in various types, including wall-mounted, floor-standing, and portable models. This versatility allows you to choose the most suitable option for your cabin layout and heating needs.

5. Cost-Effective Fuel:

Propane is a cost-effective fuel source, especially when compared to electricity in some regions. The cost of propane can be lower, making it a budget-friendly option for heating.

1. Fuel Storage:

Propane heaters require a propane tank or cylinder for fuel storage. You need to ensure you have an adequate supply of propane on hand, and tanks may need to be refilled or replaced periodically.

2. Indoor Air Quality:

Propane heaters can emit carbon monoxide (CO) and other combustion byproducts. Adequate ventilation and the use of propane heaters with built-in safety features, such as oxygen depletion sensors (ODS), are essential to prevent CO buildup and ensure indoor air quality.

3. Safety Concerns:

Propane heaters come with safety considerations, including the risk of fire or explosion if not used and maintained correctly. Regular maintenance, including checking for leaks and ensuring proper installation, is crucial.

4. Limited Run Time:

Propane heaters have a limited run time based on the capacity of the propane tank. You may need to monitor and refill tanks more frequently during extended cold spells, which can be inconvenient.

5. Initial Installation Cost:

While propane heaters can be cost-effective in the long run, the initial installation cost may be higher compared to some electric heaters or wood stoves. This includes purchasing the heater and propane tank(s).

6. Environmental Impact:

Propane is a fossil fuel, and its combustion does produce CO2 emissions. While propane heaters are relatively efficient, they are not as environmentally friendly as some renewable heating options.

Our Take:  Propane heaters offer efficient and portable heating solutions, making them a popular choice for cabin heating, especially in off-grid or remote locations. However, they require proper safety precautions, ventilation, and ongoing fuel management. The choice of whether propane heaters are the best option for your cabin depends on factors such as your heating needs, location, safety considerations, and budget.

Direct Vent Heaters

Direct vent heaters, such as  Mr. Heater , are designed to be highly efficient and safe. They draw in outside air for combustion and vent exhaust gases outside, reducing the risk of carbon monoxide buildup. They are also a great option for boat cabin heaters when shore power is available.

1. Efficient Heating:

Direct vent heaters are highly efficient, as they draw in outside air for combustion and vent exhaust gases directly outside. This means minimal heat loss and optimal heating efficiency.

Direct vent heaters are among the safest heating options. They are sealed combustion units that prevent indoor air from mixing with combustion gases, reducing the risk of carbon monoxide (CO) poisoning.

3. No Need for a Chimney:

Unlike traditional wood stoves or fireplaces, direct vent heaters do not require a chimney or complex ventilation system. This simplifies installation and reduces maintenance.

Direct vent heaters come in various sizes and styles, making them suitable for different cabin sizes and aesthetics. You can choose wall-mounted or floor-standing models to fit your space.

5. Zone Heating:

Direct vent heaters allow for zone heating, which means you can selectively heat specific areas of the cabin, reducing energy consumption and heating costs.

6. Independence from Electricity:

Many direct vent heaters operate without electricity, making them a dependable choice for off-grid cabins or areas prone to power outages.

1. Initial Cost:

Direct vent heaters typically have a higher upfront cost compared to some other heating options. This includes the purchase of the heater itself and installation expenses.

2. Limited Heating Capacity:

Direct vent heaters may have limitations in terms of the amount of space they can effectively heat. Larger cabins may require multiple units, which can increase both installation and operating costs.

3. Venting Requirements:

While direct vent heaters simplify ventilation compared to traditional chimneys, they still require proper venting through an exterior wall. This can add complexity to the installation process.

4. Maintenance:

Like any heating system, direct vent heaters require regular maintenance, including cleaning the combustion chamber, checking for leaks, and replacing parts as needed.

5. Aesthetic Considerations:

Some people may find the appearance of direct vent heaters less appealing compared to traditional wood stoves or fireplaces, which can be a factor in cabin design and ambiance.

6. Fuel Source:

Direct vent heaters are available for various fuel sources, including natural gas, propane, or even pellet fuel. The availability of the chosen fuel source may be limited based on your cabin’s location.

Conclusion:  In summary, direct vent heaters offer efficient and safe heating solutions, making them an excellent choice for cabin heating, particularly in terms of safety and energy efficiency. However, they may come with a higher initial cost and limitations in terms of heating capacity. The decision to use direct vent heaters depends on factors such as your cabin size, heating needs, safety concerns, and budget.

Natural Gas Heaters

If your cabin is equipped with a natural gas supply, you may consider a natural gas heater. They can provide reliable and consistent heating with a direct connection to your gas line.

Mr. Heater Natural Gas Heater

Wi-Fi enabled makes it possible for you to control the temperature from your phone! Tip-over-safe shut off, and mount to the wall to save space.

1. Cost-Effective:

Natural gas is often more cost-effective than electricity or other fuel sources. It typically offers lower heating costs, making it a budget-friendly option.

2. High Efficiency:

Natural gas heaters are known for their high energy efficiency, converting a significant portion of the gas into usable heat. This efficiency can help lower heating bills.

3. Continuous Supply:

Natural gas is delivered through pipelines, providing a continuous supply of fuel. You don’t need to worry about running out of fuel, as you might with propane or other fuel types.

4. Convenience:

Natural gas heaters are convenient to use. They can be easily controlled with a thermostat, allowing you to maintain a consistent and comfortable temperature in your cabin.

5. Clean Burning:

Natural gas is considered a cleaner-burning fuel compared to some other options like wood or oil. It produces fewer emissions and pollutants, contributing to better indoor air quality.

6. Reliability:

Natural gas heaters are reliable and can provide consistent heat even during power outages, assuming your heating system has a backup power source.

7. Low Maintenance:

Natural gas heaters typically require less maintenance compared to wood stoves or other combustion-based heating systems. This can save you time and effort.

1. Infrastructure Dependency:

You must have access to a natural gas supply in your area to use natural gas heaters. Remote or off-grid cabins may not have this option.

2. Installation Costs:

The initial installation of a natural gas heating system can be relatively expensive, especially if your cabin does not already have natural gas infrastructure in place.

3. Limited Portability:

Natural gas heaters are not portable, and their placement is fixed. You can’t move them around the cabin as you would with some electric or propane heaters.

4. Environmental Impact:

While natural gas is cleaner burning than some fuels, it is still a fossil fuel that contributes to carbon emissions. It may not be the most environmentally friendly heating option.

5. Safety Concerns:

Natural gas heaters require proper installation and regular maintenance to ensure safe operation. Gas leaks and carbon monoxide risks can pose safety concerns if not managed correctly.

6. Limited Fuel Source Options:

Natural gas heaters are designed specifically for natural gas, so you may not have flexibility in choosing alternative fuels in the event of supply disruptions.

Conclusion:  Natural gas heaters offer cost-effective and efficient heating solutions, particularly in areas with access to natural gas infrastructure. However, their installation costs and dependence on gas infrastructure should be considered. The choice to use natural gas heaters as the best cabin heaters depends on factors such as your cabin’s location, budget, and access to natural gas supply.

Diesel Heaters

For cabins with a liquid-cooled engine or access to diesel fuel, diesel heaters are a long-run solution. They are efficient and can provide hot water in addition to cabin heating.

Diesel Heater All-in-One

The diesel heater is all in one and requires no installation, making it perfect for outdoor adventures like camping. The diesel air heater features a high safety system, allowing for hassle-free usage in various environments such as cars, RVs, ships, and indoors.

Check it out >

1. High Efficiency:

Diesel heaters are known for their high energy efficiency, converting a significant portion of diesel fuel into usable heat. This efficiency helps reduce heating costs.

 Diesel heaters do not rely on electricity to operate, making them a dependable heating source for off-grid cabins or areas with frequent power outages.

3. Continuous Fuel Supply:

Diesel fuel is typically readily available, and you can store a large quantity for extended use. This ensures a continuous supply of fuel, reducing the need for frequent refueling.

4. Powerful Heating Capacity:

Diesel heaters can provide powerful and rapid heating, making them suitable for quickly warming up a cabin, even in cold climates.

5. Variety of Options:

Diesel heaters come in various sizes and types, including forced air heaters and hydronic (hot water) heaters. This allows you to choose the most suitable option for your cabin’s heating needs.

6. Clean Burning:

Modern diesel heaters are designed to burn diesel fuel efficiently and cleanly, resulting in lower emissions and better indoor air quality compared to older models.

The initial cost of purchasing and installing a diesel heater can be relatively high, depending on the size and type of heater. This can be a barrier for some cabin owners.

2. Maintenance Requirements:

Diesel heaters require regular maintenance, including cleaning, fuel filter changes, and occasional servicing to ensure safe and efficient operation.

3. Fuel Storage and Handling:

Storing diesel fuel safely can be a challenge, as it requires proper containers and ventilation. Handling and refueling with diesel fuel can be messy and may require extra precautions.

Some diesel heaters can be noisy, particularly forced air models, which can be a drawback if you prefer a quieter cabin environment.

5. Environmental Impact:

While diesel heaters are efficient, burning diesel fuel does produce carbon emissions, which can contribute to air pollution and climate change. This may not be the most environmentally friendly option.

6. Safety Concerns:

Diesel heaters, like other combustion-based heating systems, require proper installation and maintenance to ensure safety. Risk factors include fuel leaks, carbon monoxide, and fire hazards.

Conclusion: Diesel heaters offer powerful and efficient heating solutions, making them a suitable choice for cabin heating, especially in remote or off-grid locations. However, their initial cost, maintenance requirements, and environmental impact should be considered. The decision to use diesel heaters as the best cabin heaters depends on factors such as your cabin’s location, heating needs, budget, and access to diesel fuel.

Solar-Powered Heaters

For those looking for sustainable options, solar-powered heaters are a great thing. They use solar panels to generate electricity, which can then be used to power electric heaters or other heating methods, depending on your setup.

Solar Panel Kit

This solar panel kit from Amazon has everything you need to get started. It’s safe, intuitive, and reliable.

1. Environmentally Friendly:

Solar-powered heaters are highly eco-friendly, as they utilize renewable solar energy, reducing greenhouse gas emissions and environmental impact.

2. Cost Savings:

Once installed, solar-powered heaters have minimal operational costs since they rely on free solar energy. This can result in significant long-term savings on heating bills.

3. Energy Independence:

Solar-powered heaters provide energy independence, reducing reliance on traditional heating fuels like propane, natural gas, or electricity. This can be especially advantageous for off-grid cabins.

4. Low Maintenance:

Solar heaters have relatively low maintenance requirements. They typically consist of durable components with few moving parts, reducing the need for regular servicing.

5. Silent Operation:

Solar heaters operate silently, creating a peaceful and quiet cabin environment without the noise associated with some other heating systems.

6. Government Incentives:

Depending on your location, there may be government incentives, tax credits, or rebates available for installing solar-powered heating systems, making them more affordable.

The upfront cost of purchasing and installing solar-powered heating systems can be relatively high. This includes solar panels, inverters, and other components.

2. Weather Dependence:

Solar heaters are dependent on sunlight, which means their effectiveness can be reduced on cloudy or overcast days and during the nighttime. Backup heating may be needed in such situations.

3. Space Requirements:

Solar panels require adequate space for installation, either on the roof of the cabin or in a nearby location with good sun exposure. This may not be feasible for all cabins.

4. Energy Storage:

To maintain heat during cloudy days or at night, you may need an energy storage solution, such as batteries. These storage systems can add to the overall cost.

5. Installation Complexity:

Proper installation of solar heating systems may require professional expertise, which can add to the overall installation cost.

6. Limited Heating Capacity:

Solar-powered heaters may not provide enough heat for larger cabins or in extremely cold climates, necessitating additional heating sources.

Conclusion:  Solar-powered heaters offer sustainable and energy-efficient heating solutions, making them an attractive choice for cabin owners who prioritize environmental responsibility and long-term cost savings. However, their initial cost, weather dependency, and space requirements should be considered. The suitability of solar-powered heaters as the best cabin heaters depends on factors such as your cabin’s location, climate, budget, and willingness to invest in renewable energy solutions.

Kerosene Heaters

Kerosene heaters are another option, but they require proper ventilation and caution to prevent carbon monoxide buildup. Always use them in well-ventilated areas.

KeroHeat Indoor/Outdoor Heater

This kerosene heater is a great option and works perfectly indoors as it works outdoors. It also has an automatic shut-off and heat zones of up to 900 square feet.

Kerosene heaters are typically lightweight and portable, making them easy to move around the cabin as needed. This flexibility allows you to concentrate heat in specific areas or rooms.

Kerosene heaters do not rely on electricity to operate, making them a dependable heating source for off-grid cabins or areas with frequent power outages.

3. Efficient Heating:

Kerosene heaters can provide efficient and rapid heating, making them suitable for quickly warming up a cabin, even in cold climates.

4. Long Burn Time:

A single tank of kerosene can provide extended burn times, reducing the need for frequent refueling compared to some other portable heaters.

Kerosene is often more cost-effective than electricity or propane. It typically offers lower heating costs, making it a budget-friendly option.

6. Reliable Ignition:

Kerosene heaters usually have reliable ignition systems, reducing the risk of ignition failures in cold or harsh conditions.

1. Indoor Air Quality:

Kerosene heaters can emit fumes and combustion byproducts that may affect indoor air quality. Adequate ventilation is essential to prevent exposure to potentially harmful substances.

2. Safety Concerns:

Kerosene heaters come with safety considerations, including the risk of fire or combustion-related accidents. Proper installation, operation, and maintenance are crucial to ensure safety.

Storing kerosene safely can be a challenge, as it requires proper containers and ventilation. Handling and refueling with kerosene can be messy and may require extra precautions.

Some kerosene heaters can be noisy, particularly during startup and operation, which can be a drawback if you prefer a quieter cabin environment.

Kerosene heaters can produce an odor during operation, which some people find unpleasant. Adequate ventilation can help mitigate this issue.

Kerosene heaters may have limitations in terms of the amount of space they can effectively heat. Larger cabins may require multiple units, which can increase both installation and operating costs.

7. Environmental Impact:

Burning kerosene produces carbon emissions, contributing to air pollution and climate change. It may not be the most environmentally friendly heating option.

Conclusion:  kerosene heaters offer portable and cost-effective heating solutions, making them a suitable choice for cabin heating, especially in off-grid or remote locations. However, their potential impact on indoor air quality, safety considerations, and environmental concerns should be carefully weighed against their benefits. The decision to use kerosene heaters as the best cabin heaters depends on factors such as your cabin’s location, heating needs, budget, and willingness to manage fuel storage and safety measures.

Domestic Central Heating System

If you want the convenience of a central heating system, consider a domestic central heating system if your cabin is connected to the grid. While it may have a higher upfront cost, it can efficiently heat your entire living space.

Central Air Heating and Cooling System

Transform your existing central air conditioning system into a highly efficient mini-split setup with our state-of-the-art variable speed compressor featuring Inverter Technology. Say goodbye to old, inefficient central air conditioner units.

1. Efficient Heating: 

Central heating systems are known for their efficiency in distributing heat evenly throughout the cabin, ensuring consistent warmth in all rooms.

2. Thermostat Control:

Central heating systems often come with programmable thermostats, allowing you to set and maintain your desired cabin temperature easily. This precision can enhance comfort.

3. Multiple Fuel Options:

Central heating systems can run on various fuel sources, including natural gas, propane, oil, electricity, or even renewable sources like solar or geothermal energy, providing flexibility based on your location and preferences.

4. Low Maintenance: 

Many central heating systems require minimal maintenance, with fewer moving parts compared to some other heating methods.

5. Integration with Other Systems:

Central heating systems can be integrated with other systems, such as radiant floor heating or air conditioning, to provide year-round comfort in your cabin.

6. Quiet Operation:

Central heating systems, particularly forced-air systems, operate quietly, allowing for a peaceful cabin environment.

7. Ducted Distribution:

Ducted central heating systems can distribute warm air through ductwork, which can be routed discreetly through walls or ceilings to avoid interfering with the cabin’s aesthetics.

The installation of a central heating system in a cabin can be expensive, including the cost of the heater, ductwork (if applicable), and installation labor.

2. Space Requirements:

Central heating systems may require space for heating units, ducts, and vents, which could impact cabin layout and design.

3. Dependency on Infrastructure: 

Central heating systems may require access to specific infrastructure, such as natural gas lines or electricity, which may not be available in all cabin locations.

4. Energy Efficiency:

While central heating systems are generally efficient, some older models may be less energy-efficient, potentially leading to higher heating costs.

The environmental impact of central heating systems depends on the fuel source. Systems running on fossil fuels like oil or natural gas may contribute to carbon emissions.

6. Complex Installation:

Installing a central heating system may require professional expertise, adding to the overall installation cost.

7. Heat Distribution:

In larger cabins or cabins with uneven layouts, ensuring consistent heat distribution can be challenging without careful design and maintenance of the heating system.

Our Take: Domestic central heating systems can provide efficient and reliable heating for cabins, offering precise control and even heat distribution. However, their initial cost, space requirements, and potential dependencies on infrastructure should be considered. The suitability of central heating systems as the best cabin heaters depends on factors such as cabin size, location, budget, and preferences for heating control and distribution.

Xtreme Heaters and Other Boat Cabin Heaters

We had to include this because I noticed some of you were looking specifically for boat cabins, Xtreme Heaters are built to withstand harsh marine environments. They are the best way to ensure your boat cabin remains warm even during the colder months

Caframo SEEKR by Caframo, Pali

The Caframo SEEKR, meets all ignition protection guidelines and standards. Plus it has a safe thermostat temperature control, and so much more.

1. Marine-Specific Design:

Xtreme heaters and boat heaters are designed to withstand the harsh marine environment, including exposure to saltwater, humidity, and temperature fluctuations, making them well-suited for cabins on boats.

2. Compact Size:

Boat cabin heaters are typically compact and can fit into tight spaces, making them ideal for the limited space available on boats and in cabins.

The Xtreme heater is designed to provide efficient heating in enclosed spaces. They can quickly warm up small cabins, helping to maintain a comfortable onboard temperature.

4. Safety Features:

Many boat cabin heaters come with safety features like automatic shut-off mechanisms, low oxygen sensors, and flame failure detection, ensuring safe operation in enclosed spaces.

5. Low Power Consumption:

Boat cabin heaters are often designed to be energy-efficient, minimizing the drain on the boat’s electrical system or fuel source.

Boat cabin heaters are generally engineered to operate quietly, allowing for a peaceful and comfortable onboard experience.

7. Variety of Fuel Options:

Boat cabin heaters are available in different fuel types, including electric, propane, diesel, and solid fuel, allowing boat owners to choose the most suitable option for their needs and fuel availability.

1. Specific Application:

Xtreme heaters and boat cabin heaters are designed primarily for boat cabins and smaller enclosed spaces. They may not be suitable for larger cabins or buildings.

2. Installation Complexity:

Proper installation of boat cabin heaters may require specific knowledge and expertise related to marine systems, which could be challenging for some boat owners.

3. Limited Heating Capacity:

Due to their compact size, boat cabin heaters may have limitations in terms of the amount of space they can effectively heat. Multiple units may be needed for larger cabins.

High-quality marine-specific heaters can be relatively expensive compared to standard cabin heaters, particularly when considering the need for marine-grade components.

5. Fuel Availability:

The availability of the chosen fuel source (e.g., propane, diesel) may vary depending on the region and where the boat is docked or moored.

6. Regular Maintenance:

Just like any other heating system, boat cabin heaters require regular maintenance to ensure safe and efficient operation. This includes cleaning, inspections, and, if necessary, repairs.

Our Take:  Xtreme heaters and other boat cabin heaters are well-suited for the specific challenges of boat cabins, offering efficient heating and safety features. However, their limited capacity, cost, and need for proper installation and maintenance should be considered. The decision to use boat cabin heaters as the best cabin heaters depends on your cabin’s size, location, and the specific requirements of your boat or marine vessel.

The best cabin heater for you depends on your specific needs and the resources available to you. Whether you prefer the cozy ambiance of a wood stove, the convenience of electric heaters, or the efficiency of direct vent or propane heaters, there are plenty of options to keep your cabin warm during the colder months.

Just be sure to do your research, follow safety guidelines, and stay warm and cozy in your cabin oasis. And if you’re looking for a great deal, don’t forget to check for free shipping options and discounts on your chosen heater through online retailers or forums like the Small Cabin Forum.

Stephanie, an Indigenous woman, wife, and mother of two, brings a lifetime of expertise to Cottage Living and Style. Raising her family in a small cottage, and even smaller cabin, she knows first hand the unique challenges readers face, her deep-rooted passion for making the most of small homes through DIY, design and organization have made her an expert in all things related to small space living. Her work is not just a reflection of her skills, but also a tribute to her education in Interior Design and her life as a mother that define our mission of helping families thrive in small homes.

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Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Best portable boat heaters to stay frost free and cosy – TESTED

• December 14, 2023

Fox Morgan shares some of their tried and tested choices of best portable boat heater to help keep your boat frost free and cosy. There's heaters and then there's the best portable boat heaters!

The best portable boat heaters have to fulfil a variety of requirements and come in different styles and formats according to application.

Do you want to leave your boat and sleep soundly at night knowing that a frostat is taking care of things, avoiding ice and frost damage to domestic pipework and your engine? Or do you want a cosy cabin to sit in while you enjoy your boat year round?

Combining portable heaters with a dehumidifier is the best way to keep mold and mildew at bay, whether you live on your boat, or close it up for winter.

There’s a lot of blown air heaters, radiators both solid and oil filled and tube heaters on the market, but how do you choose the best one ? Well, I’ve had over 40 years on boats of all kinds in all kinds of climates. I’ve experienced the best and the worst of cold damp cabins and cosy dry cabins. We’re obviously aiming for the latter.

Here’s my tried and tested selection of some of the best heaters for over wintering your boat.

I’ve created two lists, the best portable boat heaters for those who want to avoid frost damage while their boat is laid up and the best portable boat heaters for those who use their boat year round.

At a glance-

Dimplex 2kw oil filled radiator – best all round heating performance – buy it now from argos, dimplex 2kw oscillating ceramic heater – best for instant room filling heat – buy now from amazon, dimplex tubular heater 40w – best for keeping frost and damp at bay in small spaces – buy it now from screwfix, daewoo mini oil filled radiator – best for creating a clothes drying locker – buy it now from ebay, best portable boat heaters for those who use their boats year round and want a cosy cabin.

Dimplex Essentials DEOC20 2kW Oil Filled Radiator

Best portable boat heater for all round heating performance

Reasons to Buy

heats up a saloon comfortably, range of power settings, great for drying wet clothes

Reasons to Avoid

requires quite a bit of floor space, not as easy to stow as a smaller heater, takes a while to get warm

I use this radiator on my boat and after trying a range of others, this is the one I’m currently favouring for general all round ambient heat. It takes a while to get going as it is oil filled, but once it is up to temperature, which can be pretty hot, too hot for me to touch, then the saloon of my Dehler 36 is warm and consistently cosy.

It has three power settings with a 2kw top power setting and 800w Low setting with 1200w mid power setting. I combine this with my dehumidifier for a complete heating and drying solution. You can read about the dehumidifier here

Buy it now from Amazon

Note: We may earn a commission when you buy through links on our site, at no extra cost to you. This doesn’t affect our editorial independence.

Digital Convection Radiator 2000W Portable Adjustable Temperature & 24hr Timer

built in timer, remote control, instant heat from convector heating

convector heaters don’t retain heat, quite a bulky unit so hard to store, needs a fair bit of floor space

As a 2,000 Watt convector radiator, the PureMate portable electric boat heater provides a high output should it be needed. For those needing less power the unit has four settings, the lowest of which reduces the output to 667 Watts.

There’s also a 24-hour timer, an adjustable thermostat dial, temperature control and an ECO mode for added control. Supplied with a remote controller and featuring a thermal safety cut-out, the PureMate is an oil-free radiator.

Designed to look good as well as being versatile, the unit features a sleek design and measures 55.3 x 25.5 x 64.5 cm.

Buy it now from Ebay

Dimplex OFRB7N Eco Chico oil free radiator

Reasons to buy

low power, no oil so no risk of piercing/leak, great for small spaces/clothes drying

Reasons to avoid

struggles to heat a saloon on a cold day, very basic

Neatly packaged in a compact, if somewhat bulbous design, measuring just 44.6 x 29.6 x 19.4 cm, the Dimplex OFRB7N is a high performance, free-standing, mini radiator delivering 700 Watts of heating power.

Weighing in at just 5.4 kg, the unit can be easily moved around if required. As a state-of-the-art product, the Eco Chico uses Dimplex’s patented oil-free technology, which in addition to giving what Dimplex describes as an ultra-rapid heat-up time, is eco-friendly compared to its oil-filled counterparts.

This attractive little radiator is also BEAB (British Electrotechnical Approvals Board) approved and comes complete with a three-year manufacturer’s warranty.

I have used this heater for about 8 years now and I can happily leave it running in a closed cabin to warm it up. It is a low powered heater so it is best used in smaller spaces, such as the heads, or a closed cabin. The heat is somewhat lost in a saloon of a 36 foot sail boat.

I find this heater conveniently slots between the bottom bars of a clothes airer and it makes a good clothes drying heater when I sling my clothes over the airer like a tent. It makes a good home office heater to sit close to without risk of burning clothes/skin.

Buy it now from Aircon centre

Daewoo Mini Oil Filled Radiator 800W 6-Fin Portable Heater Dial Thermostat White

Best portable boat heater for small spaces/drying kit in a locker.

Doesn’t take up much room, low energy consumption, can be left unattended, fits in spaces where clothes can be hung to dry

Not powerful enough for a large cabin, no built in timer/basic functions

As a budget priced electric radiator, the 800 Watt Daewoo Mini offers good power and excellent value for money. While this radiator is oil-filled, the unit does incorporate an automatic tip-over switch – which is obviously a key point to note for any product being used in a marine environment.

There’s also a thermal safety cut-out to protect against overheating and an integrated rotary thermostat which is fully adjustable. The lightweight 3 kg design measures just 38 x 28 x 14 cm, making the product convenient to use and easily transportable.

I use one of these in small spaces, such as my aft cabin or my heads area. It takes up very little space on the floor and the handy thing with this is that you can position it under where your towel or cold water swim kit hangs for example for a localised drying solution.

Dimplex M2GTS 2kW Oscillating Ceramic Heater

Best portable boat heater for instant portable heat.

Powerful heating from a small unit, fills a cabin with heat very quickly, good thermostat settings

Not everyone likes the sound of a fan running despite this being one of the quietest available

This is a cracking little heater that has the option to oscillate to move the heat around your cabin. The digital readout allows you to fairly accurately set your thermostat for desired room temperature and then you can set it running. It is relatively quiet as fan heaters go and I have this one running in all sorts of cold places I want to heat up quickly.

I find myself standing in front of it warming my hands and find it convenient to move it from desk top to floor and back to table top. The readout is easy to see in the dark and the auto power adjust is handy for being a little bit more economical with the electricity it requires. With the auto cut off if it falls over you can sleep soundly at night leaving this on.

The fan part is one of the quietest fan heaters I’ve used but it isn’t silent so some people might find it annoying. I love this little heater for the combined portability and the amount of heat it kicks out. Combine this with a larger oil filled radiator and this is my current set up for a cosy winter cabin.

Buy now from Argos

Buy now from Amazon

De’Longhi HTF3033 Fan Heater – White

Powerful heater fills a room quickly, easy to stow when not in use, easy to position.

Noisy, some boat electrical systems might struggle with a 3kw heater

This fan heater has been around for quite a few years now. It’s a powerful unit at 3kw so if you have the power cable that can handle it, then this is just the job to stick on when you arrive at a cold boat and want to warm it up quickly.

It will heat up a moderate sized boat saloon area in about 15 minutes and gives that instant burst of heat. You wouldn’t want to use this as the sole mode of heating though as it is quite noisy and does require some power to run. It’s also great to heat up a shed or workspace quickly.

TOP TIP: if you are using one of these, then an issue I’ve had with most of the kick space heaters is that it can be hard to see where the dial is pointing to. I got around this with some red PVC insulation tape and put on some of my preferred settings to make it easier to see at a glance, even in the dark with a head torch.

BEWARE: a 3kw heater can really push some extension cables beyond their limit. Be careful with the loads you place on 13A plugs and their cables.

I added some red insulating tape to help me see where to click the knobs round to for the best heat settings.

Buy it now from onbuy

Best portable boat heaters for overwintering your boat to avoid frost damage

DIMPLEX ECOT1FT WALL-MOUNTED TUBULAR HEATER 40W 408 X 81MM

Best portable boat heater for frost protection of small spaces.

Versatile and can be mounted almost anywhere, low power, safe to leave running, low power consumption

Not suitable as a cabin heater

The smallest of the best portable boat heaters covered here is also unsurprisingly the least powerful, for the Dimplex ECOT1FT tube heater delivers just 40 Watts of warmth. It’s also an unashamedly basic product with no programmable features or timer functions.

But what this little boat heater is good at is delivering is a low amount of heat continuously. All of these attributes, or lack of them, is what make this little tube heater an ideal tool for small spaces.

Essentially, it’s a fit and forget product that will take the edge off the chill and help protect from cold and frost throughout the winter season.

This tube is ideal for cupboards and closed lockers where you require frost protection and the continuous heat will help to keep condensation and humidity at bay too. Ideal for a lifejacket hanging storage or other cupboard with moisture or heat sensitive items inside.

I use one of these inside my wardrobe and it keeps my clothes feeling fresh and damp free.

Buy it now from Screwfix

DIMPLEX ECOT2FT WALL-MOUNTED TUBULAR HEATER 80W 713 X 81MM

Reason to Buy

Reliable constant low level heat in a confined space, safe to leave running unattended, low power consumption

might be a little too long for some cupboard spaces, this is not a cabin heater

Designed to be left running continuously, the Dimplex ECOT2FT is a compact tubular boat heater measuring just 71.3 x 8.1 cm. The unit’s low power 80 Watts rating means that it perhaps best described as a trickle heater; it won’t keep your boat warm but it will provide sufficient output to ward off the chill.

Popular amongst the owners of smaller vessels, boat heaters such as the Dimplex ECO2FT are noted for their durability, dependability and economy.

Their reliability is doubtlessly enhanced by the fact that there is very little to go wrong – for inside the tubular metal casing there is just the heating element, a thermostatic control and precious little else.

Ideal for situating in an engine compartment or room.

Dimplex Coldwatcher Heater, 500 W

No frills means very little to go wrong, it can be wall mounted, can be left unattended

Not intended for use as a main heater

One of the most respected names in the heating world, Dimplex’s heavy duty Cold Watcher 500 boat heater is compact and robust and can be depended upon to provide protection against the cold and frost.

The unit’s 500 Watt element is controlled by a rotary switching thermostat. It’s a no frills basic heater and measures just 25.5 x 33 x 15 cm. On frost setting the heater clicks on at around 7 degrees C to maintain a safe temperature for boat systems, pipe work and other temperature sensitive items onboard.

For added protection, the unit has a water resistance rating of IPX4 and has been tested against the British Standard for frost protection.

You’ll find this heater on lots of boats, inside caravans and in all sorts of places that need a gentle continuous heat and can be left to just get on with the job of keeping the frost at bay.

It’s not just one of the bets portable boat heaters, but it has universal appeal for lofts, greenhouses, sheds and so on.

If you want  a cosy warm cabin because you are staying onboard though, you might consider one of the other heaters further down this guide.

Caframo Limited Stor-Dry Warm Air Circulator

reliable set and forget, low energy consumption, can be powered from solar/wind due to low power use

Not a cheap option to buy initially, might be hard to position on smaller boats

Available from Force 4 Chandlery, Amazon and a load of other retail outlets online, the Stor-Dry is a low wattage warm air circulator designed to combat mould, mildew and musty odours.

The unit draws less than 75 Watts and is rust and corrosion proof. As a dual action air dryer, the Stor-Dry features both a heating element and a fan in a single unit. With no reservoir to empty, the unit can be left running continuously.

It works in a similar way to a tube heater so there’s a basic element radiating heat, but where this heater differs is that it has a fan that gently circulates air, pulling it in through the bottom of the unit and expelling slightly warmed air through the top vent.

This is another heater that can be “set and forget” as you can safely leave this running without being in constant attendance. You can leave two or three of these running in different cabins throughout your boat and it will keep the air moving and the frost at bay as well as being useful to reduce the risk of mould and mildew growing.

But it now from Amazon

Sailboat Cabin Heater

Home » Heaters Application » Marine Heater » Sailboat Cabin Heater

• Rapid and consistent heating
• RoHS, CE and FCC compliant
• Different heating levels; high, medium and low
• Portable designed parking heater for your Campervan
• The best heating idea for Campervan
• 10 years parking heater heating system manufacturer

During winter and summer, the VVKB Sailboat Cabin Heater guarantees comfortable and relaxing environment. The safe, consistent and rapid heating will definitely warm up your winter.

Similarly, the intelligent ventilation system of the VVKB Sailboat Cabin Heater allows the cool sea or ocean breeze to flow into the cabin. . Even in the deep seas or ocean, VVKB Sailboat Cabin Heater will guarantee a comfortable temperature.

As a trusted diesel boat heaters supplier , VVKB has compact, easy to install and maintain sailboat cabin heaters. The VVKB Sailboat Cabin Heater is an independent parking heater that you can install in section of your sailboat cabin.

With the VVKB Sailboat Cabin Heaters, you can experience warmth from the very start, be it during winter or freezing cold weather in the sea. The low CO 2 emission and fuel consumption makes it suitable for any adventure in the sea.

Why Vvkb Sailboat Cabin Heater

Send enquiry now, related products, apollo-v1 air parking heater, apollo-c2 petrol water heater, titan-p3 diesel engine preheater, titan-p5 truck block heater, popular products.

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Cabin Heater

• Thread starter Boomvang
• Start date Sep 25, 2018
• Oday Owner Forums
• Ask An Oday Owner

Has anyone installed a Webasto diesel fired cabin heater? If so how did that go and do you like it?  

Hi Boomvang, I have not, but have read a lot of very satisfied reports on the Webasto diesel heater on other forums. It sounds like a very practical unit, forced warm air around the cabin, etc. I like the Dickinson “fireplace”models just because I think the ambience of the flames would be really nice, but I would imagine that the heating efficiency is much higher on the Webasto. Greg  

Captain Larry-DH

I installed a Webasto Airtop 2000 kit and haven’t been able to use it yet because it doesn’t turn on. I’m sure it’s something I didn’t do (yet) as the instructions are HORRIBLE! The instructions are so unclear and sparse I’ve never seen anything like it. (I’m an IT guy and usually very quick to grasp technology documentation.). See if you can find them online - I can’t begin to explain how bad it is. I need to call support (if I can find a number) and hopefully can get it working. PS. This is not an easy DIY physical installation either. You need to drill and route and mount ducting and fixtures for fuel pickup, exhaust, intake, and warmed air ductwork.  

I have an older Espar diesel heater on my boat. We really like it. It's similar in quite a few ways to the Webasto, but most of the sailors I know in this area really favor the Webasto. I had my unit serviced recently and the dealer was highly recommending the Webasto if I ever needed to go for a replacement. Also, a broker friend here with lots of cold weather experience favors Webasto. Installation of any of these diesel heaters is a bit of a bear. So good luck if you go it alone. Try to find a location that will allow for reasonable access if you ever need to fix anything.  

Mark Maulden

And, I have a newer Espar that works great. Espar/Webasto...tomato/tomoto..they both work the same and both are good. Installation is not hard. Know the limitations and design as such. Then do it. Recognize that it will take time and dont get frustrated if it takes longer than anticipated. If you are uncomfortable with installation, a competent installer can do it in a day..  

LeslieTroyer

Im currently installing a Planar (Russian knockoff of the Espar) - take your time and really scope out the route of the duct work. Les  

I just finished installing a Chinese knock off. The unit was $200, the through hull, $55, I made my own exhaust muffler out of a motorcycle muffler on Amazon (you need to use a special paste to make it airtight) plus another $150 for tubing from Sure Marine. If I were to do it again I would definitely get the marine exhaust muffler for $180 instead of fulling around with the motorcycle one. That being said, once all done, the unit is wonderful. You get fresh, warm and dry air around the boat. The remote is excellent, well lit and very functional. I am taking fuel directly from the Racor filter, combusion and ventilation air both from the outside. The unit is super quiet. I love it. By far the most practical solution to heating the boat even in a place like Socal. I stopped using the electric heater when at the marina as the diesel heater is so much better. Strongly recommended.  

I was approached a number of years ago by an Espar " knock-off " company wanting to get into the marine market. Before I accepted becoming a dealer I wanted to have one to examine and install. I paid dealer price for it. Upon initial inspection it was as near identical as could possibly be, but looks are not everything. In the end nothing about the unit was quality nor was it safe for a marine application. I installed it on my own vessel as a test bench and by the time I was done, doing it correctly, it cost more than an Espar marine kit. I declined becoming a dealer as the company failed in every possible way from quality to customer service. While the pricing seemed attractive by the time I purchased all the stuff needed to make it a safe and compliant marine install it cost more than an Espar. Within a few weeks of using it the first fuel pump began to leak, then the second one, then the third. Warranty replacements? Now that's funny.... The promised credits never came through. No problem I'll just use an Espar pump. No go, would not work with the Espar pump. Looks the same but was not. Then the muffler began leaking, spot weld failed, the igniter died and a bit later the HX cracked. Long and short is I now have an Espar, which is what I should have done from the beginning.... Some things I have learned over many years of installing these heaters... #1 The truck kits & "knock-offs" are quite different from the Eberspacher "Espar" marine kits, do not skimp here. #2 A marine unit has different fuel line to meet marine standards, copper, not plastic. The plastic fuel lines in the truck kit do not meet ABYC, USCG or minimum standards your insurance company will want to see. Finding metric size copper in the US can be tedious and ABYC/USCG complaint rubber hose is simply not made in these sizes. #3 A marine kit has marine specific software to minimize lock outs. On trucks they know where the fuel tanks are in comparison to the fuel metering pump. Not so on boats so the software is programmed differently to minimize lock outs.. #4 The truck kit comes with very little duct hose & supply/return outlets/inlets and the plenum is usually smaller. #5 The truck kit does not come with any exhaust lagging .. #6 The truck kit does not come with an exhaust muffler... #7 The truck kit does not come with double walled marine SS exhaust hose. It is single wall and not safe for marine use. The double wall SS exhaust hose is two spiral wraps of SS vs. one. The knock offs & Espar truck kits I have seen use one spiral layer. You can hardly tell the difference between standard and marine other than the marine version is much stiffer.. The marine vent can handle positive pressure and not leak / vent exhaust into the cabin where the single wall can leak. #8 The truck kit does not come with the exhaust fitting for the transom (often this needs to bee custom anyway) #9 The truck kit does not come with a marine mounting bracket, they mount them on a floor in the cab. This mean buying a mount or custom fabricating one. #10 On some models the marine kits use larger duct hose diameters and heater outlets (plenum) to make up for the longer runs in boats. Our local Espar distributor refuses to sell these parts for a truck unit due to claimed liability . #11 Truck kits don't come with exhaust condensate drains (some marine kits don't either) I have installed a number of Espar's for folks trying to save a buck by purchasing truck kit or a knock off unit from Russia or China.. To install the unit correctly , with the correct parts has always costs more in the long run. I would strongly urge you to buy a heater from whomever will stand behind it and service it locally . I would also not install an Espar without the digital thermostat. These stats allow you to re-set codes and trouble shoot the codes. The service tool for this cost over $1000.00 and the Digi-Max D-1000 stat costs under $100.00 Also please avoid teeing into an existing fuel line. The fuel "metering" pumps need the small diameter pick up the Espar ships with or they can lock out and cause problems. These metering pumps are not a typical fuel pump and don't behave like one. Also please don't be tempted to oversize these as short runs or what is called "short cycling" leads to dirty combustion. Also if you want an Espar to run quietly, and not sound like a jet engine, install their intake air silencer. The difference is night and day...  

Not sure where the Army Surplus Stores are these days... but in 1970 my message center ran courrier runs all over Germany. The jeep did not have a heater, but the motor pool got us a heater from a "Deuce and Half" truck. SIMPLE, 2- hose connection to the engine and 12v for the fan. The unit fit between the front seats, and to boot, it had a small pluenum chamber where we could heat up our food. I always thought they'd be perfect for a boat, but where to buy? Now, if only the company commander had not absconded with the side curtains during winter NATO field exercises......  

Maine Sail said: I was approached a number of years ago by an Espar " knock-off " company wanting to get into the marine market. Before I accepted becoming a dealer I wanted to have one to examine and install. I paid dealer price for it. Upon initial inspection it was as near identical as could possibly be, but looks are not everything. In the end nothing about the unit was quality nor was it safe for a marine application. I installed it on my own vessel as a test bench and by the time I was done, doing it correctly, it cost more than an Espar marine kit. I declined becoming a dealer as the company failed in every possible way from quality to customer service. While the pricing seemed attractive by the time I purchased all the stuff needed to make it a safe and compliant marine install it cost more than an Espar. Within a few weeks of using it the first fuel pump began to leak, then the second one, then the third. Warranty replacements? Now that's funny.... The promised credits never came through. No problem I'll just use an Espar pump. No go, would not work with the Espar pump. Looks the same but was not. Then the muffler began leaking, spot weld failed, the igniter died and a bit later the HX cracked. Long and short is I now have an Espar, which is what I should have done from the beginning.... Some things I have learned over many years of installing these heaters... #1 The truck kits & "knock-offs" are quite different from the Eberspacher "Espar" marine kits, do not skimp here. #2 A marine unit has different fuel line to meet marine standards, copper, not plastic. The plastic fuel lines in the truck kit do not meet ABYC, USCG or minimum standards your insurance company will want to see. Finding metric size copper in the US can be tedious and ABYC/USCG complaint rubber hose is simply not made in these sizes. #3 A marine kit has marine specific software to minimize lock outs. On trucks they know where the fuel tanks are in comparison to the fuel metering pump. Not so on boats so the software is programmed differently to minimize lock outs.. #4 The truck kit comes with very little duct hose & supply/return outlets/inlets and the plenum is usually smaller. #5 The truck kit does not come with any exhaust lagging .. #6 The truck kit does not come with an exhaust muffler... #7 The truck kit does not come with double walled marine SS exhaust hose. It is single wall and not safe for marine use. The double wall SS exhaust hose is two spiral wraps of SS vs. one. The knock offs & Espar truck kits I have seen use one spiral layer. You can hardly tell the difference between standard and marine other than the marine version is much stiffer.. The marine vent can handle positive pressure and not leak / vent exhaust into the cabin where the single wall can leak. #8 The truck kit does not come with the exhaust fitting for the transom (often this needs to bee custom anyway) #9 The truck kit does not come with a marine mounting bracket, they mount them on a floor in the cab. This mean buying a mount or custom fabricating one. #10 On some models the marine kits use larger duct hose diameters and heater outlets (plenum) to make up for the longer runs in boats. Our local Espar distributor refuses to sell these parts for a truck unit due to claimed liability . #11 Truck kits don't come with exhaust condensate drains (some marine kits don't either) I have installed a number of Espar's for folks trying to save a buck by purchasing truck kit or a knock off unit from Russia or China.. To install the unit correctly , with the correct parts has always costs more in the long run. I would strongly urge you to buy a heater from whomever will stand behind it and service it locally . I would also not install an Espar without the digital thermostat. These stats allow you to re-set codes and trouble shoot the codes. The service tool for this cost over $1000.00 and the Digi-Max D-1000 stat costs under $100.00 Also please avoid teeing into an existing fuel line. The fuel "metering" pumps need the small diameter pick up the Espar ships with or they can lock out and cause problems. These metering pumps are not a typical fuel pump and don't behave like one. Also please don't be tempted to oversize these as short runs or what is called "short cycling" leads to dirty combustion. Also if you want an Espar to run quietly, and not sound like a jet engine, install their intake air silencer. The difference is night and day... Click to expand

On our boat we have a Paul Luke fireplace that was converted to using two Optimus kerosene burners. Outside the firebox, air is drawn down into the lower salon via a bilge blower and hose duct system. It consumed too much power, was noisy, and was dirty with soot! The burners are just dirty and unreliable running off a preeurized 2 gallon fuel tank. What a mess! I removed the kerosene burners, fuel line and tank and replaced the burners with the alcohol burner and flame control system from an Origo heatPal system. The firebox and tile stove heat up the Pilothouse and warm air is drawn into the main salon via ducting and a 12v muffin computer fan. The fan is properly fused, is quiet and moves an abundance of air below. I 3D printed adapters for the fan to 3” hose /ducting. Draws less than 1amp, and moves air to warm our entire Corbin 39 at 74 degrees when it’s 20 degrees out. On one Origo alcohol tank I get more than 7-8 hrs of burn time easy. It’s clean, warm, and easy to safely control. Using a couple dorade vents for ventilation and the stove pipe chimney ensures plenty of oxygen. We use carbon dioxide detectors also. Not a system for live aboard times but works wonderful for cruising.  

• There is quite a disparity between the heat output at the 'zero run' aft berth and the 'long run' v-berth in the front. So, we've started closing the v-berth door and heat vent. It keeps the rest of the boat more evenly heated and the heater runs less often and for shorter periods of time.
• Our installation has heat outlets in the aft berth, a branch that runs to the head (a vent out of the vanity cabinet), the main saloon near the table, and all the way forward to the v-berth. Except for the branch to the head, all of the ducting is run (very low) through a long run of cabinetry and seating.
• While it's 'quiet', it is NOT 'silent'. Having the unit installed next to where you sleep definitely makes it noisier than your home furnace, and you may very well notice it until you get used to it. On the other hand, if chattering teeth keep you awake at night, it might be a reasonable trade-off.
• The hot air ducts take up quite a bit of space where they run through what was intended to be storage.
• Using the heater does make a small difference in our fuel consumption. Not a big deal with our current boat, but it could have been with our tiny (7 gal.) fuel tank in our first boat.

Captain Larry-DH said: I installed a Webasto Airtop 2000 kit and haven’t been able to use it yet because it doesn’t turn on. I’m sure it’s something I didn’t do (yet)... Click to expand

Captain Larry-DH said: PS. This is not an easy DIY physical installation either. You need to drill and route and mount ducting and fixtures for fuel pickup, exhaust, intake, and warmed air ductwork. Click to expand

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The Musings of a Hopeless Wanderer

Engaging in the eternal search for the meaning of life...or a good time.

• Netherlands

Monday, September 3, 2018

Tackling moscow by train and boat.

Our first full day in Moscow started fairly late since we were still catching up on sleep.  Around 1, we finally were able to get our act together and get out the door. 

We stopped by a cafe to get some breakfast and headed over to the Red Square.  Since the festival is going on, we had to go through metal detectors.  Once we cleared security, we reached the State Historical Museum which provided an entrance to the Red Square.

We walked the length of the Red Square, passing by the Kazan cathedral.

Under normal conditions, the Red Square is a large walking area with the State Historical Museum on one end and St. Basil's on the other end.  On the sides is the Kremlin wall on one side and then the GUM shopping mall and the Kazan cathedral on the other side.  Presently, the walking area has been considerably narrowed and the fesitval grounds occupying a large space between the Kremlin and the mall.

We even asked a stranger to take our picture!

After walking around the Red Square, we had to leave to meet up with our Metro Tour.  

Moscow has famously pretty metro stations so metro tours are quite popular.  We booked a relatively inexpensive tour through a tour group which met outside of the Red Square.

On our way, we passed by the Kremlin gardens and the tomb to the unknown soldier and the eternal flame.

We soon met up with our group which, fortunately, was only 5 people.  Our guide told us that we were going to visit 8 stations during the 1.5 hour tour.  

Honestly, a lot of the stations blended in to me so I won't be able to give you a detailed description of all of them.  However, I did learn that there are 222 metro stations and the trains come every 2-3 minutes reliably.  For that reason, Moscow > DC. 

One of the first metro stations we visited had bronze statues all over of various depictions.  Many of the statues had superstitions tied to them.  For example, for a statue of the dog, it's held that if you rub the nose of the dog, you'll have good luck.  Consequently, most of the statue is tarnished - except for the nose.  I joked to Tomas that they probably rotate the "good luck" portion of the statue to ensure the entire statue gets polished.

However, I do remember some of the stations.

Novoslobodskaya is a station adorned with stained glass on the walls.

There was also Belarusskaya, which paid tribute to Belarus.

Another station which name I cannot remember but had pretty mosaics in the ceilings.

My favorite station was Komsomolskaya.  It's the busiest station and a hub for other connecting trains.  It was built during Statlin times and he wanted the station to embody beauty to set a good first impression to Russia.

I'd seen pictures of it beforehand since it's the most famous but it's so much more impressive in person.

Look at these ceilings!

Overall it was a very interesting tour.  Not sure of any other city which could offer a metro tour.  DC certainly can't...

After the tour, we headed back of the hotel to rest for a bit.  We had purchased tickets to a tour hour boat down the Moscow river.  The tickets were good for any time on any day and the boats left every 20min.  We decided to knock the tour out that day and headed over to the pier.  

We arrived at the pier and saw a boat by the company we had purchased from boarding.  We approached and they shook their head and said it wasn't the right boat. 

So we waited for another boat.

Another boat came along by the same company we had purchased from so weapproached them.  Again - we were told it wasn't the right boat and the boat we were looking for was coming.  

A third boat came along which was NOT by the company we had purchased from.  By this point, it had been longer than 20min waiting and I was starting to suspect that the correct boat was actually one of the ones which turned us away.   We approached the 3rd boat to ask if they knew which boat we should be on.  However, when we approached,  they waved us aboard without scanning our tickets.

So, we boarded the 3rd boat....which was definitely not ours.

We settled into an upper deck, open air table to take in the views.

We passed by pretty buildings.

The somewhat impressive cathedral of Christ the Savior.

This random statue.

After about hour on the cruise, Tomas remarked that it had been about an hour so we should be turning around soon.  I reminded him that we actually had no idea how long this cruise was or where we would be dropped off.  Since we were on the wrong boat.

Fortunately, it did turn around and took us back to the pier.  

For dinner, we decided to go to this burger place, Black Star Burger, which our guide told us about.  Tomas really liked his - I thought mine was OK.  It was a decent size patty with a mountain of Cole slaw on top.  We've realized that apparently Russians dislike getting their hands dirty while eating so some restaurants will give out gloves to use.  This particular restaurant gave out black gloves.

Tomas modeling our dinner.

Since little mum has been asking about pictures which show my feet, I assume she wanted to see my new shoes.  I recently bought Allbirds which are suppose to be super comfortable walking shoes which you wear without socks and can be washed.  I didn't wear them too extensively beforehand, so that was probably my first error.  I also didn't bring another pair of good walking shoes,  which was likely my second error.  The Allbirds were great the first two days without socks.  Midway through the third day, my right foot was quite unhappy. Left foot was a trooper. So, now I have a bandaid on the heel of my right foot and wear socks.  

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VESSEL REVIEW | Sinichka – Electric commuter boats designed for Russia’s Moskva River

A series of three new electric monohull commuter ferries have already begun operational sailings on the Moskva River in the Russian capital Moscow.

Built by Russian shipyard Emperium, sister vessels Sinichka , Filka , and Presnya – all named after rivers in Moscow – are being operated by the Moscow Department of Transport and Road Infrastructure Development (Moscow Deptrans). They are the first units of a planned fleet of 20 vessels that will serve the capital city and other nearby communities. The new ferry system will be the water transport system to be operated on the Moskva River in 16 years.

Each vessel has a welded aluminium hull, an LOA of 21 metres, a beam of 6.2 metres, a draught of only 1.4 metres, a displacement of 40 tonnes, and capacity for 80 passengers plus two crewmembers. Seating is available for 42 passengers on each ferry, and the main cabins are also fitted with USB charging ports, wifi connectivity, tables, toilets, and space for bicycles and scooters. The cabin layout can be rearranged to allow the operator to adjust the distances between the seats and to install armrests of varying widths.

An open upper deck is also accessible to passengers and is the only area on each ferry where smoking is allowed.

The ferries are all of modular construction with each ferry's wheelhouse, main cabin, and other structural elements being built as complete, separate components. This enables the ferries to be easily dismantled for transport to anywhere in Russia by rail and then quickly re-assembled within seven days.

The ferries are also ice-capable. Recently completed operational trials on the Moskva showed that the vessels can also easily navigate under mild winter conditions with broken surface ice, though year-round operations are planned for the entire fleet.

The ferries are each fitted with 500kWh lithium iron phosphate battery packs that supply power to two 134kW motors. This configuration can deliver a maximum speed of 11.8 knots, a cruising speed of just under 10 knots, and a range of 150 kilometres.

Emperium said the transfer of rotation of electric motors to the propeller is carried out by direct drive. As a propulsion installation, a pulling rotary propeller-steering column with double screws is used. The installation of double pulling screws, with similar power, allows an operator to increase the efficiency of the propulsion system to deliver a slightly higher speed or to reduce energy consumption. This arrangement also provides the ferries with enhanced manoeuvrability necessary for navigating in close quarters.

The batteries themselves have projected service lives of 10 to 12 years and are fitted with safety features such as built-in fire extinguishers and gas vents. Quick-disconnect features allow the batteries to be easily removed for replacement or maintenance.

Some of our readers have expressed disquiet at our publication of reviews and articles describing new vessels from Russia. We at Baird Maritime can understand and sympathise with those views. However, despite the behaviour of the country's leaders, we believe that the maritime world needs to learn of the latest developments in vessel design and construction there.

Click here to read other news stories, features, opinion articles, and vessel reviews as part of this month's Passenger Vessel Week.

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