painting sailboat interior fiberglass

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Painting interior fiberglass- What to use?

• Thread starter louisderry
• Start date 6 Mar 2015

Active member

louisderry said: ...seems to be fiberglass with a thin gel-coat layer. Can anyone recommend an interior gel-coat to seal it all up and stop damp collecting in the future ? I realise the area has to be keyd with sandpaper using a mask but if someone could recommend a good gelcoat for this that'd be ace. Click to expand...

Bertramdriver

I would guess the alternatives would be polyester Flo coat (top coat), two pack polyeurathane, or single pack acrylic. On balance I would go with two pack polyeurathane simply because it offers the best balance between ease of application and hardness of finish. If you want to do something about condensation consider foam backed vinyl. A bitch to fit but worth the effort.  

Okay I'm not 100% it's gel coat - i'm still learning so I'll try give some more details. It's white and still has the texture of raw fibreglass that sort of chipboard look. You can see it's been painted over the fireglass. Oh and mold scrubs of it with a nylon brush fairly easy. What I'm trying to achieve - Improve the aesthetic and prevent a mold build up in the future? It doesn't have to be a completely smooth service when I'm finished but at the moment it's looking a bit shabby color wise. I'll look up flow-coat and foam backed vinyl and see if they're an option perhaps.  

louisderry said: Okay I'm not 100% it's gel coat - i'm still learning so I'll try give some more details. It's white and still has the texture of raw fibreglass that sort of chipboard look. You can see it's been painted over the fireglass. Oh and mold scrubs of it with a nylon brush fairly easy. Click to expand...

macd said: Then it's almost certainly flow-coat or even ordinary polyester resin (plus white pigment). If you wish to make it smoother still, I'd use more flow-coat rather than paint (primarily so as not to introduce another compound, less you should wish to tart it up some more in the future). By filling, fairing and coating it would be possible to make the finish completely smooth, although at the cost of a fair bit of effort: maybe something you'd want to do down the line. And don't ignore the need for ventilation: often the simplest means of reducing condensation. Click to expand...

louisderry said: Okay some good advice there cheers- So just to clear it up if there's a high chance it's flow-coat- and I'm wanting to add a new layer- would I just do a key and acetone and then apply like normal? Just to improve the color and protection as appose to smoothness. Click to expand...

louisderry said: So just to clear it up if there's a high chance it's flow-coat- and I'm wanting to add a new layer- would I just do a key and acetone and then apply like normal? Click to expand...

Well-known member

I have used ordinary gloss paint with no problems on several boats.  

peteK said: I have used ordinary gloss paint with no problems on several boats. Click to expand...

Clean it with sugar soap and paint it with bathroom paint as jacaldo says. I did my old boats forepeak that way five years ago and it is still clean and fresh.  

I'm a fan of Danboline for this sort of application. Easy to apply, good coverage, hard wearing and will provide protection against water, oil and some chemicals in bilge areas. Not a cosmetic finish though. http://www.yachtpaint.com/gbr/diy/products/finishes/danboline.aspx  

If you are going to live on the boat (or even if you're not) you need to kill the condensation. I've found the best way is glue on foil-backed bubble wrap then cover that with floor carpet(again glued on). I have lived on board for 11years , both in Scotland and here on the Algarve and it's worked for me.  

Ludd said: If you are going to live on the boat (or even if you're not) you need to kill the condensation. I've found the best way is glue on foil-backed bubble wrap then cover that with floor carpet(again glued on). I have lived on board for 11years , both in Scotland and here on the Algarve and it's worked for me. Click to expand...

AndrewB said: Sounds like a clever idea, but doesn't the bubble-wrap break down? Click to expand...

• 30 Mar 2015

I had this problem with my first sea boat. Although a pain, I bonded thin battens 14 x 14 onto the surface and then made up vinyl covered panels and screwed these on. Gave a very professional look, added insulation and therefore eliminated condensation and it was easy to keep clean. Max.  

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• A Comprehensive Guide to Painting Your Fiberglass Boat: Tips for a Stunning Finish

If you're the proud owner of a fiberglass boat, you understand the importance of preserving its beauty and durability. One of the most effective ways to achieve this is by painting your fiberglass boat using gel coat paint. This extensive guide will walk you through every step of the process, from grasping the fundamentals of gel coat paint to achieving a polished finish that will undoubtedly make heads turn on the water. Let's delve into the details! 

Introduction

Painting your fiberglass boat transcends aesthetics—it's a testament to maintaining your vessel's structural integrity and overall allure. Whether you're rectifying damages, altering hues, or rejuvenating your boat's look, adopting the right approach can redefine your boating experience.

Understanding Gel Coat Paint

Gel coat paint, a specialized medium designed for fiberglass surfaces, plays a pivotal role in your boat's visual appeal and safeguarding it against marine harshness. Unlike conventional paint, gel coat paint is a dense, pigmented resin renowned for its durability, UV resistance, and imperviousness to water and chemicals, making it the ideal choice for marine applications.

Preparation: Setting the Stage for Success

Before embarking on the painting journey, meticulous preparation is the cornerstone of a satisfactory outcome. This entails an exhaustive regimen of cleansing, sanding, repairing damages, and careful masking and taping.

Thorough Cleaning and Sanding

The process initiates with an extensive cleansing of your boat's exterior to eliminate dirt, grime, and pre-existing paint. Following the cleaning ritual, meticulous sanding with fine-grit sandpaper commences, ensuring a receptive and velvety surface for the paint to adhere to seamlessly.

Repairing Imperfections

A thorough scrutiny for fissures, chips, and dents is paramount. Address these issues with appropriate fillers, meticulously smoothing them out until they're harmonious with the surface, ensuring a uniform canvas for your artistic endeavor.

Precision in Masking and Taping

To prevent inadvertent paint application on undesired areas, meticulous masking and taping of components such as windows, metal fittings, and rubber elements is imperative.

Selecting the Right Paint for Your Boat

The choice of paint profoundly shapes your project's outcome. The pivotal decision rests between marine epoxy paint and gel coat paint.

Weighing Marine Epoxy Paint vs. Gel Coat Paint

While marine epoxy paint boasts exceptional adhesion and durability, gel coat paint transcends by endowing your boat with a radiant, glossy finish, unparalleled protection, and resistance to the elements.

Navigating Color Selection

Beyond personal preferences, contemplate the boat's overall aesthetics and its visibility on water. The color spectrum encompasses both practical considerations, like heat absorption, and the esthetic charm your boat will exude.

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The application process is an intricate choreography of priming and painting.

Laying the Foundation with Primer

Priming forms the bedrock of the process, forging a seamless bond between the gel coat and the boat's surface. Diligently adhere to the manufacturer's primer-specific guidelines.

Mastering the Application of Gel Coat Paint

Employ a brush or spray gun to apply the gel coat paint evenly. Sustain meticulousness by working on petite segments, guaranteeing a uniform thickness. Multiple thin coats surmount a singular, voluminous coat.

Striving for a Flawless, Uniform Finish

Beyond the initial application, utilize a roller or brush to facilitate paint smoothing and to eradicate air bubbles, a crucial step in achieving a splendid, even finish.

Drying and Curing: The Patience Payoff

Permit the gel coat paint the requisite drying duration, a span contingent on the specific product and environmental factors. Adequate ventilation during this phase is essential.

Buffing and Polishing: Unveiling the Lustrous Shine

Once the paint attains full maturation, a high-quality rubbing compound and a buffer unveil an unparalleled gleam, the epitome of professionalism.

Safeguarding the Splendor: Maintaining Your Painted Fiberglass Boat

Routine maintenance is pivotal in prolonging your boat's painted allure.

Regular Cleansing Rituals

Regular cleansing routines with mild soap thwart salt, dirt, and pollutants, preventing detriments that could erode the paint's charm.

Shielding Through Waxing and Protective Coatings

Coat your boat with marine wax or a protective sealant, erecting a barrier against UV rays, salt, and water. This ritual bolsters longevity and magnifies the paint's brilliance.

Addressing Common Queries About Painting Fiberglass Boats

Delve into common inquiries concerning the process.

Can You Handle the Painting Process Independently?

Certainly, given meticulous preparation and appropriate materials, embarking on a DIY journey is within reach.

Unveiling the Distinctions Between Gel Coat Paint and Standard Paint

Gel coat paint's specialized formulation and resilience differentiate it from conventional paint, providing enhanced protection and longevity.

Evaluating the Lifespan of Gel Coat Paint

Vigilant upkeep elongates gel coat paint's life. Exposure to exigent conditions and neglect can undermine its endurance.

Embracing Change: Modifying Your Boat's Color

Indeed, painting empowers you to reinvent your boat's identity and rejuvenate its charm.

Professional Assistance: Necessity or Luxury?

While a DIY approach is feasible, professional intervention ensures an impeccable finish, especially for intricate paint jobs.

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Painting a Fiberglass Boat: A Detailed Guide

20th sep 2023 by lenny rudow.

If you want to keep your boat looking as good as new but it’s in need of a facelift, few things will put on a fresh shine like a new coat of paint. But if you’ve done any research you may have already found that learning how to paint a fiberglass boat is not as straightforward as one might hope. There are a slew of paint types to choose from, very specific prep to do, and plenty of work ahead. In fact, whether you’re painting the entire craft or just putting on bottom paint, like any other form of maintenance or improvement, dealing with a fiberglass boat is very different from caring for a wooden boat or an aluminum boat. Ready to dig into the specifics?

Paints for Different Parts of a Boat

Your first choice will be paint selection based on which part of the boat you’ll be painting. Fiberglass boat hull paint used below the waterline usually has antifouling properties, while the paint used above the waterline is purely for protecting the fiberglass while looking nice and shiny. And then there are special paints used for surfaces you’ll walk on, as well.

Choosing antifouling fiberglass boat hull paint

Any boat that will sit in a wet slip needs bottom paint that’s antifouling. (If your boat sits in a lift or on a trailer, you can treat the bottom just as you do the hull above the waterline and skip to the next section). Antifouling paint uses a biocide to prevent growth from latching on, which can be cuprous oxide, zinc omadine, zinc pyrithione, thiocyanate, or Econia. However, some biocides are banned in certain areas and different formulations and concentrations may be more or less effective from one locality to another due to the localized environment. There’s no chart or table that can tell you what works best in your neck of the woods—your best bet is to ask around at nearby marinas, boat yards, and marine supply stores, and find out what the locals all use.

Then, you’ll have to choose between “hard” or “soft” paint formulations. Which will be best for you depends on your boat and how you use it. Boats that run at fast speeds and are used often generally perform best with a hard (non-sloughing) paint. The downside here is that after a few coats of paint go on through the years, the bottom will need to be stripped because of paint build-up. Soft (ablative) paints, on the other hand, wear away with time and use, and are best for boats that don’t travel over 35 or so mph on a regular basis.

There’s one caveat to keep in mind: ablative paints can be rubbed away when they contact a hard surface, so if you trailer your boat from time to time, hard paint may be a better bet no matter how fast nor how often the boat is used. Otherwise, your bottom paint will probably get rubbed off by the trailer bunks.

See our guide on  how to antifoul a boat .

Choosing boat paint for above the waterline

Above the waterline, you’ll be choosing between one-part or two-part polyurethane, enamels, and two-part acrylics. One-part polyurethanes are the easiest to work with, and the least expensive. If you’re looking to do a simple job and intend on painting fiberglass with a roller, it’s a great option. Two-part polyurethanes require more cost, prep time, mixing, and curing, and some must be sprayed as opposed to rolled on. However, they’re harder once cured so they tend to maintain their shine for longer and resist scratches better.

Acrylic urethane provides what many consider to be the finest, glossiest surface. However, its use has very specific requirements and repainting a fiberglass boat with this stuff is generally left to the professionals.

Enamels are easy to work with and can be brushed on, plus they’re less expensive than these other options. However, they don’t provide as glossy a surface nor last as long. Enamels are more often used on wood boats as opposed to fiberglass, since they can handle the shrinking and swelling of wood. If your boat is fiberglass, enamels will probably be considered only for inside the cabin or on wood trim.

Painting the Bottom of a Boat

Like most paint jobs, the secret to getting good results from your bottom paint is in doing good prep work. If there’s existing bottom paint in good shape you may be able to skip right to sanding, but if pre-existing paint is flaking and aged, first you’ll need to scrape and/or strip away the old stuff. If you’re unsure whether you need to go the extra mile or not, it’s a good idea to start by removing dirt, growth, and loose patches with a power washer and see how much paint flies off as you clean it. Note: paint stripper is dangerous stuff, so if a complete stripping job is necessary, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions thoroughly and follow them to a tee.

When all loose or aged paint is gone you’ll need to start sanding. Fortunately, there’s nothing special to learn when it comes to how to sand a fiberglass boat—it’s more or less like sanding any other surface. You should use power tools except for those few hard-to-reach surfaces you have to hit by hand. It’s also important to use a respirator, goggles, and a protective suit unless you think fiberglass dust is fun stuff to play with (it is not). In fact, sanding a fiberglass boat can be quite unpleasant and harmful to your health if you don’t thoroughly protect yourself.

When the surface is prepped, it’s time to mask off the borders of the waterline, transducers, running gear, and other items that you don’t want covered in paint. Then and only then can you begin applying the bottom paint. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions regarding roller or brush types, the thickness of each coat, and the number of coats to apply.

Painting a Fiberglass Boat Hull Above the Waterline

The prep and application will vary depending on which type of paint you choose. The manufacturer’s instructions should always be read and followed exactly, especially regarding primers and coats. That said, the basic procedures are more or less the same: first clean the surface thoroughly, remove any stains, and fill in any chips or scratches. Then mask off the waterline, rubrail, and any surfaces that aren’t to be painted. Sand thoroughly as per the manufacturer’s recommendations, then clean off all the dust. Finally, use a solvent and clean rags to wipe away all contaminants.

As for the actual application, again, go to the manufacturer’s instructions because different primers and paints have different requirements. The most common way to apply fiberglass boat hull paint above the waterline will be “brush and roll,” where one person rolls on the paint and another follows with a brush to even out the edges and overlaps. But check and check again before you get started.

Painting the Deck of a Boat

Painting the deck of a boat has one special consideration: you need to choose a paint with nonskid properties. Otherwise, you’ll turn the deck of your boat into a skating rink. Beyond that, the only other really critical item to keep in mind is that you’ll want to carefully mask off all items and surfaces that aren’t to be painted, because any errant paint that gets on trim or accessories will be in full view each and every time you’re on your boat.

Note: if your boat has molded-in nonskid, there really isn’t any good way to paint it while maintaining its look and feel. In most cases, you’re better served by covering it up with nonskid foam decking or having the decks professionally refinished.

Painting Inside a Boat Cabin

Painting a fiberglass boat interior will vary quite a bit from boat to boat, since they all have very different interiors. If your boat has a gel-coated fiberglass liner in the cabin, you can treat it exactly as you would the hull above the waterline. Since it isn’t exposed to the sun, however, using a complex, time-consuming, and expensive two-part paint probably isn’t necessary.

If your boat’s cabin has a different type of interior you’ll need to choose a paint and method accordingly. Again, however, remember that surfaces inside the enclosure aren’t subjected to the same level of UV radiation and weathering as the boat’s outside surfaces and special paints or applications generally aren’t necessary. 

Boat Painting Tips

Whew—we’ve covered a lot! But there are still more ins and outs to painting a boat. So we assembled this collection of helpful tips that will hopefully make the job go a bit smoother for you.

• Pull away the tape you used to protect items or mask off borders while the paint is still wet. This stuff sets up hard, and if you wait too long bits of the tape will rip off and remain embedded in the paint.
• It’s always best to have paints shaken on a machine, as opposed to trying to stir them. 
• If at all possible, try to paint your boat under cover. If this isn’t in the cards, wait for dew to evaporate before beginning the job and check the weather to make sure there’s no rain in the forecast.
• Remember that two-part polyurethanes cannot be painted over one-part polyurethanes—but they can be painted over pre-existing two-part polyurethanes. One-part polyurethanes can be painted over either one-part or two-part polyurethanes.
• Whenever you’re painting over fresh fiberglass, it must be thoroughly de-waxed. Just to be safe, de-waxing twice is recommended.
• Work on filling in scratches, dings, and chips prior to painting. Fresh paint won’t cover those up, and in some cases, may even make them easier to see.
• Always check temperature and humidity levels before getting to work, and make sure they’re within the manufacturer’s recommended parameters.
• Once your new paint job is complete, give all the glossy surface a thorough wax job and keep up with waxing the boat on a regular basis. A thick coat of wax will help protect the surface and keep it gleaming for years.

Now get out there and gather up plenty of sandpaper, rags, brushes, and rollers. Because anyone researching how to refinish a fiberglass boat will quickly land on a fresh paint job as one of the most impactful ways they can make that old boat look new again.

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Written By: Lenny Rudow

With over three decades of experience in marine journalism, Lenny Rudow has contributed to dozens of boating and fishing publications and websites. Rudow lives in Annapolis, Maryland, and is currently Angler in Chief at Rudow’s FishTalk ; he is a past president of Boating Writers International (BWI), a graduate of the Westlawn School of Yacht Design, and has won numerous BWI and OWAA writing awards.

More from: Lenny Rudow

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Painting Raw Fiberglass Interior

• Thread starter Steven
• Start date Mar 30, 2004
• Hunter Owner Forums
• Ask A Hunter Owner

I have removed the interior carpet from my Hunter 23 and plan to paint the interior. I am not sure if sanding or filling is the better approach to smooth the fiberglass grains for a nice painting surface? If filling is the way to go what is a light filler that will hold up? Featherfil looks promising but I would like something that can be rolled/brushed on. If you have any ideas as to what would work best please help me get started on the right foot.Thanks-Steven  

A couple of options I have that ugly fuzzy adhesive upholstery stuff on my boat and am scraping it all down to bare 'glass for painting. I can suggest these things from experience:1. New fuzzy stuff. There is also a very sleek white vinyl over 1/4" closed-cell foam that is nice to snuggle against. Be sure any foam you install is CLOSED-CELL (so it will not soak up water). This can be had at any place specialising in marine upholstery. You can glue it on with mild contact cement (roll on with brush) or even just flooring glue (which is even non-toxic).2. Gelcoat. Just slosh it on with a decent throw-away 3- or 4-inch brush. It is thick enough to mostly fill the hollows and, better still, will chemically seal the raw fibreglass surface as to prohibit saturation from sweat, slime, salt, etc. Prep the area by sloshing styrene or acetone over it with a rag (this is the nastiest part, but the most crucial part) and work quickly but carefully with the gelcoat.3. Easiest-- latex paint. No kidding. Again, prep the area well, vacuum thoroughly, and use a big thick brush. We used to use a thick dark-brown latex house paint on the inside of the Cherubini 44 hulls before attaching the 'ceiling' --those varnished fir strips that formed the backs of settees and bunks. Worked just fine, bonded extremely well after washing down with acetone first.Going to all that work to fill the hollows in the fibreglass lay-up seems like a waste to me. The boat is fibreglass and is going to look like it. All you really need is a presentable and properly-sealed surface to look at. I can't see the point in having a sterile moulded-and-gelcoated white finish for the inside of the hull.JC 2  

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A Primer on Painting a Fiberglass Boat

• By Lenny Rudow
• March 9, 2022

Painting a fiberglass boat is a bit different from painting a house or a car, but any relatively handy DIY boat owner can get the job done. And once it’s done, the boat should gleam like never before. So, just how does one paint a fiberglass boat? The process breaks down into three basic steps:

• Choosing the right paint
• Prepping the surface to be painted
• Applying the paint

Choosing the Right Paint for a Fiberglass Boat

Paint for boats is very different from the paint one would use for other jobs, and when painting a boat you may even need to use more than one kind. The best paint for use on the hullsides and gelcoat is very different from the paint used for decks, and antifouling paint used on the hull bottom is yet another different variety.

Paints with shiny finishes for use on gel-coated areas include single-part enamels, single-part polyurethanes and two-part polyurethanes. Single-part enamels are used most commonly because they’re easy to apply and inexpensive. Single-part polyurethanes are also easily applied and their shine lasts longer, but they’re more expensive. Two-part polyurethane paint looks as good, or even better, than a boat’s original gelcoat when applied properly, and most people would agree that they provide the best overall results. However, they’re significantly more expensive than the other options, require special primers, have to be carefully mixed and can only be applied in the proper temperature and humidity ranges.

Paints used for decks and other surfaces that regularly see footsteps include some non-slip properties, often in the form of tiny rubberized pellets or beads. These paints won’t give you the blindingly bright finish of the ones used on a boat’s hull sides, but they are generally very easy to apply and provide a grippy surface.

Bottom paints with antifouling characteristics are entirely different. There are countless versions to choose from, but they boil down to “hard” paints and “soft” (ablative) paints. Hard paints are usually best for boats that are performance-oriented, but paint buildup can become a long-term issue. Ablative paints wear away as the boat gets used, but if a boat sits motionless in the slip for weeks or months at a time, it can lose its effectiveness. In both cases, a biocide is mixed in with the paint to prevent marine growth. Different bottom paints work better in different environments, and specific types may be regulated or even banned in certain waterways, so before choosing a bottom paint it’s best to consult with a professional in your specific area and find out what they recommend.

Prepping a Fiberglass Boat to be Painted

Regardless of which part of the boat you’re painting, or what type of paint you use, a general rule of thumb is always remember two critical things: the prep job is the most important part of any paint job, and follow the manufacturer’s recommended prep procedure because certain different products can have different specific requirements. That said, in all cases the paint preparation consists of:

• Fixing any scratches, gouges, or cracks. Remember, a fresh coat of paint won’t cover up imperfections, but instead is more likely to increase their visibility.
• Washing the entire boat from stem to stern to remove all contaminants.
• Protecting all hardware and/or fittings with painter’s tape, or removing it from the boat entirely, so you don’t accidentally damage or paint over stainless-steel, plastic, or wood items.
• Dewaxing all areas that have been exposed to wax.
• Thoroughly sanding and/or stripping the surface(s) to be painted, as per the paint manufacturer’s instructions.
• Cleaning away all sanding dust and/or stripping chemicals and materials.
• Applying the primer (if necessary, as per the manufacturer’s instructions).

Applying Paint to a Fiberglass Boat

With the prep work completed, it’s time to apply the paint. At this point, we’re going to say this one more time: follow the manufacturer’s recommended procedures. Each paint has its own application and curing characteristics, and it’s critical to do as the instructions suggest. That said, most glossy-surface paints can be applied with the standard roll-and-tip method of using a roller to apply to large surfaces, followed by using a brush to smooth out the paint. This is most effective when two people work in tandem, one with the roller and the other following along behind them with the brush. In the case of non-skid or bottom paints, it may not even be necessary and simply rolling it on then touching up the edges with a brush should do the trick.

After allowing the paint to dry or cure, you’ll probably want to paint on an additional coat or two. In most cases, two to three coats will be in order and always remember that multiple thin coats of paint generally tend to look a lot better than fewer, thicker coats.

If you’ve painted over a gel-coated area with a shiny finish paint, there’s one more step to add to the procedure. Once the final coat is dry, give it a couple of coats of a thick paste wax. This will go a long way in protecting that paint, and help ensure that your boat looks shiny and new for years to come.

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Painting a Fiberglass Boat – A Simple Guide...

Painting a fiberglass boat – a simple guide.

When it comes to fiberglass, there’s good news and there’s bad news. The good news: fiberglass is a strong material that’s ideal for boats in many ways, helping you get decades of enjoyment out of a single boating purchase. The bad news: fiberglass is so durable that it often outlives its own paint job. That means you’re likely going to need to have your boat painted or re-painted if you want it to continue looking its best throughout its lifetime. Here are our tips painting a fiberglass boat.

Step One: Clear the Way

Consider purchasing our Solvent & Cleaner for this step. This cleans out your boat’s surface if you have any uncured polysulfide sealant, for example, and is safe to use on fiberglass.

Once you have the wax safely removed, you can use the opportunity to repair any dings along the fiberglass with Fix Repair Putty. Smooth it out and give it ample time to cure—the putty can be painted over easily. Keep in mind: you may have to use a power sander to fully smooth out the putty before painting.

Step Two: Apply the Primer

Getting paint to adhere to fiberglass for the long haul will require priming. Once your area is safe, clean, and dry, apply the primer (sometimes called a “tie coat”) over the gel coat. You can use either a brush or a roller for this, but the goal is to have a thin, even coat of primer everywhere on the fiberglass where you’ll end up painting.

Step Three: Paint

Finally, it’s time to paint. When painting a fiberglass boat that is smaller, you should generally be able to handle this yourself. Keep in mind, however, that many professionals will use multiple painters to ensure proper coverage and a thin, even coat. Typically, the first painter will use a roller to apply the paint while the second painter uses a tool such as a brush to give the coat its proper finish. If you’re doing the painting yourself, keep in mind that the goal is simple: a consistent coat.

Now comes one of the most difficult parts: waiting. Your boat should be in a well-protected, dry area for the time being.

Step Four: Wax

Only once your new coat of paint is dry will you be able to apply a product like Life Wax for its long-term protection. After your wax is applied, your boat should be freshly painted and protected from issues like the sun and debris.

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Browse the rest of our dedicated boat cleaning and maintenance products to find the essential materials to help keep your boat looking great. That will leave you free to enjoy a healthy fiberglass hull—painted in a vivid color—for years to come.

Note: Always follow manufacturer’s instructions and always test on sealants for compatibility prior to painting the whole boat.

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Fiberglass Boat Painting DIY Made Easy: Prep, Paint and Top Coat

How to paint your hull using the roll-and-tip method.

Finished job, ice blue Awlgrip, on a Prowler 30. Original color was Navy blue.

The Florida sun can take a toll on gelcoat shine. Leave it unattended for too long, and you may need more than wet sanding and buffing to bring it back. If the cost of a professional job is not in your budget, painting your boat yourself may be the best option.

Let's look at painting the sides of your boat using the roll-and tip method. This same process would apply if you wanted to paint the entire hull, but that's a much larger project and with a lot more prepwork involved.

IT'S ALL IN THE PREP

This is the most important step. Start by sanding the area you want to paint with 320 grit sandpaper. A DA (dual-action) sander works best for this. Use a 6-inch round pad if you have an air driven sander or a 5-inch round pad if using an electric sander. What you want to do is remove oxidation and rough up the surface so the primer can adhere. Don't over sand; strive for a smooth, uniform finish.

Rinse the hull with clean water, no soap, and let air dry. To remove any remaining sanding dust or surface contaminants, wipe the hull sides down with Awlgrip Awl Prep cleaner and a clean rag. Using painters tape and plastic sheeting, cover areas of the boat you do not intend to paint or may drip paint on. Take special care to tape closely around thru-hull fittings, eyes and other hardware.

PRIME AND SEAL

My primer of choice is Awlgrip 545 Epoxy Primer D8001 and D3001 converter. Refer to the Awlgrip website for the proper mixing ratios for this or any other Awlgrip primer you may use. The application is basically the same as the final finish paint and it will give you some confidence with the procedure.

Mix the amount of product based on the square footage of the area you can comfortably paint within the pot life of the primer, once mixed. Typically, I mix what I can apply in about an hour. Pour the mixed primer into a roller pan and using a foam roller nap, apply the primer to the hull side.

Assuming you're painting from the rubrail down to the waterline, roll out the primer from the bottom of the rail all the way down to the bottom edge. Only paint approximately three feet in length at a time. Immediately after rolling the paint, use the tip of the paint brush and gently stroke the wetted surface the full length of the area you just rolled. Start at the top and work your way to the bottom.

As you move down the hull's length, use the same procedure and overlap the previous painted area by a few inches. Roll first, then tip with the brush. As you brush out the surface, drag your paint brush from the newly painted area onto the previously painted area, just a bit past the overlap. Continue down the hull to your stopping point. Typically, the bow to the stern transom corner.

Recommended

Allow the primer to dry a minimum of overnight. Using 320 grit sandpaper and a DA sander, go over the primed areas to knock off the gloss and smooth out any runs in the product. Here again, don't over sand, you don't want to sand through the primer.

Wipe down the hull again with Awlprep and you're ready to apply the final finish.

TOPCOAT COLOR

The most forgiving paint I've found for the roll-and-tip process is Awlgrip Top Coat. It's a polyester urethane product and dries to a hard, durable shine. Instead of attempting to apply one thick coat, it's best to apply two to three lighter coats. The paint will be less apt to run or sag.

The paint is a three-part product of Awlgrip Top Coat, Awlgrip reducer and Awlcat #3 converter. Refer to Awlgrip's website for proper mix ratios.

Roll and brush the paint in the same manner as the primer. Work your way around the hull with the same overlaps and remember to drag from the newly painted area onto the previously painted areas. Allow each layer to dry overnight and for best results, sand in between each layer of paint with 400 grit wet and dry sandpaper. Sand lightly—you're only wanting the dull the surface, not sand off much product.

OPTIONAL FINAL STEP

After the second or third layer of paint, most people stop there and are ready to return the boat to service. But, if you're trying to achieve the same finish as if the paint were sprayed, you can wet sand and buff the final layer. You will need a 6-inch DA air sander and 800 grit wet and dry sandpaper. Here again, you're only wanting to dull the surface to remove any sags or brush marks that didn't flow out on their own. A spray bottle with water will keep the hull wet as work your way around the hull. Follow up the wet sanding by buffing the paint with a 1000 grit buffing compound and then again with a 2000 grit buffing compound. FS

PRODUCT LIST

• Awlgrip Top Coat Paint: Gallon Snow White $171.79
• AwlGrip Reducer: Gallon T0031 Brushing Reducer $61.14
• Awlgrip Awl Cat #3 Converter: Half Gallon H3001 Brushing Converter $171.15
• Awl Prep Cleaner: Gallon T0170 Awlprep 400 Wipe Down Solvent $35.70
• AwlGrip 545 Expoxy Primer D8001: Gallon $110.05
• AwlGrip D3001 Converter: $103.60
• Sandpaper 320 Grit: 320 9x11 $18.79 a sleeve
• Sandpaper 400 Grit: 400 9x11 $24.18 a sleeve
• Painters Tape: 1.88” 3m Blue painter's Tape $8.68 a roll
• Plastic Sheeting: 1.5 mil 20x200 plastic $51.54
• Gloves: Nitrile 5 mil gloves $8.86 a box
• Rags: 5# box is $10.55
• 8” Roller Frame: 9” linzer roller cage $2.47
• 2.5” paint brush (a tapered edge, camel hair brush): 2.5” Corona Urethaner $8.00
• 8” foam roller naps: 9” slicker #3.43
• Paint roller tray: metal roller tray $3.22 Tray Liner $.55
• Mixing sticks
• Mixing buckets: 2.5 quart mixing bucket $1.58 a piece
• 800 grit wet and dry sandpaper: $28.23 a piece
• 1000 grit buffing compound: Aquabuff 1000 gallon $53.09
• 2000 grit buffing compound: Aquabuff 2000 gallon $51.47

Next: We install a new rubrail.

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Painting a fiberglass floor

• Thread starter 1504 mustang
• Start date Aug 19, 2010

1504 mustang

• Aug 19, 2010

I recently purchased a 1971 Sea Star 14' runabout style boat, it had the typical outdoor carpet glued to the floor. Well it is peeling up, and smells like gas really bad so I pulled it out. I was looking at re-carpeting and did not really like any fo the outdor carpet I saw. Can the fiberglass floor be painted with some type of textured paint? I am sure someone has done this before any adivce would be great.  

Re: Painting a fiberglass floor Here is what I'll be using on mine once I finish the fiberglass: http://www.iboats.com/Skid-No-More/dm/*******.506284658--**********.718967341--view_id.38024  

Re: Painting a fiberglass floor Sure, there has been truck bed liner used, Gel coat, and various other types of monolithic substrates applied to the floors of many boats here. Right now, I'm pondering what to do with my bare glass floor.  

Re: Painting a fiberglass floor I went with the Glidden Porch and patio polyurethane oil gloss paint, with the Behr traction additive. Both are available at Home Depot. The results were really quite good. Definitely a no-slip surface, and it looks really good. Time will tell if it is durable but at $22 a gallon (my 15' bowrider took less than the one gallon to do two coats up to the gunwales, with a bit left for touch ups) its definitely an affordable alternative. -E  

Re: Painting a fiberglass floor Eric, did you sue a primer first or just roll on the porch paint? NYBo, do you nee d to use a primer with the Skid-No-More product? I would like to save money if I can but really dont want to have to do the project twice.  

• Aug 20, 2010

1504 mustang said: Eric, did you sue a primer first or just roll on the porch paint? Click to expand...

Re: Painting a fiberglass floor Thanks Eric, sounds simple enough, and $22 bucks fits the budget! This is a bare fiberglass floor, no paint on it, I will have to spend some quality time in there getting the adhesive off and degreasing. Previous owner had a leaky gas can. Glad you mentioned not adding the additive till the second coat, I would have thought it should be mixed in for both.  

Petty Officer 1st Class

Re: Painting a fiberglass floor After I repaired and re-fiberglass (vinyl ester resin) my deck, I sanded and used the stuff Cabela's sell with the rubber bits pre-mixed in. I bought the small qt size first and painted a few non-boat surfaces to check it out and was please by the way the bit evenly distributed and the ease of brushing. So I buy the gallon size and it was a nightmare to evenly spread, brush and roller. The bits settled out too fast. Even tried to use smaller cans, but was not pleased with the evenness and consistance of the bits. For the second coat, I really didn't need more bits, but they don't offer a bitless version. Filtering thru cheese cloth and allowing to settle didn't work. May have been a lot of my fault, as I didn't use the recommended roller. Ended up carpeting over it.  

Re: Painting a fiberglass floor Eric, How did to apply the additive, mix in the paint or broadcast in the wet paint?  

tboltmike said: Eric, How did to apply the additive, mix in the paint or broadcast in the wet paint? Click to expand...

Re: Painting a fiberglass floor I decided i would use a product called Sani-Tred because it stays flexible and is supposed to be very durable. I plan to and non skid texture graduals to the floor only in a diamond pattern. The stuff is expensive and i can not comment on how it wears because I am still sanding and have not applied yet maybe next week it will be finished. http://www.sanitred.com/  

1504 mustang said: NYBo, do you nee d to use a primer with the Skid-No-More product? Click to expand...

BuzzStPoint

Lieutenant junior grade.

• Aug 21, 2010

Re: Painting a fiberglass floor After I fiberglassed my deck. I bought standard rustomlium. Mixed a little bit of thinner in it. 2 Coats. Going strong so far.  

• Apr 22, 2012

eavega said: I went with the Glidden Porch and patio polyurethane oil gloss paint, with the Behr traction additive. Both are available at Home Depot. The results were really quite good. Definitely a no-slip surface, and it looks really good. Time will tell if it is durable but at $22 a gallon (my 15' bowrider took less than the one gallon to do two coats up to the gunwales, with a bit left for touch ups) its definitely an affordable alternative. -E Click to expand...

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Another Fantastic Interior Remodel on an Old Sailboat

• Add to quote

First Sailing Uma, now this Danish guy. Maybe it's just me, but I find white on a sailboat interior, to just work wonders for the livability, sense of airiness and space. It's brighter, more modern. And just look at the details. For a budget operation, this guy did a fantastic job. I think if the 31 foot boat I looked at last week had an interior like this, I would have had an entirely different view on its livability!  

For a bit there I was thinking 30ft would be too small for me. Now I'm not so sure. I would definitely like to be in his shoes in this video!  

I agree on the brightness, but I’m overwhelmed by a no-frills feeling. It reminds me of research vessels, so I guess institutional is another associated word. The wood trim offsets that some, but I prefer the reverse...mostly wood with some white to break it up.  

SuperC said: I agree on the brightness, but I'm overwhelmed by a no-frills feeling. It reminds me of research vessels, so I guess institutional is another associated word. The wood trim offsets that some, but I prefer the reverse...mostly wood with some white to break it up. Click to expand...

Matter of taste.. Wood interiors are vestiges from when boats were not being made with fiberglass. Wood is a sensible material for trim regardless of what the joinery panels are made from. It can be contrast wood color/grain or painted as the (plywd) panels are. Wood finish is more forgiving to wear.... though probably more difficult to make a cosmetic repair. Plastic laminate is quite durable and it comes in solids and wood grain. Heck bulkheads are plywood and the face is a "veneer" usually... wood or laminate or a painted. They say wood is cozier.... like a paneled den or something, Few boats will have ALL wood interiors... usually some contrast on the head liner. Many like the interior to be darker to escape and contrast from the brightness of being in the cockpit.  

SanderO said: Many like the interior to be darker to escape and contrast from the brightness of being in the cockpit. Click to expand...

No boat here. Just beginning to learn to sail on dinghies w no interior at all. I’ve been doing all the online shopping for our dream, though, so my perspective isn’t real-world. I guess I should add that I really like the look of the newer cats w lots of white interior because they feel more like an apartment on land than does a monohull, although they are well out of our price range. And mono with a deck saloon seems like it would be bright and roomy no matter the finishes. Ultimately, yes, it is absolutely taste specific. And the advice I keep seeing is get on the boats to see what kind of layout you like. COVID just makes that hard :-(  

SuperC said: No boat here. Just beginning to learn to sail on dinghies w no interior at all. I've been doing all the online shopping for our dream, though, so my perspective isn't real-world. I guess I should add that I really like the look of the newer cats w lots of white interior because they feel more like an apartment on land than does a monohull, although they are well out of our price range. And mono with a deck saloon seems like it would be bright and roomy no matter the finishes. Ultimately, yes, it is absolutely taste specific. And the advice I keep seeing is get on the boats to see what kind of layout you like. COVID just makes that hard :-( Click to expand...

White with varnished wood trim is the Herreshoff style (named after Herreshoff who designed his interiors this way). It was popular even in the wooden boat days. It is only a matter of preference. Personally, I prefer this style, but can also appreciate fine varnished interiors. Mark  

Yeah it's surprising how a little white, especially on the roof, can brighten things up and make the space feel larger. Also that's a nice layout BTW. I like the aft forward facing heads a lot. And the open aft quarter birth looks a lot nicer and more usable when its open like that, unlike so many others that are dark little enclosed 'caves'. Nice boat!  

Attachments

SanderO said: My interior is all teak.. but the headline is white gel coat GRP... easy to maintain... What I am not crazy about is the carpet bits above the cabinets applied to the inside of the top sided. I can't think of a good alternative material... except maybe white plastic laminate... or maybe a light quilted/padded fabric. View attachment 137121 Click to expand...

I think a white ceiling might just be added to my official boat criteria ;-) This is starting to look mandatory!  

Automobile headliner material might do the trick. Easy to work with  

this??? LUVFABRICS Champion Diamond Quilted Faux Leather Vinyl Foam Backed- Automotive, Headliner, Furniture Upholstery, DIY Projects, Headboards, Home Decor & More! 54" Wide (White)  

Back in the heyday of boatbuilding, there were different priorities to designing. Racing was far more popular than it is now, and the creature comforts were pretty great for the time. But we've changed how we use our boats now, the uses are far more individual tastes. It's a tough one for builders. Not many people buy new boats, the easiest avenue for builders is to design for the charter market I imagine. There may be a time when scarcity of boats leads to renovations akin to old houses. I think that has already begun, but it may accelerate in the near future. It's hard for many to come up with $50,000 for a boat in fine order. So the option is to spend $20,000 on a fixer upper and perhaps put $10,000 a year towards it to get it where you like it. In the end, you'll spend a lot more than that $50,000 for the boat in good spec, but that wasn't an option, so you spread out the costs over the years, not unlike any big purchase that would be financed - sort of a mortgage to oneself.  

Ninefingers said: Back in the heyday of boatbuilding, there were different priorities to designing. Racing was far more popular than it is now, and the creature comforts were pretty great for the time. But we've changed how we use our boats now, the uses are far more individual tastes. It's a tough one for builders. Not many people buy new boats, the easiest avenue for builders is to design for the charter market I imagine. There may be a time when scarcity of boats leads to renovations akin to old houses. I think that has already begun, but it may accelerate in the near future. It's hard for many to come up with $50,000 for a boat in fine order. So the option is to spend $20,000 on a fixer upper and perhaps put $10,000 a year towards it to get it where you like it. In the end, you'll spend a lot more than that $50,000 for the boat in good spec, but that wasn't an option, so you spread out the costs over the years, not unlike any big purchase that would be financed - sort of a mortgage to oneself. Click to expand...

Weekend use, and a weeks use is different than longterm The post about 10 people eating is spot on Nobody would keep that ongoing for long You become creative with storage  

Pretty much everything you want to do with a boat, I have done or am about to do. On my old CS27, I added a connecting insert between the two setees. It made the entire center of the cabin into a queen sized bed. Roll off one side for the washroom, and the other side for the fridge/kitchen. I did this in this the 4th year of ownership, and it very significantly changed the boat. It became a lounge area during the day with throw cushions for me and my dog. I never slept in the v-birth again. Often I would leave the insert in place for days at a time, and then chuck it in the v-birth when I took guests out. I had it proffesionaly upholstered for a whopping $200 bucks. Just some 3/4" ply and foam. On my new boat I will be trying to move the head to the aft quarter - we shall see if I have the room, (Tartan 34). I get it in a couple weeks, (I have not seen it in person). I don't have a picture of the insert, but here is the salon. A back cushion filled the left cavity and the new insert (about 2' x 5') filled the middle. FYI floor is laminate instead of the old wood. I also moved the sink and added a bench to the cockpit. I am a carpenter, so it was more or less professionally done by me. The previous owner spent about $25,000 plus around 1000 hours of his own time. It is a legendary CS27 with it's own 200 page website, (which is down now, working with the old owner to get it back it up maybe). I spent about $15,000 on it. I sold it for $10,000 US a month ago, (same as I paid for it). Ravat is her name. EDIT: I stand corrected, the blog is back up: The CS27 Ravat Chronicles . The dates are off by 7 years due to reposting I guess.  

Can you share the name of those boats ?!  

The first is an old Northshore 27 that had an extensive refit by Jerry Hendrey of Careening Cove Boat Brokerage & Slipway in Sydney. He then called it an Ultimate 270. The second image is just something I found online some time ago. No idea what the boat is. The third image is an Alerion Express 28. The circular bulkhead with sliding doors is a Dragonfly 25 trimaran. The modern interior is a B60.  

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