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SANTANA 20 TUNING GUIDE

The following tuning guide is meant to be a good starting point in setting up your boat. Depending on your crew weight, strength, sailing style and local conditions, you may have to alter your rig tune slightly. As you read this, write down any questions you may have, and we will be happy to discuss them with you in more detail.

Our main goal is to help you achieve a rig setup that is fast in all conditions; upwind, reaching and running, and is very easy to adjust or change gears while sailing. Your new North sails are designed around this all-purpose philosophy.

It is important to mark all your shrouds, sheets, halyards, tracks, outhaul, backstay, etc. Keep records of your tuning setups, the conditions you sail in, and how your speed is. It is essential to be able to duplicate settings from race to race, and also to know exactly how the boat was set up when you were going fast. Experiment during practice races and clinics.

TUNING AT THE DOCK

Rake setting: 51”.

Once the mast is up, attach your jib or spinnaker halyard to the tack and tighten. Disconnect the forestay and bring back to the mast. Pull the forestay tight along the front of the mast and with a black marker, make a mark on the forestay at the location of the   bottom of the black band . This should be 22” above the bottom of the mast. Mark the 22” spot on the mast if your band isn’t in the right place. Re-connect the forestay, apply enough backstay tension to straighten the forestay and measure from the black mark to the center of the forestay pin.

If you are sailing really light on crew weight, and the breeze is up you might want to go around 50”

Why do it this way? Because it’s the most accurate way and the measurement is the same for new and old style decks.

Next, make sure the top of the mast is centered in the boat. To do this place a pencil mark on the port and starboard rails at equidistant aft of the tack fitting at about 10” forward of the shrouds. Make sure your lower shrouds and aft lower shrouds are loose. With the upper shrouds hand tight hoist a tape measure on the Genoa halyard and measure from the Genoa halyard block to the pencil marks. Keep measuring side to side and tightening or loosening the upper shrouds until the tip is centered.

Hand tension each forward lower until they are evenly tensioned. Sight up the mast track on the aft side of the mast to see if it’s straight from side to side. You’ll find it helpful to take the main halyard and hold it stretched tight centered just above the gooseneck in the mainsail track. Use the wire as a straight-line reference with the track. Tighten or loosen the forward lower shrouds until the middle of the mast is in column with the mast tip.

We recommend investing in a Loos Tension Gauge Model PT-1. This gauge can hang on the shroud as it is adjusted and won’t stretch out like the Model A gauge.

Using the tension gauge adjust the upper shrouds to the base setting of 25 and the lower shroud to 20.   Once the mast is centered it is important to take the same amount of turns on the port and starboard shrouds while adjusting tension in order to keep the mast centered. If the port and starboard spreader tips are at different heights above the deck, the mast will not be straight side to side or the shrouds will have different tension from the port side compared to the starboard side.

The aft lowers should be attached to an adjustable track, because adjustment of these throughout the race is essential. First make sure the backstay is released. If they are attached to a track make sure they are evenly set and when trimmed to maximum tension they invert the mast by at least 3 1/4 to 3 1/2 “.

Rig Settings

* Denotes one full turn of the turnbuckle barrel using standard open body turnbuckles.

Set up the rig at the base setting before you leave the dock, adjust the rig as conditions change but remember to keep track of any changes. Just to make sure there is no confusion, all the changes reflect turns on or off from the base setting – not from the previous setting. Also, mark your deck with an arrow and a ‘T’ for the tightening direction and replace any cotter rings/pins with turnbuckle nuts – they’re much easier to adjust!

UPWIND TRIM

Light air (0-5 knots).

In these conditions keeping the boat moving fast and not worrying about pointing makes bigger gains around the racetrack. Therefore set the boat up to maximize boat speed instead of pointing ability.

The golden rule in all conditions is “If you want to point you have to be going fast first!”. In light air set your sails up for maximum power.

First set the aft lowers at a position so the mast is perfectly straight yet there is enough tension that when the backstay is pulled the mast will not bend down low. Get in a habit of sighting up the backside of the mast to see how the mast is bending. Next, sheet in the main sheet so that the top batten cups slightly to windward. Now pull the backstay until the top of the mast bends enough to allow the top batten to twist to leeward so that it is parallel with the boom. Make sure the telltale on the top batten is not stalled. The small amount of backstay tension will provide the correct amount of headstay sag. The boom vang should be eased all the way and the traveler pulled to weather enough so the lower battens are just to leeward of the backstay. The outhaul should be 1-2” from maximum. The more chop there is, the looser the outhaul should be set. The cunningham should be pulled on just enough to remove major wrinkles from the luff.

Tension the genoa halyard enough to remove the luff wrinkles. This will pull the draft forward and open the leech of the sail. With the draft forward the boat will be easier to steer. The open leech will help air flow across the sail without stalling. The foot of the genoa should be 3-4” from the shroud turnbuckle, and the leech should be 2-3” from the spreader tip. Make sure the leech lines are eased.

Remember in these conditions keep your head out of the boat and sail towards better wind velocity on the course.

Light to Medium Air (6-12 Knots)

These conditions call for a good amount of power as well as the ability to point.

The aft lowers should be set at their medium position which puts 1” – 1 ¾” inverse bend into the lower section of the mast. Determine the medium air backstay setting by using the same technique as described for light air. The traveler should be pulled to weather with the boom on centerline to help the boat point, but eased to leeward if too much weather helm is felt or if the boat starts to heel too much.

The outhaul should be eased ½” from the maximum position. The cunningham should be pulled tight enough to remove all wrinkles from the luff. The boom vang should be pulled in just enough to snug up the line (preset for downwind). Start with the main sheet set with the top batten parallel to the boom. If your boat speed is good and you want to point higher, try pulling harder on the mainsheet and stall the top batten telltale 50-80% of the time. Beware, if your speed starts dropping off ease the mainsheet.

Set the halyard so some wrinkles show in the luff of the genoa. This will flatten the genoa entry and move the draft aft in the sail, allowing for more power and higher pointing. Set the leads so the foot is 1” – 2” from the shroud turnbuckle and the leech is 2-3” from the spreader tip.

Medium to Heavy Air (13-18 Knots)

Once the wind has reached this level, it is time to start thinking about de-powering the sails to keep the boat from healing too much.

The aft lowers should be set tighter with 3 ¼” – 3 ½” of inverse bend. This allows more backstay to be pulled on letting the top of the main twist to leeward, while at the same time placing more tension on the forestay which improves pointing and flattens the genoa. In order to determine backstay tension, pull the main sheet in enough so that the top batten twists to windward even while the backstay is at it’s medium setting. Then pull just enough backstay to let the top batten twist to leeward about 15 degrees. The cunningham should be pulled tight enough to remove all wrinkles from the luff. The boom vang should be tightened enough to hold the boom down at its sheeted height even without mainsheet tension. The outhaul should be at its maximum position.

These conditions are at the upper wind range for the genoa. The decision to switch to the small jib will depend on crew weight, consistency of the wind and waves. Choose the size of your headsail based on the strength of the wind during the lulls. The larger the waves the larger a headsail needed to power through them. If the Genoa is used tighten the halyard to move the draft forward and open the leech. Set the leads so the foot is against the shroud turnbuckle and the leech is 4” – 5” from the spreader tip. To de-power twist the Genoa by easing the sheet 1” – 2”.

Remember the tighter the aft-lowers and backstay are, the tighter the forestay is and therefore the flatter the Genoa.

The crossover to using the class jib can be found in this wind range. Lighter crews, or sailing in flatter water can allow you to go to the small jib and still be fast.

Keep the leads forward and don’t strap the jib in! The S-20 likes to be rolled up to speed and a strapped headsail won’t get you there!

We also recommend a 2:1 jib sheet system. The sheet should be dead-ended at the jib car, go through the jib clew, through the jib block then back to the Genoa ratchet and up to the weather side. This makes adjustments to the jib easy while trimming from the high side.

Note:   The 13-18 knot range of apparent wind can really separate the fleet. Make sure the boat is tuned for the conditions and the headsail. The key is to keep the boat moving fast and pointing high, you should roll the boat up to speed and keep the weather tell tales at about 45 degrees for maximum VMG to weather.

Heavy Air (19+ Knots)  

In these conditions the sails need to be flattened as much as possible and set up so the boat is as easy as possible to steer.

Pull the aft lowers on to their maximum setting of 4” of inverse bend. Tension the backstay in the same manner as in the 13-18 knot conditions, except that 20 degrees of twist is desired. Begin vang sheeting by pulling the boom vang on hard, which bends the lower section of the mast thereby flattening the lower part of the main. The cunningham should be pulled in enough to remove all wrinkles and move the draft forward. Set the outhaul at its maximum setting. Let the traveler all the way down to the edge of the cockpit.

If the boat is still overpowered with the top batten inverted and the main flogging it’s time to go into super twist mode. Pull the traveler all the way up past centerline and ease the mainsheet so the boom is on centerline. Keep the aft lowers, backstay and vang snug. The outhaul can be eased ½” for power in the lower section of the main.

The jib should be sheeted to tracks mounted on the round cabin top inside of the shrouds. The track should have a sheeting angle of 11° off centerline. To find this angle measure horizontally 19 ½” outboard from centerline behind the mast. This is where the jib track should be installed.

Pull the jib halyard tight enough to remove the wrinkles in the luff. Set the jib so the top tell-tales break slightly before the lower tell-tales. If the boat need a little bit more power, move the jib lead forward to give the bottom of the sail some depth and sheet the sail so the leech is pointing straight aft. To de-power move the lead aft to flatten the bottom of the sail and twist the top off.

The main and headsail need to work together. If the genoa or jib is twisting off at the top, so should the main. If the genoa or jib is sheeted hard, so should the main. When the wind is blowing hard, adding twist to the main and jib will help give the boat a larger groove to steer in.

Wind Speed (knots)                 0-5                               6-12                 13-18                           19+

Inches of inverse          Tensioned yet                          1-1 3/4”                        3-3 1/2”                       4”

bend                            straight mast

Wind Speed (knots)                 0-5                               6-12                             13-18               19+

From black band                      1-2”                              1/2”                              Max.                Max.

GENOA TRIMMING GUIDE

Wind Speed (Knots)                            0-5                   6-12                 13-18               19+

Sail from spreader tip                          2-3”                  2-3”                  4-5”                  6”

Foot from turnbuckle                            3-4”                  1-2”                  against             against

Luff Tension                                        smooth——-><—-slight wrinkle—–><——-smooth

Leech Line                                          <———-just tight enough to prevent flutter———->

Downwind the main should be set at its fullest settings. The backstay should be eased. The jib halyard should be attached to the jib tack hook and tightened. This allows the mast to remain forward and stable at all times. In breeze over 15 knots it is a good idea to keep the backstay tensioned a little to prevent total mast inversion. The aft lowers should be released all the way immediately after the weather rounding. The outhaul should be 2” from maximum tension. The cunningham is always eased all the way on a run. Boom vang should be set so the top batten is parallel with the boom.

While reaching the main should be powered up most of the time. The backstay should be eased, aft lowers off, cunningham loose and outhaul eased. A little bit of twist in the top of the main is okay. Make sure the top telltale is not stalled. Once the boat starts to be overpowered on the reach it is time to depower the main. Pull the backstay on a little to keep the mast in column. Ease the vang to allow the top of the sail to twist off. Pull the cunningham on to open the leech of the main. Tighten the outhaul.

Spinnaker Trim

North’s full radial spinnaker likes to be flown with the spinnaker pole lower to project more area. A good starting point is for the pole to be connected at the mast 44 ½” up from the deck. The pole should be flown parallel with the horizon. The halyard should be raised as high as it will go to increase projected area and stabilize the sail. When running, square the pole so it is perpendicular to the apparent wind and make sure the sheet does not go past the headstay.

The trimmer should keep a slight curl in the luff of the sail. Remember that an under trimmed spinnaker is much faster than an over trimmed and stalled spinnaker. Spinnaker trim needs to be constantly adjusted due to the changes in apparent wind caused by velocity changes, steering, waves and changes in boat speed. To help the boat accelerate faster be ready to ease the sheet 5” – 12” when a puff hits. The ease of the sheet will move the driving force of the sail forward instead of healing the boat to leeward. Never let the pole rest on the headstay; it should always be at least 2-3’ aft of the headstay.

When running, concentrate on steering your optimum down wind angle. Good drivers are sensitive to small changes in boat speed. When the boat is going slow, head up a little to increase boat speed. If the boat is moving fast or in a puff, bear off to ride the puff longer and use your extra boat speed to sail lower. Good communication between helmsman and trimmer is important.

Make sure one of the team (not the spinnaker trimmer) is constantly watching for puffs and velocity downwind.

If you have any questions, comments or suggestions about your new Santana 20 sails, we will be glad to discuss them with you.

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Santana - Sailboat Data, Parts & Rigging

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One of the very first boats I reviewed was the Santana 20, designed by Shad Turner. Apparently it was a good review because Schock Corp. managed to sell 900 of these little boats. They were the very first of the "sport boats," i.e. high-performance, keel daysailers. The class grew to an active membership of 350 boats, many of them on inland lakes. Later the class began to dwindle and Tom Schock undertook a redesign of the venerable 20 with the help of the class president Jeff Kerr.

Today the class is healthy with 90 of the new boats added to the fleet and many of the older boats refitted with the newer deck. All efforts have been made to keep the older boats competitive. This year there will be 40 boats racing in the Denver area alone. The 20 is very popular with trailer sailors.

So what makes a successful one-design? You can draw and hype all you like and maybe you will even build a handful. But to establish a truly vital class, the first thing you need is a good boat, an exciting boat and a boat that attracts attention through its performance. An exception to this may be the J-Boats designs. But in that case the company has learned to build on the momentum of its first J/24.

The Santana 20 is a good boat, and owners and crews love it. The new model features a redesigned deck with a rolled cockpit edge like a 505 dinghy. This is very easy on the legs. The cockpit is now open to the transom making its working area at least seem bigger. The small, bullet-shaped cuddy cabin, which gives the 20 its very distinctive look, has been retained.

The appendages are the same with a 4-foot draft lead fin and a dated-looking low-aspect-ratio rudder. The hull itself is very shapely despite being drawn during the heyday of the IOR. Designer Turner avoided the "shapes du jour" of that period and created a smooth and fair bumpless hull for the 20. The stern is narrow compared to the wide dinghylike sterns of newer designs, and BWL is also broader giving the 20 good initial stability. (Most sailors love initial stability.) Overall, the hull shape is very moderate.

It's interesting to consider the possibility that the differences between this early sport boat and, say, a Melges 24, may be precisely the reason for the 20's longevity. This boat is very easy to sail and less physically demanding than the newer boats. This benign personality combined with its sparkling performance may be at the heart of its popularity. The boat is the perfect family day racer. Forget harnesses and dry suits, just go out and have fun.

Also in Perry on Design

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Also from Robert H. Perry

The Santana 20 is a 20.21ft fractional sloop designed by Shad Turner and built in fiberglass by Schock W.D. since 1976.

900 units have been built..

The Santana 20 is a light sailboat which is a very high performer. It is very stable / stiff and has a low righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a day-boat.

Santana 20 for sale elsewhere on the web:

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• Sailboat Guide

Santana 20 is a 20 ′ 2 ″ / 6.2 m monohull sailboat designed by W. Shad Turner and built by Schock W.D. starting in 1976.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

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Santana 20 needs a motor maybe a trolling motor?

• Thread starter acudavid
• Start date May 14, 2022
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

Hi everyone, I have a 20 ft Schock Santana that I bought to support a charity for young sailors. It's in good shape except the motor bracket has damaged the stern where it is mounted giving it a flex that should not be there. There are two things stopping me from reinforcing the stern from the inside: 1. It will be hard to reach without cutting access panels 2. The boat will be used by several youngsters who will not be able to reach over the stern to pull start my 3.5 hp outboard anyway. So I was thinking electric and wondering if anyone has experience with something like a Minn Kota 55 lb thrust motor? I see a Newport with 86 lbs of thrust for around $400 on Amazon. I already have a couple of dc 27 batteries which they could be mounted in the bilge and cabled to reach the motor. The boat has a displacement of around 1400 lbs. The motor will be used to motor in and out of the dock to reach the main channel about 400 yards away. The boat has a 30 amp shore power hookup so recharging will be easy. I don't have the budget for one of the Spirit motors and am wondering if a trolling motor would work. I have no experience with them. Thanks!  

Attachments

For short distances in mild conditions it should be fine. However, this is not a "get home motor" or "I need to be somewhere fast" motor. Make sure the kids have a way calling for assistance when they get becalmed a couple of miles from home. Or at least call the parent units to let them know they'll be late for dinner.  

Will Gilmore

A trolling motor is perfect for getting from the boat ramp to the rigging dock. It would be prefect to get from the dock, out of the marina. It would be prefect to take a twenty foot 1400 lb sailboat through a bridge pass. It would even be prefect to help bring the boat about if you, for some reason, lose the jib and get caught in irons. Just as dlochner says, it is not a get home fast motor. However, I've known bass fishermen with heavier boats who have told me they trolled for hours at two to three knots on 24v trolling motors. It takes the right batteries and a patient hand on the throttle. -Will  

My dock neighbor has a 20 foot, full keel boat. He took the engine out years ago, and he uses a trolling motor to get in and out of the marina. it can be a challenge for him in a strong headwind. Greg  

It would be adequate, but just in mild conditions. It should move a Santana at 1-2 knots but will not have the power to fight winds or stiff chop.  

DLochner, Will, and Greg. Thank you! One of my Marina mates has a trolling motor and we tried it out. Definitely underpowered for any headwind. I decided to sell the boat and replace it with a friendly, electric-start outboard--an 8 hp merc. Won't have to worry about stranding any kids. Never would have even looked for a different boat, but the timing was right! Thanks for the helping hand.  

Crazy Dave Condon

Your 8 hp Mercury was built by Tohatsu in case you ever need parts  

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W.D. Schock Boat Builders Presents Harbor 20

Overview of the Harbor 20 Sailboat

The Harbor 20 "The classic modern daysailer"

Classic daysailer meets state of the art marine technology.

The Harbor 20 presents a graceful silhouette, its modern underbody and rig make for a fast and easily-handled contemporary daysailer. The result is a beautiful, cost effective, and easy-to-use boat that will always be in style.

Comfortable Cruising

 The Harbor 20’s accommodating cockpit holds up to eight guests, and no  one needs to sit on the rail to balance the boat, or duck under the boom  when tacking. Deep coamings provide comfortable back support, and two  easily accessible ice chests quickly render your favorite refreshment.  

Natural Club Racer

 A fine entry with firm bilges and a long run aft give the Harbor 20 high  speed potential, high stability and the ability to move smoothly  through choppy water. The rudder is placed well aft, and the 900 lb.  bulb keel keeps the weight low. This keel design gives the boat plenty  of stability without slowing the boat down in light air. The Harbor 20  can be raced competitively either single-handily or with a crew of  two or more. 

Sensible Design, Simplified Sail Control

With incredible stability and loads of conveniences, the Harbor 20 can  be rigged in minutes and sailed solo or with a group. There  is no better opportunity to share sailing excitement with friends and  family – whether they are seasoned sailors or completely inexperienced.  Celebrating over seventy years of boat-building excellence, the Schock  heritage continues with the Harbor 20.  

Designed with simplicity in mind

 The roller-furling headsail and self-tacking club boom will delight your  crew. And when running wing-and-wing, the club boom acts as an  automatic winger, effortlessly holding out the jib. And the control  panel just aft of the mast is centralized convenience at its very best.  Ready to go sail? Simply raise the  main, roll out the jib, and throw off the bow line. When you return to  the dock, just roll the jib back up, stow the main neatly on the boom  using the lazy jacks, and cover the boat and jib with the optional  cockpit cover and jib sock.  

 ll halyards and lines are led below the deck to Harken hardware  mounted on a shelf at the aft edge of the cuddy cabin. Everything  is within easy reach for the skipper and crew.

Specifications & Options

Specifications, electric motor options.

Designed by: Steven W. Schock

Exclusive Builder: WD Schock Corp (USA) 

First Built: 1997

Construction: Fiber Glass

Draft: 3’6”

BALLAST: 900 lbs.

Displacement:1,800 lbs

MAIN: 151 sq. ft.

Jib: 8 sq. ft.

Draft (max): 3.50’

Sail Area/Disp.1: 23.84

Bal./Disp. 50.00 %

Disp./Len. 163.56 

An electric motor is available to push the boat at about five knots and to provide convenient, quiet, and odorless propulsion. The motor, which is permanently mounted on a stainless steel pivot arm, swings out of the aft lazarette and pins onto the starboard gunwale. No wrestling with an outboard and no through-hull fittings! Four hours at maximum speed comes from the two batteries installed forward under the cockpit seats. The 24 volt system can be easily recharged with the in-line three step charger. Just plug it in at the dock.

There are many customize options available, let our representatives help you customize the perfect boat for your needs. Call us today at (951) 277-3377

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