walk through transom sailboat

MacGregorSailors.com

Discussions relating to the MacGregor line of trailerable sailboats

Skip to content

• Main Site Board index MacGregorSailors Forums MacGregor Powersailor Discussion

Walk through transom usage

Post by sunshinecoasting » Thu Jun 04, 2020 9:24 am

Re: Walk through transom usage

Post by Chinook » Thu Jun 04, 2020 3:34 pm

Post by Don T » Thu Jun 04, 2020 6:54 pm

Post by BOAT » Thu Jun 04, 2020 7:04 pm

Post by kurz » Thu Jun 04, 2020 10:12 pm

Post by Russ » Fri Jun 05, 2020 2:43 am

Post by NiceAft » Fri Jun 05, 2020 1:39 pm

Post by BOAT » Fri Jun 05, 2020 2:59 pm

Post by NiceAft » Fri Jun 05, 2020 3:42 pm

Post by BOAT » Fri Jun 05, 2020 4:10 pm

NiceAft wrote: ↑ Fri Jun 05, 2020 3:42 pm Anytime BOAT; you know how to reach me

Post by Jimmyt » Fri Jun 05, 2020 6:08 pm

Post by Jimmyt » Fri Jun 05, 2020 6:11 pm

BOAT wrote: ↑ Thu Jun 04, 2020 7:04 pm Hey Don! What's the deal with your picture? It looks sideways.

Return to “MacGregor Powersailor Discussion”

• MacGregorSailors Forums
• ↳   Website News & Announcements
• ↳   MacGregor Powersailor Discussion
• ↳   MacGregor/Venture Discussion
• ↳   Performance & Tuning
• ↳   Trailers & Towing
• ↳   Repairs and Modifications
• ↳   Destinations, Clubs, Events and Venues
• ↳   Trip Logs
• TattooSailors Forums
• ↳   Tattoo Yachts Discussion
• Special Interest Forums
• ↳   Australia Group
• ↳   Canada Group
• ↳   European Group
• ↳   Rest of the World
• ↳   Admiral's Galley
• ↳   The Front Room
• Main Site Board index
• All times are UTC+01:00

Powered by phpBB ® Forum Software © phpBB Limited

Privacy | Terms

• Forum Listing
• Marketplace
• Advanced Search
• All Topics Sailing
• General Sailing Discussions
• SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more!

Walk-through transom for under $45K?

• Add to quote

Hi folks! We are looking to buy a sailboat to use mainly on the Barnegat Bay in NJ (shoal draft is a must!) and take to Block Island, Cap May etc. Have dogs and kids who love to swim so we decided to look only at boats with a walk-through transom. We are looking at early 90's Catalina 32-36. Any other manufacturers out there that make a shoal draft, family weekend cruiser with a walk-thru transom that we can buy for around $45K? Any suggestions welcome and thank you! Christina  

This is also called a sugar scoop transom. They started to become a common feature in the late 80s and early 90s, and have stuck around since then. Almost any boat that you find on Yachtworld or other sites from that time period is worth checking to see if it has one. I'd expect that most Benetaeu and Hunter boats from that time period will also have them. The Catalina 36 Mk2 (the version with the sugar scoop transom) is a nice boat, if you can find one of those in your price range then it is worth checking it out. I thought that they would typically be closer to the $70-$100k range though, with the earlier models (no walk through transom) being under $50k. The smaller 320 may also meet your needs, would have a much lower cost of ownership, and is quite a bit less expensive: 1994 Catalina 320 Sail Boat For Sale - www.yachtworld.com  

Look at the Bavaria range most if not all the recent ones have walk thru transoms.Nice interior layouts too. Some of the older Beneteau Idylles had walk thru transoms, the 43 does for sure.  

Thanks Alex for the feedback and the 32 ft is a great looking boat and the size might perfectly suite our needs!  

Thank you TQA! I will check out the older Beneteau models. I have seen a couple very nice Bavaria for sale and will have to keep an eye out for more.  

my Hunter Vision 32 has a 4'3" draft and a nice walk-through transom ... nice interior for a family too ...  

C&C30 MkII as well, much bigger inside than the LOA would suggest.  

Beneteau 321  

ODay 35. Modified from the 34 to add the sugar scoop stern. Priced well below $45k. http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=1711  

Very few of these boats will actually work for Barnegat Bay where the average depth is 6-7 ft a 5 foot draft is pushing it here and would serve rely limit your sailing there. Dave  

6-7ft average depth? How bizarre that must be! I don't think I could ever relax sailing those waters. Even with the shallowness shoal draft it wouldn't take much of a rock to ruin your day!  

I just bought a hunter Legend 37 for much the same reason. The Legend series boats sail well, have lots of family space and a walk thru. The 37 is going to push that price range, but you might want to take a look at the 35.  

I can verify 6-7 average depth... we had a 5 foot fin, and sailing was always an adventure in new and crafty ways to become un-grounded. Our best was a "flying grounding" where we pushed the channel too much, grounded in slop, threw it hard over, filled sails heeled off and sailed away like it was a normal tack... "um yeah we meant to do that." Never again. I'd want 4' max draft for Barnie, and go light on the burgers too... every ounce gets you closer to run aground. That was many years ago though.  

Folks in Long Island's Great South Bay are lucky to have TWO FEET of average draft. Six or seven, and they'd be in heaven. Which is supposed to be very similar to Long Island Sound.(G)  

C&C 30 MKII 1988 to 199? - wing keel draws 4'8". Great boat with more room than the Catalina 30. Amazing design. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk  

The original walk thru transoms in the early 90's Catalina 34-36, with wing keel may suit you well. Probably a stretch on the 36 at that price, dependent on work to be done. 32 and 34 can be had close to your price, but you may have to come up a little for the 34. C34 is identical to the C36 in cockpit size, only a foot shorter in LOA, with a larger V Birth. Both are great boats if they have been taken care of. Wing is 4'6" draft. Tall rig is a benefit with light wind. Bopth excellent family boats.  

• ?            
• 175K members

Top Contributors this Month

Log in or Sign up

You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser .

Building a cutout transom materials methods

Discussion in ' Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building ' started by motorbike , Mar 4, 2021 .

motorbike Senior Member

I have 1 1980’s 34ft yacht that I intend to convert from a closed cockpit to a walk through transom. This has been done very successfully multiple times on this particular design so the dimensions are reliable with regard to structural integrity . The current construction is solid glass, including the transom so there is considerable weight savings to be had if I use foam. The approximate dimensions of the job is a 1.5 x 1.0m box if you will to get an idea. The question is what is the best method to employ since the majority of the work will be flat panels apart from the transom door itself. Plywood has been recommended, epoxy coated on the inside with a heavy biax on the exterior, the reason is the simplicity and ease of working plus the ability to screw into it. My resistance to ply is that the boat is glass and I would prefer all composites, that ply needs to be well glassed- essentially treated as core material otherwise there is the every present risk of water intrusion. The second option is to use corecel or similar, in which case what thickness and density would be recommended, and as I would be planning to laminate one side on the bench would it be advisable to vacuum bag it. Weight is not critical. I am reasonably capable have built a few wooden boats in the past but not much foam work apart from rudders. Thanks and on another note to the old timers, Par is still sadly missed  

DogCavalry Senior Member

Plywood is so easy to work with, so intrinsically strong, that I recommend it. PAR is absolutely missed, and he passed away before I joined. I read his stuff regularly, and I wish I could talk to him. John  

bajansailor Marine Surveyor

Motorbike, would you like to post a photo or two of your cockpit and transom please? Have you managed to find out what the scantlings are on any of the previous conversions that were carried out on this class of yacht?  

I crawled all over several conversions and it appeared to be foam and 19mm thick, another was done by making a mould and going the solid laminate way. So there have been different and successful methods. The sole will be about 1.0m wide and say 800 long, will need to check and my previous mention of a box shape still holds but I am debating how big it will eventually be. On the foam conversions there are gussets from the top hat stringers to the underside of the sole. The question isn’t about whether it can/should be done, or saving the last gram as the solid layup is very heavy and any cored method will be an improvement but the about what’s the minimum density/dimensions of foam. Is there any reason that either ply or foam would be preferable in relation to durability, ease of building etc  

Ply wins it hands down in durability over foam core. Point load from impacts... I've seen the claws of a hammer go right through an extremely strong composite structure. In one side and out the other. Admittedly I was holding the hammer, but I didn't think I was overdoing it. With plywood, no chance. Easier to build too, but not as dramatically so. And plywood is cheaper. The plywood can't compete in strength vs weight, or sophisticated shapes, but you did say a heavy box.  

fallguy Senior Member

The edges of the door opening would need to be glass wrapped. Whether foam or plywood, glass wrap is needed. You radius the edges and wrap the ends anf probably overlap the glass. You could probably relieve the dimensions both sides like a drywall joint to simplify (electric plane off 1/8"). A transom conversion to open requires due care. It has to be made strong enough for the transom to not fail, of course. There are significant differences between coosa, plywood, and lower density cores. All of them would have different glass requirements. Ply the least, but ply also has risks of rot if any ingress. Low density core most. But to do it right; you need it specified to make sure the tabbing to the sole is sufficient and the glasswork enough. Also, always preferred to maintain the existing transom exterior if at all possible. Avoid cutting anything to you have the job fully planned.  

Add pictures. The most likely option is going to be coosa or corecell, because if you already have solid glass; it is pretty strong as is..and you may only need thickness to stiffen things up. specifying the layup is out of my wheelhouse  

Many thanks for you replies, here's an example.  

Can you tell us please what the make of the yacht is? And perhaps post some more photos, including a 'before' photo of your yacht and her transom, and another photo or two of 'after' photos on other boats. Re your photo in post #8 above, do you have a 'before' photo for this boat as well?  

Hard to gauge anything by that picture, except it looks like the transom is gone.  

gonzo Senior Member

If you cut the section of the transom carefully, the panels can be reused. Only the door frame and the edges of the door need to be fabricated.  

• Advertisement:

Thanks for your responses, its a pretty straightforward job and because there have been a number of successful conversions then cant see too many structural or design issues. As I mentioned its more about ply vs foam. Ill keep you posted.  

Starting rowing boat building business

Boat building regulations in the UK

Building a foam plug

8ft free running model building

Rebuilding Europe to self draining

Rebuilding Repco30 - need core advice

Building a Composite Panel with a Window Recess?

Materials for building molds stable to the post curing process @70°C

A cleaner, faster infusion for building a fiberglass sailing dinghy

Building a (low-tech) carbon fiber spar.

• No, create an account now.
• Yes, my password is:
• Forgot your password?

• New Sailboats
• Sailboats 21-30ft
• Sailboats 31-35ft
• Sailboats 36-40ft
• Sailboats Over 40ft
• Sailboats Under 21feet
• used_sailboats
• Apps and Computer Programs
• Communications
• Fishfinders
• Handheld Electronics
• Plotters MFDS Rradar
• Wind, Speed & Depth Instruments
• Anchoring Mooring
• Running Rigging
• Sails Canvas
• Standing Rigging
• Diesel Engines
• Off Grid Energy
• Cleaning Waxing
• DIY Projects
• Repair, Tools & Materials
• Spare Parts
• Tools & Gadgets
• Cabin Comfort
• Ventilation
• Footwear Apparel
• Foul Weather Gear
• Mailport & PS Advisor
• Inside Practical Sailor Blog
• Activate My Web Access
• Reset Password
• Customer Service

• Free Newsletter

Pearson 37 and 37-2 Used Boat Review

DIY Survey Checklist for Used-Boat Buying

Valiant 40: Reshaping the Cruising Hull

Bristol Channel Cutter 28: Circumnavigator’s Choice

Best Crimpers and Strippers for Fixing Marine Electrical Connectors

Thinking Through a Solar Power Installation

How Does the Gulf Stream Influence our Weather?

Can You Run a Marine Air-Conditioner on Battery Power?

Practical Sailor Classic: The Load on Your Rode

Anchor Rodes for Smaller Sailboats

Ground Tackle Inspection Tips

Shoe Goo II Excels for Quick Sail Repairs

Dinghy Outboard Diagnostics

Spring Season Engine Start-Up for Winterized Engines

Solutions for a Stinky Holding Tank

Diesel Performance Additives

Vinyl Boat Lettering DIY Application and Repair

Those Extras you Don’t Need But Love to Have

Hidden Maintenance Problems: Part 3 – Gremlins in the Electrics

Three-Model BBQ Test

Alcohol Stoves— Swan Song or Rebirth?

Living Aboard with an Alcohol Stove

Preparing Yourself for Solo Sailing

How to Select Crew for a Passage or Delivery

Preparing A Boat to Sail Solo

Re-sealing the Seams on Waterproof Fabrics

Chafe Protection for Dock Lines

Waxing and Polishing Your Boat

Reducing Engine Room Noise

Tricks and Tips to Forming Do-it-yourself Rigging Terminals

Marine Toilet Maintenance Tips

• Sailboat Reviews

Open Transom Pros and Cons

The low, open transom of our test boat, a Corsair F-24 trimaran, results in chronically wet sneakers when sailing in rough conditions. At normal speeds, the cockpit stays dry, even off the wind. The stern rises to the approaching waves, and we’re generally surfing away from them anyway, leaving a long, flat wake. But occasionally we slow down because we’re reefing, bumbling a jibe, trolling slowly, or just taking a break, and with only 6 inches of freeboard aft, water washes the length of the cockpit.

In the summer it’s amusing, and we learn not to leave anything on the floor. In winter, however, the water is cold, and unless we are wearing boots or waterproof socks, the rest of the day is less pleasant. In Force 5 conditions it’s just a few inches, and the 8-inch companionway sill is enough to turn water away. In Force 7, we better have a companionway drop board in, or dozens of gallons of water will pour into the cabin in a second.

What we need is a removable board at the transom to keep the waves out. Some people call these duck boards, but that term normally describes planks laid across wet or soft ground. I’ve heard them called splash boards, but that’s more commonly reserved for transom-mounted deflectors on either side of an outboard motor. For our purposes, we’ll call them transom washboards, as distinct from companionway washboards (also known as drop boards).

SEAWORTHINESS

Proponents of open-transom designs tell us that these boats are almost never pooped. Perhaps the Dyneema lifelines create a force field that keeps boarding seas at bay? More likely, they have light, broad transoms that obediently rise to every swell. Any serious flooding seems to occur when waves come over the side as the boat yaws. When this happens, the open transom quickly drains. The point is, there is no shortage of open-transom boats that blast through the world’s roughest oceans without much fear of being overwhelmed from astern.

Open transoms have advantages for both cruisers and racers. For racers, they allow a large cockpit that sheds water rapidly. For cruisers they can ease boarding, both from dinghies, floating docks, and from the water. The cockpit is easier to keep clean, and in many cases, becomes effectively self-cleaning. In colder climates, there is a risk that falling leaves or ice might clog the cockpit drains, causing the boat to sink.

The downsides are obvious. In even moderately bad weather, waves can wash into the cockpit, soaking your feet and gear. If the companionway is low and unprotected by wash boards, even a small wave can make the cabin pretty wet. In serious weather, downflooding becomes a serious a concern, unless the companionway boards are very strong.

What about the weight of all that water? At 64 pounds per cubic foot, water sloshing in the cockpit can really upset the fore-aft balance of the boat. The cockpit well of our 24-foot Corsair can hold 1,100 pounds of water, about 1/3 the weight of the boat, or six additional crew members. Meanwhile, an open cockpit will drain in seconds.

We’ve heard of a few cases of sailors being washed out under the lifeline of the cockpit of a race boat. The governing body of international sailing World Sailing stipulates in its rules that there must be two lifelines, with a maximum vertical spacing of 15 inches around the perimeter of the boat, including the stern. A toe rail is required aft of the mast, but the aft end of an open transom cockpit rarely has a one, because that would interfere with draining.

We could, of course, put up a low net (tailgate webbing for pickup trucks) to catch gear and sailors washing aft. Another solution is built-in wash boards that either hinge upward or pull up and lift into place. Sometimes these transom wash boards are the full height of the coaming, but more often they are lower, about seat height.

What about drogues towed from the transom vs. open transoms? We think drogues still make sense for trimarans, because they are the type of boat most susceptible to wave-only capsize. A drogue on a bridle is effective in keeping a trimaran from being caught abeam to a large wave. A large beam-on wave can lift the windward float, rotating the boat and forcing the lee float under. Open cockpits on trimarans are long, but they are narrow, so they don’t hold that much water.

A low transom board, such as we made, will make the cockpit more livable and not trap that much water (see “DIY Transom Washboard”). Don’t like the board there? You can just remove it.

We’d leave the transom splashboard out of a racing monohull; the transom is broad and light, and the boat will rise with the waves. The cockpit can be massive, so it is better to have rapid drainage.

Cruising monohulls are higher, have smaller cockpits and are usually equipped with sturdy OEM transom washboards. As for catamarans, in our limited experience with gales, and from what experienced oceanic cat sailors tell us, significant waves breaking onto the elevated bridge deck are rare. In either case, sailors should insist on sturdy companionway sills and doors.

CONCLUSIONS

A transom washboard can make sailing a little drier and more pleasant in bad weather. Can it make the boat more seaworthy in truly bad weather, or will it make things worse by holding water? The answer is likely boat-specific. One option is to leave the transom open and install strong companionway washboards. If a wave boards from the side or the transom, it will flow out within seconds. Certainly at least one board is smart, and don’t forget to secure it. If you opt for a transom washboard, it needs to meet the World Sailing standard for cockpit volume and drainage rates.

Does your boat have a closed transom? Think about the size of your cockpit drains. Are they clogged, even a little? If they drain below the waterline, odds are there are barnacles in the through-hull and plumbing, and unless you have cleaned them out with a rod this month, they are partially blocked. And what about your companionway washboards? Are they strong enough? Does one of them have a vent or screen? You need a non-vented board to replace it. Many doors are little more than rain protection.

Does a transom washboard make your boat secure against serious wave strike? That depends on cockpit volume and companionway security. A washboard is convenient in moderate weather, but a fast draining cockpit has advantages, too. No doubt, ocean-going boats with open transoms are here to stay, but for the average cruiser, a more traditional design many be more robust.

When it comes to recovering persons in the water, an easy-to-board platform at the stern can be a lifesaver. But what happens when that easy-to-board stern is also slip-and-slide into the sea? Builders of performance cruisers agree that an open transom is a practical route to meeting the racing requirements for shedding water (see page 17). The easy-boarding design is also hit among recreational sailors. But there is little consensus on how to address the open-transom’s Achilles heel—the increased risk of falling overboard.

1. The U.S. Coast Guard Academy’s Leadership 44 sail trainer has an open transom. Liferafts stow in cradles beneath the removable bench seat behind the helm.

On a breezy summer day we don’t mind wet feet. It’s part of the fun. But in the winter, wet feet are something we avoid.

We investigated a number of locations for installing a transom board on that would keep waves from sloshing aboard our Corsair F-24 test boat. The tiller location and seats that sloped downward and aft near the transom made it impractical to install washboards at the extreme aft part of the stern.

The spot under the traveler horse was a promising location, but in our case that left the prime helming station unprotected. The best compromise was a 12-inch board just as the seat taper begins, far enough behind the traveler to suit the helmsman, but clear of the tiller.

Ideally the board will be vertical. Sloping forward would encourage a wave to climb it and slosh over. Sloping aft increases impact pressure by trapping the wave and increases lift on the board.

MAKE A TEMPLATE

Foam board from the Dollar Store is a favorite template material. After measuring and cutting (allow for a drainage gap underneath), we taped it in position with duct tape, and went sailing to check for any issues. There were none.

RETAINING CLEATS

Most people will want a removable board, so a pair of vertical retaining cleats on each side provide robust and convenient installation. We used varnished, glycol-borate treated cedar left over from a cockpit sole grating project (see “ Products and Tips to Stop Wood Rot ,” PS January 2021).

Both the cleats and board should be drilled for some sort of locking pin to prevent the board from lifting out. Alternatively, you can use a shock cord to secure the board in place (“ Shock Cord Test Looks at Long Life ,” PS March 2022).

Exterior plywood is a practical choice for the board. We used a floorboard from a discarded inflatable dinghy. Avoid Starboard, it is heavy, weak, and prone to warping.

Use 3/8-inch plywood for a 2-foot span, 1/2-inch for a 3- to 4-foot span, and 3/4-inch for a 6-foot span. Greater spans can be reinforced with cleats on the floor or laminated horizontal beams. Because plywood can get heavy, you may want to consider composites, but these take additional skills and some calculation ability.

Potential core products include Coosa board, foam, or end grain balsa (see “ The Multipurpose Core ,” PS February 2020). A good laminate schedule would include a layer or two of 1708 biaxial cloth on each side, with one or two layers of 9-ounce unidirectional glass sandwiched between the 1708 on the cockpit side.

If the span is over 4 feet, consider adding some beams for support. You can use carbon, but glass will give the same strength, with a little less stiffness and a little more toughness. For our 24-inch span, ½-inch core with a single layer of 1708 on both sides would have been plenty strong and much lighter than plywood. On the other hand, the extra weight helps hold it in place and the price for plywood was hard to beat (we used a scrap floorboard from an old inflatable dinghy that had reached the end of its life).

A small semi-circle in the middle of the splashboard and small triangular openings in each corner allowed for drainage, even when the boat was heeled. We could have installed flaps on the drains, but not enough water enters through the drains to worry about. We’ve found similar flaps on our 420 dinghy need regular maintenance to continue to operate properly.

To avoid drilling holes in the cored deck we attached the cleats with 3M 5200, and about 8 square inches of bond area for each cleat. The sheer strength of 3M 5200 is 400 psi, which is nearly as strong as the skin-to-core bond. If I need to replace the cleats, I can use De-Bond to loosen the grip of 3M 5200 (see “ Removing 3M 5200 ,” PS October 2017).

Another option is a removable transom dock box, like the one found on the J/109. While this is cumbersome to store (you must take it off the boat), it’s easy to make strong and it increases storage volume. It also makes the cockpit smaller, which may be a good thing, and can give the helmsman a place to sit. Just make sure it is tightly secured so that it can’t float away.

Although our new splashboard is removable, we haven’t taken it out yet. It doesn’t get in the way and has the added benefit of keeping dropped hats, gloves and lunch wrappers from blowing out of the cockpit. Perhaps we will pull it out when the weather warms to allow for easier swimming access. This should be easy to do, since the board stores neatly behind a seat in the cabin below, and drops effortlessly into the slot when we need it.

The ideal companionway hatch and sill design depends on the boat. We truly dislike sliding doors on boats, but a large catamaran restricted to coastal waters can get by with one. The deck is high off the water, the cockpit is covered by a massive hardtop, and there isn’t enough heel to turn a sliding door into a deadly weapon so long as it is locked.

At the other extreme is a sporty keel boat with a low cockpit and an open transom, which can fill even in coastal waters. In the case of the sport boat, it’s easy to slide in a drop board if the weather gets violent.

Drop boards must be restrained so they cannot fall out in a knockdown or rollover. Likewise, when they are removed, the must be stowed securely in a place where they are easily accessible. Some padeyes and a shock cord are usually enough to keep them in place.

Our view is that any sill lower than 6 inches is worthless. For offshore sailing, our reviewers generally look for permanent sills that are at least 12 inches above the cockpit sole.

1. French-style doors with glazing panels should be rated high strength and well-reinforced.

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

Good article. Sensible solutions. I personally don’t care for the open transom. Three offshore round trip voyages to the Virgin Islands from NC. No horrible conditions but some big seas occasionally. Never pooped. But with an open transom?–maybe.

But another thing not often mentioned is while an open transom can make getting off and on a dinghy easier it also makes it easier for unwanted visitors to get on the boat. Over the years I have read and talked to a couple people who have had intruders that swam out to their boats and climbed aboard over open transoms. It’s not a big thing in the scheme of life but something to be aware of.

Open transom can also make installing a self steering windvane problematic. Choices. Compromises.

LEAVE A REPLY Cancel reply

Log in to leave a comment

Latest Videos

Hanse 410: What You Should Know | Boat Tour

Sailboat vs Fishing Boat – Rules of the Road

Catalina 445: What You Should Know | Boat Review

How to Wax and Polish Your Boat

• Privacy Policy
• Do Not Sell My Personal Information
• Online Account Activation
• Privacy Manager

• Search in titles only Search in General Nautique Discussion only Search
• Advanced Search
• Welcome to PLANETNAUTIQUE! We're glad you're here. In order to participate in our discussions, you must register for a free account. With over 25,000 registered members already, we would love to have you as a member too! Click here to access our Registration Page . Registration is quick and easy, and we keep any information you give us completely confidential. Once registered, you may sign in using the drop-down Login or Sign Up window at the upper right corner of the site.

Announcement

210 vs walk-through transom.

• Latest Activity
• Time All Time Today Last Week Last Month
• Show All Discussions only Photos only Videos only Links only Polls only Events only

• Join Date: Dec 2015
• City & State: Byron IL
• Current Boats: 2004 Mastercraft ProStar 197

• Join Date: May 2010
• City & State: Bowling Green, KY
• Current Boats: 2005 SV 211

• Join Date: Aug 2008
• City & State: El Dorado Hills
• Current Boats: 2023 G23

• Join Date: Aug 2011
• Posts: 2198
• City & State: Carson City, Nevada
• Current Boats: 2014 G21 (Current) 2008 SANTE 210

• Join Date: Feb 2008
• City & State: Michigan
• Current Boats: 2006 SANTE 210

• Join Date: Nov 2007
• Posts: 2172
• City & State: Clayton, NC

• Join Date: Sep 2014
• City & State: Summerville, SC
• Current Boats: Current Boat: 2018 GS20

• Join Date: Nov 2010
• City & State: Odessa, FL
• Current Boats: 2022 Paragon I 2014 G23 CE 450 I 2006 SV-211TE - sold

• Join Date: Feb 2011
• City & State: Barcelona Spain
• Current Boats: 2014 G21 2007 SAN 220

• Join Date: May 2008
• Posts: 1596
• City & State: Midwest/ Northern IL
• Current Boats: 2008 SANTE 210

• Search forums

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: this_feature_currently_requires_accessing_site_using_safari

• Diving Gear
• Boats & Boating Equipment
• Dive Modifications

Idea for getting back without a walk through transom

• Thread starter lee3645
• Start date Oct 16, 2009

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

• Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
• A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
• You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

• Oct 16, 2009

I have access to a 22’ Edge Water down in Key Largo. Getting in to the water is not the problem more of getting out. The boat has a swim ladder but climbing up that and then over the transom with all the gear on will be a challenge. I have an idea and wanted to post it up and see if anyone has done this or has a better idea. For getting back on to the boat get 20’ of rope with a round fender on one end. Then place snap rings about 5’ apart on the rope. Finally cleat the other end to the boat. That way at the end of the dive all we would have to do take off the BC clip it to one of the snap rings, get on the boat, retrieve the gear and off to the next dive site.  

Contributor

Smokey braden.

smokey braden: lee3645, if one were wearing a weight belt, would that come off first? what would be your suggestion on how to clip it to your line? thanx, Click to expand...

ScubaBoard Supporter

I have no ladder (inflatable) and regularly clip off single and double tank rigs, doff them, swim over the boat tube, and then pull the tanks aboard. I have about 8 tag lines around the perimeter of the boat and we clip everyting off, camera's, scooters, deco bottles, tanks, etc. Then remove our lead and swim aboard. System works fine, in fact most people prefer it to some less than optimum ladders.  

GrumpyOldGuy

ScubaBoard Sponsor

• Oct 17, 2009

lee3645: I have access to a 22’ Edge Water down in Key Largo. Getting in to the water is not the problem more of getting out. The boat has a swim ladder but climbing up that and then over the transom with all the gear on will be a challenge. I have an idea and wanted to post it up and see if anyone has done this or has a better idea. For getting back on to the boat get 20’ of rope with a round fender on one end. Then place snap rings about 5’ apart on the rope. Finally cleat the other end to the boat. That way at the end of the dive all we would have to do take off the BC clip it to one of the snap rings, get on the boat, retrieve the gear and off to the next dive site. Click to expand...

Cave Diver: I've heard of people diving this way. Just be sure you're BC is inflated and holding air. Click to expand...

Similar threads

• Nov 13, 2023
• Underwater Photography

• Apr 25, 2024

• Wants2divemore
• Apr 13, 2024

• May 7, 2024
• Classifieds: BCD's & Weight Systems

• rossandmaureen
• May 28, 2024
• This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more…

• CREATE AN ACCOUNT
• Boat Cover Finder
• Bimini Top Finder
• Boat Propeller Finder
• Engine Parts Finder
• Anchor & Dock
• Watersports
• Clothing and Footwear
• Engine Parts
• Cabin and Galley
• Covers and Biminis
• Electronics
• Paint and Maintenance
• Pumps and Plumbing
• Anchor Chains & Ropes
• Boat Fenders
• Boat Mooring
• Boat Protection
• Dock Storage & Protection
• Ladders, Steps, & Platforms
• Top Sellers

• Fishing Rods
• Fishing Reels
• Fishing Rod & Reel Combos
• Fishing Tools & Tackle Boxes
• Fishing Line
• Fly Fishing
• Fishing Bait & Fishing Lures
• Fishing Rod Holders & Storage Racks
• Fish Finders, Sounders & Sonar
• Trolling Motors
• Fishing Nets
• Fishing Downriggers & Acessories
• Fishing Outriggers & Acessories
• Fishing Kayaks
• Fish Cleaning Tables

• Inflatable Rafts
• Paddle Boarding
• Paddles & Oars
• Wakeboard, Wakesurf & Ski
• Wakeboard Towers
• Tow Ropes & Handles
• Life Jackets & PFDs
• Snow Sports
• Roof Racks, Carriers, Dollies

Men's Clothing

• Accessories

Men's Footwear

• Atheltic Shoes
• Water Shoes

Women's Clothing

• Dresses & Skirts

Women's Footwear

• Fuel Systems
• Sacrificial Anodes & Zincs
• Generator Parts
• Inflatable Boats
• Propeller Parts & Accessories
• Boat Manuals
• PWC Parts & Accessories

• Fishing Boat Seats
• Offshore Boat Seats
• Ski Boat Seats
• Pontoon Boat Seats & Furniture
• Boat Seat Pedestals & Hardware
• Boat Seats by Manufacturer
• Boat Tables & Hardware
• Boat Seat Covers
• Boat Seat Vinyl
• Floating Boat Cushions

• Barbeque Grills
• Boat Drink Holders
• Cabin Accessories & Hardware
• Boat Ventilation
• Interior & Cabin Lighting
• Marine Teak Products
• Carbon Monoxide & Smoke Detectors
• Binoculars & Telescopes

Boat Bimini Tops

• Bimini Top Accessories
• Pontoon Bimini Tops
• Other Biminis
• RV & Trailer Covers
• Boat Shrink Wrap & Accessories
• Boat Shelters

Boat Covers

• Boat Cover Accessories
• Boat Lift Canopy Covers
• Other Covers
• Boat Wiring & Cable
• Marine Batteries & Accessories
• Marine DC Power Plugs & Sockets
• Marine Electrical Meters
• Boat Lights
• Marine Electrical Panels & Circuit Breakers
• Power Packs & Jump Starters
• Marine Solar Power Accessories
• Marine Electrical Terminals
• Marine Fuse Blocks & Terminal Blocks
• Marine Switches
• Shore Power & AC Distribution

• Marine Audio & Video
• GPS Chartplotters & Accessories
• Electronic Navigation Charts & Software
• Digital Instruments
• Display Mounts
• VHF Radios & Communication
• Marine Radar
• Auto Pilot Systems
• Action Cameras

• Fiberglass & Epoxy Boat Repair
• Boat Paint & Varnish
• Marine Adhesives, Sealant, & Caulking
• Marine Engine Maintenance
• Boat Cleaners & Waxes
• Boat Cleaning Supplies

• Fresh Water Boat Systems
• Bilge Pumps
• Marine Plumbing Parts
• Wash Down Pumps
• Livewell Aerator Pumps & Live Bait Wells
• Toilet & Waste Pumps
• Marine Pump Replacement Parts

• Tires, Rims, & Hub Kits
• Boat Trailer Winches
• Boat Motor Supports & Transom Savers
• Boat Trailer Guides & Rollers
• Boat Trailer Fenders
• Boat Trailer Lights
• Boat Trailer Hardware
• Boat Trailer Jacks
• Boat Trailer Brakes & Axles
• Boat Trailer Tie Downs
• Couplers, Mounts, Hitches, & Locks

• Boat Deck Harware
• Marine Nuts, Bolts, & Screws
• Boat Handles, Pulls, & Rings
• Prop Nut Kits & Hardware
• Boat Cabin Hardware
• Marine Fasteners
• Boat Windshield Parts
• Boat Tubing & Rails
• Boat Mirrors
• Marine Tools & Tool Kits
• Boat Lettering

• Women's Clothing Deals
• Men's Clothing Deals
• Fishing Deals
• Anchor & Dock Deals
• Electrical Deals
• Electronics Deals
• Paint & Maintenance Deals
• Pumps & Plumbing Deals
• Boat Seats Deals
• Trailering Deals
• Camping & RV Deals
• Dealer Login

• Forums Login

• Search forums
• General Boating/Outdoors Activities
• Boat Topics and Questions (not engine topics)

Transom walk thru bowrider

• Thread starter OutforFun
• Start date Aug 30, 2017
• Aug 30, 2017

I am looking at a used 2009 Regal 2000 that has a transom walk thru. Would like to know if there are other boats with similar transom walkthrough in the same tier that folks would recommend. No longer than 21ft. That is unfortunately the limit at the lake.  

Senior Chief Petty Officer

I have an 2004 Caravelle 187 BR with a walk thru transom and swim platform. Has the 4.3 Volvo GXI 225 hp. Love the space and walk thru on it.  

Chief Petty Officer

Not sure if Cobalt makes one that small anymore. The Regal boat I owned was a 2005 20' and it was every bit a quality boat as the Cobalt boats that we've bought since. I also like the walk through transom boats. Cobalt, Regal, Chaparral, Bryant, Searay are to me quality boats. Dave-R  

• Aug 31, 2017

bajaunderground

I looked at Regals when I purchased my Cobalt. I would put them at the top of the list as well. The walk-Thru transoms are nice if you have a swim platform...keeps people's feet off the vinyl when they jump off the back or hanging out.  

Dave-R said: Not sure if Cobalt makes one that small anymore. The Regal boat I owned was a 2005 20' and it was every bit a quality boat as the Cobalt boats that we've bought since. I also like the walk through transom boats. Cobalt, Regal, Chaparral, Bryant, Searay are to me quality boats. Dave-R Click to expand...

Rear Admiral

My Chaparral has a walk through which I like having come from a no walk through bowrider. It has a horizontal and vertices filler cushion to turn the walk through into a seat if needed. I've never used it. On the flip side my neighbor just bought a 2017 Glastron 225 at the beginning of the season which is about as low end as you can buy but he has a cushion that flips up on a hinge over the walk through as part of the sun pad which is common on many boats now. Guess what, nobody ever flips it up and his upholstery takes a beating. The walk through might as well not be there because people are too lazy to flip the cushion up. Not comparing the quality because the Glastron is so amazingly cheapo and the Chap is not. Chap makes the smaller boats that Cobalt stopped Making around 2002 but that chap now does so in a lower level line that came about due to the economic downturn several years back but still made their SSI series with small loa's for several years after cobalt stopped and up to the economic downturn. .  

harleyman1975

I have an 03 Regal 2000 with the walk through. Love the boat! I plan on keeping it for the long term. it does not have a jump seat that fills in where the walk through is but I am going to remedy that this winter. also plan to add docking lights as well.  

Out for fun: That was an easy choice for me. First cobalt was a 1996 190 with a cracked block.We bought it about 8 years ago for 5000.00 and our kids are still running it today. The next Cobalt was a 2001 226 also with a cracked block. Bought it at an IRS auction, and we were the only ones there. Minimum bid was 9000.00. That was about 4 years ago. Last year we bought a 2011 Cobalt 232 . It sunk on it's maiden voyage. We paid to much for it 20,000.00 I fell in love with it and paid dearly for that. Why Cobalt ? Everything about them is very well thought out. No graphics to peel and fade, the gel-coat is as good as it gets, as are all the fabrics in the boat. They have great storage everywhere, and they use great hardware.They have backing behind every cleat and ski eye.They use some kevlar in the hull construction, not sure if that's something that is more marketing or really structural. Maybe not top of the line but close. I would like to try a Formula boat one time, but they are very pricey. Dave -R  

• Sep 2, 2017

Dave-R said: Out for fun: That was an easy choice for me. First cobalt was a 1996 190 with a cracked block.We bought it about 8 years ago for 5000.00 and our kids are still running it today. The next Cobalt was a 2001 226 also with a cracked block. Bought it at an IRS auction, and we were the only ones there. Minimum bid was 9000.00. That was about 4 years ago. Last year we bought a 2011 Cobalt 232 . It sunk on it's maiden voyage. We paid to much for it 20,000.00 I fell in love with it and paid dearly for that. Why Cobalt ? Everything about them is very well thought out. No graphics to peel and fade, the gel-coat is as good as it gets, as are all the fabrics in the boat. They have great storage everywhere, and they use great hardware.They have backing behind every cleat and ski eye.They use some kevlar in the hull construction, not sure if that's something that is more marketing or really structural. Maybe not top of the line but close. I would like to try a Formula boat one time, but they are very pricey. Dave -R Click to expand...

• Sep 7, 2017

Uh...don't hit the dock! I have fenders on the boat and tires on the dock. the only scratches are from hit and run boaters who bumped boat when no one was around.  

• PRO Courses Guides New Tech Help Pro Expert Videos About wikiHow Pro Upgrade Sign In
• EDIT Edit this Article
• EXPLORE Tech Help Pro About Us Random Article Quizzes Request a New Article Community Dashboard This Or That Game Popular Categories Arts and Entertainment Artwork Books Movies Computers and Electronics Computers Phone Skills Technology Hacks Health Men's Health Mental Health Women's Health Relationships Dating Love Relationship Issues Hobbies and Crafts Crafts Drawing Games Education & Communication Communication Skills Personal Development Studying Personal Care and Style Fashion Hair Care Personal Hygiene Youth Personal Care School Stuff Dating All Categories Arts and Entertainment Finance and Business Home and Garden Relationship Quizzes Cars & Other Vehicles Food and Entertaining Personal Care and Style Sports and Fitness Computers and Electronics Health Pets and Animals Travel Education & Communication Hobbies and Crafts Philosophy and Religion Work World Family Life Holidays and Traditions Relationships Youth
• Browse Articles
• Learn Something New
• Quizzes Hot
• This Or That Game
• Train Your Brain
• Explore More
• Support wikiHow
• About wikiHow
• Log in / Sign up
• Cars & Other Vehicles

Your Ultimate Guide to Boat Transoms

Last Updated: March 31, 2023 Fact Checked

Transom Definition

Transom uses, can a transom get damaged, can you repair a transom, caring for a transom.

This article was co-authored by wikiHow staff writer, Devin McSween . Devin McSween is a wikiHow Staff Writer. With a background in psychology, she has presented her research in social psychology at a variety of conferences and has contributed to several manuscripts for publication. At wikiHow, Devin combines her love of writing and research with the goal of bringing accessible information to wikiHow readers that will help them learn and grow. She earned her BS in Psychology from the College of Charleston. This article has been fact-checked, ensuring the accuracy of any cited facts and confirming the authority of its sources. This article has been viewed 19,741 times. Learn more...

You might be familiar with the hull and stern on a boat, but what is a transom? And is it important? On most boats, the transom is the vertical reinforcement at the stern of the boat. There’s definitely a lot of terminology to learn and remember when boating, so we’re here to tell you more about what the transom is and what it does. Then, to help you boat safely, we’ll tell you what to look out for and do if your transom gets damaged.

Things You Should Know

• A transom is a flat structure at the back of a boat that motors are usually attached to. It reinforces and supports the back of the boat.
• Over time, stress from the motors can cause cracks to form on your transom that water leaks into. As more water enters, the transom can rot.
• The best way to repair a damaged transom is to replace it. Once water enters and rots the transom, its structure is difficult to fix.
• To care for your transom, check it regularly for cracks and peeling seals. If you suspect it's wet, get a professional to take a sample.

• Lots of boaters put the name of their boat on the transom, which is another great way to tell where it is.
• Transom and stern are separate things, though they’re often used interchangeably. The stern is a direction, while the transom is a structure on the boat.
• Transoms can come in many different shapes and sizes. Depending on the type of boat and its size, they might be rounded or square. They also aren’t all flat, as some are angled upwards or downwards.

• If the boat has a motor, the sturdiness of the transom also helps to absorb the motor’s energy.

• The size of the transom often depends on how many motors are on the boat. A boat with 2 or more motors puts a lot of stress on the transom, so it needs to be thicker.

• Any damage to your hull can damage your transom, too. Scratching the bottom of your boat when you’re in too shallow water or hitting debris at high speeds can crack your transom.

• Replacing your transom with a professional can cost around $1,500 to $5,000, depending on the size of your boat. While that’s certainly not cheap, it’s super important that you have an undamaged transom to boat safely!

• Rust stains below screws and bolts, warping, and cracks are also common signs your transom is rotting.

Expert Q&A

You might also like.

• ↑ https://www.townandtourist.com/what-is-the-transom-on-a-boat/
• ↑ https://boatbuy.com.au/wet-transom-truths/
• ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YH5CPO-upOA
• ↑ https://www.boatsafe.com/transom-saver/

About This Article

• Send fan mail to authors

Did this article help you?

Featured Articles

Trending Articles

Watch Articles

• Terms of Use
• Privacy Policy
• Do Not Sell or Share My Info
• Not Selling Info

wikiHow Tech Help Pro:

Level up your tech skills and stay ahead of the curve

• Forums New posts Unanswered threads Register Top Posts Email
• What's new New posts New Posts (legacy) Latest activity New media
• Media New media New comments
• Boat Info Downloads Weekly Quiz Topic FAQ 10000boatnames.com
• Classifieds Sell Your Boat Used Gear for Sale
• Parts General Marine Parts Hunter Beneteau Catalina MacGregor Oday
• Help Terms of Use Monday Mail Subscribe Monday Mail Unsubscribe

What sailboats have step-thru transoms?

• Thread starter Ward H
• Start date Dec 1, 2012
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

Admiral asked me today to "Is it possible to get a sailboat with an open back to make it easy to get in and out of the water?" Googled and didn't come up with much so I ask the question here. In the 25 to 28' range, can anyone recomend sailboats that have open (sugar scoop?) transoms or step thru transoms w/ or w/o door? Thanks  

http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/index.php?option=com_album&Itemid=278&catid=65&page=model Most of the newer Hunters in that size range have that feature.. The 280s are very nice http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/in...&Itemid=278&pid=11915&page=sshow&mn=&catid=64  

Catalina 250, 270 and 28, Capri 26  

My 1990 Hunter 27 has a sugar scoop transom. What price range are you looking at?  

Are you a trailer sailor? If not your world is fairly large for open transoms. Maybe a little less so with the trailerable boats. Hunter & Catalina's all have them for many years back.  

If your a trailer sailor the Hunter 260 has a sugar scoop.  

Anchor Down

Anchor Down said: And if you're not a trailer-sailor, it still has a sugar scoop. Click to expand

Tried trailer sailing, choose to go the marina route instead. Budget would be <$15k. Happy with an older boat. Shoal keel prefered, pleanty of skinny water where I sail. I have seen some newer Hunters with the sugar scoop transom but they are out of our price range. Are they found on boats built between 1980 and 1990? Guessing newer than that would be out of our price range. Thanks Ward  

I know it's a little bigger than your looking but the King 40 has the whole cockpit open to the stern a really cool design  

Scott T-Bird

Here's a Hunter 265 ... In Mystic, Conn. for $7000. It is a fin keel with a shallow draft, perfect for your waters. It is a 1988 model and has the step-through transom. It fits your budget nicely and leaves you plenty of money for upgrades. I think the drawbacks are outboard motor and tiller steered, but many people consider those features as more attractive than the alternative. There is one of these on our lake that was for sale a few years ago. While it was in 'tired' condition, it is still a very nice boat. It was sold for quite a bit less than $7,000 as far as I know. I think this boat would be right up your alley! http://newport.boatshed.com/hunter_265-boat-124566.html  

Bad Obsession

try www.yachtworld.com Set the search perimeters and then take a look at all the different boats that come up!  

• This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more…