fairing a sailboat keel

The $tingy Sailor

Diy trailerable sailboat restoration and improvement without throwing your budget overboard.

fairing a sailboat keel

Refinish Your Swing Keel for Best Performance – Part 2: Cleaning

This post is the continuation of Refinish Your Swing Keel for Best Performance – Part 1: Removing . This week, I describe using hand tools and power tools to remove most of the old coatings and rust, one way to lift and move the keel so you can work on it elsewhere, and the different methods of removing the remaining rust either chemically or by sandblasting to prepare it for fairing. Fairing is the process of making the keel fair, meaning the right shape, smooth, and pretty.

In the previous post, I described getting the keel off of the sailboat. With the keel out where I could easily work on it, there wasn’t a lot of loose, flaking paint to scrape off like I expected. Most of it was pretty intact. There was what looked like original white gelcoat or some kind of thick paint over the bare iron followed by haphazardly applied patches of red Bondo filler over that, and several layers of red antifouling paint on top. At first, I thought the minimal flaking was a good sign, that the outer coating was fully intact and that there was minimal rust damage. That wishful thinking turned out to be very wrong.

Just a little off the top and sides, please

I started grinding the paint off partly because I wanted to know what and how many coatings were applied to the keel over the years and partly because I wanted to minimize the cost of sandblasting if I chose to have that done. I used a 4″ angle grinder but that was too slow. I also began discovering deeper flakes.

This is one of the restoration tasks that the Swing Keel Refinishing DVD glosses over. Maybe the job was easier back in 1999 when the DVD was made. Our keels have deteriorated for 15 more year since then. I switched to the more primitive method of hammering the loose material off in small sections. I alternated between hammering and then grinding three passes over each section to give my forearms time to rest. This seemed to work the fastest and with the least amount of effort, but it was still about 6 hours of messy, hard work.

BEFORE - Close-up after grinding

Most of the filler and paint crumbled off easily from the hammering. The gelcoat underneath it was more difficult in places and revealed light but widespread rust underneath.

Old C-22 keels are extremely porous and rust had penetrated up to half an inch deep in some spots. Don’t expect to grind down to flat, solid, shiny metal easily.

Depending on how you intend to deal with the rust, either mechanical removal by sandblasting or neutralizing it with chemicals, just take off the loose material down to reasonably solid metal and move on to the next step.

Holy holes, Batman

I was surprised at one spot near the MEXICO stamp to find an area where there was a lot of filler. By the time I had all the filler and loose chips of iron the size of silver dollars dug out, there was a pit in the keel about the diameter of a softball and as deep as a golf ball.

BEFORE - Large cavity discovered during grinding

Not all keels are as bad as mine, but don’t be surprised if yours is.

With all the old coatings removed, I moved the keel from my boat garage (barn) into my better lit and heated shop to make it easier to work on. It usually gets down to the single digits Fahrenheit here in Stingyland in the deep of winter. To do that single-handed, I erected a tripod of fence poles over the keel sled. I tied the top ends together with a chain to which I connected a come-along with a snatch block. I connected that in turn to a lifting strap slung around the keel.

Tripod, come-along, and tow strap used to flip and lift the keel for moving. That's Summer Dance hibernating in the background with my tractor implements

I was able to easily lift the keel enough to back my utility trailer underneath it before lowering the keel onto the trailer. The trailer made a useful workbench for the keel inside the shop and made it easy to move the keel by hand to wherever I needed it.

Other owners have used motorcycle lifts, engine hoists, or whatever they had on hand. The important thing to remember is to lift the keel in a balanced, well-controlled way. It’s balance point is not in the middle, lengthwise. It’s farther toward the lower end where the keel is thicker. If it gets even a little bit out of control, it’s probably going to fall and damage anything it its path.

Rust never rests

As you can see from the pictures above, which were taken the next day after grinding, rust forms almost immediately on the exposed iron. The day before, it was shiny metal. Granted, the humidity was pretty high when I was doing this (it was raining on and off), but I was very surprised at how fast the rust started. This is no high-tech alloy but nearly pure iron.

Some of the moisture was also coming out of the keel itself even after months of being out of the water. When I started work on the keel one day, I noticed small beads of moisture where I had ground the coatings off the night before. It wasn’t dew because the keel was inside my barn. And the “sweat” was on the underside of the keel.

This is proof that it’s a very good idea to let the keel dry out for at least several weeks after you clean it and before sealing it.

The Swing Keel Refinishing DVD recommends 30 days. The more, the better, I say, and if you have one of the moisture meters commonly used for woodworking, it will tell you when the keel is dry enough to seal.

Stop the decay with chemical treatment

Depending on how badly deteriorated your keel is, you can deal with the remaining rust in one of two ways. The DVD recommends grinding the old coatings off and most of the remaining rust before applying Permatex #81775 Rust Treatment (Extend) and proceeding with the fairing step. The rust treatment purportedly reacts with the iron oxide, renders it inert, and encapsulates it in a polymer barrier. It is supposed to stop future rust and make a good base on which to build up the foil shape with filler material. POR-15 is a similar product used by some owners. If your rust isn’t very bad, this could be a good way to go.

Blast it to oblivion

The other option you can take is to sandblast the keel down to solid, clean iron and then seal it with regular two-part epoxy or an epoxy primer paint. The advantage is that you can be sure virtually all the surface rust is removed and all rust pockets opened and cleaned out. You can’t do that by grinding alone and if you have a very porous keel, it’s questionable whether you can reach it all with chemical treatments short of completely immersing the keel. This is a better solution if you have extensive rust and a very porous keel.

I was fortunate and got a quote of $77 for sandblasting from a local shop, Northwest Sandblast and Paint , so that was the route I took. Other owners refinishing their keels at about the same time paid two to three times that amount in other parts of the country. Northwest Sandblast and Paint used copper slag as the abrasive media. They did a good job and protected the pivot pin and eye bolt as I instructed them. I can’t help but think that the preliminary cleaning that I did paid off in keeping the cost down. Time and money well spent, I’d say.

After sandblasting and hung by cables for easier working

If you take the sandblasting route, you should plan to completely seal the keel as quickly as possible after sandblasting to avoid rust starting on the freshly exposed surface.

In the pictures above and below, you can see a hand-sized rust patch caused by the keel laying on a damp forklift pallet. That formed in the few hours between when the keel came out of the sandblasting booth and when these pictures were taken. To remove it, I dried it thoroughly with a heat gun, applied Naval Jelly for 5-10 minutes, then washed it off, and dried again. Easy-peasy.

Close-up of the cavity and surrounding pits after sandblasting

With the keel completely clean, you can easily see the low quality of the crude casting process that was used to make the early keels. The port side is better shaped and the surface is smoother and relatively pit-free. I suspect that was at the bottom of the mold. The starboard side is flatter and riddled with bubbles and pits. I suspect that was at the top of the mold and it was incompletely filled.

The next step in restoring the keel is described in the next post, Refinish your swing keel for best performance – Part 3: Fairing . In that post, I describe the fairing system I used, how to seal a freshly sandblasted keel, the foil curve template for getting the right keel shape, applying body filler to build up that shape, and paying extra attention to the shape of the leading edge of the keel.

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4 thoughts on “ refinish your swing keel for best performance – part 2: cleaning ”.

Good coverage of the 2nd step. Question: You said, “and protected the pivot pin and eye bolt as I instructed them” How / what was this “protection” done? thanks, James

I wrapped them good in duct tape but I also warned them. I wasn’t as worried about the eyebolt since it’s stainless steel but I didn’t want them blasting the softer brass pivot pin, which was like new.

Its really shocking the defect in that keel casting. When I do this in the spring I will look closely at mine.

And mine isn’t the worst that I’ve seen by far. It seems that there was no such thing as a rejected keel back then, only some that needed more work than others before they were bolted onto the hulls.

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Keels: Minor Maintenance and Repair

Remedies for rusty iron keels.

fairing a sailboat keel

The best way to treat an iron keel that’s rusting is to sandblast the whole thing and apply a complete, new, epoxy-based coating system. But that’s not always feasible or desirable. Because of the mess involved, many boat yards do not allow sandblasting. Even when this is permissable, a complete recoating job also means a complete re-fairing job, and that in turn means lots and lots and lots of slow, boring, dirty work if anything approaching a proper, smooth foil is to be achieved.

Keels: Minor Maintenance and Repair

Because of the problems involved in complete refinishing of an iron keel, patch painting of rusted spots is often the only practical way to go.

Begin by cleaning the rusted spots as thoroughly as possible. Take your time here as this is the most important step. Chip off any scale with a cold chisel or welder’s chipping hammer, then wire brush-use a drill-powered brush where possible – and sand with coarse paper until you’re down to clean, bright iron. Use fine sandpaper (#150) to feather in surrounding, sound paint, and you’re ready for your new coating. Get paint on the bare, prepared iron as soon as possible. Iron will begin to oxidize almost immediately, and leaving it bare overnight will make much of your preparation go for naught.

Unfortunately, the best possible anti-rust coatings – those with epoxy bases which are true vapor barriers – are not compatible with other paints. Epoxies just won’t stick to other coatings; and, thus, because patch painting must lap over onto other paint, epoxies can’t be used in this application.

Our own experience backs up the recommendations of the paint manufacturers. The best coating to use in patch painting iron is zinc chromate paint. All the major manufacturers of marine coatings make a good zinc chromate. Take your choice and follow the directions. The most important rule to follow is three coats must be used. The object is to form as nearly an impenetrable barrier to water as possible, and three coats give a far better chance than one or two.

Patch painting isn’t the ultimate answer. Actually the ultimate solution isn’t even the sandblast – epoxy route. It’s replacing the damned iron with lead. But that’s even less economically feasible than sandblasting! Careful preparation and three coats of zinc chromate paint, however, make for a good, economically and manpower effective, finite solution.

-John Pazereskis

As a rule, lead keels require far less care than iron. Nevertheless, they are not maintenance free. While you don’t normally think of your lead keel as corroding away, lead keels can develop significant problems that both degrade performance and reduce the value of your boat.

The main culprit is bottom paints with a high copper content. Copper paint on a lead keel creates a galvanic couple, just as copper paint does on an iron keel. Fortunately, the difference in potential between lead and copper is far less than the difference between iron and copper, so that corrosion problems are commensurately smaller.

Keels: Minor Maintenance and Repair

However, it is common to see lead keels with crumbly, whitish surface deposits, which when scraped away reveal a porous surface where the lead has corroded. Fortunately, the surface of a lead keel does not corrode and pit in the same manner as an iron keel, and reasonable repairs can be made without expensive equipment.

A drill-powered wire brush will usually grind away surface deposits and do an adequate job of cleaning out shallow corroded areas. It is important to remove as much of the crumbly oxidized lead as possible, to create a good surface for filler bonding.

With the lead clean and bright, fill corroded areas immediately with an epoxy filler. The best epoxy fillers for this purpose are the ones you make yourself from epoxy resin, such as the Gougeon Brothers West System epoxy, and a filler such as phenolic microballoons or microspheres. Remember that lead is pretty soft, and you don’t want your filler to be significantly harder than the surrounding material.

When filling, give the area to be faired a prime coat of unfilled epoxy before applying the thickened epoxy mixture. This will allow a better bond between the filler and the surface. You can allow the clear epoxy to partially kick off before over-coating with filler, but don’t let it cure completely or you’ll get a poor bond.

When the filler has cured, sand or plane it level and smooth. A belt sander or conventional hand bench plane can be used, since lead planes almost as easily as wood.

With all corroded areas and damaged areas cleaned and filled, sand or wire brush the rest of the keel to bright metal. A belt sander or disc sander works fine here, although proper use of either tool to avoid gouging the surface takes a little practice. A lead keel is far easier to bring to bright metal than an iron keel. The fin keel of a 30-footer can be done in an hour or so.

To make sure your keel doesn’t begin to corrode again, you must completely isolate the surface of the keel from the bottom paint with an epoxy barrier.

This is a two-stage process. First, the keel must be primed with a vinyl primer, such as Regatta Vinyltex 50/51 or Interlux Viny-Lux Primewash 353. The primed keel can then be over-coated with an epoxy mastic such as Regatta Epoxydur Mastic 3630-3631. Surface preparation and the timing of application of the coats of vinylepoxy systems are critical, so the manufacturer’s instructions must be followed to the letter.

Keels: Minor Maintenance and Repair

The epoxy mastic coating does not sand well, so special care must be taken in application to get a smooth keel surface. This same epoxy system can be used on iron keels that have been blasted or ground to bright metal, but is only effective on a completely clean surface free of any rust or scale.

Several coats of the epoxy mastic can be used. The thicker the coating, the more effective the barrier between the keel.

The only drawback of epoxy sealing of an external keel is that it no longer functions as a good ground plane for Loran and single sideband, or as access to ground in a lightning protection system. To compensate, you should install an external grounding plate such as the Dynaplate.

Surface corrosion is not limited to the lead keels on older boats. Poorly alloyed keels on new boats can also corrode. Fortunately, the cure is not difficult – only labor intensive – and the prognosis is for complete recovery and a long life. Yearly checkups are recommended, with local retreatment as necessary.

Beauty of Internal Ballast Really Is Skin Deep

If you’re gloating because you think your encapsulated keel frees you from any worries, forget it. Encapsulated ballast frequently requires more complicated care than an external ballast keel.

The danger is damage to the fiberglass shell surrounding the keel.

Even if you haven’t run aground this year, there’s a good chance that some where along the way you have acquired at least some superficial gouges in the lower part of the keel shell. These should be treated before they become problems. Even superficial damage to the gelcoat can allow water penetration into the laminate.

Treatment of superficial gouges in gelcoat or the first layers of the laminate is straightforward. First, wash the damaged area thoroughly with high pressure fresh water. Dry the gouged area with a handheld hair dryer. Roughen the edges of the gouge with very course sandpaper – 50 grit or 36 grit.

Wash the area again thoroughly with acetone. Use a small, stiff bristle brush to clean the gouge completely. Dry again with the hair dryer, after most of the acetone has flashed off. Don’t breathe the stuff.

With the area thoroughly clean and dry, brush on a clear coat of epoxy resin, followed by resin thickened with microspheres or micro-balloons. Stick waxed paper over the epoxy patch to keep the epoxy from sagging out.

When it’s dry, sand smooth and touch up any voids or hollows with more filled epoxy.

When everything is filled, prime the patch and the surrounding area with a two part epoxy primer, such as Woolsey MFP. This is important, because the gelcoat that you have sanded is now pretty porous, and is more likely to develop blisters than polished gelcoat.

More extensive damage to encapsulated keels, requiring structural fiberglass repair, will be dealt with in another article. How do you tell if you’ve got structural damage? As a rule, any time the shell is ground away so that any of the ballast is exposed, or any time laminate is exposed over an area’ greater than a square foot, you probably need to do more than patch with putty. 

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keel fairing

Discussion in ' Sailboats ' started by rapscallion , Jan 12, 2007 .

rapscallion

rapscallion Senior Member

I have a laser 28 and I would like to fair the keel. After reading some of the threads concerning this I see there are a lot of people her that know a lot more than I do about naca foils. Where would I start with this project? The keel is not symmetrical, so it is difficult for me figure out wich naca foil to go with. The information I have on leway angles comes from an IRC rating that when back calculated to phrf gives a score of 150. There are sailore that can easially sail the boat to a 126 rating, so I feel these numbers are suspect.  

Tim B

Tim B Senior Member

I'll assume you have a single keel, not two assymetric keels. A single Assymetrical keel will cause you to go faster on one tack than the other. In normal sailing this isn't a good thing, though it is used extensively in speed sailing. Unless you really want to get involved in the very detailed design, an NACA-0010 or 0012 section is probably as good as any. The thickness will, obviously, depend on the current keel shape. Get a few profiles printed at scale (QCAD is a freee 2D CAD package if you need one). Back them with something rigid (eg. thin ply), cut them out (carefully) and offer them up to the keel. The gap between the template and keel will need to be made up somehow. Cheers, Tim B.  

Paul B

Paul B Previous Member

Tim B said: ↑ Unless you really want to get involved in the very detailed design, an NACA-0010 or 0012 section is probably as good as any. Click to expand...

Tactic

Tactic Junior Member

Paul B,could you give examples of foil types you think would be of use in this case and similar cases? I am thinking of a new keel for my boat.  
I thought someone would say that. It depends where you want the maximum performace. Downwind with little leeway, a laminar section may well be better. Turbulent se4ctions may be better up-wind. It all depends on the rest of the yacht (and keel planform area etc.) Pure theory may suggest one foil is much better than another, in reality, the slightest bit of dirt or marine growth will reduce the advantage considerably. Keel design is not a closed book, there is a lot more work to be done. However much work is done into yacht balance , keel and rudder design, there will still be personal preferences and an awful lot of misguided advice. Tim B.  
I couldn't find anything in the class rules concerning the class keel shape. I believe the boat has downwind performance; I was hoping to choose a foil shape that would help with uphill performance. Any suggestions on that foil shapes to look at first?  

Crag Cay

Crag Cay Senior Member

www.computerkeels.com These people can provide you with a keel profile template for the Laser 28. Due to the planform of your keel you will need four templates of different lengths. Total cost 250 dollars or so. Look under the listings for 'Universal Templates'.  

Mikey

Mikey Senior Member

Be careful with trying to modify anything to gain performance in this area if you are not experienced and have quite a lot of knowledge... NACA-0010-12 is always a decent choice but will it be better than what you already have?  
Tim B said: ↑ there will still be personal preferences and an awful lot of misguided advice. Tim B. Click to expand...
rapscallion said: ↑ I couldn't find anything in the class rules concerning the class keel shape. I believe the boat has downwind performance; I was hoping to choose a foil shape that would help with uphill performance. Any suggestions on that foil shapes to look at first? Click to expand...

yokebutt

yokebutt Boatbuilder

Since the Laser 28 was designed by proper naval architects, there won't be much gain in a section different from what was designed for it. Some boats (J24 notably) that have the keel (or rig) in the wrong place to begin with or had an inappropriate section chosen are another story.  
Thank you all for your input and suggestions. Contacting the class association is a good idea.  

RHough

RHough Retro Dude

It's been a few years since I've done any aircraft design ... I don't remember any Eppler sections that had a drag bucket much wider than the 6 series. Has anyone looked at Selig sections? Here's a graph that points out the difference between a 00 series and a 6x series foil  

Attached Files:

Figure4.jpg.

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Raggi_Thor

Raggi_Thor Nav.arch/Designer/Builder

For a small keelboat on a trailer where you can polish the keel before every race it may make sense to use a 63 profile, on a dingy, wouldn't you lift the board downwind? And on larger boats you have antifouling and fouling that probably ruin the more advanced profiles?  

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12-05-2021, 09:14  
Boat: Pearson 33-2 1988
and I'd like some .

I’m in the final stages of keel/hull fairing and painting (and found this video which appears to be good advice…feel free to confirm or confute….)


In a few small areas of the I am down to lead and need to know best practices for prep before filling/fairing? Will adhere without an intermediary agent?
12-05-2021, 09:56  
Boat: Cutter-Rigged Moody 54
a couple of years ago, investing a lot of labor into that, and the and everything fell right off of it two-pack primer which was specifically ok for lead.

The very nice guy who did my keel last year told me my mistake was not immediately applying the primer. He said that lead oxidizes quickly and that epoxy doesn't stick to the oxidization. He said you have to within a hour (or something) of sandblasting.

Don't know if that's true, but his seems to be holding up. I found nothign about that in all my careful reading leading up to doing it myself.

I suggest doing thorough on the correct procedure and materials.





12-05-2021, 14:07  
Boat: 47' Steel Roberts Cutter
, wears the tee shirt and is willing to share to help others.

Thanks DH
12-05-2021, 15:10  
Boat: 1976 Sabre 28-2
I've heard is to use a wire brush to apply the epoxy coating after sanding/blasting to bright medal. The wire brush will insure getting the epoxy or whatever onto unoxidized surface.
13-05-2021, 08:28  
Boat: 1975 Tartan 41'
13-05-2021, 08:34  
Boat: Former owner of a Valiant V40
13-05-2021, 08:54  
Boat: 1968 Columbia 36
when i had some exposed lead after checking on keel-hull joint.


Sand whole area down to fresh lead right before applying epoxy primer.
Clean and degrease as normal.
Apply first coat of epoxy primer to exposed lead and wet sand it into the lead with very rough sand paper ( I used 60 grit). This will be messy.... The wet gets the epoxy into fresh lead that is never exposed to the air to oxidize.
I then followed that up with a hammer and chisel to cross the lead under the still wet epoxy.
Brush/roll the epoxy smooth again. continue as normal with all top coats. As far as I know stuck perfectly.
13-05-2021, 09:07  
Boat: 47' Steel Roberts Cutter
, wears the tee shirt and is willing to share to help others.

Thanks DH
13-05-2021, 16:53  
Boat: O'Day 34
keel stub continuously weeped when and slowly leaked into the when in the . After several tries at grinding and sealing with 5200 I bit the bullet and ground the joint down to the gel coat and bare lead with an angle grinder using 40 grit. I immediately saturated 12” wide strips of 16 oz. bi-axial FG with epoxy resin and applied it to the keel joint, again saturating it and rolling the excess resin out. I repeated this process for a total of 2 layers. The next day, I ground the glass and lead again and Applied fairing compound. After fairing, I ground it once more and immediately applied 5 coats of 2-part barrier coat epoxy, waiting the appropriate time between coats. I then applied 4 coats of SeaHawk Cupracoat . I’ve had it during season for the past 2 years and it hasn’t weeped a drop of and the looks great.  
 
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filling and fairing cast iron keels

  • Thread starter dunkelly
  • Start date 3 Oct 2020

Anyone any thoughts on the merits or otherwise of filling and fairing badly pitted cast iron keels .  

Well-known member

Seems reasonable; I would think major pitting would create turbulent flow over the keel.  

wully1

I kind of half did mine... in the past I’ve found they just rust again so didn’t expend too much effort on that job but I’d aquired a Terco Blaster so gave it a go. Got to say how impressed I am by it - took my keel back to the metal in very short order. So then I tried applying some Fertan which was equally impressive but I’ll wait to see hoe completely impressed I am in a few months time. I filled in the worst of the pitting with some ‘marine’ epoxy filler then primed and anti fouled just before the rain came on otherwise I might have spent more time filling. I’ll make a better job of it next lift if the Fertan works..  

Active member

To get the job done if you have an SDS drill, you can get a needle gun attachment that remove the rust well. I believe it is an annual chore along with the antifowling. (Katy Louise has encapsulated lead ballast.)  

convey

Slight aside, be wary while using a heavy duty twisted wire brush cup on them. They have sufficient bite to remove chunks from the edges even with a fairly low powered angle grinder. Ask me how I know ... Worth using the search feature as this is discussed often here and on other forums. Which boat?  

wully1 said: I’d aquired a Terco Blaster so gave it a go. Got to say how impressed I am by it Click to expand...
Lucy52 said: you can get a needle gun attachment that remove the rust well Click to expand...
convey said: be wary while using a heavy duty twisted wire brush cup on them Click to expand...
Lucy52 said: I believe it is an annual chore along with the antifowling. Click to expand...
wully1 said: I’ll make a better job of it next lift if the Fertan works.. Click to expand...

rogerthebodger

Following all the chipping and blasting paint on sone brick cleaner to remove any pust left. then wash with fresh water the paint on phosphoric acid before painting and filling . If you don't remove all the microscopic rust it will just come back.  

Dankilb , the instructions say to wash off the dust before overcoating The Fertan? I wiped it off but there was still residue coming off on my fingers when I primed it which is a bit of a worry.  

fairing a sailboat keel

wully1 said: Dankilb , the instructions say to wash off the dust before overcoating The Fertan? I wiped it off but there was still residue coming off on my fingers when I primed it which is a bit of a worry. Click to expand...
dankilb said: Yes, absolutely, the dust seems pretty stubborn, even after washing. Plus the higher-tech paint systems for this sort of application are specified for bare metal, whereas with Fertan (or Vactan or Hydrate80 etc.) there is still a layer of unspecified something below the paint! Click to expand...

pvb

wully1 said: I suppose I’ll find out in a year or so... Click to expand...

I stripped my keel before going back in this year. Tercoo for first strip for old filler and loose rust, then polycarbide disks on grinder. Cleaned back with thinners then zinc based 2-pack epoxy primer, fairing filler/sanding, another zinc primer, 2 coats of epoxy primer for antifoul, 2 coats of hard antifoul. I'll let you know at the end of the month how it fared (albeit a short season).  

Zagato

RUST CURERS. The most common way to cure rust is to use an acid convertor, these are most commonly water based, epoxy (glue) based or gel based. They have an acid content roughly somewhere between 4-8%. The names of these you will recognise as Ku-Rust, Jenolite, Fertan, etc and then company named products that sell you a complete rust cure and protection system such as Dinitrol, Supertrol, Bilt Hamber, POR-15, Buzz Weld etc. ACF-50 is an entirely different product and not relevant for keels, very good stuff however! For any of these rust convertors to cure the rust, the corrosion has to be taken right back to pretty much bare metal for them to be 100% effective, this is why they have not worked for the majority of cases of DIYers! Unfortunately they do not soak into deep rusty metal or even shallow rust. You really have to get the surface rust right back to near good metal, every pit, every rust worm and of course this is not easy where welds or seams are involved. RUST PREVENTORS So with expected results to be poor, very tough, or thick or rock hard rust "preventers" are used to coat over the rust convertor as part of a rust protection package. Some of these products are misleading as they say they stop rust... they don,t they just stop rust showing through. In fact long term they can be worse in many situations as they trap in the rust and moisture when a gap is created from corrosion underneath and it actually accelerates the rust. Sometimes if the metal was just open to the elements to dry out say on a car chassis it would have been better... I.e. Just spraying with oil actually can be very effective... no good for a keel of course. Rust preventors like POR-15 chassis original, which used to be marketed with the toughness of being resistant to hitting it with a hammer do have there place. They are excellent for protecting guaranteed rust free metal that is new or has been shot blasted for instance or as part of a treatment where the metal in question will take years to rot out anyway, e.g. Thick heavy duty axles. Unfortunately these products are used to hide rust and they can mislead many customers into thinking they do actually stop corrosion. Sadly they are becoming more widespread on the market, one company actually uses a video of a bloke painting his rusty trailer in the rain claiming that it will stop his rust... sigh! This is all just happening as effective clear coat products have recently been developed such as Dinitrol 4010. Sorry this Is more vehicle based insight now. This is great as you can keep an eye on the areas you have previously treated over the years and if you request it, it will stop all the cowboys in the undersealing world just slapping on rock hard coverings or thick coverings that hides the complete lack of preparation to the metal. Easy money for them! Thankfully most do a good job.  

MikeCC said: I stripped my keel before going back in this year. Tercoo for first strip for old filler and loose rust, then polycarbide disks on grinder. Cleaned back with thinners then zinc based 2-pack epoxy primer, fairing filler/sanding, another zinc primer, 2 coats of epoxy primer for antifoul, 2 coats of hard antifoul. I'll let you know at the end of the month how it fared (albeit a short season). Click to expand...

Are there no electronic rust proof protection systems, like Finalcoat for cars?  

Birdseye

convey said: Are there no electronic rust proof protection systems, like Finalcoat for cars? Click to expand...
Birdseye said: But what do you do about the keel joint? Or the bottom of the keels where they ground? Truth is, the keels should be lead not iron. Click to expand...

Lucky Duck

convey said: Excuse the idiot's question, how would lead work for keels that were structural, as on typical bilge keels that support the boat on the hard? I've seen a gentleman make up kevlar shoes for his boat, a shallow draft, centre keeled clinker that is ,as per tradition, pulled up and left on gravel beaches. No idea of the likely longevity, does anyone have any idea? Joints is a problem, I'm presuming they flex a little and that blending them over and joining the matt to the hull is out of the question, or is it? (I've seen the photos of a fully encapsulated bilge keeler that lower edge had worn through and ballast dropped out). Is part of the problem that we're just getting into the end phase of this issue due to the age of the respective boats? As in it's just becoming an issue now for 60s, 70s boats? I've seen an old, very abandonned Westerly who keels where flaking apart impressively, crumbling like old slate, and I would have thought there's were of a better batch of castings. What's the sticking value of matt covering them even when allowing for the joint? As in how long will it remain sufficiently stuck to act as a rot deterent? Click to expand...

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fairing a sailboat keel

Did Bayesian superyacht’s 237ft mast cause it to sink?

B ayesian’s 237ft metal mast may have played a part in the sinking of the superyacht off the coast of Sicily , experts have suggested.

The yacht, named after the mathematical theory Mike Lynch used to make his millions in the tech industry, foundered in the small hours of Monday morning.

Key among potential reasons for the loss of the vessel will be its most striking feature – the aluminium mast.

Four British personnel from the Marine Accident Investigation Branch are on their way to Palermo to carry out a preliminary assessment.

There are also theories that hot overnight temperatures of 27C (80C) could have prompted passengers to leave portholes and windows open – hastening the sinking when the high winds hit.

Launched in 2008 by Perini Navi, Bayesian is one of the 50 largest sailing yachts in the world and her mammoth mast supported a total sail area of almost 32,000 sq ft.

Bayesian had the tallest aluminium mast in the world when it first took to the seas under her former name Salute. The record was overtaken last year when Jeff Bezos, the Amazon billionaire launched his yacht, Koru.

Koru’s masts stretch to 278ft tall according to Boat International magazine.

Tom Sharpe, a former Royal Navy commander and warship captain, said initial reports from survivors and witnesses suggested “that the weather was sufficiently violent to cause her to capsize at anchor”.

Weather reports from Palermo airport, 12 miles west of the yacht, suggest that at about 4am, winds switched from a gentle south-westerly breeze to gusts of 40mph, with temperatures dropping.

Local newspapers have described the weather as a tornado and a waterspout, which is a tornado above water.

The pressure of high winds on the mast could have helped tip the boat over in rough seas, experts have suggested.

Mr Sharpe said capsizing seemed “unlikely” to him given the Bayesian’s size “and that boats like that are designed to survive poor weather – unless something failed at the same time like a valve that let water in and made the whole boat unstable”.

He said it was more likely that the Bayesian had “dragged anchor”. Anchors are designed to lodge on rocks on the seabed, but if the seabed is too soft, or weather is so bad that the anchor is dislodged, then a boat can drag its anchor and drift.

If a boat drifts into an obstruction such as a rock or another boat, this can damage the boat by tearing a hole in its side leading to sinking, Mr Sharpe suggested.

The sea bed off Porticello, the Silician harbour nearest to where Bayesian was moored for the night, consists of a mixture of rocky and muddy areas, according to nautical charts reviewed by The Telegraph.

This means the yacht could have dragged anchor if it had been lowered into a soft, muddy patch of seabed.

A captain of another boat anchored nearby said his vessel was hit by abnormally strong winds on Monday morning.

Karsten Borner said the Sir Robert BP was battered by strong gusts in the early hours of the morning but he managed to stabilise the vessel while anchored by using the engine.

He said as they were doing this, they noticed the Bayesian nearby and manoeuvred to avoid hitting it.

“We managed to keep the ship in position, and after the storm was over, we noticed that the ship behind us was gone,” said Capt Borner.

Mr Sharpe said: “From a seamanship point of view, the other boat (Sir Robert BP) coming up on her main engines and using those to keep position around [her own] anchor is what you should do. Yacht anchors are often not that robust and that is the best way to avoid putting too much strain on it and/or dragging.”

An alternative theory is that the weight of the mast led the Bayesian to capsize.

A yacht industry source told The Times that the vessel sank after the weight of her mast took the hull beyond its “down-flooding angle” – the point at which a boat cannot right itself after swinging at a steep angle – meaning water rushed over the sides into the interior.

“The wind toppled the mast, which fell over the side, causing the boat to heel over and take on water, capsize and sink very quickly,” the source said.

This can occur whether the mast snapped off or not.

Sam Jefferson, editor of Sailing Today, told The Telegraph: “She has a very tall, aluminium mast – I believe it is the second tallest aluminium mast in the world – and that would not have helped.

“Many yachts with big masts have carbon masts instead of aluminium as these save on weight and improve stability and performance.

“Stability was obviously the problem in the extremely strong winds she was experiencing and I’d assume the boat was pinned on its side and could not right before it filled up with water.”

Another superyacht expert who asked not to be named told The Telegraph that the mast could have pulled the Bayesian over into capsizing, although he expressed some scepticism, saying sailing yachts are designed to prevent that from happening.

He said the anchor-dragging theory was also a plausible explanation for why the Bayesian sank.

Typically, crews try to anchor in safe spots that are sheltered away from the wind, they said.

The Bayesian was moored just off Porticello, a few miles east of Palermo. Prevailing winds from the north-east may have robbed the vessel of the shelter offered by the Sicilian coast, which lay to the west.

Dr Lynch was reportedly aboard the vessel. His wife, Angela Bacares, is among those rescued but six others, including four Britons, are still missing.

One person, reportedly the yacht’s chef, died in the incident and his body was recovered by rescuers.

The Bayesian’s last refit was in 2020.

The vessel was listed for rent for up to €195,000 (£166,000) a week, according to online charter websites.

The interior featured six cabins – one master, three doubles and two twin rooms – for up to a dozen guests, with the crew occupying separate quarters.

Fitted out in a Japanese style, the interior was styled by the Remi Tessler design house.

Under her former name Salute, the yacht won the Best Exterior prize at the World Superyacht Awards in 2009, and the Best Interior at the International Superyacht Society Awards in 2008.

A coastguard statement issued on Monday morning said the missing passengers were of “British, American and Canadian nationality”.

Camper & Nicholsons, managers of the Bayesian, confirmed the vessel sank at about 4.30am following “severe weather”.

The Italian Coast Guard is leading search and rescue operations, and said on Monday it had safely recovered 15 individuals.

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The Bayesian had the tallest mast in the world until it was overtaken by Jeff Bezos's boat

Experts puzzle over why Bayesian yacht sank. Was it a 'black swan event'?

Portrait of Cybele Mayes-Osterman

The Bayesian set off on a leisurely cruise around Italy's southern coast on a sunny day in late July.

The luxurious super yacht − which boasted one of the largest masts in the world and carried a crew of business moguls, including British tech tycoon Mike Lynch and his family and a chair of Morgan Stanley − set sail from the Amalfi Coast, bound for Sicily.

Less than a month later, the ship had sunk 160 feet under the water , leaving its cook dead and six of its passengers, including at least two Americans, missing and prompting a massive search that has drawn international attention.

Now, experts are trying to piece together why in the early hours Monday the Bayesian was quickly pulled under the waves amid a storm that saw at least one tornado spin up over the water.

A perfect storm led to Bayesian sinking, experts say

The combination of unlikely factors that could have contributed to the ship's fate constituted a "black swan event," Matthew Schanck, chairman of the Maritime Search and Rescue Council, told USA TODAY.

The Bayesian was well-built: A 2008 product of Italian ship maker Perini, it was constructed in accordance with international maritime standards and commercially certified by the U.K.'s Maritime and Coastguard Agency, according to Schanck.

The bout of bad weather that swept the area when the ship went down was also out of the ordinary in the northern Mediterranean, "which isn't renowned for prolonged, significant stormy weather," he said.

"The fact that those two elements have then resulted in the foundering of a super yacht is pretty extraordinary," Schanck said. "These things don't happen every day."

After the ship sank just before 5 a.m. local time, 15 people, including a 1-year-old, were pulled from the water. Some were rescued from a life raft by the crew of a ship docked nearby.

Ricardo Thomas, the ship's cook and a native of Antigua, was found dead, according to authorities.

As of Tuesday, six people were missing, including Lynch and his 18-year-old daughter. Several missing passengers were involved in Lynch's trial on fraud charges, including Jonathan Bloomer, a Morgan Stanley chair who served as his character witness, and one of Lynch's attorneys. Lynch, accused of fraud after he sold his company to electronics giant Hewlett-Packard, was acquitted of all charges weeks ago.

Who is Mike Lynch? UK entrepreneur among those missing after superyacht sinks off Sicily

Tornado formed over unusually hot water

Storms in the area that night may have whipped up a water spout, a tornado over the water , according to local meteorologists.

It was likely triggered by the water's unusual warmth, said Rick Shema, a certified consulting meteorologist who served in the Navy.

"The water spout was an uncommon occurrence," he said. "But again, these things happen, especially in warmer water."

At 83.7 degrees, water in the area was more than 3 degrees hotter than average on the day the Bayesian sank, likely the result of climate change, Shema said.

"Hurricanes can form at 80 degrees. This was almost four degrees higher than that," he said.

The water spout may have spun up when cooler air dropped from mountainous places nearby onto the hot water, he said. "A water spout is a vortex, basically like a tornado, spinning real fast, sucking up water and moisture as the column rises," he said.

Although water spouts only reach around 120 mph, as compared to tornadoes on land, which can reach up to 300 mph, "you don't need 200 mph to sink a ship," he said.

"Even an average tornado, 120 miles an hour, that's a lot of wind," he said, "which would heel the boat over for sure."

Water spouts spring up suddenly, Shema said. Before they strike, winds can be slow, but "once the water spout comes over, bam, it's on," he said.

Before sunrise, the ship's crew may not have seen the water spout coming. "The visibility was probably a big factor," he said.

With the windows of the yacht opened, as they likely were in the hot weather, the water spout could have triggered water that flooded through the portholes, Shema said, causing the ship to sink.

Tragedy strikes: Scramble to find survivors after Bayesian yacht sinks off Sicily coast

Search continues, but shift to recovery phase approaches

Italian authorities said the Bayesian was probably at anchor when the storm struck, meaning it couldn't maneuver and ride the waves, according to Mitchell Stoller, a captain and maritime expert witness. Other ships in the area that turned on their engines rode out the storm, he said.

"When you're at anchor and you see weather, you start your engine and you put the wind on the bow. You don't let it get on the side," he said.

Schanck said another key question concerns the position of the keel, a heavy weight underneath the boat that acts as a counterbalance to keep it upright, when the ship sank. When lifted, "that's going to affect the stability of the vessel, because, obviously, you've now raised the center of gravity of that vessel," he said.

The Bayesian was floating over 160 feet of water at the time, deep enough that the keel would likely be deployed. But the fact that "the vessel heeled over so heavily makes me question that," Schanck said.

The cause of the disaster may not be known until the ship can be examined in more detail, experts say. Prosecutors in a nearby town have already opened an investigation.

Schanck said investigators will have plenty to work with once the operation moves into a recovery phase.

"The vessel is intact and in good condition on the seabed," he said. "There's a lot of eyewitness accounts from other vessels in the area and the shore."

As the search entered its second day on Tuesday, the rescue effort may shift in that direction soon. "I suspect, later on, today or tomorrow, we'll probably see some mention of a recovery operation being stated," Schanck said.

The decision to would depend on whether rescuers find signs of life in the ship and air pockets or survivable spaces, Schanck said. At this point, survivors on the water's surface looks unlikely. "My professional opinion is that the casualties will be located within the vessel," he said.

"There is a risk versus benefit in all maritime search and rescue incidents," he said. "Where we start transitioning to a recovery phase, that line shifts."

Contributing: Reuters

Cybele Mayes-Osterman is a breaking news reporter for USA Today. Reach her on email at [email protected]. Follow her on X @CybeleMO.

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Cast Iron Keel Renovation - WS Epoxy vs. Barrier Coat first sealing layer

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Hello, This is my first posting to Sailnet, and actually to any forum such as this. I am a new sailboat owner, of a rhodes 19 Keel version sailboat. I am in the process of completely renovating it from hardware to the keel. I have ground down the keel to bare metal and am now debating what to do next. I have spoken to several other owners and received very good information that all is similar to what is typically posted on the internet. Primarily everyone says to use epoxy, then use epoxy with filler, sand, then bottom paint. One individual mentioned that if he were to do it all again he would use barrier coat instead of west systems epoxy as the first coat. What are peoples thoughts on this? As barrier coats have become much better over time, the barrier coats today are pretty much epoxy with water barrier ability and are rock hard. Could this be a better first sealing layer on the iron? I was also thinking of using OSPHO rust inhibitor to hopefully impede future rust development. Any comments thoughts would be appreciated. Sorry for the length! Ed  

I did this early summer on my Catalina 22 swing keel (cast iron): Sandblasted to bare metal, 3 coats Interlux Interprotect 2000e, then bottom paint. Dove the boat after 6 months to clean and looks like it did when I finished. Time will tell. The Interlux was recommended by several local marine hardware places. My understanding is rust begins immediately, so time is of the essence after sandblasting, as to not encapsulate the rust...  

Thanks. I plan on regrinding/sanding before putting OSHPHO rust inhibitor on. After this drys and hardens. I will eventually resand again once more before then immediately sealing with epoxy or a barrier coat. I did not have the keel sandblasted so getting every bit f rust off is next to impossiible, hence my use of the OSPHO, which is supposed to chemically change any small remaining rust areas into a inert material that won't rust. I hope it works as marketed.  

fairing a sailboat keel

When I did the iron keel on my Columbia 43 I had it sandblasted and immediately coated with epoxy (not WEST - too expensive & no better than all the rest). Because the iron was pitted, casting flaws exposed etc. I wanted to fair it up before putting a finish on it. I coated it with epoxy & talc, thickened to peanut butter consistency, using a 1/4" notched trowel. This left a surface 1/4" deep but full of grooves down to the keel surface. I then went over it again with a smooth trowel to fill in all the grooves. The result was a uniform 1/4" deep coat of filler. If you have the skill of a plasterer you can do this in one pass but I don't so this gave me a uniform depth. I used talc as the filler on the recommendations of the yard owner - an old salt German who started life as a journeyman plasterer. It's dirt cheap - a cement bag of it was about $20. It also provides a beautiful surface for sanding - not too hard and leaves a very fine surface. I now use it exclusively for any filling that requires a "finished" surface. Sanded everything with a 16" sanding board from an auto body supply shop - it uses pre-cut strips of 17 1/2" sandpaper. The board has a handle and knob like a hand wood plane and the strips of sandpaper clip on at each end. Sand the filler diagonally, as you would any compound curved surface - car body, boat hull etc. Depending how corroded your keel is, you may have to do this process more than once. Be careful not to sand through to bare metal - if you do, IMMEDIATELY coat it with epoxy or filler to prevent oxidation from forming. Once you are satisfied with the surface, wipe it down with solvent - acetone, MEK - whatever you prefer. Now you are ready for the final finish coats. I chose three coats of epoxy resin followed by two coats of InterProtect. This was mainly due to some rather widespread disagreement as to what was best at that time. I think now that I would use just Interprotect. Now you're ready for bottom paint and if you were diligent during your filling and sanding, you should have the next best thing to a templated keel. P.S. Grinding an iron keel isn't good enough - must sandblast. Every single iron keel I have seen hand prepped via grinding and wire brushing etc. has had a limited life before needing it again. Sandblasting means it will last WAY longer.  

fairing a sailboat keel

Thanks Saildork! Do you mean to soap and water wash the OSPHO'd surface before applying the first epoxy coating? Let dry overnight or over several days, then light sand to prepare the surface for epoxy adhesion. I plan on using low density after the initial sealing layers of epoxy to fair the keel as well. I dont want to many layers because the boat will be raced and the keel needs to be as thin as possible.  

fairing a sailboat keel

I had good luck using Interprotect 2000 on the iron keel of my previous boat. Good adhesion and easy to apply.  

fairing a sailboat keel

Why not sand blast it? Rent a blaster? Is the boat/keel where you could do it?  

fairing a sailboat keel

While sandblasting is a nice way to go, it's not always practical or feasible. If you can't blast, do as you are doing, grind with a low grit (16 or less) angle grinder, then use a wire brush or drill mounted brush to clean out any existing depressions caused by rust. Not familiar with the OSPHO stuff, but I used POR 15, probably similar. They are both nice in that they will react with any rust that does start to form, makes the timing much easier. Apply and sand. Repeat as necessary. After that just smooth out with any epoxy/filler combo you like. Apply and sand, repeat, repeat, etc. Some fillers sand easier than others, choose wisely. It will take a few go-rounds to get it all looking good. After that apply a few coats of unfilled epoxy, hand sand between coats, then final sand up to 600 grit. Then paint with whatever you're using on the rest of the bottom. It killed my knees crouching beneath the boat doing this. Wish I could have turned the boat upside down.  

Another vote for interprotect 2000. The poster who mentioned soap and water was referring to removing analine blush from the surface of fresh epoxy between coats.Not neccessary with Interprotect since one applies it over a semi-cured previous layer. Good suggestions from SloopjohnB, but I had good results without sandblasting.  

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fairing a sailboat keel

Superyacht sinks latest: Mother of crew survivor speaks out; CCTV captures yacht seconds before it sinks

The search for six people missing after a superyacht sank in a tornado off Sicily continues. Listen to a Daily podcast special as you scroll - as our correspondents and guests examine why the disaster happened.

Tuesday 20 August 2024 22:53, UK

  • Superyacht sinking
  • Search for survivors after superyacht disaster in 'critical 24 hours'
  • Six missing - including tech boss, Morgan Stanley executive and top lawyer
  • Crew survivor 'spared by grace of God' - as staff named
  • Captain speaks out for first time
  • Divers limited to 10 minutes underwater struggle to access cabins
  • Watch: CCTV captures yacht seconds before it sinks
  • Explained: What causes waterspouts? | Inside the superyacht
  • Listen to the Daily podcast above and tap here to follow wherever you get your podcasts

We're pausing our coverage for tonight but here is a recap of what we know:

  • Six people are still missing after the sinking of the Bayesian superyacht, with rescue teams searching off the Sicilian coast for survivors;
  • The Italian coastguard confirmed that the body found after the yacht sank yesterday is that of chef Recaldo Thomas;
  • The coastguard also named more survivors - Leah Randall, Katja Chicken and Leo Eppel;
  • An engineer who led the salvage operation for the wrecked cruise ship Costa Concordia said rescue divers have entered a "critical" 24 hours; 
  • The captain of Bayesian spoke for the first time, saying: "We didn't see it coming" in reference to the storm that sank the boat.

Images are emerging of emergency crews working near the site where the yacht sank in Porticello.

Search and rescue efforts by sea and air have so far delivered no results and experts have said we are in a "critical" 24 hours.

Bayesian was moored around half-a-mile off the coast of Porticello when it sank at around 5am local time yesterday.

A friend of Recaldo Thomas, the chef who was killed as the yacht sank, has described him as a "calm spirit" who had a "smile that lit up the room".

Gareth Williams, who grew up with Mr Thomas in Antigua, told the BBC : "I can talk for everyone that knew him when I say he was a well-loved, kind human being with a calm spirit.

"He would come over to mine over the weekend and he would sing. He had the deepest, most sultry voice in the world, and a smile that lit up the room.

"He told me just the other day that he needed to work two more seasons to fix up his late parents' house. He loved yachting, but he was tired."

Mr Thomas was also a Canadian citizen. The country's foreign ministry said it was "aware of reports that a Canadian citizen has died" and that consular officials were in contact with local authorities.

Mike Lynch "lost the last 12 years fighting a ridiculous case", his co-founder has told Sky News.

David Tabizel, who founded the software company Autonomy with Mr Lynch - the sale of which became the subject of the US fraud case - said he was a "legend" and that he had a "very soft spot for him".

"I'm just heartbroken for him and his family and I hope there's a miracle about to occur," he said.

Mr Tabizel said Mr Lynch's "resilience" and "importance to British economy cannot be overstated". 

"Now he has passed through this great trauma we were hoping he would lead a new national revolution to help Britain out of its current moribund state," he said.

"If anyone has the resilience to survive this - he does. And I hope he's found an air pocket."

Mr Tabizel added: "He has been one of the most influential, intelligent and most honourable human beings I have ever had the honour of knowing."

Mr Lynch sold Autonomy to US computing giant Hewlett-Packard for $11bn (£8.6bn).

He was accused of conspiracy and attempted fraud over the sale to HP and an intense, multiyear legal battle in the US ensued.

He was acquitted of multiple fraud charges in June after more than a year under house arrest.

CCTV footage showing the yacht moments before it sank has been released.

We reported on separate footage earlier, shot from a villa 200m away from the site of the disaster in Porticello.

The owner of the villa told outlet Giornale Di Sicilia the shots showed the boat sinking in 60 seconds: "You can clearly see what is happening. There was nothing that could be done for the vessel. It disappeared in a very short time."

Experts have said we're in a critical 24 hours in the search for survivors.

Earlier, Nick Sloane, who led the salvage operation for the wrecked cruise ship Costa Concordia, said survivors might be trapped in air pockets, but that time was running out to save them (see post at 12.50pm).

Now Dr Jean-Baptiste Souppez, senior lecturer in mechanical engineering at Aston University, has said the speed at which the vessel sank (a few minutes, according to accounts) and the fact that it remains intact "could favour the formation of small air pockets inside".

While the formation is "highly speculative", he says, there are records of survivors found in such pockets.

"A sign the rescuers may be looking for is a banging noise at regular intervals: this is common practice on submarines, and was one of the signs the search mission for the Titan submarine was looking for after it went missing last year," he says.

"But whether air pockets formed on the Bayesian is simply impossible to predict."

There is a "big question mark" over how the superyacht sunk, the editor-in-chief of BOAT International has told Sky News.

Stewart Campbell said "nothing like this had happened before" in his recollection.

"These boats are built extremely tough. They are built to take on the biggest seas the ocean can throw at them," he said.

"Big volume aluminium boats are very capable. So the fact that a boat like Bayesian can sink in a storm like this is incredibly surprising."

He said even if a ship like this was knocked down "it should be been able to right itself".

"Even if the boat had been dismasted, theoretically the boat should have been even more stable as it would have meant less weight and the keel would then have anchored the boat more firmly in the sea.

"There are lots of questions to be answered.

"At the moment from my point of view and from the people I have spoken to, including captains of similar boats, there is a big question mark over how this happened."

The action of the boat when it was struck by the storm "would have been incredibly violent" and "it should have woken everybody up".

"The crew would have sprung into action and tried to get everyone into life rafts if they thought the boat was in danger," he said.

"We just don't know what situation the boat was in when this storm struck."

The life raft on which survivors are understood to have escaped the sinking yacht has been pictured in the harbour at Porticello in Sicily. 

Earlier, Karsten Borner, the captain of a boat that came to their aide, described how he and his crew found the raft with 15 survivors inside and brought them to his ship until help arrived.

He described the situation as "awful and traumatic" for those involved - you can read his comments in full in our post at 10.55am.

Why did the yacht sink? What is happening with the investigation? Who is missing - and why are conspiracy theories already brewing?

Our correspondent Ashna Hurynag, who is at the scene in Sicily, and Danny Fortson, West Coast correspondent for The Sunday Times, who interviewed missing Mike Lynch only weeks ago, answer these questions on today's episode of the Daily podcast, with host Niall Paterson.

You can listen above - and  tap here  to follow wherever you get your podcasts.

 The mother of one of the survivors has said she is "beyond relieved" her daughter's life was spared.

Heidi Randall, the mother of crew member Leah Randall, told Sky News: "I'm beyond relieved that my daughter's life was spared by the grace of God. 

"It doesn't make it any easier living with the heartache of those who have lost their lives or are missing. 

"My very deepest condolences to the chef's family as they formed a great friendship."

Leah Randall, from South Africa, was photographed leaving the coastguard headquarters yesterday, alongside Katja Chicken, her fellow crew member.

The Italian coastguard has also confirmed the name of another crew member.

Leo Eppel was also working on the yacht, spokesman Vincenzo Zagarola said.

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fairing a sailboat keel

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A Waterspout Was Seen When a Luxury Yacht Sank. What Is It?

Witnesses reported seeing the tornado-like phenomenon hit the Bayesian, a sailing yacht that sank off the coast of Sicily on Monday.

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The Bayesian sailing yacht

By Eve Sampson

What caused the sinking on Monday of a sailing yacht carrying the British billionaire Mike Lynch and 21 other people off the coast of Sicily is still unknown. But some attention has focused on observations by witnesses, who described seeing a small tornado-like column known as a waterspout forming over the water during an abrupt and violent storm as the vessel sank.

Fifteen passengers on the 180-foot yacht, the Bayesian, escaped on a raft before being rescued by a neighboring cruise ship. The body of the ship’s cook was recovered on Monday and six people remain unaccounted for , including Mr. Lynch and his daughter Hannah, according to officials with Sicily’s civil protection agency.

Prosecutors in the nearby city of Termini Imerese have opened an inquiry into the cause of the sinking.

Here is what to know about waterspouts, a surprisingly common weather phenomenon that may have helped sink the luxury yacht.

What are waterspouts?

Waterspouts are columns of spinning air and moisture — similar to tornadoes over water, according to the National Weather Service .

While some form in fair weather, and are aptly called fair weather waterspouts, another more dangerous variety called tornadic waterspouts develops downward from a thunderstorm. These tornadic waterspouts can either form as regular tornadoes over land and move out to sea, or form in a storm already over a large body of water, according to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Association .

Fair weather waterspouts are weak, often dissipate quickly and do not cause major damage, according to the agencies, but tornadic waterspouts are more often associated with high winds, dangerous and frequent lightning, and hail. The Italian authorities recorded strong winds and intense lightning activity at the time the yacht went down.

How common are waterspouts?

Experts say waterspouts may be more common than tornadoes, but because oceans are so vast, they are more difficult to track — and as difficult to predict.

“The Mediterranean is possibly one of the places where waterspouts are most likely around the world due to the warm ocean surface and a climate that is very susceptible to thunderstorms throughout the summer and autumn,” according to a statement by Peter Inness, a meteorologist at the University of Reading in the United Kingdom.

Mr. Inness pointed to a 2022 study by scientists from University of Barcelona , which found that waterspouts occurred more frequently over warmer sea surfaces. The North Atlantic ocean has been unusually hot for over a year, repeatedly reaching record highs for the time of year , according to data from the oceanic association.

The International Centre for Waterspout Research on Monday said on X , the platform formerly known as Twitter, that it had confirmed 18 waterspouts near Italy in recent days, and several fishermen in the area of the accident told Italian media that they had witnessed a waterspout near the yacht.

What may have happened?

Karsten Börner, the captain of the nearby boat that rescued the 15 passengers, said in an interview that he saw the Bayesian about 490 feet away before the wind and lightning picked up.

While it was difficult to see what happened amid the storm, “my theory was that she was capsized first and then went down over the stern,” he said.

Towering over 237 feet tall, the Bayesian mast was one of the tallest aluminum masts in the world and it also had a special keel that could be raised or lowered, according to its manufacturer, Perini Navi. A keel is the downward-extending centerline underneath a boat that can help stabilize the vessel.

“In this case, having a tall aluminum mast would not make it the safest port to be in case of a storm,” said Andrea Ratti, associate professor of nautical design and architecture technology the Politecnico di Milano.

He added that “a lot of questions will remain until we have other elements at our disposal.”

Elisabetta Provoledo contributed reporting.

Eve Sampson is a reporter covering international news and a member of the 2024-25 Times Fellowship class, a program for journalists early in their careers. More about Eve Sampson

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What is a faired keel worth?

  • Thread starter markwbird
  • Start date Apr 24, 2019
  • Forums for All Owners

I opted not to take the time to fair my iron keel this time around due to life and stuff. I am considering making another go at it in the fall. The question is: what is it worth? Faster? Better pointing? I race my Hunter 34 in PHRF races against similar boats. I have read that a smooth, symmetrical keel provides as much improvement as a new racing jib. My keel is a bit rough. Not the worst but not as smooth as the hull or the rudder. So, compared to other improvements like racing sails or a folding prop where does a faired keel rank?  

JRacer

Faster, generally. Better pointing, likely. It's an incremental improvement that when added to the other go-fast incrementals add up to make a difference. And, faired doesn't mean just smooth. It means smooth and made to the proper symmetrical shape, i.e. not fat on one side and thin on the other or wavy from top to bottom. With the J24, we used class templates to make the size and shape correct (class legal) at specific points measured down from the hull and then faired between the measurement points. Not really a difficult job but time consuming. Good news is that we only had to do the job correctly once.  

Don S/V ILLusion

Don S/V ILLusion

No definitive answer but you can get a good idea of how ( not how much but how) it affects drag by quantifying the percentage of wetted area on the keel compared with hull and rudder. If it’s 10% for example, you have an approximation of how it might affect performance. The better question is what that effect might be. On drag? On lift?  

thinwater

Google aerodynamics and you can find many studies. It's not so much about drag as lift-to-drag at higher angles of attack and when it is loaded up. The difference between rough bottom paint and polished paint can be quite material. Don't forget the trailing edged. It needs to be cut off square (not rounded) and not to wide (1/4" is about right for cruising boats). Again, this might seem minor, but up wind it pay benefits in lift. This is even more important on the rudder. Lift up wind, and control off the wind in strong conditions. The difference in maximum lift (turning force available) between a rough rudder and tuned rudder can be as much as 40%, but typically 20%. Really, I've seen it. I think that is a big deal even for cruisers. Who couldn't use more control? It's up to you, but racing, it's a big deal. https://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/37_67/features/Fairing-the-Keels_12039-1.html  

NYSail

Sail your boat and be happy.  

And whatever you do, don’t spill the beer  

In terms of boat speed and all other things being equal a well faired and templated keel and rudder will help you win races. It is the "all other things being equal" that is the catch. The time spent fairing and templating the keel might be better spent with crew training, improving tacks, spinnaker sets and douses, and learning tactics. Dick Besse, a well respected sailor and I were talking about fairing the keel on my Tanzer 22, his comment was "lots of guys spend a lot of time fairing their keels and then then they lose an excuse about why they aren't winning." Dick was a skilled and enthusiastic sailor and was presented with the US Sailing W. Van Allen Clark Award in 1996. https://www.ussailing.org/competition/awards-trophies/w-van-alan-clark-jr-trophy/  

jon hansen

winners do it!  

jon hansen said: winners do it! Click to expand

all true, but in the real world a skilled skipper and crew will not show up with an average preparation to the vessel they are sailing. it takes all the ingredients to win. as far as the faired keel goes, very important for quality sailing. do you drive your car with bald tires? never tune the engine?  

The bigger question the OP is asking, is what can I do to improve my performance on the race course, where can I get the biggest bang for the buck. For most of us, improving skills will have a bigger bang than fairing a keel. Unless of course the keel looks like the dark side of the moon and cratered. If you are losing races by seconds not minutes, then a fairer keel will help, if you're at the back of the fleet then working on skills will yield better results than a fairer keel.  

Jackdaw

Might be more (or less) but Figure 3 seconds a mile. In a 3 mile race that’s nine seconds. Most people lose that in a bad start, a bad rounding, or a few bad tacks. So think like this, is this your next step, or is the time and money best first invested elsewhere?  

P.S. a folding prop is huge too, way huge!  

Jackdaw said: Might be more (or less) but Figure 3 seconds a mile. In a 3 mile race that’s nine seconds. Most people lose that in a bad start, a bad rounding, or a few bad tacks. So think like this, is this your next step, or is the time and money best first invested elsewhere? Click to expand

TomY

markwbird said: I have read that a smooth, symmetrical keel provides as much improvement as a new racing jib. Click to expand
jon hansen said: P.S. a folding prop is huge too, way huge! Click to expand

Gunni

Jackdaw said: Indeed, if you’re racing with a fixed prop you’re kind of wasting your time. You might get 6 seconds for it, but it’s costing you 30+ Click to expand

Great input. Thanks. The topic comes up because the boat is out of the water and getting a bottom job. I enjoy all the technical stuff and the science that goes into the sport. One interesting thing I came across is the practice of fairing the through hulls. This is to use filler to build up a tear-drop shape fairing around each through hull kind of like wheel pants on a sporty airplane. Anyone out there done this?  

gunni's observations are spot on. the reason is that the water next to the hull is moving with the hull from the friction of the hull. if the water is moving with the hull it will not be dragging on the prop. remember how nasty the old IOR boats were to drive in a big blow. the water was being dragged along with the hull and was not by the same volume passing by the foil that is trying to steer it.  

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IMAGES

  1. Sailboat Refit #18: fiberglassing and fairing the keel to hull joint. before bottom paint

    fairing a sailboat keel

  2. Keel separation or bad fairing?

    fairing a sailboat keel

  3. Yacht Fairing

    fairing a sailboat keel

  4. Keel separation or bad fairing?

    fairing a sailboat keel

  5. Cast iron keel

    fairing a sailboat keel

  6. Keel separation or bad fairing?

    fairing a sailboat keel

COMMENTS

  1. Fairing the Keel(s)

    The required length of the extended fairing was determined by placing straight edges on either side of the keel at several levels and measuring the distance from the current trailing edge to the intersection. Cores for each keel were cut to size, pre-ground to the proper taper, and tacked in position with a few dabs s of thickened, 10-minute epoxy.

  2. Refinish Your Swing Keel for Best Performance

    This post is the continuation of Refinish Your Swing Keel for Best Performance - Part 2: Cleaning.I will describe common keel defects, the fairing system I used, sealing a freshly sandblasted keel, applying body filler to build up an accurate hydrodynamic foil shape, and paying extra attention to the shape of the leading edge of the keel.

  3. Iron Keel prepping and fairing and painting

    Tanzer 29 Jeanneau Design Sandusky Bay, Lake Erie. Mar 30, 2019. #16. The original owners of my boat did the West System epoxy over the entire iron keel and faired in 2009. It has held up really well. I've repaired a couple of small spots in the past couple years. I used an angle grinder on the repairs. JerryA.

  4. keel fairing advice

    I'm with 4182 on this. You can't shave off that much weight, it will have more negative effect on the boat's performace than positive. When fairing the keel, the most important things to remember are 1) To make sure the keel is symmetrical and 2)The keel is perfectly smooth.

  5. Keel Fairing

    4381 posts · Joined 2000. #4 · Mar 18, 2008 (Edited) Absolutely the only way to go for keel fairing is West Systems epoxy products and fillers WEST SYSTEM Epoxy , 410 Microballons in your case. There is a lot of info on their site and you can order a relevant book or video from their Instructional/video page.

  6. Refinish Your Swing Keel for Best Performance

    This post is the continuation of Refinish your swing keel for best performance - Part 3: Fairing.I will describe: building a fiberglass reinforced guard on the leading edge, applying the final waterproofing coats of epoxy, bonding centering spacers on the upper end, priming with a barrier coat of epoxy paint, and applying ablative bottom paint last.

  7. Sailboat Refit #18: fiberglassing and fairing the keel to hull joint

    Sailboat Refit #18: In this video I repair the damaged keel to hull joint. Fiberglass and fair the keel before painting.

  8. Used Boat Buying: Keel Repair and Hull Fairing

    First on the list was to repair the bottom of the keel and smooth the underwater surfaces of the hull. The keel bottom was cracked and chipped and had the remains of a coral reef stuck to it. Unfortunately, it was also resting on two wood blocks, and the whole boat weighs over 10,000 lb.

  9. Fairing Iron Keel

    Jun 3, 2004. 123. - - Deale, Md. Jan 8, 2005. #1. I'm planning to fair, and fill the keel/hull joint, of the iron keel of my Hunter 28.5 this spring with a product called "POR Patch." I may also use the same maker's "POR 15" to seal the whole keel prior to bottom painting it.

  10. Refinish Your Swing Keel for Best Performance

    Fairing is the process of making the keel fair, meaning the right shape, smooth, and pretty. In the previous post, I described getting the keel off of the sailboat. With the keel out where I could easily work on it, there wasn't a lot of loose, flaking paint to scrape off like I expected. Most of it was pretty intact.

  11. Keels: Minor Maintenance and Repair

    The best way to treat an iron keel that's rusting is to sandblast the whole thing and apply a complete, new, epoxy-based coating system. ... many boat yards do not allow sandblasting. Even when this is permissable, a complete recoating job also means a complete re-fairing job, and that in turn means lots and lots and lots of slow, boring ...

  12. Fairing The Keel

    Fairing The Keel. When my 1977 24 was pulled last fall and set on the trailer I noticed a hairline crack at the hull/keel joint. The boat is slightly crooked on the trailer which seems to me may have put additional pressure on the keel. I don't know if the crack opened in the water or after it was set on the trailer. The keel was fair last spring.

  13. Keel separation or bad fairing?

    Apr 27, 2016. 14. Catalina 320 Anchorage Marina, Holland, MI. Dec 3, 2018. #13. The backing plates are the original/standard ones. I have a 1994 Catalina 320 (hull #32) that had the same issue upon purchase. My keel bolts/plates inside did not look as rusty, but I had bad keel separation especially at the aft end.

  14. Best keel fairing material

    The easiest is to clean out the keep seam of cracking or loose filler, sand and fair the bottom paint along the seam and apply a bead of caulking in the seam (3M 4200 or 101 is fine) and paint over.When you clean out the old filler, leave it open to drain as long as possible - several weeks if you can.

  15. keel fairing

    www.computerkeels.com. These people can provide you with a keel profile template for the Laser 28. Due to the planform of your keel you will need four templates of different lengths. Total cost 250 dollars or so. Look under the listings for 'Universal Templates'. Crag Cay, Jan 13, 2007. #7.

  16. Lead Keel prep advice

    Here is what I did this winter when i had some exposed lead after checking on keel-hull joint. Sand whole area down to fresh lead right before applying epoxy primer. Clean and degrease as normal. Apply first coat of epoxy primer to exposed lead and wet sand it into the lead with very rough sand paper ( I used 60 grit).

  17. filling and fairing cast iron keels

    On a typical fin keeled boat the keel still takes the boat's weight as the pad are "just" there to stop it falling over. In most cases the keel hardened by including antinomy. The iron keel on my last boat seemed particularly prone to rusting such that it needed the "grit blasting" at just three years old, current boat has a lead keel so saved ...

  18. keel fairing

    The first step is to remove the old fairing compound. Many boat manufacturers used automotive body filler, which is why you have a problem now. Body filler is easy to remove with a propane torch. Just heat it and scrape it off. The heat won't hurt the keel, but be careful above the lead. I would grind the filler off the keel stub.

  19. Keel fairing

    May 24, 2004. 470. Hunter 33.5 Portsmouth, RI. Jan 7, 2013. #2. We have a 1990 Hunter 33.5 (with an iron keel). We we bought it in the spring of 1999, there was some gap at parts of the joint of keel and hull. The yard sanded the area all around the joint (360 Degrees) scrapped out any joint compound near the outer surface and then did a "belly ...

  20. Waterspouts: Rare Phenomenon That Sank Luxury Yacht Off Sicily

    The search is on for missing passengers after a rare meteorological phenomenon known as a waterspout struck and sunk a luxury sailing yacht off the coast of Sicily on Monday. A number of people ...

  21. Did Bayesian superyacht's 237ft mast cause it to sink?

    Launched in 2008 by Perini Navi, Bayesian is one of the 50 largest sailing yachts in the world and her mammoth mast supported a total sail area of almost 32,000 sq ft.

  22. Why Bayesian super yacht sank, leaving 1 dead, 6 missing

    Schanck said another key question concerns the position of the keel, a heavy weight underneath the boat that acts as a counterbalance to keep it upright, when the ship sank. When lifted, "that's ...

  23. Cast Iron Keel Renovation

    For me, the next step was to build up a better foil shape of the keel using a fairing compound. After fairing the keel, I put on several more coats of epoxy barrier coat before painting with antifouling. I did all that in 2007. Since then, the boat has been in a slip except for trailering to other sailing grounds, and hauling out for repainting ...

  24. Superyacht sinks latest: Crew survivor 'spared by grace of God'; CCTV

    "Even if the boat had been dismasted, theoretically the boat should have been even more stable as it would have meant less weight and the keel would then have anchored the boat more firmly in the sea.

  25. Fairing out the trailing edge of the keel.

    C&C 110 Bay Shore, Long Island, NY. Jul 25, 2009. #4. Trailing edge The trailing edge of the keel and rudder should be squared off. Depending on your foil shape, it will probably be between 1/4" and 1/8" wide. Definitely do not shape it come to a point or round it. Square end with sharp corners is what you want.

  26. Captain of Bayesian rescue boat describes 'disaster'

    The captain of a boat that rescued 15 people after after a luxury yacht sank off the coast of Sicily has described the incident as "a big disaster". One person on board the vessel is confirmed to ...

  27. Waterspout Was Seen When the Bayesian Yacht Sank in Sicily. What Is It

    A keel is the downward-extending centerline underneath a boat that can help stabilize the vessel. "In this case, having a tall aluminum mast would not make it the safest port to be in case of a ...

  28. Cracked Keel Fairing. Is this a major concern?

    We suspected that iron keel had transferred the energy of stiking a hard object to the hull, leaving the keel looking fine, but the hull cracked and weakened. A lead keel would have evidence of an impact that the surveyer would notice. Anyway, $2400 later, the hull and keel fairing were better than new.

  29. What is a faired keel worth?

    In terms of boat speed and all other things being equal a well faired and templated keel and rudder will help you win races. It is the "all other things being equal" that is the catch. The time spent fairing and templating the keel might be better spent with crew training, improving tacks, spinnaker sets and douses, and learning tactics.