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13 Best Boat Shoes for Summery Style on Land or Sea

Boat shoes get a bad rap. We can fix that.

Here's the thing about boat shoes , though: They are damn stylish. In canvas or leather , the nautical-inspired kicks are an elevated alternative to flip-flops , a more approachable version of loafers , and a cooler, better (most of the time) option than sneakers . It all comes down to which boat shoes you wear, and how you wear them. Lucky for you, we've gathered 13 infallible options below.

best iconic boat shoes

Sperry authentic original 2-eye boat shoes.

best elevated boat shoes

Mango split leather nautical shoes.

best comfortable boat shoes

Allbirds tree skippers.

Take the classic Sperrys , for example. What's not to love? They're comfortable and chic and pair wonderfully with a summer barbecue. Or, if you're actually getting on a boat, go for Dockers—they're water resistant, so you can splish and splash as you please. If you want to emulate the air of wealth that boat shoes seem to inherently have, reach for Loro Piana's suede option—but do not get those wet. There's a style below for everyone. Long live Boat Shoe Summer.

When I think of boat shoes, these are the very first pair that comes to mind. I mean, they're classics. Sperry's iconic two-eye design is an easy, stylish way to encapsulate summer elegance, whether or not you're actually on a boat.

Mango does boat shoes as it does all things—with real European style. These are minimalist yet tasteful, with a leather upper and backstitched details. Pair with denim, white pants, or khakis for a classy look.

These are a boat shoe/sneaker hybrid, but we're counting them, because the comfort and cushion provided by Allbirds is so worth it. If you're planning on doing a lot of walking this summer—say, on vacation while playing tourist—this is the chic, comfy shoe you need to have in your rotation.

Dockers Beacon Boat Shoes

For an affordable boat shoe that's as durable as it is comfortable, go for Dockers. This hard-wearing style emulates the classic, timeless design, and when you have these on your feet, you'll love the water- and stain-repellent coating that allows you to roam freely.

Todd Snyder x Sperry Top-Sider Suede Boat Shoes

What could be chicer for summer than a Todd Snyder and Sperry collab? This boat shoe exudes everything a boat shoe should: refined style, a bit of preppiness, and infallible coolness. With cork insoles for all-day comfort and a suede upper that looks as good as it feels.

OluKai Moku Pae Boat Shoes

With a breathable mesh upper and grippy wet soles, this is a boat shoe you can—and should—actually wear on a boat. And, for that matter, anywhere else you go this summer.

Loro Piana Sea-Sail Walk Suede Boat Shoes

If you want to invest in a truly luxurious boat shoe, well, there's no higher luxury than Loro Piana. This style is crafted with a suede upper and a durable rubber sole, with an apron toe that looks good on or off the docks.

J.Crew x Rancourt & Co. Read Boat Shoes

It doesn't get much cooler than these classic boat shoes. Dress them up, dress them down, wear them on land or at sea—point is, you're going to get a lot of use out of 'em.

Sebago Endeavor Boat Shoes

If you've tried Sebago's shoes before, you know the brand is unparalleled when it comes to comfort and style. These boat shoes are cut from the same cloth—they're endlessly cushiony, timelessly cool, and under 200 bucks.

L.L. Bean Casco Bay Boat Mocs

For only $100, L.L. Bean has a timeless, versatile pair of boat shoes. Pair them with anything from a linen button-down to a cotton polo, and be merrily on your way to wherever the season takes you.

Timberland Classic 2-Eye Boat Shoes

If you love your Timberland boots (who doesn't?), you'll definitely love your Timberland boat shoes. These pack the same durable, comfortable construction that the brand's boots are known for, with some serious style points, too.

Polo Ralph Lauren Merton Leather Boat Shoes

PRL does all things with class, preppiness, and grace, and these boat shoes are no different. With white contrast stitching at the toe and a two-eye design, this is what timelessness is all about.

Mr P. Caspian Suede Boat Shoes

And for something with a modern flair, Mr P. has you covered. On a chunky platform sole, these suede boat shoes are a summer statement piece that adds some flair to your dressed-up looks and some refinement to your streetwear fits.

Why You Can Trust Esquire

We won't say something is great unless it’s actually great. Our fashion and e-commerce teams carefully choose every product in Esquire’s roundups.

Every pick on this list—and all our other lists—has been selected through testing and trying it ourselves. We won't tell you to buy something that we wouldn't spend our own money on. We're telling you to buy things we know you'd love, because of how much we love 'em, too.

No two tastes are the same, because no two men are the same. Your proverbial mileage may vary. But if you’re looking for the right place to start, with advice from folks who care (possibly too much!) about this sort of stuff, this is the place to be.

Other Options We Love

There are plenty of great boat shoes out there—the 13 we listed above just so happen to be the best of the best. But if those still aren't doing it for you, we have a few more selects you might like.

• If you're a details guy, Frescobol Carioca has a tasseled style we can't get enough of.
• Or maybe you prefer a rugged, pre-worn, vintage look. If that's the case, here's a handsome leather boat shoe you'll love.
• If you want something clean, classic, and sophisticated, check out Rodd & Gunn's burnished leather style .

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CREATING AN ALUMINIUM SAILBOAT FOR BLUEWATER CRUISING

"I have always been fascinated about the idea of sailboat traveling on the ocean energy self-sufficient like the satellite rounding the earth. Producing its own energy by the power of wind, sea and sun.

The Li Yachts project started with my own desire of the boat that will be used in dive expeditions with aim to reach even the remotest locations – and I wanted to do that with freedom of fossil fuels."

Voyage started from my hand drawn sketches. Here drawing the 47 ft centreboarder.

We have designed a 40 ft centreboard pilothouse sailboat made of aluminium and the 33 ft version is in initial sketch stage. My search for the perfect cruising boat lead me to start the design project and a company called Li Yachts in 2015 in Finland. The name was borrowed from my old aluminium yacht and now refers to low impact because of sustainability goals.

The basis for the project was a life-time passion for the sea. Contributing personal factors included my long sailing experience in Nordic waters and the technical and artisan education I had completed earlier. Also my desire to realise long research expeditions on the world’s oceans in the future was part of my personal background.

The strongest motivational factor was the fact that I was not satisfied with the properties of most modern yachts. Based on the above, the need for a totally new sailing boat concept crystallised

Late autumn gale approaches, I'm dreaming of keeping watch from warmth of the pilothouse.

My goal in the Li Yachts project is to create a modern sailboat made of aluminium, the simple and strong tool for bluewater cruising. The main design elements will include safety, practicality and sustainability The new design concept covers production, use and maintenance. Zero pollution and high level of recycling of materials are some of the specific goals. Please read more about the background in The Blog  page.

At a very concrete level, I have understood what changes in design will be needed for the boat of the future when I have been owning, sailing and re-building an old aluminium sailboat called Li built in 1967 , since 2011.

During the years with my current aluminium yacht, I have kept notes on the observations as regards the design elements which could be improved. In many cases they would actually need to be drastically redefined in order to satisfy my dreams as to the perfect expedition sailboat. For more information of these details, kindly see  The Concept  page.

Familiar snowy views while winter sailing at 60°N has given lessons on how well an aluminium sailboat intended for high latitude sailing should be insulated.

I believe I am not alone with my thoughts. I think most experienced sailors would share my ideas. I believe many of them have actually realised there is a need for some basic changes in the design as regards our future yachts.

As the resources of the world are becoming more and more scarce, we need to take this into consideration, in addition to considering the improvements needed in other operational details of a sailing boat.

Please contact me in case you need more information or want to share design or production ideas. At the moment we are working hard to be able to build the 40 ft prototype. The goal is to produce a small serie, which would give reasonable priced opportunities for the first interested sailors.  I hope that a new advanced and sustainable aluminium sailboat will soon sail the seas and oceans of the world.

Fair winds,

Simo Nyrönen

Founder of Li Yachts

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• Safety & Seamanship

Making the Most of Centerboards

Understanding how centers of effort shift can help make you a better sailor and reduce loads..

A deep, ballasted keel does a lot of good things. It lowers the center of gravity, provides lift to windward, and stabilizes the boat. It can add great strength if integrated into the construction of the hull, allowing the boat to sniff soft bottoms without damage.

There are downsides. Trailering is impractical. Countless shallow creeks and snug harbors become inaccessible. Docking is more expensive.

A centerboard is one solution, but there are differences. You probably read something about raising and lowering the centerboard or daggerboard in a book on dinghy sailing years ago, and unless you’ve been racing centerboard boats all these years, you’ve probably forgotten the details. Here’s a little refresher.

Even for the cruising sailor, centerboard position is as vital an adjustment, as sail balance and trim.

Balance. On a poorly trimmed boat, one of the largest sources of drag is often excessive rudder angle. Assuming you have the typical rudder profile (NACA 0021), the optimal helm range is generally 2-4 degrees when close hauled. A few degrees helps it share the work of the keel, providing lift to windward. More rudder angle and you are increasing drag, and if the angle exceeds 6 degrees, you are courting a stall when a strong turn to leeward is needed.

What causes excessive load on the rudder?

• Too much sail area aft. Sailing with main-only or a partially rolled-up genoa can do this.
• Over-trimmed mainsail.
• Excessive mast rake. Check the manual. Beach cats and planing skiffs have very specific reasons for radical mast rake. It only translates into more speed or better handling if the boat was designed for it.
• Excessive heel or bow-down trim. The hull form itself can force a turn to windward. A deeply buried bow can act like a forward rudder.

Centerboard trim

There are ways to fix these tendencies. Ease the main or lower the traveler. Reef the main and the headsail in balance. When sailing off the wind, it is often better to reef the main before the jib, to help keep her head down. Rake the mast to spec. Sail the boat flat. Bear away in the puffs when sailing deep, before the boat begins to heel excessively. Always steer for balance.

However, a centerboard or daggerboard adds an additional trim tool that is often forgotten. When the centerboard first begins to swing up, it moves more aft than up. In fact, a centerboard that is half up has typically lost only 20 percent of its draft and 15 percent of its projected area. On the other hand, the center of lateral resistance (CLR) on a 4-foot centerboard has moved aft about 1½ feet.

What about the change in righting moment of a weighted board? You have lifted it no more than 15 percent of the distance to the waterline, and depending on the board’s maximum depth, you’ve probably lost no more than 10 percent of the board’s contribution to righting moment. Don’t lift a weighted board more than this under sail, but experiment with how a slight movement aft changes things. Always mark the pendant so you know how far you have lifted the board.

Rising windspeeds

Consider the case of our Corsair F-24 test boat. As the wind rises, we might furl the jib for easier sailing. Reefing the main gives better balance, but rolling up the jib is easy and eliminates handling a whole set of sheets. Unfortunately, the sail center of effort (COE) then moves aft three feet, badly overloading the rudder.

In this situation, sailing becomes sluggish and we get trapped in irons every single time we try to tack. And there is no escape from irons, because even when we back the boat out as far as possible by reversing the rudder and fully easing the main sail—as deep as a beam reach—the moment we attempt to sheet in to make way, the bow swings right back into the wind.

However, if we lift the centerboard halfway, the center of lateral resistance moves aft about 1½-feet with very little change in area. We have less sail up, so the loss in area does not significantly increase leeway. The rudder will still be slightly overloaded and successful tacking requires easing the mainsheet as the boat comes through the wind, but you won’t be trapped in irons and the boat  accelerates well as the main is slowly brought in. The rudder angle remains a little higher than normal, but it isn’t a brake.

Reaching in Strong winds

Strong reaching conditions are another time when centerboard adjustments help. When the wind gusts, the boat heels, and the resulting submerged hull form wants to turn to windward. In the case of a multihull, the lee bow digs in, acting as a forward rudder. The helmsman tries to bear off, but the rudder stalls and the boat swerves to windward anyway. Apparent wind accelerates, flow over the sails becomes better attached (reaching sails are often partially stalled, so rounding up attaches the flow), apparent wind increases, and power increases dramatically, just when you don’t want it. Centrifugal force from the rapid turn adds to the mess. A monohull will broach. A multihull can capsize.

The solution? First there are the standard solutions. Reef the mainsail early and fly more headsail; this will help keep her head down. Bear off early and smoothly before the boat heels excessively rather than waiting until the need is urgent. The earlier correction is actually faster, because the rudder angle relative to the water stays low, keeping drag low.

But also consider lifting the centerboard halfway or a bit more. Because there is little side force from the sails when reaching deep, you don’t need as much area. The boat will probably be moving faster through the water relative to the side force, generating more lift with less area. But don’t lift it all the way up unless the boat has a stub keel; you still want some board down as a leverage point for steering. The goal is to move the center of effort aft, so that the boat doesn’t want to round up.

You cannot adjust a board under load. If you apply enough force, you will only break something or hurt your back. Even if there are slides and a sturdy tackle, only adjust the board when traveling straight upwind or downwind, slowly if possible. This will reduce the load. Sometimes shooting straight into the wind for just a few moments is enough; quickly make the adjustment and then return to your original course.

Centerboard adjustments are not just for racers. It is a cruiser adjustment, just like reefing, for those who value good handling and safety. It’s all about balance, and by swinging the board aft just a little bit, you can cure certain handling problems.

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The 41 ft centreboard shown below has been sold:, 41 ft centreboard.

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Preleminary Information: Spacious, shallow draft, "Aletis" combines her nice lines, her lifting (1,15/2,50 m) keel and ketch sailplan with decksaloon, providing lots of cruising possibilities. This is a change for the yachtsman who can restart a project to fullfill his dream.

General - 41 FT CENTREBOARD

Aluminium sailingyacht 41 FT Centreboard Ketch "Aletis", built in 1993 and launched in 2000, dim.: 12.60 x (lwl 10.40) x 3.95 x 1.15/2.50, casco built by Almaz in St. Petersburg, designed by Stolk & Jansen, aluminium superstructure, deck and hull, Marix/Gebo hardened glass windows in aluminium framing, round-bilged hull, electric hydraulic centreboard keel, diplacement approx. 13.8 tons, fuel capacity approx. 1 x 250 ltrs in a aluminium tank, water capacity approx. 1 x 500 ltrs in an aluminium tank, sump capacity approx. 1 x 80 ltrs in a stainless steel tank, hydraulic wheel steering inside and mechanical wheelsteering inside, steering with two rudder-blades.

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Classic mahogany interior with white ceilings, 2 cabins, saloon and decksaloon, 4 fixed berths and 2 extra berths in the saloon, tip-up saloon table, headway approx. 1.85/1.90 m, 1 x manual toilet, 1 x shower (needs connection), Wallas 3000D diesel heating, electric hydrofoor waterpressure system, Isotherm 40 ltrs boyler on the motor and 220V, 3-burner half cardanic stove with oven, gasdetector (electric valve on the gasbottle), Isotherm 12V refrigerator with deepfreeze compartment.

Perkins Prima M60 engine, 60 hp (44,1 kW), installed 1998 and used from 2000, approx. 839 enginehours, indirect coolingsystem, double seaweedfilter, hydraulic PRM gearbox, stainless steel shaft, Volvo stuffing box, 3-bladed fixed propeller, 1 x manual and 2 x electric bilgepumps, 12/220V electric circuit (bowthruster and windlass on 24V), 2 x Sonneschein 200 Ah service batteries and 1 x Optima starting and 1 x Optima bowtrusther battery, shorepower, Combi intvertor charger Trace 1200 W with soft start, Rheinstrom bowthruster.

2 x Flexgate electric fluid compass, Dataline echosounder, log and windset (windset is not installed), Skanti, DSC and Atis VHF, Robertson APX 300 autopilot, MLR (FX-312) build in GPS, radio/cd-player.

2 x lifebuoys, 24V electric windlass, Ploegschaar anchor with 50 m chain, bathingladder, bowladder, cockpittable, deckwashinstallation, 3 x wipers (2 needs connection), 7 x fenders, lines, spareparts, clock, barometer, hygrometer, 2 x powder fire extinguishers.

Ketch-rigged (masts are not included), sailplan and quotation for the masts are available, Allpa 2-speed winches: sheet winches 2 x 59, halyard winches 2 x 45 and 1 x 30 and reefing winches 2 x 30, Antal blocks, genoatrack etc.

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With a remarkable 2.3m/7’6” draft reduction from 3.50m/11’6”, access secluded shallow anchorages, more marinas and have the opportunity to shelter in river inlets at a moment’s notice.

The Oyster 885CB sailboat boasts expansive luxurious living spaces, ideal for entertaining family and friends. On deck, there is a choice of generous entertaining areas for all occasions. Below deck, her standard layout offers a large saloon, four luxury double en-suite cabins, with separate crew quarters for complete privacy.

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Heralding a new generation of Oysters, this 60 foot bluewater cruiser is a sailing yacht for all oceans. Practical and well-provisioned for long distance sailing or cruising in coastal waters.

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A versatile sub-70 foot sailboat offering the perfect balance of size and practicality. She can be sailed shorthanded effortlessly or take a full crew and up to eight friends and family.

This long range 75 foot cruising yacht is designed for very big adventures. A joy to sail yourself, she also boasts dedicated crew quarters.

An exhilarating 90 foot sailing yacht, delivering comfort and safety with uncompromising performance. She is capable of taking you anywhere in the world effortlessly, in luxury and style.

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Best Centerboard Designed Boats

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I see a lot of people discussing centerboarders which I have always been very sttracted to due to their capability to go gunkholing but still be able to drop the board down and really increase stability and windward ability. But I have no experience with these boats. I have never owned one or sailed on one. Here are my questions 1) How are the centerboards raised and lowered? Is it hard to do? Do they all swing down on a pivot or do some slide down (like a daggerboard)? 2) Are there different designs? What is there to look out for ? What is the maintanence? Will they last the life of the boat? Are they troublesome? 3) Can I sail with the centerboard partially down if I want? 4) What are the best designed Centerboard boats out there? Which ones are the boats that are to be avoided? Why don''t we see more boats manufactured with swing centerboards?...It seems like the ideal configuration for cruisers that like "thin water" anchorages. 5) Any other comments?...Pro''s Con''s  

To answer your questions: 1) How are the centerboards raised and lowered? Is it hard to do? Do they all swing down on a pivot or do some slide down (like a daggerboard)? Most centerboards either have a small winch that tensions a cable that raises the centerboard. These winches vary from trailer type cable winches (electric and manual) to normal sheet winches in which case there is often a block and tackle on the end of the centerboard penant. The centerboard cable either acts through a tube that is sealed at the bottom and or deck or through a variety of pull rod designs that pass through a packing gland. Centerboards are usually not too hard to operate but drop keels because of their weight take a fair amount of cranking to pull up and down. Most cruising centerboard boats have pivoting centerboards (just weighted enough to cause them to be heavier than water) or Swing Keels (which pivot and are weighted significantly enought to help act as part of the boat''s ballast.) There are daggerboard boats out there but those are mostly small boats. There is a current trend in small race boats to have a dagger board with a bulb on the end. These are very efficient sailing wise but are much more difficult to raise and lower and really cannot be partially raised lowered under sail. 2) Are there different designs? What is there to look out for ? What is the maintanence? Will they last the life of the boat? Are they troublesome? They vary very widely in design, quality and execution from crudely cast iron swing keels, or a rough cut steel plate, to nicely fabricated lead keels, to nicely fabricated fiberglass foils, to crudely fabricated glass over plywood. In my mind, The best cruising boat set up is a keel/centerboard where these is a small shoal draft keel that the centerboard emerges from the bottom of. When fully retracted the centerboard is wholely cased in the trunk and is not exposed below the bottom of the short keel. This design gives up a little performance but offers the most protection for the centerboard and represents a good compromise in performance. If performance is your thing than a daggerboard with a bulb is a better option. (I am thinking of building a small daysailor overnighter to putter about with and will probably do that kind of a CB.) There is more maintenance. The centerboard penants, winches and packing glands need maintenance. The pivot bushings and penant attachment points need regular maintenance and at some point replacement. There are often flaps across the centerboard slot that need periodic replacement. Centerboard often have minor damage to their fairing materials and barrier coats as the seem to be used as a depth sounder more often and there is some wear of centerboard against the side of the trunk. Even painting the Centerboard is a little harder because the boat needs to be high enough to let the whole board down. Whether they last the life of the boat depends on maintenance and how the original board was constructed. 3) Can I sail with the centerboard partially down if I want? Most boats can be sailed with the board partially down. One nice thing about a centerboard is that it can be partially raised or lowered, i.e. shifted in position to balance the helm in heavy air or even raised some to allow more leeway in heavy air reducing heeling. For most keel centerboarders the best performance is with the keel down for beating and close to beam reaching, partially raised when broad reaching and all the way up on a run. 4) What are the best designed Centerboard boats out there? Which ones are the boats that are to be avoided? Why don''t we see more boats manufactured with swing centerboards?...It seems like the ideal configuration for cruisers that like "thin water" anchorages. I don''t have time to do a good and bad list this morning but keel/centerboard boats are more expenive to build than their fixed keel sisters, expecially in sizes over about 25 feet.They require more ballast and more hardware to work well. Most people seem to be willing to accept a wing or bulb keel. 5) Any other comments?...Pro''s Con''s Keel centerboards give up a fair amount of performance over a well designed fin keel but if well designed generally offer better performance than other forms of shoal draft keels including wing and bulbs. They are harder to build properly and harder to maintain, but offer a lot of advantages to a cruiser. Jeff  

I own a 28ft Soverel(1965), it has a long shoal draft keel in which a centerboard swings out.It uses a gear to crank it up and down. This is a straight shot to the centerboard trunk through a stainless tube (this mounts from cb trunk to below cockpit floor above waterline).It is not super easy or fast to raise. The cable should be checked or replaced every few years I would guess. My centerboard is lead incased in fiberglass. I know this because the cb was left all the way down at dock(it should never be that far down)and the boat sat on it at low very low tide and bent it in half, the repair was not easy! Anyway I love my boat I can steer the boat with cb adjustments, all but down wind. It is nice to singlehand I can make sail changes or go below without having to hand steer. These are the good point of this boat I have no clue about others boats. Paul B  

I think the keel/centerboard designed, as mentioned above, is the best CB configuration. This design is used by Hinckley, Bristol, Little Harbor, Cheoy Lee (Pedrick 41) and Alden to name just a few builders. Many K/CB boats can be sailed equally as well with the board up as down, on almost all points of sail. Downwind there is the advantage of having the boat up, upwind, having the board down can be a significant advantage. I would say (since I just got one) that the most beautiful and well designed K/CB boat of all time is the Hood 38 built by Wauquiez. Sisterships were built by Bristol (38.8) and Little Harbor (Ted Hood''s company). She is a delight to sail, very well thought out, well built and nicely finished. I could not be happier. Thus, I will recommend to you Ted Hood''s K/CB designs. Perhaps one of the most significant advantages, aside from the obvious ability to sail into skinny water, is the wonderful tracking ability of these boats. This is not to be taken lightly if you plan to do some distance cruising. I can take my hands off the helm for long periods of time, not even bother to lock it in, and have the boat track on any point of sail. To me, with a K/CB, you have all the advantages of a full keel boat and a fin keel boat with none of the disadvantages of either. Maintenance is really very minimal and does not occur on even an annual basis. Just keep inspecting the cable when the boat is pulled. As to the placement of the winch for the cable, there are several different designs. Some use lines to the cockpit, some have a winch with cable in or just out of the cockpit. I hope this helps.  

Regarding the stability question in the original post, as Jeff says most boards are only slightly heavier than water, and so do not significantly lower the center of gravity when in the lowered position. There is a school of thought which says that a centerboarder is more stable with the board raised in heavy weather; as Jeff mentioned this allows more leeway. In theory this reduces the chance of the boat "tripping" over her keel. I personally am a great fan of centerboarders. Partially raising a front pivoted board moves the center of lateral resistance aft, thereby reducing weather helm, and is very useful in balancing a boat.  

Regarding the question on the weight of the CB. I believe the CB on the Hood 38 is 800 lbs. A friend with a Cheoy Lee Pedrick 41 told me his CB was also very heavy. Hope this helps  

I''ve had a C&C 40 for 21 years. She is now for sale and is a keel centerboard. The board weighs about 700# and is pulled with a winch and a five part tackle connected to a cable, which pulls the board. We seldom use the board, unless we are trying to make a point and avoid two tacks. With the board down, she will really put her nose into the wind. With the board down she draws 8''6" and up 4''8", so she goes where the seven foot keels can''t. Are you interested in a boat?  

Doublee44, Well I''m not in the market to purchase a boat right now, but I am doing "Mental Research" on what Features/Types of boats I would be looking to get as my "next boat". If I was to get a next boat I would be looking for one to cruise extensively down to the "Islands" (carribean, Central/South America et.al.) And I am known to be a crusing type sailor that loves to gunkhole. I have a newer Catalina 36MKII with a wing keel that I love dearly. I think it is an awesome boat for extensive coastal cruising with periodic juants offshore. No boat is perfect for all situations and though it would be a fine boat for what I described above, I feel there are a few features that I would like to have that would make it even "more ideal" (everything is relative.....and so are the costs). I am slightly enamored on a keel/centerboard design as it give the best compromise in what I like to do. I am not "super" concerned on the extra bit of maintenance needed for the centerboard, just as long as the design was a "decent" one. Thus the questions on how some are raised and lowered....(Though, I''m still not sure which is the "best" design). So on my "next boat" I might be looking for a keel/Centerboard configuration if it was well designed and less likely to keep me hanging (Pun intended). And I am starting to become interested in possibly a fractional rig as per some of the reasons Dave_H has mentioned (if done properly easier to depower main and smaller headsail to deal with.....yes I am listening Dave) But I am still not overlooking Masthead Rigs for their sturdiness and simplicity and if done correctly (Right sized sails, lines to cockpit, etc, etc) they can be able to be singlehanded well by a competent skipper...... I think the C&C is a nice boat. Is it listed somewhere on the net?, just for a quick look...;-)  

Ahoy Jeff_H, To your point of "small race boats with daggerboards with bulb attached", do you know how this type fares in a grounding? Art (I''m assuming a boat such as a Melges 24, Ultimate 20,etc.)  

Properly designed and all other things being equal a daggerboard with a bulb should do as well or better than fin keeler. The only example that I know of was a Melges 24 that took to the ground at speeds thought to be in excess of 8 knots. The description that I heard was that she hit hard and with the large chute up, spun and took a hard down which carried her over the hump. Damage was described as cosmetic. I don''t think that is a representative fair sampling of the concept. I suspect that depending on the design of the boat and the nature of the grounding there could easily be more extensive damage to the drop keel or its scabboard. Modern daggerboards with bulbs are next to non-existent in larger production boats but they are a concept that I would love to see more often. It is comparatively easy to design a structure that could absorb the engery of a major impact. It might include a large rubber impact block that could take buffer most of the force of impact rather than deliver the loads into a rigid structure. Longer than usual leverage into the boat perhaps with SS tubes sliding an a SS scabboard could also reduce the loads felt by the boat. I had designed a quick release lock down system that would permit the keel to be released under pressure allowing it to be retracted when aground but which would automatically engage if the boat took a knockdown, locking the keel so that it can''t retract due to gravity. If I were wealthy enough to build a custom boat (which is not likely in this lifetime) a lifting dagger board with a bulb would be high on my list. Jeff  

Jeff_H said: Properly designed and all other things being equal a daggerboard with a bulb should do as well or better than fin keeler. The only example that I know of was a Melges 24 that took to the ground at speeds thought to be in excess of 8 knots. The description that I heard was that she hit hard and with the large chute up, spun and took a hard down which carried her over the hump. Damage was described as cosmetic. I don''t think that is a representative fair sampling of the concept. I suspect that depending on the design of the boat and the nature of the grounding there could easily be more extensive damage to the drop keel or its scabboard. Modern daggerboards with bulbs are next to non-existent in larger production boats but they are a concept that I would love to see more often. It is comparatively easy to design a structure that could absorb the engery of a major impact. It might include a large rubber impact block that could take buffer most of the force of impact rather than deliver the loads into a rigid structure. Longer than usual leverage into the boat perhaps with SS tubes sliding an a SS scabboard could also reduce the loads felt by the boat. I had designed a quick release lock down system that would permit the keel to be released under pressure allowing it to be retracted when aground but which would automatically engage if the boat took a knockdown, locking the keel so that it can''t retract due to gravity. If I were wealthy enough to build a custom boat (which is not likely in this lifetime) a lifting dagger board with a bulb would be high on my list. Jeff Click to expand...

I own a Soverel 36R built in 1967. It has a full keel with the centerboard stowed in the keel. The board on these are solid brass. I read somwhere that it was thousands of pounds of brass and I don't doubt it as it's HUGE in all dimension. I don't believe there are going to be many boats built today like this. She sails like a dream. My draft with the brass up is 4.25' and down 9'. And 9 feet of thousands of pounds of brass hanging under my boat makes me feel real comfortable in rough weather. Sometimes it feels like she can sail straight into the wind with the brass down. Brass up she can take me into shallow water where many 26' boats have trouble. I will admit that I'd love to throw a power winch on her as that much weight obviously takes a serious arm to raise. And sorry, but the plan is for her never to be for sale again. If you look around for a Soverel, keep in mind that Bill Soverel ( the dad ) designed and built ocean cruisers through the late 60's. The son, Mark designed and built them from the 70's on as racers. Not that there's anything wrong with Mark's boats. He also built them well and from what I read his Soverel 33 owned the races for many years and sometimes still do.  

Must be Viva sailing Yachts (Sasanka) from Poland. Off course I`m owner of a VIVA 600. Very suitable for Swedish Lakes and Channels.  

Very cool. Never heard of the Viva 600 before, so I looked it up. 19' boat with an enclosed head. Awesome.  

Currently my favorite centerboard design is Boreal. They start in the 40’s and go into the 60’s. As regards daggerboards AKA lifting keels the B50 is nice but the K&M besteavers in the mid 50s comes close to my idea of an ideal cruising boat. For older boats thought the Ted Hood centerboarders were cooler than dirt. Was surprised how well they pointed. Sailed a B40multiple times in the Marion Bermuda. Hated listening to the board slap in light air and she was wet in a seaway. More than once have seen debris get into the slot and jam it. On one occasion it was gravel and the boat needed to hauled to clear it. Hydraulics maybe better than a pendant/winch set up depending on design when dealing with bigger centerboards Changing out a pendant can be real hard. Just my thoughts. If you go with a lifting keel play attention to how it will handle a grounding. There are some very ingenious ways that have been thought out to handle this mishap.  

We have a board on here. We draw 6 and change with it up and 10 and change with it down. I was told by the PO that he had added about 2500# to the board, but I have no way of confirming this until we pull it out. With 6' of draft, our board isn't so much about leeway as it is trim and comfort. It definitely stabilizes the boat (underway or at anchor, by the way) which helps the boat sail better. Alternating the depth of the board (visualize an upside down shark fin) moves the center of lateral resistance a bit forward or aft. Off the wind it is also a stabilizing factor and a deeper point around which to turn the boat. There are two major drawbacks to centerboards, IMO. One is that at a certain point down, they will begin to move about in the trunk and make noise. Maybe that's less of a problem on other boats, but this one slips through the water so silently that sometimes the noise from the board can be a little bit bothersome. Solution: pull it up a few cranks. The other much more serious problem that can develop with a board is the trunk leaking. I don't care if it is a day sailor or a 50' ocean going cruiser; this is a serious problem. In some cases it can be prohibitively expensive to repair and on those boats you will find the trunk sealed up and the board decommissioned.  

Think technique and potential troubles vary widely depending on if your talking about a Daggerboard ( no real ballast component) lifting keel (major ballast component commonly in a bulb) Keel centerboard ( no trunk intruding in to accommodations or even bilge to a significant degree) Centerboard Also impact on how the boat handles varies. Most of the daggerboards I’m familiar with have been on multis. Can anyone comment on daggerboards in ocean going vessels?  

My Clearwater 35 is a swing keel boat. It has lead enclosed within the leading edge of an elliptical fiberglass foil keel that weighs about 3000#. The keel retracts completely into the hull, allowing the hull to sit on the bottom (with the swing rudder up.). The boat was originally spec'd to draw 1' 10" with everything up, but it draws at least 2' when loaded for cruising. Draft is 6' with the keel down. The aft end of the keel is faired to fill the hull aperture when the keel is fully down. It is lowered by gravity and raised via a winch on the coachroof that hauls a pennant attached to a block and tackle arrangement with 6:1 purchase. I've been in caught in some rather high winds (39 - 45 kts) several times in the 21 years I've owned her, but never came close to a knockdown. The boat tends to head up in strong puffs and does not like to have the rail buried. The Clearwater 35 is not a tender boat and typically reaches close-hauled maximum speed with a max of 20° heel. Form stability is part of the design equation along with weight discipline by the designer, Craig Walters, who also designed similar Sequin boats of 40' and over. With inboard shrouds and a low aspect fin keel, the Clearwater 35 goes to weather better than most. It has a shorter WLL and displaces at 2000# more than a J-35, so it isn't a real race boat. However, the swing keel allows shortcuts and anchoring where most can't. And I can keep it at my shallow water (2.5' MLW) dock--no J-35's allowed! Maintenance has been minimal. I did replace the original SS keel pin, about 17 years ago when it appeared to be weeping at the seals. The new pin is 316 SS, whereas the original appeared to be 304 SS, and it hasn't leaked since. The 17 yr old seals are still going strong. The only other maintenance item is the pennant, which is 1/2" Dacron braid, and lasts over 10 years before it gets worn from winching. The keel trunk is the elephant in the main salon, extending all the way up to the coachroof, so it isn't for everyone--just those who need adjustable draft in a boat that sails very well.  

There are several French boats with variable draft. Alubat Ovni, Allures, Garcia Expedition, Boreal...... They are typically ‘expedition’ boats rather than fast cruisers but they command a very loyal following and are great for high tidal ranges and going anywhere that ‘dries out’. Not sure what your objective is in looking for lifting centerboard or swing keel but worth taking a look anyhow.  

Wow! An 18 year old thread that's been dead for over 10 years comes back to life!  

And unlike electronics, most of the old comments are still relevant!  

Tele from talks with owners of these boats another aspect that draws people to these boats is behavior in extreme weather. Apparently with board up even if sideways to a wave they will slide not broach and turn turtle. With a jsd out and companionway closed the storm tactic is totally passive. An excellent feature for a couple. Also trade wind sailing is downwind so the decrease in wetted surface with board up is helpful. Boreal had the centerboard but also two small daggerboards way aft. Downwind the configuration is centerboard up daggerboard(s) down. Given they are Al and coatings are expensive although marketing photos show them beached from what I understand beaching is avoided. Sand is very abrasive and if in surf the boat will settle some. However in places where anchoring stern to beach and bow in shallow water would have been very convenient. Going off the sugar scoop into waist deep water to wade to the beach would be slick.  

Outbound, you are right on all counts. I confess that I did not quite have the guts to pull the trigger on any of the boats listed and instead went with a fixed keel on an Aluminum boat. But I sailed a few before making the decision and was very nearly ready. In the end, I was prepared to sacrifice the Bahamas for simplicity (did not go for air-con, generator or any high maintenance systems other than an autopilot)  

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Ovni 430 review: new interpretation of a successful concept

• Rupert Holmes
• November 22, 2023

More and more boatbuilders are offering electric or hybrid propulsion as an option, but is it viable yet for a heavy aluminium yacht such as the Ovni 430?

Product Overview

Price as reviewed:.

The concept of rugged aluminium centreboard boats is well proven, but can a boat displacing 14 tonnes when loaded sail well in the light airs that predominate during summer in cruising areas such as the Med, northern Europe and even the Arctic? And can hybrid propulsion work in that context? The chance to jump on the first Ovni 430 to leave the yard during September’s heatwave provided clear answers to both questions.

First impressions of the Ovni 430 are of very practical and seamanlike arrangements, with acres of flat deck space, deep bulwarks, plus solid metal handholds, mostly near waist height. There are also plenty of mooring cleats, a capacious deep chain locker and our test boat was also fitted with substantial granny bars at the mast.

The standard of finish on deck is high, with welds ground perfectly smooth, neat paintwork and the general feel of a well specified, comfortable yacht. It’s a marked contrast to Ovni’s trademark raw aluminium topsides that resist knocks and dings so well.

We set out from Les Sables d’Olonne in a dying southerly breeze, under mainsail and an all-purpose gennaker in just six knots of true wind. Not so long ago most yachts of this size and weight would most likely have needed at least 10 knots of wind to get moving. But not in this case – we consistently made just over four knots, representing an impressive 70% of true wind speed.

Purposeful new centreboard design for most cruising waters. Photo: Christophe Favreau

The Ovni 430 is Ovni’s first model with an additional chine in the bottom of the hull, which reduces wetted surface area. The twin angled rudders are mounted well outboard on this chine and the steering has been re-engineered to give a more direct response.

Despite the very light conditions, and the boat’s substantial weight, the helm felt positive at all times. Even with boat speeds as low as two knots, it was responsive and predictable, without oversteer and with a directness of feel that belies the hefty displacement. This is all the more impressive given the necessity for the rudders to be relatively short, with a low aspect ratio, to enable the boat to dry out on its flat bottom. By the time we swapped to the Code 0 the wind had died to less than four knots, with boat speed under sail struggling to get much above half that.

But adding a small boost from the electric motor – our test boat is the first-ever Ovni with hybrid propulsion – made a huge difference.

The Ovni 430 on test proved adept at silent motorsailing in light breeze. Photo: Christophe Favreau

A silent nudge

Just 3.3kW of propulsion power more than doubled boat speed to 4.4 knots, markedly improving range before needing power from the range-extending 11kW Fischer Panda diesel generator. Unlike motorsailing with a diesel propulsion engine, the only audible sound is a very low level from the gearbox – a noise that’s normally drowned out by the racket of even the best soundproofed internal combustion engines.

With this combination of sail and motor, we could have continued for more than six hours before depleting the 28.8kW lithium-ion phosphate battery bank and resorting to the generator, despite there being only four knots of true wind.

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The genset is far quieter than any diesel propulsion engine thanks to a soundproof box and very soft mounts. The hybrid arrangement also allows for a smaller propulsion battery to be specified than for electric-only boats. Yet the expectation is it will rarely be used – the test boat has 900W of solar, while the electric motor’s regeneration mode produces 300W when sailing at 4.5 knots, a figure that increases exponentially with speed. There will be many occasions, therefore, in which the batteries can be fully replenished while on passage.

Expansive foredeck is emphasised by full bow sections. Photo: Christophe Favreau

Step change in style

This boat is a development of the Ovni 400, launched only three years ago, which itself was a big move for the yard. Its step change of style, with near-vertical topsides, a rounded reverse bow and proportionately longer waterline represented major changes compared to earlier generations. The Ovni 430 uses the same hull with a few modifications, including wider sections in the forward two-thirds of the boat that increase both form stability and volume in the owners cabin.

Despite its bulk and weight the 430 proved responsive. Photo: Christophe Favreau

As well as the additional chine in the lower part of the hull, builder Alubat changed to what it calls ‘semi thick’ construction for the Ovni 430. This uses 10mm aluminium for the bottom plate, 8mm for the rest of the hull and 6mm for deck and coachroof. By contrast, earlier models, including the Ovni 400, used 8mm alloy plate throughout. The Ovni 430 therefore has a lower centre of gravity and greater stability, yet the important bottom plating is thicker and more resistant to damage.

As standard the Ovni 430 has a conventional pin-head mainsail, with an 8m2 larger square-top sail as an option. Running backstays are needed for this configuration, though spreaders are well swept back, giving the rig support when gybing in lighter airs. In stronger breezes, with the first reef tucked in, the sail clears the runners, so both can be kept in tension. There’s a choice of a permanently rigged roller reefing staysail, as on our test boat, or a sail set flying on a furler that can be removed when not needed.

Both the deck saloon and the classic saloon option of the test boat (pictured) include a raised navstation. Photo: Christophe Favreau

Two easy steps behind each helm station lead to the side decks. Cap shrouds are taken to the outside of the hull, via substantial aluminium chainplates welded to the structure, while lower shrouds terminate next to the coachroof sides, leaving a clear passage along the side decks. However, trips to the foredeck in anything other than comfortable conditions should be rare.

Most controls, apart from jib, staysail and spinnaker sheets, are handled at the companionway, under the protection of the optional solid aluminium doghouse fitted to the test boat. This offers great protection from the elements, yet doesn’t interfere greatly with visibility from the twin helm stations.

Alubat offers a number of options for mainsail reefing, with the boat I sailed having a single line system for the first two reefs, plus separate leech and luff pennants for the third. Decent roller bearing cars for the luff track further ease the effort associated with handling the mainsail.

The raised nav station. Photo: Christophe Favreau

Three electric winches also help minimise physical effort. These include both primaries, which are ergonomically mounted inboard on pedestals aft of the seating around the cockpit table. The starboard companionway winch is also electric and is used for both the main halyard and the 700kg ballasted centreboard.

There are plenty of pockets for rope tails in the coamings, and under the inboard winch pedestals. Unlike earlier Ovni models the mainsheet is no longer taken to the stern arch, but still uses the same concept of identical systems port and starboard that are led to the coachroof instead. This works well, giving control of sail shape while also stabilising the boom. A smaller arch aft supports the dinghy davits, plus some of the solar panels and is more neatly integrated with the pushpits than on the 400.

Manageable volume

With one exception, changes to the interior of the new model are mostly minor compared to the 400. These include more volume in the forward owners cabin, plus a greater amount of stowage throughout. The wider forward hull sections allowed the front of the coachroof to be widened by 235mm, creating a greater feeling of space in the saloon without compromising side deck width.

Wider forward sections increase space in the owner’s cabin. Photo: Christophe Favreau

At the same time, freeboard is reduced by 9cm, lowering the boat’s centre of gravity and making it easier to step off onto a pontoon. A step down into the forward and aft cabins from the saloon means this was achieved without reducing headroom. The boom is also slightly lower and headsails are tacked a little lower, increasing sail area without adding air draught.

The big change for the interior of the Ovni 430 is a new deck saloon option. This variant has the same exterior dimensions and structure as the classic saloon on our test boat, but has a raised dining area that allows a view through the coachroof windows. By contrast, in the classic model when seated you can only see out through a single hull window each side in the saloon. Both versions also have a neat raised navstation that allows a view out of the coachroof windows.

The large linear galley to starboard, which benefits from good stowage and worktop space, is also common to both. Our test boat was equipped with a GN Espace marinised induction hob, electric gimballed oven, as well as space saving and ergonomic sinks and Gastronorm storage units and utensils from the same company.

A useful technical area aft of the heads includes a single bunk with an aluminium base under the mattress, allowing this area to double as a workbench. It also gives access to all the electrical components and the generator.

A large technical area includes plenty of space for genset and electronics. Photo: Christophe Favreau

Returning to port using 4.2kW of electric propulsion at an average speed of 4.5 knots gave plenty of time to pack the boat away, without depleting the battery bank more than necessary. At this point the OceanVolt display showed 82% charge remaining, with around 4.5 hours range left at that speed.

Above modest speeds wavemaking resistance increases exponentially, so boat speed of a shade over six knots required 22kW of power, equating to little more than an hour of range under electric power alone. Running the generator would double this and a larger genset could be installed to extend range at higher speeds to a level where diesel tankage is the key constraint.

The first boat’s Canadian owners, who bought an Ovni to fulfil a long-standing ambition of sailing across the Atlantic, are very happy with the system and installation. They have yet to need to run the generator in anger, though point out the Oceanvolt throttle control lacks the feel of a conventional unit, even though electric car manufacturers have solved this issue.

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The Ovni 430 is a new interpretation of a successful concept and a significant update, while still representing evolution rather than revolution. The changes may not appear major on paper, but they add up to a boat that’s easier and more appealing to spend long periods of time on board. It’s more manoeuvrable, yet also more reliable thanks to elements such as a tunnel bow thruster in place of a retractable unit, and the rope system for lifting the centreboard instead of hydraulics. In addition to well appointed arrangements on deck and neatly installed systems, the comfort factor is a very important attribute for Ovni’s customers and has been addressed successfully. Add in the low maintenance unpainted topsides and you get a very appealing result. As for the hybrid propulsion system, once more owners experience the benefits at first hand – including the quiet odour free operation, potential for significant range with long periods of autonomy, plus reduced maintenance – many more will surely opt for it.

Centerboard (Swing Keel) vs. Fixed Keel: Pros and Cons

Picking the right sailboat keel takes some understanding of the pros and cons of each. To help you out, I'll list the pros and cons of fixed vs. swing keels on sailboats in this article.

Fixed keels offer better performance than swing keels and centerboards, since they are more comfortable and faster. They require less maintenance. However, swing keels offer a low draft, and are less prone to damage when running aground. Swing keels can also be trailered, making them easier to transport.

Fixed Keels: Pros vs. Cons

Swing Keels: Pros vs. Cons

Let's see what's hidden under these claims.

On this page:

The difference between fixed, swing, and centerboard keels, pros of fixed keels, cons of fixed keels, pros of swing keels, cons of swing keels, swing keel or fixed keel: which one is for you.

Just to make sure we all know what is being talked about, let's first briefly discuss the terms.

• Fixed keels are immovable and part of the structure of the hull
• Swing keels are on a hinge, allowing you to change the angle
• Centerboard keels are a board that you can lower through a slit in the hull

Brief explanation of fixed keels

A fixed keel is just what it sounds like. It's a keel that stays in its place and is immovable.

No matter its size, shape, or weight, it is a keel that doesn't move relative to the boat. It is also the most traditional one you will encounter.

Brief explanation of swing keels

A swing keel is one that has a variable position. Meaning you can change its angle, you can retract it to the boat's hull, sometimes you can take it away completely.

A typical swing keel will hang on a hinge of sorts while being attached to the boat with a line, a cable, or anything that will enable you to pull it up.

These too come in all shapes and sizes, though they are usually lighter, unweighted.

More detailed look at swing keels: For a detailed explanation of swing keels (also called lifting keels), I recommend reading Shawn's detailed article explaining the swing keel's properties, advantages and disadvantages using clear diagrams and examples.

Brief explanation of centerboard keels

To make things a bit more interesting, let's add another one. Centerboard keels are often being put in the same category as swing keels, but that is not always the case. But since there is a lot of mix-up in terminology regarding this one, I will put them in the same category too.

Not that I'd want to confuse you, but if I go by the correct terms, you might come across different ones when looking up your desired boat's stats.

An example of a typical centerboard would be a keel you see on small sailing dinghies - a board that goes into a slit in the hull's bottom and can be taken out completely, depending on your needs.

Now to help you with your decision - this isn't a matter of better or worse. While fixed keels are kind of the standard, and tend to offer the best performance and convenience, the need for those with variable depth arose from the need for less draft.

Because performance and convenience do nothing for you if your boat runs aground and can't move.

Understanding Keel Design Fundamentals in 10 minutes

There are too many keel types to get into in this article. For a more detailed explanation of keel design fundamentals, I recommend you go through our Illustrated Guide to Sailboat Keel Types . It also contains a full list of the most common keel designs and their properties . Simply skimming it will help you understand the basics in ten minutes or less. Get the full picture on keel design

Fixed keels are more durable

The first point to mention here surely is durability. A fixed keel has no moving parts, so less chance of something breaking, less need for maintenance, and less hassle with mechanical parts.

This might not seem like much of a plus to many, but spend a few weeks on a sailboat, or plan a more ambitious journey such as an ocean crossing and you will find that maintenance is a big part of it all. And you will be thankful for every bit of the boat that doesn't require much of it and can take care of itself.

Fixed keels have a fixed draft

Another advantage is that you have a fixed draft to think about, no need to lift keels, or calculate where you can go - so your sail will be a bit more stress-free. In a way.

Fixed keels are more stable

The biggest point of them all though is performance. Fixed keels are almost always weighted, they offer good counterbalance to heeling and can help you with both sailing upwind and your boat's stability and a smoother ride.

That is why for most long-distance cruisers or racing boats, a fixed keel will likely be the weapon of choice.

But the above point is also relative since there are weighted swing keels - more on that later.

More prone to damage in shallows

What you got is what you got. If your draft is 10 feet, that is how deep you can run before risking damage, end of story. So you are automatically disqualified from entering certain places.

I personally don't see that as an issue but that is mostly owed to where I sail. If I spent more time on lakes or shallow waters, I might rethink my preferences. I've heard Florida tends to be quite depthless.

All the bays that are off-limits for a fixed keel, or anchorages where you pray you won't drag since there isn't much wiggle room … a lifting keel can take quite a lot of pressure off your hands.

If you do want to opt for a fixed keel, take a look at full keels instead of the more popular modern fin keel designs. Surprisingly, the more stable full keel design provides equal stability and durability at a lower draft . William took a very close look at the advantages of the full keel design and has written an excellent article that will run you through each of the full keel's specific benefits.

Fixed keels will damage when running aground

If you do run aground, chances are you will damage your boat. Freeing yourself from running aground is a lot easier with a swing keel. Sometimes you'll have no option but to wait until the tide rises. Not even another boat can drag a well dug-in fixed keel.

Swing keels offer very low drafts

The obvious advantage is the fact your draft will go to a minimum. The numbers depend on the specific model, some keels can be retracted more than others, but having the versatility pays off in many locations.

Lake sailors will appreciate this. So will people who happen to be in naturally shallow areas. There are marinas unsuitable for deep draft sailboats and having the option to change your draft can come in handy in some places.

They are less prone to damage when running aground

And if you do happen to run aground, it doesn't have to be an issue. The swing keel can simply swing as much as needed and you can slide over the bump. More or less. Having a negotiable draft would have saved many sailors annoying and expensive repairs.

They are easy to debeach

And in case you do get beached, getting out of such a situation is easier. Sometimes it can be as swift as lifting the keel and motoring away.

Swing keels can be trailered

Then there is the matter of getting the boat out of the water and trailering it. It can be as easy as popping the keel up, driving the boat on a towable trailer, and voila. Try doing that with a fixed keel. Transporting your boat will be much easier, which is why this design is popular with weekend sailors .

Easier to work on on-shore

Last and also least, since this isn't such a big deal, the ability to minimize the draft can come in handy when working on your boat once it is on shore. You might be able to reach your hull without ladders or scaffolding, making the access way more convenient.

Swing keels are slower and less stable

Putting the precise terminology aside, swing keels, centerboards or daggerboards, are less likely to be weighted. Thus you might end up with one that provides very little in terms of counterbalance and that reduces performance greatly.

Though as hinted before, there are weighted swing keels available. Some so heavy that you won't see a difference between them and fixed keels performance-wise.

For cruisers who don't care about performance that much, as long as they get to their destination, this won't matter. But if you care about speed, well, there is a reason why you won't see many swing keel racing boats.

They require a lot more maintenance

The biggest one though is maintenance. This is such a big part of having a swing keel boat that there are manufacturers who will prompt you to check the keel before every use. And that can get a bit daunting.

There is the line used for pulling the keel up, a winch of some sort (though you can do this by hand on smaller boats), the hinges, and the means of attaching everything together, whatever the system. All of this requires regular maintenance, or your keel might snap of (it happens).

As is usual, it all depends on the way you use your boat. Some boat designs seem nonsensical to many, but there is usually a good reason why they came into existence. A swing keel is no different.

If made to choose between a swing and fixed keel, my choice would be a fixed keel any day of the week, but that is determined by my preferences and where I sail the most (as well as my love for uncompromised performance and unreasonably high fear of capsizing - which is more likely with an unweighted swing keel than one that runs deep and stays there permanently).

Lake sailors, those who find themselves in shallows, or those who like to park their boats on beaches every now and then are better off with a swing keel. Those who know they can't avoid the occasional touchdown, perhaps simply because they sail in unpredictable waters, will probably do well to choose this design too. If you trailer your boat often, have a daysailor that you want to back into your garage after a day on the water, the choice is quite clear as well.`

Helping you decide on the best keel design

There are dozens of keel designs out there, and each type serves a different purpose and excels under different conditions. To understand which keel type is best for your situation , I recommend you read our Illustrated Guide to Sailboat Keel Types , which contains the fundamentals of keel design and an overview for each keel type's characteristics (including diagrams). It will help you understand which keel designs to consider in ten minutes or less.

There are many sailboats to choose from on both sides of the camp and if you are looking for people's experiences, you are in luck - this is one of the rare topics that doesn't divide sailors, so asking a question in an online forum won't bring an armada of fighters for this or that side - rather a bunch of helpful folks.

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You may also like, sailboat keel types: illustrated guide (bilge, fin, full).

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Savvino-storozhevsky monastery and museum.

Zvenigorod's most famous sight is the Savvino-Storozhevsky Monastery, which was founded in 1398 by the monk Savva from the Troitse-Sergieva Lavra, at the invitation and with the support of Prince Yury Dmitrievich of Zvenigorod. Savva was later canonised as St Sabbas (Savva) of Storozhev. The monastery late flourished under the reign of Tsar Alexis, who chose the monastery as his family church and often went on pilgrimage there and made lots of donations to it. Most of the monastery’s buildings date from this time. The monastery is heavily fortified with thick walls and six towers, the most impressive of which is the Krasny Tower which also serves as the eastern entrance. The monastery was closed in 1918 and only reopened in 1995. In 1998 Patriarch Alexius II took part in a service to return the relics of St Sabbas to the monastery. Today the monastery has the status of a stauropegic monastery, which is second in status to a lavra. In addition to being a working monastery, it also holds the Zvenigorod Historical, Architectural and Art Museum.

Belfry and Neighbouring Churches

Located near the main entrance is the monastery's belfry which is perhaps the calling card of the monastery due to its uniqueness. It was built in the 1650s and the St Sergius of Radonezh’s Church was opened on the middle tier in the mid-17th century, although it was originally dedicated to the Trinity. The belfry's 35-tonne Great Bladgovestny Bell fell in 1941 and was only restored and returned in 2003. Attached to the belfry is a large refectory and the Transfiguration Church, both of which were built on the orders of Tsar Alexis in the 1650s.  

To the left of the belfry is another, smaller, refectory which is attached to the Trinity Gate-Church, which was also constructed in the 1650s on the orders of Tsar Alexis who made it his own family church. The church is elaborately decorated with colourful trims and underneath the archway is a beautiful 19th century fresco.

Nativity of Virgin Mary Cathedral

The Nativity of Virgin Mary Cathedral is the oldest building in the monastery and among the oldest buildings in the Moscow Region. It was built between 1404 and 1405 during the lifetime of St Sabbas and using the funds of Prince Yury of Zvenigorod. The white-stone cathedral is a standard four-pillar design with a single golden dome. After the death of St Sabbas he was interred in the cathedral and a new altar dedicated to him was added.

Under the reign of Tsar Alexis the cathedral was decorated with frescoes by Stepan Ryazanets, some of which remain today. Tsar Alexis also presented the cathedral with a five-tier iconostasis, the top row of icons have been preserved.

Tsaritsa's Chambers

The Nativity of Virgin Mary Cathedral is located between the Tsaritsa's Chambers of the left and the Palace of Tsar Alexis on the right. The Tsaritsa's Chambers were built in the mid-17th century for the wife of Tsar Alexey - Tsaritsa Maria Ilinichna Miloskavskaya. The design of the building is influenced by the ancient Russian architectural style. Is prettier than the Tsar's chambers opposite, being red in colour with elaborately decorated window frames and entrance.

At present the Tsaritsa's Chambers houses the Zvenigorod Historical, Architectural and Art Museum. Among its displays is an accurate recreation of the interior of a noble lady's chambers including furniture, decorations and a decorated tiled oven, and an exhibition on the history of Zvenigorod and the monastery.

Palace of Tsar Alexis

The Palace of Tsar Alexis was built in the 1650s and is now one of the best surviving examples of non-religious architecture of that era. It was built especially for Tsar Alexis who often visited the monastery on religious pilgrimages. Its most striking feature is its pretty row of nine chimney spouts which resemble towers.

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• by Melissa Hammam
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Hands up if you’re ready to be dazzled! From a ceremony structure designed to float on water to a jaw-dropping reception room with flowers blooming from every service, we’re swooning over every bit of this wedding. If you can believe it, that’s just the beginning. Julia Kaptelova artfully shot every detail, like the ballet performance guests were treated to and snow falling from the ceiling for the first dance! Prepare to be amazed and take a visit to the full gallery .

From About You Decor … Our design is a symbol of dawn and a distant endless horizon. Ahead is a long, happy life without any borders. An international couple, Pavel and Cherry, met in London and have been walking together for many years.

From the Bride, Cherry… My husband and I we decided to have our summer wedding in Moscow because the city is where his roots are. As we knew we were going to have the other wedding ceremony in China, we wanted our Moscow one to be very personal and intimate. We’ve known each other since we were fourteen, together with many of our friends whom we’ve also known for a decade.

I didn’t want to walk down the aisle twice so the plausibility of my request quickly came into discussion. The open pontoon stage was constructed in order to facilitate the bridal entrance on water, although there were concerns about safety as the last thing we wanted was probably a drowned bride before she could get on stage, picture that! I have to say on that day it wasn’t easy to get on the pontoon stage from the boat, in my long gown and high heels. Luckily my bridesmaids still noticed even though they stood the furthest from me on the stage, and helped me out without prior rehearsal. My girls could just tell whenever I needed a hand or maybe they were just so used to my clumsiness. Who knows 😂

We all love our photographer Julia! She’s so talented and her style is so unique. Our beloved host Alex is exceptional who made everyone laugh and cry. It was truly a blessing to have so many kind and beautiful souls on our big day. Thank you all!

[iframe https://player.vimeo.com/video/384992271 600 338]

Photography: Julia Kaptelova Photography | Wedding Planner: Caramel | Cake: Any Cake | Invitations: Inviteria | Rings: Harry Winston | Band: Menhouzen | Grooms attire: Ermenegildo Zegna | Wedding Venue: Elizaveta Panichkina | Bridesmaids’ dresses: Marchesa | Bridesmaids’ dresses: Alice McCall | Bride’s gown : Jaton Couture | Bride’s shoes: Manolo Blahnik | Decor : About you decor | Earrings: Damiani | Muah: Khvanaco Studio | Video: Artem Korchagin

More Princess-Worthy Ballgowns

I’m still not convinced this Moscow wedding, captured to perfection by  Sonya Khegay , isn’t actually an inspiration session—it’s just  that breathtaking. From the beautiful Bride’s gorgeous lace wedding dress and flawless hair and makeup to the pretty pastel color palette and stunning ceremony and reception spaces, this wedding is almost too good to be true. Do yourself a favor and see it all in The Vault now!

From Sonya Khegay … It was the last day of April and still very cold in the morning. The weather forecast wasn’t pleasing and no one expected that the sun would come out, but miracles happen and light rain gave way to the warm rays.

I love how all the details went together, you could feel the harmony in everything throughout the entire wedding day from the morning until the fireworks.

A gentle look of the bride, elegant but so airy and unique decor, the fresh and light atmosphere of early spring and, of course, true happiness in the eyes. My heart becomes so warm from these memories, it is always a pleasure to see the birth of a new family of two loving hearts.

Photography: Sonya Khegay | Event Design: Latte Decor | Event Planning: Ajur Wedding | Floral Design: Blush Petals | Wedding Dress: La Sposa | Stationery: Special Invite | Bride's Shoes: Gianvito Rossi | Hair + Makeup: Natalie Yastrebova | Venue: Rodniki Hotel

• by Elizabeth Greene

You really can’t go wrong with simple: a beautiful Bride , perfectly pretty petals , loved ones all around. But add in an amazing firework show  to cap off the night and simple just became downright extraordinary. Captured by Lena Elisseva , with assistance by  Katya Butenko , this rustic Russian celebration is simply fantastic. See it all in the Vault right here !

From Lena Eliseeva Photo …  This cozy and warm summer wedding of gorgeous Natalia and Anton was in the middle of June. The young couple decided to organize their wedding themselves, and the day was very personal and touching. I am absolutely in love with rustic outdoor weddings, and this one is my favourite because of the free and easy atmosphere.

All the decor excluding the bride’s bouquet was made by a team of ten friends of the bride and groom. And it was charming – a light and beautiful arch, eco-style polygraphy and succulents, candy-bar with caramel apples and berries – sweet joys of summer.

At the end of ceremony the guests tossed up white handkerchiefs embroidered by Natalia’s own hands.

The most touching moment was the happy eyes of the groom’s grandmother, the most estimable person on the wedding. And the fireworks were a bright end to that beautiful day.

Photography: LENA ELISEEVA PHOTO | Floral Design: Katerina Kazakova | Hair And Makeup: Svetlana Fischeva | Photography - Assistance: Katya Butenko

These photos from Lena Kozhina are so stunningly beautiful – as in you can’t help but stop and stare – it’s hard to believe it’s real life. But these pics are proof of this gorgeous Bride and her handsome Groom’s celebration at Moscow’s Fox Lodge , surrounded by vibrant colors and breathtaking blooms . Oh, and the idea of prepping for your Big Day outside in the sun ? Brilliant. See more bright ideas right here !

From Lena Kozhina … When we met with the couple for the first time, we immediately paid attention to Dima’s behavior towards Julia. There was a feeling of tenderness and awe, and we immediately wanted to recreate this atmosphere of love, care and warmth on their Big Day.

Later, when we had chosen a green meadow and an uncovered pavilion overlooking a lake as the project site, it only highlighted a light summer mood with colorful florals and a great number of natural woods. The name of the site is Fox Lodge and peach-orange color, as one of the Bride’s favorites, set the tone for the whole design – from the invitations, in which we used images of fox cubs to elements of serving guest tables and other decorative elements with the corresponding bright accents.

Photography: Lena Kozhina | Event Planning: Ajur Wedding | Wedding Dress: Rosa Clara | Shoes: Marc Jacobs | Catering: Fox Lodge | Makeup Artist: Elena Otrembskaya | Wedding Venue: Fox Lodge | Cake and Desserts: Yumbaker | Decor: Latte Decor

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