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• Sailboat Reviews

Practical Sailor Reviews Seven Performance-Sailing Dinghies

Agile, fun boats like the classic sunfish and new hobie bravo keep the smile in summer sailing..

Photos by Ralph Naranjo

Messing around in small boats is a global theme-one thats embraced by pond-bound pram sailors, river riders, lake voyagers, and all of us who call salt water home. The purpose of this sailing dinghy profile is to highlight seven very interesting little sailboats. Some are new designs, and others have stood the test of time, but all are currently being manufactured, and each drives home just how much fun sailing close to the water can be.

This isn’t a shootout among anorexic speedsters or a report on the best tender that doubles as a sailing dinghy. Its a look at perennials like the Optimist, Sunfish, and Laser-legendary competitors that have helped spawn some of the best sailors in the world. But its also a look at three of the newest entries in the dinghy-sailing circle: Bics Open, Hobies Bravo, and Laser Performances Bug. These agile, new sailing dinghies are chock full of fun and boat-handling features to inspire kids of all ages to go sailing.

Well also take a look at Chesapeake Light Crafts kit approach to getting started-one that offers meaningful lessons and tangible rewards well before the boat ever hits the water.

Scale down an Open 60, add sail technology long favored by windsurfers, and put it into play in a tough thermo-formed hull, and you have the makings for a new kind of watercraft. The result is a very interesting blend of performance and reliability that targets adolescent interest. When all is said and done, Bics boat is more akin to a sit-down windsurfer than a traditional Blue Jay. And like all good boats, its vying for attention not just based on performance, construction quality, and style, but just as importantly, on the price tag stuck to the hull.

The Open Bics light weight and wide, flat stern section means that even small chop can be surfed; and bursts of planing on a reach add a zing factor to dinghy sailing. The Open Bic is already an International Sailing Federation (ISAF)-sanctioned class, and fleets are developing around the US. Another bonus: Its an easily portable boat that can be carried like a windsurfer, adding excitement to a Sunday picnic at the beach.

The thermo-formed polyethylene hull is a modified hard-chine design with lots of beam aft. Sailed flat, the boat is agile enough to surf wavelets, and with a shape thats ergonomically friendly to hiking, the ensuing heel on the upwind leg puts just the right amount of chine into the water. In light air, careful control of heel can significantly reduce wetted surface.

The design team that developed the Open Bic saw it as a transition bridge from Optimist sailing to a more performance-oriented dinghy. An interesting innovation is that the Open Bic can be sailed with an Optimists rig and blades. This buy the hull only approach can be a significant incentive for parents with children outgrowing their Opti as fast as their boat shoes. However it wont be long before the kids want the fully turbo-charged feel delivered with the Open Bics well-shaped 4.5-square-meters rig, sail, and nicely foiled blades.

Bottom line: The Open Bic is fast, agile, and buckets of fun for kids uninspired by sailing in the slow lane.

Just when you think that Hobie Cat Co. has covered whats possible in beach-cat innovation, their design/engineering crew comes up with a new twist that reinvents the wheel. The Hobie Bravo is a good case in point.

In a recent visit to Backyard Boats ( www.backyardboats.com ) in Annapolis, Md., we got a good look at the Bravo. Nearly as narrow as a monohull but still quite stable, this quick-to-launch beach cat packs plenty of get-up-and-go. Its a simple to sail, entry-level boat that fast tracks learning the steer, sheet, and hike trilogy. The boat features a single, midline rudder and roto-molded hulls. The shape of the hulls provides enough lateral plane to allow a crew to make headway to windward.

The narrow (4 feet), 12-foot Bravo uses crew weight and hiking straps to add to the righting moment once the breeze is up. Whats done with webbing on larger cats has been converted to a shallow, rigid deck well on the Bravo. It does raise the weight of the boat to 195 pounds, but it offers comfortable seating plus room for cushions and a cooler. Kids or grown ups can have a Tom Sawyer-Huck Finn type of adventure aboard this fun little sailing machine. Or the family on a beach picnic can set it up and take turns speed reaching along a sandy shoreline.

The furling mast supports a roachy sail with slightly slanted vertical battens, helping to shape the boomless mainsail. The result is convenient sail handling, decent performance, and superior safety. Theres no boom to clobber the crew, and the roller-furled sail and mast are easily stepped in the tripod-like receiver. This interesting set of struts raises the top bearing point of the mast step and spreads rig loads out to the hulls. The furling mainsail offers the ability to reef, a big plus in a building breeze or when teaching children to sail.

Like all of the boats in the Hobie lineup, theres a wide range of specialty parts and fittings that make the boats fast to rig and easy to handle. The kick-up rudder is hung on gudgeons mounted in the center of stern, and just as rig loads have been effectively spread via the tripod step, the energy radiating from the large rudder is spread athwartships via a contoured deck element.

Bottom line: The boat is quick to rig, easy to launch, and responsive to beginners-more experienced sailors will have just as much fun power reaching when the breeze is up.

A pocket-sized club trainer, the Bug is an evolution of the kids trainer/club racer that leverages lessons learned in Optis, Dyers, and Sabots. It pulls together the logic of a stable hull shape and simple-to-sail rig, and puts it all in a cost-effective package.

Lending to its success is designer Jo Richardss ergonomic, roto-molded hull, a fabrication that is as close to zero maintenance as a boat can get. The straight out-of-the-mold polyethylene skin gets a few decals, and theres no wood to refinish or gelcoat to wax. These tough, abrasion-resistant hulls have a bumper boat tolerance thats a big plus when it comes to kids learning to sail. Best of all, owners can start with a learn-to-sail rig and upgrade to a more performance-oriented mast and sail package (41 or 56 square feet) that kicks performance into the fast lane.

Oars and an outboard motor bracket can be added to turn the little sailboat into a dual-purpose dinghy. Even the bow painters means of attachment makes sense-no projecting hardware ready to knick the topsides of unintended contacts. Instead, theres a recessed hole in the stem allowing a line to be lead through and a knot used to keep the painter in place.

Bottom line: Aimed at club programs and families look for boats that can be transported on the car top, the Bug is easy to rig and definitely kid friendly. The fact that its manufacturer, Laser Performance, is an international interest and a major player in the performance dinghy industry means that this boat and its parts will be around for a while.

Photo courtesy of Hobie Cat Co.

Eastport Pram

Chesapeake Light Craft expedites boatbuilding for do-it-yourselfers looking to take their garage-built boats for a sail. The company pre-cuts parts, packs kits with all the materials, epoxy, and paint youll need, and leads homebuilders through a thoroughly detailed stitch-and-glue approach to assembly. Kits are available in various stages of completeness, ranging from plans only to the full package, including sail, hardware, running rigging, and paint.

The Eastport Pram is just shy of 8 feet, and the marine plywood and epoxy construction delivers a boat that weighs in, sans sailing rig, at just 62 pounds. Lighter than the comparatively sized Bug, this stiff, durable dinghy, rows like a real boat and sails comfortably with one or two aboard. In keeping with other good tender attributes, the Pram behaves under tow and is equally amicable when propelled by a small outboard or tacked up an estuary under sail.

Kit boatbuilding continues to have a niche following. Theres also an added-value feature worth noting: On one hand, the builder receives a box of pieces and the result of his or her endeavor leads to an aesthetic and utilitarian dinghy. In addition, the DIY skills the builder develops will be useful in other epoxy bonding, brightwork, or mono-urethane application projects. Such talents will benefit many other boat maintenance endeavors.

Whats hard to quantify is the sense of accomplishment derived from sailing a boat that you have built yourself. When the project is tackled in tandem with a child, spouse, or friend, the memories and the boat will last.

Bottom line: With neither sidedecks or a sealed hull, this is not a boat thats easy to recover from a capsize. So once the kids favor on-the-edge sailing in a building breeze, a non swamping, easier-righting boat is probably a better option. The Pram can then be put to use by their appreciative parents or grandparents.

Never in their wildest dreams did Bruce Kirby and Ian Bruce imagine that the Weekender (the Lasers original name) was destined to become an Olympic class sailboat and one of the most popular springboards for top-tier sailors in the world today. Originally envisioned as a car-topper for weekend campers, the cat-rigged, low freeboard sailing dinghy morphed from its original roots into a boat favored by college competitors and revered by generations of agile sailors of all ages. Even frostbiting winter sailors have locked onto the Laser.

Designed in 1969, the Lasers first few years were anything but smooth sailing. Popularity grew quickly, but along with the limelight came plenty of consternation. Dubbed a surfboard not a sailboat by a growing cross-section of the yachting elite-many parents warned junior sailors to steer as clear of Lasers as they did sex, drugs and rock-n-roll. The campaign failed, and junior sailors in yacht club programs around the country fell into the grip of the new one-design dinghy-discovering the sailboats proclivity to plane.

Dyer Dhows languished in boat sheds across the country as a new theme in sailing took hold. Dubbed fast is fun by sailor/engineer Bill Lee, the young Merlin of Santa Cruz, Calif., took the theme to big-boat sailing, merging California culture with the Laser logic of light displacement and planing hull shapes.

Best of all, the Laser embraced the ideal of a tightly controlled one-design class that put people on the water in identical boats and left winning and losing races up to sailing skill and tactics rather than a boats performance edge. For decades, the boat has been the single-handed sailors choice among junior sailing programs, and with the addition of the Radial, 4.7 and M rigs, smaller competitors have also found the boat to be a great sailing platform. Today, theres some lawyer saber-rattling over the sale of the design rights, but the boat remains more popular than ever.

The sleeved sail, two-part spar, daggerboard, and kick-up rudder make the boat a quick-to-rig and fast-to-get underway dinghy. Light-air efficiency is good for a one-design sailboat, but this means that as the breeze builds, the non-reefable sail can become a handful in a hurry. In fact, the boats Dr. Jekyll-and-Mr. Hyde demeanor is what builds talent among Laser practitioners. The big boys block the mainsail and blast off for the layline, while lighter sailors heavy-weather tactics include more nuanced de-powering and feathering. In light air, the tables turn, and the winner is often the sailor who planes quickest on the reaches. The old guards surfboard slam may have held some credence after all.

Bottom line: The Laser is a timeless classic thats easily transported and is built for performance. Its well suited to adrenaline-seeking teens as well as the more fit adult crowd.

Designed in 1947 by Floridian Clark Mills, the utilitarian Optimist could be made out of two sheets of plywood-and from its inception, the Optimist was meant to link kids with the water. Slipping into obscurity in the U.S., the little pram found fertile ground to grow in northern Europe. With just a few tweaks, the Scandinavians took Millss lines and parlayed them into whats become the favored junior sailing trainer for kids from Detroit to Timbuktu. Statistics show that there are about 30 builders worldwide putting out approximately 4,000 boats each year. With about 130,000 boats class registered and an estimated 300,000 total hulls built (amateur and pro), theres plenty of reasons to get excited about an Opti.

The example weve chosen is the USA-built McLaughlin boat, both a demonstration of high-quality FRP construction and modern manufacturing techniques. Its also a boat that can be purchased in a range of performance-inducing iterations-upgrades designated as club, intermediate, advanced, and professional versions. Like all performance sailboats, stiffness and strength-to-weight ratio is important. But class rules include a minimum weight, so the most competitive hulls meet the mandatory lower limit but use good engineering and building technique to reinforce the daggerboard slot and mast step and produce overall stiffness.

The low mast height and high aspect ratio sprit sail is very versatile, affording young (and small, 65 to 130 pounds) sailors a wide window of decent performance. The flat bottom, slab-sided hull is responsive to crew weight-driven trim changes, and the better the sailor, the more agile they become. Light-air performance is all about minimizing wetted surface and maximizing sail area projection. When the breeze starts to kick up, the sailor becomes the ballast, and the art of hiking, sheet handling, and tiller wiggling come into play.

Under careful adult supervision, two 6- to 8-year-olds can double-hand the friendly little dinghy, or one more-confident child can solo sail it. In fact, introducing kids to sailing with similar proportioned small prams has been a right of passage around for decades. A set of oarlock gudgeons can turn the pram into a functional dinghy thats also adaptable to the smaller Torqeedo outboard (www.torqeedo.com).

McLaughlin also markets a Roto-molded polyethylene version of the Opti and sells DIY kits for those who want to create their own wood version.

Bottom line: The Opti is like a first bicycle without the need for training wheels. The fact that at the last Olympics, over 80 percent of the winning sailors had gotten their start in an Optimist speaks well to the value of messing around in this particular dinghy.

Designed in 1951 by ice boaters Alexander Bryan and Cortland Heyniger, the hard chine Sunfish was the prototype board boat. In 1959, it made the transition into fiberglass, and over the following half-century, more than a quarter-million hulls would hit the water. Simplicity and decent sailing attributes combined with an attractive price to make the Sunfish the most popular one-design dinghy ever raced.

Far more than a platform for racers, these boats are an excellent training tool for sailors of all ages. Also built by Laser Performance, they reflect the fun of summer and put sailors in close contact with the water on which they sail. Its no surprise that the larger fleets coincide with warm water and many see going for a swim to be part and parcel of the low-freeboard experience.

The lateen rig is in keeping with the overall design concept and simplifies rigging. A short stub of a mast is stepped and a single halyard hoists the sail along with tilting V-shaped upper and lower booms.

The total sail area is nearly the same as the Laser, but the halyard hoist versatility of the lateen rig make it a handy beach boat and a little less daunting when the wind begins to build. The clean sail shape on one tack and deformation caused by the mast on the other tack are a slight drawback. The Laser rig is more efficient, but when caught out in a squall, its nice to be able to ease the halyard and dump the sail. Its also handy to be able to leave the boat tethered to a mooring, and the doused sail and short mast make it possible.

Multiple generations of sailors are often found sailing Sunfish, and the boat represents one of the best bargains to be found in the used boat market. When considering a pre owned boat, the potential buyer needs to take a close look at the daggerboard-to-hull junction and mast step, points where previous damage can create hard-to-fix leaks.

Bottom line: The Sunfish is a great beach boat that can turn a hot afternoon into a fun-filled water experience.

There were no losers in this group, and picking winners and runners-up proved a difficult task. The outcome had to be based on assumptions about how these boats would be used. For example, parents with a competitive 9-year-old who swims like a fish, always sprints for the head of the lunch line, and likes to steal bases in Little League probably have an Opti racer in the making. Less competitive junior sailors-future cruisers in the making-will do better learning aboard a Bug. Many newly formed sailing clubs target the boat as their trainer of choice.

The Bravo holds plenty of appeal for those with a lakeside cottage or a favored campground destination. Whether its a solo sail just before sunset or a fun race on Sunday, the quick to set up and put away features are a plus, and for those who feel that two hulls are better-the Bravo will hold plenty of appeal.

Serious competitors can campaign a Laser for life, and whether youre headed for a local district regatta or getting ready for the Olympic trials, the hull, rig, and sail remains identical-sort of like the Monaco Grand Prix being raced in a street legal Mustang.

Bic Opens new little speedster tickled our fancy, and as a trainer/performance boat crossover, it drew a strong nod of approval. Watching the junior sailors smiles as they sailed their Open Bics endorsed our opinion.

And if there is any boat that defines the essence of summer, the Sunfish takes the prize.

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2024 Boat of the Year Best Dinghy: RS Toura

• By Dave Reed
• December 21, 2023

Sailboat racing’s future is inextricably linked to the flow of new sailors who walk through the doors of community sailing centers and yacht clubs. These establishments do the yeoman’s work to attract and retain sailors young and old, and often the biggest challenge is securing boats that deliver a positive sailing experience but can take the abuse. For many such establishments, the saving grace has been the roto-molded trainer, of which RS Sailboats is the dominant builder. It does plastic—and does it extremely well—and the versatile Toura is its best yet.  

“This is a fantastic learn-to-sail boat because it checks so many boxes,” Mike Ingham says. “It sails amazingly well, can bounce off a dock or be dragged up a beach, and can fit a lot of people. What really strikes me is how stable and spacious it is, but somehow it performs so much better than I expected. When it comes to innovation, this boat moves the needle for me, no question about it.”

The Toura is the result of a decade’s worth of feedback from sailing programs using RS Sailing’s Quest, its most popular roto-molded trainer, of which there are more than 3,000 in use around the world. “The Quest is an excellent boat,” says RS Sailing’s Todd Riccardi, “but people kept asking for a bigger boat with a little more room.”

That’s a big ask of even the most advanced roto-molding technology because the bigger the boat, the more complex the structure must be in order to keep it stiff and durable yet as light as possible. The Toura might just be at the edge of what’s possible. RS uses what it describes as a three-layer laminate to get a durable shell—an inner layer, a foam core and an outer layer that are applied in stages. But the real structure is from skeletal-like spines that bisect the cockpit and give the boat its rigidity.

At 15 feet, and with a few inches over 6 feet of beam, the Toura is a substantial dinghy that Riccardi says can comfortably fit as many as six to eight adults and double that amount of kids. Inboard bench seating running the entire length of the boat is how it can fit so many passengers. While that might push the limits of its buoyancy, the judges agreed four large adults would have the right amount of room to casually race and learn the ropes.

RS Sailing has a well-earned reputation for developing and vetting its new boats before bringing them to market, and the Toura is no exception. The boat has many smart features that simplify the learning experience, from launching to capsizing to boathandling and sail trimming. To get the kick-up rudder on and off is a one-button operation. There’s a temporary forestay for safely raising the rig, an adjustable jib-stay purchase at the mast, a single-line mainsail reefing system, and a continuous spinnaker halyard. Riccardi says the boat’s considerable stability is capsize-prevention enough, but should it end up on its side, the square-top main and buoyancy in the bench seating keep it from turtling quickly. In the event of a capsize, however, aluminum grab handles are built into strakes that run along the bottom of the hull.

The judges, sailing two-up and three-up, never got anywhere near the point of capsize in the 10 knots of breeze for the test. With Greg Stewart and Chuck Allen first into the boat, they promptly set the spinnaker and took off. “It sails great, both upwind and downwind,” Stewart says. “It has a great feel to the helm, and I pressed it hard a few times and it never spun out. All the rigging was really nice, and the sail controls all worked. My one comment is that the 4-to-1 mainsheet gets pretty loaded because the main is pretty powerful and the cloth is good, so I’d be inclined to add a becket block to the mainsheet to get a bit more purchase.”

Allen put high scores in his notebook and says he was able to sit comfortably on the seat and use the spine as a foot brace. “We had it going pretty quick and found that with a little heel angle, the chine bites and the boat suddenly feels really stable. Great all-around performance, and with the high boom, the low centerboard trunk, and the vang on top of the boom, it was easy to get across the boat. Downwind with the spinnaker, it was awesome. Every control was easy to pull, and the nonskid had excellent grip.”

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Types of Dinghies: How to Pick the Right One For You

While getting there is half the fun for a sailor, the other half is getting off the boat when you get there. Unless you spend every night in a marina or only go to harbors with launch services, you will need a dinghy.

So what is the right dinghy for you? If you plan to row, a hard dinghy may be the best option. For larger crews or families, inflatables with an outboard are more popular; the style will depend on storage needs. If you want to row, sail or motor, several hard dinghies fit the bill. Budget-conscious sailors should look at soft tail inflatables and inexpensive rowing dinghies.

To make an informed decision, you need to know your options and put some thought into how you will use it. Read on for an overview of your choices, and what to take into consideration as you decide.

On this page:

Types of dinghies, hard dinghies, inflatables, which is right for you.

When we're talking about a "dinghy," we're talking about a tender . This is a support boat you carry or tow to get you and your gear from land to the water and back again. We're not talking about dedicated sailing dinghies like Lasers, Optimists, or other sailing-only boats.

Technically, you can use a kayak or paddleboard to get to your boat and back, and some people do. But as a practical matter, if your boat is on a mooring or at anchor and you have to move your spouse, two kids, a cooler full of food, two bags of clothes and a sack of toys out to the boat, then get everyone off the boat to a beach with towels beach gear when you arrive, a kayak will not cut it.

A hard dinghy is the oldest and simplest style of tender, and they come in a variety of shapes, sizes, materials, and capacities. Most hard dinghies row very well, and most can be fitted with an outboard. Some hard dinghies can sail, which is a pleasant bonus and lets it double as a water toy. But a sailing dinghy as a primary choice has limitations based on winds and current, and a dinghy rigged to sail carries fewer people and less gear to make room for masts, booms, daggerboards and tillers.

When considering a hard dinghy, give serious thought to the construction material. Roto-molded plastic, PVC, fiberglass, and aluminum will usually be lighter than wood, but there are always tradeoffs. Dragging a boat up on a rocky beach will scratch all but the most rugged hulls. But many prefer the classic styling of a painted dinghy in pristine trim and have no plans to pull it over rocks or send it into a melee of splashing, rowdy cruising kids.

Materials and construction affect not only the durability of a hard dinghy, but the price. For example, you pay a premium for the near-indestructible and versatile Portland Pudgy, but a molded boat at a quarter of the cost may not last as long. Pay attention to weight and ergonomics like handles and wheels, since you may have to haul this boat up a beach or onto your boat.

Most hard dinghies have limited carrying capacity compared to similar sized inflatables and are less stable when boarding and loaded. This has much to do with the form stability of a hard hull versus tubes; a pair of big inflated tubes are hard to tip.

Hard Dinghy Pros

• Well suited to rowing and track well.
• Can usually take an engine and/or an optional sailing rig.
• Can not be punctured on docks or rocks.
• Tow very well, though you don't want to flip them.
• There are some very inexpensive options.

Hard Dinghy Cons:

• Capacity for gear and people is more limited.
• They can be tippy, especially when loaded.
• Some materials will get scraped and gouged on beaches and rocks.
• Can cause damage or get damaged by contact with the big boat.

Examples of Hard Dinghies

• Walker Bay - Injection-molded, polypropylene hull with an option sailing rig and inflatable tubes (for added stability) that can take a small engine. 8' and 10' models. Check it here.
• Portland Pudgy - Roto-molded polyethylene, a rugged dinghy which can take an outboard and has upgrade kits for sailing and use as a four-person life-raft. Check it here.
• OC Tender - Lightweight, high-performance carbon fiber planing dinghy. Not made for rowing, but stable planing with lower horsepower engines. Models from 8'9" to 11'6". Check it here.
• Fatty Knees - Traditional looking fiberglass hull with optional sailing rig. Sizes from 7' - 9', can also accommodate a small outboard. Check it here.
• Trinka - Fiberglass rowing and sailing dinghy, available in 8' and 10' models. Check it here.

Besides these, there are dozens of low-cost plastic, aluminum and wood rowing dinks available new and used. Nesting dinghies break down for compact storage, but usually must be bought as kits or plans and built.

Most cruising sailors use inflatable dinghies for their stability and carrying capacity. It's tough to beat giant rubber tubes for stability, though the tubes create a lot of drag moving through the water this is offset with engine horsepower and planing-form hulls.

An inflatable dinghy has several air tubes (from one to three, though most have multiple tubes) attached to a hull and most often floor. They also come in a variety of configurations, from soft bottomed inflatables without floors or transoms to large RIBs (Rigid Inflatable Boat) which attach the tubes to a stiff hull made of fiberglass or aluminum.

All but the lowest end inflatables will have a floor, and most will have a seat, though the tubes are usually the best seats. Some models are easier to deflate and pack, but most are kept inflated for ready use as filling and emptying them is a chore. Most inflatables row poorly, but can be rowed if the engine fails.

A major advantage of all inflatables is they bounce off the mother ship, whether you come in a little too hot with the engine or things shift in the night and the big boat bumps the dinghy. You'll be spared the hard thump in the night, but most importantly, you won't crunch fiberglass or gouge gel coat if you hit your boat or another while going too fast.

The least expensive variety. These boats do not have transoms. Even without a transom, they do have a bracket for a small outboard.

Advantages: lightweight, cheap, compact when deflated. Disadvantages: Small, low carrying capacity. Easily punctured if beached. Do not track well rowing or powering.

Soft Bottoms

Soft bottom dinghies will have a transom to take an engine and a floor. Under the floor, there is an inflatable keel to help the boat track through the water, but some may be flat and will not steer well. Lighter soft bottoms still have decent cargo capacities, and often more than a comparable length RIB as the boat is lighter. However, they cannot take the same horsepower engine so they will be slower.

Some models have slats, boards or panels for a floor over the keel tube. The hard floor is the simplest to maintain but doesn't break down for storage.

Inflatable floors are another choice for soft-bottoms; they're lighter, and you can roll the boat up without removing the floor. An inflatable floor can get punctured and must be inflated to a very high pressure to maintain stiffness.

A roll-up inflatable will have a soft bottom and inflatable keel, with a segmented, hard floor installed. The boat rolls for storage, either for passages or the offseason. From my experience owning one, getting it to roll to a neat package for a weekend trip is not as easy as you'd think.

Advantages: Lighter than RIBs, can compact when packed properly. Can plane in some conditions. Intermediate pricing compared to RIBs. Disadvantages: Floor and bottom puncture easily on rocks and sharp shells. Must be maintained at peak inflation for good operation (don't let the floor and keel get soft!).

Rigid Inflatable Boats (RIB)

The RIB has become the de facto choice for most serious cruisers. They are also popular with coastal sailors and weekenders because they are comfortable, dry, plane easily, and can be beached with little risk to the boat. They have great payload for their size and are near impossible to tip. The rigid hull allows for higher horsepower engines and greater speeds.

Since they can not be deflated and packed, the RIB is more popular on larger boats. Davits help with an always inflated boat, though they are often stored without the engine ahead of the mast, lashed upside down to the deck. Towing is a good option for shorter trips in mild conditions if you remove the engine, but is not appropriate for offshore trips.

They typically build RIB hulls from fiberglass or aluminum. Aluminum is lighter and stronger, but more expensive. Larger RIBS will have a floor for comfort, which may be sealed into a chamber or double floor on fiberglass boats. Most aluminum RIBs end the floor before the transom instead of creating a second sealed compartment.

Advantages: With a rigid hull, these boats are quicker and easier to handle. They're also rugged if beached, can plane quickly, and have great stability. Disadvantages: The heaviest of the inflatables, and the most expensive. Can't be folded up or put away, so storage and handling is more challenging.

Tube Size, Cloth Choices, and Chambers

When picking an inflatable, the tube size , cloth used in construction, and the chamber layout of the tubes is an important consideration.

For tube size, the larger the tube, the more comfortable the ride. Large tube dinghies are more comfortable to sit on, but the larger tubes also deflect more water away from the inside of the boat in splashy conditions with spray. A larger tube may have more drag and may have less interior volume for gear and people.

Two cloth materials are used in construction - PVC (polyvinyl chloride) or Hypalon, a synthetic rubber. PVC is less expensive but subject to quicker ultraviolet degradation from sunlight. Sailors in tropical climes prefer Hypalon since it lasts longer. Most seasonal sailors in more temperate climes get better life from PVC, though it still doesn't last as long as Hypalon. Dinghy chaps will extend the life of either cloth.

Finally, make sure your dinghy has at least two air chambers in the tubes, though three is better. You don't want one tube because if it punctures you have little reserve buoyancy. Over three chambers makes sense only in much larger boats than the typical cruising tender.

Inflatable Pros

• Very stable and easy to get in and out of and work on.
• High cargo capacities, up to double similar sized hard dinghies.
• Most have good performance under power.
• Won't damage or get damaged by fiberglass boats on impact.

Inflatable Cons

• Tubes can get punctured and will degrade in sunlight. Can develop hard to find and fix leaks.
• Soft bottoms are tricky to beach on anything but soft sand.
• There aren't many very low budget options.
• They row poorly.

Inflatable Examples

These are representative boats from a few manufacturers. Each one has product ranges covering almost all the inflatable types mentioned above, though not everyone makes a soft tail.

• Achilles LT Series - Soft tail dinghy with oars and an engine mount for up to 3Hp. Check it here.
• Zodiac Cadet - Soft bottom hull with several options for rolling or rigid floor. Check it here.
• West Marine PHP-275 Performance Air Floor - Lightweight air-floored PVC boat with a soft bottom and decent cargo capacity. Check it here.
• Highfield CL310 - Aluminum hulled RIB, available in Hypalon or PVC. Check it here.

The best call for you comes down to these questions:

• What is your budget? Don't forget to include an engine in that figure.
• How many adults and children are you moving?
• Do you want to row, power, and/or sail?
• Do you expect to anchor or moor some distance from shore landings?
• How often do you expect to use it?
• Do you plan other activities for your tender, like watersports, exploring distant locations, fishing, or sailing?
• How big is your primary pleasure craft? Do you have room to store a boat on board or install a storage system like davits?
• What type of waters do you sail? Inshore and protected, or offshore in larger waves?

These are questions only you can answer. A fifty-foot boat with a family of five will want a sturdy rib, but a solo sailor in a twenty-six-foot boat who likes to row for exercise will have a very different need. So pick what works for you and your boat.

If you're thinking about buying a dinghy, be sure to check out my article on How Much a Dinghy Costs (with 14 examples ). There, I'll discuss fourteen good dinghies, go over their properties, and list the price.

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Dinghy Guide 101

• Dinghies 101

Dinghies, also known as sailing dinghies or dinghy sailboats, are versatile and agile boats that have gained immense popularity among sailing enthusiasts worldwide. These small watercraft offer a thrilling experience on the water, making them a perfect choice for both beginners and seasoned sailors. In this comprehensive guide, we'll delve into the world of dinghies, exploring different types, their benefits, and everything you need to know about sailing these charming vessels.

What are Dinghies?

Dinghies are small, open boats that are usually carried or towed by larger vessels. They serve a variety of purposes, such as transportation between a larger boat and the shore, recreation, racing, and as training boats for novice sailors. Due to their compact size, they are easy to handle and maneuver, making them ideal for navigating narrow waterways and crowded harbors.

Types of Sailing Dinghies

1. dinghy sailboats.

Dinghy sailboats are the most traditional and widely used type of dinghies. They come in various designs and materials, such as fiberglass, wood, or aluminum. Dinghy sailboats use the wind as their primary means of propulsion, with a main sail and, in some cases, a jib. These boats offer an excellent opportunity for learning to sail due to their simplicity and responsiveness to wind shifts.

2. Inflatable Dinghies

Inflatable dinghies, as the name suggests, are made from inflatable materials like PVC or Hypalon. These dinghies are incredibly lightweight and easily portable, making them popular among boaters who need a dinghy that can be deflated and stowed when not in use. Inflatable dinghies are also known for their stability and durability, making them suitable for various water conditions.

3. Rigid Dinghies

Rigid dinghies, often constructed from materials like fiberglass or aluminum, offer a stable and reliable sailing experience. They are sturdy and can handle rough waters with ease. Rigid dinghies are commonly used for fishing and exploring shallow waters, making them a versatile option for those who love to venture into remote areas.

Advantages of Dinghy Sailing

1. versatility and maneuverability.

Dinghies are incredibly versatile boats that can navigate in waters where larger vessels cannot venture. Their maneuverability allows sailors to explore hidden coves, creeks, and inlets that are off-limits to bigger boats, providing an opportunity for a unique sailing experience.

2. Learning to Sail

Dinghy sailing is an excellent way to learn the art of sailing. The smaller size and direct control over sails and rudder help beginners grasp sailing techniques quickly. Aspiring sailors can gain confidence in their skills, which can be later applied to larger boats.

3. Accessibility and Portability

Dinghies are easy to transport, launch, and retrieve, making them accessible to sailing enthusiasts without access to large marinas. Inflatable dinghies, in particular, can be deflated, folded, and stored in a compact bag, enabling sailors to take their dinghies wherever they go.

Dinghies for Sale: Finding the Perfect Boat

When considering purchasing a dinghy, several factors need to be taken into account.

1. New vs. Used Dinghies

New dinghies offer the advantage of warranty and customization, while used dinghies may come at a more affordable price. Evaluate your budget and preferences before making a decision.

2. Factors to Consider Before Buying

Consider the boat's size, material, and intended use. If you plan to sail in calm waters, inflatable dinghies might be a suitable choice. For more adventurous journeys, rigid dinghies might be the better option.

3. Top Brands for Dinghy Sailboats

Some renowned brands in the dinghy sailboat market include XYZ Sailboats, ABC Marine, and QRS Boats. Researching reputable brands can help you find a high-quality dinghy that meets your requirements.

Inflatable Dinghies: The Ideal Choice for Some

Inflatable dinghies offer unique benefits that make them the ideal choice for certain boaters.

1. Benefits of Inflatable Dinghies

Inflatable dinghies are lightweight, making them easy to carry and transport. They are also stable on the water, which is especially advantageous for anglers and divers who need a steady platform.

2. Top Features to Look for

When choosing an inflatable dinghy, consider features like reinforced hulls, multiple air chambers for safety, and convenient accessories such as oars and air pumps.

Sailing Dinghies Maintenance and Care

Proper maintenance is crucial to ensure the longevity and performance of your dinghy.

1. Cleaning and Storage Tips

Rinse your dinghy with fresh water after each use to remove salt and debris. Store it in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to prevent damage to the material.

2. Common Repairs and Maintenance Tasks

Inspect your dinghy regularly for signs of wear and tear, and address any issues promptly. Common repairs may include patching inflatable dinghies or fixing minor cracks in rigid dinghies.

Read our top notch articles on topics such as sailing, sailing tips and destinations in our Magazine .

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How to Sail a Dinghy: A Beginner's Guide

Sailing a dinghy is a rewarding experience, but it requires some basic knowledge and skills.

1. Essential Sailing Techniques

Learn the fundamental sailing techniques, including tacking, jibing, and adjusting sails according to wind conditions.

2. Safety Measures and Precautions

Always wear a life jacket and familiarize yourself with safety procedures. Be aware of weather conditions and avoid sailing in rough waters or adverse weather.

Exploring the World of Dinghy Racing

Dinghy racing is a thrilling and competitive sport that attracts sailors of all ages.

1. Dinghy Racing Basics

Dinghy racing involves navigating a set course as quickly as possible, using tactical skills and wind knowledge to gain an advantage over competitors.

2. Joining Dinghy Racing Clubs

Many sailing clubs offer dinghy racing programs, providing an opportunity to socialize, improve sailing skills, and compete with like-minded individuals.

The Rising Popularity of Inflatable Sailing Catamarans

In recent years, inflatable sailing catamarans have gained popularity for their unique design and features.

1. Advantages of Inflatable Catamarans

Inflatable catamarans offer increased stability and a spacious deck, making them suitable for leisurely sailing and family outings.

2. Top Inflatable Catamaran Models

Notable inflatable catamaran models include the XYZ SailCat 2000 and ABC Marine CataraYacht. These innovative designs provide an exceptional sailing experience.

Dinghies offer a world of adventure and excitement for sailors of all skill levels. Whether you're exploring serene lakes or embarking on thrilling races, the versatility and accessibility of dinghies make them an ideal choice for water enthusiasts. With the information provided in this guide, you can confidently set sail on your journey to embrace the joy of dinghy sailing.

So what are you waiting for? Take a look at our range of charter boats and head to some of our favourite  sailing destinations.

I can help you choose the right boat for your holiday. Contact me.

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Faq for dinghies and sailboats, can i sail a dinghy alone, are inflatable dinghies safe for open waters, what is the average cost of a dinghy sailboat.

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most stable dinghy

• Thread starter Phil
• Start date Mar 30, 2007
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

Our boat is on a mooring and we have to use a dinghy. We have a small 8'plastic type that you have to board whith great care or you end up wet. I want to get a larger one 10'- 12' max. Now for my Question. which Is more stable? A flat boat (jon boat)type or "v" hull (fishing boat)type. I don't want the inflatable kind because it sits out all season. Large waves aren't usually a problem as we are on a large inland lake. I enjoy reading this forum every day. As always thanks for your opinions!  

jon boat for stability, in fresh water... get a 16' jon boat. you can ring it with fenders and swim noodles for saftey.  

Porta-Bote Since I bought mine I've never looked backwww.porta-bote.com  

Walker Bay... While I don't care for the standard Walker Bay Dingies because of similiar reasons you mentioned..if you look at thier model with the Infatable Hull Surround ( and for fun add a Sail Kit ) you'll be amazed at how stable it is..you can actually STAND ON THE RAIL and not topple the thing.Take a look at these and see what you think. David  

Steve Braverman

Dinghy I have an 8' fiberglass dinghy called a cathederal hull, kinda like a tri-hull. It's much more stable than a regular V hull, but harder to row. It has all the advantages of a hard dinghy. Not as stable as an inflatable, but much better than a Walker Bay. They seem very popular around here.  

Walker Bay We have the 8ft Walker Bay with the rib kit. It tows without resistance and I at 205 lbs can step from my transom onto the rib with both feet without tipping the dinghy or losing my balance. It is very stable and I am well satisified with it. I had a sunbrella cover made for it to use while towing or storage. In addition you can purchase a sail kit for it for further entertainment.  

Boat stability A dingy (any boat actually) will be stable if the amount of water you displace when you load it is displaced underneath you and not somewhere else.Consider the round bottom boat. When you step in amidships and not directly in the center the boat has to displace water and it has to roll under your foot to do that. This makes the boat "tippy". A square bottomed or inflatable can't even preform this maneuver as the water has to be displace by the premeter of the boat. The same argument can be made for entering the stern which, BTW, is the prefered way to board a small boat.SoooIf you don't want a tippy boat go for a more "boxy" configuration. I personally did not like the price on anything I saw as I wanted it all, sail-row-motor. I found a plans web site that offered everything from surf boards to 40' ketches. On it where plans for an 8' sailing pram that I absolutely love. Cost me about $250 for everything except the motor, which I have never needed since it rows so well. It is called the "8-Ball" and took me about a month of evenings to build. This was my first experience with boat building and I found it to be quite easy and of course you get bragging rights when you raft up.  

Robert Gainer

it’s a case of how the center of buoyancy moves Bill,I think it’s more a case of how the center of buoyancy moves as the boat tips. Righting moment is the boats weight times the distance from the center of buoyancy to the center of gravity. In a flat bottom boat the center of buoyancy moves outboard as you move outboard so she will tip but not flip. In a round bottom boat the center of buoyancy stays fixed because the hull rotates around it (it's round) and as you move outboard the boat doesn’t gain anything from the shape of the hull and becomes unstable. This is the way it works for all boats. Sailboats with a keel can be round bottomed while centerboard boats need harder bilges or flat bottoms to stay upright. In the first case the ballast moves outboard relative to the center of gravity as the boat tips and that makes the righting moment and in the second case the center of buoyancy moves outboard compared to the center of gravity to make the righting moment. In both cases its weight times distance to get the foot pounds of righting moment.All the best,Robert Gainer  

for stability I would suggest you look at a Carolina skiff, they make a 12' version. These are flat bottoms and very stable are durable as they are fiberglass type construction (see web site)seating can be configured how every you want and they are available with both bow and stern platform's. Can stay out year round. The flat bottom will be more stable then a v type or rounded bottom designs. Pull the drain plug and they are "self bailing" When I leave the boat for the week I pull the drain plug and never have to worry about bailing out the dinghy when I come back or have to worry about it getting swamped from a major rain storm. Pop the plug back in and less then two gallons of water in boat. I have one and think it is great. Just my opinion. Good Luck with your decision.  

Porta-Bote Alan,Thanks for your post on the porta-bote. Never heard of this before. Seems to be almost to good to be true...light weight, easy to stow, sturdy, stable, minimal maintenance. What's an approximate price on the 10'? I did send off for a brochure and pricing information. Any others have comments?  

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10 Best Small Sailboats (Under 20 Feet)

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

December 28, 2023

Compact, easy to trailer, simple to rig, easy to maintain and manage, and affordable, the best small boats all have one thing in common: they offer loads of fun while out there on the water.

So whether you're on a budget or just looking for something that can offer ultimate daytime rides without compromising on safety, aesthetic sensibilities, alternate propulsion, and speed, the best small sailboats under 20 feet should be the only way to go.

Let's be brutally honest here; not everyone needs a 30-foot sailboat to go sailing. They come with lots of features such as electronics, entertainment, refrigeration, bunks, a galley, and even a head. But do you really need all these features to go sailing? We don't think so.

All you need to go sailing is a hull, a mast, rudder, and, of course, a sail. And whether you refer to them as daysailers, trailerable sailboats , a weekender sailboat, or pocket cruisers, there's no better way to enjoy the thrills of coastal sailing than on small sailboats.

There are a wide range of small boats measuring less than 20 feet available in the market. These are hot products in the market given that they offer immense thrills out on the sea without the commitment required to cruise on a 30-footer. A small sailboat will not only give you the feel of every breeze but will also give you the chance to instantly sense every change in trim.

In this article, we'll highlight 10 best small sailboats under 20 feet . Most models in this list are time-tested, easy to rig, simple to sail, extremely fun, and perfect either for solo sailing or for sailing with friends and family. So if you've been looking for a list of some of the best small sailboats , you've come to the right place.

So without further ado, let's roll on.

Table of contents

{{boat-info="/boats/hunter-15"}}

The Marlow-Hunter 15 is not only easy to own since it's one of the most affordable small sailboats but also lots of fun to sail. This is a safe and versatile sailboat for everyone. Whether you're sailing with your family or as a greenhorn, you'll love the Hunter 15 thanks to its raised boom, high freeboard, and sturdy FRP construction.

With high sides, a comfortable wide beam, a contoured self-bailing cockpit, and fiberglass construction, the Hunter 15 is certainly designed with the novice sailor in mind. This is why you can do a lot with this boat without falling out, breaking it, or capsizing. Its contoured self-baiting cockpit will enable you to find a fast exit while its wide beam will keep it steady and stable no matter what jibes or weight shifts happen along the way.

This is a small sailboat that can hold up to four people. It's designed to give you a confident feeling and peace of mind even when sailing with kids. It's easy to trailer, easy to rig, and easy to launch. With a price tag of about $10k, the Hunter 15 is a fun, affordable, and versatile boat that is perfect for both seasoned sailors and novices. It's a low-maintenance sailboat that can be great for teaching kids a thing or two about sailing.

Catalina 16.5

{{boat-info="/boats/catalina-16-5"}}

Catalina Yachts are synonymous with bigger boats but they have some great and smaller boats too such as Catalina 16.5. This is one of the best small sailboats that are ideal for family outings given that it has a big and roomy cockpit, as well as a large storage locker. Designed with a hand-laminated fiberglass sloop, the Catalina 16.5 is versatile and is available in two designs: the centerboard model and the keel model.

The centerboard model is designed with a powerful sailplane that remains balanced as a result of the fiberglass centerboard, the stable hull form, and the rudder. It also comes with a tiller extension, adjustable hiking straps, and adjustable overhaul. It's important to note that these are standard equipment in the two models.

As far as the keel model is concerned, this is designed with a high aspect keel as the cast lead and is attached with stainless steel keel bolts, which makes this model perfect for mooring or docking whenever it's not in use. In essence, the centerboard model is perfect if you'll store it in a trailer while the keel model can remain at the dock.

All in all, the Catalina 16.5 is one of the best small sailboats that you can get your hands on for as low as $10,000. This is certainly a great example of exactly what a daysailer should be.

{{boat-info="/boats/hobie-16"}}

There's no list of small, trailerable, and fun sailboats that can be complete without the inclusion of the classic Hobie 16. This is a durable design that has been around and diligently graced various waters across the globe since its debut way back in 1969 in Southern California. In addition to being durable, the Hobie 16 is trailerable, great for speed, weighs only 320 pounds, great for four people, and more importantly, offers absolute fun.

With a remarkable figure of over 100,000 launched since its debut, it's easy to see that the Hobie 16 is highly popular. Part of this popularity comes from its asymmetric fiberglass-and-foam sandwiched hulls that include kick-up rudders. This is a great feature that allows it to sail up to the beach.

For about $12,000, the Hobie 16 will provide you with endless fun throughout the summer. It's equipped with a spinnaker, trailer, and douse kit. This is a high-speed sailboat that has a large trampoline to offer lots of space not just for your feet but also to hand off the double trapezes.

Montgomery 17

{{boat-info="/boats/montgomery-17"}}

Popularly known as the M-17, The Montgomery 17 was designed by Lyle C. Hess in conjunction with Jerry Montgomery in Ontario, California for Montgomery Boats. Designed either with keel or centerboard models, the M-17 is more stable than most boats of her size. This boat is small enough to be trailered but also capable of doing moderate offshore passages.

This small sailboat is designed with a masthead and toe rail that can fit most foresails. It also has enough space for two thanks to its cuddly cabin, which offers a sitting headroom, a portable toilet, a pair of bunks, a DC power, and optional shore, and a proper amount of storage. That's not all; you can easily raise the deck-stepped mast using a four-part tackle.

In terms of performance, the M-17 is one of the giant-killers out there. This is a small sailboat that will excel in the extremes and make its way past larger boats such as the Catalina 22. It glides along beautifully and is a dog in light air, though it won't sail against a 25-knot wind, which can be frustrating. Other than that, the Montgomery 17 is a great small sailboat that can be yours for about $14,000.

Norseboat 17.5

{{boat-info="/boats/norseboat-17-5"}}

As a versatile daysailer, Norseboat 17.5 follows a simple concept of seaworthiness and high-performance. This small sailboat perfectly combines both contemporary construction and traditional aesthetics. Imagine a sailboat that calls itself the "Swiss Army Knife of Boats!" Well, this is a boat that can sail and row equally well.

Whether you're stepping down from a larger cruiser or stepping up from a sea kayak, the unique Norseboat 17.5 is balanced, attractive, and salty. It has curvaceous wishbone gaff, it is saucy, and has a stubby bow-sprit that makes it attractive to the eyes. In addition to her beauty, the Norseboat 17.5 offers an energy-pinching challenge, is self-sufficient, and offers more than what you're used to.

This is a small, lightweight, low-maintenance sailboat that offers a ticket to both sailing and rowing adventures all at the same time. At about 400 pounds, it's very portable and highly convenient. Its mainsails may look small but you'll be surprised at how the boat is responsive to it. With a $12,500 price tag, this is a good small sailboat that offers you the versatility to either row or sail.

{{boat-info="/boats/sage-marine-sage-17"}}

If you've been looking for a pocket cruiser that inspires confidence, especially in shoal water, look no further than the Sage 17. Designed by Jerry Montgomery in 2009, the Sage 17 is stable and should heel to 10 degrees while stiffening up. And because you want to feel secure while sailing, stability is an integral feature of the Sage 17.

This is a sailboat that will remain solid and stable no matter which part of the boat you stand on. Its cabin roof and the balsa-cored carbon-fiber deck are so strong that the mast doesn't require any form of compression post. The self-draining cockpit is long enough and capable of sleeping at 6 feet 6 inches.

The Sage 17 may be expensive at $25k but is a true sea warrior that's worth look at. This is a boat that will not only serve you right but will also turn heads at the marina.    

{{boat-info="/boats/laserperformance-laser-sb3"}}

Having been chosen as the overall boat of the year for 2008 by the Sailing World Magazine, the Laser SB3 is one of the coolest boats you'll ever encounter. When sailing upwind, this boat will lock into the groove while its absolute simplicity is legendary. In terms of downwind sailing, having this boat will be a dream come true while it remains incredibly stable even at extraordinary speed.

Since its debut in 2004, the Laser SB3 has surged in terms of popularity thanks to the fact that it's designed to put all the controls at your fingertips. In addition to a lightweight mast, its T- bulb keel can be hauled and launched painlessly. For about $18,000, the Laser SB3 ushers you into the world of sports sailing and what it feels to own and use a sports boat.

{{boat-info="/boats/fareast-18"}}

As a manufacturer, Fareast is a Chinese boat manufacturer that has been around for less than two decades. But even with that, the Fareast 18 remains a very capable cruiser-racer that will take your sailing to the next level. In addition to its good looks, this boat comes with a retractable keel with ballast bulb, a powerful rig, and an enclosed cabin.

Its narrow design with a closed stern may be rare in sailboats of this size, but that's not a problem for the Fareast 18. This design not only emphasizes speed but also makes it a lot easier to maintain this boat. Perfect for about 6 people, this boat punches above its weight. It's, however, designed to be rigged and launched by one person.

This is a relatively affordable boat. It's agile, safe, well-thought-out, well built, and very sporty.

{{boat-info="/boats/chuck-paine-paine-14"}}

If you're in the market looking for a small sailboat that offers contemporary performance with classic beauty, the Paine 14 should be your ideal option. Named after its famous designer, Chuck Paine, this boat is intentionally designed after the classic Herreshoff 12.5 both in terms of dimensions and features.

This is a lightweight design that brings forth modern fin keel and spade rudder, which makes it agile, stable, and faster. The Paine 14 is built using cold-molded wood or west epoxy. It has varnished gunnels and transoms to give it an old-time charm. To make it somehow modern, this boat is designed with a carbon mast and a modern way to attach sails so that it's ready to sail in minutes.

You can rest easy knowing that the Paine 14 will not only serve you well but will turn heads while out there.

{{boat-info="/boats/wd-schock-lido-14"}}

Many sailors will attest that their first sailing outing was in a Lido 14. This is a classic sailboat that has been around for over four decades and still proves to be a perfect match to modern small boats, especially for those still learning the ropes of sailing.

With seating for six people, the Lido 14 can be perfect for solo sailing , single-handed sailing, or if you're planning for shorthanded sailing. While new Lido 14 boats are no longer available, go for a functional used Lido 14 and you'll never regret this decision. It will serve you well and your kids will probably fall in love with sailing if Lido 14 becomes their main vessel during weekends or long summer holidays.

Bottom Line

There you have it; these are some of the best small sailboats you can go for. While there are endless small sailboats in the market, the above-described sailboat will serve you right and make you enjoy the wind.

Choose the perfect sailboat, invest in it, and go out there and have some good fun!

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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Most stable dinghy hull form

Discussion in ' Boat Design ' started by Owly , Jan 18, 2017 .

Owly Senior Member

I'm planning to build an 8' sailing dinghy / tender, that will be a 2 piece nesting boat. I want this to be as stable as possible for use in rough water, and serious sailing. Something I would not be afraid to take out into the ocean to sail to the next bay or a nearby island to explore, a tall order for an 8' dinghy. I've concluded so far that the shallow V bottom is probably the best all around, though a flat bottom should offer a bit more stability. I'd like to incorporate removable outboard inflatable floatation tubes for additional stability when heeled over, similar to what Walker Bay offers, though not necessarily all the way to the bow....... though I haven't gotten far on the subject of how to build them. Weight of course limits what I can get away with doing without building as "tank". For capacity, it will be a double transom pram design, and it will probably be built using stitch and glue. A centerboard is a nuisance, but so is a center bulkhead for splitting the boat in two, I'll probably split it forward of center significantly instead of shooting for the shortest possible length. I'll also move the centerboard case forward of typical, as I plan to build a simple light junk rig rather than the typical sprit rig for reasons of my own, and the sail will have about 15% forward of the mast. I'd be interested in any constructive thoughts and ideas on this. I'm looking at the B&B catspaw 8 as the "foundation" / starting point, as it pretty much meets my criteria. There are simpler boats, flat bottom prams, and prettier boats with double chines or plywood lapstrake and lovely curves, but function takes priority over form here, and I don't want the pounding of a flat bottom. The net offers many dinghy designs, some of them even free plans, but good well supported plans can be a real benefit. H.W.  

Richard Woods Woods Designs

8ft is pretty small for an adult, do you really need it nesting? I assume you have seen lots of videos of Optimists sailing in rough weather. Keep the water out and you can sail anything anywhere I started sailing in a Poole AB, check it out. More seaworthy than an Optimist as it has built in buoyancy I assume you have also seen my nesting 2 sheet ply Duo dinghy. It also has inflatable collars but I fitted them near the bows, not transom, so that they made a bumper when coming alongside, deflected more spray and added more buoyancy and thus stability forward, where the boat is narrowest Richard Woods of Woods Designs www.sailingcatamarans.com  

upchurchmr Senior Member

A catamaran.  

Richard: This will also be a tender, and while 8' will fit on the foredeck, it pretty much fills it up. The extra few feet will make a difference. I know 8' is marginal for a sailing dinghy, about as small as you can go realistically. My plan is to build in some flotation of course, and I hope to build that is using 3/16 plywood creating some narrow side deck and foredeck area in the process which should also help in keeping water out when heeled. Again, weight is a major consideration, and I may abandon this idea in favor of the tubes. I'll look at the Poole AB. I have looked at your Duo....... very much like what I want to build, but larger. Blunt the bow on the duo and you have almost exactly the same thing I'm looking at. I don't expect an optimal sailor. Anything like this is a compromise, and everybody has to choose the directions in which to compromise. This will be a tender for a pretty small yacht (31'). Do you purchase or build your flotation tubes? H.W. Richard Woods said: ↑ 8ft is pretty small for an adult, do you really need it nesting? I assume you have seen lots of videos of Optimists sailing in rough weather. Keep the water out and you can sail anything anywhere I started sailing in a Poole AB, check it out. More seaworthy than an Optimist as it has built in buoyancy I assume you have also seen my nesting 2 sheet ply Duo dinghy. It also has inflatable collars but I fitted them near the bows, not transom, so that they made a bumper when coming alongside, deflected more spray and added more buoyancy and thus stability forward, where the boat is narrowest Richard Woods of Woods Designs www.sailingcatamarans.com Click to expand...

a photo Richard Here's a photo of pretty much what I would like to end up except obviously it won't nest. I believe it is a build of the Poole AB. With narrower side decks, no rear transom deck, and a split forward of center, along with a bit different shape, it could be made to nest. It's obviously just a rough idea....... Here's a link to the Cat's Paw 8 which is quite similar, and which I'm looking at using for my starting point. The Poole AB does not seem to be readily available as a set of plans. I'm about to the stage of trying to develop some scale models at an inch to the foot, and ultimately at about 25% scale just to get a feel for it. It's winter here, and a good time for that kind of project (scale model) H.W. http://bandbyachtdesigns.com/sail/catspaw/ EDIT: The image I tried to include is protected, so here's the link to it: http://www.harbourviewphotography.com/keyword/ab cap/i-dt9Z5Sb/A H.W.  

upchurchmr said: ↑ A catamaran. Click to expand...

You can get plans for the AB if you check with the class at Parkstone. The tubes I bought for my first Duo were inflatable pvc boat rollers, now we have "dinghy dogs" which are tapered hypalon. About the same price as Walker Bay tubes, which you can buy separately BTW, not sure how you attach them to a wood boat though my other design is the 8ft Crayfish, a better load carrier and more stable than a Duo, but it uses 2 1/2 sheets ply RW  

Richard Woods said: ↑ You can get plans for the AB if you check with the class at Parkstone. The tubes I bought for my first Duo were inflatable pvc boat rollers, now we have "dinghy dogs" which are tapered hypalon. About the same price as Walker Bay tubes, which you can buy separately BTW, not sure how you attach them to a wood boat though my other design is the 8ft Crayfish, a better load carrier and more stable than a Duo, but it uses 2 1/2 sheets ply RW Click to expand...

Thank you for purchasing the Crayfish plans. As my website says, they are very basic, hence the low price. The Duo plans are far more comprehensive, 23 sheets of drawings and instructions, but then I charge more. So you get what you pay for. Yes a 2in wood or aluminium tube is fine. As you can see from my Facebook page I use a 2 piece windsurfer mast on my Duo. I measured the deflection and posted the result, so you can use that as a guide for a stiff mast https://www.facebook.com/richard.woods.designs# I have never understood why everyone makes the bottom panels in two pieces, not one, as I do on the Crayfish. It is so much easier to line up, and of course uses less glass/epoxy We used 1in webbing straps to hold our tubes in place, hopefully less chafe and looks neater. I really meant I don't know how to make the slide in (presumably) Walker Bay system in wood, lashings are an obvious but not an elegant answer. Richard Woods of Woods Designs www.sailingcatamarans.com  

Richard: I wasn't complaining about the plans, I'm sorry if it came across that way. Interestingly the bottom, sides, bow and stern transoms, all seem to be in scale.... what scale I don't know, so I got out the scissors, and cut them up, copying them to heavy tag board / card stock this morning, and put together a really basic scale model just using tape to hold it together, as I was in the process of brewing a special beer for the occasion called Black Friday Pale Ale. I didn't put the deck on or the seats in, as that drawing was obviously a different scale, but I did make a gunnel spreader to scale. I plan to build a serious model at 20 cm per meter (20% scale) our of better materials before getting serious about building the real thing. As far as nylon straps versus actual rope lashings, it's kind of a non-issue. It would be nice to be able to custom build the float tubes and simply incorporate fastenings into them, but apparently nobody home builds such things though one would think with the proper rubberized fabric and glue it would be more than possible. H.W. Richard Woods said: ↑ Thank you for purchasing the Crayfish plans. As my website says, they are very basic, hence the low price. The Duo plans are far more comprehensive, 23 sheets of drawings and instructions, but then I charge more. So you get what you pay for. Yes a 2in wood or aluminium tube is fine. As you can see from my Facebook page I use a 2 piece windsurfer mast on my Duo. I measured the deflection and posted the result, so you can use that as a guide for a stiff mast https://www.facebook.com/richard.woods.designs# I have never understood why everyone makes the bottom panels in two pieces, not one, as I do on the Crayfish. It is so much easier to lie up, and of course uses less glass/epoxy We used 1in webbing straps to hold our tubes in place, hopefully less chafe and looks neater. I really meant I don't know how to make the slide in (presumably) Walker Bay system in wood, lashings are an obvious but not an elegant answer. Richard Woods of Woods Designs www.sailingcatamarans.com Click to expand...

portacruise Senior Member

"Most stable dingy form" =Catamarans. There a number of inflatable sailing catamarans (since you will be attaching side float tubes anyway) that turn up on a search that are self bailing, collapse to smaller and weigh much less than rigid nestling boats. Here are some other approaches at this shop, which you might be able to copy depending on your skills: https://nestawayboats.com/shop/dinghygo-sailing-inflatables/ The smallest inflatable sailing dingy listed holds 3 and is a little over 7', some of these have good reviews. Nautiraid and portabote collapse almost flat. PC  

portacruise said: ↑ "Most stable dingy form" =Catamarans. There a number of inflatable sailing catamarans (since you will be attaching side float tubes anyway) that turn up on a search that are self bailing, collapse to smaller and weigh much less than rigid nestling boats. Here are some other approaches at this shop, which you might be able to copy depending on your skills: https://nestawayboats.com/shop/dinghygo-sailing-inflatables/ The smallest inflatable sailing dingy listed holds 3 and is a little over 7', some of these have good reviews. Nautiraid and portabote collapse almost flat. PC Click to expand...

Richard Woods said: ↑ Thank you for purchasing the Crayfish plans. As my website says, they are very basic, hence the low price. The Duo plans are far more comprehensive, 23 sheets of drawings and instructions, but then I charge more. So you get what you pay for. Yes a 2in wood or aluminium tube is fine. As you can see from my Facebook page I use a 2 piece windsurfer mast on my Duo. I measured the deflection and posted the result, so you can use that as a guide for a stiff mast https://www.facebook.com/richard.woods.designs# I have never understood why everyone makes the bottom panels in two pieces, not one, as I do on the Crayfish. It is so much easier to line up, and of course uses less glass/epoxy We used 1in webbing straps to hold our tubes in place, hopefully less chafe and looks neater. I really meant I don't know how to make the slide in (presumably) Walker Bay system in wood, lashings are an obvious but not an elegant answer. Richard Woods of Woods Designs www.sailingcatamarans.com Click to expand...

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I would add a skeg aft on a Crayfish to aid directional stability when rowing. And I usually put wood runners underneath to protect the hull But the whole idea is to have a lightweight boat that one person can carry up the beach. Too heavy and you have to drag it, which means you need to make it heavy with extra reinforcing, which means... the usual spiral. My first Crayfish (built with 2mm ply sides, 4mm bottom) blew away up the beach and was wrecked. But it did carry 3 adults and we used it as a liveaboard tender for 4 years before then RW  

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The Most Stable Boat Hull Designs

Boats are an essen­tial part of life, whether you use them as a recre­ation­al pas­time or a mode of trans­porta­tion. Hav­ing a boat that is sta­ble and secure is essen­tial to a safe and enjoy­able time spent on the water. The hull design is the most impor­tant fac­tor when con­sid­er­ing the sta­bil­i­ty of a boat, so it is impor­tant to under­stand the var­i­ous designs and how they affect sta­bil­i­ty.

Table of Con­tents

The most sta­ble boat hull designs are gen­er­al­ly those with a wide beam and a deep V‑shaped hull. Wide beams help to cre­ate a large base of sta­bil­i­ty, while the V‑shaped hull helps to reduce drag and pro­vide a smooth ride in chop­py waters. Cata­ma­rans, pon­toon boats, and cen­ter con­sole boats are all exam­ples of pop­u­lar hull designs that are known for their sta­bil­i­ty.

Flat Bot­tom Hull: Flat bot­tom hulls are known for their excep­tion­al sta­bil­i­ty, espe­cial­ly in calm and shal­low waters. They have a large sur­face area in con­tact with the water, pro­vid­ing excel­lent sta­bil­i­ty at rest and while under­way. Flat bot­tom hulls are com­mon­ly used in jon boats, skiffs, and some small fish­ing boats.

Pon­toon Hull: Pon­toon boats fea­ture a mul­ti-hull design with two or more pon­toons, pro­vid­ing excel­lent sta­bil­i­ty on the water. The wide and buoy­ant pon­toons offer sta­bil­i­ty even in rough con­di­tions, mak­ing pon­toon boats a pop­u­lar choice for leisure­ly cruis­ing, fish­ing, and enter­tain­ing.

Cata­ma­ran Hull: Cata­ma­ran hulls con­sist of two par­al­lel hulls con­nect­ed by a deck, pro­vid­ing excel­lent sta­bil­i­ty and load-car­ry­ing capac­i­ty. Cata­ma­rans are known for their sta­bil­i­ty in rough seas and high speeds, mak­ing them a pre­ferred choice for off­shore cruis­ing and rac­ing.

Cathe­dral Hull: Cathe­dral hulls have a V‑shaped bot­tom with mul­ti­ple hulls or spon­sons extend­ing from the cen­ter­line. This design pro­vides excel­lent sta­bil­i­ty and maneu­ver­abil­i­ty, mak­ing it suit­able for var­i­ous water activ­i­ties, includ­ing fish­ing, water ski­ing, and cruis­ing.

Deep‑V Hull: Deep‑V hulls fea­ture a V‑shaped bot­tom that extends from bow to stern, offer­ing excel­lent sta­bil­i­ty and per­for­mance in rough water con­di­tions. This hull design is com­mon­ly found in off­shore fish­ing boats and high-speed power­boats.

Oth­er boat hull designs that are known for their sta­bil­i­ty include the modified‑V hull, the semi-dis­place­ment hull, the round-bot­tom hull, and the full-keel hull. Modified‑V hulls are a com­bi­na­tion of a V‑hull and a flat­ter bot­tom, which helps them remain sta­ble in both calm and chop­py waters. Semi-dis­place­ment hulls are designed to cut through the water while main­tain­ing good sta­bil­i­ty. Round-bot­tom hulls are usu­al­ly used on small­er boats and are designed to pro­vide a smooth ride in chop­py waters.

Hull Shapes

The shape of a boat’s hull is the most impor­tant fac­tor in deter­min­ing its sta­bil­i­ty. There are four basic hull shapes: flat-bot­tom, round-bot­tom, semi‑V, and V‑hull. Each of these hull shapes has its own advan­tages and dis­ad­van­tages.

Flat-Bottom Hulls

Flat-bot­tom hulls are the sim­plest and eas­i­est to con­struct, mak­ing them the most com­mon in small boats. They are also the most sta­ble in calm water, as they have a low cen­ter of grav­i­ty and a wide bot­tom that increas­es their sta­bil­i­ty. How­ev­er, flat-bot­tom hulls are not suit­able for larg­er boats or in chop­py water, as their lack of shape and their wide bot­tom makes them unsta­ble.

Round-Bottom Hulls

Round-bot­tom hulls are more curved than flat-bot­tom hulls, which helps them to slice through waves more eas­i­ly and increas­es their sta­bil­i­ty in chop­py water. They also have a high­er cen­ter of grav­i­ty, mak­ing them less sta­ble in calm water. They are often used on larg­er boats, as they are more suit­able for deep-water sail­ing.

Semi‑V Hulls

Semi‑V hulls are a com­bi­na­tion of the flat-bot­tom and round-bot­tom hulls. They have a flat bot­tom with a slight curve to the sides, which helps them to per­form bet­ter in chop­py water. They have a mod­er­ate cen­ter of grav­i­ty, mak­ing them more sta­ble than round-bot­tom hulls in calm water, but less sta­ble than flat-bot­tom hulls.

V‑hulls are the most com­plex of the four hull shapes. They have sharp curves to the sides, which help them to bet­ter slice through waves and increase their sta­bil­i­ty in chop­py water. They also have a high­er cen­ter of grav­i­ty, mak­ing them less sta­ble in calm water. V‑hulls are often used on larg­er boats, as they are bet­ter suit­ed for deep-water sail­ing.

Hull Materials

The mate­r­i­al used to con­struct a boat’s hull also plays a role in its sta­bil­i­ty. Dif­fer­ent mate­ri­als can affect a boat’s weight dis­tri­b­u­tion, which in turn affects its sta­bil­i­ty. The most com­mon mate­ri­als used to con­struct boat hulls are wood, fiber­glass, and alu­minum.

Wood hulls are the most tra­di­tion­al and have been used for cen­turies. They are light­weight and have excel­lent sta­bil­i­ty in calm water, but are not suit­able for deep-water sail­ing. Wood hulls also require more main­te­nance than oth­er mate­ri­als, as they can eas­i­ly be dam­aged by water and need to be treat­ed reg­u­lar­ly.

Fiberglass Hulls

Fiber­glass hulls are the most com­mon mate­r­i­al used in mod­ern boats. They are light­weight and durable, mak­ing them suit­able for both calm and chop­py waters. They are also rel­a­tive­ly easy to main­tain, as they do not require as much treat­ment as wood hulls. If You want to know more check our guide on how to repair fiber­glass boat hull from out­side .

Aluminum Hulls

Alu­minum hulls are the strongest and most durable of the three mate­ri­als. They are also the heav­i­est, which makes them less suit­able for deep-water sail­ing. How­ev­er, they are extreme­ly sta­ble in calm waters and require lit­tle main­te­nance.

Design Considerations

When choos­ing a boat hull design, it is impor­tant to con­sid­er the type of boat and its intend­ed use. If the boat is intend­ed for deep-water sail­ing, then a V‑hull or round-bot­tom hull may be the best option. If the boat is for use in calm waters, then a flat-bot­tom or semi‑V hull would be more suit­able. It is also impor­tant to con­sid­er the type of mate­r­i­al used to con­struct the hull, as each mate­r­i­al has its own advan­tages and dis­ad­van­tages.

Safety Features

Even the most sta­ble boat hull design can be made more secure with the addi­tion of safe­ty fea­tures. These can include handrails, life jack­ets, and even an anchor. Handrails pro­vide a secure grip on the boat and can help to pre­vent falls over­board. Life jack­ets are essen­tial for any boat, as they pro­vide addi­tion­al buoy­an­cy in the event of a fall over­board. An anchor can be used to secure the boat to the shore or sea floor, fur­ther increas­ing the safe­ty of the pas­sen­gers.

Maintenance

Reg­u­lar main­te­nance is essen­tial to ensure a boat’s hull remains in good con­di­tion. This includes check­ing and lubri­cat­ing the hull reg­u­lar­ly, inspect­ing for any signs of cor­ro­sion or dam­age, and clean­ing the hull reg­u­lar­ly . Prop­er main­te­nance will help to ensure the hull remains sta­ble and secure for years to come.

The cost of a boat hull design can vary depend­ing on the mate­ri­als and labor involved. Wood hulls are the cheap­est option, while fiber­glass and alu­minum hulls can be more expen­sive. It is impor­tant to con­sid­er the cost of the hull design when mak­ing a pur­chase, as a more expen­sive design may offer more sta­bil­i­ty and secu­ri­ty.

What is the most efficient boat hull design?

The most effi­cient boat hull design is one which is designed to min­i­mize drag and max­i­mize lift while still pro­vid­ing good sta­bil­i­ty and maneu­ver­abil­i­ty. This usu­al­ly requires a com­bi­na­tion of fac­tors such as the shape of the hull, the size and weight of the boat, the type of mate­ri­als used, and the place­ment of appendages such as keels and skegs.

It also takes into account the type of water­craft it is intend­ed for and the con­di­tions in which it will be used. For exam­ple, a boat designed for rough waters may need a dif­fer­ent type of hull than one designed for use in calm waters. Oth­er con­sid­er­a­tions include the type of propul­sion sys­tem being used and the desired speed of the boat. To achieve the most effi­cient design, the boat design­er must use their knowl­edge of flu­id dynam­ics and mate­ri­als sci­ence to cre­ate the best pos­si­ble com­bi­na­tion of these ele­ments.

What is the most stable boat hull design in rough water?

The most sta­ble boat hull design in rough water is a deep - V hull . This design fea­tures a sharp angle at the bow , which slices through the waves , and a shal­low angle at the stern , which pro­vides more lift and helps to reduce the amount of water that spl ash­es up against the hull . This com­bi­na­tion of a sharp bow and shal­low stern makes for a boat hull that is less like­ly to be affect­ed by cho ppy waters and that is more sta­ble in rough con­di­tions .

It is also impor­tant to con­sid­er the cost of insur­ing a boat. Insur­ance can help to cov­er the cost of any repairs or replace­ments that may be nec­es­sary, which can be cost­ly. Before pur­chas­ing a boat, it is wise to research the var­i­ous insur­ance poli­cies avail­able to ensure you are ade­quate­ly cov­ered.

What is the most stable boat hull design?

The most sta­ble boat hull designs include flat-bot­tomed hulls, pon­toon hulls, and cathe­dral hulls. These designs offer excel­lent sta­bil­i­ty in dif­fer­ent water con­di­tions.

Are deep‑V hulls more stable in rough waters?

Yes, deep‑V hulls are known for their sta­bil­i­ty in rough waters. The V‑shaped hull allows the boat to cut through waves, pro­vid­ing a smoother ride and increased sta­bil­i­ty.

Are pontoon boats stable?

Yes, pon­toon boats are known for their excep­tion­al sta­bil­i­ty. The wide and buoy­ant pon­toons offer excel­lent sta­bil­i­ty, mak­ing pon­toon boats pop­u­lar for leisure­ly cruis­es and oth­er on-water activ­i­ties.

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• Articles and Guides

11 Best Small Sailboat Brands: How to Choose Your Next Daysailer or Pocket Cruiser

12th oct 2023 by samantha wilson.

Sailing is a relaxing, invigorating pastime that allows you to harness wind and waves in a unique and historic way without requiring a 50-foot yacht to enjoy what’s special about the experience. In fact, small sailboats allow a delightful back-to-basics experience that often gets lost on larger, systems-heavy sailboats.

On a small sailboat you can connect with the sea, feeling the boat move beneath you. The boat is typically easy to rig, simple to sail, and can even be sailed solo. Small sailboats give you the freedom to trailer your or car-top your boat and go anywhere, and they’re perfect for learning the nuances of sailing. There are many excellent brands and models of small sailboat, each with their own appeal, and here we narrow down some of our favorite in the daysailer and pocket cruiser categories under 30 feet. 

Difference Between a Daysailer and a Pocket Cruiser

While there are many different types of sailboat on the market and there is no single definition of either a daysailer or a pocket cruiser, they are used in a particular way, as the names imply. The term daysailer covers a huge array of sailboats, smaller and sometimes larger, and is generally defined as any day boat used for local sailing, with a simple rig, and easy to get underway. A pocket cruiser typically offers a cabin and head, and adequate accommodations for an overnight stay and sometimes longer cruises. Having said that, there is a large overlap between the two in many instances, so the lines may become blurred. 

What Size is a Small Sailboat?

Small is a relative term of course, but in general—and for the purposes of this article—a small sailboat is one that could be sailed by a small crew, often with one or two people aboard. It will have a simple rig and be trailerable, and it might be either a daysailer or pocket-cruiser style vessel as above. Within those categories, there are many models and styles, but when it comes to length we consider a sailboat as small when it’s under 30 feet in overall length. 

The Best Sailboats Under 30 Feet

Pocket cruiser: Beneteau First 27.  The Beneteau First 27 is a modern example of a pocket cruiser, earning Cruising World ’s Boat of the Year award in the Pocket Cruiser category in 2022. With space for up to six people accommodated in a separated bow-cabin and open saloon, it offers families the chance to go farther, explore more, and cruise in comfort. There is a galley with freshwater and a head, adding to the interior home comforts. The sailboat itself is modern, fast, and stable, designed by Sam Manuard, and has been designed to be incredibly safe and almost unsinkable thanks to its three watertight chambers. The handling is also refreshingly intuitive, with a well-designed cockpit, simple deck controls, and double winches allowing it to be sailed solo, by two people, or a small crew. 

Photo credit: Beneteau

Daysailer: Alerion 28.  You’ll certainly turn heads cruising along in an Alerion 28, a daysailer whose forerunner by the same name was designed by Nathanael Herreshoff in 1912 and then updated with a modern underbody for fiberglass production by Carl Schumacher in the late 1980s. This pretty daysailer manages to combine a traditional silhouette and classic feel, with very modern engineering creating an excellent package. Over 470 of these sailboats were built and sold in the past 30 years, making it one of the most popular modern daysailers on the water. With a small cabin and saloon, complete with miniature galley area, it offers respite from the sun or wind and the option for a night aboard. The cockpit offers a beautiful sailing experience, with plenty of space for the whole family. 

Photo credit: Alerion Yachts

The Best Sailboats Under 25 Feet

Pocket cruiser: Cornish Crabber 24.  British manufacturer Cornish Crabber has been producing beautiful, traditional style small sailboats for decades, ensuring they honor their heritage both in the construction style and appearance of their boats. The Cornish Crabber 24 is the most iconic of their range and dates back to the 1980s. It offers a simple yet surprisingly spacious interior layout with cabin, galley, and head, and a good sized cockpit, as well as seating for up to six people. It’s the perfect family sailboat, with clever use of storage as well as just under 5000 pounds of displacement providing stability and easy tacking. Aesthetically the 24 is simply beautiful, with a traditional silhouette (combined with modern engineering), finished in hardwood trims. 

Photo credit: Cornish Crabber

Daysailer: Catalina 22 Capri.  Catalina sailboats need little introduction, and are one of the world’s best-known, most-respected brands building small sailboats. The Catalina 22 Capri (also available in a sport model) is a great example of what Catalina does so well. While we’ve classified it as a daysailer, it could easily cross into the pocket cruiser category, as it offers excellent sailing performance in almost all conditions as well as having a small cabin, galley, and head. Loved for its safety, stability, ease of handling and simple maintenance, it makes for a good first family boat for getting out onto the bay or lake. 

Photo credit: Catalina

The Best Sailboats Under 20 Feet

Pocket cruiser: CapeCutter 19.  This is another model that combines the beauty of the traditional silhouettes with modern-day advancements. The design originates from the classic gaff cutter work boats, but today offers excellent performance—in fact it’s one of the fastest small gaffers in the world. The interior is cleverly spacious, with four berths, two of which convert into a saloon, as well as a simple galley area. With quick rigging, it can be sailed solo, but is also able to accommodate small groups, making it a capable and hugely versatile pocket cruiser. 

Photo credit: Cape Cutter 19

Daysailer: Swallow Yachts’ BayRaider 20.  Classic looks with modern performance are combined in Swallow Yachts’ beautiful BayRaider 20. This is one of the most capable and safest daysailers we’ve seen, but also incredibly versatile thanks to the choices of ballast. Keep the ballast tank empty and it’s light and fast. Fill the tank up and you’ve got a stable and safe boat perfect for beginners and families. While it’s got an eye-catching traditional style, the engineering is modern, with a strong carbon mast and construction. While this is a true daysailer, you can use the optional spray hood and camping accessories to create an overnight adventure. 

Photo credit: Swallow Yachts

The Best Sailboats Under 15 Feet

Pocket Cruiser: NorseBoat 12.5.  Can we truly call the NorseBoat 12.5 a pocket cruiser? Yes we can! The sheer versatility of this excellent little sailboat has convinced us. These beautiful hand-crafted sailboats offer exceptional performance and are described by the manufacturer as ‘the Swiss Army Knives of sailboats’. The traditionally styled 12.5 can be sailed, rowed, and motored. It can be trailered, easily beached, and even used as a camp cruiser, allowing for overnight adventures. There is no end to the fun that can be had with this easy-to-sail and easy-to-handle boat, which makes it a dream to learn in. With positive flotation, lots of clever storage, and a full-size double berth for camp cruising, it really is the perfect mini pocket cruiser. 

Photo credit: NorseBoats

Daysailer: Original Beetle Cat Boat 12: All across the bays of the US east coast cat boats have long been part of the ocean landscape. Able to access shallow rocky coves yet also withstand the strong coastal winds, these traditional New England fishing boats have an iconic shape and gaff-rigged mainsails. Beetle Cat have been producing elegant wooden cat boats for over 100 years – in fact they’ve made and sold over 4,000 boats to date. Their 12 foot Cat Boat 12 is one of their finest models, offering lovely daysailing opportunities. It has a wide beam and centerboard that lifts up, allowing it to access shallow waters, as well as a forward mast and single sail gaff rig in keeping with the traditional cat boats. To sail one of these is to be part of the heritage of New England and Cape Cod, and to honor the ancient art of hand-made boat building. 

Beetle Cat official website

Photo credit: Beetle Cat

The Best Small Sailboats for Beginners

When it comes to learning to sail, it’s important to have a boat that is easy to handle. There’s no quicker way to put yourself or your family off sailing than to start off with a boat that is either too big or too complicated. When choosing your first boat we recommend the following characteristics:

• Small: The benefits of starting off with a small boat are many, as we’ve seen above. They’re easier to control as well as to moor, and they react more quickly to steering and sails. They can be trailered and launched easily, and the loads generated are much lower than on bigger, heavier boats.
• Easy to sail: You want a boat that is stable and forgiving of mistakes, doesn’t capsize easily, and isn’t too overpowered in a stronger breeze. Keep things simple and learn as you go.
• Simple sail configuration: Choosing a boat that can be rigged by one person in a few minutes, and easily sailed solo, makes it easier to take along inexperienced crews. With regards to the rig, all you need are a halyard to hoist the mainsail and a sheet to control the mainsail.
• Tiller steering: We recommend boats with tiller steering over wheel steering when starting out. The tiller allows you to get a real feel for the boat and how the rudder works as it moves through the water. 

For more information on choosing the best beginner sailboat check out our full guide. There are many popular brands of beginner boats including Sunfish, Laser, and Hunter Marlow. Some of our favorites include;

Hobie 16: The classic Hobie catamaran has been a well-loved beginner sailboat for years, and the Hobie 16 started life back in 1969. Since then they’ve made and sold over a staggering 100,000 of the 16s. It has twin fiberglass and foam hulls, a large trampoline, and a pull-up rudder so it can be sailed straight onto the beach. The basic package comes with an easy to handle main and jib with plenty of extras available too such as a spinnaker and trailer. The Hobie 16 promises a great learning experience and lots of fun in a very nifty and inexpensive package. 

Photo credit: Hobie

Paine 14: You’ll immediately fall in love with sailing when you step into a beautiful Paine 14. Made from seamless epoxy cold-molded wood, the P-14 is simply beautiful and offers the classic sailing experience with the design and innovation of a more modern hull and rig. Two people will be able to enjoy getting out on the water together and learning the ropes. The Paine 14 has a lead ballast keel that accounts for nearly half her weight, giving her the feel of a much larger boat, but is still trailerable and easy to manage offering the best of both worlds.

Photo credit: Chuck Paine

High-Performance Small Sailboats

Small sailboats generally become high performers if they are light, have a lot of sail area, or they have more than one hull. More recently, some of have been designed with foiling surfaces, as well. For the purposes of this article, we’d like to close by pointing out one model that is super fast and has versatile pocket-cruising capabilities.

Corsair 880 trimaran : The Corsair 880 trimaran is the grandchild of the company’s F27, a model that launched the popularity of trailerable leisure trimarans about 40 years ago. The 880 has taken the model to new heights and exemplifies the incredible space benefits you can achieve in a 29-foot sailboat. We’re talking an aft cabin, room to sleep 5 people, an enclosed head, and standing headroom in the galley and main saloon. It brings many of the opportunities that a much larger yacht plus the ability to cruise in extremely shallow water. Whether you want to cruise to the Bahamas or enjoy a high-adrenaline race, the Corsair 880 offers incredible performance and unlimited adventures in a truly pocket size. 

Photo credit: Corsair

Written By: Samantha Wilson

Samantha Wilson has spent her entire life on and around boats, from tiny sailing dinghies all the way up to superyachts. She writes for many boating and yachting publications, top charter agencies, and some of the largest travel businesses in the industry, combining her knowledge and passion of boating, travel and writing to create topical, useful and engaging content.

More from: Samantha Wilson

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MODERN SAILBOAT DESIGN: Quantifying Stability

We have previously discussed both form stability and ballast stability as concepts, and these certainly are useful when thinking about sailboat design in the abstract. They are less useful, however, when you are trying to evaluate individual boats that you might be interested in actually buying. Certainly you can look at any given boat, ponder its shape, beam, draft, and ballast, and make an intuitive guess as to how stable it is, but what’s really wanted is a simple reductive factor–similar to the displacement/length ratio , sail-area/displacement ratio , or Brewer comfort ratio –that allows you to effectively compare one boat to another.

Unfortunately, it is impossible to thoroughly analyze the stability of any particular sailboat using commonly published specifications. Indeed, stability is so complex and is influenced by so many factors that even professional yacht designers find it hard to quantify. Until the advent of computers, the calculations involved were so overwhelming that certain aspects of stability were only estimated rather than precisely determined. Even today, with computers doing all the heavy number crunching, stability calculations remain the most tedious part of a naval architect’s job.

There are, however, some tools available that you can use to make a sophisticated appraisal of a boat’s stability characteristics. If you dig and scratch a bit–on the Internet, or by pestering a builder or designer–you should be able to unearth one or more of them.

Stability Curves and Ratios

The most common tool used to assess a boat’s form and ballast stability is a stability curve. This is a graphic representation of a boat’s self-righting ability as it is rotated from right side up to upside down. Stability curves are sometimes published or otherwise made available by designers and builders, but to interpret them correctly, you first need to understand the physics of a heeling sailboat.

When perfectly upright, a boat’s center of gravity (CG)–which is a function of its total weight distribution (i.e., its ballast stability)–and its center of buoyancy (CB)–which is a function of its hull shape (i.e., its form stability)–are vertically aligned on the boat’s centerline. CG presses downward on the boat’s hull while CB presses upward with equal force. The two are in perfect equilibrium, and the boat is motionless. If some force heels the boat, however, CB shifts outboard of CG and the equilibrium is disturbed. The horizontal distance created between CG and CB as the boat heels is called the righting arm (GZ). This is a lever arm, with CG pushing down on one end and CB pushing up on the other, and their combined force, known as the righting moment (RM), works to rotate the hull back to an upright position. The point around which the hull rotates is known as the metacenter (M) and is always directly above CB.

The longer the righting arm (i.e., the larger the value for GZ), the greater the righting moment and the harder the hull tries to swing upright again. Up to a point, as a hull heels more, its righting arm just gets longer. The righting moment, consequently, gets larger and larger. This is initial stability. A wider hull has greater initial stability simply because its greater beam allows CB to move farther away from CG as it heels. Shifting ballast to windward also moves CG farther away from CB, and this too lengthens the righting arm and increases initial stability. The angle of maximum stability (AMS) is the angle at which the righting arm for any given hull is as long as it can be. This is where a hull is trying its hardest to turn upright again and is most resistant to further heeling.

Once a hull is pushed past its AMS, its righting arm gets progressively shorter and its ability to resist further heeling decreases. Now we are moving into the realm of ultimate, or reserve, stability. Eventually, if the hull is pushed over far enough, the righting arm disappears and CG and CB are again vertically aligned. Now, however, the metacenter and CG are in the same place, and the hull is metastable, meanings it is in a state of anti-equilibrium. Its fate hangs in the balance, and the least disturbance will cause it to turn one way or the other. This point of no return is the angle of vanishing stability (AVS). If the hull fails to right itself at this point, it must capsize. Any greater angle of heel will cause CG and CB to separate again, except now the horizontal distance between them will be a capsizing arm, not a righting arm. Gravity and buoyancy will be working together to invert the hull.

Stability at work. The righting arm (GZ) gets longer as the center of gravity (CG) and the center of buoyancy (CB) get farther apart, and the boat works harder to right itself. Past the angle of vanishing stability, however, the righting arm is negative and CG and CB are working to capsize the boat

A stability curve is simply a plot of GZ–including both the positive righting arm and the negative capsizing arm–as it relates to angle of heel from 0 to 180 degrees. Alternatively, RM (that is, both the positive righting moment and the negative capsizing moment) can be the basis of the plot, as it derives directly from GZ. (To find RM in foot-pounds, simply multiply GZ in feet by the boat’s displacement in pounds.) In either case, an S-curve plot is typical, with one hump in positive territory and another hopefully smaller hump (assuming the boat in question is a monohull) in negative territory.

The AMS is the highest point on the positive side of the curve; the AVS is the point at which the curve moves from positive to negative territory. The area under the positive hump represents all the energy that must be expended by wind and waves to capsize the boat; the area under the negative hump is the energy (usually only waves come into play here) required to right the boat again. To put it another way: the larger the positive hump, the more likely a boat is to remain right side up; the smaller the negative hump, the less likely it is to remain upside down.

Righting arm (GZ) stability curve for a typical 35-foot cruising boat. The angle of maximum stability (AMS) in this case is 55 degrees with a maximum GZ of 2.6 feet; the angle of vanishing stability (AVS) is 120 degrees; the minimum GZ is -0.8 feet

The relationship between the sizes of the two humps is known as the stability ratio. If you have a stability curve to work from, there are some simple calculations developed by designer Dave Gerr that allow you to estimate the area under each portion of the curve. To calculate the positive energy area (PEA), simply multiply the AVS by the maximum righting arm and then by 0.63: PEA = AVS x max. GZ x 0.63. To calculate the negative energy area (NEA), first subtract the AVS from 180, then multiply the result by the maximum capsizing arm (i.e., the minimum GZ) and then by 0.66: NEA = (180 – AVS) x min. GZ x 0.66. To find the stability ratio divide the positive area by the negative area.

Working from the curve shown in the graph above for a typical 35-foot cruising boat, we get the following values to plug into our equations: AVS = 120 degrees; max. GZ = 2.6 feet; min. GZ = -0.8 feet. The boat’s PEA therefore is 196.56 degree-feet: 120 x 2.6 x 0.63 = 196.56. Its NE is 31.68 degree-feet: (180 – 120) x -0.8 x 0.66 = 31.68. Its stability ratio is thus 6.2: 196.56 ÷ 31.68 = 6.2. As a general rule, a stability ratio of at least 3 is considered adequate for coastal cruising boats; 4 or greater is considered adequate for a bluewater boat. The boat in our example has a very healthy ratio, though some boats exhibit ratios as high as 10 or greater.

You can run these same equations regardless of whether you are working from a curve keyed to the righting arm or the righting moment. The curve in our example is a GZ curve, but if it were an RM curve, we only have to substitute the values for maximum and minimum RM for maximum and minimum GZ. Otherwise the equations run exactly the same way. The results for positive and negative area, assuming RM is expressed in foot-pounds, will be in degree-foot-pounds rather than degree-feet, but the final ratio will be unaffected.

GZ and RM curves are not, however, interchangeable in all respects. When evaluating just one boat it makes little difference which you use, but when comparing different boats you should always use an RM curve. Because righting moment is a function of both a boat’s displacement and the length of its righting arm, RM is the appropriate standard for comparing boats of different displacements. It is possible for different boats to have the same righting arm at any angle of heel, but they are unlikely to have the same stability characteristics. It always takes more energy to capsize a larger, heavier boat, which is why bigger boats are inherently more stable than smaller ones.

Righting moment (RM) stability curves for a 19,200-pound boat and a 28,900-pound boat with identical GZ values. Because heavier boats are inherently more stable, RM is the standard to use when comparing different boats (Data courtesy of Dave Gerr)

Another thing to bear in mind when comparing boats is that not all stability curves are created equal. There are various methods for constructing the curves, each based on different assumptions. The two most commonly used methodologies are based on standards promulgated by the International Measurement System (IMS), a once popular rating rule used in international yacht racing, and by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO). Many yacht designers have developed their own methods. When comparing different boats, you must therefore be sure their curves were constructed according to the same method.

Perfect Curves and Vanishing Angles

To get a better idea of how form and ballast relate to each another, it is useful to compare curves for hypothetical ideal vessels that depend exclusively on one type of stability or the other. A vessel with perfect form stability, for example, would be shaped very much like a wide flat board, and its stability curve would be perfectly symmetrical. Its AVS would be 90 degrees, and it would be just as stable upside down as right side up. A vessel with perfect ballast stability, on the other hand, would be much like a ballasted buoy–that is, a round, nearly weightless flotation ball with a long stick on one side to which a heavy weight is attached, like a pick-up buoy for a mooring or a man-overboard pole. The curve for this vessel would have no AVS at all; there would be just one perfectly symmetric hump with an angle of maximum stability of 90 degrees. The vessel will not become metastable until it reaches the ultimate heeling angle of 180 degrees, and no matter which way it turns at this point, it must right itself.

Ideal righting arm (GZ) stability curves: vessel A, a flat board, is as stable upside down as it is right side up; vessel B, a ballasted buoy, must right itself if turned upside down (Data courtesy of Danny Greene)

Beyond the fact that one curve has no AVS at all and the other has a very poor one, the most obvious difference between the two is that the board (vessel A) reaches its point of no return at precisely the point that the buoy (vessel B) achieves maximum stability. A subtler but critical difference is seen in the shape of the two curves between 0 and 30 degrees of heel, which is the range within which sailboats routinely operate. Vessel A achieves its maximum stability precisely at 30 degrees, and the climb of its curve to that point is extremely steep, indicating high initial stability. Vessel B, on the other hand, exhibits poor initial stability, as the trajectory of its curve to 30 degrees is gentle. Indeed, heeling A to just 30 degrees requires as much energy as is needed to knock B down flat to 90 degrees.

Righting arm (GZ) stability curves for a typical catamaran and a typical narrow, deep-draft, heavily ballasted monohull. Note similarities to the ideal curves in the last figure

To translate this into real-world terms, we need only compare the curves for two real-life vessels at opposite extremes of the stability spectrum. The curve for a typical catamaran, for example, looks similar to that of our board since its two humps are symmetrical. If anything, however, it is even more exaggerated. The initial portion of the curve is extremely steep, and maximum stability is achieved at just 10 degrees of heel. The AVS is actually less than 90 degrees, meaning that the cat, due to the weight of its superstructure and rig, will reach its point of no return even before it is knocked down to a horizontal position. The curve for a narrow, deep-draft, heavily ballasted monohull, by comparison, is similar to that of the ballasted buoy. The only significant difference is that the monohull has an AVS, though it is quite high (about 150 degrees), and its range of instability (that is, the angles at which it is trying to capsize rather than right itself) is very small, especially when compared to that of the catamaran.

The catamaran, due to its light displacement and great initial stability, will likely perform well in moderate conditions and will heel very little, but it has essentially no reserve stability to rely on when conditions get extreme. The monohull because of its heavy displacement (much of it ballast) and great reserve stability, will perform less well in moderate conditions but will be nearly impossible to overturn in severe weather.

What Is An Adequate AVS?

In the real world you will rarely come across stability curves for catamarans. If you do find one, you should probably be most interested in the AMS and the steepness of the curve leading up to it. Monohull sailors, on the other hand, should be most interested in the AVS, and as a general rule the bigger this is the better.

Coastal cruisers sailing in protected waters should theoretically be perfectly safe in a boat with an AVS of just 90 degrees. Assuming you never encounter huge waves, the worst that could happen is you will be knocked flat by the wind, and so as long as you can recover from a 90-degree knockdown, you should be fine. It’s nice to have a safety margin, however, so most experts advise that average-size coastal cruising boats should have an AVS of at least 110 degrees. Some believe the minimum should 115 degrees.

For offshore sailing you want a larger margin of safety. Recovering from a knockdown in high winds is one thing, but in a survival storm, with both high winds and large breaking waves, there will be large amounts of extra energy available to help roll your boat past horizontal. There is near-universal consensus that bluewater boats less than 75 feet long should have an AVS of at least 120 degrees. Because larger boats are inherently more stable, the standard for boats longer than 75 feet is 110 degrees.

The reason 120 degrees is considered the minimum AVS standard for most bluewater boats is quite simple. Naval architects figure that any sea state rough enough to roll a boat past 120 degrees and totally invert it will also be rough enough to right it again in no more than 2 minutes. This, it is assumed, is the longest time most people can hold their breaths while waiting for their boats to right themselves. If you don’t ever want to hold your breath that long, you want to sail offshore in a boat with a higher AVS.

Estimated times of inversion for different AVS values (Data courtesy of Dave Gerr)

As this graph illustrates, an AVS of 150 degrees is pretty much the Holy Grail. A boat with this much reserve stability can expect to meet a wave large enough to turn it right side up again almost the instant it’s turned over.

Other Factors To Consider

Stability curves may look dynamic and sophisticated, but in fact they are based on relatively simple formulas that can’t account for everything that might make a particular boat more or less stable in the real world. For one thing, as with regular performance ratios, the displacement values used in calculating stability curves are normally light-ship figures and do not include the weight that is inevitably added when a boat is equipped and loaded for cruising. Even worse, much of this extra weight–in the form of roller-furling units, mast-mounted radomes, and other heavy gear–will be well above the waterline and thus will erode a boat’s inherent stability. The effect can be quite large. For example, installing an in-mast furling system may reduce your boat’s AVS by as much as 20 degrees. In most cases, you should assume that a loaded cruising boat will have an AVS at least 10 degrees lower than that indicated on a stability curve calculated with a light-ship displacement number.

Another important factor to consider is downflooding. Stability curves normally assume that a boat will take on no water when knocked down past 90 degrees, but this is unlikely in the real world. The companionway hatch will probably be at least partway open, and if the knockdown is unexpected, other hatches may be open as well. Water entering a boat that is heeled to an extreme angle will further destabilize the boat by shifting weight to its low side. If the water sloshes about, as is likely, this free-surface effect will make it even harder for the boat to come upright again.

This may seem irrelevant if you are a coastal cruiser, but if you are a bluewater cruiser you should be aware of the location of your companionway. A centerline companionway will rarely start downflooding until a boat is heeled to 110 degrees or more. An offset companionway, however, if it is on the low side of the boat as it heels, may yield downflood angles of 100 degrees or lower. A super AVS of 150 degrees won’t do much good if your boat starts flooding well before that. To my knowledge, no commonly published stability curve accounts for this factor.

Another issue is the cockpit. An open-transom cockpit, or a relatively small one with large effective drains, will drain quickly if flooded in a knockdown. A large cockpit that drains poorly, however, may retain water for several minutes, and this, too, can destabilize a boat that is struggling to right itself.

This boat has features that can both degrade and improve its stability. The severely offset companionway makes downflooding a big risk during a port tack knockdown or capsize, but the high rounded cabintop and small cockpit footwell will help the boat to right itself

Fortunately, not all unaccounted for stability factors are negative. IMS-based stability curves, for example, assume that all boats have flush decks and ignore the potentially positive effect of a cabin house. This is important, as a raised house, particularly one with a rounded top, provides a lot of extra buoyancy as it is submerged and can significantly increase a boat’s stability at severe heel angles. Lifeboats and other self-righting vessels have high round cabintops for precisely this reason.

ISO-based stability curves do account for a raised cabin house, but not all designers believe this is a good thing. A cabin house only increases reserve stability if it is impervious to flooding when submerged. If it has open hatches or has large windows and apertures that may break under pressure, it will only help a boat capsize and sink that much faster. The ISO formulas fail to take this into account and instead may award high stability ratings to motorsailers and deck-saloon boats with large houses and windows that may be vulnerable in extreme conditions.

Simplified Measures of Stability

In addition to developing stability curves, which obviously are fairly complex, designers and rating and regulatory authorities have also worked to quantify a boat’s stability with a single number. The simplest of these, the capsize screening value (CSV), was developed in the aftermath of the 1979 Fastnet Race. Over a third of the more than 300 boats entered in that race, most of them beamy, lightweight IOR designs, were capsized (rolled to 180 degrees) by large breaking waves, and this prompted a great deal of research on yacht stability. The capsize screening value, which relies only on published specifications and was intended to be accessible to laypeople, indicates whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions.

To figure out a boat’s CSV divide the cube root of its displacement in cubic feet into its maximum beam in feet: CSV = beam ÷ ³√DCF. You’ll recall that a boat’s weight and the volume of water it displaces are directly related, and that displacement in cubic feet is simply displacement in pounds divided by 64 (which is the weight in pounds of a cubic foot of salt water). To run an example of the equation, let’s assume we have a hypothetical 35-foot boat that displaces 12,000 pounds and has 11 feet of beam. To find its CSV, first calculate DCF–12,000 ÷ 64 = 187.5–then find the cube root of that result: ³√187.5 = 5.72; note that if your calculator cannot do cube roots, you can instead take 187.5 to the 1/3 power and get the same result. Divide that result into 11, and you get a CSV of 1.92: 11 ÷ 5.72 = 1.92.

Interpreting the number is also simple. Any result of 2 or less indicates a boat that is sufficiently self-righting to go offshore. The further below 2 you go, the more self-righting the boat is; extremely stable boats have values on the order of 1.7. Results above 2 indicate a boat may be prone to remain inverted when capsized and that a more detailed analysis is needed to determine its suitability for offshore sailing.

As handy as it is, the CSV has limited utility. It accounts for only two factors–displacement and beam–and fails to consider how weight is distributed aboard a boat. For example, if we load our hypothetical 12,000-pound boat with an extra 2,250 pounds for light coastal cruising, its CSV declines to 1.8. Load it with an extra 3,750 pounds for heavy coastal or moderate bluewater use, and the CSV declines still further, to 1.71. This suggests that the boat is becoming more stable, when in fact it may become less stable if much of the extra weight is distributed high in the boat.

Note too that a boat with unusually high ballast–including, most obviously, a boat with ballast in its bilges rather than its keel–will also earn a deceptively low screening value. Two empty boats of identical displacement and beam will have identical screening values even though the boat with deeper ballast will necessarily be more resistant to capsize.

Another single-value stability rating still frequently encountered is the IMS stability index number. This was developed under the IMS rating system to compare stability characteristics of race boats of various sizes. The formula essentially restates a boat’s AVS so as to account for its overall size, awarding higher values to longer boats, which are inherently more stable. IMS index numbers normally range from a little below 100 to over 140. For what are termed Category 0 races, which are transoceanic events, 120 is usually the required minimum. In Category 1 events, which are long-distances races sailed “well offshore,” 115 is the common minimum standard, and for Category 2 events, races of extended duration not far from shore, 110 is normally the minimum standard. Conservative designers and pundits often posit 120 as the acceptable minimum for an offshore cruising boat.

Since many popular cruising boats were never measured or rated under the IMS rule, you shouldn’t be surprised if you cannot find an IMS-based stability curve or stability index number for a cruising boat you are interested in. You may find one if the boat in question is a cruiser-racer, as IMS was once a prevalent rating system. Bear in mind, though, that the IMS index number does not take into account cabin structures (or cockpits, for that matter), and assumes a flush deck from gunwale to gunwale. Neither does it account for downflooding.

Another single-value stability rating that casts itself as an “index” is promulgated by the ISO. This is known as STIX, which is simply a trendy acronym for stability index. Because STIX values must be calculated for any new boat sold inside the European Union (EU), and because STIX is, in fact, the only government-imposed stability standard in use anywhere in the world, it is likely to become the predominant standard in years to come.

A STIX number is the result of many complex calculations accounting for a boat’s length, displacement, beam, ability to shed water after a knockdown, angle of vanishing stability, downflooding, cabin superstructure, and freeboard in breaking seas, among others. STIX values range from the low single digits to about 50. A minimum of 38 is required by the European Union for Category A boats, which are certified for use on extended passages more than 500 miles offshore where waves with a maximum height of 46 feet may be encountered. A value of at least 23 is required for Category B boats, which are certified for coastal use within 500 miles of shore where maximum wave heights of 26 feet may be encountered, and the minimum values for categories C and D (inshore and sheltered waters, respectively) are 14 and 5. These standards do not restrict an owner’s use of his boat, but merely dictate how boats may be marketed to the public.

The STIX standard has many critics, including many yacht designers who do not enjoy having to make the many calculations involved, but the STIX number is the most comprehensive single measure of stability now available. As such, it can hardly be ignored. Many critics assert that the standards are too low and that a number of 40 or greater is more appropriate for Category A boats and 30 or more is best for Category B boats. Others believe that in trying to account for and quantify so many factors in a single value, the STIX number oversimplifies a complex subject. To properly evaluate stability, they suggest, it is necessary to evaluate the various factors independently and make an informed judgment leavened by a good dose of common sense.

As useful as they may or may not be, STIX numbers are generally unavailable for boats that predate the EU’s adoption of the STIX standard in 1998. Even if you can find a number for a boat you are interested in, bear in mind that STIX numbers do not account for large, potentially vulnerable windows and ports in cabin superstructures, nor do they take into account a boat’s negative stability. In other words, boats that are nearly as stable upside down as right side up may still receive high STIX numbers.

The bottom line when evaluating stability is that no single factor or rating should be considered to the exclusion of all others. It is probably best, as the STIX critics suggest, to gather as much information from as many sources as you can, and to bear in mind all we have discussed here when pondering it.

Extremely good analysis of the issue. Did you do an engineering degree before law school Charlie? One more thought on stability that is outwith the scope of the indices. In the classic broach, as the vessel rounds up th keel bites the water and makes the turn worse, increasing the apparent wind and angle of heel, making the rudder progressively less effective,until it is powerless at 90 degrees heel. In a centreboarder with the board up, the bow skids off, avoiding a real broach, and hence danger of being forced to the spreaders hitting the water. We were caught in a 25 knot gust with our somewhat oversize spi up, the helmsman fell and let go, yet we never heeled past about 50 degrees. You had some fun on the cboard Che Vive in strong wind from aft. To some extent, this phenomenon mitigates the poorer AVS of the centreboarder. Is it enough? I hope to avoid checking it out in practice

@Neil: You’re right. I think centerboard boats are more stable in some situations, less stable in others, and the situations in which they are more stable are not represented in stability curves. It is an imperfect science, to say the least. For example, a point I probably should have emphasized a bit more strongly in the text is that the capsize screening value was never ever intended to be dispositive. It was only intended to identify boats that should be subjected to a more rigorous analysis. Thus the word “screening.” charlie

Charlie just came across this post while preparing for my next workshop this weekend. It’s flat out great, the best real world explanation of stability I’ve read.

John, Im John. I live in Rural N.C. about 75 minutes inland from New Bern. Im 58, single dad and when my 17 year old graduates next year i will be headed to Thailand….from North Carolina. I will NOT see the Cape to starboard…maybe i will write a book…Panama to Starboard

@John: Coming from you, that’s a real compliment. Thanks, mate!

A bit late in the day given the date of the article. Anyway here goes. The boat properties in this article are obtained under static equilibrium conditions. Thus the moment resistance curve is obtained by calculating the relative positions of the weight of the vessel and the buoyancy force as the hull is caused to rotate or heel- the resistance due to the moment produced by the misalignment of the two forces at various angles of heel. Because the movement takes place extremely slow no account is allowed for the effect of inertia. I would like to make my point my considering the example of a bag of sugar : In the first example (a) the sugar is gently poured from the bag onto the pan of a weigh scale until the required weight is reached , say one pound: thus an oz at a time until the scale pointer is at one pound ! In case (b) the sugar is placed in a bag, and the bag is placed in contact with the scale but then suddenly released. At which point the scale pointer will swing well past the 1 pound mark reaching 2 pounds , and the pointer will oscillate about the one pound mark, eventually coming to rest about this value! In case (c) the bag , instead of being placed in contact with pan is released from a height of one foot before being released. This will cause likely cause the pointer to be bent and a broken weigh scale.

It is a apparent that the properties used to measure a boats stability are derived from the conditions similar to case (a), while in reality they should be deduced from case (c) INERTIA IS IMPORTANT.

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Sailing Dinghies: The Ultimate Guide for Beginners

by Emma Sullivan | Aug 13, 2023 | Sailboat Gear and Equipment

== Short answer: Sailing dinghies ==

Sailing dinghies are small, lightweight boats designed for recreational and competitive sailing. They typically have one or two sails and can accommodate a few people. Dinghies are versatile and popular for their simplicity, affordability, and ease of transportation.

Exploring the Thrilling World of Sailing Dinghies: A Comprehensive Guide

Sail away with us as we dive deeper into the thrilling world of sailing dinghies in this comprehensive guide. Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or a beginner looking to embark on your first sailing adventure, this blog post promises to be your ultimate companion in navigating the mesmerizing waters of dinghy sailing. So grab your life jacket and get ready for a wild ride!

1. Unveiling the Magic: What is a Sailing Dinghy? Before we set sail , let’s start at the beginning. A sailing dinghy is a small boat that is often single-handed and encompasses everything from simple recreational vessels to high-performance racing boats. These nautical wonders are built to withstand winds and waves, offering an exhilarating experience unlike any other.

2. Picking Your Perfect Dinghy: Choosing the right sailing dinghy can be overwhelming with the plethora of options available. From classic wooden designs to sleek modern ones, each boat has its own unique personality. We’ll walk you through the different types of dinghies and help you find “the one” that best suits your needs and dreams.

3. Rigging Made Simple: Once you’ve chosen your ideal sailing dinghy, it’s time for rigging—setting up all the lines and sails needed for smooth navigation. Fear not! We’ll break down this seemingly complex process into simple steps, ensuring that you’re able to rig like a pro in no time.

4. Learning the Ropes: Essential Sailing Skills: Now that you’re rigged up, it’s time to learn those essential sailing skills. From hoisting sails to adjusting controls, mastering proper tacking and jibing techniques – we’ve got you covered with our expert tips and tricks so that you can handle your dinghy like a seasoned sailor.

5. Racing: The Oceanic Adrenaline Rush: For those seeking an extra dose of excitement, consider dipping your toes into racing! Dinghy racing brings together sailing enthusiasts from all walks of life to compete in thrilling regattas. We’ll delve into the intricacies of race tactics, boat handling, and the sheer adrenaline rush that comes with competing against fellow sailors.

6. Safety First: Safety should always be paramount when setting sail . We’ll equip you with a comprehensive checklist that covers everything from life jackets and safety harnesses to understanding weather conditions and emergency procedures. With our guidance, you’ll navigate the waters with confidence and peace of mind.

7. Exploring Destinations: Dinghies on Different Terrains: Dinghies aren’t restricted to just open waters; they can also venture into lakes, rivers, and even challenging coastal areas. We’ll take you on an exciting journey across various terrains, highlighting the unique experiences each destination offers for dinghy sailors. Get ready to explore hidden coves, picturesque lakeshores, and breathtaking riverbanks!

8. Sailing Community: The Wind Beneath Your Wings: Lastly, we can’t forget about the vibrant sailing community that adds another layer of joy to dinghy sailing! We’ll dive into sailing associations, clubs, forums, and events that bring like-minded individuals together. Join this captivating community and fuel your passion for sailing by exchanging stories, tips, memories—and maybe even find your next sailing buddy along the way!

So there you have it—an in-depth guide to exploring the thrilling world of sailing dinghies! From choosing the right Dinghy to mastering essential skills whilst ensuring safety onboard—all while discovering picturesque destinations—this comprehensive guide has got everything covered for sailors seeking adventure or beginners looking to start their maritime escapades. So hoist those sails high and embrace the fantastic world of sailing!

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Discover the charm of the Adriatic Sea aboard top-tier yachts provided by SkipperCity. Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or a beginner eager to learn the ropes, their expertly maintained fleet and knowledgeable crew ensure a safe and enjoyable voyage. Explore hidden coves, historic ports, and sun-soaked islands in a vessel that combines comfort and performance.

Ready to set sail on a Croatian adventure that combines the tradition of gaff rigged boats with modern luxury? Visit SkipperCity for an unforgettable maritime experience. Click below to watch their enticing sailing videos and to book your next sailing adventure!

How to Sail Dinghies: Step-by-Step Beginner’s Handbook

Sailing is an exhilarating and captivating sport that allows individuals to harness the power of the wind and venture out into open waters . Amongst all types of sailboats, dinghies are particularly popular among beginners due to their smaller size, easy maneuverability, and versatility. Whether you are dreaming of cruising along tranquil lakes or racing against the wind, this step-by-step beginner’s handbook will equip you with the necessary skills and knowledge to embark on your sailing journey.

1. Choosing a Dinghy As a beginner, it is crucial to select a dinghy that suits your skill level and sailing ambitions. Opt for a stable design such as a Laser, Optimist, or RS Tera – these dinghies provide excellent stability while allowing room for growth as you become more experienced. Collaborate with expert sailors at your local yacht club or seek advice from seasoned sailors who can guide you in making the best choice.

2. Understanding Components Before venturing onto the water, let’s familiarize ourselves with the basic components of a dinghy. Start by acquainting yourself with terms like tiller (used for steering), mainsheet (controls sail position), halyard (raises sails), jib (front sail), boom (lower horizontal spar), and kicker (controls boom height). Knowing these names will greatly enhance your understanding when reading about techniques specific to each part .

3. Rigging Your Dinghy Rigging refers to installing and setting up various components before setting sail . Begin by hoisting the mast using the halyard until it stands vertically while ensuring all ropes are untangled and attachments secure . Next, attach sails properly, secured at both luff (leading edge) and leech (trailing edge) using suitable tension. Finally, connect control lines like mainsheet, kicker, jib sheets – keeping an eye on correct length and tension as you rig.

4. Getting Underway With your dinghy rigged and ready, it’s time to set sail ! Begin by launching the dinghy onto the water, either by sliding it off a ramp or gently easing it from a trailer. Once afloat, adjust the rudder and centerboard position to ensure stability. Steer clear of shallow waters, submerged objects, or excessive waves during this process. Bear in mind that gentle breezes are ideal for beginners to get accustomed to sailing techniques.

5. Basic Sailing Techniques To move forward, position yourself on the windward (upwind) side of the boat while holding onto the tiller extension with one hand. Slightly lean out over the water to balance weight distribution as you catch an appropriate angle to sail efficiently toward your desired destination. Maintain awareness of wind direction by feeling its effect on your face or by watching telltales attached to sails’ edges.

6. Tacking and Gybing Tacking and gybing refer to changing direction while sailing upwind and downwind , respectively. To tack (change direction toward the wind), bring the bow of your boat through the wind, ensuring smooth movements with trim adjustments on both sails once you cross over. Similarly, when gybing (changing direction away from the wind), ensure safe control of both boom and mainsheet while allowing maneuvering space for smooth transition .

7. Safety First! Sailing adventures must prioritize safety above all else – especially as a beginner! Always wear appropriate personal flotation devices (PFDs) that match local regulations and weather conditions; they can be lifesaving if unexpected incidents occur. Additionally, learn how to capsize safely and recover using techniques like righting lines or rescues by following reputable training programs available at yacht clubs or sailing schools.

8. Expanding Your Skills Once you become proficient with basic sailing maneuvers, challenge yourself by learning more advanced skills. Expand your knowledge about racing tactics, starting procedures, or even basic maintenance tips to keep your dinghy in top shape. Engage with fellow sailors and join sailing events or classes that can provide extensive learning opportunities, helping you progress from a beginner to an expert sailor!

Sailing provides an escape into the embrace of nature’s forces while cultivating valuable life skills such as self-confidence, problem-solving, and resilience. By following this step-by-step beginner’s handbook on how to sail dinghies, you’ll embark on a thrilling adventure that transcends the boundaries of land. So grab your lifejacket, adjust your sails, and immerse yourself in the enchanting world of dinghy sailing – where endless possibilities await!

Frequently Asked Questions about Sailing Dinghies: Everything You Need to Know

Introduction: Sailing dinghies are small , lightweight boats that are perfect for those seeking adventurous water experiences. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced sailor, sailing dinghies offer a thrilling way to explore the open waters. However, as with any sport or hobby, it’s natural to have questions and seek information before diving in. In this blog post, we aim to answer some of the frequently asked questions about sailing dinghies and provide you with everything you need to know.

1. What is a sailing dinghy? A sailing dinghy is a small boat typically designed for one to four individuals. It features a single mast with a mainsail and often has additional sails like jibs or spinnakers. The compact size and maneuverability of dinghies make them excellent vessels for racing or recreational sailing purposes.

2. How do I choose the right sailing dinghy for me? Choosing the right sailing dinghy depends on various factors such as your skill level, intended use, budget, and personal preferences. Beginners usually opt for stable and forgiving boats like Optimists or Laser Picos, while experienced sailors may prefer high-performance boats such as 29ers or RS Fevas. Consider consulting with experts at a reputable boatyard who can guide you in selecting the most suitable option based on your needs.

3. Is it difficult to learn how to sail a dinghy? Learning how to sail a dinghy can be both challenging and rewarding. While basic skills can be acquired relatively quickly, mastering advanced techniques takes time and practice. Attending certified training courses with qualified instructors is recommended as they will teach you the fundamentals of sailing technique, safety procedures, wind dynamics, and capsize recovery methods.

4. Can I go solo on a sailing dinghy? Absolutely! Many people enjoy solo sailing as it provides tranquility and solitude on the water. However, venturing out alone requires additional precautions and expertise. It’s crucial to inform someone onshore about your plans, wear proper safety gear such as a life jacket, and ensure you’re confident in handling the boat single-handedly.

5. Are sailing dinghies safe? Sailing dinghies are generally considered safe; however, like any water activity, certain risks exist. Adhering to safety guidelines is essential for a secure sailing experience . Always check weather conditions before heading out, be mindful of other boats and potential obstacles, carry suitable safety equipment, and stay updated on maritime regulations specific to your location.

6. What should I wear when sailing a dinghy? Comfortable clothing that allows ease of movement is recommended while sailing dinghies. Dress according to the climate but be prepared for unexpected changes in weather conditions by layering your clothes. Wearing non-slip shoes is advisable along with a sun hat or cap and sunglasses to protect yourself from the sun’s glare.

7. How can I improve my racing skills in a sailing dinghy? Improving your racing skills requires dedication and practice. Join local sailing clubs or associations that organize races where you can compete against others and receive valuable feedback from experienced sailors. Additionally, studying resources like books or online tutorials on racing tactics can help you understand advanced techniques such as optimizing boat speed, utilizing wind shifts effectively, and strategic positioning during regattas.

Conclusion: Sailing dinghies offer an exhilarating world of adventure on the water for both beginners and seasoned sailors alike. By choosing the right boat for your skill level and preferences, acquiring proper training, adhering to safety guidelines, and continuously honing your skills through practice and competition, you’ll find yourself embracing all that this exciting sport has to offer. So grab a sailboat that suits you best and let the winds take you on unforgettable journeys!

Top Reasons Why Sailing Dinghies are Perfect for Adventure Enthusiasts

Do you have an insatiable appetite for adventure? If the answer is yes, then look no further than sailing dinghies – the ultimate vessel for thrill-seekers and explorers alike. Brimming with excitement, these compact and versatile boats are tailor-made to provide adrenaline junkies with an unforgettable experience on the open water . In this blog post, we will delve into the top reasons why sailing dinghies are perfect for adventure enthusiasts like yourself.

1. Portability: When it comes to exploring new horizons, convenience is key. Sailing dinghies offer unparalleled portability, making them a dream companion for any adventurer. Whether you’re embarking on a weekend getaway or planning a spontaneous trip to uncharted waters, their lightweight design allows for effortless transportation both on land and water. These vessels can be easily loaded onto trailers or car roofs, granting you the freedom to venture wherever your heart desires.

2. Versatility: Variety is indeed the spice of life, and sailing dinghies thrive in providing just that. Thanks to their compact size and versatile features, these boats can adapt to various conditions and environments with ease. From tranquil lakes to raging rivers or even coastal expeditions – nothing stands in your way! Seamlessly maneuverable, sailing dinghies deliver exceptional agility while cruising through tight spaces or navigating choppy waters – ensuring that every adventure unfolds without a hitch.

3. Freedom in simplicity: Adventure enthusiasts seek experiences that are pure and unadulterated – devoid of unnecessary complications. Sailing dinghies offer precisely that; their simplistic yet efficient design allows you to focus solely on what matters – embracing the thrill of exploration! With fewer components compared to larger vessels, maintaining, rigging up, and launching a sailing dinghy becomes hassle-free – giving you more time to uncover hidden treasures at sea.

4. Skill mastery: For those yearning to acquire new skills or refine existing ones, sailing dinghies make for the perfect tutor. As an adventure enthusiast, the journey itself is just as crucial as the destination, and mastering the art of sailing a dinghy enriches that journey tenfold. Whether you’re a novice taking your first steps in the world of sailing or an experienced sailor seeking a new challenge, these vessels provide ample opportunities to improve your seamanship skills through precise maneuvering and navigating ever-changing conditions.

5. Adrenaline rush: There’s nothing quite like the intoxicating rush of adrenaline when you surf on waves, harnessing the power of nature with every gust of wind. Sailing dinghies are specifically designed for thrill-seekers who crave that exhilarating sensation. With their lightweight construction and responsive handling, these boats allow you to push your limits and experience heart-pounding moments as you zip across water bodies at thrilling speeds – a symphony between man, vessel, and nature.

In conclusion, if you identify yourself as an adventure enthusiast in search of electrifying experiences on the high seas, look no further than sailing dinghies. Fuelled by their portability, versatility, simplicity, skill-building opportunities, and sheer adrenaline-pumping capabilities – these compact watercraft offer everything you need to embark on unforgettable voyages. Let sailing dinghies be your steadfast companion through uncharted territories as you brave wild waters and create memories that will last a lifetime!

Mastering the Art of Sailing Dinghies: Pro Tips and Techniques Revealed

Welcome to our blog where we delve into the exciting world of mastering the art of sailing dinghies. In this post, we will reveal some pro tips and techniques to help you become a skilled sailor in no time. So, hop on board and let’s set sail !

Sailing dinghies is a thrilling and challenging activity that requires a unique combination of skill, technique, and intuition. Whether you are a novice sailor or an experienced seafarer looking to enhance your skills, these pro tips will surely give you an edge.

1. Understanding the Basics: Before embarking on your sailing adventure, it’s important to grasp the fundamentals of sailing dinghies. Familiarize yourself with key terminology such as the tack, jibing, wind direction, and points of sail . This foundational knowledge forms the basis for any successful sailor.

2. Perfecting Your Balance: Maintaining balance on a dinghy is crucial to ensure stability and control over the vessel. Keep your weight evenly distributed while moving around the boat and use slight body movements to control its motion. Practice regularly so that balancing becomes second nature.

3. Harnessing the Wind: As any sailor knows, understanding wind direction is essential when maneuvering a dinghy efficiently . Watch out for telltale signs such as ripples on the water’s surface or observing flags nearby. Adjust your sails accordingly to maximize their effectiveness and propel your dinghy forward with precision.

4. Trimming Like a Pro: Properly trimming your sails can make all the difference in how your dinghy performs on the water. Experiment with different sail settings to find what works best in different wind conditions – too loose and you lose speed, too tight and you risk capsizing.

5.Mastering Tacking and Jibing: Tacking (turning into the wind) and jibing (turning away from the wind) are critical maneuvers that require finesse and precise timing. Practice these techniques to optimize your dinghy’s speed and maintain control while changing direction .

6. Utilizing Your Senses: Sailing is an art that relies not only on technical knowledge but also on the ability to sense and interpret the conditions around you. Sharpening your senses – observing changes in wind, water movement, and other boats – will help you anticipate potential challenges and make informed decisions.

7. Understanding Weight Distribution: In sailing dinghies, weight distribution can greatly impact performance. When going upwind, move forward in the boat to better slice through waves. Conversely, when heading downwind, shift your weight backward to keep the bow from digging into the water.

8. Learning from Others: Never underestimate the power of learning from more experienced sailors. Attend sailing workshops or join communities where you can interact with like-minded individuals who can share their wisdom and experiences with you.

9. Embracing Safety Measures: Safety should always be a top priority when sailing dinghies. Wear a personal flotation device (PFD), understand basic first aid procedures, and be mindful of weather conditions before setting out on the water.

10. Practicing Dedication and Perseverance: Last but not least, mastering the art of sailing dinghies requires dedication and perseverance. There may be moments of frustration or setbacks along the way, but don’t give up! With time and practice, you’ll become a skilled sailor capable of maneuvering any challenging situation.

So there you have it – our pro tips and techniques for mastering the art of sailing dinghies revealed! Remember to approach this exciting adventure with curiosity, a thirst for knowledge, and a dash of humor along the way because after all, sailing is meant to be exhilarating!

From Landlubber to Sailor: Embark on Your Sailing Journey with Dinghies

Are you tired of keeping your feet firmly planted on dry land? Have you ever imagined yourself gliding through the open waters, feeling the wind in your hair and the waves beneath your feet? Well, it’s time to turn those dreams into reality!

Embarking on a sailing journey can be an exhilarating and transformative experience . And what better way to immerse yourself in this world than by starting with dinghies? Don’t be fooled by their small size; these little boats are packed with big potential. So, put on your sea legs, grab hold of the tiller, and let’s dive into why dinghies are the perfect vessel for you to transition from a landlubber to a full-fledged sailor.

Firstly, let’s address the elephant in the harbor – why choose dinghies over larger sailboats ? Well, besides being cute and compact, dinghies offer numerous advantages that make them ideal for beginners. Their smaller size means they are easier to handle and maneuver compared to larger boats . This allows beginners like yourself to gain confidence and develop essential sailing skills without feeling overwhelmed.

One of the standout features of dinghies is their responsiveness. Unlike larger sailboats that may require an entire crew or complex systems, dinghies respond promptly to every adjustment you make. Just a slight tweak of the sails or adjustment of the rudder can result in immediate changes in speed and direction. This level of control not only allows you to fine-tune your sailing techniques but also provides an instant sense of accomplishment as you navigate across the water .

Another fantastic aspect of sailing dinghies is their versatility. Whether you prefer serene lake outings or exciting coastal adventures, there’s a dinghy suited for every type of environment. From lively racing models designed for adrenaline junkies to stable cruisers perfect for leisurely exploration, dinghies come in a wide range of types to match your preferences and skill level.

But wait, there’s more! Dinghies also offer the opportunity for endless learning and growth. As you become more comfortable on the water, you can experiment with different sailing techniques, try out various rigs, and even explore racing competitions if that tickles your fancy. The learning curve is never-ending but always rewarding, ensuring that every session aboard a dinghy brings new challenges and triumphs for you to conquer.

Now that we’ve established why dinghies are the go-to choice for aspiring sailors like yourself, it’s time to address the other vital aspect – developing your sailing skills. While embarking on this journey may seem daunting at first, fear not! There are numerous training programs available specifically tailored to beginners starting their adventure with dinghies .

These programs usually begin with thorough instruction on boat handling, rigging, basic maneuvers such as tacking and gybing, and essential safety procedures. Following this initial training period, you’ll have the chance to put theory into practice as you take control of your very own dinghy under the watchful eye of experienced instructors. Their guidance will ensure you navigate any obstacles smoothly while building confidence in your abilities.

The beauty of learning through hands-on experience is that by the end of these training programs, you won’t just be equipped with theoretical knowledge or basic sailing skills; rather, you’ll have developed a deeper understanding of wind patterns, currents, navigation principles – things that truly make one a skilled sailor.

So there you have it – from landlubber to sailor. By choosing to embark on your sailing journey with dinghies as your vessel of choice, you’re setting yourself up for an adventure filled with excitement, growth, and endless possibilities. So pack your sunscreen, don your sailor hat (optional), and get ready to set sail into a world brimming with freedom and wonder. Your journey awaits!

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Great Seamanship: Sailing across Europe in a 10ft dinghy

• Tom Cunliffe
• June 17, 2024

A cross-Europe adventure in a 10ft dinghy sees Sandy Mackinnon nearly come a cropper off Whitstable’s mud flats. Tom Cunliffe introduces this extract from The Unlikely Voyage of Jack De Crow

When the Great Seamanship column put out to sea 20 years ago, the extracts were drawn from classic sailing literature, much of it written before World War II. As years went by, we realised we were missing a trick and that a stream of eclectic new material was being published.

Mining this rich vein has been a source of continued delight. A fine example arrived this month and I confess it has been a struggle to put it down. The Unlikely Voyage of Jack de Crow by AJ (Sandy) Mackinnon tells the tale of his solo voyage from Shropshire to the Black Sea in, of all things, a Mirror dinghy.

The tale begins with Mackinnon, a teacher at a small public school, discovering the dinghy upside down under a pile of leaves by the local lake. He rescues the boat, names it after a pet raven, and decides to use it to take his departure from what might be described as ‘life so far’. Once underway, the book is a wild helter-skelter of experiences, people and narrow squeaks with disaster.

We join him beating into a rising north-east gale towards Whitstable out of the Swale on the Thames estuary. It’s noon and he has already been underway since 0515 but matters rapidly deteriorate from the tough to the bizarre.

Extract from The Unlikely Voyage of Jack De Crow

1200 – Noon I have reached the end of the Isle, and the Swale has bent north­-east to join the sea. My destination of Whitstable lies visible across a wide expanse of lumpy grey and white water directly east, but now, at low tide, this is barred and broken by the oyster beds of Whitstable Flats.

I must continue in the main channel as it runs straight into the nor’easter for several miles until I can finally bear away to starboard and head directly to the shelter of the harbour. The wind, now that I have emerged from the shelter of the Isle, has become stronger. It is an iron bar ruled straight across the sea from Holland, thrashing the waves to a savage chop of white horses.

1230 – This is dreadful. The waves are too big. Without a jib I am having a hard time tacking into the wind. Each time I try to change tack I lose way, am slapped sideways by the next grey fist of water and blown back down the channel a hundred yards before I can regain control.

Another problem is that the vast triangular acres of Whitstable Flats are too shallow to allow me to sail directly across them to shore, but not yet so dry that they do not allow the vicious combers to come sweeping across them, driven before the wind like grey Furies. I am suffering the double disadvantage of being out on an exposed body of sea and yet hemmed in a narrow channel… and I am not coping.

After half an hour of weeping frustration I learn a trick when going about. At the very moment of changing course, I release the tiller for a perilous few seconds, grab an oar and haul Jack bodily around onto the next tack. There are a few seconds of jolting and sloshing and the frenzied flogging of the mainsheet, then the brave little dinghy kicks off towards the further bank of the channel. I then have a minute or two to bail the boat like a madman with my plastic half-milk-bottle, before repeating the process.

Even this bailing is a precarious task. To balance the force of the wind in the sail, I must sit out as far as I dare, my bottom on the windward gunwale, my torso leaning out over the sea and clinging onto the mainsheet for dear life. To bail, however, I must lean right in, stooping to scoop the water from the bilges, and then the dinghy threatens to tip right over. On two occasions the lee gunwale sluices right under and Jack is suddenly awash with the briny flood. I decide that bailing is perhaps something that can wait.

Having said all this, I am, incredibly, enjoying myself. I’m wet through, bone-cold and my tiller hand is cramped painfully to its task. I am also making a bare mile in the hour. But, filled with adrenaline, I am singing ‘When the Foeman Bares his Steel’ defiantly to the storm winds, and besides, I’m nearly to the open stretch and will soon be able to turn and reach smoothly down to Whitstable. Tee-hee and Taran-taraaa!

1323 – I stop singing Gilbert and Sullivan and start singing ‘For Those in Peril on the Sea’. My boom has just broken.

Well, no, not my entire boom, just the bit where the mainsheet is attached. The boom-end pulley suddenly decides that our chances of survival are actually not that high, and decides to make a break for it. One moment it is there – the next it has vanished with a splash overboard. The sail flogs uncontrollably. The loose mainsheet convulses into knots. I coolly reattach sheet to boom with a special knot invented on the spot, and continue to sail. We have blown back half a mile in the interval.

Sandy Mackinnon and his trusty Jack de Crow heading off east. Photo: AJ Mackinnon

1327 – I discover that my new knot is a rather clever sort of self-jamming knot. Although I can still haul the sail in, I cannot let it out again, it seems. I can no longer spill wind to balance the blow, but must instead lean out even further. This is only possible by actually standing on the gunwale, a stunt that Mirrors were not really designed for. I am now riding Jack like a windsurfer, and the rigging is emitting strange moanings and hummings. I am going to die.

1352 – Bailer blows overboard.

1353 – I turn sharply to retrieve it, a feat of utter stupidity for I run straight onto the eastern mudbank that here lurks a foot below the water. There is an almighty CRRA-A-CK from beneath the keel. Centreboard? Possibly…

1359 – Bailer is back in Sittingbourne by now. Boat still sailing into the wind, oddly enough, so it can’t have been the centreboard after all. Boat horribly full of water, so I use the pith helmet to bail. Marvellous! Much better than the old bailer, can’t think why I didn’t think of that before. Am beginning to get really rather cold and tired. Make slow but steady progress towards the spit just 500 yards ahead, sloosh, slap, wallop, splash, thud, plash, clunk. Thank God I don’t get seasick.

Article continues below…

1435 – Getting there. I am actually going to make it. Decide to experiment tentatively with the centreboard. Gingerly try pulling it up a little. Stuck. Tug harder. Still stuck. Another pull and… whoosh! Up she comes like half a cork from a bottle. I am left clutching just the top half of the bloody thing, broken off in a jagged line halfway down, while the lower half drops smoothly out of the bottom and reappears as a distant and useless bit of flotsam a hundred yards away. I am going to die.

1440 – I have allowed myself to drift onto a nearby mudbank. I am two miles out to sea. Consider myself lucky that I am in a flat-bottomed dinghy at present. I take my anchor, newly bought in London, wade ankle-deep to the end of its warp and proudly stamp it home in the mud. I shall simply have to sit out here and wait for the tide to come in, cover the flats, and then drift or sail straight to the nearest bit of dry land when I’m ready. All shall be well and all shall be well and all manner of thing shall be well…

1447 – No it won’t. I am quickly freezing to death. Being soaked to the skin and sitting fully exposed to the North Sea gale is rendering me inexpressibly miserable. I need to be cool and resourceful yet again. I decide to rig my blue awning up over the boom, which is immediately and surprisingly effective in keeping the wind out; then I make myself a brand new centreboard out of some matchsticks, a safety-pin and an old gull’s wing.

Well, no, sorry, carried away there a little by the whole Allan Quatermain-ish idea of it, not out of those materials, but, almost as ingeniously, out of one of the duckboards that I use for sleeping on at night. This is the right thickness, but needs trimming to size with my Leatherman multi-purpose handy saw attachment, and then a hole drilling through the top so that I can jam a stout bit of rope through to make a handle.

I also rig up a much better arrangement to allow the mainsheet to run freely to ease off the mainsail. By the time the tide comes in, my little ship will be properly equipped to sail to shore with dignity.

Those tasks done, I have nothing to do but wait. There is nothing else for it. The usual solution. Hauling out my mattress and my sleeping bag, I fall fast asleep.

1630 – I awake. Jack is fully afloat and there seems to be a clear run to the shore about two miles away to the south. In that direction I can just make out what seems to be a long line of cottages above a strip of shingle, but I am reluctant to trust the dinghy to the vagaries of an exposed beach. Besides, there will be no pubs or B&Bs so far out of Whitstable.

Mackinnon collected the flags of many nations during his adventure across Europe. Here Jack de Crow is moored to a pontoon in Vienna. Photo: AJ Mackinnon

I stow my sleeping bag (damp), my mattress (damp), put on heavy-duty clothes (soaking), pack away the awning (sodden) and take in the anchor (damp but it doesn’t matter). I then hoist the sail, and begin the four-mile skim to Whitstable Harbour.

1633 – Bugger Whitstable Harbour. In three minutes I have hit five oyster beds and my Admiralty chart says quite distinctly that vessels grounding are liable to pay damages. Cottages it is. I can get there without having to lower the centreboard, and more importantly, before I die of hypothermia. It has begun to rain.

1707 – I have made it. I ground on the shingle with a rushing crunch, carried the last few yards by a sudden swoop of scum-topped wave. I am numb, exhausted and want nothing more than to find a hot bath, a mug of Bovril and a warm dry bed. But I can’t, not yet. The sea has dumped me on the steeply sloping beach only halfway up the tidal reach.

I can’t leave the dinghy here, but nor can I lift it any further up the shingle unaided. There is nothing for it but to spend another weary hour crouched shivering by Jack’s side and with every wave that comes swirling in, to float her another foot or two uphill. An hour later, and it is nearly dark. Finally she settles with a weary creak and scrape onto the dry shingle above the tide.

AJ (Sandy) Mackinnon

1815 – I climb, bone-weary, out of my sodden clothes and find some relatively dry ones to wear. In doing so, I discover the final insult of the day. I have lost my wallet, in all probability at the bottom of the sea. Well, thank you very much, God. That is positively the last time I sing hymns to you, mate… I may as well just lie here and let the herring gulls finish me off.

1820 –  An angel appears. It is not in the form of an elderly lady bearing brandy, dog leads and good advice, but an anthropology student called Arif. He takes me to his flat nearby, gives me two mugs of hot Bovril, loads up all my sodden luggage into his car and drives me into Whitstable. The B&B is utterly charming, but tonight I bitterly resent the fact that it is located right on the seafront, as I never want to see salt water again.

The human spirit is a funny old thing. The day has undeniably been a disaster. I am more tired than I knew it was possible to be. My left wrist, from 13 hours of gripping the mainsheet in icy conditions, is hurting abominably; my little ship is lying on a distant stretch of inhospitable shingle with a faulty main block, jury-rig centreboard and no bailer.

I’ve travelled all of seven miles. I have grown to loathe the sea. And as I lie between white linen sheets, and the rain drums on the windowpane and the old sea slap-slaps the wall beyond the darkness, I realise the oddest thing. I am happier than anybody else in the entire world.

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2 bodies found after boat capsized during Lake Superior fishing tournament

• Updated: Jun. 11, 2024, 5:05 p.m. |
• Published: Jun. 11, 2024, 10:43 a.m.

Waves crash on the eastern Keweenaw Peninsula shoreline in Michigan's Upper Peninsula near Gay on Thursday, May 19, 2022. (Cory Morse | MLive.com) Cory Morse | MLive.com

• Brandon Champion | [email protected]

BARAGA COUNTY, MI – Officials located the bodies of two missing fishermen in Lake Superior.

The U.S. Coast Guard, Michigan State Police and Houghton and Baraga County sheriff’s departments had been searching for the bodies after a 21-foot boat capsized during the Keweenaw Bay Classic Fishing Tournament on June 8.

The Michigan State Police told WLUC-TV that its marine services unit found both victims in 220 feet of water on Monday. The families have been notified, but names will not be released by police.

Five people were on the boat when it overturned near Second Sand Beach, but three of the people were rescued by another boat in the area.

Many of the boats stopped competing in the fishing tournament to look for their fellow fishermen and a GoFundMe has been created for the impacted team called “Give Heaven Some Fish” with more than $6,500 raised.

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Local News | Celtics Duck Boat rolling rally to be held…

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Local news | celtics duck boat rolling rally to be held friday after heat breaks.

The city announced this morning the parade will commence at 11 a.m. in front of TD Garden on Causeway Street, passing by City Hall Plaza and the Boston Common on Tremont Street, and ending on Boylston Street by the Hynes Convention Center.

The boats will be filled with Celtics players, owners, and staff, the city announcement stated.

Today will be the start of the hot and humid weather, with it feeling between 95 and 100 degrees. Then the peak of the heat wave should be on Wednesday and Thursday, as the heat indices spike to above 100 degrees and even to 106 in certain regions.

Friday? Cooler with the possibility of scattered showers of beer and champagne.

Mayor Michelle Wu and other officials are set to release further information later today.

After the Celtics won Banner 17 over the Lakers in 2008, roughly 16 boats took the champions from the Garden to Copley Square. Two flatbed trucks carried Celtics dancers, former Celtic greats, and champion trophies from past seasons.

Massachusetts faces brutal heat wave, may feel like 106 degrees; Michelle Wu declares heat emergency for Boston

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'He was so talented': US-born Olympic hopeful in kite foiling dies in diving accident

A rising U.S. born athlete who hoped to compete in the Paris 2024 Olympic Summer Games next month, died in a diving accident over the weekend, his family confirmed.

Jackson James Rice , who went by J.J., was 18 and competed in the sport kite foiling, according to information from his family and his Facebook page .

Kite foiling allows a person to "fly above the water on hydrofoils" attached to boards powered by large kites, according to the Royal Yachting Association , the national governing body for sports including sail cruising and sail racing. With a rider, boards can reach speeds up to 45 knots.

The athlete's father, Darren Rice, told the Matangi Tonga his son died of suspected shallow water blackout Saturday while free diving from a boat at Faleloa, Ha'apai.

Faleloa is in Tonga, an island country in Polynesia, part of Oceania.

Other divers found his body on the seafloor underneath the boat at about 12:15 p.m., the outlet reported, and attempts to resuscitate him failed.

USA TODAY has reached out to Rice's family.

Southwest plane almost hits ocean: FAA investigating after plane plunged within 400 feet of ocean near Hawaii

'I was blessed with the most amazing brother'

According to the newspaper, the athlete was born in the United States, grew up in Ha'apai and represented Tonga in kite foiling at international events "for several years."

In a Facebook post late last month, the late athlete wrote he competed in The Last Chance Reggata in Hyeres, France .

"This is where the remaining 5 spots for the Olympic games were to be handed out and everybody was on the top of their game and pushing to the absolute limit to qualify," J.J. Rice wrote May 25. "After a few mistakes on my part and not being able to keep with the front pack my Olympics dream for this Olympics cycle has come to an end, that doesn't mean it is the end for me. With another cycle just around the corner in 2028 I will be training as hard as possible."

In a Saturday post on Facebook, the late athlete's sister, Lily Rice, remembered her brother as a loving, amazing funny and unique individual with a global host of friends "because he was so lovable."

"I was blessed with the most amazing brother in the whole world and it pains me to say that he’s passed away," his sister posted in a tribute to her late brother. "He was so talented... He was an amazing kite foiler and he would have made it to the Olympics and come out with a big shiny medal and a even bigger smile."

Natalie Neysa Alund is a senior reporter for USA TODAY. Reach her at [email protected] and follow her on X @nataliealund.

Boat mechanic who tooled up with ingenuity & hard work turns heads

K OCHI : Experience counts. It is the engine that cranks out excellence. And that is what drives the likes of Manoharan K M, who is now the most sought-after country boat mechanic in all of central Kerala. The 55-year-old built up such a reputation that Honda company officials from Japan came calling and awarded him a dealership.

Hailing from Aroor, on the outskirts of Kochi, Manoharan was born to poor parents. The family situation forced him to take up a part-time job in an auto-rickshaw workshop at the age of 13!

“It was in the early 1980s that I started assisting Sura (who he fondly calls asan, or mentor), who owned an auto-repair workshop. Back-engine autos had not been introduced, and we were mainly working on front-engine brands, like the Lambretta. Asan was well versed in the work. But because of his drinking habit, he instructed me to take up most of the work. It became my passion,” recalls Manoharan.

Years rolled by and Sura retired, but not before handing over the workshop to his beloved pupil. Manoharan would often experiment with his ‘mechanical’ knowledge. One day, an elderly man approached him, asking him to fit an engine to his small country boat.

“That was the time when I wanted to do something new. He told me to make an effort and that it wouldn’t matter if I failed. I travelled to Ernakulam and bought a Honda engine and altered it to fit the boat. It was a success. Gradually, other country boat owners, mostly small-time fishermen, began to approach me,” recounts Manoharan, who dropped out of school after failing his 10th.

He was flooded with work orders. And it reached a point where despite working day and night customers had to wait for up to a month for deliveries. People came from different parts of the state after hearing about Manoharan through word of mouth.

Meanwhile, Honda officials called up their dealer in Ernakulam to enquire about the “spurt in sales”. This is when they heard about Manoharan and how he was fitting the company’s engines onto country boats. Initially, a team from Honda’s Delhi office visited him, followed by a delegation from Japan.

“They were surprised how I managed to alter the engine and generate the (output) drive to propel the boats using a handle. Their efforts at manufacturing mechanical-rowing engines hadn’t been a success. They had the theoretical know-how, but lacked my practical knowledge. The company saw this as an opportunity to rival Yamaha in the sector,” a beaming Manoharan says.

In 2016, another Honda team from Japan visited him during the launch of their new GX80 engine, the trial of which was carried out on the Arukutty backwaters in the presence of Manoharan. Soon the company awarded him a dealership and began inviting him to annual gatherings of dealers.

“In 2019, I travelled to Singapore. The company met all my expenses. This year, I attended the event in Goa,” he says.