sailboat pre launch checklist

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The Pre-Launch Checklist

Away we go. A well earned summer of sailing is fast upon us. If your boat isn’t already in the water, it will be soon. Amid all the excitement of launch day—your desire to be back in the water, and the boatyard’s eagerness to make room for another client (cha-ching)— there’s a chance something might get missed. A pre-launch checklist can help avoid spoiling the big day.

DAY BEFORE LAUNCH

Now is the time to check that the yard (or you) didn’t overlook anything.

1. Do a walk around. Check that your zincs, through hulls, prop shaft, prop, and all underwater hardware and fittings are all set.

2. Take photos clearly showing keel, strut, prop, transducers and any underwater fittings. This will be handy for future haulouts.

3. Check battery level and starter circuit. Recharge battery as needed.

4. Prepare sails, running rigging, anchor, fenders, dock lines, boat hooks, and deck gear for getting underway.

5. Lay out the parts and tools needed for final rig reassembly (if needed).

6. Make sure the big wrenches required for adjusting the packing gland are close at hand.

7. Check bilge pump operation.

8. Exercise seacocks, making sure you can open and close them. Close them all. (Forgetful types can choose to open the engine seacock now and skip Step 3, below.)

9. Check engine oil, gearbox oil, coolant reservoir, hoses and belts. If you winterized your boat, you’ll want to recommission the engine cooling system, as well as purge any antifreeze from your potable water plumbing.

10. Check rudder and steering system.

11. If the drive train has been serviced, check the prop-shaft coupling (see Step 6, below).

12. Check in with the lift operator regarding launch procedures.

IN LAUNCH BASIN

These checks often take place with the Travelift on stand-by with slings slack —and well clear of the propellor—or when the boat is warped to an adjacent check-out slip.

1. Check shaft packing gland (see PS February 2019, “Stuffing Box Care” ). If it is dripping excessively, tighten just until it stops. Even dripless prop shaft seals should be checked.

2. Check all through hulls. This includes through-hull transducers and rudder shaft seal.

3. Open the engine intake seacock.

4. Start engine. Check for cooling water being expelled in the exhaust. Inspect the engine for fuel, exhaust, or water pump leaks.

5. Secure the boat to check engine in forward and reverse gear. Re-check stuffing box for leaks while in gear. A regular 3-4 drips every minute is usually fine. Check that the locknut for the packing compression nut is holding fast.

6. If you’ve pulled the propeller shaft or worked on the shaft coupling, observe the coupling in reverse gear under moderate load. If the shaft set screw is not properly set, the shaft can pull out in reverse (don’t ask how I know this).

7. Monitor engine temperature and operation.

8. Give the Travel-lift operator the all-clear.

Most yards have a dockside slip available so you can again go through some of the above steps and make any additional checks. Use this time to double-check all the underwater components and the engine operation.

Every boat is a little different so you will likely have your own routine. Boats with more sophisticated systems like watermakers and generators will have additional checks, although many of these can be carried out in your slip, mooring, or at anchor. Feel free to share your own launch list or add to mine.

Happy splash-day!

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On watch: this 60-year-old hinckley pilot 35 is also a working girl.

If you open the cooling water seacock before starting the engine in many cases it won’t draw water; the intake hose needs to be primed with water with seacock closed. Once in the water, as soon as the engine is started open the seacock and check that water is coming out the exhaust. It may take a few seconds for water to start coming out.

So exactly how do you prime the cooling hose with water??

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The Ultimate Pre-Sail Checklist (38 Steps)

Getting on a sailboat and cruising the open waters with your close family and friends is one of the greatest feelings of knowing how to sail. However, making sure your sailboat is in a safe state to do so is of the utmost importance when ensuring the safety of everyone on board. That’s why going through a thorough pre-sail checklist before setting sail on your next sailing trip can have a huge impact.

So what’s included in the pre-sail checklist? Ensuring your sailboat is safe in terms of having a healthy hull, well-maintained engine, functioning safety equipment, the proper housekeeping items, an operational dinghy, and spare parts will help out you and your crew tremendously before setting sail.

All in all, you want to know that everything on your sailboat is in good order and working properly.

It’s also a good time to check the location of all your essential sailing equipment , learn about the differences between of your sailboat and others’, know where the safety gear is located for you and the crew, and familiarize your crew with your sailboat in general.

Hull Checks

The health of your sailboat’s hull is incredibly important before setting out to sail and is on the top of the pre-sail checklist.

Essentially, the hull ensures that your sailboat stays afloat and does not let water in. Ensuring your sailboat has a healthy hull means you’re likely to be ready for a great sailing adventure!

1. Location and Condition of Thru-Hull Fittings

Knowing where and under which conditions the sailboat’s hull fittings is important since these are the likely locations where water can find it’s way into the sailboat.

Hull fittings are used to pass items, like electrical cables and sewage, through the hull.

2. Thru-Hulls and Seacocks Operate Properly

The thru-hulls and seacocks of your sailboat must operate easily since this is where water will flow through your hull.

It’s important to make sure the hoses connected to the seacocks are in good condition and the hose clamps are well-fitted.

3. Spare Hose Clamps Should Be Carried

Every sailboat should have spare hose clamps so that, in case of an emergency where they break, you’ll have backups ready to go.

Ideally, your sailboat should have two or three of each size needed on your sailboat.

4. Thru-Hull Plugs Attached to Each Seacock

All of your sailboat’s seacocks should have plugs attached to them in case they need to be plugged in an emergency.

Removing the chances of excess water getting into your sailboat is very important.

5. Bilges Are Clean and Dry

An essential item on your sailing checklists is to check if the bilges are clean and dry. The water that doesn’t drain off the side of the deck or through a thru-hull will typically end up in the bilge.

6. Bilge Pumps Are Operational

It’s common for a sailboat to collect some water in the bilge and it’s important that you’re able to properly remove that water.

A well-functioning bilge pump will ensure excess water in the bilge is removed from your sailboat.

7. Grab Rails, Life-Lines in Good Condition

The grab rails and lifelines surrounding your sailboat should be securely fastened and in good condition.

When the moment occurs when someone’s got to grab onto something while on deck, they’ll likely be grabbing and holding on to these to avoid going overboard.

Engine Checks

An essential set of checks that you’ll want to go through are those involving your sailboat’s engine.

Even though you’re on a sailboat, you’ll be using your engine guaranteed so you’ll want it to be in good condition. That’s why it’s included in the pre-sail checklist.

8. Engine Warning Lights and Alarms Working

Making sure the engine warning lights and alarms are working is important so that you’re alerted promptly and accurately when an issue arises with your sailboat’s engine.

9. Emergency Stopping of a Runaway Engine

If there’s ever the case when you need to kill your engine right away, you’ll need to be able to cut it off immediately.

Ensure your sailboat’s engine kill switch or fuel cut off is working properly before setting sail.

10. Steering and Shift Mechanisms in Good Condition

Taking a look at the functionality of your sailboat’s steering and shifting abilities is an important item for all sailing checklists since you’ll be using these quite often while out on the water.

11. Sufficient Amount of Fuel

Having a decent amount of fuel for your sailboat is important because you will be using your engine when sailing.

A reasonable margin of safety is approximately one-third (1/3) of a tank, but that depends on the size of your sailboat.

12. Fuel System Free of Leaks

If you have enough fuel in your sailboat, you’ll want to make sure you aren’t leaking any of it. Before taking your sailboat out on the water, check to see if there are any leaks in the fuel lines.

13. Engine Oil and Transmission Fluid Levels Correct

One of the most important engine checks is taking a look at the oil and transmission fluid levels. At the very least they should be looking clean and well above the minimum capacity.

14. Cooling Water Full

Keeping your engine cool is essential when chugging along, so you’ll need to ensure that the cooling water for your sailboat is full.

Some sailboats take in raw water from the seawater and some are a closed loop system, so check this out before setting sail.

15. Belt Tension Correct and in Good Condition

A very important pre-sail checklist item is to make sure the belt tension on your engine is snug and it’s in good condition.

If you can tell that it’s old, damaged, and worn out, you want to replace this ASAP.

Safety Equipment

Any pre-sail checklist wouldn’t be complete without a proper and thorough check of all your sailboat’s essential safety gear .

From fire extinguishers to flashlights to first aid kits to VHF radio, everything needs to be working properly in case of an unfortunate emergency. Here’s what to look at before setting sail.

16. Safety Equipment Has Not Expired

All of the equipment on board your sailboat must be in-date and, thus, not passed the expiry date. Anything that’s getting close or has already passed should be replaced immediately before setting sail.

17. Fire Extinguishers Are In-Date

This is already a part of the previous step, but it’s so important that it needs its own part of the checklist.

Be absolutely 100% sure your fire extinguishers are in date and not expired. You might be surrounded by water, but that doesn’t mean your sailboat can’t catch fire.

18. Signal Flares and Other Signaling Devices

Ensuring your signal flares and other signaling devices are useable and in-date is extremely important.

In the case that you need to alert passerby sailboats, ships, or planes, these will be essential when doing just that.

19. Life Jacket Suitable for Each Person on Board

One of the most important items to have on a pre-sail checklist is making sure you have enough life jackets of varying sizes on your sailboat.

These life jackets should be readily available and in good condition. In many places around the world, it’s illegal not to have enough life jackets on board.

20. MOB Equipment and Throwable Flotation

Having man overboard (MOB) equipment and throwable flotation devices readily available on your sailboat is incredibly important in case one of your crew members goes overboard.

Man overboard drills require these equipment items, so having them is an absolute must.

21. Flashlight with Extra Batteries

Keeping a few flashlights handy on board your sailboat can be useful for many reasons especially when cruising during the evenings and sleeping on your sailboat.

I like to bring an LED headlamp with me whenever I go overnight sailing for midnight head (toilet) run.

22. Horn Working

Just like in a car, there might be a situation when you’ll need to use your sailboat’s horn.

If you need to communicate with other vessels, signaling back and forth via sound is common especially under poor visibility and potentially malfunctioning VHF equipment.

23. First Aid Kit

An essential part of the pre-sail checklist is to ensure you have a first aid kit filled with the proper supplies.

Some of those supplies include sunscreen, pain relievers, special medication for the crew, sea sickness medicine, and potentially other items.

24. VHF Working

Whenever you’re sailing out on the water, you’ll need to make sure your VHF is working properly and in good condition.

Being able to communicate with other vessels is essential for ensuring the safety of your crew, boat, and neighboring sailors.

Housekeeping Items

Having a few housekeeping items will help increase the probability of having a safe voyage when out on the water sailing.

These pre-sail checklist items are essential and should be inspected every time you set off on your sailboat.

25. Water Tanks Full

A full water tank means you’ll have enough fresh water for you and the rest of your crew.

In case you run out, you’ll want to also make sure to bring on board some extra bottled water for emergencies.

26. Propane Gas

Having enough propane on board your sailboat is an important item on your checklist since you’ll need it for cooking and heating on your sailboat.

Propane tanks should be stored outside in a locker that has a drain.

27. Taps or Faucets Working

The taps and faucets in your sailboat should be working properly so that you have fresh water coming out of them.

If you have tanks full of fresh water but no access to them, that’s a big problem and should be avoided.

28. Heads Flushing or Pumping

No one wants to see what you’ve been up to in the bathroom, so making sure your heads are flushing or pumping properly is an essential pre-sail checklist item.

29. Ample Food and Water

You never know what’s waiting for you on your next sailing adventure, which means you should have plenty of food and water stored away.

Having a mix of food that needs to be cooked or not is a good idea as well as having a good amount that isn’t perishable.

A dinghy is great to have on board a sailboat for a number of reasons. Maybe you’ll need it in an emergency.

Maybe you’ll need it to take you on shore when anchoring out.

Or maybe you’ll want it to just go out and explore the area. Either way, you’ll need to make sure your dinghy’s in good shape before taking it out , which is why it’s a part of the pre-sail checklist.

30. Stowed Properly

You don’t want your dinghy to fall off of your sailboat for whatever reason resulting in you having to chase it. To avoid this, make sure your dingy is properly stored.

31. If Inflatable, Ensure It’s in Working Order

If your dinghy is inflatable, you’ll want to make sure there aren’t any leaks and that it’s working properly.

It’s not uncommon for leaks to pop up in inflatable dinghies, so this is an important item for your pre-sail checklist.

32. Paddles or Oars

In case your dinghy dies on you while you’re cruising around on it, you definitely will want some paddles or oars to get your back to your sailboat.

Outboard motors can suddenly stop working meaning you’ll need another form of energy to get back. Of course, if you have a sail for your dingy , that would be beneficial.

33. Outboard Motor Maintained and Stowed Properly

The outboard motor on your dinghy is how you’ll be scooting around in it, so ensuring it’s well-maintained and stowed properly is important.

Giving it a proper check from time to time would also be ideal.

34. Safety Equipment for Dinghy

Having safety gear on your dinghy is important and should be available to everyone easily. First aid kit, life jackets, and more can make huge differences when you need them.

35. Sufficient Fuel

Before setting out sailing, you’ll want to make sure your dingy has enough gasoline (or petrol) so it doesn’t suddenly die on you when scooting around. I’ve seen this happen too many times!

36. Bailing Device

There’s no question you’ll be getting a bit of water inside your dinghy when you take it out, so you always want to make sure that you have the necessary bailing devices to get that water out.

Pumps and/or buckets should do just fine.

General Considerations

37. keep spares.

There are a number of spare parts your sailboat should have on board to increase the chances of having a well-prepared response to any issues while out on the water.

Some spare parts to keep handy include:

• Oil filters
• Water impellers
• Lubrication oil
• Transmission fluids
• Hose clamps
• Engine hoses
• Flexible fuel line
• Air filters
• Engine drain plugs
• Spark plugs
• Lightbulbs or LEDs
• Electrical tape
• Screws, nuts, and bolts
• Two-part epoxy
• Wooden plugs
• Silicon sealant
• Electrical connectors
• WD-40 or slick lube

38. Regular Activities

• Maintenance schedule
• Allocate crew mooring duties
• Night sail procedures
• New crew orientation
• Monitoring the weather route

Final Thoughts

Following pre-sailing checklists (as well as post-sailing checklists) is extremely important when it comes to the safety of your and your crew’s well-being.

It’s not very glamorous and may feel like a chore, but it’s necessary and gives you a better understanding of your sailboat’s condition and abilities.

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The Complete Boat Launch Checklist, from Paperwork to Equipment

Are you completely ready for a fun day on the water? Or do you have that nagging feeling that you've left something behind? Check your list first!

Without a pre-launch checklist, you might forget something important. After all, who wants a forgotten item or a neglected mistake to ruin your boat outing? Be prepared and that won't happen. 

On the water, even something simple can turn into a tragedy. As my dad always said, You can never be too careful or too prepared. There's just no such thing as being too prepared, right?

So, whether you're towing your boat to the water  or you're lucky enough to live right there, these checkpoints will jog your memory even on your busiest days.

With this simple pre-launch boat checklist, you won't miss something important. If you go down the list, you can prepare for all those fun get-togethers on the water with no regrets or worries. Let's get started.

The Complete Boat Launch Checklist

1. Check the Paperwork

• Proper/valid title work
• Valid registration(s)
• Paid mandatory fees
• Paid mandatory taxes
• Valid driver's license
• Your boat owner's manual
• Your trailer owner's manual
• Safe and waterproof container for all paperwork to avoid damage

There's nothing like a ticket to ruin your day (not to mention having to cancel plans). Make sure all of these items are valid , up to date and on hand .

Having them get destroyed by water is a real risk too, so as noted above, be sure to store them in a  safe, waterproof container (check price on Amazon) where you can access them easily.

Don't forget this, either: Many states require boat operators to take and pass educational boating courses. Some even require a boating license . Check here to see what your state requires .

2. Check the Emergency Kit

• Jumper cables
• Waterproof flashlights
• Marine spotlights
• Screwdriver, wrench, hammer ( basic tool kit )
• Fire extinguisher (check expiration date and workability)
• Medical supplies ( basic first aid kit )
• Life vests for each person on board - Check weight limits for each one
• Life vests for any animals on board
• Extra floating pillows and life rings
• Emergency ladder
• Inflatable boat for emergencies
• Tire inflator/pump/compressor
• Emergency dried food items
• Emergency survival blankets
• Towing ropes  and dock lines
• Bug repellent
• Extra towels
• Non-slip water shoes

While these are just a few suggested items, it's a great idea to invest in an emergency kit that contains all the tools and first aid supplies you need.

This complete roadside emergency kit (check price on Amazon)   has most of the above items and then some. Plus, you can keep it in your car while towing your boat back and forth from the dock. If you get stranded, you'll be glad to have this on hand!

You really shouldn't launch without these items or all your safety equipment (click here for a complete list of recommended items) . Don't be lazy and leave off a few things. It's always better to be safe than sorry, as the saying goes. You never know what can happen on the water or during towing.

Planning ahead is a smart move. And if something happens, your family will thank you (Pat on the back, here!). There are even laws requiring some of them, so check with your state.

These items should be in good condition and good working order. Make sure you not only have them all, but inspect each one thoroughly.

3. Check the Loose Boat Items

Don't laugh at me. I've lost many nice items that flew out of our boat because they weren't secure (I was sick when my young twins' matching outfits flew out! No, we never found them). So, learn from my experience and secure your items.

Here's a list of some items you need to be sure are secured:

• Boat cover (securely tightened or removed, folded, and stored)
• Coolers, grills, chairs, dog bowls and beds, food, drinks
• Umbrellas, awnings, canopies, r od holder cutting boards
• Floating pillows, throw cushions, life rings, life vests
• Recreational items (skis, inner tubes, etc.)
• Boat fenders

4. Check the Trailer

• Visually check for any blemishes, bumps, slits or holes.
• Perform the Penny Test . Using a penny, you can check tread depth.
• Check inflation/pressure. Tires shouldn't be overinflated or underinflated, so check your owner's manual for the recommended pressure.
• Check your spare tire. Don't forget, as you never know when you'll need it!
• Check your tie-down straps .

Check Price on Amazon - Better Boat's ratchet straps are made of stainless steel and high-density nylon for strength, reliability, and weather resistance. The ratchet design makes an effortless task of loading and unloading. 

5. Check the Boat

• All round light
• Stern light
• Towing rope(s)
• Anchor rope(s)  and chain
• Docking rope(s)

Be sure to inspect each rope for frays and tears. If one looks iffy, replace it. Don't take a chance. 

 Check Price on Amazon - Better Boat's dock lines are made of durable double-braided nylon to offer shock absorbency and elasticity. They're smooth to the touch for snag and scratch resistance. 

The hull is hugely important. If you don't know much about your hull, read this first . Then you'll understand why it's important to check it.

Here's what you need to check for:

• Possible cracks
• Possible holes or gauges
• Any blemish/knots/bulges that may be concerning

Are your electrical systems safe for a day on the water? Your owner's manual is a good guide for this. It can tell you what to look for and how to check each item.

If you're still not sure, check the internet for specific instructions on your boat model and year. Make sure to check these:

• Battery (wouldn't hurt to have an extra one!)
• Look for any corrosion
• Check starters
• Check your boat engine
• If your boat's already in the water, crank it to see if it's running properly before launching.
• If it's on dry land, you can do a flush test with a flush kit . Here's a tutorial  in case you're not sure how to do it.

Word of warning : Don't be stubborn. If you're not sure how to check your electrical system, or the engine, hire an experienced boat mechanic to do it for you. You can watch and learn for next time. Even if he charges a small fee, that's better than huge repair bills.

Learn how now, so you can repeat it later. Neglecting to secure boat and/or trailer parts can cause damage and cost money. You can avoid all those headaches if you take time to check them all.

Here's a list to start with:

• Ensure that windshields and windows are closed and/or locked
• Secure any movable seats
• Support/prop engine to prevent jarring
• Secure/fold in mirrors
• Check/secure coupler
• Raise/check trailer tongue
• Check lug nuts for tightness and lubrication
• Check all latches and hooks
• Check chains and cables
• Steering fluid
• Hydraulic fluids
• Brake fluid
• Water levels

Be sure to have extra gas and fluids stored on the boat and in your vehicle. 

These are must-haves so you don't get stranded! I know all too well what that's like. I got stranded once, and my parents used it to teach me a valuable lesson.

While teens, a friend and I got stranded on a little island near our home all because we didn't check the gas or bring any with us. Our parents knew we were okay, so they left us there a while to teach us a lesson. And I learned one, too!

A severe sunburn added to my lesson (Yes, I forgot sunscreen, too). That burned, peeling skin was a lingering reminder that I needed a checklist next time I went out on the boat. 

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Pre-Launch Checklist

A complete guide of your pre-launch checklist. follow these tips for safely loading, backing down the ramp, and launching your boat..

• January 29, 2024

1. Move coolers, waterski/tubing/wakeboarding equipment from the tow vehicle to the boat. If your passengers need to use the facilities, this is the time to do it — not when the boat is at the bottom of the ramp and others in line are waiting. Don’t move the boat down the ramp until all your crew has arrived, and the boat is fully loaded. If it’s a short dock, trying to tackle these tasks once the boat is launched can obstruct other boaters trying to launch/retrieve.

2. Disconnect the tie-down across the gunwales and the transom tie-downs. Keep the boat attached to the trailer with both the winch on the bow eye and the safety chain on the bow eye. You’ll remove those once at the water — not sooner because the boat could slide off the trailer while descending the boat ramp incline. If you prefer, disconnect the trailer lights from the tow vehicle.

3. Install the drain plug. Remove the transom saver if you use one. This may also be the time to lower the outboard, or sterndrive if it won’t bottom out on the way down the ramp.

4. Roll down the windows in the tow vehicle and have everyone (and pets) get out of the vehicle before you back down the ramp. This is done in the event the tow vehicle goes into the water; you will be able to escape when the power windows become inoperable. This is also the one time when it makes sense to remove your seat belt, should you need to make that quick escape. Have someone keep an eye on the youngsters to ensure they don’t run across the ramp while someone else is backing or retrieving a trailer.

5. Position the trailer at the top of the ramp and slowly back down.

6. If the trailer jackknifes or becomes difficult to straighten, go back up the ramp a little way and start again. It’s easier.

When backing the boat trailer, put your hand on the bottom of the steering wheel. When your hand moves left or right, the trailer will go in the same direction.

7. Once you’ve reached the water level where the boat can be launched, put the truck in park, set the parking brake, and chock the front wheels of the truck if you need extra support.

8. Remove the winch strap/cable hook from the bow eye and the safety chain and push the boat into the water while your crew holds docklines attached to both bow and stern.

9. Move the boat to the end of the dock — or, if possible, to the opposite side of the dock away from the boat ramp.

10. Once the boat is safely off the trailer, pick up the wheel chocks, release the parking brake and drive the tow vehicle up the ramp, and park in a designated area for boat trailers.

Contributor, BoatUS Magazine

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Your Pre-Launch Checklist

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Before you head out for your first foray this year, run through this countdown to make sure all systems are a go.

Cutless bearing.

Grab your prop shaft and shake it vigorously from side to side and up and down. More than just a little bit of movement means the bearing needs to be replaced. A worn cutless bearing can cause problems ranging from annoying vibrations to a damaged prop shaft. You can't replace the cutless bearing while the boat is in the water, so if it shows signs of wear, do it before you launch.

Engine/Drive Unit

Cracked blocks and manifolds from water left in the engine over the winter are the most common freeze-damage claims for BoatUS Marine Insurance. Lower units can also be damaged if water trapped inside freezes and expands, cracking the housing or causing seals to fail and draining the oil. Before you even move your boat, inspect the engine for any signs of freeze damage, such as cracks, rust streaks, leaking oil, or puddles. Check underneath the lower unit on an I/O or outboard to make sure there are no suspicious oil spots. If you find anything that doesn't look right, have it checked before even thinking about launching your boat. Yes, the damage is already done, but you could make things a whole lot worse if you try to run the engine.

Shaft Seal/Stuffing Box/Bellows

Wherever mechanical parts pass through the hull — such as the prop shaft on an inboard, or the shift cable, drive shaft, and exhaust on an I/O — water will be looking for a way to get in. Failed bellows and shaft logs are two of the most common causes of sinking in the BoatUS Marine Insurance claim files. Even if they looked fine in the fall, carefully inspect them now, before your boat goes in the water. Check your bellows on your I/O before you launch with the sterndrive raised and lowered, looking for cracks or sea life, such as barnacles or oysters, that are sharp enough to tear it open. If one bellows is bad, they should all be replaced. On an inboard, watch the shaft seal or stuffing box when the boat is launched. No water should come through a dripless shaft seal. A stuffing box should allow a couple of drops a minute through when the engine is running, and little or no water when it's not.

Bilge Pump And Switch

The best way to make sure your pump and switch have survived the winter intact is to do what Mother Nature would do — add some water to your bilge. You'll instantly know if all parts of your system are working. If not, check electrical connections at the pump and switch, which is the most common area for failure.

Control Cables

Throttle, shift, and steering cables slide inside a sheath, so it's hard to see their condition. Grab hold of one and twist it around. If you hear crunchy sounds, the cable is rusty inside and needs to be replaced.

Electrical Connections

A faulty electrical connection can leave you stranded on your first day. Make sure your battery cables are tight and free from corrosion. If you had flickering lights or odd electrical problems last season, your gremlins are probably due to loose wires or connections. Give a tug on your connections to check for tightness. Better to have them come apart now than out on the water.

Check Fluids

Even if you changed the lower-unit oil last fall, verify that it's still topped up. Check the engine, transmission, and trim-tab oil and any hydraulic fluids your boat may have. If there's less in there than when you laid up in the fall, you need to find the reason why before simply topping up.

Hoses And Thru-hulls

Check every one of your hoses and thru-hulls before your boat goes in the water. Over time, seacocks get stiff and may not be able to be closed when you really need them — like when water is gushing into the boat through a split hose. Make sure every seacock opens and closes freely, and take a look at the hoses and clamps as well. In fact, do more than take a look — give the hoses a firm, twisting tug to find any hoses and clamps that are past their prime.

Cockpit Drains

Over the winter, your cockpit and deck drains may have accumulated a lot of crud, from leaves and dirt to critters. A clogged or slow cockpit drain can sink a boat, especially an older one that might already be squatting lower in the water. Send a high-pressure burst of water from a hose into each drain to make sure it runs free. While you're checking how fast it drains, inspect the thru-hull fitting as well. Plastic fittings degrade in the sun; if they crack, they can sink a boat.

Safety Gear

First, check your required flares — they may have hit their expiration date over the winter (flares expire 42 months after manufacture and are marked with the date). Next, locate your fire extinguishers and make sure the pressure gauge is still in the green. Check that you have enough life jackets, they're the right sizes for your expected crew (do they still fit the kids or grandkids?), and they're in good shape with no damage or heavy mildew. If you have sleeping accommodations on a boat with a gas engine or propane stove, make sure there's a working carbon-monoxide alarm, most can be tested like a smoke alarm by pressing the test button. Also, take the opportunity to make a test call on your boat's VHF and on your handheld, if you have one (you can call your local TowBoatUS for a radio check). DSC-equipped VHF radios have a test button.

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Charles Fort

Contributing Editor, BoatUS Magazine

Charles Fort is BoatUS Magazine's West Coast Editor. He often writes local news items for BoatUS Magazine's Waypoints column and contributes to Reports, in-depth tech features in every issue written to help readers avoid accidental damage to their boats. He is a member of the National Association of Marine Surveyors, he's on ABYC tech committees, and has a 100-ton U.S. Coast Guard license. He lives in California.

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• Boat Handling
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Spring pre-launch checklist

Before launching your boat this season, follow this spring pre-launch checklist.

• Inspect and lubricate seacocks.
• Inspect and replace hoses and hose clamps as needed.
• Replace worn or deteriorated zincs.
• Inspect props for dings, pitting and distortion. Make sure cotter pins are secure. Grip the prop and try moving the shaft; if it’s loose, the cutlass bearing may need to be replaced.
• Make sure the rudderstock isn’t bent.
• Inspect the hull for blisters, distortions and stress cracks.
• Make sure the engine intake sea strainer is properly secured and corrosion-free.
• Check the engine shaft and rudder stuffing boxes for looseness. After launch, recheck these items and through-hulls for leaks.
• Use a hose to check for deck leaks at ports and hatches. Renew caulk or gaskets as needed.
• Inspect rubber outdrive bellows for cracked, dried or deteriorated spots (especially in the folds); replace if suspect.
• Check power steering and power trim oil levels.
• Inspect the outer jacket of control cables. Cracks or swelling indicate corrosion; if present, replace the cable.

–John McMullen

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Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Boat checklist: 27 checks for the start of the season

• Katy Stickland
• March 12, 2022

Prepare properly for getting back afloat, and you and your boat will be ready for a trouble-free season, Rubicon 3 Adventure’s John Manners shares his boat checklist

A good waggle should reveal if the prop, shaft or P-bracket are all tight and secure. Credit: Rubicon 3 Adventure

With the days beginning to lengthen, February to April is the time to be getting your yacht ready for the season ahead, writes John Manners .

Preparation now is the key to a stress-free summer on the water.

Pre-season checks and maintenance should be a rewarding process, in which you learn more about your boat, develop some extra skills and see the rewards of your efforts.

Getting ready for the season can be divided into three distinct phases. Pre-launch (assuming your yacht is on the hard), post-launch checks, and a shake-down sail.

The pre-launch checks we cover below are the most critical to get done because the cost and inconvenience of having to lift a yacht back out again can be high.

Be ready to check all through hulls while in the sling. Credit: Alamy Stock Photo

Your hull , including your keel, skeg/and rudder, needs a good, thorough check over. Any issues that need fixing can be time consuming and GRP work needs suitable temperatures.

Once your yacht is launched, you’ll want to do a full systems check.

John Manners is chief engineer at the Marine Engineers for Rubicon 3 Adventure sailing (www.rubicon3 adventure.com). He served 24 years in the Royal Navy, finishing as a Chief Petty Officer. Credit: Rubicon 3 Adventures

You really should have your own specific boat checklist, so that you can be thorough and time efficient.

You can use our lists below as a good starting point if you don’t have one.

There’s always a surprising amount to check, so put a full day aside and ensure you find the issues now, not when you’re out on the water.

Finally, a boat can only really be signed off as season-ready once it has had a sail.

This is when the boat comes alive and all the stresses and strains will reveal if there are any as-of-yet undiscovered issues.

If there are any problems then a good day sail and overnight anchor should weed them out and, while any issues can be frustrating, at least they’ve been found before your first proper sail of the season.

Finally, when you finish this season, while they’re still fresh in your mind, make a list of any issues to fix before the next season and get the yacht properly winterised.

Boat checklist: On the hard

Check anodes and if electrically bonded, check it is working. Credit: Rubicon 3 Adventures

• Check hull for any cracks, delamination, corrosion (if metal), and impact damage and get repaired.
• Scrape test all through hull fittings to expose any corrosion. Exercise and grease the valves.
• The propeller should be tight and blade bearings smooth when you rotate them.
• Ensure the P-bracket (if you have one) is secure and there is no play in the bearings here or in the stern tube. If you have a sail drive , check the diaphragm and gaiter.
• Check your rudder bearings are in good shape.
• Give the hull a thorough anti-foul and change all the anodes.
• Clean any keel coolers.
• Make sure your log is clean and rotates freely.
• Protect your prop with one of the many products available.
• If you have a bow thruster, make sure it is operational and has been serviced.

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Boat checklist: Post launch checks

A radio check (not on Ch 16) is appropriate for the start of the season. Credit: Rubicon 3 Adventures

• Check all through-hull fittings for leaks before you are released from the slings.
• Fire up your engine , heating and generator if you have one and give them all a good service.
• If you have a battery tester, check each battery individually. If not, companies such as Barden UK will often test your batteries free of charge.
• Get your marine gas system tested and signed off (this is not something to skimp on).
• Check your fire extinguishers are in date, have pressure and are in good condition.
• Make sure your liferaft and lifejackets have been serviced and your hydrostatic release units (if you use them) are in date, along with your flares.
• Check your lee cloths are in good condition and well attached
• Make sure hatches and other slippery surfaces on deck have anti-slip tape on them in good condition.
• Make sure jackstays are in good condition and tight.

Boat checklist: Getting an annual gas inspection is a check that should not be skipped. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

• Guard wires should be tight and the lashings in good condition.
• Leak test your hatches and portlights. If they do leak, it’s not often that big a job to re-bed them or replace seals, but a damp boat is miserable.
• Fire up the electronics . You should see a GPS position within 10-20 seconds and if you have an AIS transponder, you should see yourself on a website such as Marinetraffic.com in less than 10 minutes.
• Make sure the charts are reasonably up to date – and do carry paper ones, even if they are of a fairly small scale. You’ll also want this year’s almanac for tidal and marina information.
• Carry out a VHF radio check to make sure it is working.
• You’ll also want to check your tools (which can all too easily get rusty and inoperable) and your emergency spares like spare impeller, oil, coolant and wooden bungs.
• Carry a small first aid kit, and check it’s in date and complete.
• Now the yacht is in the water, you can also get a rigger to give your boat rig the once over and ask them to check your furling system is working nicely and been serviced if required.

An emergency kit can rust and become inoperable. Make sure to check it before going sailing. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

Boat checklist: Shake down sail

Practice key manoeuvres on your first sail of the season. Credit: Richard Langdon

It’s time to get a couple of friends and family down to the boat and go for a sail.

You need to try and use every function on the boat, so pick a nice day when you can get all the sail up, the oven on, the anchor out and the nav and anchor lights used.

All going well, everything is ship shape, but if not, better to find out now.

Your marina handling skills (and confidence) may be a bit low so go easy on yourself (and you crew!) and give yourself time to hone your skills.

Make a cuppa and test your domestic systems. Credit: Richard Langdon

If everything is working fine, this sail is also a good opportunity to do a couple of  man overboard drills, picking up a mooring buoy, getting the pole up and doing some navigation and tidal calculations.

Also rehearse making a MAYDAY call, fighting a fire and dealing with a CO alarm.

Faded skills affect everyone, so recognise that you do need to keep on practising these skills.

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Pre Launch Checklist

• Pre-Season Checklist
• Semi Annual Checklist

330 National Road Southwest, Reynoldsburg, OH, 43068

Personal Flotation Devices

• Have at least one Coast Guard-approved device per passenger and a minimum of two on board.
• An additional throwable device is required if the vessel is more than 16 feet long.
• Explain the location and use of all floataion devices to passengers and crew that may be new to the vessel.

Sound Producing Devices

• Have a horn capable of producing a four-second blast audible for at least 1/2 mile on board.
• If you use portable air horn, have a spare can of air or an alternate device.
• Attach a whistle to each Personal Floataion Device.

Lights and Shapes

• Check all navigation lights as required for your boat.
• Make sure all instruments and instrument lights are working.
• If you intend to engage in diving or other activity that requires a day-shape, have the required shapes on board.
• Have aboard a flashlight and spare batteries.  Check it to be sure it works well, replace batteries as needed.

Distress Signals

• Make flares, day signals, etc., accessible and ensure they are stored in a dry location.
• Carry signals at all times even if not required by the Coast Guard.
• Educate the crew and passengers of their location and safety rules for proper usage.

Tools and Spares

• Carry a basic toolbox with tools appropriate for your boat.
• Carry a box of spare parts including fuel filter, light bulbs, head parts, through-hull plugs, etc.

Fuel and Oil

• Top off your fuel tanks.
• If you can’t, make sure you have more than enough fuel for your return trip.
• Check the engine oil and coolant levels. 

Fire Extinguishers

• Carry at least one fire extinguisher and make sure it is accessible. Make sure you have at least the number required by Coast Guard rules.
• Check to be sure mounts are secure and functional before departure.
• Take the time to point out locations to passengers and crew.

Ventilation

• On any powered vessel or auxiliary powered sailboat, or vessels using LPG for cooking or heat, check that all interior spaces are well ventilated before departure.
• If fuel smells are detected before ventilating, check after running the blowers for several minutes before starting.
• If odor persists, shut down the engine and look for the source of the leak.
• Check to be sure bilges are reasonably dry and that pumps are not running excessively.
• Clean up any spilled oil or waste in bilges to prevent overboard discharge.

Weather Forecast

• Always check the weather forecast before boating.
• Have a radio on board to receive weather updates.
• Have an exit plan in mind to get yourself to the nearest safe harbor 

Battery Care

• If you have a dual charging system, make sure the selector switch in the proper position.
• Make sure the power is on to the entire vessel.
• Have aboard spare batteries for accessories such as your handheld radio, flashlight, portable navigational aid, etc.
• If the batteries are rechargeable, make sure they’re charged.

Docking and Anchoring Tips

• Have at least one anchor set up and bent-on to your anchor line.
• Carry two or three extra dock lines in case you encounter unusual conditions dockside.
• Visually inspect the lines you use for chafe or wear.
• Carry at least two fenders on-board for docking or towing if required.

Rules & Documentation

• Have the ship’s papers, radio license, fishing permit, etc. on board.
• Have the chart or charts for the area you intend to cruise in, regardless of your level of local knowledge.

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• Ultimate Boating Giveaway

Spring Fitting Out Checklist for Your Boat

• By Green Brett
• Updated: April 5, 2018

As you prepare to go about your rites of spring, think about two of the most basic tenets of safe and enjoyable sailing: keeping the water out and making sure the vessel ­functions properly. In the crush of fitting out at the start of the season or before an extended voyage, there are numerous details that go along with adhering to these two ­principles. But carefully looking over your pre-launch checklist and preparing things like through-hulls and steering, and giving the engine a thorough going-over, can go a long way toward ­hassle-free enjoyment afloat.

While it’s easier to check the following items with the boat still on the hard, you should be able to inspect and service critical systems even if you’re a full-time liveaboard and the boat’s in the water. Here then, is the fitting out to-do list I use on a ­periodic basis.

Through-hulls should actuate smoothly. The older cone-shaped valves can be easily disassembled and greased, while ball valves respond well to some grease applied from the outside while they are closed (be sure to work them until they turn smoothly). If the boat’s out of the water, be sure to close any nonessential through-hulls before launching. We usually launch with just the engine’s intake open.

Every hose connection below the waterline should have two hose clamps in good condition, and any hoses should be free of cracking and inspected for weak spots or chafe. Also, be sure that an emergency plug is either tethered to the hose or in a very obvious and quickly accessible location.

Bilge pumps ought to test normally in both automatic and manually switched-on mode. Our ketch, Lyra , also has a high-water alarm, simply a float switch wired into a siren. Consider adding an alarm if your vessel doesn’t have one — ours has gone off twice in the 10 years we’ve owned the boat, saving us our engine and, in one case, a possible sinking. Manual bilge pumps should be crack-free and checked to make sure they are working properly.

Steering gear will operate smoothly if inspected and maintained properly. In the event that the boat’s out of the water, hold the trailing edge of the rudder firmly and throw your weight back and forth on it. There should be little to no play or vibration in the rudder shaft, tube or shoe at the base of the skeg (if your boat has one). Look for any stress cracking around the rudderstock, both inside the boat and on the rudder.

Cable steering should have no wear on the chain or sprocket. Tension should be not quite tight enough to thrum if you tap the wire. Any burrs can be found by running a paper towel along the cable — look for any bits of paper that are left behind. If there is any metal dust below the chain sprocket or any sheaves, it indicates that abnormal wear is occurring, and there may be an alignment or bearing issue. Wiping a light coat of motor oil on the chain and cable will complete the inspection.

Auxiliary power is, in many cases, a modern cornerstone of safe and enjoyable sailing. While many of us prefer to think of ourselves as intrepid sailors battling the elements and braving the salty brine in the grand tradition of Joshua Slocum, the sad fact is that most of us tend to rely on the trusty iron genny rather more than not as we battle tide, weather or simply stay an extra couple of hours at anchor before moving on. It behooves us to ensure that the engine is in tip-top working order.

One of the most important tools at your disposal is a comprehensive maintenance log. Update it frequently and as thoroughly as possible. This will provide a detailed history of the work you’ve done but should also include contact information for parts sources and mechanics, and commonly used part numbers for quick troubleshooting and maintenance later.

Hopefully, your engine oil and fuel ­filters were changed in the fall. With the motor still cold, the motor oil, transmission oil and coolant should be at the manufacturer’s recommended levels, and any clear bowl, such as that found in the fuel filter, should be clean. Place fresh white oil-absorption pads under the engine to show any drips that occur both before and after running the engine. Each fluid in the engine has a distinct color, scent and feel — be familiar with each as it comes new from the container.Engine oil will typically discolor within a few hours of run time, but should never smell like soot or fuel. If there is any cause for concern — or just for peace of mind — an inexpensive way to glean an amazing amount of information about the health of the engine is to send an oil sample to a lab. There are a number of kits and companies, such as Blackstone Labs, that will analyze the engine’s lubricants for about $30 per test. They will check for unwelcome things like water, antifreeze, carbon and fuel in the oil. The lab will want at least 20 hours on the fluid change for accurate analysis.It is time to change the coolant if there is discoloration or you find sediment in the reservoir. Always use the recommended coolant type for your engine; mixing different coolants can cause major problems associated with precipitates or acid.Before heading out for the season’s shakedown run, make sure the intake through-hull is open and the strainer is clean.

While it’s fine to change the impeller on the manufacturer’s recommended schedule, consider removing the water-pump cover and checking for any wear, cracking or missing paddles. Also look for any sign of salt trails or dripping seals, which can indicate a problem. I recently had a virtually new impeller burn up when it lost its prime due to a rushed cleaning of the gasket surfaces. There was a clear salt trail down the face of the water-pump cover. If the motor has a zinc , be sure it’s been replaced.

When I first start the engine after a prolonged period, I like to warm it gently while still at the dock. I’m careful to listen for any unusual noises — tapping valves, squeals, clunks when shifting, etc. Are there fluid drips or seeps on or under the motor? Are the batteries charging?

Also check for normal water flow out the exhaust , and watch for smoke or a sheen on the water.

This is also a good time to check your stuffing box to make sure that it’s functioning properly. There should be about a drip per second on the older-style packing boxes and none at all on the dripless variety. The dripless glands should never be hot to the touch (Take the motor out of gear to check this!), and the ­accordion-style cover should have no cracking. Hose clamps mating either type of stuffing box to the shaft log should be robust and in perfect condition, and the shaft should spin with little or no vibration.

I prefer to run up the engine in steps to full throttle once underway, checking everything each time I increase rotations per minute. Diesel motors need to be run hard from time to time to clean out soot deposits. Doing so will help keep your injectors and turbo in top condition. Also, a few minutes of hard running early on will ensure peace of mind when you need to open it up to make port on an outgoing tide on a windy day. If all is well, cool the power plant down and check all the fluids again before its next use.

A few other items that are often overlooked merit some attention before loading the family aboard and merrily pointing the bow toward the next adventure.

Freshwater systems in cold climates will have antifreeze in the lines and often in the tanks. The quickest way to clean them out and prepare them for use is to add just a few gallons of fresh water at a time while running all of the water-using appliances. Run the tank dry and repeat until water runs clear, and smells and tastes clean.

While the hose is out, spray down ­traditionally leaky areas to locate any new drips. The mast boot, portlights and anything that is through-bolted (particularly over bunk areas!) are all good bets.

Check anchor chain and line for overall health. Are all the shackles moused or zip-tied? Is the rode’s bitter end attached to the boat with a piece of line that will hold the boat but can be cut?

Treat canvas . Sunbrella recommends (we do too) 303 Fabric Guard. This is best done with the canvas laid out on the dock or grass, but can be done in place. Annual treatments will waterproof and protect the fabric, often extending its life by years.

Green Brett spends his sailing season as a charter captain aboard the family’s Reliance 44 ketch Lyra in Newport, Rhode Island.

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Pre-Departure and Boat Launch Checklist

A quick pre-trip checklist for your boat.

Trailer If you’re trailering your boat back to the water, it’s a good idea to give the trailer itself a quick check

• Check trailer tires for pressure and refill if needed
• Check tongue latch and coupling
• Check trailer brake fluid level
• Check trailer lights and replace as needed
• Check the padding and rollers

• Check for boaters’ license
• Check for ship’s papers
• Check for fishing licenses on board
• Put any required documents on display
• Have your wallet on hand with credit card and ID info

Safety Equipment and Gear Up-to-date safety equipment is so important for fun and safety on the water. Safety inspections are always available with the Canadian Power and Sail Squadron (CPS-ECP)

• Check flares for expiry dates
• Check lifejackets and make sure there are enough for everyone on board
• Check radio to make sure it works. Replace batteries or charge if needed
• Check fire and carbon monoxide detectors
• Check fire extinguishers

Navigation Navigation equipment should be checked and properly calibrated before every single trip, even just a short trip

• Check the navigation lights
• Check the compass to make sure it’s properly calibrated
• Ensure you have all necessary maps and charts
• Check the GPS and make sure it’s working

Anchors, Lines and Ropes All mooring and anchoring equipment should be clean and easy to reach

• Is anchor securely fastened with proper knots?
• Is there any damage to the anchor?
• Make sure there’s enough line to be able to easily throw out anchor and moor 
• Make sure there is extra line in case of emergency
• Check the knots in the line
• Check for any damage to the line

Engine and Fuel System The heart of your boat, you won’t get very far without the engine! If you notice any strange noises or smoke, contact a boat mechanic for assistance

• Fill fuel tank
• Run the engine and listen for any trouble
• Check fuel lines for any leaks or damage
• Check that all fittings are tightened
• Check that exhaust, engine and ventilation systems are in good shape
• Run the engine and check for smoke
• Check transom mounts (outboard)

Fluid Levels Topped-up fluids will keep your steering system and engine working hard. Always check and top up your boat’s fluids

• Check coolant
• Check engine oil
• Check power steering fluid
• Check power trim reservoirs
• Check coolant levels

Electrical As boaters, we rely heavily on electrical equipment for a safe and comfortable experience. Take a few minutes to check each of the electrical components.

• Check all connections for corrosion and cleanliness
• Remove battery terminals, clean connections with wire brush
• Check the battery is charged. Replace if needed
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Pre-Launch Checklist

• Thread starter entmejia
• Start date Jun 24, 2014
• Hunter Owner Forums
• Smaller Boats

About to launch the boat for the first time after completing basic keelboat cert. Does anyone have a basic checklist or cheat sheet for attaching the halyards, sheets, etc...basically getting the boat ready to run? Where do the various sheets run to (routing)? I've looked over the instruction manual, but it combines these steps with tuning the rigging, and also assumes a certain level of knowledge which I don't have, yet. Also, my 240 has a roller furling, which also isn't addressed in the manual. Thanks for any help you may have.  

Four Iron-Clad Rules... 1. Mast stays in the air. 2. Keel stays in the water. 3. Water stays out of the boat. 4. Crew stays in the boat.  

Depends on the boat. Make a list of every possible thing that you have to do. Prioritize what you have to do in three groups based on priority. Make then list. Then use the list and make a note of essential things you absolutley cannot forget to do. After sailing several times, you will discover the essential thing you forgot to put on the list. Since you probably have a fixed keel, you don't have the most essential thing that you have in a WWP 19: PUT AND LOCK DOWN THE DAMN DAGGERBOARD . Many people who have their boat trailered or at a slip might forget this---but usually only once. It makes the boat unstable and excessively tender to board, and liable to capsizing from the moment you put up any sail.  

Suggest you rig the boat at home before trying to do it at the water for the first time. This will reveal anything that is missing, broken, frozen or unworkable. I would be cautious about actually raising the sails but I would bend them on, again to show up any problems. Once you put it all in place it should be mostly self evident how all the lines run if you know their basic purpose. On launch day don't forget drain plugs. Don't expect the first time to be pure fun - that takes several outings before it becomes easy.  

Dunlookin said: 1. Mast stays in the air. 2. Keel stays in the water. 3. Water stays out of the boat. 4. Crew stays in the boat. Click to expand

For the first outing just put the boat in the water, fill the ballast tank, turn the engine on and just motor around to get a feel for the handling of the boat. Leave trying to rig and work the sails for your 2nd outing. Try finding a friend or pay someone with experience to help you rig the boat for sail and give you pointers on how to set up a routine for deploying and retrieving the boat.  

We just bought our H240 last year, and I would second the "motor around for a bit" advice just to get a feel for the helm. Also, if you want to play with the sails and other lines, a good time to do that is if it is calm (and I mean really calm) and you are tied up at the dock. You can then pretty much pull on anything you want without causing any real problems. If your boat has the original running rigging (or at least the same colors), you will figure out pretty quickly what is what: -Solid Blue is the Main Halyard. Make sure to let the mainsheet at least somewhat loose before raising the main. This runs up the inside of the mast (on the starboard side) and comes out the top. -Solid Red is the Jib Halyard. Other that raising the mast, you won't be using this much. This also runs up the inside of the mast on the port side and comes out near the top on the forward side of the mast. -Speckled Red are the Jib Sheets. After making sure the furler halyard is loose, pull on one of them to let the jib out. There is a picture in the manual of how to tie them to the jib, then you run them through the blocks on either side of the mast back to the cockpit through whatever cleating setup you have. -Black and blue is the centerboard. Make sure it is down and if in the water, just leave it there unless you are entering shallows. This should be connected already, and it uses a few blocks to give you a mechanical advantage in raising/lowering it. -White, black, and blue is the mainsheet and it attaches about 2/3rds of the way back on the boom and to the u-bolt in the middle of the cockpit floor. Should have blocks to make a 4:1 purchase. -Furler halyard. This will run from the drum on the bottom of the jib (i.e. near the tip of the bow) to somewhere or another else. This line is used to furl the jib in (then you wrap it around a cleat to secure). Make sure you get a good couple of wraps around the sail with the jib sheets when you furl in the sail. This is usually a pretty thin line (a lot thinner than any other ones). -Speckled Blue is the outhaul. Runs inside the boom and comes out the back. I run mine through the clew in the mainsail and then back to the u-bolt at the end of the boom (use a stop knot) to give myself a 2:1 advantage on tightening it. -Speckled Green is the reefing line. Runs inside the boom and comes out the back. It then runs through the sail and attaches to the u-bolt about 1-2 feet forward of the aft end of the boom (using a stop knot). -Speckled Red is the toping lift. Runs inside the boom and comes out the back. It then runs up and around the topping lift (steel cable with a block on the end) and back through the same u-bolt as the outhaul and is tied off with a stop knot. Note that all three lines run through the boom should ALWAYS have a stop knot on each end of them unless you really want to deal with re-running them. Hopefully when you bought the boat most of this stuff was already rigged. Other than the jib sheets which can be removed when you take off the jib, pretty much everything else stays attached to the boat at all times. If you have any specific questions, I would be happy to do what I can, or even to pass along a picture of how some things are setup.  

entmejia said: About to launch the boat for the first time after completing basic keelboat cert. Does anyone have a basic checklist or cheat sheet for attaching the halyards, sheets, etc...basically getting the boat ready to run? Where do the various sheets run to (routing)? I've looked over the instruction manual, but it combines these steps with tuning the rigging, and also assumes a certain level of knowledge which I don't have, yet. Also, my 240 has a roller furling, which also isn't addressed in the manual. Thanks for any help you may have. Click to expand

Great thread!!! We're about to put our Catalina 22 in for the 1st time as well and we're wondering the same thing.  

Thank you all for the excellent tips and advice. I'll dry run the stepping and rigging on Sat, then sail (or maybe just motor around) on Sunday.  

After giving it a bit more thought, here are some other pointers from having done this a couple of times now: -When you put in the mast pin, make sure you also put in the piece for the boom vang. We have a rigid vang on ours so we don't need to do this, but you don't want to find out later you forgot or you have to redo pretty much everything. Also, if your pin is any way bent, buy a new one from this site. Let's just say that $10 saved me at least 15-20 minutes of hassle putting in the pin (hassle that involves moving the mast around on your shoulder). With the new pin, it took about 5 seconds to put the pin in. -When you use the mainsheet to first start pulling the mast up, you might not have enough of it to "reach", so you will have to take out one of the loops. Thus, make sure you don't have a stop-knot in the end or this will be more difficult. -When you are trying to attach the forestay, you need to crank down pretty hard on the mainsheet to get things tight enough. -When you attach the boom, make sure the reefing hooks are above the boom such that the u-shaped part on each end is facing upside down. -If you have a CDI furler (we do), then we found it a lot easier to deal with the jib while still on the hard. With three people, you can have one feed the jib up from down below, the second feed it into the furler, and the third pull the in-furler halyard from down below (i.e. directly in front of the bow). Note that you are going to need to tie a bowline in one end of the line to hold the head of the jib, so make sure you can do that. The other end is not a big deal - you just need to attach it to the other side of the furler drum. It helps if there is no wind, but if there is some, then just point the boat at the wind and this is not that difficult to do.  

We used to have a 23.5, and I would follow the suggestion of rigging it first in the yard. Common mistakes to avoid (we've made many of these). - Be sure you have enough overhead clearance, especially at your launch area...no overhead tree branches hidden lines, etc. -Make sure you have the center board securely raised and locked before you float the boat off the trailer, or it will just drop down and jam when you launch. - Don't forget to fill the ballast tank and put the centerboard down before you sail (we had one very exciting time in 20 knot winds when I somehow forgot to do both. Luckily, I figured it out real quickly). -Don't forget to put on the short side stays when you raise the mast or it could flop sideways. -Pay attention to the shrouds (side) when you raise the mast so the toggles don't get jammed and bent when it's almost up all the way. -Make sure you let off the topping lift all the way when sailing up wind, or you won't make very good progress. That's all I can really think of at the moment. We originally made up a check list and used it the 1st few times, but I no longer have it. You should make your own, as you step the mast at home the first time. Maybe find someone with some sailing experience to help, and sail with you a time or 2.  

To add to sesmith's comments on the shrouds - make sure you have somebody on the ground that can get the u-bolts for each of the four shrouds to be in the right orientation. No matter how well you think you have them situated in advance, they will get into the wrong position when the mast goes up. The key time to get them straight is when you are 90% of the way up because shortly after that they will start to get tension in them.  

Nola2172 - I also have a H240, but when I bought the boat it had a 1/4" line for a topping lift as opposed to a wire topping lift as you described. Is there an advantage to using a wire topping lift as opposed to a regular braided line? Thanks, Bob  

When I bought mine, it had the wire topping lift, so I assumed it came that way. I can't think of any substantive advantage either way - the line does not need to be very strong since it does not hold a lot of weight. I actually have mine lashed to the deck in front of the shrouds right now because my rigid vang holds up the boom and the topping lift just gets in the way.  

Re. topping lift- We went with a Boomkicker on our boat and were very happy with it. No topping lift necessary anymore. I ended up moving the boomkicker over to my present boat, when we got it (sorry, current owner, if you're reading this). On the toggles...I've heard of others either taping the shrouds or bungying them to the lifelines to keep the toggles straight. Never tried that personally, but it sounds like a good idea.  

Very interesting. Are there any advantages to the boomkicker other than eliminating the topping line. Sometimes the leech of our mainsail catches on the the topping line so that would be a nice benefit.  

+1 on Benny17441's suggestion, first outing just motor around, second outing take a friend or someone from around the dock who knows sailboats. Raise the mainsail first, then then jib. first up last down. Keep calm and sail on. Its never as bad as you think it is, and will be a great story later. Have faith in the basics you learned in class. The rest will come with experience. Anyone who hasn't made a mistake or run aground has never left the dock. No drinking alcohol out of sight of land. In sight, drink. Ask questions Report back. Above all- have fun.  

DRY Run When I first used my Hobie Cat 16 I practiced in my drive way many times until I got it all down pat and than to the water to do some sailing. Do a search and see if anyone with this size is willing to go out with you for some sailing the first time or 2 times. The first time out make sure good calm weather, these small boats are tender with any real heavy wind and you want to make sure you know how to handle your boat. Good luck and have lots of fun with your son and it brings back great memories the first sailing with my kids. Nick  

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