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Pushpit Seats: Comfort in the Cockpit

Posted by Bill Dimmit | Projects

Common on many newer stock boats, pushpit or stern pulpit seating is a great addition to any good old boat as well. The pushpit is the stainless steel framework aft of the cockpit. It’s an important safety feature on any cruiser and, therefore, generally well constructed. This makes it a perfect location for the addition of seating areas that are not only great sailing thrones, but also provide out-of-the-action perches for non-sailors as well.

This is a reasonably simple project. Materials are readily available and fabrication is easily accomplished using tools found in most household workshops. These instructions will loosely guide you toward results similar to what you see in the photos, but every boat is as different as its owners’ personal tastes.

It is essential that your pushpit frame have a center horizontal rail. You really can’t consider the project without it. It supports the seats and gives you something to fasten them to. You’ll need some stiff corrugated cardboard for patterns. The sides of a cereal or tissue carton will do. Most frames will have one or two vertical supports near the bends in the corners. In our situation, these supports neatly defined the location of the seats. Your frame may be different. Lay the cardboard on the corner of the center rail. Doing so may require you to notch around a support or two. This is a trial-and-error challenge and may take a bit of time. Also make sure the pattern covers the entire area being considered for the seat. Then simply trace the outside contour of the rail onto the pattern. Also mark where you want the seats to end up on the frame. Don’t make the mistake of assuming that both sides of the frame are the same. Port and starboard seldom mirror each other, and you will need to make a pattern for each.

With the outline of your frame in hand, lay out the seats. Keep in mind that what you are doing will have some impact on the appearance of your boat. Your seats should be well proportioned in respect to the rest of the cockpit. Older cruiser/racers often have narrow transoms, so keep the seats fairly small – just enough to give support, with enough room left over for a beverage holder, if you want one. Another tip: there are very few truly straight lines on a boat. Use smooth flowing curves when laying out the inboard edge. Your final design should be pleasing to the eye and look like it belongs on the boat. Set both patterns on the frame to satisfy your eye before plugging in the saw. Then label them port/top and starboard/top.

We used 3/4 inch polyethylene stock for our seats because it was readily available. This may not be the case in your area. A better choice would be Starboard, a material made specifically for marine environments. Starboard comes in several sizes and colors. It can be ordered from most mail-order distributors. (I got mine from Elastomer Engineering Inc., 801 Steuben St., Sioux City, IA 51102. Phone: 712-252-1067.) Be sure to use material thick enough to give good support. I recommend 3/4 inch.

Transfer the patterns onto the material and simply cut them out with whatever you have on hand. A band saw is best, but a handheld sabre saw will do nearly as well. Take your time and try to cut right to the outside edge of the line. The holes for the beverage holders are best made with an adjustable circle-cutting bit mounted in a drill press, but the sabre saw will work here as well. Whatever tools you use, you are going to end up with edges that need some additional work.

Sand or file them smooth and fair. After they match the pattern and look good to the eye, you can contour them for comfort. This is easily done with a router, and if you don’t have one, a friend probably will. All that is necessary is to round over the top. But we chose to bullnose ours. The router should leave you with a nearly finished edge. Use a Scotch-brite pad to do any final smoothing.

With the seats shaped and edges smoothed, it’s time to mount them on the frame. Ours are held in place with custom clamps made from the same material as the seats. But making similar clamps would be difficult without a drill press. Stainless steel straps are an easier and better choice. Whatever you use, they should be through-bolted like hardware subject to stress. Countersink the heads and plug the holes just as you would if doing traditional woodwork. The beverage holders are held in place with marine-grade silicone.

Unless your seats are very small, they will probably require additional support. Our Ericson 32 has a split cockpit with an athwartships bench behind the helm. This made it easy to extend struts down to the original seat level. Most conventional cockpit arrangements should work. The struts are short sections of stainless or aluminum tubing with the same kinds of ends and mounting brackets used in Bimini frames. These items can be found in any boating area and also ordered from marine catalogs. Position the struts for good support. Ours run from near the center of the inboard edge, down to the back of the original cockpit seat. This retains some useful space on the bench below.

Our seats have endured two Midwest sailing seasons and we immediately found them to be one of the best improvements we’ve made on our good old boat.

Article from Good Old Boat magazine, November/December 1999.

About The Author

Bill Dimmit

Bill Dimmit, shown with grandson, Isaiah, and the new pushpit seats, has had a lifetime fascination with sailing, primarily sailing dinghies until a charter in the Virgin Islands convinced him and wife, Laurie, of the pleasures of the cruising life. They now sail a 1974 Ericson on Lewis and Clark Lake near Yankton, S.D.

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A Jargon Busting Guide To Sailing

Do you know your pushpit from your pulpit and your aft from your auxiliary? If you don’t want to be left high and dry, it’s important to know all of the sailing terms before you set sail on the open seas.

Sailing jargon, which is packed with technical terms, can seem intimidating at the start. But don’t let this put you off a sport which is one of the most thrilling and fun out there. In the modern world, there really is nothing that compares to the freedom and adventure of sailing around some of the world’s most beautiful coastlines.

Once you learn the lingo, you’ll be able to use it to manoeuvre your boat safely and with ease, in any sailing scenario.

In this article, we’ll explain the most common sailing jargon and take a closer look at essential signage and to how to use your radio, making your transition from land to sea plain sailing.

Aft : The rear half of your boat.

Apparent wind : Apparent wind is the real wind direction together with the headwind which is created by your yacht moving forward.

Auxiliary : Your sailboat’s engine by another name.

Baggywrinkle : Baggywrinkle is the soft padding that surrounds your boat’s rigging in order to stop chafing of the sails. (This has to be one of our favorite sailing terms.)

Bow : In sailing, the bow is the front of your yacht.

Dunsel : The part of a boat which is useless or unnecessary. A name which you definitely want to avoid being called!

Gybe : This is a verb which means to change course by moving your sail across the following wind.

Heads : You want to keep what happens in the heads as far away from your head as possible, as it’s a boat’s toilet. Why such a seemingly bizarre name? Heads get their name from the fact that the head or the bow of the boat was always downwind and the toilets were placed here so that the odor would be carried away from the boat.

Helm : This is where the skipper will steer your boat.

Keel : This is the large fin under the bottom of your boat. Hopefully, you won’t see it when you’re sailing.

Lines : Your yacht’s ropes are known as ‘lines’. There are loads of them, so be careful when you’re walking around the deck!

Mainsail : This one’s pretty obvious but is worth mentioning as it’s the most important (and biggest) sail on your boat. It’s weighed down by a large pole at the base known as a ‘boom’. Don’t let the boom hit your head, as it can do some serious (even fatal) damage.

Mooring : If you want to spend a little time on dry land, you’re going to have to moor – or ‘park’ – your boat. You moor a boat when you attach it by a rope to the shore or when you attach it to an anchor. If you hear people talking of ‘med mooring’, this is when you park your boat in a small space, with the back (the stern) to the quay. The name comes from the fact that boats are parked like this on harbors along the Mediterranean.

Port and Starboard : Port is to the left of your yacht (when you face the front), starboard is to the right.

Pulpit : A pulpit is the steel platform at the front of a boat.

Pushpit : The pushpit is a raised safety rail at the back of a boat.

Reef : A reef is a strip across a sail. Reefs can be rolled up in order to reduce the area of the sail exposed to the wind. Therefore, the verb ‘to reef’ means to decrease the sail area. For example, it’s a good idea to reef the mainsail in strong winds.

Tacking : When you’re tacking your boat, you’re changing its course by turning the front of it into the wind.

Sailing signage made simple

Before you set sail, it’s vital to know about the different regulatory marks. When you see a regulatory mark (a white “can” buoy), you’ll be able to see what it is telling you by the orange shape displayed on it.

An open diamond – This shape means danger. The nature of the danger will normally be written inside the diamond. It could be anything from rocks to a dam.
A diamond with a cross – This is a boating ‘do not enter’ sign. It could be that you are next to a zone which is set aside for swimming or there could a dam ahead.
A square – This will give you information about everything from distances to directions.
A circle – Restrictions are ahead. For example, this could be a speed limit.

For more information on boat signage, head to the Boat US Foundation website.

Using your radio

It’s one of the most important pieces of safety equipment on your boat, so take the time to learn how to use your radio properly.

First and foremost, ensure that you know the channels and their purpose. For example, channel 16 is used for safety and distress calls, so you don’t want to start using this channel for normal conversations.

If you do find yourself in trouble, tune your radio to channel 16, with the power set to high and say “Mayday” three times. If you’re in trouble but your situation isn’t life-threatening at that moment, “pan-pan” three times is more appropriate.

You’ll then need to tell the Coast Guard your boat’s name, description and your location (latitude and longitude) and what kind of emergency situation is underway. Be prepared to answer further questions.

Sailing terms needn’t leave you all at sea…

Learning the theory now will mean you can take to the seas a confident sea dog, rather than a landlubber. We hope we’ve helped you to get started. Happy sailing!

We hope you found this article helpful. If you are interested in learning more about marine life, why not take a look at one of our other posts?

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Add More Cockpit Seating With DIY Stern Perch Seats

Small sailboats don’t offer a lot of seating options in the cockpit. Four adults are about the maximum that will leave room for the skipper to work the helm. For casual cruising, that means everyone is in the cockpit, not hiking out on the coamings or side decks. Most sailboats will accommodate six in the cockpit while moored with the tiller out of the way but that can be crowded. You can give your guests more room or yourself more seating options with seats mounted on the stern pushpit.

Before I continue, a bit of legal housekeeping. This post contains affiliate links. That means I receive a small commission if you make a purchase using those links. Those commissions help to pay the costs associated with running this site so that it stays free for everyone to enjoy. For a complete explanation of why I’m telling you this and how you can support this blog without paying more, please read my full disclosure .

Stern perch seats make sitting on the pushpit railing more comfortable. Back when I used to do all my docking maneuvers with the outboard tiller, I often sat on the railing for better forward visibility and for room to steer the outboard. Now I leave the outboard motor locked in the centered position and steer with the rudder exclusively. But I still like to sit on the pushpit occasionally for a change of view or to see over the bimini.

You can spend hundreds of dollars for factory-built seats like those from Zarcor shown below or you can make your own with simple tools and materials and a little imagination. You can make them out of any material that you want, for example, Starboard by King Plastics or teak plywood—in my case, recycled old crib boards.

Custom Stern Perch Seats Step-by-Step

To make your own custom stern perch seats:

Use cardboard to make a template that fits the shape of the corners of your pushpit. Overlap the railing enough for three clamps underneath the seat. The shape and size of the seat should be comfortable but compact. Avoid shapes that get in the way of the main sheet when on a reach, bimini attachments, or the lazarette lids. Make the size easy to stow when you’re not using the seats.
Transfer the shape to your seat material and cut out the seat with a jigsaw or bandsaw.
Smooth the edges until the curves are fair.
Round over the edges with a router and/or sandpaper.
If you are using wood for the seat material, apply your favorite finish. Mine is teak oil and a clear varnish to let the beauty of the wood shine through.
Temporarily attach three pole clips to your pushpit similar to the picture below. You want the clips to form a triangle to support the weight of a person sitting on the seat without the seat folding down.
Position the seat board on the clips and mark the locations of the mounting holes on the bottom of the seat.
Remove the seat and drill pilot holes for the mounting screws. Remember to not drill all the way through the seat!
Remove the clips from the railing and screw them to the seat with stainless steel pan head sheet metal screws that are shorter than the seat board is thick.
Snap the seat onto the pushpit whenever you want to sit high and dry. Unsnap it whenever you want to stow it or so that it doesn’t become a perch for messy birds.

Attachment and Other Options

I used three 1″ Sea-Dog Line Pole Storage Clips for each seat to make them easy to remove.

The seat clips securely to the pushpit top rail

If you would prefer a more permanent mounting, use something like these Ancor Marine Grade Electrical Stainless Steel Cushion Clamps .

Most small sailboat pushpits are made with a single rail so a stern perch seat works more like a stool than a chair. Larger sailboats have taller pushpits with two rails, which makes a more comfortable seat. The seat attaches to the lower rail (possibly with a center support leg) and the upper rail serves as a backrest, especially if it’s cushioned.

Depending on how you attach your seats to the pushpit (permanent vs. removable), you might be able to make your seats more comfortable by shaping them more like an ellipse. I found that an elliptical shape didn’t work well with the rubber pole clips that I used. Weight on the front of the seat board unsnapped the middle clip at the rear of the seat. That’s why I made them shaped like a fat boomerang. They’re not as comfy as on a bigger boat but they’re not bad. Permanent clamps can hold more weight on the front edge of the seat.If you want to start with my design to make your own, there is

If you want to base your design off mine, there is a free, dimensioned drawing on the Downloads page that’s available to subscribers.

Experiment with different shapes to find what works best for you. Make prototypes out of wood scraps. Also, consider making your seats multi-purpose with built-in cup holders, fishing rod holders, a flag staff, or as a grilling prep table.

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The Different Parts Of A Sailboat Explained

A sailboat consists of hundreds of parts, each with its specific term and function. From stern to bow, keel to mast, each part and its equipment plays a vital role in making the vessel seaworthy and able to sail.

In this guide, I’ll show you most of the components so you can better understand what they are and their function. We’ll begin with the main components, move to the basic features, and finish with our interior and equipment.

The main parts of a sailboat

The main parts of a sailboat are the key components that make it a vessel able to sail. You’ll notice that the structure has several distinct differences from powerboats.

We can categorize the main parts into the following:

Hull: The main structure, or “body” part of a boat.
Keel: The heavy fin at the bottom allows stability under sail.
Rudder: The fin sticking down at the stern, allowing us to steer the vessel.
Mast: The “spars” or “poles” holding the sails.
Rigging: The standing rig is the wires that supports the mast. The running rigging is all the lines that control the sails.
Boom: The horizontal spar supporting the bottom of the mainsail.
Sails: The canvas used to harness the energy of the wind.

Let’s dig a bit deeper into each of the components.

Hull – The main structure

A sailboat’s hull is the vessel’s main body or structure. The shape is vital to the boat’s performance and stability, and you have probably seen boats in many different forms. Older vessels are typically narrow, with a rounded underbody and a small stern. Modern designs have a flatter belly and broad stern supporting dual helm stations.

One of the hull’s primary functions is to displace water and provide buoyancy to keep the boat afloat. The hull is also the structure that holds the vessel’s living compartments and all its equipment. The main structure must be strong enough to withstand the forces of the water and any rough weather conditions that Mother Nature might throw at it.

Fiberglass (GRP), steel, aluminum, and wood are the most commonly used hull materials, each with pros and cons.

You can learn more about hull materials and their strengths in this article .

A monohull is a type of sailboat that has a single hull. Monohulls are classified into two categories based on weight and shape: planing and displacement hulls.

Sailboats with more than one hull are called multihulls. There are two types of multihulls: catamarans, which have two, and trimarans, which have three. These boats are typically designed with planing hulls.

Keel – The fin under the boat

The keel of a sailboat is a structural fin that extends downward from the bottom of the hull. There are several types of keels, each with unique characteristics and advantages. They all serve the same fundamental purpose of stabilizing the boat when we sail by adding lateral resistance in the water and weight at the vessel’s bottom.

Standard keel designs include:

Lifting Keel

Some sailboats have a retractable centerboard functioning as their keel, allowing them to take the boat into shallower areas.

Rudder – To steer the boat

The rudder is a flat surface that sits perpendicular to the waterline. It is connected to the boat by a pivot point, allowing it to swivel left and right. When the steering wheel or tiller is turned, the rudder moves, creating drag in the water causing the boat to turn. The size and shape of the rudder can vary depending on the size and type of boat.

The most commonly seen rudder designs:

Full skeg-supported
Semi skeg-supported

Skeg-supported rudders are structurally one of the most reliable and robust constructions, but they are less efficient than a balanced rudder performance-wise. Balanced rudders pivot around their vertical center, giving less drag in the water and higher maneuverability at the cost of being a more vulnerable construction.

Twin rudders are often seen on modern performance sailboats with a wide stern. When the sailboat heel over , the leeward rudder gets better track through the water than a single rudder placed at the vessel’s center line. Contrary to some misconceptions, they can’t be controlled individually, even if the boat has two steering wheels.

Mast and Rigging – Supporting the sails

The mast is the long vertical spar that extends upward from the deck of a sailboat and holds the sails. It is the tallest part of the boat and is typically made of wood, aluminum, or carbon fiber. The mast is held in place by stays and shrouds, which form the sailboat’s standing rigging.

Depending on the rig the boat is manufactured with, there are several different types of masts. For example, a sloop-rigged sailboat will have only one main mast, while a ketch-rigged vessel will have a smaller additional mizzen mast placed further aft from the main mast.

There are two types of rigging:

The Standing rigging consists of the stays and shrouds that keep the mast or masts in place.
The Running rigging is the lines we use to hoist, lower, and control the sails.

Pro Tip: “S par” is a general term for a pole made of a solid material like wood, metal, or composite and is used to support a boat’s sail. The mast, boom, spreaders, and poles are defined as spars.

Boom – Supporting the mainsail

The boom is a horizontal beam extending from the mast and supporting the mainsail’s tack and clew (bottom two corners). It is attached to the mast by a hinge called a Gooseneck .

We use the boom to control the shape and angle of the mainsail to optimize its efficiency and power. Some booms also have a Vang or Rod-Kicker installed to assist in trimming the mainsail.

Sails – The canvas used to harness the energy of the wind

Most vessels have at least two sails, depending on the rig type and boat setup.

The Mainsail flies behind the mast, on top of the boom. Although it may not always be the largest sail on the vessel, we commonly refer to it as “the main.”

The Headsail(s ), located in front of the mast, are often of different sizes and shapes, and many sailboats have more than one. The Jib and Genoa are two of the most common types.

Different types of sails are used for various sail plans and situations, and you can learn more about them in this guide .

Now that we had a look at the main parts of the boat, let us dive deeper and look at the rest of the vessel.

The starboard and port side of the boat

Learning about the boat’s components is very important, but we must also know how to orient ourselves on the vessel. Using the words “left and right” on onboard often leads to confusion.

If you refer to something on the left side of the boat, the person facing you will be confused. He won’t know if you are referring to his or your left. This is where the terms “Port” and “ Starboard ” make better sense.

When facing the front of the boat or the bow , your left side of the boat is the port side, and the right-hand side is the starboard . If you turn around and face the back of the boat or the stern , your right-hand side will be the port side.

A red light identifies the port side of a vessel.
A green light identifies the starboard side of a vessel.

Windward and Leeward

The windward side of the boat is the side facing the wind. If the wind comes from your right-hand side while facing forward, the starboard side is windward. This will be the boat’s high side as the wind heels the boat over.
The leeward side of the boat is the side opposite to the wind. This will be the lower side of the ship while sailing as the wind heels the boat over.

Windward and leeward are two of the most important aspects to understand when sailing and navigating. Not only to identify equipment and gear on each side of the boat but to avoid collisions when sailing close to other vessels. There are rules on the water dictating which boat is “Stand On” and which has to “Give Way” depending on whether you are the windward or the leeward vessel in the situation.

Read this article to access a free course on navigation rules .

Basic parts of a sailboat

The boat’s bow is the front part, typically shaped like a “V” to cut through the waves. Larger vessels often have a locker for their anchor chain in this section, holding the anchor at the front.

The midship section is the center of the boat. Some refer to this part as amidships.

The stern is the rear or back part of the boat. It is also referred to as the aft . I’ve had French crew calling the stern the butt of the vessel, which is funny but also correct!

The beam is the widest part of the boat. Also referred to as the sides on the middle.

The transom is a flat surface across the stern of the boat.

The waterline is the part where the hull (body) of the boat meets the water. Many vessels have a painted stripe to mark the waterline, indicating how loaded the ship is. If you have too much stuff on board, the waterline goes underwater, and it is time to do some housekeeping!

The freeboard is the vertical part of the ship side between the water and the deck. When you see a blue boat like Ellidah, the freeboard is the blue part.

The deck is the “floor” of the boat when you are outside. You have probably heard the term “All hands on deck!” The front deck is the deck space in front of the mast. Side decks are the decks on the boat’s sides.

The mid-deck is between the cockpit and the mast. The aft deck is the deck behind the cockpit. Sailboats with aft cockpits often don’t have any aft decks, but some have a swimming platform instead.

The cockpit is the boat’s steering position and where you will find the helm.

The helm is the position the helmsman uses to steer the boat. Smaller sailboats often use a tiller to navigate, while most bigger yachts have one or two steering wheels.

Main parts below deck (inside the boat)

Let us look at the interior to highlight and learn about the parts we have below the deck.

The Companionway

The companionway is the “front door” of the boat. This is where the steps lead from the cockpit or deck down below. It is usually opened and closed using a hatch, two doors, or a plate.

The Galley

The galley is the boat’s kitchen. This is where sailors prepare their delicious meals.

The Saloon

The saloon is basically the boat’s living room, usually where you find the settee and dinette. This is where delicious meals from the galley are served together with refreshing beverages in good company.

The settee is the sofa or couch in a boat. It is also used as a sea berth to sleep in when sailing.

The dinette is the area where you can sit down at a table and eat your dinner. It’s also perfect for consuming rum and a game of cards in good company.

A cabin is often used as a bedroom in a boat but is not necessarily where you sleep. Many boats have more than one cabin.

A berth is a place in the boat where you can sleep. This doesn’t necessarily have to be a bed and can often include the sleeping space in the saloon. Sea-berth usually refers to a sleeping position where you are tucked well in and can sleep when the boat is heeling over and moving around.

The head is the toilet on a boat. If your skipper tells you to go and clean the head, getting out the shampoo won’t do you any good!

Nav station

The navigation station is usually a chart table and a console with mysterious instruments like radios, switchboards, and complicated electronics. This is where adventures are planned and the skipper’s favorite seat onboard.

The bilge is a space in the bottom of the hull where water collects and sometimes a storage space for all sorts of things. It usually contains a bilge pump to pump out water that finds its way into the boat in various places.

A v-berth is a bed in the front cabin shaped like a V.

A bulkhead is a wall inside the boat, usually supporting the structure.

Hardware and Equipment

Sailboats come equipped with a variety of different hardware and equipment. While the specific items may vary from boat to boat, there are some essentials that nearly every sailboat has.

A winch is a metal drum that gives you a mechanical advantage and is used to control and tighten lines. These can be operated by turning a line around it and pulling manually or by a winch handle to get more force.

Most modern winches are so-called “self-tailing,” which means they lock the line on so you can winch the line without holding on to it. Some boats even have electrical winches operated by a button.

A cleat is a fitting used to fasten a rope. Most boats have at least 6 of these. One on each side on the bow, midship and stern. These are used to secure the boat to a mooring buoy or key. Many ships have more cleats than this for various lines and ropes, and they can be used for anything as they are strong points fitted to the hull.

The sprayhood is the boat’s windshield that protects the people in the cockpit from sea spray. Some vessels have a canvas sprayhood that can be folded down or removed. Others have solid sprayhoods, often called a hard dodger or a doghouse .

The bimini is the cockpit’s “roof.” It protects you from the elements and shelters you from spray, rain, and burning sun rays! A bimini can be made of canvas or hard material. A hard bimini can also be called a hardtop .

Dinghy

A dinghy is a little boat you use to get from the mothership to shore when you are at anchor, also called a tender or annex . It can be everything from a small inflatable rubber kayak to a RIB or even a solid boat.

An essential and valuable piece of kit as it is the daily driver for most cruisers. It is like the car of a land crab, used for all commuting on the water and hauling important stuff like beer, rum, and food onboard. Dinghies often have electric or petrol engines, which we call outboards.

Dinghies are also great to use for watersports, such as wakeboarding!

Like Captain Ron said in the movie, fenders are the rubber bumper things you hang off your boat to prevent it from scratching against something like the pontoon or another ship. It is conveniently also used to sit on or as a backrest while relaxing on deck.

A boat hook is a long stick with a hook at the end. Used to grab lines, items, and stuff that is too far to reach by hand, like cushions flying overboard. It is also convenient as a tool to push the boat away from another craft or the key. Most vessels have them on board.

The guard rail can be a flexible wire or a solid metal rail surrounding the boat to prevent us from falling overboard. Some also use a net as an addition for increased safety.

The pushpit is a metal guard rail around the stern of the boat. This is where the guard rail is secured on the stern: a common place to mount the BBQ, life raft, and the outboard for the dinghy.

The pulpit is the metal guardrail on the bow. This is where the guard rail is secured onto the bow.

The stanchions are the metal bars that keep the guard rail in place around the boat between the pushpit and the pulpit.

An arch is a typical structure made of stainless steel on the back of a boat and is often used to mount a variety of items like antennas, radars, solar panels, wind generators, etc. It is also convenient to use for lifting the dinghy and its outboard.

Ground Tackle

The ground tackle consists of several things:

Your anchor
Your anchor chain
The link between the two
The connection between the chain and your boat

It includes all equipment holding your boat to the ground. Larger boats sometimes have two anchors on the bow.

A windlass is a winch that hoists and lowers the anchor and chain. Most boats have one on the bow and some on the stern. These incredible things can be electrical or manual (some are both) and are essential to anchor your boat when not in a port or marina.

VHF stands for “Very High-Frequency Radio.” It broadcasts on the VHF network and allows you to communicate with others around you. Sadly, you won’t be able to tune in to your favorite radio show on these.

Still, they are essential for contacting other boats and port authorities. It is also the radio you will transmit an emergency mayday over in case of emergency. VHF radios sometimes require a license, depending on the country you are in.

Chartplotter

A Chartplotter is a navigation computer that shows various information on a screen, like charts, routes, radar images, etc. It is another vital piece of equipment that helps you navigate and maneuver the boat.

Final words

I hope this guide has been helpful and not too overwhelming for you. We’ve covered many of the parts of a sailboat and its terms and functions, but this article only touches on the basics. If you want to keep learning about sailing, I have written several other guides to help you get started.

Now that you have a basic understanding of sailboats, it’s time to take the next step and dive into a sailboat’s standing rigging .

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Skipper, Electrician and ROV Pilot

Robin is the founder and owner of Sailing Ellidah and has been living on his sailboat since 2019. He is currently on a journey to sail around the world and is passionate about writing his story and helpful content to inspire others who share his interest in sailing.

STERNPERCH SAILBOAT SEATS

Adds seating to older sailboats.

Stern Perch seats make older sailboats like new

One of the biggest complaints among owners of pre-1993 sailboats is the absence of the popular stern rail seats. Now you can add them to many of the older model boats! They're custom designed for a perfect fit, yet easily removed if you need them off.

Made from 1/2" marine-grade polymer, our stern rail seats are easy to install (no tools are required). When installed, the seat attaches to the lower stern rail and lies inboard of it. (An upper and lower stern rail configuration is required.) The seats are supported from the stern pulpit as well as a leg which rests on the deck, coaming, or cockpit of the boat (location varies depending on boat design). The entire seat is designed to tilt up for access to hatches or other deck fittings if necessary. Recommended weight limit is 250 lbs. per seat.

We've sold a great number of the seats and owners have been quite happy with them. Each set includes built-in drink holders, too!

Consider Rail Cushions and or Lifeline Cushions for added comfort;on your back when leaning against the stern rail.

Sternperch Sailboat Seats

For a list of boats we have patterns for click here .

To See some pictures click here

If we do not have your boat listed, here is how to make a pattern. Pattern Making Instructions

WE ALSO OFFER Rail Cushions and Seat Pads both sold separately.

A Guide to Sailing the San Juan 23 Pushpit and Its Benefits

The San Juan 23 pushpit is a crucial component of the San Juan 23 sailboat. It is designed to provide safety and stability to sailors while out at sea. This essential feature is typically installed at the stern of the boat and acts as a barrier between the crew and the water. It is a vital part of the vessel s safety equipment and can prevent crew members from accidentally falling overboard.

The pushpit is made from high-quality stainless steel which provides strength and durability in harsh weather conditions. It is carefully designed to ensure that it does not interfere with the operation of the boat while providing a secure and stable platform for crew members. Additionally, the pushpit can be used as a mounting point for a variety of accessories including navigation lights, radar reflectors, and wind generators.

Understanding the Purpose of a Pushpit on a Sailboat

A pushpit is an essential safety feature found on many sailboats including the San Juan 23. It is a metal railing or framework that extends from the stern of the boat and serves to protect the crew from falling overboard. The pushpit typically consists of two vertical stanchions connected by a horizontal rail which is positioned at the rear of the boat. The pushpit also provides a secure mounting point for various equipment such as navigation lights, radar antennas, and wind generators.

In addition to its safety function the pushpit on a sailboat like the San Juan 23 can also serve as a convenient platform for attaching lines and fenders while docking or mooring. The pushpit can also be used to support a swim ladder or boarding platform that makes it easier for crew members to enter and exit the water.

Overall the pushpit is an important component of the sailboat’s safety system and its design and construction should be carefully considered to ensure maximum protection for the crew while underway.

Features of the San Juan 23 Pushpit

The pushpit on the San Juan 23 sailboat is a sturdy and well-designed structure that provides excellent protection to the crew while underway. Here are some of the key features of the pushpit.

Construction:

The pushpit is made from high-quality stainless steel which provides excellent durability and corrosion resistance even in harsh marine environments .

The pushpit features two vertical stanchions that are securely mounted to the transom of the boat. These stanchions are connected by a horizontal rail that runs along the back of the boat creating a solid barrier that helps prevent crew members from falling overboard.

The pushpit is designed to be high enough to offer sufficient protection . But not so high that it blocks the skipper’s view while sailing.

Mounting points:

The pushpit provides several secure mounting points for equipment such as navigation lights radar antennas and wind generators. These mounting points are strategically positioned to minimize interference with other sailboat systems.

Additional features:

Some San Juan 23 pushpits may also include a built-in swim ladder or boarding platform making it easier for crew members to enter and exit the water.

Materials Used in the Construction of the San Juan 23 Pushpit

The San Juan 23 is typically constructed using high-quality marine-grade stainless steel. Stainless steel is a popular material choice for pushpits on sailboats because of its durability strength and resistance to corrosion in saltwater environments.

Stainless steel is a tough metal that doesn’t rust easily because it has elements like iron-chromium. The San Juan 23 is usually made of a special type of stainless steel called 316L marine grade stainless steel. It has even more chromium and nickel than regular stainless steel, so it doesn’t rust or corrode easily.

316L stainless steel is great for boats because it is really good at resisting damage from saltwater. It does not get pits or cracks easily even in harsh environments. The boat is also very strong and can handle tough conditions on the open sea.

It has different parts made of stainless steel brass or bronze. These materials are used because they don’t rust and can handle the movements of a sailboat without breaking.

Installation and Maintenance of the San Juan 23 Pushpit

Installation and maintenance of the San Juan 23 pushpit are critical to ensuring its proper function and durability. Here are some tips for installing and maintaining the pushpit on your San Juan 23 sailboat.

Installation:

Choose the Right Location:

The pushpit needs to be fixed firmly to the back of the boat, in a place where the crew is shielded well during the trip.

Use Proper Hardware:

Use high-quality stainless steel hardware and fittings to secure the pushpit to the transom of the boat. Ensure that all fasteners are tight and properly sealed to prevent water intrusion and corrosion.

Check for Interference:

Ensure that the pushpit does not interfere with other sailboat systems such as rigging steering or sail control lines.

Maintenance:

Regular Inspections:

Inspect the pushpit regularly for signs of wear, damage, or corrosion. Check all fasteners and fittings to ensure that they are tight and in good condition.

Clean and Polish:

Clean the pushpit regularly with fresh water and mild detergent to remove salt and other contaminants. Polish the stainless steel components with a high-quality metal polish to maintain their appearance and protect them from corrosion.

Address Issues Promptly:

If you notice any damage or corrosion on the pushpit address it promptly to prevent further damage and ensure the safety of the crew. Replace any damaged components with high-quality stainless steel replacements.

Overall, proper installation and maintenance of the pushpit are critical to ensuring the safety and reliability of the sailboat. By following these tips you can help ensure that your pushpit provides the necessary protection to the crew and withstands the rigors of the marine environment.

Importance of the San Juan 23 Pushpit for Safety on the Water

The pushpit plays a critical role in ensuring the safety of the crew while underway. Here are some of the key reasons why the pushpit is so important for safety on the water:

Fall Prevention:

The pushpit provides a solid barrier along the back of the boat that helps prevent crew members from falling overboard. This is particularly important when the boat is heeling or in rough seas where the risk of falling overboard is higher.

Protection from Waves:

The pushpit can also help protect the crew from waves crashing over the stern of the boat which can be dangerous and disorienting.

Equipment Mounting:

The pushpit provides secure mounting points for equipment such as navigation lights and radar antennas. These devices are critical for safe navigation in low light or poor visibility conditions.

Emergency Boarding:

If someone does fall overboard the pushpit can also provide a sturdy platform for crew members to use when attempting to re-board the boat.

Structural Integrity:

The pushpit is a key structural component of the boat’s overall safety system. It helps distribute the forces of the water and wind across the back of the boat, providing additional stability and preventing damage to other components.

Comparison of the San Juan 23 Pushpit to Similar Sailboat Models

The San Juan 23 pushpit is a unique component of the sailboat and is designed specifically for the San Juan 23 model. However many other sailboat models also have pushpits with similar functions and features . Here is a comparison of the San Juan 23 to similar pushpits found on other sailboat models:

Catalina 22 Pushpit:

The Catalina 22 sailboat also has a pushpit installed on the stern of the boat. The pushpit is made of stainless steel and provides a barrier to prevent crew members from falling overboard. However, the Catalina 22 pushpit is typically smaller and less robust than the San Juan 23 pushpit.

Hunter 23.5 Pushpit:

The Hunter 23.5 sailboat also has a pushpit installed on the stern of the boat. The pushpit is made of stainless steel and provides a barrier to prevent crew members from falling overboard. Like the Catalina 22 pushpit, the Hunter 23.5 pushpit is typically smaller and less robust than the San Juan 23 pushpit.

O Day 22 Pushpit:

The O Day 22 sailboat also has a pushpit installed on the stern of the boat. The pushpit is made of stainless steel and provides a barrier to prevent crew members from falling overboard. However, the O’Day 22 pushpit is typically smaller and less robust than the pushpit.

Overall, it is a robust and sturdy component of the sailboat that is designed specifically for this model. While there are other sailboat models with similar pushpits, the San Juan 23 is typically larger and more durable than those found on other boats. The size and strength of the pushpit make it an important component of the San Juan 23 overall safety system, helping to ensure the safety of the crew while underway.

Frequently Asked Questions about the San Juan 23 Pushpit.

What is a pushpit on a sailboat.

A pushpit is a safety railing or barrier located at the stern or back of a sailboat that is designed to prevent crew members from falling overboard.

What is the San Juan 23 pushpit made of?

The San Juan 23 pushpit is typically made of stainless steel which is durable and resistant to corrosion.

How is the San Juan 23 pushpit installed?

The pushpit is typically installed by drilling holes in the transom of the boat and attaching it with bolts and washers.

What is the purpose of the San Juan 23 pushpit?

The San Juan 23 pushpit serves several important safety functions . Including preventing crew members from falling overboard, protecting the crew from waves, providing mounting points for navigation equipment, assisting with emergency boarding, and contributing to the structural integrity of the boat.

How do I maintain the San Juan 23 pushpit?

The pushpit should be inspected regularly for signs of damage or wear and any issues should be addressed immediately. It should be cleaned regularly with a mild soap and water solution to prevent the buildup of dirt and grime.

Can the San Juan 23 pushpit be customized?

Yes, some owners choose to customize their pushpits with additional features such as seats, rod holders, or additional equipment mounts.

Is the San Juan 23 pushpit necessary for safe sailing?

Yes, the pushpit is a critical component of the sailboat’s overall safety system and is necessary for safe sailing. It helps prevent crew members from falling overboard. Protects the crew from waves provides mounting points for navigation equipment assists with emergency boarding and contributes to the structural integrity of the boat.

Stern Rail Seats

"The finest improvement to my boat, for the least amount of money. I recommend Stern Perch seats to everybody." - Judy Farrington, Newport, RI 1990 Hunter 30

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Pushpit vs. Pulpit — What's the Difference?

Difference Between Pushpit and Pulpit

Table of contents, key differences, comparison chart, primary function, material & design, context of use, significance, compare with definitions, common curiosities, is a pushpit necessary on all boats, how does a pulpit enhance religious ceremonies, can the design of a pulpit vary according to the religious denomination, what is the main purpose of a pushpit on a boat, how does the audience interact with speakers at the pulpit, are there materials preferred for the construction of a pushpit, does the location of a pulpit within a religious venue hold significance, how does a pulpit differ from a pushpit, what safety considerations should be taken into account with a pushpit, can anyone speak from the pulpit in a religious setting, what maintenance does a pushpit require, can the design of a pushpit affect the performance of a boat, is there a historical evolution of pulpit design, are there modern alternatives to traditional pulpits, how does the concept of a pulpit translate in non-christian religions, share your discovery.

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Digital edition

Cheap and easy pushpit seat

Ben Meakins
February 15, 2010

Consider canvas...

A cheap way to make a seat for your pushpit is to cut a piece of canvas or acrylic to the correct corner shape, install eyes in the corners and lash it tight to the pushpit. You can also use a piece of plywood if you prefer a more solid seat.

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Sailboat Reviews

A Stern Look at Boat Sterns

Photos by Ralph Naranjo

Nothing stereotypes a cruising sailboat more than whats going on at the bow and stern. Both ends of the boat tell a lot about cruising preferences and what assets and obstacles will arise in a seaway.

In the January 2013 issue of Practical Sailor , we took a close look at the bow and noted the trend toward plumb stems, multiple furlers, and a longer resting waterline. We also recognized the tradeoffs involved, such as the need to perch the anchor further forward on a mini sprit or small strut in order to keep the flukes from chewing away at the topsides. When it comes to ground-tackle handling, its clear that for decades, cruisers have understood and retained a commitment to anchor deployment and retrieval-and designers and builders have responded appropriately. However, an even bigger shift in yacht design has overtaken the aft end of the modern production sailboat-and the implications are hard to miss.

During our dock walks at this past years boat shows, PS editors focused on the back of the boats, and here we delve into the implications and look of modern stern design and what this means for those underway and those enjoying a remote anchorage.

More Beam Aft

The first of these is the trend toward more beam aft and its growing acceptance among racing and cruising sailors. Performance sailors see that the uptick in form stability equates to extra sail-carrying capacity and a hulls willingness to climb onto a plane during power reaches. Designers realized that placing a hydro-dynamically shaped bulb at the bottom of a very deep fin keel attached to a wide canoe-shaped hull can deliver enough secondary righting moment to make the pizza slice-shaped resting waterline adequate for offshore sailing. However, when such water-plane footprints show up in the cruising fleet, they often arrive sans deep keel and with lower ballast ratios, considerably less draft, and a shortfall in secondary righting moment.

Many naval architects see the plethora of wide, shoal-draft, sub 30-percent ballast ratio cruisers as perfectly viable inshore/coastal cruisers, but they balk when it comes to the boats appropriateness for offshore use. We agree, and in an upcoming issue, we will address making sense of stability indicators, the ISO STIX formula, and whats involved in staying right side up.

The glass half-empty squadron likes to sneer that the new ultra-wide sterns are there to expedite boarding at boat shows. But summertime, warm-weather coastal cruisers seem to like the supersized sundecks and the beckoning easy access to the water. Fewer and fewer boats provide the traditional deep well, small cockpit feel that offered kind motion and good protection from spray and breaking waves. Todays cockpits have more of a wide-open feel, and the offshore passagemaking symbol of a lean double-ender with a self-steering vane securely bolted to the trailing edge has become pass-at least, thats the case among the fleet at boat shows.

We see some significant up sides to the new trend toward connectivity to the sea and attributes like a cockpit with a picnic table. But not all of these features favor offshore passagemaking.

Wide-open Cockpits

One issue that rose above the rest is that an ideal stern section and cockpit layout for the racer is anything but the right solution for the cruiser. Crews differ in size, rail meat is an alien concept to most cruisers, and obsession over mark roundings and the speed of a sail change diminish. In some ways, its like defining the right car design for a Baja 500 and a soccer mom. Add to this the inshore and offshore renditions of cruising, and its a bit of a surprise that all user groups are being led to boats with big broad transoms and maximum beam moved further aft.

The room-to-roam feeling of open space and increased deck area does afford a big-boat feel and may be a welcome attribute at anchor. But as one crusty naval architect I know put it, fiberglass is cheap, and space is free. The real question is whether the added area is an all-around asset. A closer look shows that along with bringing the beam aft, builders have added twin wheels at opposing stern quarters, and on many boats, one can use the pushpit as a backrest and steer with an unencumbered view of what lies ahead. However, the very same trajectory in open-ocean sailing is the antithesis of deep-well cockpit protection. The bimini does nothing to halt sea spray or deflect a dollop of green water. Many wide cockpit designs lack adequate handholds, which can be problematic in a developing seaway. The closer we looked, the more we felt that these room-to-roam stern sections were at their best sailing flat, but when significantly heeled in a pitching seaway, the big advantage of a wide stern, with a helm at each quarter, came into question.

During our boat-show tour, as we stepped aboard each boat, we mentally turned the tranquility of a boat-show slip into varying angles of heel and different degrees of sea state-induced boat motion. Mimicking the way a designer heels a hull using a Rhino CAD program, we imagined a 15-degree heel, increased it to a caught over canvassed 30-degree heel, and punctuated the steep angle with some three-dimensional pitch, roll, and yaw gyrations. We focused on what would be going on at the helm(s) and how getting from here-to-there across a spacious, but inclined cockpit would up the chances for an undesirable slip or fall.

In millpond conditions, the distance you are from the vessels centerline and center of buoyancy goes unnoticed. But add some imaginary pitching, sporadic wind gusts, and wave impacts to your mind-modeling, and picture what an imaginary helmsperson perched at the windward helm of a wide transom sloop would be encountering. The person at the helm would indeed be in full contact with the elements. They could move to the leeward helm, and the extreme beam carried aft would block some of the wind and spray, along with visibility of whats going on the windward side of the boat. Many salesmen tout the clear open pathway down the centerline of the cockpit and how the wheels perched toward the rail are well out of the way. In short, many of the big fair-weather advantages of the wide-open cockpits go away when conditions deteriorate.

Davits on a Wide Stern

A wide, full stern affords a lot of buoyancy along with a span thats wide enough to accommodate davits for hoisting a dinghy while making a near-shore or coastal run. However, there are important design criteria to consider before deciding to carry a good-sized RIB on davits. The first thing to recognize is that any extra weight added above the center of gravity (CG) decreases a sailboats angle of vanishing stability (AVS), and many wide, shoal-draft, low-ballast-ratio boats have very little to spare. We are starting to see an increase in sailboats with low AVS ratings (110 or less).

Not only is a low AVS undesirable for offshore cruisers, but it means that any extra weight and windage added above the CG can increase the risk of capsize and interfere with swift recovery. In addition, when heeled precipitously, a RIB in davits is very vulnerable to breaking seas, and no davit structure is engineered to withstand the impact of thousands of pounds of green water. Those running the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) or coastal cruising and watching the weather forecasts have better odds when hauling a dinghy in the davits. Those on lengthy ocean passages are upping the ante.

With dual helm stations comes a dual-flywheel effect that impacts the efficiency of a boats autopilot. Add to this the extra cables or drag links associated with connecting both wheels to the steering quadrant on the rudder stock, and its obvious that there will be more friction in the system and more components that can fail. Those making long passages shorthanded and relying on an autopilot need to consider such factors.

Cleats and chocks are another key feature of every cruising boats stern quarter. Not only do they need to be securely anchored and backed, but they must be easy to work. They may be used for mooring, attaching dock lines, or affixing a drogue bridle, and the loads imposed can be substantial.

By crawling into an aft locker with a flashlight, you can usually see how the hardware has been attached to the deck. Look for backing plates, large shoulder washers, and fasteners penetrating the hull-to-deck joint (with inward-turning flange joints), because this is where solid fiberglass replaces core material. Large cleats and chocks are an asset as long as they have been well attached to the deck.

The take-home point is that before deciding whether a boat is right for you, you first must know how your boat will be used; then determine whether or not the design attributes of the stern and cockpit layout make sense.

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Lifelines, Pulpit & Pushpit

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Lifelines should be at least 30 inches high, preferably higher . They should have backup plates, but they should not be bolted through cored portions of the deck. ( All in the Same Boat, p. 105 )
…a design feature that can affect the utiltity of the cockpit is the arrangement of the lifelines. On boats that are relatively narrow aft, the lifelines and their stanchions can obstruct work on the sides of the cockpit or on the side decks….I fitted a new set of stanchions [angled 10 degrees outboard in order to allow for the genoa jib to be sheeted inboard of the lifeline for windward work]…this added 22 square feet of space inside the lifelines, which was most noticeable in the area of the cockpit and side decks particularly when a crew member when forward on the windward side when the boat was heeled. ( Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 124 )
Test lifelines by tying a line tot he middle, halfway between stanchions, leading the line to a block on the rail and then to a winch, and pulling down so there is 200 – 300 pounds of strain on the wire. The lifelines should take the pull ( Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 289 )
Use the largest diameter wire possible. The stanchion holes may require enlarging or the wire bought without a plastic covering to obtain a 5/16” or larger diameter. Most often, 7x7x19 wire is used for lifelines, but there’s no real need for flexibility, 1×19 wire is a stronger choice . ( Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 158 )
Lifelines serve several important functions: A handhold when going forward, a brace for the legs, and to contain sails dropped on deck. ( Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 157 )
The usual method of attaching lifelines to pulpits and pushpits is to weld a piece of bent stainless steel rod to the pulpit or pushpit. The pin of a forked rigging terminal on te end of the lifeline connects to the rod. Over time,t he rod welds are prone to failure. A better approach is to weld solid-metal plates to the pulpit and pushpit, drilling them to take the rigging terminal pin. ( Cruising Handbook, p. 97 )
…only 316 stainless steel should be used. Better yet is to leave the plastic off altogether because it traps moisture and promotes corrosion. However, this makes the lifelines hard on the hands and leaves rust stains on clothing hung up to dry). We compromise by having plastic-coated upper lifelines (for comfort), but omitting the plastic on the lower lifelines…As of 1999, the ORC banned plastic coated lifelines. ( Cruising Handbook, p. 98 )
Coated wire is an astonishing bad idea. Not only does the coating promote corrosion by depriving the stainless steel of essential oxygen, but by design the inevitable corrosion of the wire is hidden from view…the Offshore Racing Congress (ORC) bans coated lifelines. ( This Old Boat, p. 137 )
The best wire for lifelines is Type 316 1×19 wire rigging wire. The same outside diameter will deliver more than 3x the strength of coated wire, the 316 alloy will resist corrosion for a long time, and if any does occur, it will be immediately visible for evaluation. ( This Old Boat, p. 137 )
If you decide on the greater safety of uncoated wire, you should pair this with the greater strength of either machine swaged or swagless terminals. you will need a rigging shop to install swaged terminals . Several manufacturers offer complete lines of swaged lifeline fittings, including integral pelican hooks, gate eyes, turnbuckles, and threaded adjusters. These make for very attractive lifeline installations, and because the swages lives live their lives horizontal, internal corrosion is less prevalent. ( This Old Boat, p. 137 )
I prefer a turnbuckle because it allows tension to be eased and the clevis pin removed to drop the entire lifeline to deck level between any pair of stanchions , effectively giving you a wide and ideally located boarding or loading gate. ( This Old Boat, p. 138 )
The gates themselves need to be close to the widest part of the boat (to minimize the distance from the dock when moored alongside), but also opposite the entry to the cockpit (to make loading of people and supplies easier). ( Cruising Handbook, p. 96 )
The type that has a spring-loaded pin (like a snap shackle is better [for closing the gates]….
Most lifeline gates are about 2’ wide, which is not wide enough to haula possibly unconscious crew member, who has gone over the side, back onboard. The facilitate rescues, at least one set of lifelines should be attached to their gate stanchion, either with pelican hooks, or else attached with multiple turns of light line that can be cut free in seconds. ( Cruising Handbook, p. 97 )
…advocate abandoning gates in favor of a continuous lifeline from bow to stern . In my experience gates are rarely in the right place anyway. They are like an open manhole in the dark if accidentally left open. They at least double the number of end fittings thus doubling to the possibility of fitting failure, not to mention doubling the fitting cost. (If safety is your concern, you are paying more to get less). And as an added benefit, a pair of boat-length runs of rigging wire can be priceless onboard resource in the event of a rigging failure . ( This Old Boat, p. 136 )

Lifelines – Stanchions

The Offshore Racing Council (ORC) specifies double lifelines, and stanchions of at least 24” height (some sailors feel 27 – 30” is better), thru bolted or welded to the deck. They should be spaced no more than seven feet apart. Custom made stanchions of 1” 316 stainless steel pipe (which has a thicker wall than tubing) will be stronger than most commercially available types. Weld them to 3/16” bases with four bolt holes. ( Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 157 )
…bulwarks of 6” or more, the stanchion also can be bolted in the vertical plane , which is much stronger. Quality stanchions should be welded to their bases or fastened by bolts, not by Allen set screws, which only dimple the metal and let loose as soon as a strong force is exerted. (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 158)
Given 30” stanchions, lifelines can be as high as 34 inches, which puts them close to hip height. Never use 20 – 24” lifelines on an offshore boat – they are little better than trip wires….when looking at stanchion mounts, remember that they need to be designed not only to stop people from falling overboard, but also to take the stresses of people using them to push the boat off dock… ( Cruising Handbook, p. 95 )

Pulpit & Pushpit

On a cruising boat, the stern pushpit gets a lot of use…outboard motor; there will also be a stern anchor and its rode…A home has to be found for a Lifesling (Crew-Link) or ring buoy and maybe a crew overboard pole (Dan buoy). there may also be a barbecue grill (disassembled and stowed before going to sea, which requires another substantial space). Many of us have a wind vane solar panels, and a wind generator to squeeze into the same general area. And we still have to be able to board the boat from the water so we have to find room for a ladder….it is worth noting the accumulated weight of all this gear, as well as the various fluids stowed in or near the lazarette. ( Cruising Handbook, p. 103 – 4 )

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Add-on Stern Pulpit

Thread starter Zach Grammon
Start date Nov 4, 2016
Catalina Owner Forums
Catalina 22

Zach Grammon

Recently I gave an old car to a friend of my brother. The young guy is a stainless steel welder, and as we were talking, I mentioned that I've always wanted to start welding. He asked what I would weld, and I told him about wanting a stern pulpit for my 1973 C-22. He said he would be interested in tackling that this winter, once worked slowed down, as a sort of trade for the car. So...if you could design a stern pulpit, what would you change to the original design? Or would you save the poor soul from trying to tackle the project in the first place. Also, I have young kids, so while the boat doesn't "need" them, they would be for my peace of mind. I've included a link to the Catalina Direct design for reference. https://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/677_20/stern-pulpit-c-22--85.cfm

Our original C-22,(1980 version), came with the stations, but no stern pulpit. The safety lines led down and were terminated along the cockpit combing. I ended up buying a stern pulpit from a dealer who ordered one for a customer that never returned to buy it. We really liked the way it looked on the boat, and after many years, I wouldn't changed a thing from the original design. Don

C22-Daydreamer

CD had the separated stern pulpits on clearance the ones design for the Capri that could be installed on the C22's. So I snapped them up. They had some scratcheson the railing. I didn't have any front or back. Found a bow pulpit on ebay for under $300.00. Both are winter projects. My boat isn't perfect so I thought having a few scratches would fit the bill and save me some money. If I could afford it I would've have liked the old design that reached all the way around the stern. Maybe I'll try to find a stainless steel welder around here and have him add a cross member to tie the two separate pieces together.

Look at stern pulpits on most newer boats, they are almost always 2 piece designs. This is much easier to set up and fabricate. You have to be careful, to get everything set up right it needs to be set up on the boat, otherwise it won't fit correctly after finish welding (welding heat causes metal to move... A LOT). If I had a tube bender I would have made new ones rather than modify my old one.

FWIW, Railmakers has a drawing of the hardpoints. They sell rails for the C22 if you decide that route. http://railmakers.com/yachts/catalina-yachts/PDF-files/catalina22-Stern-29002.pdf

CloudDiver said: Look at stern pulpits on most newer boats, they are almost always 2 piece designs. Click to expand

Jackdaw said: Yep. This is an artifact from the old days when the transom of a sailboat was almost as pinched as the bow. As transoms got wider, it became more and more common to connect two corner rails with lifelines across the back. As cloud notes now one-piece aft pulpits are gone. Click to expand

CaptDon01 said: View attachment 130486 For what it's worth, the 2016 C-22 still uses a one piece stern pulpit. Don Click to expand

CloudDiver said: Don, I would call that one a Hybrid. Each half is probably made in a Jig independently, then set up to add the single cross tube for the traveler bar as a last step. This is a good example to use as a guide, a fabricator could make the two halves first and mount them up, tacking on the traveler tube last. From a fabrication point of view this method would greatly eliminate various opportunities for 'play' (misalignment, movement of tube as it is heated from the welds). Click to expand

Never liked that C22 traveler design. It's an accommodation for the transom hung rudder and to provide a six foot bench. It makes much more sense to install the traveler on a bridge near mid cockpit, for a vertical run to boom's end. That location, however, would not sell boats to "family in the cockpit" sailors. So I get it.. Another alternative is to move traveler to a separate bridge and remove the pushpit. This would allow a much larger range of motion and still provide vertical room for tiller, when raised. Way too much trouble though... when the simple answer is to employ the vang more aggressively when going up wind.

Joe said: Never liked that C22 traveler design. It's an accommodation for the transom hung rudder and to provide a six foot bench. It makes much more sense to install the traveler on a bridge near mid cockpit, for a vertical run to boom's end. That location, however, would not sell boats to "family in the cockpit" sailors. So I get it.. Another alternative is to move traveler to a separate bridge and remove the pushpit. This would allow a much larger range of motion and still provide vertical room for tiller, when raised. Way too much trouble though... when the simple answer is to employ the vang more aggressively when going up wind. Click to expand

Joe, The factory traveler on a C-22 is pretty much useless in my opinion. I always say the best thing it's good for is pulling the mainsheet to the side to get at the BBQ grill on the stern pulpit. You'll see more and more of the racers abandoning them in the future I believe. The 3rd place boat in the C-22 Nationals this year didn't even use a traveler, (class rules don't say you have to use it). The boom is too weak in my opinion to hold up to sheeting in over the companionway, plus like you mention, the trip hazard. The new Selden spars are much stronger in my opinion, and could handle the loads, (think Capri-22). Don

Jackdaw said: maybe, buts its a 40 year old design! Click to expand

SCameronBrown

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