 I’m Arch Davis – I learned boatbuilding and design in New Zealand in the 1970s. I have been helping people to build beautiful wooden boats since 1988. You can see a few of them by clicking on Picture Gallery . My approach to design is to put into your hands the means to use modern materials – marine plywood and epoxy resin – to build a truly lovely boat with classic lines. I believe that a boat should be beautiful, not just by virtue of her lines, but also in her construction. No material makes this possible like wood. My aim is to take advantage of wood’s unique strengths, in a structure that captivates the eye. I want you to feel that you are always doing good work in building one of these boats.  You’ll see that I have a small collection of designs. That is because I understand your need for clear, comprehensible, detailed plans and instructions. I put a lot of time into my drawings, building manuals and DVDs. I also spend a lot of time helping people through their projects, on the phone or by e-mail. I really am here to help!  If you see something that you like in my collection, please feel free to contact me with any questions. I am available on the phone at 207-930-9873, or email me at [email protected] . Wooden Boat Plans and Boat Kits by Arch Davis Grace's Tender - More than just a tender, this little dinghy is a fine vessel in her own right. She is a pleasure to row, and sprightly under her simple sailing rig - a great boat for youngsters to mess about in. Bay Pilot 18 - an 18 ft pilothouse cruiser for outboard power. Laughing Gull - 16 ft self-bailing sailing/rowing skiff. Ace 14 - 14 ft performance daysailer Penobscot 13 - 13 ft little sister to Penobscot 14. Penobscot 14 - 14 ft glued lapstrake sailing/rowing skiff. Penobscot 17 - big sister to the Penobscot 14 Sand Dollar - 11 ft sailing/rowing skiff. Jack Tar - 26 ft plywood lobster boat design Jiffy 9-7 - suitable for rowing or a small outboard motor Jiffy 22 - outboard powered cabin skiff Jiffv V-22 - vee-bottom sister of the Jiffy 22 About My Boat KitsI also have epoxy kits and plywood packages for all my designs, plus sails, rigging, and numerous other items. Here's my daughter, Grace, setting up the frames for a Grace's Tender kit. 
Please call or write to me at: Arch Davis Design 37 Doak Road Belfast, Maine 04915 Tel:207-930-9873If you would like to receive a newsletter from Arch Davis Design, send me an e-mail at [email protected]
50th Anniversary Collectors Issue - September/October Issue No. 300 Preview Now  Plans & KitsIf you’re in the market for a boat to build, this directory of Boat Plans & Kits is a fine place to start. And if your company sells plans or kits, we invite you to list your offerings here. There is no charge for listing, but the featured boats must be built of wood. To refine your search of this directory, use quotation marks. If you search Nutshell Pram Kit, you’ll receive all the listings that include the words Nutshell, Pram, and Kit. To refine your search, enter “Nutshell Pram Kit”; you’ll then see only the results for Nutshell Pram kits. Post Your Boat Plans & Kits Post Your Plans/Kits login or registerSearch plans & kits. To refine your search, add quote marks. If you search Nutshell Pram Kit, you will get all the listings which include Nutshell, Pram, and Kit. To refine, search “Nutshell Pram Kit” and you’ll see just Nutshell Pram Kit results. 717 Results Motorboats - Outboard21′ Planing Skiff  Oar / Paddle8 ft dinghy. This is a simple 8ft stitch and glue sail/row pram. It requires only 3 sheets of marine plywood and should be very fast, easy, and inexpensive to build. It should end up just over 80lb so easy to transport as well.  Ozona X Nesting Pram PT Eleven nesting dinghyThe PT 11 is a very versatile boat. It rows, sails, and motors and it does all those things exceptionally well. It also nests for carrying on the deck of your sailboat or in the back of a vehicle.  Flats Skiff 18The Flats Stalker is a simple but rugged and easy to pole boat designed for hardcore skinny water sight fishing.  Sailboats - Cruising15' rog micro-cruiser. An expedition micro that will accommodate 2 adults for a week-end or a single-hander for up to 5 days. Ability to take on some weather and deliver solid performance while doing so. For the crew: forgiving and predictable but fast & fun. Launch time should be kept to a minimum.  Fox Decked Double Paddle CanoeFox offers a near perfect blend of stability, versatility, performance and good looks on the water. She is a double-paddle boat suitable for camping expeditions or family outings and day trips.  ROBERTS 470ROBERTS 470 - WOOD EPOXY The accommodation of this design has been laid out to suit two couples. The Roberts 470 makes a fine long distance cruising yacht.  Sponge Docks Skiff 16The Sponge Docks Skiffs are designed for first-time builders, due to their simple stitch and glue assembly, yet on the water these good looking boats are versatile, stable and dry.  Inspired by the reconstruction of a 1950's boat. Share your boatbuilding plans or kits today. Login Sign up From the Community Whitehall 16 ft. Sailing & Rowing Boat16 foot Whitehall rowing and sailing boat. Maine built 1985.  Pre 1905 Warren Cole Adirondack Guideboat LOA 16′, 42″ beamRestored in ME by Jonathan Minott (seen in WB "Launchings" July/Aug 2009).  Learning Curve is for sale!Learning Curve, a 24 foot cat ketch sharpie drawn by Karl Stambaugh. Boat Launchings Begun in 2020 blissfully ignorant of rabbets, rabbet planes, and most things nautical, she took m From Online Exclusives WoodenBoat Live with Arista HoldenExtended content.  The Parallel Passions of Oliver Berking A Visit to the Campus of WoodenBoat—Part 2
Sailboat Plans Free Sailboat PlansA selection of some of the Free Sailboat Plans (pdf) that were published in magazines such as “Popular Mechanics”, "Popular Science" and the "Boat Builder Handbook". If you need help with lofting out the plans click here for an article here which should help.
Open/Dayboat, Free Sailboat PlansEveryone who digs boating has heard of the Hobie Cat, the sleek little catamaran that burst on the scene and captured the attention of all the fast-action sailors.  Marked by asymmetrical hulls and special trampoline supports, the Hobie can reach speeds above 20 mph and perform with a rare agility. But it has one drawback. It costs mucho dinero. Thus, we introduce the Hobby Kat, sailboat plans, a build-it-yourself version of the “Hobie” that should cost from half to a third of the commercial version. If you have the moola, of course, go for a Hobie and have the time of your life on the water. If not, try our Hobby The homebuilt is not quite the same. But she sails sweetly and fast—qualities which have made the “Hobie” popular Even in a light air she’ll slip through the water at a fast clip. She has no centreboards, leeboards or keel, and needs none. The inside of each hull has built-in lift, like an airplane wing, so that as the boat heels and one hull digs in the boat is pulled back to windward. Click Here for the Plans She can run in very shallow water and the rudders kick up for beaching. You can carry her on a trailer or even disassemble her.  Many a “stink pot” addict will take a second look at Tern because she planes in modest breezes, is easy to handle, and her streamlined prow arid pod-shaped, “inland scow” type hull offer slight water resistance. Then too, there’s a charm about the tiller of a sailer that’s not matched by the wheel of a motor-powered boat. Part of it is the challenge of making the most of nature’s free-wheeling breezes. Even with her 72sq.ft of sail, this Free Sailboat Plan is remarkably stable, and packs as many as four persons aboard For thousands of inland lakes, Tern is the answer to sailing water sport, she is rugged and easy to launch And she’s remarkably easy to build.  Falcon is a small, speedy, sporty sailboat which handles well. Tests on the original Falcon showed that she could easily out-distance boats of comparable size such as the one design class Snipe and Comet sailers. And she will pace neck and neck with 18 footers with considerably greater sail spread.  This strong, beamy, eight-foot pram may be sailed either cat-rigged or sloop-rigged. The dagger-board may be adjusted forward to balance the helm when sailing with the addition of a jib sail. Oars or a small outboard motor may also be used to power this versatile Free Sailboat Plans.  Dart” is a small two or three person sailing craft, designed for use on protected waters such as bays. lakes, rivers or wherever sheltered waters are found. Its construction will repay the builder handsomely and provide a fast sailing craft, light in weight, easily transportable and cheap to construct with all difficult joinery eliminated It provides thrilling and economical sport.  The 'Crescent', designed by C. T. Allen, is the ideal sailboat for day sailing on a small lake, river, or protected waters of a bay. Centreboard design (Fig. 2) reduces Crescent's draft, so Shallow is not a problem. Its broad beam of over 5½ft. makes it an ideal family boat because there is room for a cockpit large enough to accommodate four adults or two adults and three kids, and side and forward decks big enough to stretch out on when sun bathing. "Jewel" is a 16' Crescent Sailboat being built by Mike Allen from the free sailboat plans by C.T .Allen in the 1958 "Boat Builders Handbook". And what a superb job Mike is doing check out his photos here . Click Here for the Free version of the Plans  Sailing enthusiasts and backyard boat builders are not likely to find free boat plans for a sailing pram that can be built faster, lighter, stronger, or less expensively than Graefin-10. Two men can begin work on a Friday evening and have a smart, lively 10-ft. 85-pound sailboat in the water by Sunday evening (it’s been done).  Zephyr Is a refinement of a type of boat developed by the English for use in the rough open waters of the English Channel. Not only is it fast under sail, but it can stand up under punishment. And it’s light enough to be easily loaded atop an auto or light trailer. Breeze-Baby Skimming off a brisk wind or with the wind abeam, Breeze-Baby actually planes with one person aboard. Despite her rowboat lines that make her easy to build, she handles easily under her simple sail, an ideal first boat. Simple lines are adapted to plywood construction that’s strong, light and that keeps Breeze-Baby’s bilges dry You can take her with you atop your car or on a lightweight trailer for summer fun wherever you vacation or get in a week-end’s sailing.  Cat’s Paw is easy to build because of the straight-sided hulls. The sheer line is flat and that simplifies building the form. Bow and stern are straight, so there’s no cockeyed bevel to fit and fuss with She Is an Ideal boat to learn or practice sailing in because she will forgive so many mistakes. Cabin Cruiser, Free Sailboat Plans Previous postsSee What Others Have Posted  Recent Articles Boat WinchesJun 21, 24 04:18 AM
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Build Your Own Boat! Stitch & Glue Designs The Flats River Skiff 12 is a light, compact and stable solo skiff to access shallow water.
 The Flats River Skiff 14 is the big sister to the FRS-12 , a light weight 2 person solo style skiff.
 The Flats River Skiff 15 is a flats style 2 person shallow water hunting & fishing boat.
 The Flats River Skiff 16 hits the sweet spot for a 3-4 person shallow water fishing boat.
 The Flats River Skiff 18 is the perfect bay and flats fishing boat.
Cold Molded Designs The CS-18 is a smaller version of our original CS-21 for those looking for a smaller boat with lower freeboard to inshore waters.
 The CS-21 was inspired by the iconic Harkers Island style work boats. This center console design features unmistakable lines, a Carolina flared bow and a modified V bottom.
 The CB-17 is the sister design to the FRS-16. She stands out as a custom flats boat with Carolina flare and rounded transom.
 The C-25 is a North Carolina sport fishing boat in a trailerable center console layout. With Carolina flared bow, broken shear and tumblehome she is an iconic design.
More Info and Helpful LinksHow to videos, plans & kits. DIY Boat Building Plans Wooden Boat Plans & Blueprints Download over 500 Boat Plans. Click on the link below.-->click here<--. Table of Contents Overview of Wooden Boat Plans & BlueprintsWooden boats have a timeless charm and appeal that captivates many enthusiasts. These vessels, with their elegant lines and natural beauty, evoke a sense of nostalgia and adventure. At the heart of every successful wooden boat project lies a set of detailed plans and blueprints. These comprehensive guides are essential for the construction of a seaworthy and visually stunning craft. Wooden boat plans provide a roadmap for the entire building process, ensuring that the final product meets the desired specifications and maintains its structural integrity. Whether you’re a seasoned boat builder or a passionate hobbyist, understanding the importance of these plans is crucial for embarking on your nautical journey. Key Takeaways
 The Importance of Detailed Boat PlansBoat plans serve as a comprehensive guide for the construction process, outlining every step and component in meticulous detail. These detailed schematics ensure that the final vessel is not only aesthetically pleasing but also structurally sound and seaworthy. By following the precise measurements, materials , and techniques outlined in the plans, builders can have confidence in the stability and performance of their wooden boat. Accurate plans are essential for maintaining the structural integrity of the vessel. Wooden boats , with their complex curves and intricate joinery, require precise engineering to withstand the stresses of the marine environment. The plans provide the necessary information to ensure that the boat’s frame, hull , and other critical components are designed and constructed to handle the demands of the open water. This attention to detail not only enhances the boat’s safety but also contributes to its longevity, allowing it to be enjoyed for generations to come. Choosing the Right Wooden Boat DesignWhen embarking on a wooden boat project, the first step is to select the right design that aligns with your preferences, skill level, and intended use. Factors such as the boat’s size, purpose, and the builder’s experience all play a crucial role in this decision. For those new to wooden boat building , it’s essential to choose a design that matches their skill level and available resources. Smaller, simpler designs may be more suitable for beginners , as they often require fewer specialized tools and materials. As the builder’s confidence and expertise grow, they can explore more complex and ambitious designs that cater to their evolving needs and preferences. The diverse range of wooden boat designs available caters to a wide variety of enthusiasts. From classic sailboats and sleek motorboats to sturdy workboats and elegant canoes , the options are endless. Researching and comparing different designs can help prospective builders find the perfect match for their nautical dreams, whether they envision a family-friendly cruiser or a high-performance racing yacht . Understanding the Components of Boat Plans
Delving into the intricate world of boat plans requires a thorough understanding of the various components that make up these comprehensive documents. From the hull and deck to the rigging and hardware, each element is meticulously detailed to guide the builder through the construction process. The hull, the foundation of the boat, is typically the most complex and crucial component of the plans. The detailed drawings and specifications outline the shape, dimensions, and structural elements of the hull, ensuring that it is designed to withstand the forces of the water. The deck plans, on the other hand, provide the necessary information for constructing the upper portion of the boat, including the layout, hatches, and other features. Interpreting the technical drawings and specifications within the boat plans is essential for a successful build. These detailed schematics, often accompanied by explanatory notes and measurements, allow builders to visualize the final product and translate the plans into a physical reality. By familiarizing themselves with the various components and their interconnections, builders can develop a comprehensive understanding of the boat’s design and construction, ultimately leading to a more rewarding and successful project. Sourcing High-Quality Wooden Boat BlueprintsObtaining reliable and accurate boat plans is a crucial step in the wooden boat building process. Identifying reputable sources for these essential documents is key to ensuring a successful and satisfying project. There are numerous avenues for sourcing high-quality wooden boat blueprints, from specialized boat plan publishers to online marketplaces and even direct from boat designers. When evaluating potential sources, it’s important to consider factors such as the level of detail, the reputation of the provider, and the availability of support and guidance throughout the construction process. Carefully examining the quality and completeness of the boat plans is essential. Detailed drawings, clear specifications, and comprehensive instructions are hallmarks of a well-designed set of blueprints. Builders should also look for plans that provide additional resources, such as material lists, tool recommendations, and step-by-step construction guidance, to further enhance the building experience. By investing in high-quality wooden boat blueprints from trusted sources, builders can have confidence in the accuracy and reliability of the plans, ultimately leading to a successful and rewarding boat-building journey. Interpreting and Utilizing Boat Plans EffectivelyMastering the art of interpreting and utilizing boat plans is a crucial step in the wooden boat building process. These comprehensive documents serve as the roadmap for the entire construction, and a thorough understanding of their contents is essential for a successful project. Developing a deep familiarity with the boat plans, from the technical drawings to the accompanying instructions, is the foundation for a smooth and efficient build. Builders must carefully study the plans, familiarizing themselves with the various components, their dimensions, and the specific construction techniques required. This level of understanding allows them to visualize the final product and anticipate potential challenges or modifications that may arise during the building process. Effectively translating the boat plans into the physical construction of the vessel is where the true magic happens. By meticulously following the plans, builders can ensure that each step of the process, from the initial framing to the final finishing touches, aligns with the designer’s vision. This attention to detail not only enhances the structural integrity of the boat but also contributes to its overall aesthetic appeal and performance on the water. Customizing Wooden Boat Designs to Suit Your NeedsThe world of wooden boat building offers a unique opportunity for enthusiasts to explore the possibilities of customization and adaptation. While pre-existing boat designs provide a solid foundation, the ability to modify and tailor these plans to suit individual preferences and requirements can truly make a project a one-of-a-kind creation. Exploring the potential for customization opens up a world of possibilities for wooden boat builders. Whether it’s adjusting the dimensions to accommodate a specific space or incorporating personalized features and details, the flexibility of boat plans allows for a high degree of customization. Builders can draw inspiration from various design elements, blending traditional aesthetics with modern innovations to create a vessel that truly reflects their unique vision. However, customizing boat plans requires a careful and thoughtful approach. Builders must carefully consider the structural implications of any modifications, ensuring that the integrity and seaworthiness of the vessel are not compromised. By working closely with the plan’s designer or consulting with experienced boat builders, enthusiasts can navigate the process of customization with confidence, ultimately crafting a wooden boat that is a true reflection of their personal style and needs. Building Your Dream Wooden Boat from ScratchThe culmination of the wooden boat building journey is the actual construction of the vessel, where the detailed plans and blueprints come to life. This hands-on process, while challenging, can be immensely rewarding for those who are willing to invest the time, effort, and dedication required. Gathering the necessary tools, materials, and resources is the first step in the construction process. Builders must ensure that they have access to high-quality wood, specialized hardware, and the appropriate power tools and equipment to tackle each stage of the build. Additionally, having a well-equipped workspace, whether it’s a dedicated workshop or a backyard shed, can greatly facilitate the construction process. With the plans in hand and the necessary materials and tools at the ready, the step-by-step guidance provided in the boat plans becomes the foundation for the actual construction. From the initial framing and hull shaping to the intricate joinery and final finishing touches, each stage of the build requires meticulous attention to detail and a deep understanding of the plans. By following the instructions and techniques outlined in the blueprints, builders can navigate the construction process with confidence, gradually transforming their vision into a tangible, seaworthy wooden boat. Maintaining and Preserving Your Wooden BoatThe journey of wooden boat building doesn’t end with the completion of the construction process. Proper maintenance and preservation techniques are essential for ensuring the longevity and continued enjoyment of your handcrafted vessel. Maintaining the structural integrity and aesthetic appeal of a wooden boat requires a dedicated approach. Regular inspections, preventive maintenance, and timely repairs are crucial for keeping the boat in top condition. Builders must familiarize themselves with the specific care and upkeep requirements outlined in the boat plans, as well as any additional guidance from experienced boat owners and restoration experts. Preserving the natural beauty and functionality of a wooden boat is a labor of love. From regular cleaning and varnishing to protecting the wood from the elements, the preservation process requires a meticulous and ongoing effort. By investing in the proper care and maintenance techniques, wooden boat owners can ensure that their beloved craft continues to turn heads and navigate the waters with grace and elegance for years to come. Ultimately, the journey of wooden boat building is a testament to the enduring appeal of these timeless vessels. From the initial selection of the boat plans to the final launch and beyond, each step is a rewarding and fulfilling experience that connects enthusiasts to the rich maritime heritage and the joy of crafting something truly unique. By embracing the art of wooden boat building, enthusiasts can create a lasting legacy, passing on their passion and their handcrafted vessels to future generations of nautical adventurers.  Conclusion – Wooden Boat Plans & BlueprintsIn conclusion, wooden boat plans and blueprints are the indispensable tools that unlock the world of boat building for enthusiasts and novices alike. These meticulously crafted guides provide the roadmap to transform your dream vessel into a tangible reality. By following their precise measurements, materials, and instructions, you not only ensure the accuracy and completeness of your project but also save valuable time and resources. The benefits of using wooden boat plans and blueprints extend beyond just a successful build. You have the freedom to create a boat that aligns with your unique preferences, whether you seek simplicity or complexity, small or large, rowboat or sailboat. The customization possibilities are as boundless as the open water. These plans are not confined to a single purpose – they can serve as a fulfilling hobby, an educational tool, a potential business venture, or even a heartfelt gift to surprise your loved ones. Embrace them as a challenge to hone your skills and improve your capabilities as a boat builder. The various types of wooden boat plans and blueprints cater to a wide array of preferences, from flat-bottomed boats for shallow waters to round-bottomed boats for stability in deeper seas, V-bottomed boats for agile efficiency, and multi-hull boats for added buoyancy and comfort. The options are as diverse as the waterways you intend to explore. In your journey to create your wooden boat, you can find these plans and blueprints in books, magazines, websites, and even software programs. With the right plan in hand, you can venture into the world of boat building with confidence. FAQs – Wooden Boat Plans & BlueprintsWhat are wooden boat plans and blueprints. Wooden boat plans and blueprints are detailed instructions and diagrams that guide boat builders in constructing wooden boats . They include information on the materials needed, measurements, and step-by-step instructions for building the boat. What types of wooden boats can be built using plans and blueprints?There are various types of wooden boats that can be built using plans and blueprints, including canoes, kayaks , rowboats, sailboats, and powerboats. The plans and blueprints are usually specific to the type of boat being built. Where can I find wooden boat plans and blueprints?Wooden boat plans and blueprints can be found online, in books, and from boat building supply companies. Some plans and blueprints are free, while others require payment. What materials are needed to build a wooden boat?The materials needed to build a wooden boat depend on the type and size of the boat being built. Generally, wooden boats require marine-grade plywood , lumber, epoxy, fiberglass , and hardware such as screws, bolts, and nails. Do I need to have experience in boat building to use wooden boat plans and blueprints?While experience in boat building can be helpful, it is not always necessary to use wooden boat plans and blueprints. Many plans and blueprints are designed for beginners and include detailed instructions and diagrams to guide the builder through the process. Can I modify wooden boat plans and blueprints?Yes, wooden boat plans and blueprints can be modified to suit the builder’s needs or preferences. However, it is important to ensure that any modifications do not compromise the safety or structural integrity of the boat.  Written by DIY Boat Building Plans How To Build a Utility Boat How to Build a DinghyLIST of WOODEN BOAT PLANS – By Michael StorerPlywood boat plans and wooden canoe plans. sailing dinghy . power . row . paddle . overnight, a boat building course in a book. Click on an image for more information about our inexpensive, highly detailed boat plans and wooden canoe plans Viola 14 Sailing Canoe Boat PlanA sailing canoe to make dinghy sailors happy – 75lbs and for a simple boat, beautiful beyond belief – visit page. Viola 14 Sailing Canoe is fun and exciting. But easier than a sailing dinghy to transport and store. Canoe performance and Dinghy stability. 14ft – 75 pounds (34kg) Viola is extremely stable allowing the crew to stand up and step and unstep the lug rig mast while on the water. Try that in a symmetric paddling canoe hullform! If righted correctly she is almost dry after capsize. Three Sailing rigs with two piece masts 4.7 and 6.0sqm full batten rigs. 6.3m balance lug with three reefs for distance sailing. 75lb hull. Four sheets 4mm plywood. More about the Viola 14 Sailing Canoe Plan here Kits For Viola 14 Canoe Europe – Viola 14 Sailing Canoe Precut Plywood and Timber Kits Americas – Viola 14 Saling Canoe Precut Plywood and Timber Kits 16ft Kombi Sail and Paddle Canoe PlanA 50/50 Sail and Paddle Canoe for one or two with more stabililty for sailing – visit page The Kombi Canoe is a development of our recent sailing canoes to bring paddling ability up equal to the sailing ability. Great for families as it can be used as a pure paddling canoe, but also sail well with one or two adults aboard. More about the Kombi Sail and Paddle Canoe here. NEW Plan – Mini Outriggers for Adding stability to sailing canoes and small dinghiesThe Mini Outriggers are to add stability to a sailing canoe or small dinghy and aid stability to reduce the risk of capsize on other relatively slender boats. They are set above the water to allow a sailing canoe or narrow dinghy to be sailed normally . More about the Mini Outriggers here. Taal Stand Up Paddleboard in PlywoodBoth speed and stability at the same time. A beautiful plywood Stand Up Paddleboard designed for distance paddling. The user feels the stability, the water thinks it is a low drag pintail. 12ft We created a board that hits the numbers for a good canoe or rowboat. Less wetted surface with a stable midsection and excellent weight carrying. 12ft and Stable for beginners but with the low drag of a kayak/pintail type hull (see the stern photos). More about the Taal Touring Stand Up Paddleboard Plan here Goat Island Skiff Sail Boat PlanSimple, modern performance and famous worldwide. Justifiably famous. Simple to build but light, fast, pretty. Fast with 1 to 4 adults Rows and Motors and will sail rings around other character boats. 15.8ft More information about the Goat Island Skiff Plan Facebook Group for asking questions about the Goat Island Skiff Quick Canoe 155 – build in 2 weekendsVery simple plywood canoe that handles well and looks right. Quick DIY wooden canoe that works better than most flat-bottomed canoes and many fibreglass ones. Even looks good on the beach. 15.5ft First one took the builder 4 1/2 hours to get on the water – but most take 2 weekends. Half the weight of many fibreglass canoes. Lighter than most plastic. 55lbs from big store plywood. Another took 5 1/2 hours . It has been designed to be as easy to build as possible while keeping most of the qualities of a nice paddling wooden canoe. In particular the ability to track – excellent first boat plan. Click here for a comparison between our fast and our classic paddling canoe plans More Information about the plywood Quick Canoe Plan Eureka Canoe – Classic Plywood Canoe PlanLight and lovely to paddle. simple plywood boat plan. Light on the land, Prettiest Plywood or wooden Canoes anywhere. 15.5ft Excellent distance touring boats. 15’6″, simple construction for a wooden canoe. 32 – 45lbs (15 to 20kg) Click here for a comparison between our paddling canoe plans. Click here for more information about the Eureka Plywood Canoe Quick Canoe Electric Cargo Canoe PlanWooden cargo canoe for electric trolling motor 34lbs thrust. 5 to 6mph using a 34lb thrust Minn Kota or other electric trolling motors. DIY plywood canoe for fishing and roof racking. Keeps the simplicity and low materials cost of the Quick Canoe Family. 15.5ft Cartop transport. Very detailed Wooden Canoe Plans. Click here for more information about the Plywood Quick Canoe Electric Oz Goose Light Family and Club Sail Boat PlanLow-cost family sailing dinghy, regattas and club training and learn to sail. The Oz Goose is a small boat that is super easy to build. Cruising or teaching with three adults or excellent club racing performance sailing with 1 or 2 in the boat. 12ft The famous line is we can build 10 of these in the Philippines for the price of importing a single Laser sailboat. Boat speeds are very matched for excellent tactical racing when not heading off for a family picnic with two adults and a bunch of kids aboard For training, the goose will carry an instructor and two adults to sail with good sensitivity and speed. In stronger winds, we commonly see downwind speeds of 10 to 13knots and sometimes much more. Also, visit the Oz Goose Group on Facebook More information about the Plywood Oz Goose – see the website “BETH” Sailing Canoe – Elegant plywood boat planSimple, brilliant performance – one person cartop – sailing canoe portability. A touch of the 1870s but fast about as much fun as is possible on a plywood boat. Yawl Rig with speed – a wooden canoe that can scare the Lasers at your local club . Racing dinghy experience recommended! A small boat for amateur boat building that is light enough for one person to roofrack 70lbs plywood canoe hull. Sailing Canoe boat plan Click here for more about the plywood BETH Sailing Canoe Plan Drop-in sail Rig Plan for Canoes and KayaksConvert a canoe or dinghy into a serious sailboat. Convert most Kayaks or Canoes into an INSTANT SAILBOAT. Everything removes as one unit except for the mast step Also fits some rowing dinghies that are small or narrow. Very cheap beginners plan. Read more about the Drop-In Sailing Rig Boat Plan Drop in Outrigger Canoe conversion PlanConvert canoe, kayak or dinghy to a fast sailboat trimaran with amas.. Create a paddle or sailing outrigger canoe from a fibreglass or wooden Canoe or Kayak. Even an elderly Grumman! Convert your old canoe into an awesome sailing machine or fishing or diving platform. Each component is under 10 pounds and everything removes cleanly from the boat apart from 4 small fittings and a mast step. These Amas and crossbeams work for fibreglass and wooden canoes and dinghies, Fibreglass, Aluminium and some plastic canoes. Performance sailing (see the video on the plan page ) or as a stable fishing platform or to make a super quick sailing multihull. If you buy the plywood boat plan for the outriggers there is a free supplement available to set it up for sailing. Very cheap plan for a big boost in performance. Find out how to convert your canoe, kayak or dinghy to a fast sailing outrigger canoe Handy Punt – simple fishing punt Boat planLight cartop load, simple to build and stable – ideal first plywood boat plan. Outboard motored Punts are the simplest plywood boats. Good performance, easy construction, stable fishing platforms. And lightweight for cartopping on roof racks. An easy first boat plan for first-time boatbuilders. 6 to 8hp – 10 in some regions Click here to find out more Outboard Punt Boat Plan Russki Wave Ski, Surf Ski, Sit Down Paddleboard Boat PlanEasy to build sit down paddleboard from two sheets ply. Simple plywood waveski or paddleboard from two sheets of plywood. Paint it and keep it on the car roof ready for use after work. Small light boats usually are used more frequently than complicated and expensive boats. Find out more about the Russki Plywood Wave Ski Plan 15 1/2 ft Storer Rowing Skiff PlanEasy pretty plywood rowing skiff plan for oar. Simple lightweight rowing skiff for one person and maybe a passenger based on the Goat Island Skiff. Or Adult and a couple of kids. Pretty and quick rowing boat on the water. Simple lightweight rowing skiff for one person and maybe a passenger or a couple of kids. Based on the Goat Island Skiff. I used to get enquiries about using the Goat Island Skiff sailboat hull for rowing. It does row well but blows around too much. This is much, much better. Pretty and quick rowing boat on the water. Find out more about the plywood Rowboat Plan Dayboat/Launches Boat Plan Bundle 23 plus 27ft (7/8.4m) VeneziaBoat plans for two simple prefabricated cruisers for low power outboard in one package – 23 and 27ft. Picnic boat, party boat, river-cruiser, camp aboard, mini home-away-from-home. Cuts through river and lake chop with zero bouncing and pitching. Pack includes 23 and 27ft Dayboat versions in one plan pack includes Venezia below. Simple plywood construction. 10 or 15hp 4-stroke for 8 to 10 knots. Venezia and Dayboat Launch Boat Plan Package More about the 23ft Plywood Dayboat/Launch Boat Plan “Venezia” 27ft trailerable canal boatStretched version of 23ft – both included in the plan above. An 8.2m (27ft) boat for gentle cruising in rivers and canals. Great appearance, sleeping accom., separate toilet – your layout. 10 to 15hp 4-stroke. 2 wooden cruising motor boat plans for the price of one – Venezia and Dayboat Launch Boat Plan Package Read more about the 27ft Venezia cruiser canal boat plan TC35 Riverboat – Prefab, Economical Liveaboard for TwoMinimal liveaboard plywood boat 35ft. Very economical, near wakeless cruising motorboat. Light on the gas and light on building materials. Revised wooden boat plan for an extremely economical, efficient low horsepower riverboat. 35ft. 1 x 15hp or 2 x 10/15hp. Simple Prefab Plywood Construction. Find out more about the TC35 River Cruiser Plywood boat plan. OZ RACER – 8ft Sailing Dinghies.Smaller versions of the 12ft oz goose sailing dinghy – 8ft for easier storage.. 12ft Oz Goose for Capacity and Performance
OzRacer RV 8ft – General purpose versionOzRacer RV is the same small boat hull but with more space in the cockpit and is a slightly simpler build. 4 sheets plywood. These Boat plans are a modern boatbuilding course in a book. Capacity 1 adult and one child or maybe 2 adults Find out more about the OzRacer RV OZ RACER Mk2 8ft – Race VersionOzRacer Mk 2 has a centreboard for more performance but a bit less room for extra crew. Three sheets plywood. Simple Plywood Boat Plans. Capacity 1 adult and one child or maybe 2 adults Find out more Free plans Oars and Single Paddle & Double paddles.Simplified paddles and oars based on classic designs – free plan.
I didn’t want to charge extra for nice paddles to go with our nice wooden Canoe plans Download Free Oar and Paddle Plans from this page. Tips and Tricks for Boatbuilding, Woodwork, Use of epoxy.CLICK HERE for many helpful articles about the selection of materials, boatbuilding and boat repair techniques. All to help home boatbuilders. The Master list of Articles we have written to explain and help out home boatbuildersBlog Articles about a whole range of design, building, sailing technique articles.  Affordable Sailboats You Can Build at Home  Key Takeaways
Buying a sailboat can be expensive, but building your own can save you money. So what are sailboats you can build from home? Sailboats that you can build from home will likely be a small boat under 20 feet. These could be from many different boat suppliers such as B&B Yachts, Brooks Boat Designs, and Chase Small Craft. Boat plans will vary based on your budget and how much time you have on your hands. Based on my previous experience, building your own boat will take much longer than if a professional were to do it. You also have to be able to study plans, consider various sailboat designs, and have tons of supplies such as fiberglass tape or fiberglass cloth. On top of that, you will also have to be good with your hands. Table of contents Top 10 Affordable Sailboats Anyone Can Build at HomeBuilding your own pocket cruiser or other styles from boat plans is an impressive feat, as this will need dedicated time and money to assure your boat sails safely. Boat building takes a lot of patience as well, especially since this will not be completed in a fast manner. Finding boat plans and materials that fit your budget will be key to being able to complete the project. The time it takes to complete these projects will vary on your overall experience and needs. Below are 10 of the most affordable sailboats that you can build in the comfort of your home. B&B Yachts B&B Yachts have 14 different boat plans you can choose from to find the boat of your desires. Their shop is located along the Bay River in North Carolina where they construct all of the kits and have a 100 foot dock to show off your project once you complete it. One popular model to check out is their Core Sound 15, as it is the perfect size for those wanting to build a modest size boat for a handful of people on board. Their website features some videos of completed projects and the plans or kits for purchase.
Brooks Boat Designs Brooks Boat Designs has a handful of options to consider for your next sailboat building project. They are located in Brookline, Maine and give the option to buy the kits or have them build one from scratch for you. They have plenty of knowledge, so do not be shy to ask about modifications or custom features you are looking for. Depending on your specifics, they can attempt to accommodate some of their plans to help fit your desired outcome. By checking out their site, you can see many examples of their construction in progress and what the boats will look like when completed.
Chase Small Craft Chase Small Craft offers a simple process for building boats. Their kits are equipped with everything you need and will help save you time than just buying the materials outright and other parts you could need. This is arguably one of the best bang for buck instances if you want to save time and money searching for pieces to your boat. They are located in Saco, Maine and will ship everything to your home from there. All the necessary materials are included and all you need are the proper tools and working space.
Chesapeake Light Craft You can expect high-quality boat kits from Chesapeake Light Craft . They feature 18 different sailboat kits that vary from eight to 20 feet in length. This should be more than enough to find one for you if you are newer to boat building. They also have a wide variety of other kits in addition to the sailboat, in the event that you wanted to order a small kayak or paddleboard in addition to your sailboat. The prices vary considerably when considering a small or larger boat, so check the complete list of options to in order to potentially fit your needs.
Dudley Dix Yacht DesignDudley Dix Yacht Design has an extensive list of plywood and single skin sailing boat options. They have plenty of sail plans and kits to consider depending on your goals. These follow a classic look for sailboats, which are aesthetically pleasing. If you are wanting one to accommodate a small family, they have more than plenty to look through. The cost is not as bad compared to others, but keep in mind that you may need to throw in your own supplies or specific tools to get the job done.
Farrier Marine If you are in search of a multihull to build, then Farrier Marine is what you need. They offer a unique folding catamaran that is trailerable and give you the option to build it yourself. This not only makes it an appealing option, but anyone can take this multihull boat wherever they want with ease. It features a thorough construction guide once you receive all of the materials. These also come with stainless steel fasteners and an aluminum mast for high-quality materials. Pricing will vary since you must request which model type you are considering.
Glen-L Marine Designs Building a boat from Glen-L Marine Designs can save you time and money. They feature an easy system to order and receive the kits, as well as an in-depth guide to building them. This is an appealing option compared to most boat kit sellers. The beauty about Glen-L is that anyone can build these from scratch, so you do not have to be the best boat builder in the world to get it done. They offer guides and helpful insights from their team to point you in the right direction. Plans vary around $15, while kits can range well over $1,000 depending on boat size.
John Welsford Boat Designs John Welsford Boat Designs invites new and veteran boat builders that want a taste of quality small wooden boats. The boat plans are designed to meet your specifications and are catered to your desires. There are seven sailboat designs to choose from so you do not feel overwhelmed in the process. However, they do not sell kits all the time, so you would need to have the materials or be on the lookout for the best prices when they are available.
Iain OughtredThere are plenty of options on the wooden boat store, but you should narrow down your search for Iain Oughtred’s line of sailboat kits and plans. There are 25 different plans to choose from, which should accommodate most everyone looking to build their own boat. While they do offer some kits, they do not routinely offer sailboat kits. You would need to purchase all of the materials if you are considering one of their sail plans. Keep this in mind if you are considering, as you would need to hunt down the parts yourself.
Paul Gartside Boat Builder and DesignerGartside Boats is a boat builder company based in Long Island, New York that showcases a variety of boats from traditional and newer methods of boat building. Within that variety, they have boat plans meant for six to 50 feet in length. With an abundance of options, you will need to contact them regarding prices and any customizable options. Kits may vary as well, as they typically design in-house and build for you.
How Much Does it Cost to Build a Sailboat at Home?As you have likely already done so, the math between building your own boat and buying one may be a huge difference. Likewise, you may even enjoy the challenge of taking an older boat that is gutted and restoring with parts from a kit to build one new again. But how much does it cost exactly to build a boat from the comfort of your own garage or workshop? The prices are going to vary dramatically depending on your situation and material needed to get the job done. In addition, the time that it takes to complete this will also vary. Sail plans are rather inexpensive if you are aiming to build a small boat. These plans allow you to see the workings of the boat design and what you need to build the boat. Without these plans, you will not know the exact details of the design and it can cause major issues with the boat’s hull or other areas of the boat. Think of these as the backbone or instructions of the boat’s infancy before being built. Price Per Square FootYou should assume to pay anywhere between $300 to $600 per square foot if you are interested in building a boat. Buying a kit outright can be a good way to save time, but oftentimes these do not come with everything you need. Instead, you should try to source as much of the materials at the best price as possible. Thinking ahead is part of the process and you might be able to score a deal at a lumber yard or hardware store for parts. Boat Designs MatterThe design of the boat will be much different from one boat to the next, regardless if they are the same size in length. If you are pondering boats that range anywhere between 16 and 20 feet, you should factor in the shape of the hull, any rigging, and various appendages. Prices tend to increase when there are more complexities within the designs. If you are considering a kit with more details than others, you will also have to pay more for the designs on that as well. Kits Can DifferIt is important to understand that all kits are not going to be the same. As you gander at sailboat kits online to stitch together, you need to thoroughly look over to see if you have everything you need before buying. It would also be at your advantage to ask the seller if any additional parts or supplies are needed. This may change your dynamic on the kit buying process and you may pass up one for another if it has everything you need. An all-inclusive kit may cost several hundred, if not thousands, of dollars more to have the convenience of everything in the bundle. Construction ApproachesSome boat plans may require you to have certain tools to get the job done. This means special saws or planers, which the average person simply does not have. Purchasing specialty tools might be expensive upfront and hard to find depending on what it is. Your best bet would be to check locally for others trying to sell their tools or consider a boat plan that does not require extensive tools to finish the job. How Long Does it Take to Build a Sailboat?An easy to build sailboat could take a while to build from scratch. Many different variances come into play that are difficult to pinpoint for everyone. But how long is that exactly and how will your experience play into this? A fun project to sail in the wind could take you several months to well over a year depending on the boat plan and how big your boat is going to be. In addition, the materials all need to be accounted for prior to starting in the event a hardware store does not have them in stock. Time VariesThe time that passes for simple boat designs on small sailing vessels can be done in a few weeks. This is assuming you have everything you need and work non-stop around the clock. Certain complex situations may make the process long, such as the difficulty of working with some materials. If you are a skilled laborer, it may take you half the time compared to a novice. The amount of time it can take will vary on your availability and skill level. Planning ahead will undoubtedly offer the most time-saving features. It also helps if you can tackle parts of the project at your own pace. Complexity of DesignThe design of the boat may make the construction process longer. For example, it may take you longer to build a catamaran compared to a similar lengthed monohull. More complex designs might require more materials, therefore making the process a bit longer to complete. Furthermore, you will also need more experience working with difficult designs and that will affect you more as a newbie. Be sure to manage your expectations well and do not allow yourself to become too stressed over this fun project. If you can, seek expert boat building advice from a local builder or the company you purchased sail plans through. Quality MaterialsThe quality of the materials will matter significantly when building a boat and will greatly affect the time it takes to construct it. Handling fiberglass or carbon fiber might require specialty tools, while wood also demands a certain level of craftsmanship. If you are not skilled at working with the material at hand, it might affect the quality of the build and you may have to go back to fix mistakes. This will definitely add more time to your project, because mistakes are bound to happen with your first project. To save time, consider adding the tools and materials throughout the year or as often as your budget allows. You may want to try testing your skills on fiberglass or other materials to get a feel for how to work with it. Related Articles Daniel Wade I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing. by this author Best Sailboats Learn About Sailboats Most Recent Best Small Sailboat OrnamentsSeptember 12, 2023  Best Small Sailboats With Standing HeadroomDecember 28, 2023 Important Legal Info Lifeofsailing.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon. This site also participates in other affiliate programs and is compensated for referring traffic and business to these companies. 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Literally. Dream it up, and they can deliver it in every detail. Devlin Designing Boatbuilders2424 Gravelly Beach Loop NW Olympia, WA 98502 360-866-0164 Downloaded Plans Purchasers! Read this first. Tuffy – 25 Ft Devlin Black CrownFor sale at a great price. She’s an Alaskan veteran yet is small enough to trailer to adventures anywhere, Tuffy is a 25 foot Black Crown located here in Washington State.  Prize – Surf Scoter 26Prize is ready for your next cruise today! Checkout the many photos of this 26 foot Surf Scoter. 2023 brought her new power with a 200 HP Yamaha outboard and an 8 HP Yamaha kicker motor. She comes with a trailer and full electronics package.  Hideaway debuts at the Port Townsend Woodenboat Festival: Sept 6-8 2024!!Chelcie Liu discussed with Sam what boat he wanted next in his decades long boating passion. The result is the 22 foot Hideaway – a cruising home on the water with a front and back porch, solar panels covering the roof, and an electric outboard. See her in just a few weeks at the 2024 Port Townsend Wooden Boat Fesitval – Sept 6-8 !!!  All Downloadable Construction Plans – 25% Off -SALE ENDING SOON!All downloadable construction plans at a 25% discount. Sale ending soon!  Linach 15 Downloadable Construction Plans Updated, Expanded!Take Advantage of the current downloadable plans sale to get the newly expanded and updated Linach 15 plans. As of today those ordering the Linach 15 downloadable construction plans will receive the new version.  Banjo 20 & Small Boats Magazine for January 2024If you’re considering a 20 foot outboard cruiser for your next boat take a look at the Banjo 20 in this month’s online magazine Small Boats Monthly. The construction plans for the Banjo 20 just became available last October and still are being offered at an amazing savings on our introductory price. Click on the photo above for more information. Featured DesignCandlefish 16 The Candlefish 16 is a burdensome fishing skiff. Deep and seaworthy, it is wonderfully suited to life in our changeable weather and strong tides.Getting started, the polliwog is a great entry into wooden boat building with the polliwog, we offer the amateur builder the opportunity to build a lightweight and strong dinghy or tender., power cruisers.  Introduction: How to Build a Wood Sailboat I've been wanting to combine my two favorite hobbies - woodworking and sailing for a long time, so I thought I'd build a boat. It's got classic lines and looks so dazzling in the sunshine that people constantly stop me at the boat ramp to ask me about it. There's something unbelievably rewarding about building something like this from scratch. This is definitely a boat that is much better built than bought . Here's how I did it. The boat takes about 100 hours to build. I did it over 3 months, working a little bit just about every day and full days when my schedule permitted. It will take about $1,000 in total to build if you buy everything at full retail cost (not including tools you might need to buy), but you can spread that across the length of the project. For example, you only need to buy one $30 sheet of plywood at a time, take it home, draw out the parts (loft) that fit on just that sheet and cut them out. That will take a couple of hours right there. Some boating supply stores (chandleries) might let you setup an account which might give you a discount if you tell them you're building a boat. All of the skills needed to build a sailboat can be learned slowly, one step at a time. For example, if you've never fiber-glassed plywood before, just practice on a small piece first to get your confidence up. This was my first boat build, so I did a lot of learn as you go . Not only am I going to show you the right way to successfully build your own sailboat, but I'm going to share with you the mistakes I made along the way to hopefully save you from repeating them. The end result will be a very attractive little 8 foot long pram, that is easily made out of 4x8 sheets of plywood that is light enough to put in the back of a small pickup truck or roll down to the local lake on the optional dolly. Anything longer would require you to either make a scarf joint (which is a bit tricky) or buy longer sheets of plywood (which is considerably more expensive). What you will need: Boat building plans 8 panels of 1/4" oak plywood 4'x8' Pencil, Sharpie, ruler, tape measure, yard stick, etc. Long flexible straight edge Box of 1" brad nails 2 gallons of epoxy resin 1 gallon of epoxy hardener - SLOW 1 quart silica thickener 5 quarts wood flour thickener 1" masking tape Japanese pull-saw Table saw (helps, but optional) Round-over router bit Flush trim router bit Palm/random orbital sander 220 sanding discs Combination square Drill bit set Drill bit extension Basic hand tools Small diameter wire or zip ties Wire cutter 12 C-clamps - 3" Mixing cups, mixing sticks, rubber/nitrile gloves 16' x 60" of 6oz fiberglass cloth 2" plastic spreader Gallon of waterproof glue Glue roller Silicone bronze screws Stainless steel fasteners Small blocks Gudgeon & pintle - dinghy size Patience - large Elbow grease - large For more detailed explanations on each step and more specific info/reviews on the materials and parts used, check out my boat build blog: www.Midnight-Maker.com Step 1: Cutting Out the Parts... First, you'll need boat building plans. I purchased some very nice ones from a popular boat building website because I had a specific style in mind to build, a "pram". It's a Norwegian design with lots of buoyancy in the bow and building a pointy boat is a little more difficult. There are a bunch of free boat building plans (search "dinghy") online. Also, I wanted my boat parts to fit in a standard (read cheap) 4'x8' sheet of plywood. It also had to be light enough for me to load/unload/move myself. This boat weighs in at about 70 pounds. When on the custom dolly I built, it's very easy to move from the parking lot to the lake. Next, you'll need to draw out the parts of the boat full-sized onto the plywood (lofting). I actually did this step on hardboard/masonite because I wanted to make templates of all the parts in case I ever wanted to build another one. This step requires you to be very meticulous. Carefully transfer the measurements (offsets). They may or may not look correct because it's very non-intuitive to look at curved boat parts that are laying flat. Some parts actually bend the opposite way you think they should. To make the curves, I nailed a bunch of 1" brads into the panel and used a long, flexible straight edge (yard stick, etc.) bent to follow the curve, then I traced the curve with pencil/Sharpie. Once I removed the brads, I had perfectly smooth curves. Keep in mind that with the side panels that are symmetrical to both sides of the boat, only draw out one version and cut two stacked sheets at a time. This ensures the boat will not be lop-sided. Make sure to immobilize the two sheets together with screws outside of the boat parts or use double-sided tape/clamps, etc. to keep the parts registered properly. Using a Japanese pull-saw allows you to control the cuts very carefully and it can follow the graceful curves. They cut on the pull stroke which means they're very easy to control. Make sure you leave a bit of your cut line, meaning cut just outside the line. This allows you a bit of a safety margin and you can always sand to the line to sweeten it up. This is where the elbow grease really kicks in. It takes hours to cut out the hull panels by hand, but it's worth it. I tried cutting the first part out with the jigsaw and it wandered all over the place and quickly cut inside the line before I knew it. Also, a jig saw blade can lean to one side which could mean two panels might not be the exact same shape. Using hand tools is a classic way to do woodworking and is a very gratifying process. With hand tools, things happen slow enough for you to be in total control, whereas power tools can quickly do unexpected damage. With the understanding that you're building a classic boat, using hand tools wherever possible is part of the philosophy. The plans I bought were in metric and called for 6mm (1/4") and 9mm (3/8") plywood, but I wanted to make everything out of 1/4" plywood so the thicker parts in the plans were glued together with two layers of 1/4" (so at 1/2" they were a bit thicker than designed). I actually liked this because it made the boat feel sturdier and of course it was cheaper that way. The trade-off was that the boat would be a bit heavier. For any of the parts that need to be doubled-up/laminated (e.g. the transoms), now is a good time to do that. Make sure you use "waterproof" glue instead of "weatherproof" glue like I did... Spread a thin layer of glue over one of the "bad" sides (plywood usually has a good side and a bad side, glue bad sides together so good sides show on both outside faces), making sure it's completely covered (I used a special glue roller), then carefully place the other half on top. Align all of the edges together, then clamp them in place. Now put heavy things carefully on top to press the parts together. The glue should be dry in about 6 hours. NOTE: It's considerably easier and safer to do any woodworking processes to the parts before you assemble the boat. This way, you can safely clamp pieces to the work bench and cut out handle holes, etc. Since my boat is a "lapstrake" design, I had to route a rabbet (groove located on the edge) carefully on the bottom edge of each side panel. This creates a shoulder for the parts to sit on, positively locating them while you're stitching the panels together. Likewise, the grab handles in the transoms are much easier to cut out before putting the boat together. Also keep in mind that any mistake will be considerably more painful the further you are along in the build. For example, if I biff cutting out the grab handle holes while they're just loose pieces rather than when they're a permanent part of the boat, it's much easier to recover - just make another transom. If you had to patch a hole in the boat, it would be difficult and possibly never look perfect. No pressure... Step 2: Assembling the Hull... Once you have the bottom and sides cut out, you can start to "stitch and glue" the hull together. This is a technique used usually for smaller boats to be able to pull the hull form together without the need to build a frame or mold (which can take almost as long and as much wood as the boat itself). I built a gauge stick to make sure my holes were perfectly spaced at 4" at 1/2" in from the plywood edge. It was 1" wide so either edge was the required 1/2" from the centerline. I worked my way down one side of each of each mated seam and drilled all those holes at once while the panels could lay flat on the bench. Make sure to use a backer block to prevent tear out on the back side, even with such a small drill bit. With one mating panel drilled with a 1/16" drill bit, hold the mating panel in it's relative position. I used some spare twine to wrangle my panels into the proper orientation as I was marking them. Make a pencil mark where the mating hole should be, remove the pre-drilled panel and drill the second set of holes 1/2" in from the edge. This makes sure there's enough strength to hold the boat together. The first pass on the stitches is just to get the hull together structurally. You can always go back and make the stitches fancier/tighter and tweak the position of the panels. The stitches go from the inside out. Cut 6" lengths of wire and bend them into long, narrow U's that are the width of the distance between the holes. Stick the ends through the holes and carefully twist the tails together on the outside of the hull, making sure not to damage the plywood. If you're using zip ties, then the holes you drill will need to be bigger and you'll have to start on the outside, go in, turn around, then back out, then "zip". Make sure your panels' rabbet shoulders are resting securely on the mating panel and carefully tighten all the stitches. For my boat, once I had two panels stitched to the bottom panel on each side, it was time to attach the transoms (ends). Once all of the exterior parts are stitched together, you should have something that looks like a boat. It will be a little rickety at this stage, but that's okay. NOTE: In the photos I took of my build, you'll notice that the transom doublers (reinforcers) aren't in place. That was because I was following the instruction manual, but I think that was a mistake, so I highly recommend laminating (gluing) the doublers to the transoms before you stitch the boat together. Step 3: Reinforcing the Hull Joints... Now that the hull is stitched together, flip it over upside down. You'll be surprised at how stiff it is, considering how difficult it was to wrangle all those panels into position. Be careful, there's lots of poky wire ends sticking out all over the place. I used a technique called "tabbing", meaning I made small, structural tabs from thickened epoxy that fit between the stitches, then I removed the stitches and made one long, larger fillet to connect the hull panels together. Make sure your panels are perfectly aligned and tightened. I used a nipper to lop off most of the tails so they wouldn't get in the way, but that left very sharp spikes. Make sure your boat is square. Take diagonal measurements from corner to corner, make sure the boat parts are parallel to each other, etc. because if there's a twist in your boat, the next step will make it permanent, which will affect the boat's performance. Now mix up a batch of epoxy and silica thickener according to the manufacturer's directions (meaning each type of epoxy has a different resin to hardener ratio) until it's between the consistency of thick ketchup, but runnier than peanut butter (make sure to mix the 2 parts of epoxy together first very well before adding a thickener). Too thick and it won't fill the void, too thin and it'll run down inside the boat. Both are bad. I used a small syringe to inject the mix into the V intersection between the panels and checked underneath/inside to see if there were any runs. Once the epoxy has partially set, use a glove wet with denatured alcohol to smooth out the "tabs" so they fit inside the V groove and don't extend above the intersection between the panels. This will give you good practice for the seams that will show on the finished boat. Be careful of the wire spikes. Repeat this process for every seam on the hull. Let it cure overnight. Once the tabs have cured, carefully remove the stitches. If the wire seems to be epoxied permanently to the hull, heat the wire with a lighter. That will soften the epoxy enough to pull the wire out. Be careful not to scorch the boat (you don't want a Viking funeral). Now repeat the thickened epoxy process for each overlap, except this time each seam will need to be one long, smooth joint. Let it cure overnight. This goes a long way in making the boat hull structural. Step 4: Fiberglassing the Hull... Now that you've got a permanent hull shape, it's time to make it waterproof and rugged. Fiberglass and resin over plywood is a tried and true Do It Yourself boat building technique which makes it strong and light. Mask off the bottom panel and roll out your fiberglass cloth. Smooth the cloth out very carefully so as not to snag or tweak the fibers' orientation. Mix up an unthickened batch of epoxy (it will be the consistency of syrup). Starting at the stern, pour a small puddle of epoxy and spread it out nice and thin. You should be able to squeeze most of the epoxy out of the cloth, leaving only saturated cloth with no dry spots (which will appear white) but the weave should still be showing (meaning no extra epoxy is pooling). You should easily be able to see the wood grain through the cloth now. Let the epoxy partially cure and using a razor, slice the dry fiberglass cloth away on the taped seam. Then remove the masking tape. Let the epoxy cure overnight. Flip the hull over and mix up a batch of epoxy that is the consistency of peanut butter. I masked off the joint, but this step is optional, but keep in mind that it will be visible if you plan on finishing the interior bright (varnished wood). It's not as critical if you're painting the interior. With a plastic spreader, carefully make a large radius transition (fillet) between the bottom panel and the first side panel (garboard). Remove the masking tape when the epoxy mixture is partially cured and carefully scrape/wipe any unwanted mixture. It's much easier to remove now than having to sand it all off later. At this point, it's also a good time to fillet the transoms to the sides using 3/4" radius tabs between stitches and 1" finished fillets after you've removed the stitches. Let the fillets cure overnight. Now, repeat the entire fiberglassing process on the inside. Except instead of just doing the bottom panel, make sure both the bottom and the garboard are fiberglassed. This is basically the waterline of the boat. The fillet should allow the fiberglass cloth to smoothly make the bend between boards. Remove the excess cloth when partially cured and let sit overnight. Some people fiberglass up onto the transom at this stage which will make the boat stronger, but that means you have to have already filleted the transoms to the bottom. Step 5: Installing Interior Parts... The bulkheads get stitched in place just like the panels. They will make the already stiff (and much heavier boat) completely structurally sound and push/pull the sides into their final shape. Then make 3/4" "tab" fillets between the stitches to lock them in place, remove the stitches and make long, smooth 1" fillets. The smaller fillets will get covered by the larger fillets. I used two different modified plastic spreaders to do this step. Each spreader was cut with a box knife and filed/sanded into its final shape. While you're doing the previous steps, if you're in a time crunch, go ahead and build the daggerboard trunk. It's made of numerous parts that are pre-coated with a couple layers of unthickened epoxy, then glued together with silica-thickened epoxy. This makes it strong and waterproof as it will be below the waterline so must be completely waterproof. The daggerboard trunk is the most important part of the boat, especially if you're making a sailboat version (this boat can easily just be used as a rowboat). Not only does it support the center seat (thwart), but it has to transfer all of the force from the sail to the water and if you run the boat aground, it takes all the shock loading from the daggerboard. The daggerboard gets filleted into place like everything else. Make sure it's perfectly on the centerline of the boat as that will affect its sailing characteristics. Next, let's make the daggerboard slot in the center thwart. I set up a straight edge with a spiral upcutting router bit. Make sure to enlarge the slots at the end of the center thwart so that it can fit around the fillets of the center bulkhead. Now is the time to ease the edges of the center thwart because you'll be sitting on it a lot, so it needs to be comfortable. Because it's so thin, I only routed the top edge of the center thwart that shows and just hand sanded the edge underneath (it's very problematic to use a round-over bit on the second side of a thin board). Paint all of the thwarts with three coats of unthickened epoxy, especially the undersides. Once the woodworking is done, the thwart can be epoxied into place with peanut butter (or you can jump to cutting the daggerboard slot in the bottom of the hull). Make sure the thwart fits snugly in place. Drop dollops of peanut butter on the top edges of the center bulkhead and daggerboard case and spread it out evenly (make sure none gets inside the slot to interfere with the daggerboard). Firmly seat the thwart (pun intended) into the goop and weight it down. Let it cure overnight. While you've making sawdust, cut out the mast hole (partner) in the forward thwart by drilling holes in the four corners (for the square mast we're going to make), then cut out the sides, file it smooth, then round over the top edge with the router. Any time after the bulkhead thwart fillets have cured, you can seal the airtank chambers. Paint the bottom, sides, inside of the bulkhead and transom up to the level where the thwart will be. Step 6: Rail & Sailboat Parts... There are several processes in this boat building instructable that can be done concurrently. While you're waiting for the epoxy on one part to cure, you can be doing woodworking or epoxying another part. This step illustrates that point. While you're waiting for the epoxy on the rub rail (outwale) to cure, you can be fabricating the sailboat accessories (e.g. daggerboard, rudder, tiller, spars, etc.). In order for the outwale to be thick/strong enough to be effective, you'll need to laminate it in two strips on each side. You can't bend a single piece that thick around the curvature of the hull without either breaking the wood or softening it by steaming it which is a complicated process. Take a strip that's half the final thickness and a little longer than the boat edge (I made mine a bit beefier), mix up some peanut butter with the colloidal silica and carefully spread it on the inside of the strip. Starting at the stern, clamp it in place, perfectly align it with the top edge of the plywood. Now you have a long, springy lever to bend the wood strip along the compound curve. It dips both vertically (shear), and bows out at the widest part of the boat (beam), then back in toward the bow. At least every foot, clamp it as you go, moving forward. More is better. Toward the bow, the strip will get stiffer as it gets shorter. Once clamped in place, scrape/wipe off all the squeeze-out. It's much easier to remove now than after it hardens. Let it sit overnight. You'll have to repeat this three more times, meaning this step takes four days (if you're using "slow" epoxy hardener). During those four days that you're dealing with the outwale, you can make major progress on the sailboat parts. They're completely separate from the hull. If you're just making a rowboat, then you can skip making these parts. The daggerboard and rudder are cut out and laminated. Then a bevel is ground onto the leading and trailing edges to make it slice through the water more efficiently. Then they're covered in layers of epoxy. The mast step is assembled. This has to be very strong because all of the force of the sail is transmitted to the boat through the mast step and the mast is a very long lever arm. The rudder cheek plates and tiller also have to be assembled similarly to the daggerboard case. NOTE: Whenever there's a hole to be drilled into any part of the boat, you must take additional steps to make sure the water doesn't penetrate and damage the wood. The correct procedure is to drill an over-sized hole, completely fill that hole with epoxy (I usually put a piece of masking tape on the back side to act as a dam), then once the epoxy cures, re-drill in the center of the epoxy plug the correct hole size. That makes each hole in the boat possibly a 2 day process, so plan accordingly. You can also use 5 minute epoxy to knock out a bunch of holes quickly, but be careful, they're not kidding. This stuff gets rock hard very quickly and will permanently glue anything touching. This is exactly how you drill the hole for the pivot point for the rudder/cheek plate assembly. If the pin is 1/4", then drill 1/2" hole and fill that with epoxy. Now the 1/4" hole will fit nicely in the center and be completely waterproof. Since all the parts need several coats of unthickened epoxy and they just about all have holes in them, I hung them up with some twine and painted them on all sides, one layer at a time, for several days. Make sure the rudder doesn't get too thick to fit inside the cheek plates. Step 7: Making the Spars... More sailboat parts you can make while waiting for other parts to cure are the spars, the structural parts that support the sail. The mast is another glue up. I used 3 - 1x3's of hemlock. A relatively soft wood, but with a nice tight grain with no knots. A mast would break at a knot, regardless of how strong the wood is. Using the waterproof glue, align the pieces as perfectly as you can then clamp up the assembly and let dry overnight. Then run it through a table saw to get the final dimensions. Use a router and a round-over bit to ease the edges. Cut to length and sand the sharp corners. It should fit easily, but snugly into the forward thwart. The boom (bottom of sail) is a little more complicated. Cut out the gooseneck (boom pivot point) by using a hole saw first, making sure to clamp it securely to the workbench, then cut out the profile. This gets attached to another piece of 1x3 hemlock, after it's been cut to length and the edges have been rounded over. The yard (top of sail) is easy. Just cut to length and round over the edges. Drill and fill any holes in the spars at this time. You'll need at least one hole on each end to lash the sail grommets to. This time, everything gets covered with several coats of varnish, epoxy is not necessary. The varnish protects the wood from water and UV damage. The reason we had to make at least the mast at this point is because we'll need it in the next step to establish the location of the mast step. Step 8: Finishing Up the Interior & Exterior... Once the outwales are successfully attached, trim them flush with the face of the transom(s). While you're at it, use a flush cut saw (with no sawtooth offset to mar the wood) to trim the sides flush with the transom. This will show you how well your injected silica mix worked earlier. Now you're ready to install the mast step. The mast step must be precisely located on the floor (sole) of the boat to give the mast the proper angle (rake). This is very important because it directly affects the boat's ability to sail upwind. Using your mast, insert it into the forward thwart (partner) and into the mast step. With the mast at a 3° angle (mostly vertical but with a small, yet noticeable and graceful tilt toward the stern of the boat), trace the location of the mast step. Use a combination square to make sure it's perfectly aligned side to side (athwartship). You can now set the mast aside. Drill and fill holes in the bottom of the boat so that you can securely screw the mast step from the outside of the hull. The mast base must also be epoxied to the sole with peanut butter. After it's screwed into place but before the epoxy cures, make sure to test fit the mast again and verify the rake angle is correct. It would be a little messy at this point if you had to tweak it, but at least you wouldn't have to cut it off. Now comes the most unpleasant part of the whole build. On your hands and knees, make a 1" radius fillet on the underside of every part in the boat. I didn't worry about making these pretty, just structural and water tight (these create the flotation tanks that keep the boat from sinking if you capsize). Let that cure overnight. Next is the scariest part of the build, making the slot in the hull for the daggerboard. Using a drill bit extension, from the inside of the boat, reach down through the daggerboard case and drill a hole at each end of the slot through the bottom of the boat (make sure to use a backer board). Drill a couple holes in between, then take a jigsaw and connect the dots. This weakens the hull enough so that the router won't tear out any extra wood. Note, this step can easily be done prior to affixing the center thwart. Using a flush trim/laminate router bit, let the bearing run around the inside of the daggerboard case. This will make the hole in the hull perfectly match the slot. This is important because you don't want a shoulder on the inside for the daggerboard to hit and you don't want to damage the waterproof lining of the case. Last, ease the sharp edge of the daggerboard slot with the router and a small radius round-over bit. The skeg must be cut to fit the curve of the hull (rocker), then using silicone bronze screws, attach it to the hull using the same drill and fill/peanut butter techniques. Make sure to snap a chalk line on the centerline of the boat for reference. Then make a 1" fillet where it meets the hull which will support the skeg and make it strong. The skeg keeps the boat tracking straight in the water. I optionally used some fiberglass cloth to cover the skeg and overlap onto the bottom to make the entire assembly stronger and more waterproof. The skeg will take the brunt of the abuse when launching, beaching, loading and unloading, etc. I also installed a stainless steel rubstrake on the aft end of the skeg with this in mind. In wooden boat building, silicone bronze screws are often used because they won't corrode when encapsulated like stainless steel screws can. Install the skids parallel to the skeg. These are solid pieces of hardwood because they will also take a lot of abuse when the boat is sitting on shore, protecting the thin hull from rocks, etc. They get installed the same way as the skeg, although it's a little tough to bend the wood along the rocker. Scrape off the excess peanut butter once they're screwed in place. I also installed the optional outboard motor pad at this point because I plan to use an electric trolling motor on the back to quietly putter around the lake in the evenings to relax with the family after work. That should be the last parts that go into making the boat! Step 9: Finishing the Hull... Now comes the last dash to the finish line. One of the more tedious steps is that you now have to sand the entire boat. I actually built the entire boat inside, but for the sanding stage, I took her outside. Several hours of sanding all of the fillets nice and smooth. Everything will show in the finished product whether you paint the boat or leave it "bright" (unpainted). If you've been careful about cleaning up the peanut butter as you go, you should be able to sand the boat with mostly 220 grit. Be careful not to sand through the thin veneer of the plywood. After the sanding is done (make sure to use a dust mask), vacuum the entire boat and then wipe it down with a tack cloth to remove any dust. I also reversed the hose on the shop vac and used it to blow the sawdust off since I was outside. Next, you must coat the entire interior and exterior with 3-4 coats of unthickened epoxy. This makes the entire boat waterproof. It will also give you an idea of how beautiful the wood will look when varnished. This is why a lot of boat builders decide to leave their boats bright so the beauty of the wood shows through. Mix up 1 cup batches of unthickened epoxy and pour out large puddles onto the surface. Taking a foam roller, distribute the epoxy in a smooth coat. Now take a wide foam brush and gently smooth (tip) the rolled out surface. This should remove any lap marks or bubbles. Move along to the next area, making sure to not touch the wet parts. Also, make sure no dust or bugs get on your finish or it'll mean even more sanding later. Start with the exterior first. It'll be much easier to get good by practicing on the convex surfaces. The interior is more tricky because you want to prevent sags and pooling by only applying very thin coats. Make sure to check with the manufacturer's directions during this step in case you have to deal with "blushing", a thin layer that can sometimes form on the surface of epoxy when it cures. This could cause your layers to not stick to each other. If your epoxy does blush, it's easy to just wipe the entire boat down with a rag soaked in acetone after each coat has cured. Some people sand between coats of epoxy. This is how you would make an extremely smooth/shiny finish, so if you want your boat to be museum quality, invest the effort. I'm planning on banging my boat around so opted out of an extreme, fancy, mirror finish. I was originally going to paint the exterior of the hull, which would require priming and painting, but I'm leaving it bright for the time being. The good news is that you can always paint later if you change your mind, but if you paint it and change your mind, it's tough to go back. There aren't a lot of pics of this step, which took a couple of days because there wasn't much visible progress after that first coat went on. At this point, any surface that's not painted should be varnished using the same "roll and tip" method as the epoxy, with the optional sanding between coats. Note that epoxy has no UV resistance, so to keep your boat from getting sunburned, you must either paint or varnish every surface. Giving a boat a "museum quality" paint and/or varnish finish can literally take as long as building the boat. Step 10: Making the Sail... Another step you can do while other parts are curing is make the sail. This particular design uses a "lug" sail, a classic looking sail for small boats with wood masts. It increases the sail area (therefore the force generated by the wind) without it having to be as tall as a modern sailboat mast made of aluminum. There is a kit from an online sailmaking company that you can get for a reasonable price. The Dacron cloth panels are all cut out by a CNC machine, so they fit perfectly together. I used a regular, domestic sewing machine, not an industrial one. The only time I had trouble was when sewing through all 7 layers at the reinforcement patches. When I got to those parts, I had to manually push down on the foot of the sewing machine with a flat-bladed screwdriver (minus) to help push the needle through the Dacron. We jokingly call Philips head screwdrivers "plus". The panels/parts all come labeled. The directions were a bit confusing because they suggest you make sub-assemblies after the fact to make wrangling the large sail easier but they mention it after you've already sewn the large panels together. It's important to understand what parts go together while the panels are still small and more manageable. For example, the batten pockets are tricky enough to build on a single panel, much less the finished sail. Building the sail was about as difficult for me as building the boat, but it was worth it. The lug sail gets reinforcement patches on all four corners where you attach it to the spars (bend), and there's also a reefing point for when the wind starts to pick up (freshen). Modern sails have three corners (Marconi rig). I opted for the less expensive white Dacron sail kit, but there's also a classic red (tanbark) colored kit that's $100 more expensive. Before I sewed a single stitch, I carefully traced every part of the sail kit onto painter's tarp poly film so I can always use the templates to build another sail, all I need to do is buy the tanbark cloth. Step 11: Rigging Your Sailboat... This seems to be the trickiest part for most people, probably because there are numerous ways it can be successfully rigged, depending on your experience, preferences or criteria. It's confusing because you have to know what the finished setup will look like in your mind while you're staring at a pile of ropes. I chose a setup that allows the most room in the cockpit for a full-sized adult, so the mainsheet is led forward of the skipper's position. This keeps the skipper's attention forward so they're looking where they're going. I have another boat where the mainsheet is behind the skipper and it takes some practice getting used to. The lines I made up (rope becomes a line when you give it a job description) were the halyard (hauls the sail up), the mainsheet (adjusts the angle of the sail to the wind = trim) and a traveler bridle (where the mainsheet attaches to the boat). I got fancy and spliced all my ends, but you can just as well use a bowline knot. I installed a cheek block at the top of the mast instead of the large diameter hole in the directions. I wanted the halyard to run as smoothly as possible when setting the sail. Then I installed a pair of cleats at the base of the mast, one for the halyard and one for the downhaul (cunningham). With both of these lines pulling in opposite directions, it locks the sail in place, flat, so it effectivley acts like a wing. The main halyard attaches to the gaff with a snap onto a padeye. This allows easy on/easy off when rigging at the boat ramp. I also used a small loop (parrel) around the mast and through the eye to keep the gaff located close to the mast. I looped the downhaul over the boom and down to the cleat to try to keep the gooseneck from twisting. Note, except for the blocks, just about all of the hardware used on rigging a boat this size can come in stainless steel or brass/bronze, depending on the look you're going for. If you plan on installing oarlocks to row the boat, this decision becomes even more important to the final look of the boat. For the mainsheet, I made a short bridle between the handles on the transom with a small eye tied in the center. This allows a place for the snap on the end of the mainsheet to attach to. I could've just as easily allowed the snap to slide, which would give the bridle the function of a traveler, but would affect its pointing ability (sail upwind). The mainsheet is then run to a block on the end of the boom, then to another block in the middle of the boom. This leaves the main cockpit area unobstructed with running rigging. Make sure your mainsheet is long enough for your boom to swing forward of 90° to the boat, with enough to still come back to the cockpit for the skipper to control. A stop knot at the end of the mainsheet will keep the mainsheet from getting away from you and give you something to grip. The rudder pivot hardware (gudgeons and pintles) must be installed perfectly vertical and on the exact centerline of the boat so that she will sail well. Drill and fill the necessary holes for this hardware. Be careful with the spacing. It's designed to be easily installed and uninstalled while underway. With this particular rigging layout, when under sail, the skipper must constantly keep the mainsheet in hand, which is a good idea anyway for safety reasons (if you get hit by a gust of wind = puff, you won't get blown over = capsize). The tension on the mainsheet is easily manageable for any size skipper. On larger boats, the mainsheet is held by a fiddle block with a cam cleat, which is not necessary for a boat this size. With that being said, a possible future upgrade would be to install a block and a camcleat somewhere on the centerline of the boat so that more advanced sailors wouldn't need to constantly have to oppose the tension on the mainsheet. Of course the trade-off would be the hardware would probably be somewhere you might want to sit. Another upgrade I figured out after actually taking her sailing would be to rig up a bungee/shock cord system that will hold the daggerboard both in an up and down position. With the current setup, the centerboard is held down by gravity and must be pulled out of the slot when beaching. Step 12: Go SAILING! Because I wanted to be able to go sailing by myself if needed, I made a dolly out of 2x4's and large pneumatic tires (which makes the dolly float). The dolly fits securely between the center and aft thwarts when driving out to the lake. The sides on the dolly lock against the skids on the bottom of the boat so it can't twist. Roll the sail up with the spars and wrap it with the main halyard. At the designed length, the mast doesn't fit inside the boat, but it seems a bit long, so some people have cut the mast down enough so that it fits inside the boat. Out at the lake, unload the boat, slide the dolly underneath and you're ready to roll down to the ramp. At the launch, roll the boat out into the water until it floats off the dolly, toss the dolly off to the side out of everybody else's way. Drop the daggerboard into the slot and install the rudder assembly. Facing into the wind (important), stick the mast into the receiver hole (partner), tie off the downhaul (cunningham) and hoist the sail until the downhaul is tight, then cleat off the main halyard. Reave the mainsheet (run the line through the blocks) and you're ready to go sailing. I've found that this boat sails very well. The lug sail makes it very easy to sail upwind (weather helm), it's a little more tender for a large adult, more so than a boat with a hard chine, like an El Toro/Optimist but it's a lot more graceful looking. The payload is very reasonable for a boat this size. My wife and son can easily (and safely) go sailing with me and I don't even need anyone's help to get it rigged and launched. All in all, this is one of the best projects I've every built. I hope you too can discover the joy of building your own boat and then take her sailing. Remember, in sailing, the wind is free, but nothing else is... This is my very first Instructable after many years of referencing this excellent site to build numerous cool projects (you should see my next post). Anyway, I hope you enjoy it and please feel free to ask any questions you may have and I'll do my best to answer them. I'm planning on building a larger boat in the near future so stay tuned... 
 Your shopping cart is empty! Sailboat Plans 30-40ft Bruce Roberts sailboat designsBoat plans 30 - 40 ft . This section of Bruce Roberts sailboat designs and boat plans cover the following vessels in the range of 30 to 40 foot. The Roberts, Classic, Henry Morgan, Offshore, Power Cat, PCF 36/40, and Canoe Stern designs. Boat building plans using steel, aluminium, fiberglass wood/epoxy, dependant on the design, are available. Information and prices are on each individual design page. Study Plan Packages contain all the sheets #1 from the actual plans. Sail Plans and the various accommodation layouts pertaining to the design are shown on these sheets. There may be anywhere from two to eight #1 sheets which are all to scale and which measure between one meter and two and a half meters long each. They are intended as a more in-depth overview of the design in which you are interested. Material Lists for the basic materials required to build the hull, deck and superstructure are included in the study plan package to help you with your budgeting. Where Fibreglass is mentioned as a material this means Balsa sandwich / Foam sandwich, Single skin or C-Flex. Most steel plans can be adapted to aluminium construction. Both moulded ply and strip plank can be used in conjunction with the wood epoxy saturation method. Sail and rig details are also shown on the study plan sets. As the Study Plan Packages include the basic measurements in scale for the accommodation layouts, you can customize the layouts to suit your needs if what is presented is not exactly to your liking. The link to download the Study Plan Packages is emailed to your email address and generally within 24 hours, The link to the Full Plan Sets is also generally emailed within 24. All study plans and full plan sets are downloadable in .pdf format for you to have printed at a nearby print shop. The study and full plan sets are available on CD's on request with postage cost depends on country. To View drawings , photos, information and prices of the design that interests you just click on that design. Payments: We only accept payments through PayPal. This method of payment protects both of us. Please be aware that there is no obligation or need to be a member of PayPal to use them to pay us using the normal various methods of payment.  Pram Dinghy Boat PlanRoberts Pram Dinghy This Pram dinghy can be built in fiberglass or plywood. The pictures sho..  Classic 31 Boat PlanRoberts Classic 31 This is an earlier design that some traditionalists may find appealing. It may..  Roberts 310 Boat PlanRoberts 310 This design may be built with either a regular trunk cabin or a pilot house. It is al..  Henry Morgan 32 Boat PlanRoberts Henry Morgan 32 This is an earlier design that traditionalists may find appealing. It is ..  Roberts 34 Boat PlanRoberts 34 This is an earlier design that still enjoys a great amount of popularity. It has been ..  Canoe Stern 341 Boat PlanRoberts Canoe Stern 341 Designed by Graham Shannon this is for those of you that are looking for ..  Roberts 345 Boat PlanRoberts 345 Originally this was designed for lightweight frameless multi-chine steel construction..  Roberts 35 Boat PlanRoberts 35 This is a classic modern design that has been built as a production boat in many parts..  PCF 36-40 (Pacific Coast Fisherman) Boat PlanRoberts PCF 36-40 (Pacific Coast Fisherman) This design may be built as a motor sailer for family..  Roberts 36 Boat PlanRoberts 36 This design is a well proven world cruiser as many are currently sailing in different ..  Roberts 370 Boat PlanRoberts 370 Such has been the response to this design that plans for it's construction are availa..  Offshore 38 Boat PlanRoberts Offshore 38 Full plans for this design are available for building in round bilge Fibergla..  Power Catamaran 39 Boat PlanRoberts Power Catamaran 39 These catamarans were designed to be built using the fibreglass panel ..  Roberts 39 Boat PlanRoberts 39 This design is available only in multi-chine hull form, sloop or, with the addition of..  Roberts 392 Boat PlanRoberts 392 This design is a companion to the Roberts 39 which until now had only been available ..  Roberts 40 Boat PlanRoberts 40 This design comes with either a centre cockpit or a pilot house layout. There is adequ..  Driftboat Wood Kit Boatbuilders FORUMBoat plans, patterns and supplies for the amateur boat builder. Every year, thousands of amateurs much like yourself build their own boats the proven Glen-L way. Many builders save 50% or more over the price of a factory-built boat. It’s easier than you might think, and it can be a rewarding experience. Industry experts Established in 1953 300+ Models International shipping Plans & Patterns All plans come with a 30-Day money back guarantee. Providing boat Plans & memories Since 1953For more than 60 years Glen-L has been the world’s premier supplier of boat plans and patterns designed for the amatuer builder. We make it even simpler by offering associated supplies and hardware kits for each design.  More Products Boatbuilding hardware Books, DVDs, & Audio Tools & Raptor® Fastenings Epoxy and SuppliesFeatured designs.  View Plan Details  Cabin Skiff 
 IDEA 19 originates in 2005 as a modification of Dudley Dix’s TLC 19, a small GRP trailerable sailboat; at the end of the work the only things left from the original project were hull lines, every other aspect of the project was refined, boosted up, and modernized and the plans were converted to a modern wood-plywood and epoxy building system.
Our first and best selled plan suited for homebuilders. IDEA 19 originates in 2005 as a modification of Dudley Dix’s TLC 19, a small GRP trailerable sailboat; at the end of the work the only things left from the original project were hull lines, every other aspect of the project was refined, boosted up, and modernized and the plans were converted to a modern wood-plywood and epoxy building system. IDEA19 is a 6m fast paced trailerable sailboat; she can be built by homebuilders in both GRP and wood-plywood & epoxy resin, with strip planking system for hull, and plywood “stitch and glue” system for cockpit, deck and cabin; plans are suited for homebuilders ranging from absolute beginners to intermediate; hull is a good balance between a quite full bow, sleek amidship lines and a flat and large transom; the boats have achieved a huge amount of miles sailed, both cruising and racing, in all conditions, including several nasty squalls; performance are very sparkly, and the cockpit is surprisingly dry and sound for a small sailboat, with fair and predictable reactions; she has proved to be a tough competitor in club racing (GPH approx. 740 for ORC club rating). IDEA 19 plans grew in these years as a “family“ of sailboats: you can build her in a long cabin version or in a shorter one, with a really huge cockpit, both in sandwich GRP or in wood & epoxy resin, with retractable or fixed keel, with plywood chined or solid wood round cabin; plans are highly detailed, including all aspects of building and rigging the boat. The boats launched have sailed thousand miles in these years, in a wide range of environments, from lakes to the open sea, and in a wide range of activities, from family cruising to club racing ; they took beatings in harsh sea conditions up to 30 knots of wind, clocked speed in excess 18 knots planing downind; the boat proved to be a study, forgiving, fun and fast pocket rocket , a very good choice given her overall dimensions. A lot of building pictures and whole building sequences are on the web, which is something that can mark the difference and speed up the boat building process.  Plans are available both in Italian and English. Plans are available in imperial units upon request.   Boat Plans, Patterns and Supplies For the Amateur Boat Builder!
Boat Plans Catalog – 300 Boats You Can Build!“Building boats from Glen-L plans is simple and straight forward…I honestly have never run into a problem, unless it was of my own making. Follow Glen-L’s plans and you can’t go wrong.” Dr. Norman Cove, Bahamas “Boat building is one of the few pursuits where utilization of the end product is as rewarding as its construction.” Marc Bourassa, Wilmington, MA (built the Power Skiff and 2 Kidyaks) With Glen-L proven plans & kits, building your own boat can be a reality. Choose one of the categories below, click on a boat for the listing of items available plus more info and photos. Simple as that… get started today!If you know the boat design name, use our Alphabetical Design Index Design Characteristics – Boat drawing with all parts listed. Order a Hard-copy of the Catalog Click here for more information about our plans and kits.
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Westhaven 32. $ 285.00 - $ 300.00 (USD) Build your own sail boat yatch from 9 feet to 63 feet in length. Fully featured wooden boat plans for home construction in Plywood, Steel and Fibre Glass.
Give me a call at 207 930 9873, or send me an e-mail at [email protected]. I'm Arch Davis - I learned boatbuilding and design in New Zealand in the 1970s. I have been helping people to build beautiful wooden boats since 1988. You can see a few of them by clicking on Picture Gallery. My approach to design is to put into your hands the ...
Plans & Kits. If you're in the market for a boat to build, this directory of Boat Plans & Kits is a fine place to start. And if your company sells plans or kits, we invite you to list your offerings here. There is no charge for listing, but the featured boats must be built of wood. To refine your search of this directory, use quotation marks.
Chase Small Craft produces precut, DIY wooden boat kits for people worldwide who want to build their own sailboat kit, rowboat or motorboat We provide a manual and plans, precut, CNC plywood boat kits and all the precut timber parts selected for boat kit. We include all the hardware and epoxy to make truly complete boat building kits for the ...
affiliate links Cabin Cruiser, Free Sailboat Plans Petrel You can build this 16ft boat as a day sailer or an overnighter with cabin. Petrel is a Free Sailboat Plan that fulfils the greatest possible variety of uses in one model, offering the builder either an open-cockpit racing craft with comfortable accommodation for day sailing or a snug cabin model with accommodation for overnight trips to ...
Learn More - Buy Plans / Jig. The C-25 is a North Carolina sport fishing boat in a trailerable center console layout. With Carolina flared bow, broken shear and tumblehome she is an iconic design. 28′ LOA (25'2″ hull) 8′6″ beam. 16″ - 18″ draft. 350hp single or twin 200hp max. Cruise 30-35mph.
The benefits of using wooden boat plans and blueprints extend beyond just a successful build. You have the freedom to create a boat that aligns with your unique preferences, whether you seek simplicity or complexity, small or large, rowboat or sailboat. The customization possibilities are as boundless as the open water.
Buy Canoe Plan - $75. Light and lovely to paddle. Simple Plywood Boat Plan. Light on the land, Prettiest Plywood or wooden Canoes anywhere. 15.5ft. Excellent distance touring boats. 15'6″, simple construction for a wooden canoe. 32 - 45lbs (15 to 20kg) Click here for a comparison between our paddling canoe plans.
Idea 21 small sailboat plan is the latest development of my family of small plywood & epoxy sailboats plans for homebuilders: it was quite a time since I was thinking of an evolution of her smaller 19 footer sister, so I finally take the decision to publish this new plan. The goals of this plan is simple: add interior volume, simplify the work for homebuilders switching to a complete plywood ...
Petrel 33 is the logical evolution of her smaller sister Petrel 28 , with the task to expand the horizons of cruising activity for a 4-6 person crew, raising the bar of onboard comfort, keeping the boat size under the critical (for a homebuilder) size of 34 foot - 10 meters of overall length. A "new classic" looking cruiser, sturdy, with ...
Sailboats that you can build from home will likely be a small boat under 20 feet. These could be from many different boat suppliers such as B&B Yachts, Brooks Boat Designs, and Chase Small Craft. Boat plans will vary based on your budget and how much time you have on your hands. Based on my previous experience, building your own boat will take ...
Devlin's Boat Building Manual, 2023 revised edition, is a comprehensive how-to book on the Stitch-and-Glue technique. The first edition from 1996 sold more than 70,00 copies worldwide. Sam, along with many thousands of backyard boatbuilders who have built fine boats from his plans, are firmly convinced that the the Stitch-and-Glue method is ...
Step 1: Cutting Out the Parts... First, you'll need boat building plans. I purchased some very nice ones from a popular boat building website because I had a specific style in mind to build, a "pram". It's a Norwegian design with lots of buoyancy in the bow and building a pointy boat is a little more difficult.
Hull in plywood, solid wooden elements and epoxy, with the radius chine system. Fixed ballasted keel for a high stability and a average saiplan suited for all the weather conditions. Huge and super comfortable interiors for a 8,20 m boat. Modern Wooden Boat plans, produces wood boat building plans for modern, sporty looking and reliable crafts.
Phone Tel: (716) 634-9481. Clark Craft offers hundreds of boat plans, design patterns, and a full line of boat building supplies and accessories for the amateur boatbuilder.
If you want to build a boat, we have what you need. Chesapeake Light Craft is your source for boat kits, kayak kits, boat plans, and boatbuilding materials. Our original, award-winning boat designs include kayaks, canoes, rowing boats, dinghies, and sailboats. More than 40,000 CLC boats have been built from kits and plans. Our designs are built ...
Boat plans 30 - 40 ft. This section of Bruce Roberts sailboat designs and boat plans cover the following vessels in the range of 30 to 40 foot. The Roberts, Classic, Henry Morgan, Offshore, Power Cat, PCF 36/40, and Canoe Stern designs. Boat building plans using steel, aluminium, fiberglass wood/epoxy, dependant on the design, are available.
Boat Plans, Patterns and Supplies For the Amateur Boat Builder! Every year, thousands of amateurs much like yourself build their own boats the proven Glen-L way. Many builders save 50% or more over the price of a factory-built boat. It's easier than you might think, and it can be a rewarding experience.
Our first and best selled plan suited for homebuilders. IDEA 19 originates in 2005 as a modification of Dudley Dix's TLC 19, a small GRP trailerable sailboat; at the end of the work the only things left from the original project were hull lines, every other aspect of the project was refined, boosted up, and modernized and the plans were converted to a modern wood-plywood and epoxy building ...
Home. Classic wooden boat plans is a collection of established wooden boat designs ranging from the early 1900's to about 1970. Some of our own designs are Banshee, Custom Barrelback 19 and the Deep V inspired by the Donzi Sweet 16, Bantam. Other plans include Chris Craft, Hacker, Gar Wood, Riva, Switzer, barrel back, Baby Bootlegger, Flyer ...
Dr. Norman Cove, Bahamas. "Boat building is one of the few pursuits where utilization of the end product is as rewarding as its construction.". Marc Bourassa, Wilmington, MA (built the Power Skiff and 2 Kidyaks) With Glen-L proven plans & kits, building your own boat can be a reality. Choose one of the categories below, click on a boat for ...
Cutwater 12.5 Classic Wooden Paddleboard Plans PDF. $65.00. Build yourself a timeless Cutwater 12.5 stand up paddle board from our easy to follow instant downloadable plans. (Click HERE for printed plans) Board info... Length - 12.5 feet / 381cm Width - 29 inches / 73.6cm Weight - 29.8...
Boat plans. Hartley Boats has the widest range of boat plans for sail boats, power boats, catamarans and trimarans, dinghys and small craft, canoes and kayaks, surfboards and surf skis, vintage power boats, self steering capabilities and trailers. Established in 1938, more than 100,000 boats have now been built by enthusiasts from our plans.