Boat: Pearson 365 Sloop and 9' Fatty Knees. | wear. Without spray application Strontium Chromate is difficult to get coverage without lumps even with two coats. If all you have is a roller or yard rules make spraying too hard, Barrier Coat is a good alternative. | 30-12-2020, 00:16 | | Boat: Mason 44 | from to Port Townsend, in the spring of 2017. The mast was showing some and loosing in several spots. So on the of a well know PT Rigger, I scraped and sanded those areas, wiped it down with Denatured Alcohol, painted the bare spots with zinc chromate, sanded that lightly and recoated any bare spots again with zinc chromate and applied a quality one part based white (two coats). 3-years later she looks good, at any distance, you can not tell where I painted and where I did not. But standing on the boat looking up the mast "I" can see a slight difference in the sheen on the mast up to the first spreader. But beyond the first spreader, I really can not see any difference, she's a double spreader rig with the mast at 65 feet. So I would recommend this process if you're only looking at a little / or some paint loss and . Ken | | | 04-01-2021, 08:51 | | | that wasn't painted. A quick search for "Selden anodized mast" only turned up and small keelboat masts. But I agree that mast length anodizing must still exist in some countries. | 04-01-2021, 09:02 | | | etc. It even makes your hands grey. And rebed all that properly. I like Lanolin on SS/aluminum interfaces. But often all the paint wont come off leaving you a spotted dog.. (stripper maybe for the last bit?) If you repaint, leave the bottom 6-8 ft bare and you will have far less bubbling paint issues etc. I had the mast rebuilt by pros in on my 47 footer. Stripped, sanded, acid washed, Chromate primer, etc etc . "The whole full meal deal." The problem with this is some masts/boats are pretty "active". They will bubble the coating from the inside. Within 3 years the bottom 6 feet had plenty of paint issues. There was a lot of SS hardware down there and some winches on the mast. That was a wasted $10k +/- - Elmore Leonard | | | 04-01-2021, 11:49 | | Boat: Razzle Dazzle - 61ft Simpson / Crowther Daggerboard Cat 93 | etc. It even makes your hands grey. And rebed all that hardware properly. I like Lanolin on SS/aluminum interfaces. But often all the paint wont come off leaving you a spotted dog.. (stripper maybe for the last bit?) If you repaint, leave the bottom 6-8 ft bare and you will have far less bubbling paint issues etc. I had the mast rebuilt by pros in on my 47 footer. Stripped, sanded, acid washed, Chromate primer, etc etc . "The whole full meal deal." The problem with this is some masts/boats are pretty "active". They will bubble the coating from the inside. Within 3 years the bottom 6 feet had plenty of paint issues. There was a lot of SS hardware down there and some winches on the mast. That was a wasted $10k +/- | 04-01-2021, 14:35 | | Boat: Valaint 40 | I removed all mast and boom fittings I could sanded any areas that had bubbled up or paint about 40 different places. This is what I did . Sand corroded areas to bake metal tapering the edges,wipe with alcohol then immediately spray area with rust-oleum metal primer. Dry and recoat then follow up with white glossy rust-oleum after removing taped off areas allowing some over spray to hide the taping lines. Three coats of this . Cost ten bucks . Seven yrs later you can't see any issues other than normal wear/ fading. Good luck ,my two sense | | | 04-01-2021, 18:05 | | | anyway, so it's time for mast to come off and a) leave raw aluminium? b) Clear coat? c) Passivate some other way? d) Re-paint? Whats the consensus? I figure the paint will just corrode under again, though maybe not take so long this time. Thanks Paul | 09-04-2024, 11:04 | | Boat: 1990 Catalina 36 Mk "1.5" | that I couldn't find after diligently searching CruiersForum. I've been unclear how to sand a 50' aluminum (not anodized) mast and get the primer on quickly enough to avoid the problems cause by aluminum oxide. This post addresses this and a couple of other issues. Primekote; & Perfection, but I think most of this post would apply to any two-part system I had a call yesterday with Interlux about these issues, intending to apply their system: Interprotect-2000E; Epoxy Primekote; & Perfection, a Interlux's recomended solvents. It's well-known that, quickly after exposing bare aluminum, aluminum oxide forms. It's notorious for later causing adhersion failure. That is, the paint/epoxy/LP only sticks temporarily, perhaps two or three years, and I want a result that will last much longer! My 50' mast, with a lot of peeling paint, and signs of corrosion especially near stainless fittings, is in the boatyard on top of rolling sawhorse-type platforms with carpet on top. From what I've read, the alloy of this mast is likely to be 6061 T6. BTW I looked into and rejected Alodine, Alumnaprep, Bonderite, etc., deciding that those products are too ruthless on our dear planet, which I hope will be thriving enough for our grandkids. Those products need too much rinsing for me to contain their harsh chemicals in any practical way. Anyway, I called Interlux ((800) 468-7589). They are available 9:00am-4:00pm Central time in the . (Thye might have told me 8:00am.) Here's my understanding of what Interlux told me, combined with my comments. If there's an error here, it's likely my understanding or writing, rather that what Interlux told me. I was told that many people apply Interprotect to aluminum hulls. The fellow I spoke with left me feeling confident that he was competent and gave information that I could rely on. My overarching take away was that the job will not be as difficult as I feared, but that I need to watch the relative humidity and dewpoint to avoid the risk of salty dew falling on the coatings. If I were not located where salty dew falls, such as in Wisconsin, I could sand to bare aluminum and do the first primer coating of Interprotect 4 days later. But that's not an option for me. As I'm right next to the ocean (and dew often starts to fall before sunset), I should My take away is that, as a general , . Last night, I found where .) Also, I'm guessing that it's better not to wait 4 days if one can. And I'm not sure about dew that has little , but I'd guess that's to be avoided as well. Interlux agreed that I should wait 3 hours before applying a new coat of Interprotect over a previous coat. I'm in Southern . If you're in a cooler climate, you may need more than 3 hours between Interprotect coats. Once a coat of Interprotect has dried for 24 hours, I can freely roll the mast over onto that layer (on the carpet covered sawhorses). As to hard-to-remove paint inside the built-in sailtrack (part of the extrusion), I was told not to worry if the previous paint is in decent shape if it is two-part paint. (The first owner of the boat installed the main sail on an external for easier single-handing that he did twice; to . So, the track has had little use.) The problem is that Luckily the old paint on the mast is two part. The boom, which will be easier to bring to bare aluminum, is one-part. When I asked about filling holes that I won't be using with West system epoxy/resin, I was told that would work well. I read this morning that . To do this, I intend to turn the mast so that any hole that I am filling is facing downward and tape slippery plastic (HDPE?) over the filling, so that the epoxy doesn't run too much into the mast, where it might interfere with running wires or moving rigging. And, after it cures, might be somewhat fair. I was told that, as long as I don't slop on the coatings as I go, I don't need to worry about needing to re-tap threaded holes. . | | | 11-10-2024, 08:03 | | Boat: Alden schooner 43 feet, design 586 | | | | Thread Tools | | Rate This Thread | : | Posting Rules | post new threads post replies post attachments edit your posts is are code is are are are | Similar Threads | Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post | | Birdie | Our Community | 1 | 09-07-2017 04:01 | | stevensuf | Construction, Maintenance & Refit | 8 | 14-01-2015 11:23 | | HG02 | Deck hardware: Rigging, Sails & Hoisting | 3 | 27-08-2014 12:26 | | Weyalan | Construction, Maintenance & Refit | 4 | 09-10-2013 18:28 | | VirtualVagabond | Construction, Maintenance & Refit | 19 | 02-03-2013 21:37 | Privacy Guaranteed - your email is never shared with anyone, opt out any time. - Forums New posts Unanswered threads Register Top Posts Email
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Repainting A Mast + Boom- Thread starter Ducati
- Start date May 6, 2011
- Forums for All Owners
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Our black anodized/painted mast and boom is really starting to look bad with plenty of scratches and scrapes. I'm already thinking of how to deal with making it look new again. I can repaint it next season or maybe having it soda blasted down to the bare metal. Aside from leaving it alone any suggestion? Thanks Powder coating My bowsprit couldn't hold a paint job, with all the nicks and dings. I recommend powder coating for aesthetics and durabiity. <LI class="g w0" style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 8px"> Gallery - Peninsula Powder Coating, Inc. Gallery. Click on an image below to view a larger picture... Copyright ... www. peninsulapowdercoating .com/gallery.php - Cached - Similar Tim R. said: I had a painted mast that needed repainting. If you decide to paint, here is the article I wrote on painting my mast using Interlux Perfection. http://treilley.myphotoalbum.com/view_album.php?set_albumName=album36 Click to expand CalebD said: Tim, Nice photo gallery and wonderful job on your spars. It seemed as though some of your text was chopped off though. It could just be my browser (firefox). Click to expand Thanks Joe. Tim did a thorough write up of this project so it is nice to be able to read the complete text. How does one read the article in DIY-Boat? Seems to require a subscription.. Ok, I'm sure some will point out the error of my ways..but I'm a rookie at this boat restoring hobby and I don't have much cash to throw in that direction. But for less than $10.00 and some elbow grease I painted my mast and spreaders with Rustoleum Professional enamel. Went from a scratched, faded, old mast to a lovely gloss black finish. Masked off all the fittings (didn't have to remove them) and sprayed on two coats. Dries fairly quick and looks great. No cracking or peeling from moving the mast around that I can see. We'll see how long it lasts...but it can't look much worse than it did. Ended up looking so good I painted the rudder housing as well. My boat is quite a bit smaller so maybe it's not feasible for you but on my little Starwind 223 it looks pretty decent. I'll try to figure out how to get some pics on here. Old Skool NeilBack in the 70's black anodized spars were the trend. I bought a used Catalina 22 with a pretty severely oxidized mast and almost no budget to do anything about it. I did the Rustoleum spray can job in flat black as Slade mentioned and followed it up with 3 coats of Johnson's liquid floor wax. The floor wax brought the paint to a satin luster and the finish was durable as all get out, held up well for years. Scott T-BirdPainted with Interlux Perfection .... I was able to do ours indoors as a winter project. Getting SS screws and bolts free was the biggest headache and I left a few fittings attached and painted around them (such as the gooseneck and the vang saddle which were riveted with SS rivets). PB Blaster did not help for me in this instance. My first step was to sand all the black paint off with a random orbit sander, which was a pretty painless step. I etched with the Interlux Prime Wash and then used the 2-part primer and Perfection and did it in Snow White. I simply applied with a high quality brush and did 3 coats of the Perfection. The finish looked great when all done and still looks great after at least 5 years now. I've had some scuffing of the finish where the shackle for the main halyard attaches to the head because I don't remove it when covering the sail. The prime has held up well so I think I can repair with finish when I get A Round Tuit. I like the high gloss finish. I'm not a perfectionist so this DIY was fairly easy for me and came out great in my view. It was very important to use a good respirator when mixing and using those products, BTW. Slade said: Ok, I'm sure some will point out the error of my ways..but I'm a rookie at this boat restoring hobby and I don't have much cash to throw in that direction. But for less than $10.00 and some elbow grease I painted my mast and spreaders with Rustoleum Professional enamel. Went from a scratched, faded, old mast to a lovely gloss black finish. Masked off all the fittings (didn't have to remove them) and sprayed on two coats. Dries fairly quick and looks great. No cracking or peeling from moving the mast around that I can see. We'll see how long it lasts...but it can't look much worse than it did. Ended up looking so good I painted the rudder housing as well. My boat is quite a bit smaller so maybe it's not feasible for you but on my little Starwind 223 it looks pretty decent. I'll try to figure out how to get some pics on here. Click to expand AttachmentsThere are some recent posts on this topic in the yachtpaint.com boat maintenance forum. They recommend specific products but the general information is also good. Apparently whether the substrate is bare metal or old paint matters. If you don't go back to bare metal the aggressive two-part paint solvents will not allow you to reliably apply two-part paint over one-part paint. Lay a rag soaked in two-part solvent over the old paint for 24 hours and you'll know. The PO apparently didn't do that so our mast paint was cracking and peeling badly. Good luck because, as someone else said, it's a big job. I started at the top so my learning curve mistakes were 30' away. My regular old mistakes I can still see..... OK, so I have studied Tim's project, very nicely done. And I have read many other posts. But what about those of us with serious time constraints? Is it possible to feather and prime the bare spots and then paint over the existing paint? In the past I have touched up my old Kenyon booms(2) by sanding, priming, then spraying just the bare spots. There is a Rustoleum off-white that is not quite a match but looks better than bare aluminum. But I think this time around I want a color match on all the spars. Especially since the mast is now horizontal for the first time since 2000. Ed Schenck said: OK, so I have studied Tim's project, very nicely done. And I have read many other posts. But what about those of us with serious time constraints? Is it possible to feather and prime the bare spots and then paint over the existing paint? In the past I have touched up my old Kenyon booms(2) by sanding, priming, then spraying just the bare spots. There is a Rustoleum off-white that is not quite a match but looks better than bare aluminum. But I think this time around I want a color match on all the spars. Especially since the mast is now horizontal for the first time since 2000. Click to expand - This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. 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Painting an old alum. mast We repainted our alum. mast but used a different approach as suggested by a rigger. He suggested we wet sand the mast, wash it off, treat it with alum. prepainting solution and paint it with Krylon clear enamel.
Re-painting? Has the mast been painted before? If not, make sure you use an etching primer on the aluminum or the paint will not stick properly. If you plan on raising and lowering your mast a lot for trailering, I would consider a two-part paint which will give a much tougher finish which would be more scratch resistant. Why the need to paint ...
I used automotive paint to touch up the mast after purchasing the boat. Applied it with the Preval sprayer. Paint was Nason 2k urathane, 3 parts, paint, reducer and catalyst. Not too happy with the Preval, kinda splattered a lot. ... Start painting at the mast head and work your way down. Birds will bear witness to your lousy painting technique ...
The paint looks nice, but is a pain. Our last boat (I made the rig) and didn't paint it. Had that boat ~15 yrs. and never regretted not painting it. It was easy to clean w/white vinegar (if needed). Current boat is painted and is needing attention. Repainted the mizzen boom years ago and still looks good, but if it didn't have paint already ...
Nope. All I did was the mast on my old Grampian 26. Even with it on saw horses, it's a pain in the but. Have to get the old paint off, or whatever's on there. Then treat with the stuff that allows paint to stick. Then use the mil-spec primer, followed a few coats of epoxy paint. It's been a while, so I may have missed a step somewhere here ...
I repainted my 1988 C30's mast and boom two years ago. The old paint was chalking badly so I sanded it all off to bare aluminum. According to Interlux, the key to painting aluminum is to get it primed within 1 hour of sanding. I use InterProtect 2000e for primer and then top coated with Perfection.
I still have about a half gallon of gloss white easypoxy around from a previous boat project so I'm inclined to just use that unless you guys have a better suggestion. 23-09-2015, 20:31 #2: StuM. Registered User . ... recommend me a mast paint. Quote: Originally Posted by frozenhawaiian. whoops, forgot to mention that, they're both aluminum.
And FWIW, painting a mast even with it down and stripped is a difficult task unless you are a good spray painter. I know when I did it (brushing) getting runs and sags near the many holes and welded bits was all too common. ... When we put a new spar on our previous boat in 1996, the sparmaker suggested Tectyl and we used it successfully. He ...
If it was my 16' boat, I'd either do the mast right or not do it. I say that because it's aluminum, and painting aluminum is more difficult to paint properly as compared to wood, steel, or fiberglass. Paint doesn't like to stick to it unless the surface has been properly prepared. That means, as others have suggested, properly abrading it.
== Short answer: Sailboat mast == A sailboat mast is a vertical pole or spar that supports the sails of a sailboat. It provides structural stability and allows for adjustment of the sail position to effectively harness wind power. ... Prior to painting, ensure that the mast is thoroughly cleaned and all rust or peeling paint is removed. Use a ...
Learn how to inspect, maintain and repair aluminum masts, the most common spar material for sailboats. Find out how to prevent oxidation, galvanic corrosion and other problems that affect the strength and performance of your mast.
Learn how to spot and repair corrosion and paint failure on your aluminum mast. Find out how to prevent galvanic interaction, use the right primers and top coats, and match the color of your mast.
The boat yard at that time had a rate of $65/hr and I winced at their estimate. Fortunately for me they were extremely busy and their mast paint shed was stuffed with stuff so they suggested that I do all the prep work which I did. They ended up just spraying the mast with Sterling (similar to Awlgrip) and it only cost a few hundred dollars.
The masts were previously painted but could use a repaint, no pealing as of yet on the masts but the paint is still looking shabby and the masts are going to be off the boat anyway. Save Share Reply Quote Like. svjobeth. 262 posts · Joined 2008 Add to quote; Only show this user #9 ...
If your mast just needs a good cleaning and polish, then a non-abrasive cleaner/wax will work fine. Our most comprehensive report on cleaner-polishes was Metal Cleaners (PS June 2006 online), in which we tested 16 different products. Wed opt for one of the liquid cleaner-waxes like Collinite No. 850 Metal Wax, a non-abrasive cleaner-wax is in the same family as Collinite No. 885 Marine.
When we painted our (clear) anodized mast we sanded to bare metal, mild acid wash and primed and painted with Awlgrip, a pricey 2 part polyurethane paint. It worked out very well, but as mentioned is not cheap and develops dangerous fumes requiring special protective equipment for those mixing as well as the sprayer.
Use a 2-part paint and at the end of the day, I think brush-tip method will be fine. I actually sprayed mine with a 2-part but think brush-tip would have resulted the much the same. You don't need that much of a glimmer on a mast verses doing a hull for example. Paint the mast, boom and spreaders and it will make the boat look sharp. Good luck ...
If you ask me, it's the same with sailing. As kids, our little catamaran was a sailboat, sure, but it was also a 6-foot-wide swim platform, a party-pad, a place to paint your toes and endlessly chat. Back then, wasting time on the boat with family and friends was magic, just as important as sailing, and it still feels much the same now.
I moved a boat from San Diego to Port Townsend, in the spring of 2017. The mast was showing some corrosion and loosing paint in several spots. So on the advice of a well know PT Boat Rigger, I scraped and sanded those areas, wiped it down with Denatured Alcohol, painted the bare spots with zinc chromate, sanded that lightly and recoated any bare spots again with zinc chromate and applied a ...
This boat, 1986 Catalina 30, has sat in the yard for 2 years and I am working on the mast and rigging while the bottom is being painted. I am as restless as a long tailed cat in a room full of rocking chairs to get it in the water but the condition of the rigging precludes any sailing until it is fixed. ... Painting mast Scott Scott, If you don ...
Apparently whether the substrate is bare metal or old paint matters. If you don't go back to bare metal the aggressive two-part paint solvents will not allow you to reliably apply two-part paint over one-part paint. Lay a rag soaked in two-part solvent over the old paint for 24 hours and you'll know.