sailboat light on dash

Navigation Lights for Sailboats (And How To Read Them)

Last Updated by

Capt Chris German

June 15, 2022

Navigation lights on a sailboat can be confusing. If you understand the reason behind why they are the way they are however, they can make a lot more sense.

At their heart, sailboats are really just a power boat and as such must adhere to all power boat rules such as navigation lights. Other times however, a sailboat is classified in a special category. They have a set of additional lights they CAN show as an option, but are not always required to do so.

That’s about as clear as mud if you ask me and I contend that that is where the confusion about lighting a sailboat begins.

Just because you can show a light to identify yourself in times of low visibility, does not mean you have to and then we add in a little sibling rivalry between power and sail and things get downright adversarial when it comes to navigation and the night.

Table of contents

The USCG says You’re a Power Boat Whether You Like It or Not

Much to the consternation of many a sailor who has earned a commercial license to drive their sailboat, when you received your credential from the USCG it says you are a master of steam and power across the top with no mention of wind as a source of propulsion.

It is not until you read the back pages of your little red book that feels like a passport and looks like a US Sailing credential, that you will see the term “sail auxiliary”. That is because most of the time the U.S. Coast Guard knows that you are primarily reliant on your mechanical power to propel your vessel.

It's a sad thing, but the days of commercially viable sail boats are done and all but the most select few even have sails let alone use them as their primary power source. All sail boats by law are powerboats, but not all powerboats are sailboats.

Navigation Lights for a Power Boat

As a power boat, you are required to show certain lights and have been required to do so before power was even invented. 

In the days of man powered vessels like the viking ships who relied on oars while in close quarters to power their vessels, they needed to show other boats, friend or foe, where they were by showing lanterns in the dark to identify themselves. As you know, it is a time honored rule among all the nations of the world both past and present, that you must avoid a collision at all costs while at sea and even the viking knew that you should not run into things.

By lighting the front and back of your boat, you could warn other boats of your presence as well as identify which way you were heading. As such there is a very specific rule in the Code of Federal Regulations Number 46 (CFR46 by common name) that spells out with detail how many, the color, the luminosity or brightness, the angle of visibility and the location of all of the lights required for navigation on every single boat, seaplane, submarine and other nondescript vessel conceived by man to date that they must show while underway in reduced visibility.

And there is no flexibility in the rules.

As such a power boat, and by extension all sailboats, MUST, without question show one green light on the starboard bow and one red light on the port bow and one all around white light or lights while operating in reduced visibility. These lights should shine at all 360 degrees of visibility with the bow lights shining at an angle of dead ahead to 22.5 degrees abaft the beam and the stern lights shining 225 degrees dead aft. A forward facing masthead light that is white in color shall shine forward to comply with the directive that all vessels must carry an all around white light. For more read here .

As you can see, there isn’t much wiggle room when it comes to lights that must be shown.

Sailboats get a little flexibility with lights

Sailboats however, are a little different when they are in fact sailboats, which is only when you are entirely reliant on the wind for power and in no way reliant on any mechanical or manual means of propulsion. And for good reason.

Back in the day when men were men and sailboats were wooden, fire was a major concern. Sails were coated with wax and other flammable substances and the wood on boats was saturated with oils and grease. Even the ropes were plant materials saturated with oils to keep them pliable and strong.

Add those highly flammable substances to a parching environment like the sea and you had what was essentially a giant floating tinderbox.

Then tell that giant floating tinderbox that they need to identify themselves to the world at large at night using oil lamps with flames because batteries and lights were not invented yet. It didn't take very long or very many ships burning to the water line for the Governments to say to the sailboats, you get to do things a little different.

As such, sailboats are given special dispensation when it comes to lights aloft. They don't have to show an all around white light in their rigging because no one wanted to set their rig on fire with oil lamps 60 feet up in their rig.

However, when a sailboat takes their sails down such as when they are powered or at anchor, they must resume the display of an all around white light or lights aloft. That became a real challenge with aluminum masts and the disappearance of rat lines on the shrouds because there was no easy way to climb the rig and check the bulbs up the mast on a regular basis. 

Red over Green Sailing Machine

I have no idea where the history of this particular light comes from, but if you ever take a deck exam with the USCG, you better remember this mnemonic. An all around red light over an all around green may be displayed on a vessel during times of reduced visibility to indicate that a vessel is operating under sail power alone. 

I won’t even speculate on how or why they came up with this particular light configuration, but if you want to use these lights as a sailing vessel, you can do so, but that means that you will need three all round lights at the top of your mast, an all around white, an all around red and an all around green, just in that order.

The red over green is to be displayed in addition to the running lights or the red and green bow lights with the 225 degree stern light. As always, when the motor comes on, so does the steaming light or the forward facing white light that is also usually about ¾ of the way up on your mast to complete the requirement of an all around white light that indicates a power vessel.

What is a “steaming light” and why are you mentioning it now?

Most sailboat electrical panels will have a switch that is labelled “steaming light” and it will only come on when your anchor light is off. This is probably the most confusing part of sailboat navigation lights so if you are confused about this, you're in good company as most people are. 

A “steaming” light is named thusly, going back to the days of steam powered sailboats where when they fired up their boilers and doused the sails, they became a power boat once again. There aren’t too many steam powered boats, let alone steam powered sailboats, but the name stuck and it is a vestige of a bygone era.

Either way, when you fire up your motor, you turn on your “steaming light” and that locks out the all around white light which is used for anchoring to minimize the number of switches on your panel and reduce the number of wires in your mast. The fewer wires, the less chance of something not working or becoming disconnected.

The steaming light and the anchor light both go up the mast, but you can’t use an all around white light while using the 225 degree stern light at the deck level because to other boaters you would look like you have two white lights from the stern and that would be confusing.

The anchor light is used exclusively for anchoring while the steaming light is used to indicate you are a power vessel while underway.

As to why I am mentioning it now in the article, is because this would have blown your mind if I started with this subject cause it can be really confusing stuff.

Aspect Recognition with Lights

Remember when I said earlier that lights can help you tell others which way you are heading as well as tell you which way other boats are heading? That is called the aspect of the vessel and the USCG tests you on this for your deck exam as well. 

Knowing that the bow lights go 22.5 degrees abaft the beam on both sides or 112.5 degrees on each side, and the stern light faces 225 degrees aft for a total of 360 degrees of visibility, you can tell a lot about where a boat is heading and who has the right of way.

One thing that's easy to remember is red means stop and if you see a vessel's red light, it means stop as you are the give way vessel and approaching the other vessel from his port side. Conversely it works with green as well as that means you are approaching from the other vessel's starboard side and you are the standon vessel.

If you see a red and green light equally low on the horizon, that means your heading dead on into another vessel's path and conversely if all you see is a white light low on the horizon, it means you are overtaking another vessel power or sail, we don’t care because it is an overtaking situation. However, any time you do see a white light aloft in addition to the red and green bow lights, you know you are encountering a power boat.

Then there are angular approaches as well, where you see white and red or white and green light low on the horizon. You know in that case you are seeing a portion of the bow lights and stern lights from the side approaches of a vessel. Based on which direction those lights are heading, you can deduce which way that boat is going in relation to your boat.

So put it all together and you see a green light and a white light low on the horizon with a red over green light aloft, you know that you are approaching a sailboat that is traveling to your port and that might make you the standon vessel. That is of course, if we didn’t concern ourselves with windward and leeward and port tacks and starboard tacks, but that is a discussion for another article. So stay tuned when we talk about sailing rules and the right of way. But for now, do good, have fun and sail far.

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Capt Chris German is a life long sailor and licensed captain who has taught thousands to sail over the last 20 years. In 2007, he founded a US Sailing-based community sailing school in Bridgeport, CT for inner city youth and families. When Hurricane Sandy forced him to abandon those efforts, he moved to North Carolina where he set out to share this love for broadcasting and sailing with a growing web-based television audience through The Charted Life Television Network.

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Boat Navigation Lights Rules: Illustrated Beginners Guide

When navigating at night, the lights on other boats are your first clue about the moving dangers around you. And your navigation lights are your first line of safety in avoiding collisions in the dark, and they tell others vessels what you are and what you are doing. The rules sound complex, but with a little understanding you can get the basics for any situation.

So what are the basic navigation light rules? For most small vessels, motoring requires red and green (port and starboard) lights, and a white light visible in all directions around the boat. This is almost always a stern light and a masthead light on sailboats. Boats under sail require port and starboard lights, and a white stern light. Sailboats below sixty-five feet may show a tricolor light at the masthead instead of side and stern lights when sailing.

That's it, in a nutshell. There's a little more to it, as the rules change with different sizes and there are some specifics about angles of display for the colors. Identifying other ships at sea requires more study, but the basics are the same. And it's not much trouble to make sure you've always got the proper lights on your vessel.

On this page:

What are the official colregs rules for your sailboat, what about the uscg (united states coast guard) rules, lighting at anchor, identifying the boats around you.

The International Regulations for the Prevention of Collision at Sea , abbreviated "COLREGS" is very specific about the lights required, their shapes and sizes, and the distance they must be visible. For the smaller boat, the following definitions apply.

• Masthead Light - a white light placed centerline on the boat showing an arc of 225 degrees with 112.5 degrees either side of the front of the vessel.
• Sidelights - A red light on the port side and a green light on the starboard. They must show an arc of 112.5 degrees from centerline of the bow.
• Stern light - A white light on the stern of the boat showing an unbroken arc of 135 degrees from centerline of the vessel.
• All-round light - A light showing in an unbroken arc of 360 degrees.

The good news is you need not measure these angles. Any properly installed USCG or COLREGS approved light which will cover the correct arcs. If you have to replace the original light from your boat, make sure it's with an approved replacement.

Lights When Sailing

The specific rules for a sailboat under sail are in COLREGS Rule 25 and vary slightly with the size of the boat. A sailboat powering is considered a power boat and falls under in Rule 23.

• Under 23 feet (7 meters) - side lights and a stern light, possible. If these lights can not be displayed a light must be kept at hand to help avoid a collision. This can be a bright flashlight.
• Over 23 feet - Side lights visible to one nautical mile and stern light visible for two.
• Vessels under 65 feet may combine both sidelights into a single lantern on the bow.
• May show a tricolor light on the masthead instead of sidelights and a stern light. It's one or the other though, do not show these lights at the same time .
• Masthead light must be visible for three nautical miles, all other lights must have a two nautical mile visibility.
• Side lights must be separated.
• May not show a masthead tricolor light.
• Masthead light must have five nautical mile visibility, all other lights must be visible for two nautical miles.
• Optional masthead lights - any vessel under sail may display a red light over a green light at the masthead with sidelights and stern light. The red over green may NOT be displayed with a masthead tricolor light. It's one set or the other.

Lights When Motoring

For all navigational purposes a sailboat under power is considered a power boat. This includes motor sailing - if the engine is on and providing propulsion you are on a power boat, even if the sails are up . This applies to navigation lighting, sound signals in fog and limited visibility, and rights of way.

Sailboats under 50 meters under power need to show:

• A masthead light
• Stern light

A power-driven vessel under 23 feet (7 meters) that does not exceed seven knots of speed may display an all around white light, though sidelights should be used if available.

The USCG has published its own "Rules of the Road" that are based on the COLREGS. In addition, it has rules for the "Inland Waterways" for rivers, inland lakes and the Great Lakes.

The good news is this has no impact on what you have to do with your own boat.

They mostly relate to lighting changes on towed vessels like barges and tugs. For example, a vessel towing or pushing another vessel in the ocean under COLREGS shows two masthead lights, sidelights and a stern light, whereas in Inland Waterways the towing or pushing vessel displays two yellow towing lights instead of a white stern light.

If you sail on lakes, rivers or the Great Lakes where towed commercial traffic is common you should learn the inland lights, but coastal or ocean sailors will never see these.

When you anchor outside a designated mooring field, you should display an all around white light at the masthead or as high in the boat as practical.

If your boat is large and has a very tall mast, you may wish to display another light closer to the waterline. Boats approaching in the dark may not see a light on a mast sixty or seventy feet in the air when they are close to your boat.

We use a simple garden path light on our stern when we anchor, left in a rod holder or flag socket. It comes on automatically at dusk and is a cheap and easy way to be more visible. There is no specific rule stating you can not display more lights than required, or the nature of any lights beyond the required all around light.

The COLREGS also specify that a round black "daymark" should be displayed in the rigging of any vessel at anchor. Very few small vessels observe this, however it is the correct display for a vessel in an anchorage.

If you tie to a mooring in a marked mooring area you are not required to display anchor lights, but there is no harm in doing so.

The other important reason to know your lights is to figure out what's going on around you at night. The water may be ablaze with white, red, green and other lights at night and they are your first key to avoiding collisions and problems.

All combinations of lights for fishing boats, commercial vessels, and so on are outside this post‘s scope. The odds are small you will encounter a submarine, seaplane or hovercraft at night, but there are regulations regarding specific lighting for each of those vessels!

There are a few fundamentals to help you figure out what that is you see on the horizon, which way it is going, and whether it is a danger to you.

Port Wine is Red

The fundamental rule is that red sidelights will ALWAYS be on the port side of a vessel, and green lights will always be on starboard. However, some vessels can use all around red and green lights for other purposes, though those will be higher than sidelights.

The light‘s on a ship is not important, some large tankers and freighters will have their sidelights far aft and put them on the superstructure for better visibility. It is not safe to assume that sidelights you can see are on the bow of large vessels .

When you can see the color, you know which way the bow is pointing. If it's red, it's pointing more or less to the left and will travel in that direction. A green light shows it is heading more or less to your right.

If you can see the red and green lights at the same time, you are looking directly at the bow of the vessel. When you are far away, this isn‘t as alarming as if you are close crossing. Seeing red and green lights together on a vessel is something you never want to see for long.

Be aware of red and green lights used in combination with other red, green and white lights. These may not be running lights and could have other significance.

Tankers, Freighters and Large Ships

Tankers, freighters and large ships will have side lights, a stern light and a masthead light. In addition, on vessels over 50 meters there will be a second masthead light further aft and higher than the forward light. The masthead light positions are a better tipoff to the bow direction and how far from the bow the sidelights might be. Remember - on a large vessel the sidelights may not be at the bow or even close to it.

USCG Inland Rules allow for a second all-around white light on large vessels on the Great Lakes instead of a second masthead light.

Fishing Boats

Fishing boats engaged in fishing will have more complex light displays. When they aren't fishing, they will show lights like any power vessel, but Rule 26 spells out light combinations that vary by the fishing activity being done. In general:

• Boats which are Trawling but not making headway will display a green all-around light over a white all-around light , and a masthead light aft of these lights. Boats making headway while trawling will show these lights, plus sidelights and a stern light.
• A vessel fishing other than trawling will show a red all-around light over a white all-around light . When making way they will also show sidelights and a stern light.
• If a vessel has gear more than 150 meters away from the boat, it will show a second all around light in the direction of the gear. The best rule is to give fishing boats as wide a berth as you can at night. They're easy to pick out if you check the top light configurations but their course may be difficult to predict.

Towing and Pushing

Towed vessels can be the most dangerous to cross, but they have the most lights to tell you what is happening. Refer to COLREGS or the USCG Rules of the Road Rule 24 for all combinations You can pick a tow/push vessel out with the following lights:

• Two or three masthead lights in a vertical line. Three masthead lights shows a tow over 200 meters. Additional masthead lights may show for larger tow vessels.
• A towing light (yellow light with the same characteristics as a stern light) directly above the stern light.
• The will also have side lights and a stern light.
• The towed vessel will show sidelights and a stern light. Lighting may vary under USCG inland rules, where towing lights may replace stern lights. Learn these differences if this is your regular cruising ground. If you think there is a tow ahead of you, always go well behind the aft most set of lights. Never go between a tow and avoid crossing ahead if possible as it may restrict their maneuverability.

Special Situations

There are several rare situations you may encounter. As a general rule, if there are a lot of lights and you don't understand them look for the sidelights on a moving vessel. If you can find them and figure out the direction it is moving, it makes the vessel easier to avoid. Stay well clear of lights you do not understand if you can avoid them without risk.

Most of these signals are used by larger, commercial vessels and you will not need them.

They use these light combinations with other light combinations. For example a towing vessel may also be restricted in maneuverability, and a vessel constrained by draft will show running lights if moving.

• Not Under Command - two all around red lights in a single line
• Restricted in Ability to Maneuver - red, white then red in a single line
• Constrained by draft - three all around red lights

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Drivers are just realizing what ‘blue sailboat’ icon means in winter – it may not be safe to drive yet when you see it

• Kristen Brown
• Published : 12:11 ET, Oct 28 2023
• Updated : 12:11 ET, Oct 28 2023

AUTOMOTIVE experts have warned drivers of the true meaning behind the 'little blue sailboat' dash light.

As winter slowly creeps up and temperatures go down, it's important to know that certain temperature-related lights mean, and how to respond to them.

A car review channel on TikTok called Basic A*s Car Reviews (@ basicasscarreviews ) uploaded a humor laden video telling drivers that the 'little blue sailboat' is warning drivers their car is too cold.

"Listen up psychos," she said.

"You don't just hop in the car and drive off, you have to wait until the car warms up, especially in the winter. That's what this little blue sail boat is for."

She zooms in on her dashboard, which showed the bright blue thermometer light floating in liquid, which some have nicknamed the "little blue sail boat."

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"Once the car is heated and the blue sail boat is gone, then you can go," she said.

According to The Auto Doc , that light simply indicates that the temperature of the vehicle's coolant is below the recommended temperature.

"In fact, the temperature is so low that it is possible for your radiator to get too cold, thus resulting in your engine freezing up and not being able to start," the site reads.

However, as long as a vehicle's coolant is changed upon manufacturer suggested intervals and there are no leaks, coolant will never freeze, but it can become more viscous.

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"But for this light to come on right at startup is normal. If anything, it's simply telling you that you just need to let your engine warm up a bit... The light will go away within a minute or two."

Though the warm up topic is wildly debated in the automotive industry, with some experts like The Auto Doc saying warming up an engine for a minute or two is a must, while others say modern tech renders the practice unnecessary.

J.D. Power states that warming up a vehicle for more than 20 to 30 seconds can be considered wasteful, especially with modern cars.

"Before the mid-90s, most vehicles used a carburetor, a mechanism that blends air and fuel for internal combustion engines in a suitable air-to-fuel ratio," the site reads.

"But during the late-80s and 90s, American car manufacturers began switching to fuel-injected engines."

With modern tech being so refined, idling for longer is an unnecessary waste of fuel and yields no real benefits for the engine.

"Warming up is a great way to maintain engine health . You allow it to lubricate itself and, in turn, prolong its life cycle. However, modern vehicles no longer have carburetors, and lubrication takes 20-30 seconds," the site says.

"So, there is no real need to sit idle much beyond the time it takes to defog the windshield."

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"Maintenance Required" message & "Wrench" light on dash

• Thread starter briancayko
• Start date Sep 1, 2018

Active Member

• Sep 1, 2018

Hey all, last time out I got the "Maintenance Required" alert (goes across message center every time i start it up) and the dash light came on for the "amber colored Wrench" see picture. From what I understand this takes place when you are near routine maintenance checks. Seems like this happened around 96hours on my boat. I ran it the rest of the evening for about 2 hours and it ran perfectly. I do all my own maintenance and I am up to date but is there any way to get that message to reset? or is CanDoo the only way?  

Attachments

• Sep 8, 2018

Additionally, when changing the oil today for winterization the screen is reading “Port- Maintenance Required” & when i ran it up to 4K rpms for the oil change on the port engine the display read “Limp Home Mode”. I don’t remember it doing that last year on the oil change but I am wondering if it is related? It was running perfectly 2 weeks ago when i last had it in the water. No codes are showing up in the message center when I scroll through either. Any feedback on this or the above issue would be appreciated.  

• May 9, 2019

Update: took to dealership and paid $20 for them to pull codes & reset maintenance code & light. All clear now & ready to go.  

• Jun 24, 2019
• Sep 12, 2019

lol thats what im expecting .i need to be able to clear maintenance codes out myself . dealer is far away and they never do what i ask and always tell me a story. i was to pick up new ski on may1 they said earlier is better for us i said okay ill do you a favor pick it up a month early April 2 . after a 3 week advance notice they didnt install my link brakets so i didnt get around to having the extra fuel tank that i wanted . they didnt install my electric bildge pump,i didn't want the hand gaurds installed which they did and the factory cover dont fit well with them on and i told them i dont want to buy the hand guards if cover dont fit or dont fit well , you almost need a shoe horn to get cover on an off, the seems on new cover almost rip because the handle extend out and inch extra on each side, and the spare factory hardware was include that they keep so i had to order new shorther bolts after shipping $20, no big deal bur when you ask for some thing not to be done just for the reason i know that would go wrong and tey do it anyway well lol . i already bought registration number kit that i wanted because of color so what they installed there crapy numbers and its not free pof course and very crooked which is extra lol. there a few other things. i forget but i basically got as expected the opposite at all cost i try to adviod dealership maintenance not totally because of $$ and a very long trip x 2 . but i never get what i ask for and ihave to walk out like im happy because if some major problem does go wrong they will put the whammy on me even harder . im in the process of figuring what 50 hr maintenance is required and how to erase the maintenance code. ill probably buy the can do computer or whatever the name is . but i looked at the owners manual and the maintenance items seem to be very incomplete. as to a good maintenance schedule im sure im not looking at it or in the wright place yet . if there a link someone can give me ill print it out etc etc ?????????????????????????????????? it is a great skii lots of fun.2018 gti 130 se ive hit 55 but most the time 54 i had some sand go thru pump so i lost 1 mph now 54 is top. but im not going to take pump out this season with 41 hrs on it. ill do a few minor upgrades probably .i read the gti 155 is same motor except the mapping . sounds like an easy 25 hp. 41 hrs isnt much i hope it keeps running as good as it has so far.  

Mine came on at the 100hr mark and again this year at the 115hr mark. both times the dealer pulled codes and reset the light having no faults. The service manual did not mention anything about 115hrs so I am not sure what the schedule is for these reminder lights. I am fortunate to have a SeaDoo dealer in town and they charged me $25 total to do both engines.  

• Sep 14, 2019

Maintenance code was on my display the entire summer and it ran flawlessly. I'll have them reset it during winterization in a few weeks.  

• Sep 17, 2019

thanks for some feedback , iguess the wrench is a basic reminder to get you worried to bring into dealer $$ to do some kind of maintenance as long as no limp mode . and if we get engine light then thats certainly an issue. any maintenance anyone find thats critical that isnt really spoken about ? example****** i found that when i pulled my heavy seat off i found a huge clump of salt hanging of the seat(like a small bees nest ) and the whole back of the motor is coated in salt spray. it cant be found on the hose . i ran ski on trailer and only in reverse the elbow fittings i believe for the bildge pumps sprays a fine stream of water all over inside the engine compartment beatiful . so at least everytime in brake or reverse the engine is getting a fresh blast of salt all over the place . so ill have to figure out a way to keep the salt bath off the metal parts in compartment. nice design lol i wish they had a nipple on the fitting and a small hose routing salt water outside the compartment. nice design if you like sea salt this issue is about my 2018 gti 130  

thanks for feedback  

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Proper Nav Lights Keep You Safe

• By Steve D' Antonio
• Updated: December 7, 2011

Running Lights

There’s one sure way to avoid being run down when sailing at night: Be seen. Make yourself visible by putting your running lights in good working order, and ensure that they comply with U.S. Coast Guard regulations. If you’re involved in a collision and your navigation lights aren’t compliant, you may be found at fault.

The most common problems involve how and where the lights are mounted. Take a careful look at each fixture; depending on the size of your vessel and its configuration of sail and power, your boat may have as many as six navigation lights: port, starboard, stern, masthead tricolor, steaming, and anchor. Make sure that no light is obstructed in any way. The usual suspects include davit-hung tenders and other stern-mounted gear as well as mast-mounted radar domes. In some cases, I’ve seen the transom itself block a portion of a stern light’s required arc of visibility.

Additionally, be sure that your side lights are mounted on surfaces that are vertical and parallel with the boat’s centerline. Side lights that are mounted on bow rails and are parallel with the rail rather than the centerline can have the effect of overlapping their red and green arcs when viewed from angles other than dead ahead, making it seem to others who are forward of you as if you’re heading directly for them when, in fact, you may not be.

Stern and masthead lights should be vertical and mounted perpendicular to the vessel’s centerline.

Side lights must be installed above the sheer line. Even if this weren’t a regulation, I’d strongly recommend replacing ones embedded in the hull; they’re less visible, particularly when the boat’s heeled, and are exposed to spray and a greater chance of immersion.

Tricolor lights can only be used when under sail. Under power, conventional deck-level lights and a steaming light must be used. At no time can both deck and tricolor lights shine simultaneously. In order to avoid this nav-light faux pas, consider installing a two-position switch (supplied by a nav-light circuit breaker) that activates either the steaming or sailing configuration.

When selecting, inspecting, and replacing navigation lights, be sure that they carry a U.S. Coast Guard approval label. Select fixtures that are appropriate for your vessel’s length, and make sure that the wattage of every bulb is correct.

Imagine disassembling a light housing with a small screwdriver while you’re hanging over a bow rail or sitting in a bosun’s chair; I prefer to use incandescent fixtures that can be serviced without tools. Remember, too, that while L.E.D. lights are virtually exempt from bulb failure, they’re no less prone to wiring and connection issues. Make certain that all nav-light wiring is fully waterproofed using either heat-shrink tubing and/or sealant. Wiring to masthead lights should be run so that its weight isn’t supported by the fixture. Navigation lights are your ally in the safe handling of your vessel. Make sure that yours can always be seen.

Steve D’Antonio offers services for boat owners and buyers through Steve D’Antonio Marine Consulting .

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• General Discussion

dashboard lights not working on new boat

• Thread starter Susanne
• Start date Aug 13, 2012
• Tags dashboard lightbulbs

• Aug 13, 2012

is it easy to replace the lightbulbs on the dash? Do you just poke around underneath or do you have to remove anything? I have a new 190 Sport. thanks! Cruisin Susan II  

You shouldn't have to replace bulbs on a new boat. Call your dealer and have them check fuses, etc.  

It is a long story. Dealer bad at service. They finally gave me the bimini screws I needed that were loose and fell out. They sent me light bulbs so I have to put them in myself or hire someone. They are 2 1/2 hours from where I live and I don't have much confidence in this dealer. It took them 5 weeks to send two little screws. Thanks for your reply! Crusin Susan II  

Is the entire dash dark or just a piece of it?  

Well-Known Member

If all of the lights are out at the same time it probably isn't the bulbs. They last for many years and the chances of them all burning out at once is slim to none unless there is another problem. More likely to be a problem with a switch, common ground, or common power. The bulbs are probably grounded in each gauge by the socket itself and there is probably a wire connecting them all to power. Could also be a bad or loose connection on the Nav Light switch if they are designed to go on when you turn on the Nav Lights. Are they out as well? Lots of possibilities. An expensive test light and a few minutes under the dash and it should be easy enough to diagnose, and probably fix.  

• Aug 14, 2012

JVM225 said: An expensive test light and a few minutes under the dash and it should be easy enough to diagnose, and probably fix. Click to expand...

There are three gauges on the dashboard. The bigger middle one lights up fine. The other two don't light up. When I asked the dealer about it via email, he sent me two light bulbs along with the two bimini screws and no explanation or form of contact. This was only after I hinted that I may need to resort to the Internet. So the dealer apparently thinks the light bulbs are the problem on a brand new boat. Thanks for all this advice!!!! CRII  

Could well be the bulbs if one does light up. I'd try removing one of the gauge lenses first....try gently unscrewing the ring around the glass. Don't force it. If it does come off, from there you might be able to pull the gauge out, very gently and get behind it. These are backlit so the bulb is behind the face of the gauge. If it doesn't unscrew you can try pulling the four screws off the entire face plate of the dash and try getting at the back of those gauges that way. Just go slow and very careful. If you feel like it won't work I'd suggest stopping and calling in a marine mechanic for an hours worth of labor.  

I am on my way to my mechjanci to get an oil and filter change as part of the protection plan so I am hoping he can help me and not have it be very expensive. Thanks!  

Should be easy for the mechanic!! Good luck!!  

Yea! My mechanic put the light bulbs in for free and it worked.Yea!  

Nice!!!!  

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Dashboard Lights Explained: Meaning of Different Symbols & Indicators

Whether you have a brand-new car or a tried-and-true used vehicle, every once in a while you’ll see one of your dashboard symbols light up while you’re driving. Although you may know what a few of the symbols mean, it’s likely that some of those warning lights may be mysterious and concerning. In some cases, dashboard lights may just be reminding you to schedule service or check some system in your car before something more serious occurs. In other cases, they serve as an important warning to act as soon as possible.

Today, we will go through the most common and important dashboard warning lights, what they mean, and which ones will require you to take action. You’ll also find complete lists of all lights at the end of the article.

The Most Common Warning Symbols on Your Car’s Dashboard

The following dozen dashboard warning lights are some of the most commonly seen by drivers, and it’s particularly important that you understand what they are telling you.

In some cases, they may just be reminding you to schedule service or check some system in your car before something more serious occurs. In other cases, they serve as an important warning to act as soon as possible.

Fuel Warning Light

This is a well-known one – the low fuel warning light. Usually, this light comes on when your fuel tank is dangerously near empty. Although some drivers ignore the low fuel warning for dozens of miles, it’s more prudent to start looking for a gas station as soon as this light is triggered. Remember, stopping for gas before you hit empty will save you a lot of stress and time should you run out of fuel on the road.

Oil Indicator Light

Besides gasoline, having the right level of oil in your car may be the next most important fluid to keep things running smoothly. Good quality and proper quantity of oil serve to keep your engine lubricated well and functioning at its peak. If your oil warning light goes on, this may indicate one of several things. It may be time to schedule a regular oil change or be prompting you to add oil to your vehicle. This dashboard light may also be triggered if you need to repair an oil pump that has malfunctioned and is no longer circulating enough oil throughout your vehicle. Regardless of the issue, this problem should be addressed as soon as possible.

Tire Pressure Light

When your parents were young, it’s likely that their families used an old-fashioned tire pressure gauge to periodically check that car tires were inflated properly. However, these days, most vehicles can monitor this automatically. If your tire pressure warning light is on, it means that one or more of your tires may require more air. Although this is often not an emergency, be sure to check and refill your tires as soon as possible. It may indicate a slow leak caused by a nail lodged in your tire or serve as a warning that you may be dealing with a flat tire in the near future. If you drive with incorrect tire pressure for a long period of time, it can cause additional problems in your car as well as result in poor gas mileage.

Check Engine Light

The “check engine” warning light may be hard to interpret, this is due to the fact that a wide variety of issues may trigger this warning. On one hand, it may require a simple fix such as tightening your gas cap. If your gas cap Is loose, fuel may evaporate and trigger your engine light.

On the other hand, the warning light could indicate a serious problem that requires immediate attention. When your check engine light appears, be sure to have a mechanic evaluate the problem as soon as possible. Many auto supply stores can help you diagnose the light at no charge.

Battery Warning Light

Although this dashboard symbol is symbolized by a battery, problems that trigger this warning may have to do with a car’s overall electrical system in addition to battery issues. When this light appears, pay close attention to the electrical systems in your vehicle. For example, if your headlights seem dim, you may require a new battery. Other electrical systems and alternator problems may require a professional to diagnose and repair.

Seat Belt Indicator Light

The seatbelt warning light may be one of the most important in your car. If the driver or the front seat passenger is not buckled up safely, this light will often be triggered along with a warning beep or signal.

In most states, wearing a seatbelt is required by law. Be sure that all your passengers stay buckled anytime your vehicle is moving. The use of seat belts significantly reduces injury and death in car-related accidents.

Temperature Warning Light

Although your vehicle probably has a temperature gauge that ranges from cold to hot, it’s unlikely that you check it frequently. Vehicle manufacturers realize this and, therefore, have included a temperature warning light.

When this light is triggered, it means that your engine is overheating, which can be a dangerous situation. Most likely this is caused by a low coolant level or some other problem with the cooling system in your car. Be sure to have a professional mechanic explore the reason for this problem as soon as possible.

Brake Warning Light

The brake warning light can have multiple meanings, which can be confusing for drivers. It will be on if you have engaged your parking brake, for example, and is simply reminding you to disengage it before driving.

However, if your parking brake is not on and your brake light still is, this may indicate a problem with your brake pads, discs, or calipers. It can also be triggered when your brake fuel is low or your ABS system is not working. The inability to stop a car is a dangerous situation, so if your brake light is on, be sure to find the cause immediately.

Cruise Control Indicator Light

Usually, the cruise control light is not a warning light like many of the others on this list. Instead, it simply reminds you that your cruise control feature is engaged and that you can simply set your car to maintain a constant speed. However, in some cases, if the light isn’t green, it can indicate a problem with the system.

Traction Control Light

Driving during inclement weather conditions can be hazardous. Fortunately, many car manufacturers have added features to help make winter and rainy driving a little safer. The traction control indicator symbol signifies that a car’s traction control system is on. Working with an anti-lock brake system (ABS), the traction control can detect when one wheel is spinning faster and slipping. At this time, the system triggers the braking system until the car regains traction.

Anti-lock Brake Light

ABS stands for anti-lock brakes, and when this warning light appears, it indicates a problem with the car’s ABS system. Although your regular brakes will continue working even without your ABS, it’s important to get this problem examined by a professional at your earliest convenience. This is especially important if you’ll be driving in wet, icy, or snowy conditions when an ABS system provides an extra layer of safety support to keep your tires in contact with the road.

All Warning Symbols

All Red Safety Symbols

The warning lights on your car’s dashboard are designed to help you drive safely and reduce emergency problems on the road. Be sure you pay attention to them when they appear. If you’re not certain of their meaning, consult your driver’s manual for more details.

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Troubleshooting Boat Gauges, Instruments and Meters

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Here's important information you need to know with the operation, maintenance, and troubleshooting of your boat's gauges and meters.

Voltmeter connection circuit.

Gauges and meters sit unobtrusively on our boat-engine control panels, switchboards, and navigation stations; they're windows into our boat systems and without them, systems and equipment would operate invisibly and fail without warning. Such devices are crucial to ensuring that boat engines run correctly within normal operating parameters and that we don't overload electrical systems.

Water temperature meter circuit.

These days our gauges and meters may be an array of discrete analog meters, just a couple of basic meters, or a new generation of integrated digital and visual screen displays. I'm one who still favors analog displays and it's for good reason that aircraft still use them as parts of the latest high-tech screen displays. A quick glance is all that's needed to see that your systems are all "go." That is an important point to remember because, when considering meters and gauges, it's not always about the numbers; it's also about monitoring trends, up or down, of the system that the gauge or meter is monitoring.

Engine Watch

We're all familiar with engine gauges. While there's a trend to simply have an alarm, I prefer the ability to monitor pressures and temperatures on a gauge or meter. Of course, there are many possible pressures and temperatures to monitor; it all depends on what and how much you want to monitor. The basics are sufficient for most boaters.

Oil Pressure

One of the fundamental parameters that need a gauge. The oil pressure sender or transducer unit for the meter uses variable resistance inside a housing that changes in proportion to the pressure applied to it.

Typical multiple gauge connection arrangement.

Low oil pressure readings are caused by low lube oil level or a clogged oil filter or, worst case, by a faulty oil pump. Always believe the meter indication and stop the engine. Many people doubt the meter and learn from the consequences.

Temperature

Another vital parameter that we always monitor. The proper monitoring of water temperature is essential to the safe operation of your engine as temperature extremes can cause serious damage. The meter transducer units are resistive, and output is a resistance that's proportional to the temperature. The main causes of high temperatures typically include a faulty freshwater-pump impeller, low engine-cooling water levels, and fouled coolers. In addition, your meter might be telling you of problems with the saltwater (raw-water) cooling system.

Engine Tachometer

Another essential meter and is indispensable for monitoring engine speed. Observing this information enables us to make informed decisions on fuel consumption and boat performance. There are several tachometer types, based on the sensing system with the meter. The generator tachometer inputs a signal from a mechanically driven generator unit, which outputs an AC voltage proportional in amplitude to the speed, and this is then decoded by the tachometer. Variations in speed give a proportional change in output voltage, and therefore a change in meter reading. The inductive tachometer has an inductive magnetic sensor that detects changes in magnetic flux as the teeth on a flywheel move past the sensor head. This transmits a series of on/off pulses to the meter that are counted and displayed as speed on the tachometer. The alternator tachometer takes a pulse from the DC charging alternator AC winding. This signal is a frequency directly proportional to the engine speed.

Exhaust Gas Temperature

Commonly used in commercial ships and is becoming more common on powerboats and even on sailing boats. Engine problems are often easier and faster to identify with this instrument than water temperature and oil pressure monitoring. Exhaust temperature sensors are also known as thermocouples or pyrometers. The sensors consist of two dissimilar metals, which, at the junction, generate a small voltage proportional to the heat applied to the sensor, and the voltage is measured in millivolts (mV).

Liquid-Level Monitoring

Monitoring quantities is essential with a simple electrical gauge. Most tank sensors operate on the same principle of varying a resistance proportional to the tank level volume.

Oil pressure meter circuit.

The immersion pipe sensor consists of a damping tube that has an internal float that moves up and down along two wires. These units are generally only suitable for fuel tanks, and the one advantage is that they are well damped; fluctuating meter readings with fluid movement are reduced by the damping effect.

The lever-type sensor comprises a sensor head installed on the end of an adjustable arm. The sensor head has a variable-resistance and float-arm pivot. As the float and arm move relative to the fluid level, the resistance changes, and the meter reading shows the actual level.

Exhaust temperature meter circuit.

The capacitive sensor operates on the principle that the value of a capacitor is dependent on a dielectric between plates. The sender unit measures the capacitance difference between air and the liquid. The sensing circuit outputs a voltage proportional to the level in the typical range of 0 to 5 volts.

Essential Electrics

Voltmeter or ohmmeter.

Within an electric-gauge system, it is scaled, or graduated, to display the voltage or resistance output from a transducer or sender unit. The VDO range characterizes this type of meter. In a diaphragm-based mechanical system, the meter connects to capillary tubing and operates using vapor pressure to mechanically change the meter via the diaphragm. These types may also incorporate electrical alarm contacts within the meter, and are characterized by the Murphy Swichgage range ( www.fwmurphy.com ).

Shunt ammeter meter connection.

Many instrument panels incorporate a voltmeter to show the level of the charging voltage. Charging voltmeters have a colored meter scale to allow a quick view of conditions, a red zone for under- or overcharge, and green zone for proper charging range.

The in-line, or series, ammeter has the main charging alternator output cable connected directly to it and then to the batteries. The long cable run to the meter often causes significant charging system voltage drops and resultant undercharging. Another, more noticeable problem is that the heavy current-carrying cables are run with other cables and this is a cause of radio interference; often you will see other meters "twitching" or pulsing.

The shunt ammeter is essentially a resistance or shunt inserted in the charging cable. The twisted pair of meter wires are connected to the shunt and can be run to any meter location without voltage drop problems, as the output is in millivolts.

Hour Counters

Operating hour-meters and counters are necessary to track engine hours for service and maintenance. The meter and counter are only activated when the engine operates. The ignition switch is probably the most practical method of activating the meter, which is simply connected across the ignition positive and a negative so that it operates when the engine is running. The oil-pressure switch-activation method is now uncommon although some older installations activate through the oil-pressure switch.

Basic Maintenance

The simple meter and sensor arrangement does require some basic maintenance:

• Remove oil-pressure sensor units from the engine every year and clean any oil sludge or deposits out of the sensor orifice. These tend to clog, causing incorrect readings. When sensor units are badly grounded on the engine block, it's often found that Teflon tape is incorrectly applied to the threads. Do not use Teflon tape as this creates a high-resistance contact and causes incorrect or even no meter readings. The same advice applies to temperature sensors.
• Check that tachometer sensors that pick up from the engine flywheel are secure. A common cause of failure is damage to the sensor head caused by striking the flywheel when it comes loose.
• Check wiring and ensure it is secure and not chafing or rubbing on any surfaces. Check that the sensor terminal and wire connections are tight and clean.
• For mechanically activated gauges, check capillary tubes for any signs of rubbing or chafing and ensure that tubing is secure.

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6 Troubleshooting Tips For Boat Lights Not Working

Beginners often struggle to manage their boating systems, and you will likely get stuck in some issues like the lights not working or the wiring getting damaged.

While these issues are not that serious, they sure as hell are annoying. You won’t be able to get through the fishing trip and wiring problems can mess up your whole equipment.

So, instead of taking your boat out for a spin right away, we will suggest that you work with a professional for a couple of weeks.

Spending time with an expert brings many advantages from minor tips to understanding how to tackle serious situations and complications. 

The majority of boat owners don’t have experience in handling the lights on the board.

However, the boat lights not working can be extremely frustrating, and tracking down the core causes can be pretty challenging.

There is a good chance that you’ll just mess about to find a solution, and the situation will keep getting more and more serious by the second. 

So, if the bulbs are not working on your boat  or the lights are not responding you need to fix that right away.

While we can’t guarantee that you will be able to fix the boat lights 100 percent of the time, following through with these solutions should make your life easier.

Boat Lights Not Working

If your boat has the DC bulb, you must remember that these bulbs can blow out as the AC lamps.

First of all, you must ensure that the light is switched on by checking the switches, or you can also check the remote switches.

In addition to this, the bulb must be switched on from the circuit breaker panel and control switch because many people simply forget to switch on bulbs from the circuit.

If all these things are ruled out, there is something else to focus on.

The second option is checking the bulb and examining it. For instance, if you are working with the navigation lights, make sure you don’t end up dropping something when you are disassembling it. 

Anyhow, when you inspect the bulb, look for the black or grey residue because if there is some, it is defective and needs to be changed.

For future reference, we suggest that you have a few spare bulbs for your boat to ensure you aren’t in the dark if such emergencies occur.

• Check Breaker Switches & Fuses

The second solution is to check the breaker switches and fuses on the boat, particularly the ones on the circuit breaker and control switch panels.

To begin with, you must ensure that the switches are put in the “on” position.

In addition, when the electrical circuit is protected with the help of a fuse, you must ensure that the fuse is not blown. If the fuse is blown, the metal piece will be broken and melted.

So, in such cases, replace the fuse and see if the light starts working. On the other hand, if you see the circle breaker toggles back, switch it in the “on” position again and see if the light shows up.

However, if the circuit breaker ends up tripping again, there is something wrong with the circuit, and it must be fixed.

When the battery dies down, it is pretty obvious that the boat lights will not work . So, when your boat light stops working, you need to check the battery right away.

To check the battery, it is important to use the multimeter or voltmeter for checking the continuity. If the battery doesn’t give any continuity, it is better to replace the battery.

From there, you can also make sure that the battery connections are clean and there is no gunk or debris on them.

Keeping track of the maintenance and the care requirements is the only way when you need long term performance. So, be sure to get help and that will be enough to have you sorted out. 

On the other hand, if the battery has continuity, there are high chances that the battery is not charged properly or fully. Keep in mind that the charged battery will show anything from 12.5V to 14V.

So, if it’s anything less, it is in need of a charge, and charging it will resolve the bulb issue.

Not to forget, you have to check that the battery is properly connected and the terminals have correct connections.

• Check The Switches & Sockets

If you haven’t put away the multimeter, now would be the right time to use it for checking the switches and sockets.

This is because this device helps determine if your fixtures are getting a proper electricity connection.

When it comes down to the sockets, there are two types of them, such as festoon and bayonet .

For this reason, you need to check both these sockets and make sure they are fully functional. In addition to this, check for corrosion on the housing of the socket. 

If there is corrosion, it could be a reason why the bulbs are not lighting up.

As far as the switches are concerned, you must check that their wiring is properly done. That’s because the wires can be disconnected on the back.

• Bulb Sockets

Now the next thing is the bulb sockets. However, when the sockets are not working properly or are not getting enough electricity, you need to change the sockets.

While it is possible to repair the sockets, keep in mind that replacing them will be more convenient.

Spending more on the new sockets can be a great investment. You will not only get the peace of mind here, but the response from the sockets will also be better. 

All that you have to do is to spare a bit of cash to spend on the new sockets.

From there, you will be able to install the new sockets yourself. There is no need to hire an expert if you have a basic understanding of wiring connections. 

One key point however is that you need to make sure that the main power source has been removed from the wires.

This will be more than enough to help you out, and you will not have to deal with the same hassle down the road.

• Hire A Local 

One more thing that you can do here about the bulb sockets and the wiring connections is to hire a local expert.

You don’t have to fix all of these errors on your own. So, be sure to reach out and have the officials guide you.

You can pay a minimal fee to the local experts and they will be happy to assist you. The good thing about these experts is that they maintain years of professional knowledge.

All that you gotta do is to engage them, explain to them your issue, and they will guide you through each step of the fix.

You will not have to worry about wasting any time, and these experts are pretty efficient at their job.

So, if you’re worried about wiring issues or electrocuting yourself in the process, just take a back seat and let these professionals take charge.

These experts will make your life fairly easier, and you will not have to worry about these challenges on your own.

Hopefully, these fixes should sort you out and you’ll get the boat lights working again perfectly.

Keep in mind that it is mostly the power supply to the lights and into the lights themselves that are behind this issue. So, instead of focusing on the lights only, you gotta check the power supply as well.

Wrapping Up

We’ve gone through some of the most recommended methods when it comes to fixing issues with the Boat Lights Not Working.

Ninety percent of the time, these issues are easy to fix and don’t put too much strain on your budget .

The other ten percent of the time you won’t be as lucky and will have to replace a piece of hardware or get help from the local technician.

Either way, your wallet will feel a sting and will have to spare some cash for the replacement. 

Lastly, we will also suggest that you reach out to the local anglers. If you’re able to grab the attention of a local expert, that will put you far ahead of the learning curve.

So, be sure to reach out and the locals will make your life much easier.

All that you have to do is reach out. The only thing that you’ll need to do is to explain your end and have the officials help you out.

From there, following their instructions will be simple, and you will be able to grab a new piece in no time. 

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Find a manual, dashboard warning lights you can't ignore, you are here.

Dashboard warning lights are just like your doctor – when they tell you something, you're wise to act on the advice.

So, when you start your car and all of the lights go out, you can move along – there's nothing to see here. But if one or two of the dashboard warning lights stay illuminated then it pays to know what they are and what they're telling you.

Ignoring the fact that optional equipment (and the associated warning lights) varies from one car to another, there’s a core set of warning lights that are common to most modern vehicles. Some are gentle reminders of things you'll need to attend to in time, some are merely for information, and some are so serious that you should pull over and shut off the motor as soon as it is safe.

Do you know which is which, and what they all mean? To give you a steer, we’ve broken them down into sections so that you know just what you’re dealing with – and what you need to do next when one lights up!

Stop the car!

Dashboard warning lights get no more serious than these. You or your car are at serious risk, and you should pull over and shut off the engine as soon as it’s safe to do so. Depending on the issue, some of these lights may indicate you need to call a tow truck or roadside assistance, because even if possible continuing to drive would be dangerous.

Check Engine Light (CEL)/Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) With the introduction of the OBDII system (onboard diagnostics, version 2) this light appeared in every car and on some motorcycles. If it is flashing it indicates a serious problem and you should pull over and turn off the car as soon as it is safe. When it lights up, it means the computer electronic control unit (ECU) has detected a problem in the engine or emission controls systems. The problem could be mechanical, or electronic, or could even be nothing more than a sensor going bad; you won't be able to tell without a code reader, but you should stop as soon as possible to investigate.

Brakes/ABS This indicates an issue with the brakes or the anti-lock braking system (ABS), and driving while the brakes are compromised is more than a little unwise. If it is an ABS issue, the car may be able to be driven, but you lose the added safety of ABS in a panic stop, and if it is a bad ABS sensor, you may lose stability and traction control as well. The brake light may also light up if your car has lost some brake fluid, or if the emergency brake has been left engaged. 

Power steering failure Modern cars use power steering, with either electric or hydraulic assistance, or sometimes both. Either way, if it calls it a day, not only will the dashboard warning light illuminate, but you'll be more than aware of the issue because the steering will suddenly become very heavy indeed. Without power steering a car can still be driven safely, but it will take considerable strength to steer; emergency maneuvers might be affected.

Airbag warning This warning light indicates a fault with the airbag system, also known as the supplemental restraint system (SRS). It doesn't affect the way the car drives or handles but could be very serious if you are involved in an accident. Driving with extra caution is suggested, but you should be safe to continue on to home or work. A variation of this light could light to indicate the passenger side air bag has been deactivated, manually or because a baby seat is detected.

Oil pressure This old-style oil fill jug warning light indicates that something in the engine oil is below optimal. Similar lights can mean oil pressure, oil level (an oil jug with a wavy line below it), or oil temperature (with a thermometer). When this light is red it means that there is not enough oil pressure in the engine to circulate the oil and prevent wear. You must pull over and shut off the car immediately or the engine could be damaged. If the light glows amber, it is less serious, but still means you need to check and possibly add oil as soon as possible.

Cooling system Typically when this dashboard warning light glows red it means your car is getting close to overheating, and you risk causing serious damage if you continue to drive. If this light comes on red soon after starting the engine, it likely indicates the coolant level is low. Some cars illuminate the same light in blue when the car is cold to remind you to drive less aggressively until the engine is fully warm.

Doors ajar If one or more doors are not properly latched, you should stop and fix it as some as it is safe to do so.

Trunk/Hood open Slightly less dangerous than a door being unlatched, the hood or trunk/hatch coming open while driving is still a safety issue. Most modern cars will now warn you before a dangerous situation happens, like an unlatched hood flipping up and blocking your view of the road.

Routine reminders

Not every warning indicator on the dashboard is something serious that you ought to be concerned about. Many are just reminders to perform ordinary maintenance tasks.

General service reminder The computers in cars today keep track of general driving conditions, and mileage, to be able to remind you to have your car serviced periodically. Often an amber or red wrench will appear, or the words "service engine soon", to let you know that it is time for an oil change or other service. Which service and how frequently differs by make and model, and if you follow our accelerated service plan you will find yourself resetting this light frequently before it is even activated.

Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) Tires lose air over time, and the pressure can also be affected by a drop in ambient temperature, which can affect handling, braking, and fuel economy. For these reasons many modern cars have small electronic monitors in the wheels that will warn you on the dash if a tire is off by as little as 5 psi. Typically this isn't cause for alarm, but a TPMS light can indicate that you have run over something and a flat is imminent, so it's worth pulling over to check.

Loose gas cap Modern emissions are so strict that the fumes evaporating out of an open gas cap can contain several times more unburned hydrocarbons that what comes out the tailpipe. For this reason cars now have sealed systems, and will alert you if a leak is detected. Typically, it's just a case of undoing the filler cap and screwing it back in until it clicks. 

Low fuel warning Most of us keep a pretty sharp eye on the fuel gauge, but the fuel warning light is a useful reminder that you’re on borrowed time. Depending on your car you may have 15-30 miles worth of fuel in the tank – your car’s owner's manual may tell you how much range you have left before you have to get out and push, or many cars these days will start counting down estimated range when the light comes on.

Diesel exhaust fluid (DEF) Plenty of diesel pick-ups are sold in North America, and they have their own specific dashboard warning lights, the most important of which is the DEF light. DEF is the blue fluid injected into diesel exhaust to fight pollution, and if you run out your truck will go into limp mode or may not start. When this light is lit, fill up the blue diesel exhaust fluid tank at the next fill up.

Key fob missing/battery low With proximity keys, you no longer have to insert the key into the slot to start the car, but you do need a key with a good battery in it. If the battery goes dead you may not be able to start the car, or you may be forced to use the manual back-up. Your car should give you plenty of warning before that happens, with a warning light on the dashboard. This light will also warn you if you try to drive it without the key, if for instance, the passenger gets out and takes the keys with them. Unfortunately, many cars will allow you to drive for miles before immobilizing themselves, stranding you miles from the keys.

Headlights on On cars with daytime running lights (DRL), it can be hard to tell if your actual headlights are on. This can be dangerous because the DRLs are not as bright as the headlights. To counter this, most cars now have a green lantern shape to indicate your lights are on, or sometimes an indication that they are on "auto". This can look similar to the high beam indicator, but is green instead of blue.

Washer fluid A washer fluid warning light? Believe us, it's important. Washer fluid is more important than it seems, as anyone who has suddenly found themselves driving into the setting sun with a dirty windshield can attest to. You can go days and weeks without using the windshield washer, so it’s easy to be surprised when the reservoir needs filling up. A washer fluid warning light avoids this.

These are some other warnings you might see, but typically they mean you have a problem, not the car.

Parking brake on As mentioned earlier, if you leave the parking brake on you will get a warning, long before the smell of burning brakes alerts you. This may be a red circle with a "P" in the middle, or it could just be a multi-purpose brake warning indicator. There's ususally an audible warning to accompany the light.

Seat belts This needs no explanation, we all know we should buckle up for safety, and if you don't your car will remind you with a light and a beeping alarm.

As for the rest…

We couldn’t include every single warning lamp on every single car model, so we’ve stuck to the really important ones that could make the difference between dangerous driving, expensive repairs or a ticket from law enforcement officers.

You have been warned. (Ahem.)

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Group of people rescued from sailboat as it approached breakwater in Santa Barbara Friday

SANTA BARBARA, Calif. – A group of four to five people including children, were rescued without injury as their sailboat approached the breakwater near the Santa Barbara Harbor Friday.

Santa Barbara City Fire Department approached the situation from ashore and Santa Barbara Harbor Patrol from the sea detailed the Santa Barbara Harbor Patrol.

According to the Santa Barbara Harbor Patrol, everybody onboard the sailboat except one exited the sailboat and made it ashore to awaiting first responders, and the person who remained on the ailing vessel was brought safely ashore by responding Harbor Patrol personnel.

Everyone involved declined medical aid at the scene shared the Santa Barbara Harbor Patrol.

Also on Friday, Santa Barbara Waterfront maintenance personnel extinguished two small fires on the wharf caused by improperly extinguished cigarettes explained the Santa Barbara Harbor Patrol.

Santa Barbara Harbor Patrol responded to a capsized sailboat associated with a sailing class in the Santa Barbara Harbor earlier on Friday before the water rescue.

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How well do you know your car’s dashboard warning lights – and when should you worry? Take our quiz

Put your knowledge to the test with our quiz questions as you read through

There’s nothing quite so panic-inducing for drivers as when a strange and unfamiliar dashboard light switches on. What does that squiggly line mean? That one sort of looks like a light bulb… but it could also be an explosion… How worried should I be right now? 

New research from the automobile retailer Group 1 Automotive tested 2,000 drivers across the UK to assess how well they recognised dashboard symbols. 

The research found only 7 per cent were correctly able to identify one of the many dashboard symbols (the emissions control alert), with the average driver getting less than half right (45 per cent). Drivers over 65 were better at recognising symbols, getting 51 per cent right, while 18- to 24-year-olds managed only 31 per cent. Men got slightly higher scores on average, though more women got full marks. 

Warning lights are a major source of roadside assistance call-outs. In 2022, the AA said that it attended more than 17,000 call-outs to vehicles with a warning light. Similarly, in 2023 the RAC reported a 22 per cent rise in breakdowns, year on year, where members reported a warning light appearing on their dashboard and contacted it for help.

However, according to the breakdown cover firm Green Flag, even the common warning lights aren’t easily recognised. Half of drivers couldn’t identify the universal tyre pressure warning light , and 43 per cent couldn’t describe the meaning of the brake system warning light. A third couldn’t even identify the check engine warning light. 

Though The Highway Code recommends drivers should conduct regular basic car maintenance, Green Flag’s research found 86 per cent of drivers do not. This means that potentially critical issues such as oil and coolant levels, tyre pressure and condition, are easily missed, which can result in further issues down the line. 

“With the sheer amount of information and warning symbols available on many modern dashboards, it’s OK to feel daunted,” admits Tony Rich, a former AA patrol of the year, who advises drivers to learn the key warnings in advance. 

“Trying to access information on warning lights if you’re in a rush, or when flustered, can lead to confusion around what the warning means,” he continues. “Knowing the difference between a light telling you that an oil change is due rather than the engine’s oil pressure being critically low can save you waiting at the roadside for help to arrive, as much as it can save you a costly trip to the garage.”

Rich’s example is a pertinent one: continuing to drive with the oil pressure warning light on can cause major engine damage within seconds. He estimates it could easily cost more than £1,000 to repair at a garage. Another one to watch out for is the coolant temperature warning light, which can also lead to significant engine damage and costly bills. 

A charging system warning light (usually symbolised by a battery) is also important to stop for. It indicates a battery-charging fault or a problem with the alternator, potentially a broken fan belt. Driving with it on can cause engine damage and electrical problems. 

The general rule of thumb is that the seriousness of warning lights depends on their colour coding, says Robert Walden, the founder of the car website Vehicle Freak. 

“Red lights are like an emergency flare,” says Walden. “When you see one, pull over asap and call for help. These indicate an immediate problem like brake failure or critically low oil pressure. Don’t ignore them or you’ll risk serious mechanical damage or a breakdown.

“Yellow lights are caution signs. They don’t mean stop right now, but get the issue checked out pronto. Power-steering problems, transmission trouble or faulty sensors often trigger a yellow symbol. Make an appointment for service within a few days to avoid a larger repair bill down the road.

“Green lights relay helpful information and typically don’t indicate trouble. Think cruise control, high beams or seat belt reminders. Refer to your owner’s manual if you’re unsure.”

There are exceptions to this, however. A flashing amber engine management light signifies an engine misfire, which can cause major damage to a vehicle’s catalytic converter or diesel particulate filter, so it pays to know the key ones off the top of your head. 

It’s also worth remembering that different car manufacturers sometimes use different symbols, although the main ones tend to look broadly similar. “Some symbols are common across manufacturers (oil pressure, engine management, charging system etc) but others differ from one to another,” explains Rich. “Those that differ are usually secondary systems like airbags, ABS [anti-lock braking system], or traction control.” 

It’s also worth remembering that the most important and hazardous warning lights, such as the aforementioned engine oil pressure or engine coolant system, are a legal requirement for vehicle manufacturers; other lights are optional. “The specification of the car could affect the amount of warnings you can see,” says Nathan New, a car service expert at Harwoods McLaren in the New Forest. “Not all cars would have tyre pressure readings inside the car, especially cars of lower quality or specification.”

There are also some new lights that are specific to modern electric vehicles. Some will feature a general fault light. This is usually linked to the increase in technological components found in an electric vehicle (EV) so it might be anything from brakes to the vehicle’s turning. There’s also a battery temperature warning light, which replaces the engine oil warning light. Newer EVs may also display an external sound system warning; this is important because most EVs can move silently, so a fault in this system might prevent pedestrians from hearing the car at all. 

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Dash guage lights not working?

• Thread starter Jeff Lynne Dylan
• Start date May 1, 2011

Jeff Lynne Dylan

• May 1, 2011

I recently purchased a 2006 Larson LXI 228 bowrider boat but for some reason there is no dash lights at night on the guages , the toggle switches light up however. Does anyone know if there is something I am missing or is it possible being a boat the guages don't light up? Thanks Jeff  

Re: Dash guage lights not working? I wonder if you just don't know the switches yet. Did you try putting the lights switch in all 3 positions? It's also possible someone disabled them on purpose. I wish I could turn mine off some nights. One of these days I'm going to put a dimmer or a switch on them like the car.l  

Supreme Mariner

Re: Dash guage lights not working? Stick your head under the console and check the back of any of the gauges except the speedometer. If there are three wires, there is no light (would be highly unusual). If there are four wires the gauges are lighted. You have to have the NAV lights on most boats to turn those lights on. On some boats they are wired to the "A" terminal on the ignition switch so they are on anytime the ignition is on.