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Saturday, October 10, 2020

The Complete History Of The Rolex Yacht-Master

The Complete History

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The Watch Of The Open Seas: History Of The Rolex Yacht-Master

Instagram: @rolex

In the year 1992, Swiss watchmaker Rolex would debut a new model line at the Baselworld show that was strikingly similar to the already-popular Submariner. It featured the same 40mm Oyster case with a rotating bezel, the same chronometer-certified caliber, and the same Oyster bracelet.

Seemingly the only difference between the two was the white dial of that first Yacht-Master, a style which has never been an option on a Sub, and the inferior depth rating of 100m when compared to the Sub’s 300m.

Yet, the Yacht-Master was well-received upon launch, and with the passing of time, the yachting-inspired model has evolved and pioneered its own path within Rolex’s catalog.

Read on with us as we go back to the beginning and track the catalysts that paved the way for the most recent Yacht-Master release, the Yacht-Master 42 (226659), to become one of the hottest sports timepieces of the year.

History Of The Rolex Yacht-Master

We’ve broken down our overview of the Yacht-Master into the following segments:

Release Of The Yacht-Master

The Submariner/Yacht-Master Theory

Mid-Size & Ladies’ Yacht-Master
Platinum (Rolesium) Yacht-Master

The Maxi Dial Yacht-Master

Two-Tone Rolesor Yacht-Master

The Yacht-Master II

Six-Digit Yacht-Master

The Oysterflex Yacht-Master

Keep scrolling to read this guide from its beginning, or use the links above to jump down to a specific point.

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The Release Of The Yacht-Master

The first Yacht-Master watch was launched in 1992 under reference number 16628. It featured a yellow gold case, a bidirectional graduated bezel, and a matching full-gold Oyster bracelet. Its dial was white with black hour indices, while at center were gold Mercedes hands, and beating inside was the 3135 movement.

Rolex ref. 16628. Instagram: @m_j_watches

Previous to the Yacht-Master’s introduction, Rolex had not released a new model line in a quarter century. So, why did they go with the Yacht-Master, a design that risked being a detractor from their existing Submariner? Let’s take a look at the inspiration.

The sport of yachting is one which demands precise timing and extreme coordination of the entire crew for optimal performance, particularly in offshore competitions.

Vintage Rolex Daytona Yacht-Master Prototype

Prototype Daytona Yacht-Master ref. 6239. Image: Christies.com

Rolex believed their waterproof and chronometer-grade timepieces to be more than qualified to handle the knocks of a regatta and keep ticking accurately. The brand is also notorious for their marketing prowess, which led them to act quickly in establishing an association with the sport.

Beginning in 1958 with their first sponsorship of a race, the relationship has endured until today, when the brand sponsors over a dozen international yachting events.

Nevertheless, it’s hard to deny that there exists a large gap between first contact in 1958 and the release of the yacht-inspired timepiece in the early ’90s. Why wasn’t the Yacht-Master released earlier on?

Well, Rolex played around with the idea of yachting chronograph early on, though it never materialized. All that’s left of these trials are an extremely limited number of Daytona ref. 6239 chronograph prototypes with a 39mm case (vs standard 36mm) and modified regatta dials.

Unfortunately, the Yacht-Master concept was scrapped and would not reappear until decades later.

When it did return, none of the previous Yacht-Master’s DNA was there. Furthermore, the 1992 Yacht-Master was bizarrely similar to the 16610 Sub of the time.

Interestingly enough, Rolex folklore tells of a time in the ’80s when the brand sought to update their Submariner . What resulted was less of an update and more of an overhaul, manifested as what we know now as the first Yacht-Master.

Apprehensive of the repercussions that making such aggressive design changes to their staple offering could bring, the brand chose instead to release the watch intended to be a new Submariner as the reborn Yacht-Master instead.

The move worked, and the new Yacht-Masters started flying off the shelves. The Yacht-Master was perceived as a more luxurious Sub, though its bidirectional bezel proved useful for on-the-fly countdowns which are critical in sailing competitions. The waterproof nature of the Oyster case further cemented the Yacht-Master as the ideal first mate.

Mid-Size & Ladies’ Yacht-Master

In 1994, just two years after the debut of the 16628, Rolex would introduce the same design but in smaller case sizes. These were:

Ref. 68628: Yacht-Master “Mid-Size” in 35mm
Ref. 69628: Yacht-Master Ladies’ in 29mm

This marked the first time that Rolex ever offered one of their sports models in a smaller case size; all previous instances of case size changes were increases as opposed to reductions. It has been speculated that the smaller cases were intended for the Asian market.

Yacht-Master ref. 16628. Instagram: @thewatchcentre

In the same year, Rolex also offered the same 16628 but this time with a deep blue dial. Blue dials tend to make for broadly-liked watches, and coupled with the gold case and bracelet, the new version was once again a hit.

The Platinum (Rolesium) Yacht-Master

The next update to the model line would come in 1999 with yet another home-run: the Rolesium Yacht-Master. The new watch featured a stainless steel case and bracelet with a platinum dial and platinum-insert bezel. Rolesium, a term registered by Rolex back in the ’30s for a combination of steel and platinum in a watch, was finally put to use.

The new platinum Yacht-Master ref. 16622 was not only more accessible than the previous all-gold varieties, it was also more versatile. This would lead the 16622 variety to become the face of the Yacht-Master line.

In fact, many online resources erroneously label it the first Yacht-Master ever; this should offer an idea of how emblematic it is in the watch industry.

The 16622 also presented a new dial and hand style that would mark Rolex as a whole through to the modern day. The new Yacht-Master boasted what is now recognized as the “maxi dial”.

Yellow Gold Rolex Yacht-Master Blue Dial 16628

Rolex Yacht-Master 16628 w/ maxi dial. Instagram: @kellokonttori

The maxi dial is characterized by oversized hour indices as well as larger hands at center. To the untrained eye, the difference may be difficult to spot, though experienced collectors will note the change instantly.

The maxi dial became the style of choice for all modern Rolex sports watches, though it got its start in the 1999 platinum Yacht-Master. A Submariner would first feature a maxi dial in 2003, with the release of the 50th anniversary Rolex Submariner “Kermit” (16610LV).

All versions of the Yacht-Master produced after the introduction of the maxi dial would also feature the new dial design. This included the blue, gold, and white dial versions from years past.

The Two-Tone (Rolesor) Yacht-Master

Six years after the Rolesium Yacht-Master came to be, Rolex would once more put on display their mixed-metal Rolesor style in the two-tone Yacht-Master 16623.

Two-Tone Rolex Yacht-Master Blue Dial 16823

Yacht-Master ref. 16623. Instagram: @v.davidofftimepieces

The 2005 debuts possessed a 40mm steel case, a yellow gold bidirectional bezel, and a two-tone Oyster bracelet. As far as dials, many of the previous styles were also available like the black-on-white, though mother of pearl version were also introduced.

It was during Baselworld 2007 when Rolex would introduce the Yacht-Master’s younger and much larger sibling, the Yacht-Master II. Whereas the original Yacht-Master was very close functionally to the Sub, the Yacht-Master II was completely the opposite.

It can be said that the only overlap between the YM and the YMII is be the name, as the second iteration looks like a whole new watch. This time, though, it’s clear that the watch has been designed with the needs of yachting professionals in mind.

The first Yacht-Master II were marked by a 44mm Oyster case, an Oyster bracelet, a white dial, and a blue Cerachrom (ceramic) Ring Command bezel. The first two references, 116688 and 116689, were made of yellow gold and white gold, respectively.

Powering the YMII was another innovation – Rolex’s in-house calibre 4161. It features the COSC-chronometer certification and 72-hour power reserve that are today’s standard, though they were industry-leading at the time. Most notable, though, was the 4161 movement’s functions.

The new caliber boasted a “ programmable countdown with mechanical memory and on-the-fly synchronization. ” Naturally, the programming of the movement required the use of the Ring Command bezel, a feature which had also never been encountered on a Rolex watch before.

In later years, Rolex would go on to release Rolesor and full-steel versions of the Yacht-Master II, both of which have been relatively successful. The Yacht-Master II has certainly earned a spot in the brand’s catalog, and is sure to stick around for next couple of decades.

The Six-Digit Yacht-Master

Yacht-Master 116622

Twenty years after it debuted as the 16628, the Yacht-Master would see in 2012 the modernization that had been sweeping Rolex’s other model families.

Aside from receiving a new six-digit reference number (116622), subtle aesthetic changes were also present, as was an outstanding new dial option – the Cobalt Blue dial.

The case was now a “super case”, which retained the 40mm diameter but was styled differently. The bezel was now completely platinum, where previous versions were made of steel with a platinum insert. The Oyster bracelet had likewise been upgraded.

A platinum bezel / platinum dial option was still part of the collection and therefore received the same upgrades. Unfortunately, this iconic “albino” look would be completely discontinued in 2017.

The subsequent and most recent significant change to the Yacht-Master family took place in 2015, when Rolex first introduced the Everose Yacht-Master 40 ref. 116655.

Rolex Everose Yacht-Master on Oysterflex bracelet

The newest iteration of the YM possessed some new features. The case was made of Everose, and the bezel now boasted a black Cerachrom insert. Securing the watch to the wrist was another Rolex first – the Oysterflex rubber ‘bracelet’.

Before the 116655, no Rolex watch had ever sported a rubber band. The brand still refers to it as a bracelet given the metal elements within the band, but these are not obvious even with the watch in the hand.

This same style of Yacht-Master would receive the next update in 2019, when Rolex introduced the Yacht-Master 42 in white gold.

What’s Next?

With the recent changes that the Yacht-Master line has had, it is clear that Rolex intends to keep this model family alive and well for years to come. Consumers are likewise responding to each new release, offering plenty of feedback with their pocketbooks.

If you’d like to read up on any of Rolex’s other model families, make sure to check out some of our extensive watch guides below:

History Of The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona
Overview Of The Most Luxurious Pilot’s Watch: The GMT-Master
How Did The Day-Date Become The President’s Watch?
Review Of Rolex’s Longest Running Watch Model
Rolex Watches That Could Become The Investment Of A Lifetime

"I have always been a fan of the Yacht-Master, but I had no idea that it didn't exist until the 1990s. Thanks for the information, and thanks for keeping it entertaining. Well done!"

Watch Content

A guide to the Rolex Yacht-Master

Over the years, the Rolex Yacht-Master watch has grown significantly, becoming one of the most diverse ranges of Rolex watch available.

The evolution of the luxury brand’s classic sports watch has extended beyond imaginable parallels, offering the avid collector various choices in bracelet style, bezel material and case size over three entire decades. As such, the Yacht-Master continues to prove itself a valuable and dependable mainstay within the manufacturer’s current catalogue, despite many models having become discontinued over the years. To define the Yacht-Master by Rolex, one would categorize it as a luxury sports watch, yet the collection can be broken down into two watches that remain incredibly similar to one another, despite a slightly different name.

. One is the Yacht-Master - a watch that can be considered the original sports model designed by Rolex, intended for setting sail with and enjoying whilst sailing aboard a luxury yacht. The Yacht-Master II, however, is designed for more precise functionality. Equipped with all the technology to enable an individual to record regatta timings, this younger distinction of the model is classified as a watch for racing a yacht as opposed to enjoying alongside a ride on one.

Whether wearing a Rolex Yacht-Master for aesthetical or practical reasons, however, its sleek looks and refined qualities are characteristics that are sought after far and wide amongst Rolex fans. Like with every Rolex, however, there are some factors to research and consider before investing in your very first Yacht-Master and these include pricing, history and features amongst many others.

What are the differences between the Yacht-Master and Yacht-Master II?

To break down the key differences between the Rolex Yacht-Master and the Rolex Yacht-Master II, here are a few quick facts. The Yacht-Master is available in sizes of 29mm, 35mm, 37mm, 40mm and 42mm and is manufactured in Rolesium, Everose Rolesor, yellow gold Rolesor, solid 18ct yellow gold, solid 18ct white gold and 18ct Everose gold. The watch offers running hours, minutes and seconds and features a date function at 3 o’clock. A bidirectional rotating bezel has a 60-minute scale upon its surface and each model promises a water resistance of 100 meters. The models are offered on an Oyster bracelet or Oysterflex bracelet. The Rolex Yacht-Master II, however, is available in a 44mm size and is offered in a solid stainless steel version, as well as Everose Rolesor, 18ct yellow gold and 18ct white gold. Function-wise, the models offer running seconds with an adjustable countdown timer with a mechanical memory. The watch also features a ring command bezel, along with 100-meter water resistance and is fitted on an Oyster bracelet.

A brief history of the Rolex Yacht-Master watch collection

A brief history of both the Rolex Yacht-Master and Yacht-Master II watches is beneficial before investing in a model from this range. Though not introduced until 1992, the Rolex Yacht-Master watch had foundations secured for its release much earlier than that. The brand had partnered with the New York Yacht Club back in 1958, laying down the roots to its heritage in sailing long before the iconic sports watch was conceptualized. By this point, Rolex had ready developed its first waterproof watch thanks to the 1926 Oyster case.

In 1966, the Gipsy Moth IV yacht was sailed 29,600 miles around the world by Francis Chichester, who wore a Rolex on his wrist amongst very few other measuring tools including a sextant and nautical chart. Thanks to the Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch he wore during his journey, time could be tracked amongst rough conditions for an entire 226 days whilst at sea. It put Rolex officially on the radar of seafarers as a manufacturer capable of producing robust and reliable tools for facing the challenging conditions experienced at sea.

In 1992 the world’s first official Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master was released and was crafted entirely from 18ct yellow gold, cementing its status as a luxury tool watch. Over the next 15 years, Rolex would experiment with various case materials until in 2007, the first Yacht-Master II was born. Sportsmen could utilize this tool watch whilst regatta racing – its chronograph features stood out clearly and legibly across the surface of the dial. A programmable countdown timer enabled the individual to measure the countdown time before a race commences for improved precision and a better start to the competition. With flyback and fly-forward functionality, synchronization with the Race Committee was a breeze.

Current Popular Rolex Yacht-Master models

As mentioned, it is the Yacht-Master’s affinity with the sea and its diverse range of styles and case materials that make this collection so widely sought-after within the Rolex watch stratosphere. Paired with cutting-edge technology and primed for yacht race competing, the series has much to offer any luxury sports watch fan. Here are just a few Rolex Yacht-Master watches that have proven their popularity as both a tool and an investment since their release.

Rolex Yacht-Master ref 126622

Rolex Yacht-Master watches made from Rolesium make for an interesting talking point to wear with elegant attire and often make for sophisticated gifts to mark an anniversary or wedding day, especially for those who prefer their wristwatches to exude a very classic look. That said, Rolex packs a lot of modern technology into the design of a Yacht-Master watch such as the model 1266, which not only offers a very compact and manageable case size for those with a slender wrist but has also been forged from a material that is exclusive to the Yacht-Master watch range itself. Stainless Steel and platinum are materials chosen for their robust, corrosion-resistant and luxurious properties, whilst the three-link design of the oyster bracelet creates a timeless look whether paired with elegant or casual attire. Polished middle links and brushed outer links create a unique look against the wrist, especially when you consider that these finishes differ from those seen in the Rolex Submariner and Sea-Dweller models, which instead offer a fully brushed bracelet finish.

Rolex Yacht-Master ref 116680

One of the most popular Rolex Yacht-Master watches has to be the ref 116680 with a blue ceramic bezel. Rolex had begun equipping its watches with Cerachrom bezels back in the year 2005. This model was made available in stainless steel, two-tone Everose, or yellow gold, and since it belongs to the Yacht-Master II collection, measures a broad 44mm diameter. As of 2019, Rolex Yacht-Master II watches were equipped with the Calibre 3235 – a trusted workhorse for many of Rolex’s models. Framed inside this striking blue bezel is a white dial adorned with a small second sub-counter in blue at 6 o’clock, along with a countdown that can be programmed for a duration of between 1 and 10 minutes. The programming is memorized by the mechanism so that at a reset it returns to the previous setting and once launched, can be synchronized on the fly to match the official race countdown.

Rolex Yacht-Master ref 116655

The Rolex Yacht-Master ref 116656 is, without a doubt, one of the most coveted and popular models from this series of luxury sports watches. The model not only features a matte black ceramic bezel but features a set of two-textured, highly polished and raised numerals upon its sandblasted surface. The watch is fitted to an Oysterflex bracelet, promising all-round comfort and thanks to its unusual choice of contrasting rich black and luxurious pink gold colours, can be enjoyed by both male and female Rolex fans alike. An Everose case and gold serrated ring complete its look, combining nicely with the elegant black bezel, whilst on the display itself, cathedral-type hands and a cyclops date window reside.

The Rolex Yacht-Master II ref 226659

Slightly larger in size is the 42mm Rolex Yacht-Master II watch with the reference 226659, which features a stunning 18ct white gold case and bezel with a striking black Cerachrom bezel inlay for precise tracking of elapsed time. The Oysterflex bracelet is just one of the many appealing features of the Rolex Yacht-Master series. Although creating the aesthetic and sporty look of a rubber strap with its outer elastomer rubber shell in black - inside the structure of the bracelet is a series of flexible metal inserts. The Rolex Yacht-Master II ref 226659 debuted in 2019 with the desirable Calibre 3235 secured to the heart of its case, creating plenty of power reserve for those occasions when taken off the wrist, promising superior reliability and accuracy. Its classic black and white gold colourway make it easy to pair wot formal, casual or elegant attire.

There will always be plenty of reasons to invest in a Rolex Yacht-Master watch. Having been equipped with a reliable movement and a set of unique features that enable superior regatta timings out on the water, there is little else on the market that matches the supreme craftsmanship and instantly recognizable aesthetics of the iconic Rolex Yacht-Master watch. Whether you have any use for the polarizing watch’s regatta timer feature or not, it is one of the most niche complications watches imaginable. The Yacht-Master will always be a timepiece that holds its value, symbolizing a brand of significant provenance and value.

More Rolex guides

To find out more about which Rolex hold their value you can read more of our guides where we cover all Rolex Nicknames or our classic guide to the Day Date models and our comparision with their sister brand: Rolex vs Tudor .

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The History and Development of the Rolex Yacht-Master

Published on Tuesday 22nd of February 2022 Rolex Watch History

In the mid-1980s, Rolex were having great success with their line of sports watches that had remained unchanged for many years. However rumour has it that at some point Rolex were looking at redesigning the iconic Submariner . Thankfully Rolex eventually came to their senses and left the design of the Submariner alone. However, the work that had gone into the redesigned watch was rather good and it seemed a shame to leave it on the design room floor. Therefore, in the years that followed, Rolex used the new design intended for the Submariner to make a brand new line of maritime watches for the luxury market, and so the Rolex Yacht-Master was born.

The Rolex Yacht-Master made its debut in 1992, and was the first new design in 25 years (since the Sea-Dweller in 1967). Although it obviously shares its DNA with the rugged steel tool watch that is the Submariner, the Yacht-Master is designed to be a more luxurious offering, appealing to those who spend their spare time relaxing on superyachts above the water, as opposed to working under it. Originally only available in solid 18kt yellow gold, the Yacht-Master was, and still is, the only Rolex watch available in three sizes, with a 29mm - ref 69628, a 35mm - ref 68628, and the most popular being the 40mm variant ref 16628. Its wealthy target market was also well catered for in dial options, with options including various colours of mother of pearl, as well as a deep sunburst blue, with the option of hour markers in ruby-red, sapphire, and black onyx-set. The most popular dial combination being a striking white dial and contrasting black hour markers.

The Rolex Yacht-Master was exclusively available in 18kt yellow gold until 1995, when Rolex introduced a new Yacht-Master in steel and yellow gold. A few years later they added a steel and platinum model, all with the unique sandblasted finish bezel and highly polished raised numerals. An oyster bracelet and polished centre links made them stand out as the dressy luxury option in the Rolex professional line-up. All three metal variations of Rolex Yacht-Master were available in three sizes and various dial options. It wasn't until 2015 that the Rolex Yacht-Master range saw a change in design.

By the mid-2010s, Rolex had stopped making the solid 18kt yellow gold Yacht-Master, with only the steel/platinum, and steel/yellow gold versions being available until 2015. Rolex also stopped making the steel and yellow gold Yacht-Master in order to make way for a new generation of Rolex Yacht-Master. Rolex are normally trend setters in the world of watches, with many fashion brands trying to replicate the aesthetics of the Rolex range, but with the use of rose gold in fashion getting more and more popular, the Rolex Yacht-Master would be the latest in the range to adopt the ‘Everose’ material (Rolex’s own rendition of rose gold).

As well as the introduction of rose gold, the new generation of Yacht-Master ref 116655 included a first for Rolex, the option of a rubber strap. The soft black rubber of the new ‘Oysterflex’ bracelet has a flexible titanium-nickel alloy core to ensure its strength and flexibility. As well as the introduction of the Oysterflex bracelet, the new Rolex Yacht-Master also had a new bezel, keeping its sand blasted finish with raised numbers, but now made of a black scratch resistant ceramic, giving the bezel a matt black finish to contrast to the highly polished rose gold case.

A year after the introduction of the rose gold on black rubber Rolex Yacht-Master 116655, Rolex replaced the steel and yellow gold line of Yacht-Masters, with a steel and rose gold range of watches. This colour scheme, like the rose gold on rubber bracelet, is available in two sizes, a full sized 40mm watch ref 116621 (replaced with the ref 126621 in 2019), and a reduced size of 37mm ref 268621. This addition to the Rolex Yacht-Master Range means that the collection has three different variations, with two size options for each. The new steel and rose gold model, the rose gold on rubber bracelet model and the steel and platinum Yacht-Master, which is available in a 40mm (ref 126622), and in 37mm (ref 268622) size. This has two distinct dial options, a deep blue dial with a line of red text and matching seconds hand, and a dark slate dial with a turquoise blue line of text and matching seconds hand.

Amongst the new releases at the Baselworld watch fair in 2019, there was a new Yacht-Master to join the line-up. With a new case size of 42mm, the new ref 226659 is the biggest Yacht-Master yet. It has the same black Oysterflex rubber bracelet and black ceramic sandblast finish bezel like the rose gold Yacht-Masters in the range, but this new model is exclusively available in 18kt white gold and gloss black dial, giving the latest Rolex Yacht-Master a contrasting monochrome look.

Today the Rolex Yacht-Master sits in the Rolex Professional Watches range, alongside its bigger brother the Yacht-Master II, being a modern sports watch. The Yacht-Master is generating far more interest in comparison to the supply that Rolex are giving to authorised dealers, and thus the price of the Rolex Yacht-Master on the used watch market is steadily increasing.

Author: Watches by Timepiece

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Rolex Yacht-Master vs Yacht-Master II: A Guide

vs. Yacht-Master II

Among Rolex watches, the “II” designation or second edition usually signals an evolution of the existing model. This isn’t the case with the Yacht-Master and Yacht-Master II.

While both were made for the sailing community as their name suggests, the two watches are actually very different – and perhaps their name is the only real connection they have.

Below, we’ll take a brief look at their history, and explain why the Yacht-Master and Yacht-Master II, are special in their own ways:

The and Yacht-Master II lines are two of the newest models from the Rolex portfolio.

There was much excitement when the Yacht-Master was launched in the early 90s, as it was the first new model to emerge from Rolex, since the Daytona’s launch in 1964.

– Rolex launches the Yacht-Master line. While it looks like it was inspired by the iconic , it was promoted as a luxurious, nautically-themed watch, as opposed to a tool watch.

Whereas, the Submariner was actually suited for diving, the Yacht-Master with a water resistance of only 100m, was best suited to the decks of yachts or lounges of yacht clubs. Regardless, the Yacht-Master had a successful debut and enjoyed a continuous production run.

from left: Rolex Yacht-Master 40mm Steel Platinum Blue Dial, Yellow Gold Mother of Pearl Diamond Sapphire Serti, and Steel Everose Gold Chocolate Dial Watches.

– Rolex continued to push the limits of luxury design with the Yacht-Master. They came up with a beautiful mother of pearl dial, as well as Rolesor designs that combined steel and gold.

Still, aside from the inherent 100m water resistance, there were no features on the Yacht-Master that were made especially for boating or regatta racing.

– Rolex introduces the Yacht-Master II, a professional regatta watch. Not only was it a departure from the Yacht-Master, but from Rolex as a whole.

It became the most complicated watch from the brand; and its bold colors and massive case really stood out from the rest of the portfolio.

from left: Rolex Yacht-Master II Stainless Steel 18K Rose Gold, White Gold Platinum, and 18K Yellow Gold Watches.

– the Yacht-Master was the first in the Professional Range to be offered in 3 sizes. It came in a men’s 40mm case, a midsize 35mm case, and a ladies’ 29mm case.

These would later be discontinued, leaving just the 40mm case and a 37mm case. In 2019, Rolex launched the 42mm model.

Meanwhile, the Yacht-Master II only comes in a massive 44mm case, which makes it the one of the largest watches of Rolex, apart from the Sky-Dweller and Deepsea.

– the Yacht-Master follows the design DNA of watches and one may describe it as a more luxurious looking Rolex Submariner.

The Yacht-Master II on the other hand, has a look that caters to its specialized functions.

Its bright blue, Cerachrom insert bezel has large 0-10 scale numbers and the Yacht-Master II name. On the dial is a smaller version of this countdown. Together, these work to allow the wearer to select a countdown interval of anywhere from one to ten minutes.

– The function of the Yacht-Master is pretty straightforward. With a traditional 3-hand display, 60-minute graduated bezel, and 100m water resistance, the Yacht-Master was really designed for those who want the ruggedly elegant aesthetic of watches, without the highly-specialized functions they usually have.

– It also makes a great daily-wearer, with its flatter case back that wears comfortably. It runs on the same movement as the latest Submariner, the proven and reliable Caliber 3135.

– The highly specialized Yacht-Master II was created as a professional regatta watch and can also be used as a chronograph.

– At the center of the regatta function is the Ring Command Bezel. Whereas, are usually used separately from the rest of the watch, the Ring Command Bezel works in conjunction with the movement.

– By using the Ring Command Bezel with the crown, the wearer can accurately sync the watch with the starting sequence of a yacht race.

– The Yacht-Master II was originally equipped with the Caliber 4160, which is based on the ’s Caliber 4130 movement. In 2013, Rolex introduced the Caliber 4161, built especially for the Rolex Yacht-Master II.

watches; while the Yacht-Master II has pushed the boundaries of what regatta watches can do.

In looking at the two watches, one cannot be better than the other. Both are excellent luxury watches that can suit your lifestyle. It all depends on whether you’re looking for an elegant sports watch or a top-notch tool for yachting.

SEE MORE OF THE WATCHES IN OUR VIDEO:

Rolex Yacht-Master vs Yacht-Master II: What's the Difference? | SwissWatchExpo [Rolex Watches]

The Rolex Yachtmaster: history, models, price

Rolex Yacht-Master Dix Millionieme Chronometre 9

Table of Contents

(NEWS) The Monaco Legend Group will auction a one-of-a-kind Rolex Yacht-Master

The rolex yacht-master dix millionieme chronometre.

The Yacht-Master auctioned on April 22 and 23 in Monaco is one of the most attractive one-of-a-kind contemporary Rolex watches and popped up in the early nineties to celebrate the ten-millionth Rolex watch equipped featuring the Chronometer Certificate.

Rolex Yacht-Master Dix Millionieme Chronometre 3

Interestingly, it is not a Daytona, a Submariner or a Day-Date but a Rolex Yacht-Master, thus adding additional flavour to our guide as no other model could ever do. May we call it the Rolex Yacht-Master Heiniger ? Yes, we might, but we need to move forward and provide further details.

The Heiniger family and Rolex

The model pictured here was manufactured under the Heiniger family’s leadership at Rolex; they managed the brand since Andre Heiniger was appointed President of Rolex in 1964 through his son Patrick’s appointment in 1992.

Rolex Yacht-Master Dix Millionieme Chronometre 1

This one-off platinum Yacht-Master is a prototype conceived to celebrate such a milestone and holds all the features found on first-class super-exclusive Rolex timepieces, and adopts baguette-cut sapphires and diamonds replacing the stock indexes plus the “DIX MILLIONIEME CHRONOMETRE” print on the dial, and the calibre 3135’s oscillating mass.

Rolex Yacht-Master Dix Millionieme Chronometre 7

The Heiniger family had, no doubt, a soft spot for platinum watches ; three unique platinum Daytona also appeared under their management and, according to industry’s rumours, the Daytona 116598 SACO, better known as the Leopard, was among their projects inspired, it seems, by Nina Stevens, Patrick Heiniger’s girlfriend back then.

Rolex Yacht-Master Dix Millionieme Chronometre 8

However, the Rolex Yacht-Master Heiniger is not a unicorn adorning a watch museum ; it will soon go under the hammer thanks to the Monaco Legends Group, the auction house co-managed by vintage watchmaking guru Davide Parmegiani, the 22 and 23 April.

Rolex Yacht-Master Dix Millionieme Chronometre 5

Given the relevance of the timepiece and its exclusivity, we expect fierce competition among collectors to make this piece theirs. What is the auction’s base price? The current estimation is between one and two million euros , quite a hefty price gap but something hard to predict for any watch expert.

The origins of the Rolex Yachtmaster

When did the Rolex Yachtmaster first appear? It’s hard to define. The name “Yacht Master” was filed for patent by Rolex in 1950 and, according to rumours and several non-confirmed historical sources, marked the brand’s willingness to introduce a new collection atop the top-selling and sporty Submariner; yet, it’s hard to describe the time lapse between patent and the first official commercial release. When we look at the current collection, we can also find inspiration in the most challenging endeavours across the oceans, up to professional yacht racing.

For instance, the former includes the expeditions set out by Sir Robin Knox-Johnston . He completed the first-ever solo circumnavigation of the globe, the Sunday Times Golden Globe Race of 1969, but we can’t forget what Sir Francis Chichester achieved, too; he circumnavigated the world from West to East in nine months and one day between 1966 and 1977 aboard the never-forgotten Gipsy Moth IV.

During his expedition, Chichester wore a Rolex Oyster Perpetual Chronometer, laying the foundations for what a Rolex watch represents when tested under extreme weather conditions on land, sea and air.

The first Yachtmaster

The first Rolex Yachtmaster dates back to 1992 ; it was marketed as reference 16628 and is the second most recent new Rolex watch after the more contemporary Rolex Sky-Dweller.

The collection’s timeline has undergone a bizarre evolution compared to similar Rolex watch collections.

Showcasing an 18-carat yellow gold case and bracelet paired with an unusual white dial , it housed the movement 3135 and is undeniably an evolution of the design codes seen on a Submariner, despite the journey to the first edition being unexpected and with plenty of testing prototypes.

Was the Yachtmaster pictured above the first attempt ever? It was from a commercial standpoint, not from a product perspective instead. The Yachtmaster moniker first surfaced between 1967 and 1969 when Rolex released a couple of prototypes based on the Daytona , whose case diameter had grown to 39.5 mm. The timepieces mentioned above belong to Italian collector John Goldberger and artist Eric Clapton.

The Rolex Yacht-Master 40 and 37 mm

Here is the Yacht Master’s “bread and butter”, undergoing several evolutions to end up with the model pictured here, as an example, in its gold and steel livery. With Jean-Frèdèric Dufour appointed CEO, Rolex has revisited the entire offering, which includes 40 and 37-mm large models, but has never hit the spot as the most wanted Professional Rolex among enthusiasts. The Daytona , Submariner, or GMT Master 2 are far more sought-after than any Yachtmaster, although the appreciation has steadily grown year after year .

Instead, the Yachtmaster’s technical development began with the 2007 Rolex Yacht-Master 2 116680 , whose sailing-professionals-oriented complication proves, alongside a Rolex Sky-Dweller, how much Rolex technicians are up to the task when asked to design a mechanically complicated watch.

Rolesor and Rolesium.

The current Yachtmaster collection with bracelets includes a completely revised range, comprising seven models : four 40 mm and three 37 mm models. They are available exclusively in steel and gold or platinum; some come in Rolesium (steel and platinum), others in Rolesor (steel and gold) such as, for instance, the Rolex Yachtmaster 40mm model in steel and Everose gold pictured here, also available with a black dial and as a 37mm size.

Let’s look closer at the Rolex Yacht-Master 40 in Steel and Everose Gold : it combines 904L steel and Everose pink gold, the Rolex-patented pink gold alloy adopting a specific silver and copper percentage to create an alloy capable of offering above-the-average shine, and wear resistance over time.

The Yachtmaster’s bezel

What makes the Yacht-Master unique is the bezel’s design in finish and functionality; it houses mirror-polished raised indexes and numerals on a sandblasted base and comes as a one-piece of gold or platinum. The polished to brushed finish appears on the Oyster bracelet and case sides, lugs included.

The Yachtmaster is widely considered a more luxurious take on the Submariner and a transition model between a sporty and classic Rolex watch with a gold case, as proved by the slightly curved lugs and the case side, making the Yachtmaster closer to four and five-digit Submariners as less professional than other timepieces belonging to the same product category, as exemplified by the specs sheet. The bezel is graduated but is bidirectional and water-resistant up to 100 metres .

Comparing current and first-ever Yachtmaster like the Rolex 69623 or 169622, for instance, lies in the options available: you’ll find the blue dial exclusively available on Rolesium models, while the Rolesor offers a chocolate brown or black dial , lovingly contrasting the case and bracelet’s tones, in our opinion.

The calibre 3235

Since 2019, the Rolex Yachtmaster has housed the latest-gen Rolex calibre 3235. Therefore, all models can run for at least 70 hours when fully wound.

The watch is certified as a Superlative Chronometer according to Rolex standards.

The calibre 2236

Instead, the 37 mm model adopts the smaller movement 2236, whose technical specifications differ slightly .

The main difference is that the Siloxy hairspring with a flat terminal curve , introduced by Rolex in 2014, replaced the Parachrom Blue one.

The Rolex Yachtmaster Oysterflex

At Baselworld 2015, Rolex released the first Yachtmaster with an Oysterflex bracelet , the brand’s patented rubber strap equipped with an inner nickel and titanium alloy, exclusively offered with a 40mm or 37mm gold case. Looking back at the first-ever YM, the Yachtmaster Oysterflex is perhaps the perfect successor to the 1992 Yacht Master.

rolex yacht master 40 oysterflex ref 126655

The first release appeared in Everose rose gold. Such a new generation best embodies the collection’s spirit ; it belongs to the Professional line of watches but is more luxurious, and gold highlights the Yacht Master’s “carrure”.

The new Yachtmaster Oysterflex also introduced the first-ever matte ceramic bezel ; it mimics a Rolesor or Rolesium’s, but the inlay is a single piece of matt black ceramic.

As with the two-tone models, the 40 and 37-mm case options adopt the 3235 and 2236 , respectively. The new model had a stunning success, and Rolex soon expanded the product range by offering a more generous 42 mm case size (however, the 40 mm model is unparalleled, in our opinion).

The 42mm collection is available in yellow or white gold , while the 40mm and 37mm models only come with an Everose rose gold case. We think Rolex will soon extend the Oysterflex collection by adopting new case materials.

rolex yacht master 42 titanio ben ainslie

In 2020, Ineos Britannia’s skipper Ben Ainslie was spotted wearing a titanium Yachtmaster 42 during a training session. After the Rolex Deepsea Challenge Titanium RLX ‘s unveil, this proto will likely make it to reality anytime soon.

rolex yacht master 42 ref 226659 occhio di falco

Before moving to the next chapter, remember that we discovered an odd model while surfing the Rolex official website: Rolex Yachtmaster 42 Hawkeye or Yachtmaster Falcon’s Eye , pictured above.

The Rolex Yachtmaster 2

Rolex is a manufacturer whose capabilities include rather mechanically-complicated watches ; it is something most people are unaware of. In the same price range as a Daytona, for example, you can opt for at least two complicated models: one is the regatta-ready Yachtmaster 2.

If an ordinary Yachtmaster is not as “professional” as its siblings, the Yachtmaster 2 is a full-fledged tool watch for professional skippers.

The complicated Rolex: from the Sky-Dweller to the Yacht-Master 2

The Rolex Yachtmaster 2 is bold and hefty; it’s a regatta timer and something you will, on paper, disregard when compared to a Rolex Sky-Dweller. The Rolex Yachtmaster 2 was conceived to provide professional skippers with a wrist instrument capable of accurately measuring the countdown to start a regatta.

The link between Rolex and yachting is long-established: the brand has associated its image with several sailing competitions like the Farr 40 or the Sidney–Hobart ever since. Pictured below is a map of the current partnerships.

The 5 to 10 minutes preceding the start of a regatta are paramount to any skipper and their crew; last-minute performance before the start is triggered can separate victory from defeat.

Most Regatta watches do not offer a dedicated function but make the most of ordinary chronograph functions. In contrast, the Rolex Yachtmaster II has a dedicated counter on the dial, coaxial to the bezel, equipped with a graduated scale from 0 to 10 minutes and an easy-to-read arrow hand.

The Countdown function: how to activate it.

The timer setting is straightforward and achieved by combining the bezel, crown and button at 4 o’clock in this sequence. The first operation is to rotate the bezel counter-clockwise to activate the small countdown counter adjustment system.

The bezel will automatically lock after a 90° rotation or when the “Yacht-Master II” writing appears on the right-hand side of the watch (the rotation axis of the crown ideally cuts the wording in two halves). Subsequently, please push the button located at 4 o’clock. Unscrew the crown until it locks in position 1 ; from that moment on, you can control the adjustment of the (jumping) 10-minute scale in one-minute intervals by rotating the crown clockwise.

After stopping the minute counter on the desired value, you need to rotate the bezel clockwise until it clicks into the position where the “Yacht-Master II” writing is again aligned at the bottom (-90 °, back to the original place).

At the end of this rotation, the two-minute scales, located on the bezel and the dial, respectively, will be fully aligned. By screwing back in the winding crown, you can restart the countdown (using the button at 2 o’clock); the red hand in the middle will start running, and the minutes’ countdown will begin .

During the countdown, you can stop the hand can by using the button at 2 o’clock or re-set the complete countdown with the button at 4 o’clock (Flyback). The countdown will start from the original position in the second case scenario. When the countdown has finished, the minute’s hand will also stop, while the second’s hand will continue to run indefinitely. The Rolex Yachtmaster II is a chronograph with a Flyback function .

The 2017 Rolex Yachtmaster II 116680 reference has replaced the previous reference by introducing a series of updates ; the new version is now equipped with Mercedes-styled hands, thus aligning itself with the family feeling of the other Oyster Perpetual divers, like the Submariner. Moreover, new applied indices located at 12 and 6′ clock have been launched (arrow-shaped and rectangular-shaped, respectively).

Ring Command and calibre 4161

The Ring Command bezel is integrated with the calibre and is an active part of the user experience. The level of complication and perfection this mechanism requires (firm clicks and no play) is more challenging than any other Rolex timepiece, making this watch extremely attractive.

At the same time, as per the usual Rolex tradition, the complication is concealed through a simplified aesthetic , although the dial is still more complex and crowded than those standards that Rolex has made us accustomed to, and this is one of the reasons why a Rolex Yachtmaster II is rarely a first choice when it comes to selecting a timepiece.

Rolex Yachtmaster Prices

The price list starts with the Yacht-Master 37 mm at 14,450 Euros and grows to the 43,800 Euros needed for a Yacht-Master 2 model in yellow gold . For instance, a more exclusive price list is requested, as with the reference 126655. The listed price range here is updated to February 2023; if you’re looking for a more comprehensive overview, please head to our dedicated article; there, you’ll find a price list and evolution since 2021 regarding the most coveted professional Rolex watches.

(Photo credit: Horbiter®)

Editorial team @Horbiter®

Giovanni Di Biase

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.css-120orm1{font-weight:700;font-size:clamp(1.875rem, 1.25rem + 1.5625vw, 3.125rem);line-height:1.2;margin-bottom:1rem;line-height:1.1;} Yacht-Master 42 .css-18uwo57{font-size:clamp(1.125rem, 1.0625rem + 0.1563vw, 1.25rem);line-height:1.6;font-weight:300;line-height:1.2;text-wrap:balance;}.css-18uwo57 span{display:block;} Oyster, 42 mm, white gold Reference 226659

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Staying on course

The Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42 in 18 kt white gold with a black dial and an Oysterflex bracelet.

The oysterflex bracelet, highly resistant and durable.

The Yacht-Master’s new Oysterflex bracelet, developed by Rolex and patented, offers a sporty alternative to metal bracelets. The bracelet attaches to the watch case and the Oysterlock safety clasp by a flexible titanium and nickel alloy metal blade.

The blade is overmoulded with high-performance black elastomer which is particularly resistant to environmental effects, very durable and perfectly inert for the wearer of the watch. For enhanced comfort, the inside of the Oysterflex bracelet is equipped with a patented longitudinal cushion system that stabilizes the watch on the wrist and fitted with an 18 kt white gold Oysterlock safety clasp. It also features the Rolex Glidelock extension system, designed by the brand and patented. This inventive toothed mechanism, integrated beneath the clasp, allows fine adjustment of the bracelet length by some 15 mm in increments of approximately 2.5 mm, without the use of tools.

18 kt white gold

Commitment to excellence

By operating its own exclusive foundry, Rolex has the unrivalled ability to cast the highest quality 18 kt gold alloys. According to the proportion of silver, copper, platinum or palladium added, different types of 18 kt gold are obtained: yellow, pink or white.

They are made with only the purest metals and meticulously inspected in an in-house laboratory with state-of-the-art equipment, before the gold is formed and shaped with the same painstaking attention to quality. Rolex's commitment to excellence begins at the source.

Bidirectional Rotatable Bezel

Timing the distance.

The Yacht-Master’s bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel is made entirely from precious metals or fitted with a Cerachrom insert in high-tech ceramic. The raised polished numerals and graduations stand out clearly against a matt, sand-blasted background.

This functional bezel – which allows the wearer to calculate, for example, the sailing time between two buoys – is also a key component in the model’s distinctive visual identity.

Exceptional legibility

Like all Rolex Professional watches, the Yacht-Master 42 offers exceptional legibility in all circumstances, and especially in the dark, thanks to its Chromalight display.

The broad hands and hour markers in simple shapes – triangles, circles, rectangles – are filled with a luminescent material emitting a long-lasting glow.

More Yacht-Master technical details

Reference 226659

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Oyster, 42 mm, white gold

Oyster architecture

Monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown

Bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel with matt black Cerachrom insert in ceramic, polished raised numerals and graduations

Winding crown

Screw-down, Triplock triple waterproofness system

Scratch-resistant sapphire, Cyclops lens over the date

Water resistance

Waterproof to 100 metres / 330 feet

Perpetual, mechanical, self-winding

3235, Manufacture Rolex

-2/+2 sec/day, after casing

Centre hour, minute and seconds hands. Instantaneous date with rapid setting. Stop-seconds for precise time setting

Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring. High-performance Paraflex shock absorbers

Bidirectional self-winding via Perpetual rotor

Power reserve

Approximately 70 hours

Flexible metal blades overmoulded with high-performance elastomer

Folding Oysterlock safety clasp with Rolex Glidelock extension system

Highly legible Chromalight display with long-lasting blue luminescence

Certification

Superlative Chronometer (COSC + Rolex certification after casing)

Learn how to set the time and other functions of your Rolex watch by consulting our user guides.

Yacht-Master 42

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Only official Rolex jewelers are allowed to sell and maintain a Rolex watch. With the necessary skills, technical know-how and special equipment, they guarantee the authenticity of each and every part of your Rolex and help you make the choice that will last a lifetime.

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COMMENTS

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