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Strut repair
Discussion in ' Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building ' started by Aaron Darby , Feb 2, 2021 .
Aaron Darby Junior Member
New here, did a little searching but didn’t find anything on how to repair a leaking strut. I’m helping a friend on his 64’ Harkers Islans Kingfisher. The STBD strut leaks, so we pulled her out of the water and I’ve gone to work. Of the 6 bolts that hold the strut on to the hull one is spun out and two look like they are leaking water since they are corroded even though they are stainless. I’ve removed the stainless backing plate and of course the spun bolt looks like it may have been leaking. The strut has been faired on the hull and when I ground out material to access the three bolts heads that I assume are potential leaks I noticed that the fairing compound didn’t stick to the strut, there is a void between the strut and fairing compound and water can reach the bolt heads, probably all of them. I’ve done a little research and assume the strut was bedded to the hull so my plan is to grind out all the faring material starting at the strut and working towards the hull until I can verify good solid contact. I’ll remove all the bolts, clean them or get new ones and install (backing plate as well) with plenty of 5200. I’ve done some epoxy work and feel confident in my skills but never have worked with a brass strut or hardware and epoxy before. Is a good thorough cleaning with a coat of epoxy and then fairing compound all I need or do I need to etch it, maybe prime it first. Any help and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
bajansailor Marine Surveyor
Welcome to the Forum Aaron. Is your friend's boat like a bigger version of this 50' Harkers Island sportsfisherman? Harkers Island Sportfish Charter Yacht for Sale, | Viva Boats https://www.vivaboats.com/-harkers-island-sportfish-charter-yacht/Power-boats/14858 Is there still any bedding compound between the strut baseplate and the hull? Your proposal sounds reasonable - although the strut will be what everybody knows as bronze, rather than brass (but anybody pedantic might say it is a type of brass). Would it be possible / feasible to undo all the bolts, and slide the strut aft on the shaft (assuming that the shaft is still installed?)? That would make it easier perhaps to apply new bedding compound (5200?) between the base and the hull? I presume that this is the larger main strut, rather than a smaller intermediate strut? Do you have any photos of the strut? And a couple of photos of the boat herself would be nice as well - I presume that she has a legendary flared Carolina bow?
gonzo Senior Member
Stainless bolts below the waterline is a no-no. You should install either bronze or monel. What you are seeing is the typical crevice corrosion in stainless. 316 passivated stainless is an option, but the price is probably not worth it. Also, any scratch or even the friction from the nut may remove the passivated layer.
Here is a link to pictures I’ve taken. iCloud Photo Sharing https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0cG4VTwGGlZOu9 I believe there is still bedding compound, that the strut is secure. Everything appears to be secure, just leaks a little.
Seems all I have are pictures of all the broken parts. Ill get a picture of her up. Probably start a thread dedicated to the boat, The Grace. If I do go with Bronze or Monel bolts do I need to change the back plate that is currently stainless steel?
Yes please re a photo or two of the boat as well - and a thread on here all about The Grace would be even better! You have a couple of S/S bolts there that are textbook corrosion examples - very impressive! It would definitely be a good idea to change the bolts (and nuts and washers) for bronze or monel (if you can find monel). If your S/S backing plates are still in good condition, you should be able to keep them - how thick are they? Re how there are two holes in the longitudinal stringer for accessing the nuts on the bolts - this is rather poor design. Does the top flange of each strut have six bolts in total, aligned 3 transversely and two longitudinally? I think that I would be inclined to grind away all the fairing around the top flanges of the struts, and live with the slight amount of extra resistance - this would make it much easier to re-bed the flanges, and easier for future routine inspections.
6 bolts total, 3 on each side of the strut The backing plate is 1/2 stainless and with exception of a little surface rust seems in good condition. I’m trying to source Monel or bronze bolts, they are 1/2-14 5” long pan head. I was wondering about the forces and load the bolts have to carry. Guessing it isn’t much, the shaft forces are rotational and any movement would have to move the engine and transmission. Being worried that a bronze bolt would fail is probably unfounded?
Re 5" x 1/2" bronze bolts, I tried Classic Marine in the UK, but they only have 4" x 1/2" hex-head bolts - https://shop.classicmarine.co.uk/fa...rs/bronze-bolts-nuts-washers-12-inch-unc.html Similarly McMaster Carr in the USA - McMaster-Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/bronze-machine-screws/bronze-hex-head-screws/ Jamestown Distributors have 6" x 1/2" csk hd machine screws on their website at $24 each - but no 5", and they are currently out stock of the 6" screws. It would be worthwhile contacting them though? Jamestown Distributors https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/product/product-detail/1276
I’ve got new silicone bronze bolts, washers, and nuts. Other then 5200 and using TedGel should I be concerned about the stainless steel plate and bronze where they meet? Perhaps a thin fiber washer between the two or a maybe a wooden block?
Where did you source the bolts from please? I wouldn't worry too much about the connection between the stainless steel and bronze, especially so if you use Tef Gel https://www.fisheriessupply.com/ultra-safety-systems-ultra-tef-gel-thread-anti-seize-lubricant or Duralac https://www.fisheriessupply.com/saddington-consultants-plus-duralac-anti-corrosion-jointing-compound on the bolts, along with 5200 for bedding.
I’ve exposed the base of the strut and as always it looks like more work, exposed a void and not sure how bad it is yet. Had to stop and dump dust out of my eyes. Headed to pick up a full face respirator, this half mask and goggles ain’t cutting it.
Bolts came from Paxton, local supply here in Virginia. I’m lucky to have a friend with an account. 1/2”x 5” bronze strut bolts for $26.90 each Paxton Company - Distributors of Marine Safety Equipment https://www.paxtonco.com/
Figured out how to add pics to the post. After a few hours of chasing voided I’ve exposed a few problems. The strut appears properly bedded but water has been past the strut and into voids between the structural hull and the fairing materials. I believe they used wood and plywood so they didn’t have to apply 2” of fairing compound and this wood looks to have been exposed to saltwater.
Impressive photos Aaron - they look like works of modern art! Except that the black / mouldy looking areas do look rather ominous. I think it is time to make a decision to do a 'proper' job - and that would probably involves removing the propellers, withdrawing the shafts (can you do this with the rudders in place?) and completely removing the struts. Clean up both areas (get rid of that old wood and other bedding materials) and then use proper materials (not wood!) as backing pads under the strut bases. I think that you ideally want to use something like Chockfast (or similar) to form the backing pads - Chockfast Products | High-performance epoxy grouting https://itwperformancepolymers.com/products/chockfast Others on here will have more experience than me with this product (I have none) and can advise you better. But it might be feasible to re-assemble each strut with the securing bolts, leaving a gap between the base and the hull, such that you still have pretty good alignment of the cutless bearing in the strut with the engine shaft line. Can you get hold of a laser to help line it up? Otherwise use a tight string - but a laser would be easier. If you can build a dam around three sides of the strut base, then it might be possible to pour liquid resin in to the aperture (between base and hull) from the 'up-hill' side to form the new backing / bedding pads? If this is not feasible, then it might be possible to just use say 3 bolts for securing each strut base (in a triangulated formation), and then pouring resin in through the other 3 bolt holes? This is just a wild suggestion, and I would welcome constructive criticism re improving this method. Be aware that you would still have to carefully re-align the engines at the end, as the struts will not be in the same positions as they were before (and they might not have been perfectly aligned before you started this repair anyway).
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I’ve heard of Chokfast but at this point I think the strut and bedding compound are sound. I will investigate further, the bedding compound appears to be discolored but solid and undamaged. I will be sure to grind it just a little to ensure it hasn't been compromised. The water intrusion has caused damage to the fairing materials, a combination of plywood and other wood pieces surrounding the strut (blue on my drawing). It also looks like it has run between the hull and the fairing material, for how far I am not sure. I like the idea of a proper job, start removing fairing materials until I run out of damage and replace it all. This is my delima, like a thread on a sweater I feel like when I start removing the fairing materials I may end up in the bow without a sweater. It sounds like the plan is to dry it out like you describe with the chine work, clean it up a bit more and liberally inject epoxy mixed with Acetone (ill double check that, something that helps the epoxy wick into the wood?). After a few solid coats of epoxy, re-fair and we get to keep the sweater. It kills me because I will never know how far the damage went.
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Beneteau First 42 Prop strut repair
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- P BRACKET REPLACEMENT.pdf 323.7 KB Views: 140
I get your point. If it moves, something would seem to have rounded out inside. I'm scratching my head on how they'll get the old strut out, without essentially removing the interior housing anyway. I know there are after market manufacturers of p-struts, but I've never need to use one (hoping it stays that way). Your boat must be going on 40 years old, as I don't think they've been made, since the early 80s. There may be some logic that says, if it hasn't dezincified yet........? Hard to say.
A member here (eherilhy) replaced his strut in his ODay 35 within the last year. He had a custom strut made up for him. The ODay strut has a palm so installation is different. A search here should turn up that thread. Also a number of years ago a member (now inactive) replaced the strut in his Cal 33. Also had one made up for him by the original foundry. That strut doesn't have a palm so is installed like yours. Since Beneteau is still in business unlike ODay and Cal, they may be able to tell you where to get a new strut. Also Buck Algonquin sells off the shelf struts like that with no palm. If the strut is still in good shape and just needs to be reattached, I see no reason why that can't be done without removing the shaft and rudder.
Thanks for your reply Minnewaska. I believe the strut is locked in place vertically by a single through bolt that is captured by the sides of the housing. With the top of the housing cut away the bolt could be cut flush with the strut allowing the strut to be slid down and out of the hull. I’ll sand down the lower portion of the strut to bright metal to try to assess the state of dezincification.
SvNovia said: With the top of the housing cut away the bolt could be cut flush with the strut allowing the strut to be slid down and out of the hull. Click to expand...
Thanks for your reply JimsCAL. Have reached out to Beneteau for information on the repair and a source for the strut and am awaiting a reply. I was initially considering the possibility of simply re-aligning the strut and refilling the strut housing cavity with epoxy but just as a temporary measure.
Yes, that would be a temporary fix. I am suggesting if the existing strut is solid, you reinstall it following the procedure you posted from Bene. That's how you would put a new one in. That would not be a temporary fix.
I’m assuming the bolt is just long enough to get a nut fully threaded. I would dig the head and nut ends out of the glass/epoxy build up after the strut was removed. To reinstall I would have to cut down the housing to the height of the strut through hole.
Oh! Gotcha. Interesting point JimsCAL. If the plan from the start is to completely redo the glass housing as per the instructions from Beneteau, it may be possible to remove the entire housing with the strut in place, assuming a visual inspection of the strut is sufficient to assess its condition. Then follow the full procedure to align it and rebuild the housing with the shaft in place saving the time it would take to remove the steering mechanism and rudder. I hadn’t considered that. I’ll be at the yard tomorrow to sand and clean the exposed portion of the strut and I’ll try to determine the added difficulty of removing the housing and prepping the inner hull using that method. Thanks for the suggestion JimsCAL.
I don’t think the hours quoted are out of line. I would think if there is any water migration the plywood is suspect. I like the idea on checking the zinc penetration on the piece. Wise words. Maybe Beneteau could find one on the parts shelf in Carolina or France. They probably have 10 hours of predictable fudge. Happy to hear Beneteau is helping.
Thanks for your reply Den. The old strut had suffered enough dezincification to warrant replacement. Beneteau did respond (through a local dealership) but the answer was no, they didn’t have any replacement. Rather than modifying the hull to accommodate a different style strut I decided to cast a new part using the old one as a mold. I haven’t checked the state of the ply side braces yet. But I’ll be checking that as the refit proceeds. So far just enough of the glass support structure was removed to facilitate removal of the old strut.
Well I hope everything works out brand new used. I hope you’re taking photos for future boaters to make the tough decisions. Do you have any idea how this wear showed up. Was the prop hit at full speed. Could a damaged prop or bent shaft cause this?
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Bent Shaft and Strut – Too Bent to Repair?
Straight Line Marine is a machine shop dedicated to running gear and the art of repairing bent shafts and struts. When looking at bent shafts we often get the question – is it too bent to fix? The answer is simple – if it is not cracked then it can be straightened. A cracked shaft is not repairable (focusing here on stainless steel marine shafts) and must be replaced. A bent shaft can be repaired. We use a cold, hydraulic press process that does not alter the metallurgy of the shaft. It takes a lot of practice and time to straighten a shaft. Some shafts have metal memory and need to be checked hours or a day later. If the shaft is bent badly enough (over 1/2″) we will run a red dye crack test when the straightening is complete. Unlike this experience straightening bronze struts , we have not had a shaft crack during the straightening process.
It is hard to imagine a 4″ shaft bending almost 1.5″ at the prop taper and even more difficult to see in a picture. So here is a quick video showing one of our extreme projects. This shaft was out of a 112′ Westport that ran hard aground.
The bent shaft was not the only damage – the V-Strut legs were “waffled” as it was pushed straight up towards the vessel’s bottom. Straightening both legs took quite a bit of enginuity with a series of hydraulic presses. We did save the strut and reinstalled it with an optical scope alignment .
Bent strut from a 112' Westport
from → Straight Line Marine
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If you’re like most sailors, the engine on your sailboat often gets used for much more than just coming in and out of the harbor. When the wind is gone they get used for hours on end to take us to our favorite places!
Have you ever noticed a clunking or hammering sound while motoring? If so it’s possible your prop shaft strut bearing might be worn out. Note that sometimes these bearings are referred to as a Cutless bearing, which is correct. The tradename “Cutless” is a registered trademark owned by Duramax Marine, however.
So what does a prop shaft strut bearing do exactly? The prop shaft passes through the strut but is supported by a bearing. It’s basically a brass sleeve with a hard rubber insert that’s ribbed. The ribs keep the prop shaft inline and also allow water to flow through, which lubricates the bearing. As time goes by the prop shaft can wear the rubber ribs down, which means the prop shaft will no longer fit tight in the bearing and may create a clunking noise.
You can easily check the bearing when the boat is out of the water by pushing on the shaft side to side or up and down. If it moves at all, you need a new bearing.
Replacing the bearing is relatively straightforward, or at least it should be? Simply loosen the set screws on the strut and slide the bearing the bearing out. Seems simple enough doesn’t it? Well, these bearings are pressed in place, so they won’t’ just slide out on their own after removing the set screws. The traditional way of removing the bearing requires pulling the prop shaft out, followed by pulling the bearing out with a gear puller. I’ve seen people try to hammer the bearing out. Word of advice, DON’T DO IT! You could loosen the strut in the hull, causing more problems, including water leaks. Sometimes the rudder is very close to the shaft and has to be removed as well.
Removing the bearing shouldn’t have to be so much work, so we came up with an easier way that uses a jig to push the bearing out with the prop shaft in place. . The only additional thing that needs to be removed is the prop itself. The idea is to make a sleeve out of 1″ pipe that fits over the prop shaft to push the bearing out. I used a 4” section of pipe that is small enough to slide through the strut. In order to get it on the prop shaft, I had to split the pipe. I split it by using a hacksaw, but finding a friend with a power hacksaw would be worth your time.
In addition to the split pipe, we made our own jig, which is essentially a portable puller/pusher that is made up of bars, rod, bolts, nuts and washers from the hardware store. To make the jig start by cutting four 7-1/2” lengths from 1/4 x 1-1/2” steel bar stock. Layout and drill the 7/16” holes as dimensioned on the Pressure Bar drawing. Cut two 18” lengths of 1/2” threaded rod, and then assemble as shown in the video.
The advantage of the jig is that not only does it push the old bearing out but also works as a tool to push the new bearing in. You’ll notice that the jig has springs between the steel bars at the back. These are there to keep the bar spacing correct. When you push the bearing out you’ll want enough space between those bars so the bearing can pass through. When you install the new bearing you’ll want less space between those bars so they can make contact with the end of the bearing. Also, note that when you install the new bearing you’ll want to pay careful attention that the bearing stays aligned with the hole in the strut.
Once the new bearing is in place you can lock it in place with the set screws. Reinstall the prop and you are ready for some happy motoring!
- How a prop shaft bearing works
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This removal jig made it super easy to replace the strut bearing on the our boat. All of the supplies are available at your local home center or hardware store.
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inboard strut alignment
- Thread starter salty87
- Start date Oct 2, 2008
- Oct 2, 2008
23' ski boat i've just finished new stringers and deck. engine has been rebuilt by reputable shop. she's all back together. alignment is ugly though. the shaft almost hits the shaft log to 1 side with the couplers disconnected. i don't think there's enough room on the mounting trunnions to move the engine over that far. even if i did, the shaft is too close to the hull. when aligning the shaft, how much are you allowed to move it by hand? it has to be lifted a bit to correct for sagging. i've been using a screwdriver to shim it into place. pulling to the side lines it up in the log better and gets me real close to tolerances. just to see, i fired her up and after soaking the cutlass bearing i put her in gear. not good enough to even try on the water. does this mean the strut is out of alignment?
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Re: inboard strut alignment Struts can be bent, and straightened. I've done a couple this year that had bent shafts and struts. Check both or you NEVER will get the alignment right. Most prop shops can check and repair struts, shafts are replaced if bent, along with the coupler on the tranny end of the shaft. I usually dry fit the strut and shaft and see that they center in the packing gland, and centered in the strut bearing. Make sure the rubber on the bearing is equal all around on both ends of the bearing. It's time consuming, but it sure makes a difference in how they run.
- Oct 3, 2008
Re: inboard strut alignment don, have you ever straightened one while still attached to the hull?...with the old shaft still in the strut? yuk yuk...the coupler and shaft don't want to cooperate, they're locked together. prop shop said no problem, just drop the strut and swing it by. i guess if i did that i might be able to leave the coupler/shaft alone. nah, rudder will probably mess that up. ...not looking forward to taking the strut off
the coupler and shaft don't want to cooperate, they're locked together. Click to expand...
- Oct 4, 2008
Don S said: You can also pull the engine and get it out of the way. Ususally the fastest way to do the job. Forget even trying to straighten the strut with the shaft in it. You have to overbend them to allow for spring back, and you probably still need to replace the cutlass bearing anyway. Click to expand...
- Oct 5, 2008
Re: inboard strut alignment got the strut off, cutlass bearings are bad. coupler is still seized to the shaft, still in the boat. i'd like to take them all to the prop shop but that's not looking too possible. i'm going to call the prop shop in the morning and see if they can help with the coupler...they made the friggin' thing. maybe they can cut it off and give me a deal on a new one. or it stays and i hope it's ok.
Re: inboard strut alignment IF that strut is bent, you can bet money the shaft is too.
Don S said: just cut the end of the shaft off at the coupler. Click to expand...
what would a reasonable charge be?? Click to expand...
what would cut it?? 1" shaft Click to expand...
- Oct 6, 2008
Re: inboard strut alignment Looks bent and twisted a little to me.
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Strut Installation Methods & Typical Modes of Failure. 01/29/20. Catalina employed different strut designs and mounting methods over the years. This article describes those designs and methods to aid in the understanding and repair of your boat. Early Catalina 27 and Catalina 30 struts were installed from inside the boat and glassed into place.
We participate in multiple affiliate programs including Amazon Affiliates. This means that if you click on and purchase from our links, we will get a small p...
My three choices for the repair are; 1) buy a new "close fitting" strut from Bock Algonguin, $ 600.+. 2) cut existing strut out and weld/braze on a flange (bronze) 3) fab a new strut out of stainless. I have access to a full on machine shop and can do most of the work myself, zero boat $. All three options involve cutting the existing strut out ...
Boat Info. Downloads Weekly Quiz Topic FAQ 10000boatnames.com. Classifieds. Sell Your Boat Used Gear ... Strut Repair. Thread starter Roger Long; Start date Aug 2, 2012; Forums. Featured Contributors. Roger Long - Cruising on Strider Status Not open for further replies. Roger Long. Nov 22, 2008 3,562 ... The strut is solidly mounted in these ...
14. Catalina 30 San Diego. Jun 28, 2022. #1. Just finished a pre-purchase survey for a 1986 Catalina 30 and the survey found the strut to be loose. He applied push and pull pressure on it and there was substantial movement and a popping noice. The fiberglass hull around the strut was cracked and soft meaning there was some water damage.
Sep 20, 2014. #2. Kito: The strut on my 1980 Cherubini Hunter 36 needed replacement this past summer when it cracked while the yard tried to press out the cutlass bearing. I was 75% expecting this outcome because before the project, I had previously noted that the bronze strut had "gone pink" in several spots.
New here, did a little searching but didn't find anything on how to repair a leaking strut. I'm helping a friend on his 64' Harkers Islans Kingfisher. The STBD strut leaks, so we pulled her out of the water and I've gone to work. Of the 6 bolts that hold the strut on to the hull one is spun out and two look like they are leaking water ...
Beneteau First 42 Prop strut repair. The strut has vertical movement/play of about 3/8". The boat yard has estimated 56 hours labor with much of the hours involved in the job devoted to removing/reinstalling the steering, rudder and prop shaft. Removal of the strut itself will involve cutting off the top of the fiberglass strut housing, and ...
The strut bolts are drilled out to remove the filler material and the bolts are put back in place with 5200. Aligning a strut is usually a once in a boat-life project unless a catastrophic grounding occurs. A properly aligned strut will free-up an engine to provide a smooth ride for comfort and higher speed, lower fuel consumption for performance.
A bent shaft can be repaired. We use a cold, hydraulic press process that does not alter the metallurgy of the shaft. It takes a lot of practice and time to straighten a shaft. Some shafts have metal memory and need to be checked hours or a day later. If the shaft is bent badly enough (over 1/2″) we will run a red dye crack test when the ...
About Our Tools. Strut Pro ® Cutless Bearing Replacement Tools are built in the USA. Currently, there are over 3,000 marine repair yards around the world now using Strut Pro ® Bearing Replacement Tools. Professionals and do-it-yourself boat owners widely accept our products as the standard in affordable strut-bearing replacement.
Layout and drill the 7/16" holes as dimensioned on the Pressure Bar drawing. Cut two 18" lengths of 1/2" threaded rod, and then assemble as shown in the video. The advantage of the jig is that not only does it push the old bearing out but also works as a tool to push the new bearing in. You'll notice that the jig has springs between the ...
Boat: 2005 23 LSV. 1. Author. Posted July 3, 2008. Here's the tally: at Malibu dealer, new rudder is $549 and strut is $216. here in the fine city of Houston, "Bauman's Props", a well-known machine shop that builds and reconditions props, quoted $60 each to straighten strut and rudder, provided they are not too bent.
I removed the strut on my 1980 H27 when I replaced the cutlass bearing. Get new bearings at West Marine or other chandlery. On my H27, you can unscrew the plywood panel at the quarter berth to get to the strut nuts. I found that to align the strut after removal is the hard part. I had to shim under the strut with washers to get it to align right.
62,321. Oct 2, 2008. #2. Re: inboard strut alignment. Struts can be bent, and straightened. I've done a couple this year that had bent shafts and struts. Check both or you NEVER will get the alignment right. Most prop shops can check and repair struts, shafts are replaced if bent, along with the coupler on the tranny end of the shaft.
Posts: 8. Beneteau First 42 propeller strut repair. The strut has vertical movement/play of about 3/8". The boat yard has estimated 56 hours labor with much of the hours involved in the job devoted to removing/reinstalling the steering, rudder and prop shaft. Removal of the strut itself will involve cutting off the top of the fiberglass strut ...
Mar 22, 2011. #4. As I'm sure you know, you must align the engine and shaft with the boat in the water. The strut and cutless bearing should be as close in alignment as you can get with the boat on the hard, which will give the proper engine alignment when the boat is back in the water. So your short answer is align strut and shaft, then align ...
STRUT PRO Repair Yard Kits. If you are a marine repair facility you will greatly benefit from one of Strut Pro's repair yard kits. These kits include all components needed to replace the most commonly used bearings.Available in the following sizes: Sailboat / small yacht (for all bearing sizes up through 2" o.d.), standard complete (up through 3" o.d.), expanded standard complete (up through 3 ...
Apr 22, 2011. 887. Hunter 27 Pecan Grove, Oriental, NC. Apr 26, 2021. #7. My 84 H27 prop strut is a Buck Algonquin. It is mounted with four 1/4" flat head bolts. There is a ss backing plate for each set of 2 bolts. I don't think that Hunter would have mounted your strut with only 2 bolts.
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